This guy is great no case splitters no torque wrenchs. Knows how to get the job done and it works. Wish there was more people like you out there that knows you dont need all those fancy tools to get the job done rite.
Thanks!. When I first started this channel I would often get comments saying "thats not the right tool for that". Them comments have finally kinda faded away. I even said in one video "I make these videos for the home gamer, if you have all the special tools you probably do this for a living and I dont even know why your watching this video" lol. Thanks for the kinds words!👍
You can tell this isn't your first rodeo, you have allot of skill and abilities . I enjoy watching your video's as you are meticulous with every bike, unlike some u-tubers that have no talent and just shoot the parts cannon at it. Keep up the fine video's 🙂 👍
Another good video 👌🏽 sad to see but also cool to see at the same time … never seen a valve snap and get stuck .. can’t wait for part 2 and hopefully you get to rip and we get to see! 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
learned some new tips. I do the same with the fuel tank and bunjee cord it to the rear fender. Got me curious to what the ticking sounds like now before the bike locks up.
Nice! its a light ticking, sounds kinda like a light lifter tap on a car motor. Thats if its starting to mash down the tip of the valve. But when you check your valves as long as all the valves are within spec or slightly tighter than spec your good. If you find a valve that the valve clearance has increased, thats when you should dig deeper to find out. Its safe and normal for the clearance to tighten up through time, but its not safe and normal if the clearance becomes greater through time.
New sub but loving your channel! Extremely informative. I really like Yamahas but haven’t owned any (yet). Maybe that’ll have to change haha. I’ve been learning a ton from your videos as well as 2vintage and Kincaide pavich. All different style but super helpful
Funny.... I've NEVER had a valve drop or had to even check valves on my YZ250X...LMAO. BTW what the heck is in the background that sounds like you're dropping bolts on the floor??? Great video
@UpAllNight91 At first I thought you were dropping bolts, but I know your not that clumsy being a respected mechanic for so long. Keep the videos coming
Hello. 50 to 60 hours is good for a 250F. Can shorten that up to 30 to 40 hours if the rider is really really fast. And extend to around 75 hours for a slower rider.
Thanks and Hello! I run my air compressor at 9 bar. It does allow me to turn it up to around 10.5 bar if needed but does good at 9 with less wear and tear.
@@UpAllNight91 ok thanks. its time for a full motor rebuild on my yz 250F i will wait for part 2 comming up. your videos helpt me alot specily the yfz 450R quad rebuild video you did. you are really a life saver brother 🙌🏻👏🏻
Most likely it was lack of value maintenance. It’s a small clearance between TDC and valve. Definitely would have measured value lash first. I’d bet they are all off. The head is still good, replacing valve seats. The final brake was by turning by hand. Good video though. Go ahead and put stage 2 hot cams and chain. There probably same cost. I’d say under $800 and have pretty good upgrades. Do a little bit of porting and polishing on the exhaust side. I mean very minor and you’ll be amazed at the difference don’t take material out just polish. I’ve have worked on Yamaha bikes since I was 13 I’m 50 now. lol. I hope my commute isn’t taken as trying to cut your video or you down. JOJOBIGS
Hello. The valves wear in two different places that changes valve clearance. The valve seating area and the valve tip. Wear in either of them two places will cause the valve to sit higher up in the head(further from the piston), not lower. So I dont think valve clearance or lack of valve adjustments was the cause. Yamaha does not sell valve seats alone for these bikes. There may be aftermarket options but at that point we would be at the mercy of the machinist and how quality his work is. The owner is working towards lorettas and doesn't want to take any chances and miss out on his chance, so a new OEM is the safest option as far as quality control. The turning by hand, well he landed in the air with the motor already locked up and then once back on the ground he hit the starter button and said it did spin over but didnt sound good. So I'm thinking the landing broke anything that was binded up in the motor. Turning by hand is very easy and gentle and as long as you dont go forcing anything usually no further damage is done. I agree on the performance upgrades but the owner is racing in the stock class so we are kinda stuck keeping it stock for the time being. I do plan to slip in as much blue printing and crank truing and stuff I can that will fly under the radar if hes protested and has his motor torn open but I have to keep it pretty stock otherwise. And no worries, I do appreciate the comment and thanks for watching too. It looks like all the parts arrived today so hopefully I will have her going next week and the part 2 uploaded. Hope you have a great weekend!
