Just did the swap with your video in the background! Worked perfectly and took less time than I expected! Ordered the rotor from EFS RMSTATOR Europe, in case anyone is looking for one 🙂
Finally installed mine yesterday on my 2011. Was a bit snug coming out, but I really appreciated you pay on putting it back in! My assembly came apart between our of the old and onto the new, so had to check the ship manual for the order of parts, but you video held me snap it back into the beating in about 1 minute by reaching my fingers to the back and turning one of the rotors to line them up. Thank you.
The glue that holds the magnets started to fail on my rotor after 28k km. Luckily I was close to home so only a little bit of scratching happened to the core of the stator which was easily cleaned. I just replaced the rotor with the newer model thanks to you. Amazing video and very confidence inspiring! Thanks for making it!
Thankyou for this lovely guide AMC. I've just gone and done the change from the grenade rotor to the newer captive magnet variety. I've used the cereal box cardboard technique to avoid it eating the washer or bearing spacer. Putting the bike in 6th gear allows you to force the engine round by the back wheel and then get the flywheel jug properly meshing. Anyway thankyou for your lovely video and keep up the good work I still think the fz1 once this is done is better than the current honda machine you're rocking.
Extraordinary explanation, all do's and don'ts. When I was removing the rotor I was really terrified that parts would fall into the engine case but guess I was lucky. Thanks for the video!
Found your channel and decided to go with a good deal on an 07 FZ1. Appreciate you taking the time to make these vids and took care of this particular issue this past weekend! Was not prepared for just how much pressure was needed to keep the rotor in place whilst pulling the stator and cover apart! Got lucky as my whole assembly (rotor, gears, spacers, and washer) all pulled out as a piece. Thanks for the e-help! 👍
I just bought an 07 FZ1 as well... Needs a little TLC but couldn't pass up on the deal lol and plus parts are really cheap to make it look like a brand new bike. But it has 24k on it and watching this I almost want to change this part out as well lol.... I'm sure mine has the OEM. But I don't want anything to happen to the engine if I'm dumping 1500$ into it on parts and aftermarket stuff, etc.
@@codyalcorn8891its over hyped and not that common. Only a couple of hundred bikes between 2004 and 2005 (if its the a 5VY R1) and 2008 models had the same issue again breifly with the non O-ring part. Ive heard people say it grenades the engine yet still to find a 5VY R1 wrecked because of it. It a bike mechanic of 4 decades BTW and kept all the replacement ones which ive just had a look at them all again yesterday. Most are fine and the better epoxy with the slightly differnent shaped magnets. Ohh and stay away from the RM part its worse than the original part, its not even machined correctly and the sheath has been known to touch the staitor magnets the lot. The wiring on it is abysmal too so avoid that junk at all costs. Again, the 5VY R1 is regarded as one of the most reliable bikes ever made so thats how bad this issue really is. Ive only witnessed one failure of it on a 2008 R1 when they did the same mistake again. Its the oil eats the 3M epoxy they use West Systems 105 now on the upgraded part
Dude, I have to say a big thanks. I've been having a few troubles with the bike and it turns out the Generator has completely shit it's self !!!!!! Basic I went for a run on Sunday and the bike died 1 mile from home. Looked like a dead battery at 9.5v when measured when I got it home. New battery installed and throws up Code 46. Checking a few things and see that the battery isn't charging. Check the Regulator/Rectifier and it seemed to be ok. Watched your video last night, 31st October. Came home from work and stripped Generator to discover lots of broken bits. Lucky for me I got this in time as all the bits are inside the stator/rotor. Looks like it's going to be expensive in parts!!!!! Can't complain on a 2007 FZ1 with 85,000km on the clock.
I’m really sorry to hear that this happened to you Marcus, but very happy to have helped you get to the bottom of it! I’m many ways that’s a stroke of luck that all the bits stayed in the generator. Could have been far more expensive!!
Ugh!! @9:36 Felt bad for ya when the magnets on the new rotor pinched your fingers, Andy. You deserve a pint of your favorite beer for that!! Thanks for sharing your rotor replacement video with us; very helpful and informative. Cheers, Bro🍺
All good, you obviously know what you're doing. My only bit of advice thrown in, is always remember what holes the bolts came out of. Admittedly they all look the same length in this instance, but many a time I've taken covers off and found some bolts longer or shorter than others, or even different thread sizes. Don't just throw them in a heap and hope for the best when replacing.
Well done... Researching procedures is so easy... I always enjoy the knowledge and humor.... Torqueing fasteners is so critical... Especially if a sequence is called for... Hope your pinched finger episode didn't demonetize vid.... Thanks again...
I was watching random videos on the Tube when I saw yours...I ordered the new rotor and replaced as well on my FZ1-N (2011). It’s incredible how a giant motor company like Yamaha didn’t make a public campaign. What can happen if the rotor explode while you drive on the highway? Shame on you Yamaha. Thanks for sharing man!
they did address it they started fitting the newer part within months of it being known. Its only the very early bikes that had the bad epoxy. On the 5vy R1 it got the better epoxy ones within 6 month and the full new sheathed part within a year. You want to moan about Yamaha when BMW, Ducati, KTM, Aprilia have a bunch of time bombs in them and they dont even bother upgrading the part? i mean the entire s1000rr is a heap of junk and needs everything on it redesigned to last more than 30k miles 😂 I know becaue ive had two and both melted out piston crowns on stock tune with one of them having piston 1 take a tumble in the barrel. That was then refited with a new engine on warranty, my mate bought it from me and the new engine blew up 17k miles later so he insurance jobbed it. Dont even start me on Ducati, my last ducati blew up so bad parts of its engine were in my boots. Yamaha are the best for recalls and upgrades out of ANY motorbike manufacturer and i should know, im a bike mechanic of 4 decades
Thanks Andy for the video. I know you’ve moved on but I just love my 2012 FZ1. Changed handlebar position, Yoshi exhaust Woolich tuned, it is so much better than stock - so smooth. At approx 37000 km, I decided to replace the Rotor. Followed your video, it was the best out there and so accurate 😎. When I pulled the rotor out, the gears, washer and spacer all came out with it so my biggest fear vanished. The old rotor was in perfect condition 🤔 - and I paid $$ for an OEM replacement 😳. Thanks for your help. Love the riding videos but also the garage ones. Keep it safe and thanks for your positive inspiration. If you ever come to Australia, I’d love to shout you a beer and take you for a ride.
No surprise mate, it’s an awesome bike! That’s the real kicker with that rotor. It looks totally fine, until it’s not! Might never go, could explode tomorrow. At least you know that you’re 100% safe now!!
Just wanted to say thanks for the video Andy. My rotor failed on me the other day and shed it magnets 😔 But after watching this video 3 or 4 times and taking notes I've managed to replace mine myself 👍
Firstly, thank you for this "how to" video. I live in Canada and have a 2007 R1, I decided to proactively change the rotor even though mine looked fine at 22k. I didn't see the need to replace the stator so just did the rotor. I had 3 options, $950.Cnd for OEM, or $250 for the RM or Kimpex (China Made) replacement. I called RM Stator first but they were unfortunately resistant to answer my questions, I found their customer service poor. I ordered a Kimpex brand one which looked exactly the same as RM Stator's. The rotor looked decent but had improper machine tolerances, the spacer didn't fit over the shaft - some people apparently sand it down but I didn't feel comfortable doing this, nor should you need to if machined properly. Additionally, it fit too loosely when seated in the bearing. Returned for OEM. BTW the OEM has updated this part and it does look slightly different than these Chinese knock offs. In a high HP, high RPM engine, I'd buy Japan made OEM... just my opinion. Good luck & stay safe!
Bonded (glued) ........ our word is our bond and small deposit secures, thanks for the education and relieved that no small parts disappeared down into the crankcase, cheers Andy!
If you’re worried that parts have fallen into the engine, then definitely yes. And then try to find the bits that you think you are missing, just to be sure that you got it all.
