ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.ค. 2024
- Four vintage Macintosh Analog Boards (US versions) compared and 1 recapped. Also shows bad Flyback voltage arcing, case opening, proper CRT discharge, Analog Board removal, voltage measurements, and screen adjustments post-recap.
⚠️ DISCLAIMER! A recap won't fix all problems on the Mac Plus and older Macs. Your flyback could be bad, or the voltage level might be wrong, or one or more regulators could be bad, or something else. Scroll down to TECHNICAL INFO and access the Larry Pina book I linked for you (on Internet Archive).
🔎 INDEX
0:00 - Intro
0:29 - Removing the Case
1:04 - Discharging the CRT
1:57 - Analog Board Removal
2:44 - Analog Board Variations
13:53 - Main Wire Harness Thickness
15:40 - Bad Flyback Transformer
17:46 - Pre-Recap Voltage Check
19:26 - Recapping
44:24 - Applying Hot Glue
47:26 - Flux Removal
48:45 - Reassembly
50:35 - Adjustments
1:02:20 - Closing Words
🛒 CAPACITORS (US version analog boards only!):
• Mouser Cart (includes the 3 RIFA boxes): bit.ly/3aybDrH
• Location of all electrolytics: bit.ly/3drqFkk
• Replacement 4-slot "J1" connector pair (add the following to your Cart above if needed):
Female Housing (mounts on Analog Board): bit.ly/3blRW6M
Male Housing: bit.ly/2w0DXTC
NOTE: Product photo on Mouser is wrong but Description correctly says "4 Positions."
🛠 TOOLS:
• Torx T15 with LONG neck to open case: amzn.to/3qLyJYb
• Bulldog Clip (helpful to pry off back case): amzn.to/2H7lIhF
• Flat-head (-) Screwdriver (for CRT discharging)
• Steel Wool No.0000: amzn.to/2J1aRXz
• Needle Nose Pliers: amzn.to/2U9Kc0M
• Wire Nippers 4.5": amzn.to/2J4Wkdk
• Wire with alligator clips at both ends (for CRT discharging)
• 99% ISO Alcohol (Spray Bottle!): amzn.to/3ae4fG6
• 99% ISO Alcohol: amzn.to/3NoFkxN
• 99% ISO Alcohol: amzn.to/2YsK8v3
💁♂️3 alcohol choices because it's often out of stock. 70% will work, 91% is better, but 99% is best for electronics cleaning.
• Soldering iron with °F-only LCD & Solder Kit (80W, cheap!): amzn.to/36BYi0K
or
• Soldering Station (120W, ESD safe): amzn.to/30g1Frt
• Solder (Leaded Rosin Core 1.6mm): amzn.to/3IGuxxm
• Desoldering wick: amzn.to/3iMAnA5
💁♂️TIP: Set soldering iron temperature to 350°C. Don't use lead-free solder.
• Plastic TV alignment tools (Amazon US): amzn.to/2Scykul
Alignment tools are for making CRT adjustments on the white-covered side of the analog board. NEVER use a metal tool for this! NEVER use a mostly plastic tool that has tiny metal tips either! It must be ALL PLASTIC! (The tip of a wire-tie might work.)
• Voltmeter (Cheap!): amzn.to/2H1S7Ge
• Hot-Glue Gun & sticks: amzn.to/39hBfav
• Heat gun to melt hot glue: amzn.to/3a4WWLQ
• DE-5000 Handheld LCR Meter: amzn.to/2ScttJz
💁♂️The best handheld meter to check capacitor ESR. Comes with all 3 accessories: TL-21, TL-22 & TL-23.
🔋 PRAM Battery: amzn.to/2IB4VHI
💵 Your price on Amazon (US) is the same even if you don't click the "amzn.to" Affiliate links above, but if you do kindly click & purchase within 24 hours, Amazon may pay me a small commission.
💾 SOFTWARE:
Test Pattern Generator (TPG) by Larry Pina: bit.ly/2QSdnDO
NOTE: I assembled and uploaded the two DSK images you'll find on Macintosh Garden, thanks to Jeff Walther (Trag) providing me with the original files. However, I couldn't get Macintalk to work in the app for some reason. Post a Comment if you can.
📕 TECHNICAL INFO:
• Analog Board Schematic: bit.ly/39ap2Ei
• Analog Board Parts Spreadsheet (3 sheets): bit.ly/3diHUUG
• Mac 128k-512ke Service Manual: bit.ly/2wiiSVn
• Mac Plus Service Manual: bit.ly/2vIo0lg
• Classic Mac Repair Notes: bit.ly/35wrPsQ
• Macintosh Repair & Upgrade Secrets book by Larry Pina: bit.ly/2WtzaFv
🗣️ 68kMLA Compact Mac Forum: bit.ly/2u06Mew
🗣️ Vintage Apple Macintosh Enthusiasts FB Group: bit.ly/2NTF5Ny
⚡EEVblog discussion on repair of Flyback transformers: bit.ly/2wbkdNk
🎥 My SE & SE/30 Analog Board Video: • Macintosh SE & SE/30 A...
💰SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL
www.paypal.me/supportJDW
📺 SUBSCRIBE:
th-cam.com/users/JDW11?sub_c...