Oh also. I did later notice the motor has a pro X piston in it and not a OEM piston. He bought this from a pro race team thats based out of Florida. He bought the bike with 22 hours on it and was told it was a bone stock bike used as a practice bike. But now that we see it has a cheaper piston in it as well as a little more cylinder wear than I would expect to see at 52 hours. I question if the team took any stock used head and cylinder off the shelf and put it on the bike to sell it. Removing the modified head that was on it. And if that was the case we may never know how many hours was on that head and valves. I have seen valves drop heads off them when used over 200 hours at a race level. This is one reason valves should be replaced at 200 hours at a race pace level. But who knows how many hours may have been on this head.
It would be really hard to honestly. What bent this rod is the pressure was only on one side of the piston. I have seen hydrolocked motors bend rods but I think it would be hard to do by hand. Just a guess though, never tried myself lol
Well I only recently heard the buzz on these timing chains but I have yet to see a problem with them myself. I have seen these chains go over 100 hours with no problems, although I wouldnt suggest that. For a average rider I would say 50 hours for every top end and timing chain in fine. If the rider is really fast and works the motor really hard then shorten it to 30 or 40 hours or so. Stay tuned to this comment section, if there truly have been timing chain issues I'm sure someone will chime in. I just havent seen any myself.
@@barneyprince9257 that's kinda what I speculated when I heard chains breaking. The kibble white valves are heavier than the stock titanium valves and require heavier stronger valves springs which puts more strain on the timing chain for sure
I'm working on a top end in my 21 yz250fx. 113hrs on the bike and this is my first top end. I do a lot of slow trail riding with the gf, and the carbon build up was my biggest issue. Anyway, I'd agree with doing a top end way before this despite mine going this long. It's all about how hard the bike is ridden.
@@Dan_416 For sure, it does really depend how hard the bike is riden. I know a women who has like 250 hours on her YZ250f and it made it with the stock piston and timing chain. Although she is doing a top end on it as we speak, but it made it safely.
My yz 250F have worn cam caps. I did buy another set of cam caps from a another dude that has the same bike because is not possible to buy only cam caps from Yamaha. Will this work? the EAN number on the caps match expect the exhaust cam cap. I heard that the cam caps most be installed with the original cylinder head that came from the factory because is bored diameter match
Hello. Yes, its always recommended to use the cam caps that come with the head. However machining is so accurate these days and each head is cut nearly identical that if a different cam cap is needed and its not feasible to change out the whole head then it can be worth a try to use a different set of cam caps. I would install the cams in the head with the new cam caps and check that they spin freely and dont have any play. If it feels good, it should be good.
@@UpAllNight91 yes agreed. But the cylinder head the sleeve that the cam sits on was also worn I clean it up with some scotch bright but I still don’t feel comfortable to run it like that I think almost like it has to be a machine job rapier. It’s such a bummer because is a GYTR cylinder head and I want it to be saved
I think all that needs to be done is a new ECU or a ECU with less hours to be installed on the bike. This was a huge issue in the street bike world sometime back when the miles was stored on the cluster. Clusters would be sold on ebay with the miles listed for this reason. Not much we can do about it except know what we are buying. If its listed with 25 hours, does it look like only 25 hours or 125 hours lol. All we can do is look for the tell tale signs of wear in little areas.
@UpAllNight91 maybe if you could do a video one day for us novices of what to look for when buying a low houred second hand bike to try figure out if the the wear matches the hour meter.
at how many hours should I replace my crank bearings and the crankshaft on my 21 yz250f (engine is completely stock, no mods) . Best regards from germany✌️
Hello Germany!!! Always check the crank and crank bearings during every top end. If they check out well during top end jobs then for a MX bike on the track with jumps I suggest replacing the crankshaft and crank bearings every 200 hours no matter how well it specs out at 200 hours, for safety reasons. However for a bike being used on the trail, play riding and such its ok to go past 200 hours as long as everything checks out well during top end jobs. Its mainly just for MX use which is harder, faster riding with jumps that it should be replaced at 200 hours no matter how well it checks out, for safety reasons.