Hello Andy from Australia i just got a 2010 FZ1N and the first thing i bought is this updated rotor i took the cover off to change it and there was already the updated one looking back at me lol thanks to the previous owner but now i have two updated rotors haha
Hello from Colorado. Brilliant video my TH-cam FZ1 brother! Complete with finger pinching and all. I appreciate your going the extra mile! Brilliant idea about holding the rotor through the cover's port while taking it out and putting it in. Like you, the rotor in my '06 has not exploded (yet) and I just got the updated one to install. Your video will help greatly. Hopefully will avoid the pinched finger issue too ;)
Thanks Craig, i do what i can! 😉. Good luck with your swap and enjoy the relaxation afterwards, knowing that your rotor will more likely last the life of the bike!
@@AndyManCam Got her done today, the old rotor was perfect, bearings are perfect, no bleeding involved. A long Phillips screwdriver though the port to hold the rotor in and then holding the cover with my fingertips to avoid your finger pinching episode and it pulled itself together nicely due to the magnets involved. The bike pretty much assembled itself at that step like magic - hehe... Thanks again my friend!
Great video, really made me feel confident in checking if my 2010 FZ1 had the "grenade". Luckily it turned out that the previous owner had swapped the rotor for the updated one. SADLY I fudged up whilst taking it all apart and dropped two of the absorbers in the starter clutch, into the crankcase - So now I am praying to God that I can get them out by removing the oil pan, otherwise, I will be devastated. So... A word of advice to any future viewers: Do as Andy here does, but for the love of anything holy, put a cloth or something over the menacing abyss of the crankcase. I didn't and now I hate myself. Don't be like me, be smart :D
@@AndyManCam thanks mate! It turned into a happy ending. The two absorbers were waiting for me down in the oil pan, so now the bike just needs a coolant and coolant hose replacement, and its ready for the season! Once again your great video came in handy when I finally came around to refitting the rotor and so on 👍🏼👍🏼
AndyManCam lamentablemente es una falla de fabrica que yo no sabia ya que es mi primera moto en 4 cilindros compre una FZ8 y al mes de uso me paso esto, gracias a tu video supo lo que era, te lo agradezco, pero quiero que me saque las dudas, vos sacaste el carter de la moto y cambiaste el aceite, la duda es que si se desparramen los imanes o no se desparraman por el motor, porque al fondo del motor tiene el chumador que envia el aceite al filtro.
That's a real shame. Sorry Luciano. I agree that if the rotor has failed, it's a good idea to take things apart and remove all the pieces. Such a pity that Yamaha did this to it's customers and never attempted to fix it for them.
Thank you for this. I just got an 06 FZ1 from a friend and drove it 30 miles home, then went to get some bread and it died. When searching for charging issues I was alerted to the horrible design of epoxying magnets to the rotor. I opted for the RMStator rotor, stator, and regulator. I have to say it looks bigger on YT. LOL. When I was pulling the rotor out I heard a, tink, as the rotor was coming out. The washer was standing on end in gravity defying fashion. My first thought was to grab my phone and get a picture, but then I came to my senses and grabbed it not wanting to retrieve it from the crankcase. Most of the magnets dislodged and pieces were on the stator. I used a borescope to check around the crankcase for debris an don't see any so I thinks it's good. If I had to do it again I think I would shove a piece of paper/cardboard over the hole in the case to ensure the washer and collar didn't drop in. Overall its not too difficult of a procedure.
@@jasonward3507just installed a rmstator today. Fitment was tighter than oem, but after a bunch of twisting and pushing it fits nicely. Haven't started the bike up yet
Hi Andy. It's a tad late now. But for anyone else thinking of doing this upgrade or removing the generator cover from any bike. A good tip is to get three or four good lengths of threaded rod of the correct thread (200mm - 300mm long). Screw these pieces of rod into evenly spaced holes before re-fitting the cover. then slide the cover down the rods so when the magnets strength becomes to great and snaps it out of your hands, it snaps down level and doesn't cause any damage to the gasket, coils or your finger ends. I've done this every time I've had to take a genny cover off and it does work.
Haha! Thats annoying! Luckily the paint on the Yam seems to be holding it’s own. I had to use some Sdoc100 paint refresher though cos it went grey. Magic stuff. Paint looks like new again!
@@AndyManCam ok, they looked a lot like my MZS. I've done a few things over the last few years to my 2012 FZ1. I ordered a replacement rotor that's on it's way now. Preventative, I've had no issues with stock yet. th-cam.com/play/PLM1U9I2fOqzXYHj4V3tKcV392B_y1E3Cy.html
I thought about doing this over the summer on my 04 R1... didn't... a few weeks ago BOOM... rattle noise and power cut off on the bike mid ride... looks like a easier job than I expected, thanks for the video
@@AndyManCam ordered parts this week, should be here today, going to knock it out this weekend and have her back on the road again. Thanks for the video again, most of the vids i've seen are half ass, no info or just cant see, pretty straight forward though.
Watched the video - ordered a rotor but could not get an oem one - took old out (looked fine, however, the new one was def notwhere near as good quality and did not fit - had to put old one back in! Not happey - but good video - thanks.
Sorry to hear that Julian. But yeah, i wouldn’t bother with anything other than an OEM Rotor. Anything else would likely be swapping one possible problem for a new one! Hope you get it figured out mate.
Yep! That´s what happens to my Yamaha FZ8 Fazer 2014 a few weeks ago. I was in Norway near the northcape. 3500km far from home the magnets of the rotor destroyed the stator. Now I have a completely new generator. Thanks to the Yamaha workshop in Alta (Norway).
I’m really sorry, i honestly can’t remember and i can’t find any info about it. But i pretty much just googled the part number and went for the cheapest brand new item, from a reputable looking seller.
Very helpful video mate! Now that I've acquired the skill to do it myself at home, I'm confused about choosing the right part. OEM one from Japan or the one from RM Stator?
If we want only to to do inspection to the magnets and not replace we don't have to pull out the rotor are we? if we removed only the stator cover the rotor the back washer and the rest stays in place is that correct?
I’ve never seen that job done before Andy. The little tips you provide in making the task easier are helping my less than average, but improving, home servicing skills. Cheers. 👍🏍🇦🇺
Congrats man, loved the video! And the washer "jumping for freedom" right when you realised it was there... lol! Fortunately everything went fine with it! Ps: little side comment. The generator of my V strom 650 2010 took the fair decision to give up while I was on the highway, driving from Naples to Florence, on a lovely Sunday. It took me a while to realise it was not just a simple battery issue, but at that point I was too far to head back home. Got to Florence charging my battery at every single gas station... and replaced the generator! Cheers man! :)
Did the job in the last month. Your video and another both say unplug the cable to the bridge rectifier. It's unnecessary. Having a jack stand set to the left of the cover gives one a place to sit the stator/cover with physical support, and the cable helps stabilize it.
I think that I would always rather just disconnect either the battery or the rectifier. If you've accidentally left the ignition on and then short a tool across the coils then it could be an expensive and annoying cock up. Probably not, but for the 20 seconds it took to unplug the rectifier, the peace of mind that 100% NOTHING can go wrong was definitely worth it! On the other side of the coin, the cable seemed like it was more than man enough to support the stator/cover for the few minutes it took to the job.
Wow very interesting issue with this bike ! I was considering buying a newer year version of this motorcycle but with these obvious design flaws I will need to continue my search ... many thanks for shedding light on this important matter !
Yeah it'S a bit of a killer. It's cool that it's fixable, but 400€ for a preventative fix that might not ever be necessary is a large negative for the bike as a whole. After 2015, I think they all had this rotor installed from the factory. But that was the last year!!
Thank you for the helpful video. I found a new stator from rm stator and has very good reviews for the bike. How would it compare to oem? Money is tight and oem one is 400$ as opposed to the 200$ rmstator
Great video, thank you! I purchased my 2011 used with 6k miles on it in 2017. I have no idea if the orig owner did this update. It looks like i can just take the screws out and take off the cover to see if it's been updated, replace the seal and reseal it together again?
So I’m trying to buy a new flywheel but the pictures don’t show the magnets like the original. So what the new ones have it imbedded in the flywheel or what?
It is easy, until everything falls into the bike! I'd say put the bike on the side stand, just to give you an advantage for when you'Re pulling it out.
