The schematics they give you now in 2023 don’t even make sense to me. They could make it so much simpler. Your directions actually make sense and we have the same switch😂
Nice work, have a question, the green wire from the wet switch instead of going to the R on the terminal block, can be wire with the orange wire from the w.s, and the R wire from the tstat all 3 together, thanks
I used this video to install a wet switch at one job, worked perfectly fine. However I just tried this same way with a new job site today with a corr tstat and this did not work properly. Using this method,, the corr tstat would not power on. I called their tech support and was quickly helped by their tech and he said the wetswitch orange wire goes to the board, then you wire nut the green and red to the tstat red. Then the black goes to com and the white is not used. I was super confused by this because your method worked fine the first time I did it. If anyone could let me know that would be awesome. Thank you!
The instructions say to connect the devices red and black to the transformer, and not the control board. I would rather connect to the furnace control board. Is there any issues with connecting the device directly to the control board and not the transformer?
This won't work well for smart thermostats. They just go blank and you lose all your connectivity. They register a power out event, which isn't one and the same as a wet switch event. Correct logic is to break signal just to operating modes that cause wetness (heat and air conditioning, humidifier if there is one). Other modes that the thermostat calls for, such as fan and ERV should continue to be able to operate.
I've had this video for over a year. It's in my course but I thought it was a good time to make it public. These switches frustrate me and when I searched for it on TH-cam the video for it SUCKED!!! lol
My Wet Switch tripped twice in two days, with no water in sight. The A/C also quit blowing cool air. The inside (and outside) fans both work but only blows regular air temp. Is this a coincidence that this happened the same time the Wet Switch tripped (first time in the six years we've been here)? (I changed the capacitor, but that didn't fix it.) Any suggestions? My main question is could a malfunctioning Wet Switch cause the air not to be cool? What if it wasn't wired correctly? Here's how its wired: green+black>blue (from transformer) / red>red (from transformer) / yellow>dark blue / white>capped off. BTW, the thermostat (Honeywell, battery operated apparently) is still on when the Wet Switch trips. (2015 Daiken system)
You can Break the Cooling circuit usually Y comming from T-Stat to Furnace /Air Handler .So cooling wire Y gets wire nutted to Orange or green from Tstat going to Furnace and whatever wire you didn't use orange or green goes to y on furnace , breaking the signal if moisture or leak detected and shuts off the Air Conditioning.
Replying to an old comment here because I'm looking to wire one of these up soon. I think you were asking what happens if the thermostat is battery powered. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that the thermostat basically acts as a switch that will "jumper" R and W in winter (call for heat) and R and Y in summer (call for cooling). If you break R between the thermostat and the control board, then if the wet switch opens due to water, the thermostat cannot physically connect R to anything else at the control board (since R is open). The thermostat can have its own power source, whether it's batteries or a mule, and it won't matter because even though it wants to, it can't connect R back to W or Y at the control board. The signal stops at the wet switch and can't go any farther, so the control board sits there thinking nothing is calling for heating or cooling because neither W or Y (or G, even) can get 24V. I have a zone controller, so I'm hoping that by just breaking R at the control panel, if there's water in the pan, it doesn't matter what any of the thermostats are calling for, the system will simply not start. Another reason to choose R is that we have a condensing furnace, so it's possible to have a water leak in winter too (which has already happened). If you only risk having water in summer due to AC, then you could break Y, and depending on your system, the fan might still work, which might help dry out your air handler (that could be a good thing).
Hi. I was wondering, my wet switch keeps tripping. There is never vidible water or anything. I know moisture can also trip them and this one is in the attic in Florida. However, my other AC unit does not have this issue with the wet switch. Could it be a defective switch or a loose connection inside the machine? Sometimes it is good for days, and sometimes it happens once a day for 3 straight days that I have to come up to reset rhe switch. Its driving me nuts
It doesn’t take much water to trip it. It could have a couple drops getting in there possibly. If any water has been forming or leaking you might see some evidence so I would look for that. You could also move the switch to a different spot as long as it’s still where it would sense water if any becomes present.
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Easiest and best way of explanation and installation ever
Best video explaining how to do this. Always come back here to watch this to refresh my memory!
Same been in my favorites for years
Thank you. This was so simple and direct!
The schematics they give you now in 2023 don’t even make sense to me. They could make it so much simpler. Your directions actually make sense and we have the same switch😂
Their schematic is confusing and if you watch their video on TH-cam it’s just as confusing.
Nice. I like that wet switch reset.
Thanks for the info. Keep them coming 👍
This was not confusing at all. Thanks man
Nice work, have a question, the green wire from the wet switch instead of going to the R on the terminal block, can be wire with the orange wire from the w.s, and the R wire from the tstat all 3 together, thanks
Great explanation 👌
I used this video to install a wet switch at one job, worked perfectly fine. However I just tried this same way with a new job site today with a corr tstat and this did not work properly. Using this method,, the corr tstat would not power on. I called their tech support and was quickly helped by their tech and he said the wetswitch orange wire goes to the board, then you wire nut the green and red to the tstat red. Then the black goes to com and the white is not used. I was super confused by this because your method worked fine the first time I did it. If anyone could let me know that would be awesome. Thank you!