This guy is great no case splitters no torque wrenchs. Knows how to get the job done and it works. Wish there was more people like you out there that knows you dont need all those fancy tools to get the job done rite.
Thanks!. When I first started this channel I would often get comments saying "thats not the right tool for that". Them comments have finally kinda faded away. I even said in one video "I make these videos for the home gamer, if you have all the special tools you probably do this for a living and I dont even know why your watching this video" lol. Thanks for the kinds words!👍
You can tell this isn't your first rodeo, you have allot of skill and abilities . I enjoy watching your video's as you are meticulous with every bike, unlike some u-tubers that have no talent and just shoot the parts cannon at it. Keep up the fine video's 🙂 👍
Appreciate the kind words! I will do my best to keep them up😉
Another good video 👌🏽 sad to see but also cool to see at the same time … never seen a valve snap and get stuck .. can’t wait for part 2 and hopefully you get to rip and we get to see! 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Thanks! For sure a bummer, but when shes done she will be 100% or better. Bike only had 52 hours on it, and maybe 30 hours since last top end.
learned some new tips. I do the same with the fuel tank and bunjee cord it to the rear fender. Got me curious to what the ticking sounds like now before the bike locks up.
Nice! its a light ticking, sounds kinda like a light lifter tap on a car motor. Thats if its starting to mash down the tip of the valve. But when you check your valves as long as all the valves are within spec or slightly tighter than spec your good. If you find a valve that the valve clearance has increased, thats when you should dig deeper to find out. Its safe and normal for the clearance to tighten up through time, but its not safe and normal if the clearance becomes greater through time.
Wow, glad i sold my yz250f and got a 2 stroke
I love my 2 strokes too!
My four stroke XR bikes last . Racing is a different story
@@stravis3269 For sure, The XR's go and go and go!
Sold my 2018 yz250f for a yz125
@@Aidanbryl I love my YZ125
Love your videos , thanks for entertaining me , and thanks for teaching me how to fix my bike 🙌🏻
Thanks! Your welcome. Glad to hear and thanks for watching!
You remain the best mechanical at YT. You made me belive that when I get another bike, I even might begin tinkering with it :D
Thanks man! Appreciate that! For sure, the only way to learn is to get your hands dirty. You got this!
Glad ur back at it on Yamaha s
Yes sir! Probably the most popular brand these day!
Another great video!!! Might as well go for the GYTR kit since he's already going to have to put so much into it.
Thanks! I will know this morning if he wants to do the GYTR kit or not. Looks like a cool kit with the CDI and all.
New sub but loving your channel! Extremely informative. I really like Yamahas but haven’t owned any (yet). Maybe that’ll have to change haha. I’ve been learning a ton from your videos as well as 2vintage and Kincaide pavich. All different style but super helpful
Thanks for thew sub and welcome aboard! I gotta check them channels out you mentioned. I also like 2 stroke stuffen. he has a cool channel
That's one of the reasons I switched to two strokes hahahah
I feel ya there. I would cry if I had a $2300 parts bill pop up out of no where
@@UpAllNight91 Me too, I went from a 2019 crf250r to a 2019 sx150 and I'm satisfied :)
@@igortbp Nice! The 150sx is a ripper too
Sweet video.
Thanks!
Funny.... I've NEVER had a valve drop or had to even check valves on my YZ250X...LMAO. BTW what the heck is in the background that sounds like you're dropping bolts on the floor??? Great video
Thanks. I have a tree over my shop that keeps dropping like egg corn kinda things on the roof lol
@UpAllNight91 At first I thought you were dropping bolts, but I know your not that clumsy being a respected mechanic for so long. Keep the videos coming
@@thomasphilyaw8593 LoL. I never even thought about how that would sound on the video. Funny.
How many hours does your FX have?