@@AndyManCam hi buddy did you notice a different sound coming from the rotor at all.Everything fitted into place nice gasket an cover no probs .just wondering buddy.
Dont go near them. Im a bike mechanic the RM ones last 2yr, the openly chinese ones can last 2 days or 2yr. Get the oem one and use recommended oil only, the oil broke the epoxy down this is the issue.
There's a simple easier way to install the casing, us a couple of long thin rods thru casing & into motor mount holes, keep casing away from magnetic zone, this will line it up perfectly onto dowels, keep rotor held in place as u did, casing will self align when magnets take hold ... watch the pinkies lol.
Thanks Andy, I’ve ordered it for my Fz8 now. Most Fz8 owners have reported that it goes bang at around the 30k mark and I’m currently at 27k ,don’t want to test my luck !!
I can fully understand that! I was going to run the clock on mine but caved after hearing about the giving up as little as 15,000 miles in!! 😳. Annoying, but also satisfying to know that it’s a potential problem avoided! Hope your swap goes well mate.
@@AndyManCamnoticed my bike making whirring sounds recently, especially with prolonged revs or when riding normally. sounds like something is spinning without catching. when in idle or with clutch pulled in, the sound is gone. do you think this is the sign of the rotor needing to be replaced?
@zosin8970 I‘m not so sure. The rotor spins whether the clutch is engaged or not. If it didn’t, the bike would have no electric at idle. Might be worth taking a look at your clutch basket.
@@AndyManCam Thanks for responding. Im probably good on mine(4300 miles) but now Im way too paranoid and am just gonna replace it now since its an 06. Thanks for the vid!
I had mine explode last night and thankfully, I didnt push the bike any further or try to jump start it. If you are lucky and riding around the town and all of a sudden hear a deep noise coming from the engine, then its a sign the rotor is disintegrating and will shred into pieces in no time. Thankfully, I had purchased an OEM part and had it replaced this afternoon. If its disintegrated or shredded, please remove the crankcase, empty and clean the sump, change the oil and oil filter along with crankcase filter. The remains will keep circulating through your engine and cause more damage if you dont do this.
I have a 2006 FZ1N, I love the bike but need to do this fix. Can you provide a link for the new Rotor? There are tons out there. Want to make sure I buy a good one.
Hi Steve. I'm afraid it seems that every year from 2006 - 2014 has the potential for this rotor problem to rear it's ugly head, as the redesigned rotor wasn'T implemented until the 2015 bike. Might be worth a check.
@@AndyManCam I appreciate the heads up Andy. Many thanks. Any tips on resolving the the snatchy gears? I find mine to be quite clunky if that makes any sense. Steve
I totally agree. Though that shows that we are all finally adults! At 20 yrs old, I would have waited until the bike was in flames at the side of the road before spending money on parts!!
Hey brother, I know this video is old and the chance of you replying is low.. but, on the last spacer in the back, the perfectly flat side goes against the bearing and the concaved side goes against the washer on the shaft?
Hi Brian. I’m afraid i honestly couldn’t answer as it was so long ago i can’t remember. Sorry. Check out motorcyclespareparts.eu and search for the FZ1. They have schematic drawings of the parts and might be able to help you.
Last year I had to replaced my stater{becase the fing glue failed on magnets, sure most know about this} on my 2006 FZ1. Well everything went smooth until install. The stater I bought via internet. Well it had a short cable...had to use only one screw to hold the rectifier. resulting in small leak that I traced to the electrical boot. any suggestion? I was thinking of maybe a type of high temp silicon. Should I back out the allen nuts and apply sauce or just apply on boot? I don't want to fuck up worse...any help would be appreciated? Also was kind of sealant sauce should I use? BGShocker Let's Ride...Fast!! ========================================= Red FZ1 2006 Full Carbon Yoshi pipe, and Air box modify =========================================
Thank you AndyManCam, useful guidance indeed, love the touring vids also, I have an FZ1 S 2010, same genealogy for sure. Great motor. Now swapped out the rotor and could not have done it without watching this vid for tips. If you ever make it over for the IOM TT I’ll stand you a burgher and a pint at the Grandstand beer tent.
Top tip... remember wooden clothes pegs?....Broken in half they make very useful prising wedges for aluminium covers. Also a strip of wood across the alternator before replacing the cover prevents the.... "clap" (fnar-fnar) as the cover goes back on. Still I doubt if you'll do that again.
That's a great tip! Now why didn't I think if that!? Of course, I haven't seen a wooden clothes peg for several years and wouldn't know where to get some!! :D Hopefully I'll never have to go in there again anyway!!
Saw a few videos on the same job. Everyone says there is no need to drain the oil. I opened the first bolt which is a monitoring window or idk and the oil is up to that point. Gonna drain it now and try again.
I drained it. It was on the top line of the window. Now I am puzzled whether I should change the rotor. Bike is 2013 fz1 but by VIN it appears to be 2011 with some shops when they search for my bike for spare parts. The rotor looks to be the one with the exposed magnets. Looks fine. Idk which models have that issue. I only know that the covered rotor comes from Yamaha in 2014. Some forums say that it affects 200 2009 models. I'm lost.
@giamademedoit As far as I’m aware, ALL bikes before the fix have the potential for the magnets to come loose. Some will, some won’t. It’s a gamble. But if the magnets let go, it’ll likely cost more than the rotor to put right. For me it was too risky, so i did the swap.
Thank you for the quick reply! My question was, if the problem is with 2006-08 models and the fix was in 2014 with the covered magnets, what's the situation with the 2010-13 models like mine? Mine has exposed magnets but could they be with better epoxy?
@giamademedoit They certainly could. But they also could be an old batch. I can’t imagine Yamaha changed anything until they absolutely had to. By then, many later bikes would have already been assembled with the older parts.
I think that for the sake of the 10€ gasket, it might be worth opening her up and having a look. Just read down the comments here and see how many people it's happened to!
well... too late... mine already exploded... what to do from here? do I have to open the engine to make sure that remaining of the rotor were not left inside, or something like that?
Sorry to hear that Alex. Sadly yes, you need to find all the bits. Removing the oil sump first would probably be the best start. If you find all the pieces in there, you’ll be good to go. Assuming you’ve already taken the rotor out. Sometimes all the parts stick together or to the outside of the rotor housing. Good luck!
@@AndyManCam thx Andy for your answer... And would the stator and the regulator need to be replaced?... I've noticed that the stator is a bit damaged but burnt... What do you think?
And too bloody right!! I gave up my private garage when we moved nearer the city centre. I’ve still got my garage space, but it’s rubbish sharing with people!! I miss it terribly!!
What year model was the 'up-dated' rotor used..? I have a 2012 model. Do I need to up-grade my rotor? I ride pretty aggressively -- including occasional Track Days. And I sure don't want to be 'up in the mountains' and have something come apart!
Awesome stuff from Yamaha, Marcelin. Replace a known bad part with another known bad part, purely because they've clearly got thousands of them sitting on shelves!
Im gonna contact yamaha and ask they will ship me the updated part on their tab. If not,a nice little youtube video will possibly be made about their effort,or lack therof. Good vid. Gives me a look for when I do mine
@@AndyManCam Correct you are. Since no recall was issued,the rep said they couldnt do nothing. Im going to make a video on it just to add to the list and keep going with this. Theyll reimburse my 400 and everyone else one day.
I admire your optimism, but it seems that sadly this is the way the manufacturers work! Any excuse to dodge the bill for their own mistakes. They were the same with the frame weld issue on the early FZ1‘s. Honda have just told me that the paint coming off of the engine of my 1 year old bike is completely normal. 🤦🏻♂️
@@AndyManCam Thanks for the information. I just own an FZ8 with 23,900km on it. I'm considering a preventative replacement. I often see that rotors are replaced at 40,000km.
@auto-tronicchrisskrzysiek6201 mine was also preventative. It might have lasted forever, it might have exploded the next day. It’s a total unknown and probably the only bad part of these bikes!!
Nice video brother. I changed my rotors at 14000 miles, she has just clocked over 33000 miles and loving it every single day. You haven’t experienced low rpm splutter or anything have you? Im having this issue recently as if bike is running out of fuel and the rpm splutters below 2K. Have looked at forums for FZ1 but were mostly with the carb bikes.
