This is a great series. I'm pulling the engine on my 66 in a few weeks and plan on rebuilding it while a frame rail is being replaced. Love how you do it stock.!
Thanks, Alf, My 1976 F100, 302, a month ago after stopping at the shop when I began to drive one mile home it suddenly began popping as if the plug leads had been swapped over, I had been replacing most of the electrical parts and put a carby kit in the carby that was not a problem, I just tried with my Carenter brain again to finger it out, with Number one at tdc, the timing marks on the harmonic balancer were now were to be seen, and when I did get them to tdc the piston was not there so I protected the balance around until they were at TDC but the piston was about halfway up, that's when I found your timing change video , so I'll disassemble the front of the engine and have a look,
Off topic (again). 1- 289 runs perfectly. It will set there and idle all day long. As soon as it's put into gear, it dies. Simple carb adjustment? 2- oil pressure goes up like normal. (About half way up the guage). The longer it runs, the pressure slowly goes down. Normal? Oil pressure sending unit?
1- could be a carb adjustment. What is your engine vacuum readings? What carb are you using? What's the fuel pressure at? 2- very normal for oil pressure to decrease with engine temp increase. The cold oil is thick and thus has a higher pressure reading. As the oil heats up, it thins out. Question is how low is it going?
@@AlfsMustangGarage everything is original on the 289. And I have no clue what any of the readings are. I don't have the tools to test them. That's why I went to the expert......😉 If the oil temp guage was the gas guage.......I would say it was down to 1/8th of a tank when I shut it off. The oil is new. And full. With a new filter.
Ya I think if that were in the shop, the first thing I would be doing is checking the engine vacuum at idle. Pretty inexpensive tool to invest in. You'll use that to dial in the idle air mixture screws on the carburetor too.
I purchased an engine with code D8VE-6015-A3A. In my research it looks like I have an engine made for a 1978 Lincoln. I've heard is vintage of engine has a nylon plastic coated gear and that the teeth can brake off. Are you familiar with this? I'm wondering how far I should go through this engine or what steps I should take to go through this engine to determine if there is anything I should replace before I stick it in my car. Any info would be helpful. Thanks
Hi Alf, I finally got the 289 running in the 65 mustang but im getting a little too much blowby. but i have a 1980 302 bottom end i was thinking of using. my question is can i use the timing cover and water pump from the 289 which is counter clockwise on the 302 so i can use the same radiator?
You know, I'm not 100% sure. I want to say yes but at the end of the day, I would just mock it up and see how it does. Will probably bolt right up but you'll want to make sure your timing chain clears and all that fun stuff. I hope that helps.
Good tutorial. Thank you. 👍👍
You're very welcome
Thanks again for this series. It is greatly appreciated!👍👍👍
You're very welcome
This is a great series. I'm pulling the engine on my 66 in a few weeks and plan on rebuilding it while a frame rail is being replaced. Love how you do it stock.!
Oh awesome thank you!
Alf, Can't wait to see the first fire up.
Same here!
I' just found your app an I've enjoyed learning frm u as much as anyone, tks 4 th help.
You're very welcome!
I didn't know that piece of metal is an oil slinger. I better try to find mine before I put my timing chain cover back on. Thanks for the tip!
You're very welcome.
Thanks, Alf, My 1976 F100, 302, a month ago after stopping at the shop when I began to drive one mile home it suddenly began popping as if the plug leads had been swapped over, I had been replacing most of the electrical parts and put a carby kit in the carby that was not a problem, I just tried with my Carenter brain again to finger it out, with Number one at tdc, the timing marks on the harmonic balancer were now were to be seen, and when I did get them to tdc the piston was not there so I protected the balance around until they were at TDC but the piston was about halfway up, that's when I found your timing change video , so I'll disassemble the front of the engine and have a look,
Im almost at this step. When i do get there, im copying this to the T.
Very cool. Did you invest in the book to further help you?
Off topic (again).
1- 289 runs perfectly. It will set there and idle all day long. As soon as it's put into gear, it dies. Simple carb adjustment?
2- oil pressure goes up like normal. (About half way up the guage). The longer it runs, the pressure slowly goes down. Normal? Oil pressure sending unit?
1- could be a carb adjustment. What is your engine vacuum readings? What carb are you using? What's the fuel pressure at?
2- very normal for oil pressure to decrease with engine temp increase. The cold oil is thick and thus has a higher pressure reading. As the oil heats up, it thins out. Question is how low is it going?
@@AlfsMustangGarage everything is original on the 289. And I have no clue what any of the readings are. I don't have the tools to test them. That's why I went to the expert......😉
If the oil temp guage was the gas guage.......I would say it was down to 1/8th of a tank when I shut it off. The oil is new. And full. With a new filter.
Oh ya thanks, I definitely don't know everything. I usually rely on my tools to take readings and tests and things like that to diagnose.
@Alf's Mustang Garage its hard to diagnose in person. Little lone on line. I get it. I was just wanting pointed in the right direction.
Ya I think if that were in the shop, the first thing I would be doing is checking the engine vacuum at idle. Pretty inexpensive tool to invest in. You'll use that to dial in the idle air mixture screws on the carburetor too.
I purchased an engine with code D8VE-6015-A3A. In my research it looks like I have an engine made for a 1978 Lincoln. I've heard is vintage of engine has a nylon plastic coated gear and that the teeth can brake off. Are you familiar with this? I'm wondering how far I should go through this engine or what steps I should take to go through this engine to determine if there is anything I should replace before I stick it in my car. Any info would be helpful. Thanks
Hello, please tell me a Ford Mustang GT 500 with a volume of 7 liters, the engine gets very hot up to 110c, what could be the reason?
Great stuff!
Thank you
Good stuff & thx😎👍
You're very welcome
Hi Alf, I finally got the 289 running in the 65 mustang but im getting a little too much blowby. but i have a 1980 302 bottom end i was thinking of using. my question is can i use the timing cover and water pump from the 289 which is counter clockwise on the 302 so i can use the same radiator?
You know, I'm not 100% sure. I want to say yes but at the end of the day, I would just mock it up and see how it does. Will probably bolt right up but you'll want to make sure your timing chain clears and all that fun stuff. I hope that helps.
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🙏🙏🙏🙏
Always clear, patient, and calm. Can’t tell you how helpful your videos always are, Alf. Is the process the same for an i6 ?
Thank you. The process is very similar.