To put valves in or take out, I make a clod out of a rag, put the cylinder head on top of that. Then i have an old big screwdriver which I welded a fork on, which can take the valve stem. And than push the valve spring by hand, with the other i take the keepers out with a magnet, just like you do. Installing the keepers is easier because the valve is upright, so the keepers slide down by themselves. It takes a little bit of strength, but motorbike valve springs are not that hard to compress. Love your long video's. On The Pipe!!!
Thanks! My brother does valves similar to how you do it and tells me it works well. Ive seen some videos where they say heads need to be mailed out to a machine shop to have the valves changed and stuff and i'm like no, we can do that ourselves. BRAAAP!
@@UpAllNight91 Mostly when i change a piston for someone i take the valve's out as well. Lap the valve's with lapping paste. I repair mx bike's for hobby, so it doesn't cost the youngsters an arm and a leg. Young MX riders wallets are always empty, so like to help them out.
@@masterofdisaster7427 Right on, and thanks for helping where you can.. I try to avoid lapping titanium valves because they have a hardened coating on the valve and once that coating is worn off it will wear quickly and need consistent adjustments. When I have a head that actually needs a lapping I try to use a old valve to lap it so I don't wear the new or current good valve.
For sure. Wasn't my mistake though which saves me on this one lol. But when my friend Ross bought the bike and told me it had 22 hours on it I suggested doing a top end mainly for inspection. This is something I do to any used bike I bring home no matter how low the hours are. He opted out on this one (usually he doesnt). I forgot to mention in the video but the cylinder also had more wear (cross hatching was faint) than what I would expect from a 52 hour bike. Had we did a top end when it was bought at 22 hours I would have noticed the aftermarket piston and cylinder wear. I would have asked Ross to get in contact with the seller because we surely need more into now. This is surely the reason I myself will only buy a virgin bike when buying a used bike and even then I do a top end before riding it. I know it sounds over kill but we ride mainly tracks with big jumps and its just for safety reasons. The mistake I did make was during tear down in the first video I should have checked the cam timing, to verify it didnt jump out of time from a faulty chain tensioner. I call him and told him I would buy the tensionor since I forgot to check that but he insisted no and he would buy it. I don't believe it jumped because only one intake valve made contact but I still don't want to leave any stone un turned. We also ordered a new cylinder which I think I forgot to mention in the parts part of the video lol
Thank you Sir! Uploading part 3 as we speak. Its a long one though at 2 hours and 15 minutes. There will be a part 4 and that one will be far shorter and a wrap. Hoping to hear her start up tomorrow!
Any chance you could hit me with a list of tools used in thiis series? My yzf 250 has just seized and i need to go get all the tools before stripping its my first major project
Besides your normal basic hand tools you will need a flywheel puller and torque wrench. I think thats about all you will need as far as special tools. The rest can be done with basic hand tools seen in the video.
@@UpAllNight91 hey bud have you got somewhere I can send a quick video to ?? I managed to free the kickstarter and get her running but I've got a couple noises
On my yz 125 when I spin my rod with piston off it makes a obvious spinning noise that kinda sounds like a bad Main bearing, but could the sound just be the gear on crank spinning with clutch basket gear?
It totally could be. Does it feel nice and smooth when you rock the rod back and forth without actually spinning the crank? If so you are probably good.
@@UpAllNight91 yes it does feel completely smooth but no body else’s I know makes the sound crank or flywheel have no play either do you have something I could and a vid to u on?
To put valves in or take out, I make a clod out of a rag, put the cylinder head on top of that. Then i have an old big screwdriver which I welded a fork on, which can take the valve stem. And than push the valve spring by hand, with the other i take the keepers out with a magnet, just like you do.
Installing the keepers is easier because the valve is upright, so the keepers slide down by themselves.
It takes a little bit of strength, but motorbike valve springs are not that hard to compress.
Love your long video's. On The Pipe!!!
Thanks! My brother does valves similar to how you do it and tells me it works well. Ive seen some videos where they say heads need to be mailed out to a machine shop to have the valves changed and stuff and i'm like no, we can do that ourselves. BRAAAP!
@@UpAllNight91 Mostly when i change a piston for someone i take the valve's out as well. Lap the valve's with lapping paste.