#BadFlyback #Apple #Macintosh #JDW
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🙏 Special Thanks to Crutch, Byrd, Bolle & Kaa (68kMLA) for help getting the audio visualizer waveform to work in Player Pro 4.5: bit.ly/2xszmKB
┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄
🎵 Honey Bee by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
Artist: incompetech.com/ - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![Logic board & Keyboard Tantalum RECAP [Macintosh 128k, 512k & Plus]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vz2NGF5Vuao/mqdefault.jpg)
![[UNCUT] “เชื่อมจิต” ใกล้จนมุม อนันต์ชัยเปิดตัวละครลับ เตรียมล้างบาง I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ l 2 ก.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jeOwG0vt114/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you very much for the video, and the resources in the description. I am about to get started on my first Macintosh Plus and this video is truly amazing!
thanks for this and for taking the time to share the list of capacitors!
I skimmed through because it's rather later but I can't wait to watch this even though I don't own this machine. The level of detail and knowledge offered in your videos is astounding.
Thank you, Alex!
Thanks for these videos. I'm currently restoring some 128k/512k(e)/plus computers and these videos are very helpful. You go over a lot and are very detailed. You seem to take the time to try to think of things that a newbie might stumble over.
Thank you for your kind words, Patrick. Please let me know how your restorations go!
Great video , and very useful spreadsheet. I have the 240V/ International board, and got the flup flup flup. And now its back up and running after replacing CR21 + recap.
Great video, full of interesting details and diagnostics tips. Thanks!
Thank you for watching and for your kind comment, Gonçalo!
Great video. Consider me a new follower. Really in-depth walkthrough and big time quality video.
Thank you for your kind words, Philipp. You can be a full-fledged Authorized Follower via this link: th-cam.com/users/JDW11?sub_c...
:-) By the way, if you have an SE or SE/30, I have an Analog Board recap video on that here: th-cam.com/video/zr_Q4bGI_qY/w-d-xo.html
Excellent video! Thanks
Thank you so much for adding in as much detail as you have, it really helps with trying to follow along and doing it yourself. I think the label on your first board at 5:06 says "8707"
If indeed that marking does mean July 1987, then something must’ve been replaced on the analog board. However, as you can see from my video, the flyback is the stock old type, and most of the capacitors look like the original caps as well. So I’m guessing there must’ve been a bad solid-state component on the board that was replaced and the marking simply indicates the date of that replacement.
You are a hero! Thanks so mutch!
I learned something new today! Hot glue can be re-heated to make it liquid again! Go figure! I always thought that once it was set, it was set! Thanks, @JDW!!
Thank you so much for this very educational video. It could not have come at a better time. My analogue board of my m0001 litteraly stopped working on me today just as I had repaired the 400k floppy... let's hope I can fix it tomorrow or at least order the parts. Greetings from Sydney
Thank you for your kind words. What kind of repair did you do on your 400K floppy drive? I’m curious because I’m actually in the middle of filming another 400K floppy drive video right now. I previously did a lubrication repair video for those drives, but my forthcoming video will be about recapping.
@@JDW- basically the problem was the grease got stuck so that was straight forward, but than than the head didn t move correctly either, as I think you actually mention in your video. So I pushed it around a bit and put some silicon grease spray on it (can't to the thick grease here in Sydney) and it works. Did also fix the 400 floppy side car that is a bit different. The little pin there was the problematic to get loose
Thanks, this video has been a great help as I go through the process of recapping my Macintosh Plus analog board. Though I have the International version, on which some of the caps are of very different specs to what's on your list. Luckily I bought local, and can easily exchange the caps that I can't use, for the ones I need to complete this part of the project. Hopefully this fixes the "flupping" noise my machine makes. Found a couple of references to this on the net, but nothing that actually got to the root of the problem in a way that I can understand (this is my first attempt at this sort of electronics repair)
Thank you for your kind words. The problem is most likely on the Analog/Power Supply board, and recapping is the first important step. If you continue to hear the flup flup sound, make sure your cabling is good with all connectors seated well into their connectors. Check the solder side of the analog board with a magnifying glass for cracked solder joints where the connectors are located. If there are any connectors brown or black, they have been burned and at the very least you will need to resolver all the pins of those connectors. Really bad connectors that are literally breaking apart will need to be replaced. If all of that doesn't help, search the following PDF for the keyword "flup" and you will see some other components on the Analog board that can be the cause: cdn.hackaday.io/files/1681007191990400/The_Dead_Mac_Scrolls_1992-1.pdf
Components other than the capacitors going bad on a Plus analog board is very common. Feel free to write back with a follow-up to let me know how your recapping and troubleshooting job is going.
Thanks for the video! I successfully discharged the CRT and removed the old capacitors from the analogue board. I have the international version, so will make a shopping list from what was removed.
If you do make a complete Mouser Cart for the Int'l Version, just post the link and I can add that to the text description. By the way, you can see a complete list of parts for the International version Analog Board on page 335 here: archive.org/details/mac_Macintosh_Repair_Upgrade_Secrets_1990/page/n345/mode/2up
@@JDW- Once it has arrived and installed and working I will share the link. I am new to all this, so there's a chance I've buggered up the order.
Another great video. I'm also 49 and can remember wanting to upgrade my Apple // to one of these but it was only a dream as the price here in Australia was way out of reach!
Being only 13 in 1984, I of course was unable to afford a Mac of any kind, but my father was given the choice between a cash bonus or the 128K with ImageWriter I early that year, and thankfully he choice the latter. I've been a Mac guy ever since. The machine I truly lusted after in the 80's was the SE/30. It was a true dream machine, not just in terms of specs, but a dream in that hardly anyone could afford one! Thankfully, we can buy them now, at rather respectable prices! The only downside is that these old machines require recapping. It takes some effort, but it's worth it.
