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What you got going on?

You need to find a full 24v! You need to backtrack and find power...if you got 5.5 at the wire nuts outside the you need to check R and C and the air handler connections. If you have it on the air handler end of the wire but not on the heat pump end...may be a wire connection (loose wire nuts, corrosion, etc) or a break in the wire!

@@johnjennings-JJ thank you for the reply. I appreciate the information.

Not too much detail but I am in the Carolinas...had a guy spot me in a Tractor Supply the other day though and had a video pulled up on his phone 🤣 He asked "is this you?" Got me! Just a dude at a Tractor Supply like you.

Thanks. Means a lot.

@@johnjennings-JJ ...good, slow, clear speech and good close-ups of the areas in question.....great job....👍...you're welcome.

Sounds like you got something wired wrong. Have you replaced something lately?

@@johnjennings-JJ The defrost control board was burnt. I replaced that. I labelled each wire before removing the board and replacing it. I guess the outdoor unit defrost control board can be ruled out because the heating happens at the air handler. Secondly, the fuse on the relay board in the inside unit was burnt, I replaced it.

Sorry for the late reply, got caught up at work. The only time I have seen that happen on an electric heat kit and blower motor circuit board was when the fan board was mis-wired on the relay. That was a goodman air handler and all the high voltage wires were basically one terminal off of where they were supposed to be. That being said it might just be a faulty relay on that fan circuit board. Sometimes when things go boom it messes up something else before that fuse catches it! I would be curious to find out what fixes this.

@ Thanks for explanation and please do be sorry :). I have the new fan relay board. I will keep you posted how the repair goes.

That one must be a Demand Defrost board. There are 2 temp sensors (thermistors) tied to the board. OCT is Outdoor Coil Temp, OAT is Outdoor Air Temp. I believe it is a purple wire factory connected to the D terminal and yes it goes to the white wire we typically use to turn on the heat strips in Defrost!

@johnjennings-JJ Thank you!

@johnjennings-JJ Thank you for helpful insight.

Sometimes you can just take a few screws from off of the plate above the burners. Different models vary of course. This was an old COVID video when it all started and they kicked me out of the training room at work. It was the only thing I had when the world shut down. You got a particular model number...might help if you haven't already figured it out.

Same principle but on commercial you will run into different power supply voltages like 460/277V but once you see and understand it you can use it on whatever!

@@johnjennings-JJ thank you,thank you love your videos.

Connection-wise...i believe the purple from the fan goes back to the capacitor where it joins another purple wire the goes back to the L2 side (black wire) of the transformer. You shouldn't have to mess with that L2 side of power for this as the relay will only be installed in the L1 side like you already mentioned.

@ ah, I think maybe that answers my question. The purple wire (common) of my fan connects to the pcb.. I am assuming this is a 120v supply (L2)? Since I’m getting rid of the board all together and you said purple most likely joins L2 anyways, I should hook this purple to L2 right? This way I’m getting the 240v - purple common + relay . Am I correct or am I way off?

Yes. You can go back to the terminal block or the primary side of the transformer had a black wire with a place to add the purple to it. Sounds like you got it though.

Got to keep learning. I think that keeps us alive!

I think the newest version is a PCBDM101S. There were a couple updates since that original board came out but that one should pull up online and be a suitable replacement if I am reading correctly. If you find one from an online supplier just call them and verify.

@ thank you i was cross reference manuals and than I ended up on the Goodman website and they told me the 101s is a replacement 130,133, 101

No idea. If you can send me the model number of the air handler so i can look up the wiring diagram i maybe can help. Unless the black and white wire are both meant for the heat relay...something like a auxiliary and emergency situation.

