Installing an Eaton advantage clutch
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.พ. 2021
- In this video I install an Eaton advantage clutch in an international 7400.
Here is a link to the clutch adjustment: Adjusting an Eaton advantage clutch • Adjusting an Eaton adv...
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Here is a link to the Eaton clutch install and adjustment procedures of many different clutches
www.roadranger.com/rr/Customer...
Here is a link to the procedure for the clutch in the video:
www.roadranger.com/ecm/idcplg?... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
And I just want to say bro, amazing job doing this chore. Some people will say you done it wrong and you should of this and that but you checked, verified, and double checked every part In the best of your ability. I commend you for that and great work.. also some people have no clue how heavy that darn assembly is.. no person wants to pick up that entire clutch assembly and try and stab it in the pilot!
Thank you so much. Now I know why I had a tough time getting my 1970 international tractor back together after cracking it apart to replace the clutch. I thought the clutch alignment tool would make it "easy peasy", not realizing the subtleties of it sliding in and out. Kind regards. Craig
It’s an art really😁
A small tip but is useful, an engine usually has its favorite spot stop, if you put the adjuster at the bottom (assuming you haven't turned the engine after it was shut down) it is likely to stop at that position next time, making adjustment easier in the future.
That’s a pretty good idea. I’ll keep that in mind next time. Thank you.
excellent video, thank you
This old girl kicked your ass, but you never gave up on it..Nice job, thanks for showing it to us..Be safe, See ya
It did give me a tough time. I don’t really like pulling a transmission out or I don’t like putting them in is a better way of putting it. They come out pretty easy. It’s the tools and cords on the floor that get me the most. I need to just sweep everything out from under the trucks next time.
So question.. say I’m pulling the clutch out how can I inspect the pressure plates/ friction plates to know they are reusable or need replacing?
You're using the alignment tool wrong. You're supposed to stack the assembly upon the tool, and put it all in place
That’s what people say but I’m not gonna try and pick up the whole clutch by myself under there. It’s pretty heavy and I don’t need to risk pinching my fingers and hurt myself just to save some time.
Work smartter not harder. Im having the same issue. Not liftibg a 150lbs assembly just to save me 15 minutes
i liked your video but i always advised the tecks to install a new pilot bearing!
I bought one but they gave me the wrong one. The one in it was only used for two plow seasons. The truck only has about 50k on it and it was changed once already. But I know what you mean it’s good advice.
Cheap insurance
Spin that outer disc ring counter clockwise and it would have line up with the nest hole in the top middle.
Good job.
Pro tip. Glue little level to the side of the trans before you take it apart. The act ac guides to get the shaft in
That’s a pretty good idea, thank you. I think some torpedo levels have magnets on them.
Gracias
Educational Thanks for sharing.
No new pilot bearing, and flywheel not cut? Plus stack the entire assembly on the clutch alignment tool. Why waste the money and time if none of this is done? Pretty rough.
Put the bolts in and the blocks of wood should fall out and then you can move the bearing around into position.. then turn over the motor
29 Eaton Rep. No grease on splines, resurface the flywheel, replace the pilot bearing, and put the clutch assembly together on the lineup shaft.
I hear what your saying. Those are all best practice things to do when replacing the clutch. Resurface your flywheel if it needs to be resurfaced, replace a pilot bearing, as for greasing the splines I don’t agree with you and other people don’t as well. cvwmagazine.co.uk/best-practise-hub-spline-greasing/ . As for installing the clutch and one shot on the alignment tool the clutch weighs between 100 and 150 pounds I’m not gonna try to pick up the whole thing and slip it in that hole and try to line it up and risk pinching my fingers or hurting myself when I can just put it on one piece at a time like I did.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic The grease slings out and gets on the friction pads on the clutch discs. The clutch weighs 150lbs. You have to resurface or replace the flywheel to qualify for the warranty. It will void the warranty if you don’t. Nice job though. Just some tips from an old dude. Lol
I was unaware of needing to resurface the flywheel for the warranty. It’s not something that would come up with what we are using the trucks for. Using them as salt trucks they don’t get a ton of use and this one in particular wasn’t very old but the adjuster ring seized from the salt and broke some teeth trying to get it to move so that’s why I had to change it. Good info to know thank you.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic You are right. That salt is tough on them. The Advantage clutch is the absolute best clutch on the market. You are definitely using the right clutch.