Thanks, nice and detailed video. I see some effort was put into it! Otherwise I can tell you that I never saw a bad electrolytic capacitor on any of 128K-Plus era Macs, even on those boards that were used a lot. Except the C1 that goes bad.
The RIFA (box shaped) capacitors too go bad, exploding with a black goo often times. You won't notice leakage of the other caps though since they lay on their side, not up-down. But that doesn't mean those caps are good after 30+ years. It just means no sign of leakage.
Rifas of course do go bad, they are just paper capacitors. I replace them with ceramic (Y caps) and PP X type caps. Otherwise, I fully recapped an analog board once, since it was one for a computer museum and all of the caps I took off were perfect (no leakage, no electrical leakage, very low ESR, spot on capacitance) ;)
@@michvod If you don't mind my asking, why did you recap it if it will merely sit under glass unused?
@@JDW- Sure, It is being actively used, since it went to a "live" museum, where most of the computers can be turned on and used. It sees about 3-4 hours of use per week, so not that much.They even have old 1970s/80s terminals connected to network and one can list the inventory of all the devices and stuff present in museum.
I can tell you that I've just recapped two Plus boards with leaking electrolytic capacitors
Amazing video. My 128k (6th week of 1984) just failed. Have suspicions that it is the flyback, but going to recap first since it needs to be done anyway. The detail in this video is amazing, thank you so much!
Mine just failed as well, must be the virus
If you think the root problem is the flyback, you need only test it in a dark room like I did. Keep your machine on long enough so your eyes adjust to the dark because any light coming from the flyback is very faint and difficult to see. With the lights on, put your nose above the flyback with the machine turned on and see if you can smell Ozone, which I can only describe as something cool and refreshing and a bit different from the norm. It’s not a burning or smoky smell though. Also, if the yellow glue on the flyback has turned brown, that’s often a telltale sign the flyback may be bad.
@@JDW- Thanks for the tips! Unfortunately my board was already disassembled by the time I stumbled upon the video, so I didn't want to reassemble to test the flyback, only to have to disassemble to do the caps anyway. Any chance you have an email I can send you a few questions and a pic of the board?
Mine doesn't seem to have any yellow glue on the flyback, only clear stuff. Also there's red sharpie on the tops of a lot of my caps. Was that something the factory did? Or is it possible that they were checked/replaced in the 90s?
Chris, I don’t mind giving you my email address, but if I post it here I no doubt will get a flood of unwanted spam. Probably the best option at this point would be for you to take those photos and upload them to dropbox, and then share the link here in the comments. You could even use iCloud photo sharing. Another option is Flickr.
@@JDW- Here's the pics! Thanks for the help! Included my serial number in case you're interested too. drive.google.com/open?id=1ucwR77q8DWELek97NXg--uvKY-rMY7KG
Wonderful video! I wanted to note that you can also use rubbing alcohol to break the hot glue bonds and you can peel it easily without heat 😀 @JDW do you know where or if you can purchase replacement battery compartments for these machines? Mine is horribly corroded!
I don't know the answer to that, but Stephen Arsenault might because he designs a lot of 3D printable models, and even has recreated the battery door: www.shapeways.com/product/Y88FJ8Q27/apple-mac-plus-battery-cover
You can start a new thread at Tinker Different in the following forum and tag him by using @stephen so that he will be sure to spot your post: tinkerdifferent.com/forums/compact-macs.34/
Just awesome made documentation on this topic :D I really should do the same too (in german language)
great video - and I'm just curious about what the point is to test capacitors if even old bad ones won't give a bad reading?
It satisfies my scientific curiosity. Sometimes there are caps that do test bad. And in those cases, I take not of their physical condition. Usually those have a bulging top, or show signs of significant leaked fluid at their base.
Great video. I have a 128K + and my RIFA PME 271M CRD 0.1 uF 250V capacitor smoked out. I believe the Mouser replacement in the link for this is 80-PME271M610MR30. This part shows 275V in the Mouser description. Is it OK that my old capacitor shows 250V, and replacement indicates 275 V ? Thanks, great stuff.
275V is perfectly fine. And such is true when replacing other lower voltage capacitors too. Going to a higher voltage spec is fine, as it just shows it can handle even more voltage, if necessary, without harming the capacitor.
@JDW have you ever experienced a bad speaker? I had one analog board which did not make sound out of the speaker, but sound could be heard out of the headphone connector. I tested the speaker by tapping ohmmeter leads on its terminals and heard clicking sounds from the speaker, so I thought it was okay. I checked and re-soldered all suspect joints on the analog board and it still didn't work. Finally I resorted to connecting a known good speaker to the board instead of the one mounted on it, and that worked just fine, so I concluded it must be the speaker that was mounted on the board. Swapped it with one from another analog board and now it's 100%. But then I tested the speaker that didn't work and it worked with a different audio source, so I have a feeling either it's intermittent or it's actually okay but something else (like the black wires from the board to the speaker) had been the issue. And I can imagine it must be very rare for a little speaker to stop working. Oh, and if you _have_ experienced one going bad, do you know of a place to buy a replacement speaker of the same size? Thanks, James!