@ Lennox CBK45UHPT-36-230 And I believe the heat element is ECB45-15CB

So they must be hiding the wiring diagrams with the nuclear codes cause I couldn't find much! But i did notice on most of the other wiring diagrams that Lennox likes to use blue for 24v common. I think both the white and black wires are for heat on that 15kw heat kit you have. Look at where the white wire goes to the heat relay amd i think you'll notice there is a blue wire on the other side of the "coil" (probably a bunch of high voltage black wires going to/from the heat element itself) but the low voltage should be white and blue. I am thinking there might be 2 heat relays and the black wire would go to the second relay and then have the blue wire as the 24v common just like the white wire on the relay does. If you want to take some pics you can send it to me. We can try to make sense of it. Hard to get your head wrapped around something when you can't see it!

If the inducer is coming on and then nothing else seems to happen I would say it is likely something with the pressure switch not closing. Maybe another safety like a roll out switch or high limit?? Not exactly familiar with that particular model. Look for an error code LED that may blink/flash. BUT...if it is a pressure switch that isn't closing then you have to find out why. You could have a serious issue with a hole in the heat exchanger and that is not particularly good. I doubt it would be a bad pressure switch only. Same for a roll out issue, it likely isn't the switch that is bad. It is just doing its job.

Happy New Year to you as well!

Sounds like the 15 kW didn't work good because a 10kW needs a 60 amp breaker, 15kW would need a 90 amp. The new heat pack should fit well with the power supply you described. If you would like to email me at jenningsj@hotmail.com that would be ok but I think you have it under control by the way you just described it! I'll take my email down in a few days just so it isn't out there forever. Have a good New Year.

Sounds right. Power goes in on terminal 2 and 3 and then out on terminal 1 to the blower. This way no matter if you have 24 volts on the 'G' or not the PSC blower should come on.

@ thank you so much sir

Thank you.

Absolutley agree but i knew the guy that was booby trapping my unit. Still maybe good practice to check the pressure/adjustment if it is a brand new one?

Thank you

Yes, you are correct. It powers the load and keeps going to the next one. I have seen some that think that the load (like the primary of the transformer for instance) is power for the blower motor. My point is loads don't power another load. Only power does! But you have to know the flow from the power source.

Thank you sir. Nice to meet you. It is a small world and you never know who you are going to come across! Have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

I think that the UEI clamp has been discontinued. If you try to search and find it it is the UEI CH3. I don't even know if Amazon can get it!

I think you are referring to the carrier type brands...yes. the pure/orange is 24Vac and it doesn't get to be 24Vdc until after that little board that sits on the heat relay. I have done it it before like you are saying when putting in a regular 24Vac sequencer, white to one side and common the the other side. But the plug doesn't fit a normal 1/4 so i cut the purple/orange about 6 inches away from the end and put a male and female terminal in each wire so it is an easy connection if you want to ever put back the original relay you can do it easily.

@ thank you so much. If I may ask another question. I have a wiring diagram where the ecm “speed tap” selection 2 leave in BLUE wire to a Resistor then leave in a GREY wire to the thermostats green wire ( fan). Can you please tell me the purpose of the resistor? There also 24v common fan coil wire going to it as well

I know the air handler and had one at work to look at closer...just don't know why the resistor is there! I am not sure of the resistors value either. We would probably have to call and talk to one of their engineers to get the answer. Sorry.

We all have and learn different ways! Maybe you have some experience now and it just hits different so you get it easier!?

Should be a call on "Y" when using heat or cool. You should have voltage on "W" only when heat strips are needed. I know some thermostats are different but if you have a 2 stage heat pump thermostat it should be like this description. Maybe the thermostat is new and not programmed correctly??

@@johnjennings-JJ Thanks. I'm thinking the problem will be the it's an old thermostat. I should have investigated further but had so many no heating calls after the cold snap I just moved on to the next since the home had heat strips working. My gut is telling me to go back and check to see if the installer wired O to Y at the unit cause the thermostat is just a 1H 1C and the heat pump hasn't worked since it was installed a couple years ago. If that's the case hopefully there's an extra wire at the tstat I can use for O and install a new tstat.

Could be installed in a heat pump. Could just be an all electric heat system.

Thank you