@TheMadMonkey3 It's just an X, not an FX. Which means it's a 2 stroke... that's why I never had to check my valves LOL
Nice video! I was wondering how many hours would you recommend doing a top end on a 2016 Yamaha YZF 250, used amateurally on an mx track?
Hello. 50 to 60 hours is good for a 250F. Can shorten that up to 30 to 40 hours if the rider is really really fast. And extend to around 75 hours for a slower rider.
@@UpAllNight91 thanks!
How many bars is your air compressor love your videos dude much love from sweden
Thanks and Hello! I run my air compressor at 9 bar. It does allow me to turn it up to around 10.5 bar if needed but does good at 9 with less wear and tear.
@@UpAllNight91 ok thanks. its time for a full motor rebuild on my yz 250F i will wait for part 2 comming up. your videos helpt me alot specily the yfz 450R quad rebuild video you did. you are really a life saver brother 🙌🏻👏🏻
@@bobileksen3496 Thanks man! I'm glad to hear its helped you out! 🤙 Part 2 should be up by later next week.
Most likely it was lack of value maintenance. It’s a small clearance between TDC and valve. Definitely would have measured value lash first. I’d bet they are all off. The head is still good, replacing valve seats. The final brake was by turning by hand. Good video though. Go ahead and put stage 2 hot cams and chain. There probably same cost. I’d say under $800 and have pretty good upgrades. Do a little bit of porting and polishing on the exhaust side. I mean very minor and you’ll be amazed at the difference don’t take material out just polish.
I’ve have worked on Yamaha bikes since I was 13 I’m 50 now. lol. I hope my commute isn’t taken as trying to cut your video or you down.
JOJOBIGS
Hello. The valves wear in two different places that changes valve clearance. The valve seating area and the valve tip. Wear in either of them two places will cause the valve to sit higher up in the head(further from the piston), not lower. So I dont think valve clearance or lack of valve adjustments was the cause. Yamaha does not sell valve seats alone for these bikes. There may be aftermarket options but at that point we would be at the mercy of the machinist and how quality his work is. The owner is working towards lorettas and doesn't want to take any chances and miss out on his chance, so a new OEM is the safest option as far as quality control. The turning by hand, well he landed in the air with the motor already locked up and then once back on the ground he hit the starter button and said it did spin over but didnt sound good. So I'm thinking the landing broke anything that was binded up in the motor. Turning by hand is very easy and gentle and as long as you dont go forcing anything usually no further damage is done. I agree on the performance upgrades but the owner is racing in the stock class so we are kinda stuck keeping it stock for the time being. I do plan to slip in as much blue printing and crank truing and stuff I can that will fly under the radar if hes protested and has his motor torn open but I have to keep it pretty stock otherwise. And no worries, I do appreciate the comment and thanks for watching too. It looks like all the parts arrived today so hopefully I will have her going next week and the part 2 uploaded. Hope you have a great weekend!
Oh also. I did later notice the motor has a pro X piston in it and not a OEM piston. He bought this from a pro race team thats based out of Florida. He bought the bike with 22 hours on it and was told it was a bone stock bike used as a practice bike. But now that we see it has a cheaper piston in it as well as a little more cylinder wear than I would expect to see at 52 hours. I question if the team took any stock used head and cylinder off the shelf and put it on the bike to sell it. Removing the modified head that was on it. And if that was the case we may never know how many hours was on that head and valves. I have seen valves drop heads off them when used over 200 hours at a race level. This is one reason valves should be replaced at 200 hours at a race pace level. But who knows how many hours may have been on this head.
Was the rod bearing still good?
Yes it was. Peerfectly good actually. Only the rod showed damage.
If a hydrolocked motor wouldn’t turn over and u forced it to with your hand would it bend rod?
It would be really hard to honestly. What bent this rod is the pressure was only on one side of the piston. I have seen hydrolocked motors bend rods but I think it would be hard to do by hand. Just a guess though, never tried myself lol
what's your opinion on guys recommending 20 hour timing chains on these how often would you replace for the average rider non pro
Well I only recently heard the buzz on these timing chains but I have yet to see a problem with them myself. I have seen these chains go over 100 hours with no problems, although I wouldnt suggest that. For a average rider I would say 50 hours for every top end and timing chain in fine. If the rider is really fast and works the motor really hard then shorten it to 30 or 40 hours or so. Stay tuned to this comment section, if there truly have been timing chain issues I'm sure someone will chime in. I just havent seen any myself.