Hi, Ken. I've not had a bad speaker in 128k~Plus machines. I would suspect the black speaker wires too, but if those wires work fine with your replacement speaker, then perhaps the wires are fine. However, it could be the wires are old and showing higher resistance. You see, the stock speaker is 63Ω. Mostt likely you used an 8Ω replacement. I've done that on my SE/30 when I did the MacEffects case swap. The sound isn't quite as loud with the 8Ω because the circuitry is designed to work with 63Ω speakers. If the problem is with the wires being old and higher resistance, then an 8Ω speaker might actually work fine in that case since the audio circuit wants to see 63Ω, not 8Ω. More than buying a replacement speaker of the same physical size, getting one that is 63Ω is important. Sadly, they don't make those anymore.
Thx, very helpful video. No concern with hot glue melting later? Some recommend Neutral Cure Silicone Sealer instead. Wondering your opinion?
You can use silicone if you like, but there is absolutely no concern whatsoever about the heat of the Mac causing the hot glue to melt.
@@JDW- Thank you. I appreciate your point of view.
Hi, Thank you for such a thorough and informative video! I had a question: I have a 512ke and a Mac Plus, will the mouser cart link contain the capacitors to recap either of them? I know I'll have to double the cart but are the caps the same across the two systems? Thank you very much.
Yes. When I wrote "128K ~ Plus" in the video title, it is intended to mean 128K, 512K, 512Ke & Plus because all 4 share the same analog board with differences being things other than the capacitors you need to replace.
However, it is critically important to note in the text description I wrote "US versions" because back in those days, the power supply was not universal. Other versions were made to run on 220VAC in various parts of Europe, and while many capacitors on those models are the same, some are different. Those 220VAC versions are not shown in my video, and if you have one of those models, you should review Larry Pina's book which has an Appendix "D" that covers capacitors for that model Analog Board: vintageapple.org/macbooks/pdf/Macintosh_Repair_&_Upgrade_Secrets_1990.pdf
@@JDW- Thank you very much for the reply! I have US models and will be recapping them in the near future, and working to restore my 512ke's floppy drive to working order again with your tutorials. Thank you so much for providing such thorough and detailed tutorials and info!
Isopropal alcohol causes most hot glues to release, even in small amounts because it causes a chain reaction that shrinks it. It might be worth trying that in a safe quantity to see if it works on this glue as well. I use it a lot in electronics repair, and I haven't run into one it doesn't work on.
Thank you for the tip. I usually spray the solder side of my boards with alcohol using a spray bottle so I can clean off the flux. Sometimes a little of that alcohol gets on the component side of the board. I've never had the hot-glue come off. However, the amount of alcohol that reaches the component side is always very small, so maybe that is the reason. Even so, your tip is a good one. I will try that in the future. Adding a tiny amount of ISO alcohol to dislodge the glue would be easier than forcibly twisting off the existing hot glue with needle-nose pliers, and much better than melting it with a heat gun.
@@JDW- Hope it works out. It works on all modern hot glues, but as recipes change over the years I'm not too sure. I'll be testing it on a Mac Plus that should be arriving in a few days as well, so I'll find out if it works then.
At the very least, it shouldn't hurt anything.
Update: I've tried it on an isolated area on the Macintosh Plus I'm re-capping, and it definitely does not work on this hot glue.
Shame, would have been so much easier if it had.
An even MORE anticlimactic thing is that the Mac Plus has been recapped in the past 5 years from the look of it, and literally just had one single dry solder joint to make it work.
@@isstvan82 Recapping a Plus board (motherboard or otherwise) is a thru-hole job, so the fact you found a dry solder joint is worrisome. I would suggest you inspect all solder joints of at least the electrolytic capacitors, but also check the connectors as well. I can understand a dry solder joint on a hand-soldered SMD component, but there's no excuse for large thru-hole components like found in a Plus!
you should probably do a video on converting the analog board between 120v and 220v operation (so you can convert a model with a model number ending with P to 120v or one not ending with P to 220v so you don't need a transformer)
Here in Japan, wall socket power is 100 VAC. I really would need 220V in order to effectively test a conversion like that.
About the screen size, official service manual (so called Service Source) says to adjust your screen width to 7 inches (177.8 mm) wide, and height to 4.7 inches (119.4 mm) high. Larry Pina suggests 7.11x4.75 display. So which is right? I guess not much of a difference
So long as you can open a graphics program, hold down the shift key, and draw a perfect square, and so long as the visible area is not to the very outer edges of the CRT, it really doesn’t matter.
Thanks for your great video! Could you tell me the manufacturer code of the two Y-class capacitors in sockets C33 and C36 of the Mac 512k 1986 analog board?
If you scroll up and look beneath my video, on a Desktop computer you will see "SHOW MORE." Click that to expand the text description. Scroll down to the "CAPACITORS" section and click the link "Mouser Cart" link, which will show you all the capacitors, include C33 & C36. You can see manufacturer part numbers, datasheets, etc.on Mouser.
@@JDW- Thank you for your very fast reply, you are very kind! I found them on MOUSER ELECTRONICS, with manufacturer code KEMET C971U472MVWDBA7317. I have a 1986 Mac PLUS that still has the film foil capacitors on sockets C33 and C36 with the inscription “4700pF Y 250V”, exactly like those on the analog card “630-0102-E” described by you for the Mac 512k; Question: do you think the new ceramic capacitors C971U472MVWDBA7317 are equally good, even if they have an operating voltage of 400V, instead of 300V as described on column C (board “2630-0102-E) in your “Mac plus spreadsheet analog replacement parts"? Many thanks in advance, Francesco
@@francorestuccia1 Any "safety" capacitor rated for 250V and higher will work just fine. There's nothing wrong with using 300V or 400V in this application. I hope this helps!
