Float Switch Installation

แชร์
ฝัง
  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ธ.ค. 2024
  • DON'T PUT IN ON WRONG !!
    Taking a look at an attic unit with a float safety switch. Easy to wire and install.

ความคิดเห็น • 29

  • @joemc111
    @joemc111 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    First time on your station. Nice video my Air handler is in the garage so no big deal to overflow, but it happened two times. It’s wired to the Yellow so when I test it I can’t tell when it breaks. I am going to change it so it breaks the Red and then when the Fan stops i’ll know it’s open. Also ordered a RED LED 1/4 inch, to hook across the float so the next time the drain clogs up and the float switch opens when I go out to my garage to check that RED LED Light will be lit. I am going to put that LED right next to the float switch.

    • @johnjennings-JJ
      @johnjennings-JJ  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Pretty smart. Hard to miss a glowing red light! It really works when you pop your head into a dark attic too. Thank for watching.

    • @froztout
      @froztout ปีที่แล้ว +1

      So how would you power the red light if the float switch is killing power?

    • @joemc111
      @joemc111 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@froztout it's wired parallel with the switch.

    • @froztout
      @froztout ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@joemc111 Would like to see a picture. I just reinstalled the float switch on my air handler and thought that was a good idea but wasn't sure how to make it happen.
      Update: My float switch is a 3 wire setup. 2-wires for N.C. and 1 wire for N.O. so should be able to wire a light in series to make it work.

    • @joemc111
      @joemc111 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@froztout you wire the LED in parallel with the flow switch.

  • @isewatr5610
    @isewatr5610 2 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Whos stomach at 3:50😂

  • @simmonsjr25
    @simmonsjr25 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome video. Very useful information. Thanks for sharing 👍

  • @doncocorote1
    @doncocorote1 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Best explanation ever thanks!!!

    • @johnjennings-JJ
      @johnjennings-JJ  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I don't know about best ever! But it is mine...Thanks.

  • @dh4971
    @dh4971 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    being that we’re killing power to the low voltage side I’m assuming one side of the switch to power and the other side to common? Great video

    • @johnjennings-JJ
      @johnjennings-JJ  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Not to common. The way i do it is hot side of 24v into one side of switch and then to the red wire(s) going to the thermostat/outdoor unit. Never hot side in and out to common...get a blown fuse or transformer that way!

    • @dh4971
      @dh4971 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@johnjennings-JJ i realized this after i made the comment, thanks!

    • @johnjennings-JJ
      @johnjennings-JJ  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      No worries. I have seen a lot of guys who wired it that way when they start out.

  • @shomeshome480
    @shomeshome480 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    First of all, thank you for the video. I am learning about the air conditioner system to do DIY around the house and came across a difficult one. It looks like float switch on my system attached to the R circuit, which took out power to the entire system (thermostat, furnace, and condenser unit). I cleaned the drain pan, but the float switch was not reset. I still don't have power and the thermostat is blank. I would appreciate it if you could tell me how to reset the float switch and restore power to the system.
    Note: I am referring to the AG1100 float switch.

    • @johnjennings-JJ
      @johnjennings-JJ  6 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Float switch should reset if you got the water out, or at least got enough out. Maybe some trash got it stuck open. Try to push the pull knob down if it is up? Maybe the switch went bad? Not sure from where I am sitting but you could undo the float switch wiring and do a continuity test to ensure it is closed. You might have another issue.

  • @AAtta-3286
    @AAtta-3286 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    John, great video! I just had new furnace an a/c unit installed and want to add the second cutoff switch as you did on the pan since the contractor installed one just on the condensation pipe. One question - I'm using the same switch you did on the bottom pan. It has 3 wires. I understand how you connected 2 of the wires, but what do you do with the 3rd? Is it needed in this type of installation with this being the 2nd overflow switch? Many thanks for your video!

    • @johnjennings-JJ
      @johnjennings-JJ  ปีที่แล้ว

      You don't have to use the 3rd wire, which should be labeled as a Normally Open if using that Aqua Guard. It is so you can wire in some type of alert so that it triggers you to know the float switch tripped. When the float switch opens the switch to break 24v power, it would close the switch to give the alarm at the same time. I only use the Normally Closed portion and keep it simple. You can just put a wire nut on it or one of the crimp on style if you have it just so the wire doesn't possibly touch anything and blow the fuse.

    • @AAtta-3286
      @AAtta-3286 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@johnjennings-JJ Fantastic! Thanks so much for your quick response

  • @gregpuskar8260
    @gregpuskar8260 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    If you break power to the red thermostat power you rely on the float switch while in heating mode.

    • @johnjennings-JJ
      @johnjennings-JJ  2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      True. But if you have a furnace for heat a lot of them use the roll out switches in the 'R' circuit all the time too. Heat and cool modes. I like breaking 'R' because it is a definite "you know something is wrong" way. Thanks for the comment.

    • @Honestandtruth007
      @Honestandtruth007 6 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Haaaahaaaa 😅👍

  • @stevensoslick9773
    @stevensoslick9773 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    3:23 don’t zoom in 😂

  • @alexg0923
    @alexg0923 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for sharing

  • @SerafinGreen-u3c
    @SerafinGreen-u3c ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Please get that wire out of the drain pan lol