Thanks mate. My pleasure. It’s a relief to know that the problem has been removed, isn’t It! I’ve actually had a bit of a problem with poor fuel delivery and it was the kinked fuel line problem. I fixed it in a video. Check this out: th-cam.com/video/J722YUupM7o/w-d-xo.html
Andy Man Cam It was the bugger fuel line being kinked when dropping the tank down. It was very hard plastic with nearly more than half kink in it. Changed it with flexible fuel hose from halfords and job done. No more splutter 👍🏼👍🏼.. thanks mate, your a life saviour 👌🏼👌🏼 Happy riding 🏍🏍
2015 is a bit of a dodgy one. I think it comes down to the manufacture date. Some 2015‘s will have been manufactured in 2014, but registered the next year. Theoretically, 2015 models should all be good.
this problem was gone years and years ago. All bikes have issues with rotor/stators about the same amount now regardless if its yamaha. Using the wrong oil messes up the epoxies mate thats what its always been.
Thank you for the awesome video! Did you had any other issues with the new replaced rotor? My mechanic told me that this is a designed fault and the issue is reoccurring due to the bad position of the rotor. Thanks much!
the new OEM replacement has a 101 in the middle of code rather than 100 that the old part had. The new one uses a better epoxy and has an inner sheath that completely protects the stator. Your mechanic is talking bollux mate. The problem was only ever the epoxy on the magnets of the rotor. Nothing else.
You, my friend, are a life saver. I may not have had the confidence to tear this apart without this very descriptive and well made video. Thank you!
Thank you kindly Matt. It was a little adventurous for me too, just to delve in! Alls well that ends well eh?! 😉
Just did the swap with your video in the background! Worked perfectly and took less time than I expected! Ordered the rotor from EFS RMSTATOR Europe, in case anyone is looking for one 🙂
The RM part is worse than stock it lasts 2yr. You should have checked the reviews mate as its been known for a while the RM part is a disaster.
@@bigduphusaj162where do u find this info?
I wish i once had teachers/tutors like this hero...bloody norah. A real treat to see and hear! Thanks a lot!
Kind words! Thanks Wilco! I’m very happy to have helped!
I bought my 09 FZ1 about 7 months ago and that's the first thing I did was this upgrade. Takes only a few minutes and it's easy. Best insurance ever.
If I'd known about it, I would have done it a lot sooner too! Thankfully it seems that I was one of the lucky ones!
Did it make any noise before you replaced it. My bottom end is making a sort of gravely noise …🤔😬😒
No, mine was completely silent. The part was even still 100% intact. I just didn’t know for how long!!
@@nickarnold8417thats your clutch brother
Finally installed mine yesterday on my 2011. Was a bit snug coming out, but I really appreciated you pay on putting it back in!
My assembly came apart between our of the old and onto the new, so had to check the ship manual for the order of parts, but you video held me snap it back into the beating in about 1 minute by reaching my fingers to the back and turning one of the rotors to line them up. Thank you.
Very happy to help and glad you got it all back together Greg!
The glue that holds the magnets started to fail on my rotor after 28k km. Luckily I was close to home so only a little bit of scratching happened to the core of the stator which was easily cleaned. I just replaced the rotor with the newer model thanks to you. Amazing video and very confidence inspiring! Thanks for making it!
Very happy to hear that you caught it before things got expensive!
Thankyou for this lovely guide AMC. I've just gone and done the change from the grenade rotor to the newer captive magnet variety. I've used the cereal box cardboard technique to avoid it eating the washer or bearing spacer.
Putting the bike in 6th gear allows you to force the engine round by the back wheel and then get the flywheel jug properly meshing.
Anyway thankyou for your lovely video and keep up the good work I still think the fz1 once this is done is better than the current honda machine you're rocking.
Extraordinary explanation, all do's and don'ts. When I was removing the rotor I was really terrified that parts would fall into the engine case but guess I was lucky. Thanks for the video!
Thanks CK, cheers for watching and glad yours went smoothly!
Found your channel and decided to go with a good deal on an 07 FZ1. Appreciate you taking the time to make these vids and took care of this particular issue this past weekend! Was not prepared for just how much pressure was needed to keep the rotor in place whilst pulling the stator and cover apart! Got lucky as my whole assembly (rotor, gears, spacers, and washer) all pulled out as a piece. Thanks for the e-help! 👍
That’s good news. Both the job being done and nothing going into the block! Happy riding now Doc!
I just bought an 07 FZ1 as well... Needs a little TLC but couldn't pass up on the deal lol and plus parts are really cheap to make it look like a brand new bike. But it has 24k on it and watching this I almost want to change this part out as well lol.... I'm sure mine has the OEM. But I don't want anything to happen to the engine if I'm dumping 1500$ into it on parts and aftermarket stuff, etc.
It’s definitely worth it for peace of mind.
@@codyalcorn8891its over hyped and not that common. Only a couple of hundred bikes between 2004 and 2005 (if its the a 5VY R1) and 2008 models had the same issue again breifly with the non O-ring part. Ive heard people say it grenades the engine yet still to find a 5VY R1 wrecked because of it. It a bike mechanic of 4 decades BTW and kept all the replacement ones which ive just had a look at them all again yesterday. Most are fine and the better epoxy with the slightly differnent shaped magnets. Ohh and stay away from the RM part its worse than the original part, its not even machined correctly and the sheath has been known to touch the staitor magnets the lot. The wiring on it is abysmal too so avoid that junk at all costs. Again, the 5VY R1 is regarded as one of the most reliable bikes ever made so thats how bad this issue really is. Ive only witnessed one failure of it on a 2008 R1 when they did the same mistake again. Its the oil eats the 3M epoxy they use West Systems 105 now on the upgraded part
My fz1 has 59k miles. I never changed this. Want to now
Dude, I have to say a big thanks. I've been having a few troubles with the bike and it turns out the Generator has completely shit it's self !!!!!!
Basic I went for a run on Sunday and the bike died 1 mile from home.
Looked like a dead battery at 9.5v when measured when I got it home.
New battery installed and throws up Code 46.
Checking a few things and see that the battery isn't charging.
Check the Regulator/Rectifier and it seemed to be ok.
Watched your video last night, 31st October.
Came home from work and stripped Generator to discover lots of broken bits.
Lucky for me I got this in time as all the bits are inside the stator/rotor.
Looks like it's going to be expensive in parts!!!!!
Can't complain on a 2007 FZ1 with 85,000km on the clock.
I’m really sorry to hear that this happened to you Marcus, but very happy to have helped you get to the bottom of it! I’m many ways that’s a stroke of luck that all the bits stayed in the generator. Could have been far more expensive!!
Ugh!! @9:36 Felt bad for ya when the magnets on the new rotor pinched your fingers, Andy. You deserve a pint of your favorite beer for that!! Thanks for sharing your rotor replacement video with us; very helpful and informative. Cheers, Bro🍺
I should have known that it was going to happen! My pleasure Viktor, happy to help!
All good, you obviously know what you're doing. My only bit of advice thrown in, is always remember what holes the bolts came out of. Admittedly they all look the same length in this instance, but many a time I've taken covers off and found some bolts longer or shorter than others, or even different thread sizes. Don't just throw them in a heap and hope for the best when replacing.
Thats a very good tip. Cheers Nick. I got lucky this time!
Thank you brother,just completed my '08 ...smooth as silk!
Well done... Researching procedures is so easy... I always enjoy the knowledge and humor.... Torqueing fasteners is so critical... Especially if a sequence is called for... Hope your pinched finger episode didn't demonetize vid.... Thanks again...
Cheers Stephen. My pleasure. I'd take the demonetization in return for still having a finger and not worrying about the bike exploding!
I was watching random videos on the Tube when I saw yours...I ordered the new rotor and replaced as well on my FZ1-N (2011). It’s incredible how a giant motor company like Yamaha didn’t make a public campaign. What can happen if the rotor explode while you drive on the highway? Shame on you Yamaha.
Thanks for sharing man!