Hi J., what do you use instead of a flat screwdriver to open the case (plates ?) ? It is for use on on other machines, thank you. Loïc.
I put that “tool“ in the text description, but here it is again: Bulldog Clip (helpful to pry off back case): amzn.to/2H7lIhF
@@JDW- Thanks a lot J.
Hi James - would you mind taking a look at your Mouser link for the J1 connector? It doesn't look like the one in the video. Thanks - as always!! Fred
Fred, as mentioned in the text description where I show that Mouser link to the J1 replacement connector, I also say this:
NOTE: Product photo on Mouser is wrong but Description correctly says "4 Positions."
It annoys me to death that Mouser doesn't fix their graphics. But rest assured it is the correct "4 position" connector.
@@JDW- Oh no! I am so sorry to have doubted you, James! I'm going back through your videos trying to gather courage to do my first recap and didn't look closely!! Once again, thank you! Take care, Fred
@@JDW- Yet another thing I have learned through you, James! I looked more closely at the Mouser page and they have this "Images are for reference only
See Product Specifications" and yes, it properly describes it! I also searched the Molex part number and everything came up with the proper connector! Shame on Mouser LOL!! Seriously, this is good education about this area and for me to pay more attention. I hope you know how much I appreciate you as a guide!
@@Fred_Raimer Shame on Mouser for also not keeping many of their parts in stock. Seems like I can swap out a backordered part and the very next day my replacement goes out of stock. It's an endless job, really. That's why these days, I don't bother to check my Mouser Carts until someone comments and tells me the part is no longer available. Then I will trying to find a suitable replacement so they can place and order. I'm happy to help people who have such needs because I myself need a lot of help. Do unto others as you would have them do unto you is my way of thinking. Feel free to write a comment or ask me anytime, Fred. I'm here to help.
Thanks for this great video! I've just restored a nice 512k, analog board, all electrolitics have been replaced. Every thing works nicely, the only thing I noted is the coil L2 (the one at 11:11) that become very hot, about 80 °C. Is this temperature normal or there is something I have to check?
To be honest, I have never measured. I will need to open my Mac 512 and do testing to know what temperature mine reaches, but I don't believe it to be as to as 80°C. How did you even notice yours was hot in the first place? Did you run your Mac for a while and then turn it off and touch the coil by accident? Also, with what tool did you measure the 80°C temperature?
@@JDW- Thanks for your answer James! No need to open it, just turn the mac on, after half hour touch the top left grid by hand. In my case it's much more hotter than any other part. So I reopen it and measured it with a thermal probe of my multimeter directly touching the coil. Unfortunately I don't know how it was before recap because the mac was dead. Seems a lot of current is flowing in this coil, but maybe is normal because we are in the flyback area.
I know that left vent section above the analog board gets hot because there is no fan inside the 512K. It gets uncomfortably hot. I also know that the heat from all the components lower down on the board rises up, which in turn will heat the components at the top even more. It's just that I've never measured the heat of that particular coil before, which is why I cannot say precisely how hot my coil gets unless I open the Mac to measure it (after the Mac has been switched on for at least 30 minutes). The ambient temperature of your room would also have a big impact on the heat generated too.
@@JDW- I agree with you, I think it's normal in such machines, so I'm going to leave it as is. Thanks!
@@deepgreensea66 My advice is to just keep your room cool and comfortable for you, and then your Mac will be happy (when it has been recapped). In the summer months, if you don't have the A/C on, then point a floor fan at your Mac will help with his convection cooling. Keeping the parts cool helps to extend their life. But that coil is quite durable. It's mainly the electrolytic capacitors that are most impacted by the heat over time. They eventually will need to be replaced again 20 years from now. Now start enjoying that Mac512! Merry Christmas!
@JDW I am currently restoring a Macintosh Plus. I am a little worry about it's flyback converter. Its glue has the same brown color of the bad one you have shown in your video. However, I have test it in the dark as you adviced and I have not seen any arcing and I don't smell anything suspect. The display seems pretty correct. Do you think my flyback can be ok despite of this brown glue ? Does the dirt can explain this color ? Indeed, I have just bought this computer and to be honest it's really really need a big clean up.
Since you tested it in the dark and confirmed there is no Ozone smell, and since you also confirmed the display looks fine, the brown colored glue is nothing to worry about in you case. It is often a sign of trouble, but not always. So relax and enjoy that computer!
@@JDW- Thank you for your answer ! This analog board will be recapped soon.
@JDW I have continued the restoration work on my Macintosh Plus. The analog board was fully recapped. I have also swapped my burned crt and my flyback converter with other ones issued from a Macintosh SE with a dead logic board due to a battery leak. The display is now too bright even after adjusting the cut-off and the brightness. The post recap voltages measurement is perfect. I suppose that my problem could be resolved by the add of a resistor somewhere on the analog board. However, I don't know in which point of the circuit I can add this resistor. Could you give me some advices ?
@@n3rd193 No brightness change "at all" when varying the front brightness knob or the analog board cut-off? That is very odd. R53 is the POT that controls brightness show at 55:54 in my video. I wonder if that could be bad on your board. There's a schematic on Thomas Lee's Classic Mac Repair Notes here: bit.ly/34sgrhh
@@JDW- The brightness changes when varying the front knob but it is still too bright. After some more research, I think that I have found the problem my R5 resistor (near the cut-off pot) is cut. Replace it must solve my problem.