Why has no one told him he installed the pressure plate upside down…. The adjustment bolt is supposed to be on the bottoms so you can quick adjust it from the access plate. And the alignment tool should have been stacked before he tried to put it all on there. He did an ok job but made it way harder on himself.
What is that adjustment bolt used for?
Was that second clutch plate not facing the pressure plate side?
I haven’t had any problems with it. Is there a specific time stamp you want me to check?
Very interesting,
Smart and well done..
Thank you.
Good job , but you should have change the fly wheel bearing too
Pilot bearing*
Jason where are u at?
I was a aircraft hydraulics mechanic n the Navy. the stuff i worked on was never rusty or covered with grease. no air chisels hammers or torches were required. so much easier than some of the stuff i see you working on. you should think about being a jet aircraft mech. lol
Funny you say that I worked with a aircraft mechanic at my last job. You guys have an eye for detail with all the regulations working on aircraft. I wouldn’t worry about a job getting done right with an aircraft guy on the job.
Then your not a true Mechanic, dirt and elements teach you how to improvise and diagnose better
So what caused the bell housing to break and having to get a new one? If you dont mind me asking
The driver hit a rock in the snow bank while plowing.
What’s the part number for pilot bearing
I’m not sure, fleet pride gave me the wrong bearing.
Im thinking your pilot bearing needed changing, you pilot shaft SHOULD of stayed in. (or your sfaft end was worn) as ive done to many, and never had those issues,
No mwntion of pilot bearing replacement.
I have a separate video of this replacement which was for a broken flywheel housing. I believe I did say to replace the pilot bearing in this video but fleet pride didn’t give me the right one. This clutch was changed only about two thousand miles ago before I changed it for this video but it’s a plow truck and the adjuster seized up which is why I was replacing it for this video. The pilot bearing was good and is still working fine today. It is best practice to replace it like you say but in this instance I did not and it’s been fine. Its been a while since I made the video and I don’t recall a problem with the pilot shaft not staying it but the installer was a cheap piece of plastic and was bending if that’s what your referring to.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic ok, I get it, as a retired fellow, I look for TH-cams to show owner/operators so they know what going on and can assist me doing repairs for them, so much misinformation on TH-cam, halfbaked stuff.
I rework steel OEM shafts I get from factory rebuilders for pilots, and when I do clutches I also change the input bearing on the trans, and use the shaft to install clutch on flywheel if I don't have a pilot shaft, things we learn with time and bald heads
I had a new clutch on my freightshaker and i can still here the throwout rattle when under load. Wtf, not happy, Muni , any idea why?
Is there a spring for the pedal linkage that’s missing allowing the weight of the pedal to push the throw out bearing against the pressure plate?
Did you need to remove the clutch fork linkage to allow it to rotate more to get it to clear the throw out bearing? I’m getting ready to do the same thing and it doesn’t look like the clutch fork will rotate enough to get behind the throw out bearing like it is supposed to.
I didn’t need to remove the arm off of the church fork shaft but I did need to remove the linkage rod off of the arm.
Sir. Good pm i'm leomar form mindanao i'm philippines .my work is big truck driver.. sir i need you help because trouble my unit is not work low ger 5 end hi ger 6 is not working please i need help
What is the transmission you have?
Sorry. Ahmmm.... My unit is Freight liner sir electronic po
I've used a 3500lb winch to remove a stuck transfer case on a dodge ram. I parked my truck behind, and ran the cable under. The truck slid for a second the pop.
That must have been stuck pretty good. I had to use our loader to pull a wheel off one of our plow trucks. I drove it around with loose lug nuts to try and get it to break free and backed over rocks but it wouldn’t come off. Tried a 90lb jack hammer between the wheels and left it sitting on a chisel over night too.
3.-4 a bear dragging its meal in to his cave . done it many times the clutch that is
😂 I see what you mean. Those clutches have some weight to them.
Never put anti-seize on linkages. They will come loose. You want those parts to hold a setting. At most a little pb blaster, wd-40, or kroil. Sometimes rust is your friend.
Anti-seize doesn’t mean auto loosen. I’ve tightened literally hundreds of thousands of things with anti-seize and not one has ever come apart.
Now that's a job C'mon!!
It does have its challenges.