Shame indeed. All the money the Yamaha company earns and they just leave their customers in the dark. Man, wth….
they did address it they started fitting the newer part within months of it being known. Its only the very early bikes that had the bad epoxy. On the 5vy R1 it got the better epoxy ones within 6 month and the full new sheathed part within a year. You want to moan about Yamaha when BMW, Ducati, KTM, Aprilia have a bunch of time bombs in them and they dont even bother upgrading the part? i mean the entire s1000rr is a heap of junk and needs everything on it redesigned to last more than 30k miles 😂 I know becaue ive had two and both melted out piston crowns on stock tune with one of them having piston 1 take a tumble in the barrel. That was then refited with a new engine on warranty, my mate bought it from me and the new engine blew up 17k miles later so he insurance jobbed it. Dont even start me on Ducati, my last ducati blew up so bad parts of its engine were in my boots. Yamaha are the best for recalls and upgrades out of ANY motorbike manufacturer and i should know, im a bike mechanic of 4 decades
I just changed it today, it gives me peace of mind knowing it has the updated part.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEOS, THE INFORMATION AND THIS TUTORIAL!
My pleasure Roberto! I hope you have many long and happy miles now!
You deserve a thumbs up for not swearing more when the magnets grabbed the cover back on. made me flinch just watching.
The self control of a tibetan monk. (Mum watches the videos and doesn't like the bad words!!)
Hey buddy, thanks for this video! 🍺 Today I checked the magneto in my FZ8 and your instructions helped me a lot 👌 Have a nice weekend 🔥
Having seen your video, now I encourage myself to do it when my new rotor arrives. Thank you very much for sharing!
Greetings from Argentina!
I can only recommend it! I sleep better now, knowing that I should be good for a while now!
Thanks Andy for the video. I know you’ve moved on but I just love my 2012 FZ1. Changed handlebar position, Yoshi exhaust Woolich tuned, it is so much better than stock - so smooth.
At approx 37000 km, I decided to replace the Rotor. Followed your video, it was the best out there and so accurate 😎. When I pulled the rotor out, the gears, washer and spacer all came out with it so my biggest fear vanished. The old rotor was in perfect condition 🤔 - and I paid $$ for an OEM replacement 😳. Thanks for your help. Love the riding videos but also the garage ones. Keep it safe and thanks for your positive inspiration. If you ever come to Australia, I’d love to shout you a beer and take you for a ride.
No surprise mate, it’s an awesome bike! That’s the real kicker with that rotor. It looks totally fine, until it’s not! Might never go, could explode tomorrow. At least you know that you’re 100% safe now!!
Just wanted to say thanks for the video Andy. My rotor failed on me the other day and shed it magnets 😔
But after watching this video 3 or 4 times and taking notes I've managed to replace mine myself 👍
Cheers Adam. Very happy to have helped. Sorry you had to find out the hard way, but glad you got it sorted mate.
What year bike did you have Adam
Firstly, thank you for this "how to" video. I live in Canada and have a 2007 R1, I decided to proactively change the rotor even though mine looked fine at 22k. I didn't see the need to replace the stator so just did the rotor. I had 3 options, $950.Cnd for OEM, or $250 for the RM or Kimpex (China Made) replacement. I called RM Stator first but they were unfortunately resistant to answer my questions, I found their customer service poor. I ordered a Kimpex brand one which looked exactly the same as RM Stator's. The rotor looked decent but had improper machine tolerances, the spacer didn't fit over the shaft - some people apparently sand it down but I didn't feel comfortable doing this, nor should you need to if machined properly. Additionally, it fit too loosely when seated in the bearing. Returned for OEM. BTW the OEM has updated this part and it does look slightly different than these Chinese knock offs. In a high HP, high RPM engine, I'd buy Japan made OEM... just my opinion. Good luck & stay safe!
RM are the worst ones they last 2yr. Their reputation is abysmal now they never upheld warranties
Bonded (glued) ........ our word is our bond and small deposit secures, thanks for the education and relieved that no small parts disappeared down into the crankcase, cheers Andy!
And bonded magnets are about as reliable as a verbal contract! Cheers for watching Ray!
AMC. I have been without internet access for 6 whole weeks, yours was the first video I watched upon my return, how I missed you you'll never know!
What absolute HELL that must have been for you! :O At least you're finally back and getting your fix! ;D
Hello my friend, just happened the same thing to me, and just have a question do I need to drain the engine oil?
Thank you very much.
i am gonna flush it twice
If you’re worried that parts have fallen into the engine, then definitely yes. And then try to find the bits that you think you are missing, just to be sure that you got it all.
Hi Amc. Thank you for this educational video. Could you please share a link related to where to buy this upgrade rotor from? Many thanks in advance
I bought mine from Motorcycle Spare Parts Europe.
Hello Andy from Australia i just got a 2010 FZ1N and the first thing i bought is this updated rotor i took the cover off to change it and there was already the updated one looking back at me lol thanks to the previous owner but now i have two updated rotors haha
Ha! What are the chances! Still, at least you can either get your money back or sell to another poor FZ1 owner scrabbling sound for the right part!
@@AndyManCam Yes that is true 👍
So that’s 400$ you can spend on something else cool!!
@@AndyManCam I am going to restore her to showroom condition eventually so it will be a long term project the $400 will help
top tip, screw in some thread rods, and slide on the cover.
Great tip, cheers!
Hello from Colorado. Brilliant video my TH-cam FZ1 brother! Complete with finger pinching and all. I appreciate your going the extra mile!
Brilliant idea about holding the rotor through the cover's port while taking it out and putting it in. Like you, the rotor in my '06 has not exploded (yet) and I just got the updated one to install. Your video will help greatly. Hopefully will avoid the pinched finger issue too ;)
Thanks Craig, i do what i can! 😉. Good luck with your swap and enjoy the relaxation afterwards, knowing that your rotor will more likely last the life of the bike!
@@AndyManCam Got her done today, the old rotor was perfect, bearings are perfect, no bleeding involved. A long Phillips screwdriver though the port to hold the rotor in and then holding the cover with my fingertips to avoid your finger pinching episode and it pulled itself together nicely due to the magnets involved. The bike pretty much assembled itself at that step like magic - hehe...
Thanks again my friend!
Great video, really made me feel confident in checking if my 2010 FZ1 had the "grenade".
Luckily it turned out that the previous owner had swapped the rotor for the updated one. SADLY I fudged up whilst taking it all apart and dropped two of the absorbers in the starter clutch, into the crankcase - So now I am praying to God that I can get them out by removing the oil pan, otherwise, I will be devastated.
So... A word of advice to any future viewers: Do as Andy here does, but for the love of anything holy, put a cloth or something over the menacing abyss of the crankcase. I didn't and now I hate myself. Don't be like me, be smart :D
Snatching defeat from the jaws of victory! That’s very annoying, sorry Nikolaj. I hope you got it sorted easily.
@@AndyManCam thanks mate!
It turned into a happy ending. The two absorbers were waiting for me down in the oil pan, so now the bike just needs a coolant and coolant hose replacement, and its ready for the season!
Once again your great video came in handy when I finally came around to refitting the rotor and so on 👍🏼👍🏼
Excellent! Very happy to hear it mate!
AndyManCam lamentablemente es una falla de fabrica que yo no sabia ya que es mi primera moto en 4 cilindros compre una FZ8 y al mes de uso me paso esto, gracias a tu video supo lo que era, te lo agradezco, pero quiero que me saque las dudas, vos sacaste el carter de la moto y cambiaste el aceite, la duda es que si se desparramen los imanes o no se desparraman por el motor, porque al fondo del motor tiene el chumador que envia el aceite al filtro.
That's a real shame. Sorry Luciano. I agree that if the rotor has failed, it's a good idea to take things apart and remove all the pieces. Such a pity that Yamaha did this to it's customers and never attempted to fix it for them.
Thank you for this. I just got an 06 FZ1 from a friend and drove it 30 miles home, then went to get some bread and it died. When searching for charging issues I was alerted to the horrible design of epoxying magnets to the rotor. I opted for the RMStator rotor, stator, and regulator. I have to say it looks bigger on YT. LOL. When I was pulling the rotor out I heard a, tink, as the rotor was coming out. The washer was standing on end in gravity defying fashion. My first thought was to grab my phone and get a picture, but then I came to my senses and grabbed it not wanting to retrieve it from the crankcase. Most of the magnets dislodged and pieces were on the stator. I used a borescope to check around the crankcase for debris an don't see any so I thinks it's good. If I had to do it again I think I would shove a piece of paper/cardboard over the hole in the case to ensure the washer and collar didn't drop in. Overall its not too difficult of a procedure.