Has kibble white stainless steel intake valves put in my 2020 yz250f and 17 hours later my timing chain started to break
@@barneyprince9257 that's kinda what I speculated when I heard chains breaking. The kibble white valves are heavier than the stock titanium valves and require heavier stronger valves springs which puts more strain on the timing chain for sure
I'm working on a top end in my 21 yz250fx. 113hrs on the bike and this is my first top end. I do a lot of slow trail riding with the gf, and the carbon build up was my biggest issue. Anyway, I'd agree with doing a top end way before this despite mine going this long. It's all about how hard the bike is ridden.
@@Dan_416 For sure, it does really depend how hard the bike is riden. I know a women who has like 250 hours on her YZ250f and it made it with the stock piston and timing chain. Although she is doing a top end on it as we speak, but it made it safely.
My yz 250F have worn cam caps. I did buy another set of cam caps from a another dude that has the same bike because is not possible to buy only cam caps from Yamaha. Will this work? the EAN number on the caps match expect the exhaust cam cap. I heard that the cam caps most be installed with the original cylinder head that came from the factory because is bored diameter match
Hello. Yes, its always recommended to use the cam caps that come with the head. However machining is so accurate these days and each head is cut nearly identical that if a different cam cap is needed and its not feasible to change out the whole head then it can be worth a try to use a different set of cam caps. I would install the cams in the head with the new cam caps and check that they spin freely and dont have any play. If it feels good, it should be good.
@@UpAllNight91 yes agreed. But the cylinder head the sleeve that the cam sits on was also worn I clean it up with some scotch bright but I still don’t feel comfortable to run it like that I think almost like it has to be a machine job rapier. It’s such a bummer because is a GYTR cylinder head and I want it to be saved
@@bobileksen3496 Oh man that is a bummer. I know machine shops can repair it but not sure how durable the repair comes out.
When buying a second yz 4stroke do you ever think or know off the ecu being tempered with so the bike shows lower hours. And is there any indications?
I think all that needs to be done is a new ECU or a ECU with less hours to be installed on the bike. This was a huge issue in the street bike world sometime back when the miles was stored on the cluster. Clusters would be sold on ebay with the miles listed for this reason. Not much we can do about it except know what we are buying. If its listed with 25 hours, does it look like only 25 hours or 125 hours lol. All we can do is look for the tell tale signs of wear in little areas.
@UpAllNight91 thanks. Yeh I don't have much trust in my 30 hour yz450
@@malikedwards2180 Oh, thats a bummer. Crap
@UpAllNight91 maybe if you could do a video one day for us novices of what to look for when buying a low houred second hand bike to try figure out if the the wear matches the hour meter.
@@malikedwards2180 I will do that. Thanks for the suggestion. Will try to put one together in the next week or less.
at how many hours should I replace my crank bearings and the crankshaft on my 21 yz250f (engine is completely stock, no mods) . Best regards from germany✌️
Hello Germany!!! Always check the crank and crank bearings during every top end. If they check out well during top end jobs then for a MX bike on the track with jumps I suggest replacing the crankshaft and crank bearings every 200 hours no matter how well it specs out at 200 hours, for safety reasons. However for a bike being used on the trail, play riding and such its ok to go past 200 hours as long as everything checks out well during top end jobs. Its mainly just for MX use which is harder, faster riding with jumps that it should be replaced at 200 hours no matter how well it checks out, for safety reasons.
@@UpAllNight91 okay thanks!
@@hufo125 Yes Sir!
We have delt with Kawasaki heads in a diesel engine.. they. Split hair line under stress
Bottom end is perfect. Heads is the problem
Iron heads still will crack
Mule trans diesel 2007
@@stravis3269 Woh, I didnt know Kawasaki made a diesel engine.