You are right ! That’s the best method on how to do it! I get very confused too
That's cause if you cut your r out your tstat loses power also
The best information ever Greg h.
The instructions say to connect the devices red and black to the transformer, and not the control board. I would rather connect to the furnace control board. Is there any issues with connecting the device directly to the control board and not the transformer?
Very good video, helped me a lot.
Helped me and made money thank you!!!
Glad I could help!
This won't work well for smart thermostats. They just go blank and you lose all your connectivity. They register a power out event, which isn't one and the same as a wet switch event. Correct logic is to break signal just to operating modes that cause wetness (heat and air conditioning, humidifier if there is one). Other modes that the thermostat calls for, such as fan and ERV should continue to be able to operate.
Thank you. Was wiring wrong.
Thank you. Your video was very helpful. You’re right about their schematics😅.
Thank you for simplifying this for me,the schematic on the right hurts my brain.
Mine too!!!! 😂 that’s why I made this video!!!
Thank youuu! Life saving video!
Glad it helped!
You are the best.
Nice video brother. I was supposed to make this video 4 months ago 😂😂
I've had this video for over a year. It's in my course but I thought it was a good time to make it public. These switches frustrate me and when I searched for it on TH-cam the video for it SUCKED!!! lol
That’s funny I still have one sitting my table in the studio to make a video 😂😂
My Wet Switch tripped twice in two days, with no water in sight. The A/C also quit blowing cool air. The inside (and outside) fans both work but only blows regular air temp. Is this a coincidence that this happened the same time the Wet Switch tripped (first time in the six years we've been here)? (I changed the capacitor, but that didn't fix it.) Any suggestions? My main question is could a malfunctioning Wet Switch cause the air not to be cool? What if it wasn't wired correctly? Here's how its wired: green+black>blue (from transformer) / red>red (from transformer) / yellow>dark blue / white>capped off. BTW, the thermostat (Honeywell, battery operated apparently) is still on when the Wet Switch trips. (2015 Daiken system)
can I do that for a hp system too or it's different?
By this way of wiring, you are breaking the R to the thermostat, correct? What if the battery is battery powered?
You can Break the Cooling circuit usually Y comming from T-Stat to Furnace /Air Handler .So cooling wire Y gets wire nutted to Orange or green from Tstat going to Furnace and whatever wire you didn't use orange or green goes to y on furnace , breaking the signal if moisture or leak detected and shuts off the Air Conditioning.
Replying to an old comment here because I'm looking to wire one of these up soon. I think you were asking what happens if the thermostat is battery powered. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that the thermostat basically acts as a switch that will "jumper" R and W in winter (call for heat) and R and Y in summer (call for cooling). If you break R between the thermostat and the control board, then if the wet switch opens due to water, the thermostat cannot physically connect R to anything else at the control board (since R is open). The thermostat can have its own power source, whether it's batteries or a mule, and it won't matter because even though it wants to, it can't connect R back to W or Y at the control board. The signal stops at the wet switch and can't go any farther, so the control board sits there thinking nothing is calling for heating or cooling because neither W or Y (or G, even) can get 24V.
I have a zone controller, so I'm hoping that by just breaking R at the control panel, if there's water in the pan, it doesn't matter what any of the thermostats are calling for, the system will simply not start. Another reason to choose R is that we have a condensing furnace, so it's possible to have a water leak in winter too (which has already happened). If you only risk having water in summer due to AC, then you could break Y, and depending on your system, the fan might still work, which might help dry out your air handler (that could be a good thing).
Hi. I was wondering, my wet switch keeps tripping. There is never vidible water or anything. I know moisture can also trip them and this one is in the attic in Florida. However, my other AC unit does not have this issue with the wet switch. Could it be a defective switch or a loose connection inside the machine? Sometimes it is good for days, and sometimes it happens once a day for 3 straight days that I have to come up to reset rhe switch. Its driving me nuts
It doesn’t take much water to trip it. It could have a couple drops getting in there possibly. If any water has been forming or leaking you might see some evidence so I would look for that. You could also move the switch to a different spot as long as it’s still where it would sense water if any becomes present.
I used this video today 👍
Awesome!
Appreciate it sir.
What does the white (alarm) wire do if connected?
uokwildcat1 nothing unless there’s a remote alarm installed.
THANK YOU
Very nice thank you
A wet switch....Not good for the guy on call...Nice demo on how to wire one up tho. We should make a video on how to remove one at midnight! HAHAHA
Why not good? If on call, it makes it quick to spot, no? Would you rather get called out and have to hunt for the problem?
My company likes breaking the condenser
Wow good iob
The wires in that case need to get cleaned up shit is fucked looking
Horrible explanation and confusing. Appreciate the attempt
Lol literally the only 6 confused people right here