How have you found the rm stator, heard mixed reviews
@@jasonward3507just installed a rmstator today. Fitment was tighter than oem, but after a bunch of twisting and pushing it fits nicely. Haven't started the bike up yet
RM breaks faster than the old stock one. They have zero warranty either they make excuses for not upholding warranties. Do not go bear them.
Hi Andy.
It's a tad late now. But for anyone else thinking of doing this upgrade or removing the generator cover from any bike.
A good tip is to get three or four good lengths of threaded rod of the correct thread (200mm - 300mm long).
Screw these pieces of rod into evenly spaced holes before re-fitting the cover. then slide the cover down the rods so when the magnets strength becomes to great and snaps it out of your hands, it snaps down level and doesn't cause any damage to the gasket, coils or your finger ends.
I've done this every time I've had to take a genny cover off and it does work.
That's a GREAT tip! Wish I'd thought of that!
The 4 rods I've always used are 200mm long.
When you have a Suzuki 1250 Bandit, you're always taking the engine covers off to re-paint them.
Haha! Thats annoying! Luckily the paint on the Yam seems to be holding it’s own. I had to use some Sdoc100 paint refresher though cos it went grey. Magic stuff. Paint looks like new again!
What clutch/brake levers do you have?
I think they were V-Trec, both from motea.com 👍🏻
@@AndyManCam ok, they looked a lot like my MZS. I've done a few things over the last few years to my 2012 FZ1. I ordered a replacement rotor that's on it's way now. Preventative, I've had no issues with stock yet.
th-cam.com/play/PLM1U9I2fOqzXYHj4V3tKcV392B_y1E3Cy.html
What the replacement part # for the rotor you installed? What year did they start implementing the new rotor that you had put on?
It’s all in the description Jon 👍🏻
Yes, I read description. But when I look up part # 2SH-81450-00-00. I get OEM YAMHA and RM Statoe and several off brands. Did you buy Yamha OEM.
I bought the part with that part number, so probably yes.
I thought about doing this over the summer on my 04 R1... didn't... a few weeks ago BOOM... rattle noise and power cut off on the bike mid ride... looks like a easier job than I expected, thanks for the video
Bugger. Sorry to hear about that. Hope you got it sorted out ok.
@@AndyManCam I'll be ripping apart next weekend and ordering parts
@@AndyManCam ordered parts this week, should be here today, going to knock it out this weekend and have her back on the road again. Thanks for the video again, most of the vids i've seen are half ass, no info or just cant see, pretty straight forward though.
Watched the video - ordered a rotor but could not get an oem one - took old out (looked fine, however, the new one was def notwhere near as good quality and did not fit - had to put old one back in! Not happey - but good video - thanks.
Sorry to hear that Julian. But yeah, i wouldn’t bother with anything other than an OEM Rotor. Anything else would likely be swapping one possible problem for a new one! Hope you get it figured out mate.
What a brilliant video!! Gave me the confidence to do mine before it went bad and was really easy with your instructions, so massive thanks!!
If the space falls into the front gap... howndo you get it out??? Is there a way to open it up or do I have to fish for it?
Nvm. Fished it out with a magnet on a stick. Got scared
Sorry for the slow reply, but good work!! I'd have suggested exactly the same!
Yep! That´s what happens to my Yamaha FZ8 Fazer 2014 a few weeks ago. I was in Norway near the northcape. 3500km far from home the magnets of the rotor destroyed the stator. Now I have a completely new generator. Thanks to the Yamaha workshop in Alta (Norway).
Sorry to hear that mate. I hope it didn’t ruin the trip too much. At least now you know that it shouldn’t happen again!
@@AndyManCam Everything fine. That was part of the adventure and the repair took only 2 days. ☺️
@dennywenzel6083 Glad to hear it! Great attitude! 🤙🏼
thats just bad luck as the 2014 has the newer one in it.
Hi where did you get your rotor upgrade from. Thanks in advance.
I’m really sorry, i honestly can’t remember and i can’t find any info about it. But i pretty much just googled the part number and went for the cheapest brand new item, from a reputable looking seller.
Very helpful video mate! Now that I've acquired the skill to do it myself at home, I'm confused about choosing the right part. OEM one from Japan or the one from RM Stator?
I personally went with the OEM part, as I knew that the fit and finish would be the best.
@@AndyManCam Thanks for the reply! Me too going with the OEM one
@bharadwajbungab My pleasure. Hope the swap goes well.
@@bharadwajbungabdont go near the RM one its worse. The Yamaha replacememt parts are all fine they use the better epoxy now.
If we want only to to do inspection to the magnets and not replace we don't have to pull out the rotor are we? if we removed only the stator cover the rotor the back washer and the rest stays in place is that correct?
Absolutely right. You can just have a look and check all is well, then bolt her back together! You will need a new gasket though.
Andy Man Cam Many thanks
My pleasure George. Hope you get it sorted.
Andy Man Cam Thanks is for a friend ... I have FJR 1300 iam fine lol
I’ve never seen that job done before Andy. The little tips you provide in making the task easier are helping my less than average, but improving, home servicing skills. Cheers. 👍🏍🇦🇺
Thanks Russell. Happy to be even vaguely helpful!!
Congrats man, loved the video! And the washer "jumping for freedom" right when you realised it was there... lol! Fortunately everything went fine with it!
Ps: little side comment. The generator of my V strom 650 2010 took the fair decision to give up while I was on the highway, driving from Naples to Florence, on a lovely Sunday. It took me a while to realise it was not just a simple battery issue, but at that point I was too far to head back home. Got to Florence charging my battery at every single gas station... and replaced the generator! Cheers man! :)
Cheers Andrea. That was a close call then! Glad you didn't get any damage from the broken electro-whizzer!
Did the job in the last month. Your video and another both say unplug the cable to the bridge rectifier. It's unnecessary. Having a jack stand set to the left of the cover gives one a place to sit the stator/cover with physical support, and the cable helps stabilize it.
I think that I would always rather just disconnect either the battery or the rectifier. If you've accidentally left the ignition on and then short a tool across the coils then it could be an expensive and annoying cock up. Probably not, but for the 20 seconds it took to unplug the rectifier, the peace of mind that 100% NOTHING can go wrong was definitely worth it! On the other side of the coin, the cable seemed like it was more than man enough to support the stator/cover for the few minutes it took to the job.
Best flyweel swapping movie of TH-cam, thanks for the great video
Wow very interesting issue with this bike ! I was considering buying a newer year version of this motorcycle but with these obvious design flaws I will need to continue my search ...
many thanks for shedding light on this important matter !
Yeah it'S a bit of a killer. It's cool that it's fixable, but 400€ for a preventative fix that might not ever be necessary is a large negative for the bike as a whole. After 2015, I think they all had this rotor installed from the factory. But that was the last year!!
Its not that common. It really isnt.
Thank you for the helpful video. I found a new stator from rm stator and has very good reviews for the bike. How would it compare to oem? Money is tight and oem one is 400$ as opposed to the 200$ rmstator
Happy to help Hunter. I'm afraid I couldn't possibly say anything with regard to the aftermarket stator. No experience I'm afraid.
My current predicament as well
@@jhernandez77794 I went oem. To manny hit or moss reviews on the rm stator
When did the new rotor come out ? I have a late 2013 at 17,000kms
I think it was in 2015.
Great video, thank you!
I purchased my 2011 used with 6k miles on it in 2017. I have no idea if the orig owner did this update. It looks like i can just take the screws out and take off the cover to see if it's been updated, replace the seal and reseal it together again?
Hey, thanks Greg! Absolutely yes. You can take a look and just replace the gasket after. 👍🏻
@tiger98011 what happened with your rotor? Did it have the exposed magnets?
My initial one was the oem, with the magnets visible. I replaced it with the rmstator version.