I repair mx bike's for hobby, so it doesn't cost the youngsters an arm and a leg. Young MX riders wallets are always empty, so like to help them out.
@@masterofdisaster7427 Right on, and thanks for helping where you can.. I try to avoid lapping titanium valves because they have a hardened coating on the valve and once that coating is worn off it will wear quickly and need consistent adjustments. When I have a head that actually needs a lapping I try to use a old valve to lap it so I don't wear the new or current good valve.
@@UpAllNight91 cheers, good tip, ill keep that in mind and use an old valve next time.
@@masterofdisaster7427 right on!
Going to be a runner, they didnt spare no expense
For sure! Should as good or better than new! Thats the plan at least.
@@UpAllNight91 Rite hopefully though.
Right before I go to bed! 🤘🏽 love these but this was a costly mistake for buddy!!😬
For sure. Wasn't my mistake though which saves me on this one lol. But when my friend Ross bought the bike and told me it had 22 hours on it I suggested doing a top end mainly for inspection. This is something I do to any used bike I bring home no matter how low the hours are. He opted out on this one (usually he doesnt). I forgot to mention in the video but the cylinder also had more wear (cross hatching was faint) than what I would expect from a 52 hour bike. Had we did a top end when it was bought at 22 hours I would have noticed the aftermarket piston and cylinder wear. I would have asked Ross to get in contact with the seller because we surely need more into now. This is surely the reason I myself will only buy a virgin bike when buying a used bike and even then I do a top end before riding it. I know it sounds over kill but we ride mainly tracks with big jumps and its just for safety reasons. The mistake I did make was during tear down in the first video I should have checked the cam timing, to verify it didnt jump out of time from a faulty chain tensioner. I call him and told him I would buy the tensionor since I forgot to check that but he insisted no and he would buy it. I don't believe it jumped because only one intake valve made contact but I still don't want to leave any stone un turned. We also ordered a new cylinder which I think I forgot to mention in the parts part of the video lol
Ive been looking forward for the part 2!!
Right on! I think this rebuild might go up to 4 parts. Tomorrow will be doing the bottom end.
Greetings from the desert great video as always. 🙂🏜👍
Thanks and Hello Bradley! Hope alls well out there!
Smart to keep it stock.
For sure, at least it will be more reliable thats for sure.
Another great video!!!
Thank you Sir! Uploading part 3 as we speak. Its a long one though at 2 hours and 15 minutes. There will be a part 4 and that one will be far shorter and a wrap. Hoping to hear her start up tomorrow!
Even though everything is new how do you check your valves to see if there's a leak ?
I pour water into the cylinder with the port facing up. And see if it leaks past the valves. I show a few times in the video.
Any chance you could hit me with a list of tools used in thiis series? My yzf 250 has just seized and i need to go get all the tools before stripping its my first major project
Besides your normal basic hand tools you will need a flywheel puller and torque wrench. I think thats about all you will need as far as special tools. The rest can be done with basic hand tools seen in the video.
@@UpAllNight91 cheers mate love the videos they are so in detail it helps for a novice like me 👍
@@mr0fucks Thanks! Glad to hear they have been of good help. Let me know if you run into any hang ups.
@@UpAllNight91 hey bud have you got somewhere I can send a quick video to ?? I managed to free the kickstarter and get her running but I've got a couple noises
@@mr0fucks Yes you can email it to me at upallnight91@hotmail.com
I didn't see you lap any of the valves either !!
Yes sir. I try to avoid lapping valves as much as possible. If they seal good without lapping, then its good to go.
On my yz 125 when I spin my rod with piston off it makes a obvious spinning noise that kinda sounds like a bad Main bearing, but could the sound just be the gear on crank spinning with clutch basket gear?
It totally could be. Does it feel nice and smooth when you rock the rod back and forth without actually spinning the crank? If so you are probably good.
@@UpAllNight91 yes it does feel completely smooth but no body else’s I know makes the sound crank or flywheel have no play either do you have something I could and a vid to u on?
@@SethMacgillivary Yes, email it to upallnight91@hotmail.com
@@UpAllNight91 just emailed you
@@SethMacgillivary I checked it out. That sounds totally normal to me. I hear bikes that sound like that when I spin the crank real fast all the time.
What state are you in?
Im in Parrish Florida.