One of the capacitors is not available from Mouser. Can you suggest an alternate supplier? Thanks!
Please check your Analog Board and look at capacitor C9. Is it a radial cap that stands upright with both legs going straight down into the PCB, or is it an Axial type that lays on its side with legs coming out either side of the cap? If Axial, I would love to see a photo of that, because all my boards are Radial. I will then pick a substitute for you based on your feedback.
@@JDW- Thanks for your reply! I haven't yet popped it open, as I was thinking of getting a reap kit first. So I will do that and take a look and get back to you. Actually I have a few vintage Macs that need work, specifically a Plus and a 512, and with both of them I have to slap the side of the Mac to see the screen, which then soon disappears again. Otherwise they work fine. From what I have read this is probably a problem with bad solder joints, but I figured that as long as I was going to take them apart and try to fix that I might as well do a recap on them as well. Examining a gazillion solder joints (with a magnifier?) seems like a daunting task ... is there an easy way to identify which joints might need to be reflowed?
@@TeacherJohnny Unfortunately, no. You really do need to use that magnifying glass and check them all, but especially check the flyback and all connectors.
Hello, I am recapping an analog board for a plus machine and noticed that the NE2 has one of the pins broken, I can't seem to find a direct replacement on mouser, what would you recommend?
Unfortunately, I have no experience replacing those high voltage neon bulbs. Their part number might be 4PAK:WX-EGA2-0 as per this page:
www.digikey.com/en/blog/dont-rule-out-the-neon-bulb-as-an-ac-power-on-indicator
But clicking the link on that page yields a 404 on Digikey.
This thread is discussing the two neon bulbs, and is fairly recent, so I would recommend you post your question there, as one of the participants may know a source and if the part number I provided is right or wrong:
68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/screen-stretch-and-neon-lights….46197/
I'm sorry I can't be of more help. But if you ultimately do find a solution, please feel free to post back here because I suspect someone in the future might read our dialog and benefit from that information.
@@JDW- I was able to use a replacement Neon lamp that I found on Amazon and it seems to be overall OK, the machine boots but there is some distortion on one of the top corners, got any idea what could be causing it? could it be the Ne2? th-cam.com/video/zDHOW5F-rgk/w-d-xo.html
That has nothing to do with a neon lamp. It has everything to do with magnetic misalignment. Most likely, twisting one of the small, square magnets that surround the CRT yolk will resolve that problem. You would need to do that with the machine on, so I recommend wearing a rubber glove to avoid accidental shocks. But before you do that, make sure there are no other strong, non-stock magnets placed inside or near the Mac, as that will cause unexplainable distortions to the picture displayed on the CRT.
Just a heads up - some of the capacitors in your Mouser cart are NLA/Discontinued.
Thank you, Kai. It's always a game of Whack-a-mole will silly Mouser. Something suddenly goes out of stock, then I learn about it in the comments and fix it. Currently the Mouser Cart is in the text description, but here it is again: Mouser Cart (includes the 3 RIFA boxes): bit.ly/3aybDrH
The only cap backordered is C2. I will get that swapped out now and then do a follow-up post when done.
C2 is now swapped out for an in-stock and active part. The specs are nearly identical to the cap I had chosen before -- one of the best picks you can find for C2. I should also say that while some other caps in the cart are marked "End of Life" they are still in-stock. And I tend not to swap those out until they are out-of-stock mainly because they tend to be better caps than any other alternative, which makes it all the more bewildering as to why the manufacturers EOL them in the first place. So as of right now, anyone ordering the cart will not have to wait because nothing is backordered right now. Thanks!
@@JDW- Hello ! I mentioned this on another comment, c1 replacement from this mouser cart has very short legs, reading the description "Film Capacitors 450VDC 3.9uF 5% LS=22.5mm Cut Lead" not sure if "cut lead" means that.
@@ZoneFMS I am terribly sorry! I now see the part number chosen was JC at the end, which is cut (short) leads! I've just swapped it out for the "J" part at the end which is "Straight" (long) leads. That will of course not help you right now since you have short leads, so I'm afraid you will need to cut off the excess lead length from another capacitor you are installing, then take that cut off lead and carefully hold it with needle-nosed pliers close to one of the short legs of your C1 cap, then solder those pieces together. Meaning, you will need to lengthen one of the leads on your C1 part. That would then allow you to solder it into the Analog Board. Again, I am terribly sorry for the oversight. The original part was correct, but I must have been told by someone at some point C1 was out of stock, and when I swapped the part out I accidentally chose a replacement with "JC" at the end, and sadly, no one reported that to me until your mention today. Again, I am very, very sorry about this! But for anyone else reading this, as of Feb. 23, 2024, the correct "long lead" part is now in the Mouser Cart and you are good to go when buying it.
so where do you get the complete cap kit?
Click SHOW MORE to expand the text description and you will find the link you seek there, along with a copious amount of additional information too.
Is C38 often glued down? I've desoldered it but it won't budge. Is it safe to try to lever it away with a screwdriver? Thanks for another great video, BTW. I love the pacing and calmness of your instructions, you have nothing that distracts from the process.
Thank you for your kind words. When you say “C38,“ do you really mean C39?
flic.kr/p/2iv8i6n
The use of hot-glue on old analog board is not perfectly consistent, so I cannot say whether a capacitor is glued in your case. But if it is “glued,” it would be hot glued which means you should be able to put a hairdryer on it for a short time and then be able to wiggle it free if indeed it is hot glue holding it on there. It would not be normal glue.