Do we know approximately that the new rotor assy, how much wil last?
So I’m trying to buy a new flywheel but the pictures don’t show the magnets like the original. So what the new ones have it imbedded in the flywheel or what?
Exactly. Thats the point. They’re embedded, so that they can’t fall off.
Nice! Just found out about this issue and thinking of doing the swap you made it look super easy
It is easy, until everything falls into the bike! I'd say put the bike on the side stand, just to give you an advantage for when you'Re pulling it out.
Hello, how are you, I'm asking you if all the fz1 models come with this error or just some. I have a 2011 Yamaha fz1 s.
2005 - 2015 as far as i know.
@@AndyManCam thank you ( muchas gracias)
Happy to help.
is it possible tu replace only rotor? many tnks!
I did change only the rotor. Everything else (except for the gasket) was original.
@@AndyManCam thank you so much, have a nice day!
My pleasure! You too!
Hello, did you drain your oil before doing this?
Thanks!
Nope. No need. Everything is drained into the sump.
Hello, I am a FZ1S knight from Taiwan. I think your movie is great. Thank you
Thanks very much for watching!
Thankyou for your indepth video.Ive changed my rotor ,oem. Sorted .👍
My pleasure. Glad it helped and congrats on your fix! Now you can sleep better at night!
@@AndyManCam hi buddy did you notice a different sound coming from the rotor at all.Everything fitted into place nice gasket an cover no probs .just wondering buddy.
Is that oem rotor or aftermarket? What do you think of the aftermarket rotors?
OEM. I wouldn’t waste your money on aftermarket. I’ve heard many tales about them being of lesser quality than the original dud part.
Dont go near them. Im a bike mechanic the RM ones last 2yr, the openly chinese ones can last 2 days or 2yr. Get the oem one and use recommended oil only, the oil broke the epoxy down this is the issue.
@@bigduphusaj162 i bought the oem rotor, haven't installed it yet
There's a simple easier way to install the casing, us a couple of long thin rods thru casing & into motor mount holes, keep casing away from magnetic zone, this will line it up perfectly onto dowels, keep rotor held in place as u did, casing will self align when magnets take hold ... watch the pinkies lol.
Sounds good. Hopefully I’ll never have to worry about doing it ever again though!
you can just put it on properly and line it up before the magnets grab it and keep your mits out the way. Theres nothing hard about it
Thanks Andy,
I’ve ordered it for my Fz8 now. Most Fz8 owners have reported that it goes bang at around the 30k mark and I’m currently at 27k ,don’t want to test my luck !!
I can fully understand that! I was going to run the clock on mine but caved after hearing about the giving up as little as 15,000 miles in!! 😳. Annoying, but also satisfying to know that it’s a potential problem avoided! Hope your swap goes well mate.
Wow
I'm almost at 14k
Do I need to drain the engine oil before opening up the stator cover?
No. All the oil is well below the level of the stator. There might be a couple of drops, but it won’t come gushing out, don’t worry.
@@AndyManCam thank you!
@@AndyManCamnoticed my bike making whirring sounds recently, especially with prolonged revs or when riding normally. sounds like something is spinning without catching. when in idle or with clutch pulled in, the sound is gone. do you think this is the sign of the rotor needing to be replaced?
@zosin8970 I‘m not so sure. The rotor spins whether the clutch is engaged or not. If it didn’t, the bike would have no electric at idle. Might be worth taking a look at your clutch basket.
@@AndyManCam thanks for some insight, thanks youve earned a subscriber ❤️
How many miles was on it at this time?
About 50,000km i think.
@@AndyManCam Thanks for responding.
Im probably good on mine(4300 miles) but now Im way too paranoid and am just gonna replace it now since its an 06.
Thanks for the vid!
I had mine explode last night and thankfully, I didnt push the bike any further or try to jump start it. If you are lucky and riding around the town and all of a sudden hear a deep noise coming from the engine, then its a sign the rotor is disintegrating and will shred into pieces in no time.
Thankfully, I had purchased an OEM part and had it replaced this afternoon. If its disintegrated or shredded, please remove the crankcase, empty and clean the sump, change the oil and oil filter along with crankcase filter. The remains will keep circulating through your engine and cause more damage if you dont do this.
Sorry to hear that, but glad you got it sorted 👍🏻
What are the top 5 problems on gen2 fz1s i want to buy 1 but dont know what to look out for when buying
I have a 2006 FZ1N, I love the bike but need to do this fix. Can you provide a link for the new Rotor? There are tons out there. Want to make sure I buy a good one.
Hi. Hope your well. I have an 09 fz1 is there an issue with that year please?
Steve
Hi Steve. I'm afraid it seems that every year from 2006 - 2014 has the potential for this rotor problem to rear it's ugly head, as the redesigned rotor wasn'T implemented until the 2015 bike. Might be worth a check.
@@AndyManCam I appreciate the heads up Andy. Many thanks. Any tips on resolving the the snatchy gears? I find mine to be quite clunky if that makes any sense.
Steve
Great video , what rotor did you buy and have you got a link please 👍🏼
The part numbers are in the description. Give them a Google and I’m sure you’ll find somewhere near you.
Please can you tell me the type of rotor you put in Because I want to change it
The part numbers are all in the description.
Good work. Preventative maintenance is always worth it! Particularly with engine components. 👍
I totally agree. Though that shows that we are all finally adults! At 20 yrs old, I would have waited until the bike was in flames at the side of the road before spending money on parts!!
Hi do you know the year for fz1 faxed with new rotor and what year to year will ha e this problem
As far as i know, only the 2015 got the new rotor. Shame, as that was the last year!
@@AndyManCam noted with thank you
My pleasure. Hope you figure it out.
Did you find the booster plug a serious improvement?
In the Versys 650 it was a serious improvement. On the FZ1 it was maybe a 20% improvement. On the CB1000R, more like 10%.
@AndyManCam Thanks for letting me know. I'm installing it on a cb650r. Hopefully I'll see some improvement with its smoothness.
Fingers crossed mate. Annoying that manufacturers still aren’t seeing this dodgy fuelling as priority number one!
Hey brother, I know this video is old and the chance of you replying is low.. but, on the last spacer in the back, the perfectly flat side goes against the bearing and the concaved side goes against the washer on the shaft?
Hi Brian. I’m afraid i honestly couldn’t answer as it was so long ago i can’t remember. Sorry. Check out motorcyclespareparts.eu and search for the FZ1. They have schematic drawings of the parts and might be able to help you.
Last year I had to replaced my stater{becase the fing glue failed on magnets, sure most know about this} on my 2006 FZ1. Well everything went smooth until install.
The stater I bought via internet. Well it had a short cable...had to use only one screw to hold the rectifier.
resulting in small leak that I traced to the electrical boot. any suggestion?
I was thinking of maybe a type of high temp silicon. Should I back out the allen nuts and apply sauce or
just apply on boot? I don't want to fuck up worse...any help would be appreciated?
Also was kind of sealant sauce should I use?
BGShocker
Let's Ride...Fast!!
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Red FZ1 2006 Full Carbon Yoshi pipe, and Air box modify
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See the other reply Brian. Sadly, it's about as useful as this one!
Hey guys, do you have to drop the oil to check the rotor? Cheers
Hi BlueCone. Nope, you can just pull the rotor, with the oil still in the bike. You will need to replace the gasket though.
Good vid dude. I’ll be watching this while performing this rotor swap this weekend.
Many thanks for the helpful video. I'll be tackling this myself during the coming winter months.
My pleasure! Hope your fix goes well.
Sorry one last question, could you tell me which one I need to buy for my 2009 fz1 faired please ?
The same part for all years Steve. Part numbers are in the description. 👍🏻
@@AndyManCam brilliant. Getting an akripovic next week fitted so I think while I'm at it I will go for this also. Again, thanks for your help.
Steve
Hiii mate before you installed you face power loss problem or after replace it is sovled ? Plz anwere mate thanks
Hi! There was no difference in power before or after fitting the new rotor. Just less chance of it exploding!
which year bikes did this affect please?
As far as i am aware, 2006 - 2014. But also possible that some of the early 2015 models are also affected.
What size allen wrench do you need for the first big center cap?
I’m afraid i can’t remember off hand. It was pretty big though! 🤣
@@AndyManCam 10mm! I figured it out haha
Boom! Good work!
Thank you AndyManCam, useful guidance indeed, love the touring vids also, I have an FZ1 S 2010, same genealogy for sure. Great motor. Now swapped out the rotor and could not have done it without watching this vid for tips. If you ever make it over for the IOM TT I’ll stand you a burgher and a pint at the Grandstand beer tent.
Top tip... remember wooden clothes pegs?....Broken in half they make very useful prising wedges for aluminium covers. Also a strip of wood across the alternator before replacing the cover prevents the.... "clap" (fnar-fnar) as the cover goes back on. Still I doubt if you'll do that again.
That's a great tip! Now why didn't I think if that!? Of course, I haven't seen a wooden clothes peg for several years and wouldn't know where to get some!! :D Hopefully I'll never have to go in there again anyway!!
or get proper prying tools
Saw a few videos on the same job. Everyone says there is no need to drain the oil. I opened the first bolt which is a monitoring window or idk and the oil is up to that point. Gonna drain it now and try again.
If that’s true, you’ve got WAY too much oil in your bike! Or it’s just a bit resting in the corner.
I drained it. It was on the top line of the window. Now I am puzzled whether I should change the rotor. Bike is 2013 fz1 but by VIN it appears to be 2011 with some shops when they search for my bike for spare parts. The rotor looks to be the one with the exposed magnets. Looks fine. Idk which models have that issue. I only know that the covered rotor comes from Yamaha in 2014. Some forums say that it affects 200 2009 models. I'm lost.
@giamademedoit As far as I’m aware, ALL bikes before the fix have the potential for the magnets to come loose. Some will, some won’t. It’s a gamble. But if the magnets let go, it’ll likely cost more than the rotor to put right. For me it was too risky, so i did the swap.
Thank you for the quick reply! My question was, if the problem is with 2006-08 models and the fix was in 2014 with the covered magnets, what's the situation with the 2010-13 models like mine? Mine has exposed magnets but could they be with better epoxy?
@giamademedoit They certainly could. But they also could be an old batch. I can’t imagine Yamaha changed anything until they absolutely had to. By then, many later bikes would have already been assembled with the older parts.
I have the 2008 fz1n ABS model, should I be considering this upgrade too? Thanks
I think that for the sake of the 10€ gasket, it might be worth opening her up and having a look. Just read down the comments here and see how many people it's happened to!
well... too late... mine already exploded... what to do from here? do I have to open the engine to make sure that remaining of the rotor were not left inside, or something like that?
Sorry to hear that Alex. Sadly yes, you need to find all the bits. Removing the oil sump first would probably be the best start. If you find all the pieces in there, you’ll be good to go. Assuming you’ve already taken the rotor out. Sometimes all the parts stick together or to the outside of the rotor housing. Good luck!
@@AndyManCam thx Andy for your answer... And would the stator and the regulator need to be replaced?... I've noticed that the stator is a bit damaged but burnt... What do you think?
I’m afraid i honestly couldn’t answer that. I’m afraid it all depends how damaged. If it’s not paint current properly, then it’ll need replacing.
la yamaha fz8 tiene el mismo problema?????
I don't know, sorry.
Where did you get your rotor from and how much?
Links in the description old bean. 👇🏻
So glad you did this, mine failed but was still lucky as it didn’t destroy anything else apart from the bearings.
That is lucky! Though even the bearings is a bit of a pain in the arse!! I'm glad mine were still good!
Yeh the one in the casing was a pain to do.
I really lack the space and tools for bearings in my garage, so I live in constant fear of one failing!!
Andy Man Cam haha I was like that until I moved this year, my only condition to the misses was I wanted a garage, lol
And too bloody right!! I gave up my private garage when we moved nearer the city centre. I’ve still got my garage space, but it’s rubbish sharing with people!! I miss it terribly!!
Hi. Great video.
Do you have the part number for the gasket?
Thanks very much. I’m afraid i don’t have a part number. I just searched for gasket for FZ1. I think mine was from Athena.
What year model was the 'up-dated' rotor used..?
I have a 2012 model. Do I need to up-grade my rotor? I ride pretty aggressively -- including occasional Track Days. And I sure don't want to be 'up in the mountains' and have something come apart!
Bad. I have the 2012 black and white. Stater went bad at 35k miles. Warranty fix for free but I believe they used an old school bad design part.
2012 has old design. Only 2015 has new one from factory
Awesome stuff from Yamaha, Marcelin. Replace a known bad part with another known bad part, purely because they've clearly got thousands of them sitting on shelves!
Im gonna contact yamaha and ask they will ship me the updated part on their tab.
If not,a nice little youtube video will possibly be made about their effort,or lack therof.
Good vid.
Gives me a look for when I do mine
Good luck with that. They’ve been famously rubbish with just leaving people to fix it themselves.
@@AndyManCam Correct you are.
Since no recall was issued,the rep said they couldnt do nothing.
Im going to make a video on it just to add to the list and keep going with this.
Theyll reimburse my 400 and everyone else one day.
I admire your optimism, but it seems that sadly this is the way the manufacturers work! Any excuse to dodge the bill for their own mistakes. They were the same with the frame weld issue on the early FZ1‘s. Honda have just told me that the paint coming off of the engine of my 1 year old bike is completely normal. 🤦🏻♂️
@@AndyManCam Class action here we come!
At the very least, I’ll be shouting about it a bit!
Hello. How big was your millage or km?
About 60,000 km.
@@AndyManCam Thanks for the information. I just own an FZ8 with 23,900km on it. I'm considering a preventative replacement. I often see that rotors are replaced at 40,000km.
@auto-tronicchrisskrzysiek6201 mine was also preventative. It might have lasted forever, it might have exploded the next day. It’s a total unknown and probably the only bad part of these bikes!!
The stator that you used in your fz1 does it work also in the Yamaha fz8 ??
And if it works plz just send me the link of the shop to buy the same one
No idea I’m afraid. Maybe ask in the forums.
Nice video brother. I changed my rotors at 14000 miles, she has just clocked over 33000 miles and loving it every single day. You haven’t experienced low rpm splutter or anything have you? Im having this issue recently as if bike is running out of fuel and the rpm splutters below 2K. Have looked at forums for FZ1 but were mostly with the carb bikes.
Thanks mate. My pleasure. It’s a relief to know that the problem has been removed, isn’t It! I’ve actually had a bit of a problem with poor fuel delivery and it was the kinked fuel line problem. I fixed it in a video. Check this out:
th-cam.com/video/J722YUupM7o/w-d-xo.html
Andy Man Cam Thanks man. Ill look into it tonight after work 👌🏼👌🏼
No worries. I hope that it sorts your problem.
Andy Man Cam It was the bugger fuel line being kinked when dropping the tank down. It was very hard plastic with nearly more than half kink in it. Changed it with flexible fuel hose from halfords and job done. No more splutter 👍🏼👍🏼.. thanks mate, your a life saviour 👌🏼👌🏼 Happy riding 🏍🏍
Do I need to remove the oil before changing it?
What year of fz1 rota would I need to buy to stop this happening to my 2007 fz1 ? Cheers in advance
Yamaha apparently fixed it on the 2015 model.
Do i need to do this on a 2015 model year?
2015 is a bit of a dodgy one. I think it comes down to the manufacture date. Some 2015‘s will have been manufactured in 2014, but registered the next year. Theoretically, 2015 models should all be good.
this problem was gone years and years ago. All bikes have issues with rotor/stators about the same amount now regardless if its yamaha. Using the wrong oil messes up the epoxies mate thats what its always been.
Thank you for the awesome video! Did you had any other issues with the new replaced rotor? My mechanic told me that this is a designed fault and the issue is reoccurring due to the bad position of the rotor. Thanks much!
the new OEM replacement has a 101 in the middle of code rather than 100 that the old part had. The new one uses a better epoxy and has an inner sheath that completely protects the stator. Your mechanic is talking bollux mate. The problem was only ever the epoxy on the magnets of the rotor. Nothing else.