Even after desoldering both feet of a capacitor, the capacitor legs may be bent at 90° angles, parallel to the circuit board, so be sure after you desolder the legs that the tips of those legs are sticking straight down, otherwise you would not be able to pull out the capacitor.
Lastly, if the capacitor body is sticking up a little bit off the circuit board, on the component side of the board, and if you don’t mind destroying that old capacitor, you might be able to cut off that capacitor on the component side of the board.
Please let me know if this helps.
@@JDW- Thank you. No I mean C38 RIFA share.icloud.com/photos/0UwKB4O0yUpzYMGyhfbDMzurA I got one of these to replace it as part of a kit. share.icloud.com/photos/0-dWs4oaIk2khzGOzQTlL37QQ I appreciate it wasn't mentioned in your video.
It just came loose. I had to work it back and forth a lot. I think it was its leakage that made it stick so hard to the board. No glue that I could see.
Isopropanol works better than a heat gun for removing hot glue.
Thank you for your kindness in providing that tip, Brandon!
Hi, is it possible to use a plus 220v analog board on a 120v 512k?
Thanks
It is the analog board which determines the AC voltage compatibility. So if you need to use the Mac in the UK, for example, you need the 220VAC "International" version Analog Board. And if your Mac512 has the US Edition Analog Board in their right now, you merely need to swap the analog boards. Alternatively, I have heard some people in the UK use a drop down transformer to make their US edition Analog Boards work on 220VAC power.
@@JDW- I am using 120V version Mac (from the U.S.) in Europe on 230VAC power. I am running a step-down converter with no problems. But is there a way to modify a 120V version to run on 230V?
I do not own an international version, so I cannot compare with the US version to see if any PCB traces are different. Probably some are. And that means it would be more than just putting in the correct components into a US analog board.
@@JDW- It is totally different. I have both. But perhaps someone has a way to make it work, so I asked. By the way, I got my Mac Plus very cheap as someone brought it from the states to Europe and plugged it in. It didn't like it of course :) But damage was really minor, just one bulging 200V cap and blown fuse...
@@michvod This thread talks about "conversion": 68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/help-120v-macintosh-plus-analog-board-blowing-f1-fuse.36051/
Whats the best replacement for the U3 Optoisolator.
As per Larry Pina's Macintosh Repair and Upgrade Secrets book, page 332, U3 is part number 4N35 which you can find by searching on Mouser: mouser.com
Ok thanks I do have white 4N35s that put out 30 volts would that be the right voltage output.
Lol does the love heart mean a yes
Yes, that 4N35s part is compatible.
Thank you very much
Hi, I understand you live in Japan. Tell me, do you fix 128k logic board which shows sad mac? I will pay you depending on the charge. Please let me know here. I live in Japan too.
Could you please shoot a photo of the sad Mac and then upload it to DropBox or Flickr or Google Photos and then post a link to the photo so I can see it. Your problem may be easily fixable.
@@JDW- Thank you for your reply. The sad mac reads, 047A80.
@@JDW- Here is the link to the Photo. photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPPw0X6wjCrZXGY8hUSxouItYBRfI5eNHfhMIZv
@@genroku7 Your Sad Mac Error indicates bad RAM chips. I started a new discussion on the 68kMLA below to see if others have some thoughts on what could have caused the death of those chips. I am assuming static killed them. I don't have any of those chips in my stock, but JAMECO does sell them. Please see the 68kMLA discussion for all the details as our discussion unfolds (you must be registered there to see the discussion). bit.ly/3mtKdc6
@@JDW- Thank you. I will.
Why did you use a different type of Cap for C5? If you used the same type of cap you would not have had to bend it over to fit under the crt!
Because finding replacement axial capacitors of a similar voltage and capacitance AND temperature rating these days is not as easy as you suggest. Often times in cases where you can find them, they are only rated for 85°C instead of the preferred 105°C. That temperature rating affects their longevity and honestly we really only should use replacement capacitors that are rated at 105°C, even if that means using a radial capacitor instead of the original axial capacitor.
Lastly, you can sometimes find axial capacitors in a tantalum version, but for those you need to use a much higher voltage rating to keep voltage spikes from igniting it, and often they are much more expensive than their aluminum electrolytic counterparts. I hope this clarifies my decision on what to use for C5.
@@JDW- Ok thank you for the response I learn something new every day.
@@JDW- Just a question, but does it actually matter if you use 105 deg caps instead of 85 deg ones? I mean, those machines will not be used everyday, they will usually see 10-20 hours per year. So even after 20 years, those capacitors will might see 400 hours which is like 2 months of 8 hour use which those were used at first.
@@michvod When using a vintage Mac so infrequently, using 85°C caps really doesn't matter so much. But I honestly only use 105°C caps myself, since they will in theory last longer in hot conditions than the 85°C caps and they don't cost much more either, so why not use them? For axial caps where you only have an 85°C version, it will be fine to use the 85°C version, if you wish to preserve the look over capacitor longevity. I personally don't mind, so I use the 105°C radial replacements in cases where I cannot find a 105°C axial.
What is that thing called "Astec"?
I don't wish to reply out of context, so if you could kindly provide the timestamp in my video where you saw me mention or show that, I can provide a better response.
@@JDW- 39:10 That cooper thing that says "Danger". I have another that says Astec and is placed in CR22. Can I find those things actually? Thank you
@@bigbrothertv2167 At that time stamp, I see transformer "T3" which has the label "DANGER HIGH VOLTAGE" and shows p/n: 456-02-002. Transformers on these boards almost never go bad. Capacitors need to be replaced and sometimes diodes, resistors and/or transistors need swapping out too (if a recap doesn't address a given problem), but I've not heard reports of transformers on these boards needing to be replaced. CR22 is a 1N4934 diode that is sitting right next to transformer T3, as shown in my photo here: www.flickr.com/photos/66071596@N00/347186417/
1N4934 diodes are sold on Mouser: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Diodes-Incorporated/1N4934-T?qs=rGAXPo9uwV2OmMDpApVQkg%3D%3D
For a schematic showing CR22, see this PDF: vintageapple.org/gamba2/images/plus_analog.PDF
CR22 is also shown in Larry Pina's book: vintageapple.org/macbooks/pdf/Macintosh_Repair_&_Upgrade_Secrets_1990.pdf
@@JDW- I am deeply grateful for your wisdom. I will record the progress for the good of the community, I will have news soon
Hi @JDW, thanks for your helpful and informative videos. It seems really hard to find a cheap replacement flyback transformer for these boards, but I did come across this: www.tedss.com/2023000396, which is made by Lifon and marked E94167 just like the old FTBs on the Mac boards, and looks like it has the same form factor. Do you have any idea whether it would be compatible? I don't know anything about specs or ratings of flybacks. Thanks again.
Sorry for my delayed reply, but I honestly did not know the answer to your question, so I posted about it in Vintage Macintosh Restoration and Preservation (FaceBook Group) and someone kindly provided a website for flyback part number lookups: bit.ly/33eRpA1
You have to space out the part number you gave me to get it to work in their database, but it yields the following result: bit.ly/2DPxWgU
It says the equivalent is HR 46099. Click on View, then click on View and you will not find "MAC" listed anywhere on that table. Then click View schema to see the schematic. Then note that the Mac SE's flyback is the equivalent of HR 42032 and you can find that schematic here: bit.ly/3kf4bWr
Note that the two schematics are different, which means the Lifon flyback you found is almost certain NOT to work.
If you search for another stock Macintosh flyback part number, you will get this result: bit.ly/35lqV2t
Click View and you will see that "MAC" is listed as compatible in that table of data for HR 42031. You can also see a photo and a replacement experience of that flyback model here: macgui.com/news/article.php?t=446
All said, you should see that database to research equivalent part numbers and if "MAC" is not listed as being compatible or if the schematic is very different from the HR 42032, then you are almost assured the flyback you found is not compatible.
I hope this helps!
Hello my friend! How're You? I hope you're good! I'm fine! See you!
So far so good. Corona hasn’t got me yet! :-)
Hi, great vid. You make me think of trying recapping even. So tell me please, • Mouser Cart (includes the 3 RIFA boxes): bit.ly/39ewo9N is all the parts you used in the vid? Thank you.
Correct. That Mouser link includes all 3 safety capacitors too, so everything in that Cart is all you need for the Mac 128K ~ Plus Analog Board. Keep in mind though that there are Axial caps on the MOTHERBOARD too which need replacing, and I did a video on that here: th-cam.com/video/vz2NGF5Vuao/w-d-xo.html
Hi James! I’ve sent you a message on Facebook messenger. You might have to check your requests inbox. Any assistance would be appreciated ☺️
Sorry about that, Will. I never received a notification about your FB Messenger contact. I will check if you there and let you know.
Useless information. Still no working
In like manner, your two sentences aren't exactly "useful" information for me to assist you, seeing you have not made time to describe your exact problem. And while I am more than eager to help you, please consider that the title of my video is "recapping walkthrough," not "this video will fix all your problems."
@@JDW- No dong sound at boot, no image on screen, just a continuous flup flup flup sound... fully recaped
@@drakepirate Thank you for the information. Since yours is fully recapped, it's clear you did that prior to my video. That's not a bad thing. It's the right thing to do, but it's not a cure for all that plagues these old Macs. The Larry Pina book (available online) which I linked in the text description under my video, describes that FLUP, FLUP problem. It could be due to things other than capacitors, such as the Voltage Level, or even some rectifier parts on the Analog Board having gone bad. The following 68kMLA thread describes one person's experience that might be helpful to you:
68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/41851-my-512k-build-quotflup-flup-flupquot/
@@JDW- Same problem of this Lady here, but mine wasn't solved by an elf by night as it happened to her... th-cam.com/video/uRKeM4UOiFI/w-d-xo.html
@@drakepirate Thank you for the link. You will note that I posted a comment under her video 3 months ago. :-) But what she describes is what I just said. A recap will not fix all problems with the Mac Plus (and older) compact Macs.
Did you read through the 68kMLA thread I linked for you? If not, then what voltage levels do you measure at the external floppy drive connector (you will see how to do that in my video)? If you get a solid 5.0V and 12.1V (or so), then are all your cables good and correctly connected? If they are, then I once again will need to point you to the Larry Pina Book and that 68kMLA thread (since they say the same thing), as it very well could be one of the regulators on your Analog Board that is bad.
Even so, it is a very good thing that you recapped your board, as you can exclude that as the source of your problem. Lastly, take a deep breath and be patient. Solving problems on these old Macs take time. But what you are seeing isn't something no one else has seen before. Again, that Pina book is an excellent resource! Feel free to Comment back.