Seeing the soldering iron on all of the capacitor fluid brought back gross memories from when I recapped my ImageWriter II power supply it smelled so bad
I’ve finally plucked up the courage to tackle an an analog board from a Classic after years of avoiding that section of a compact for obvious reasons, other than the fact this is the first one that’s died on me. Interesting point to note, all the 105c caps recommended for replacement by the transformer had a “sweaty” or oily look. Not one of the others was like that but I’ll replace those anyway. Having seen them from above I feared the worst after seeing the resulting mess in this video but the PCB traces were in very good shape so no trace repairs necessary.
Hey nice video! I have a Performa 200 (Classic II) that I recently recapped the Logic board. I checked the Analog board and there is no sign of leakage but looking at the caps they are not a known brand so I will probably replace them anyway just to prevent any future leakage. Did you use a specific type of cap in there, IE LowZ or caps designed for switching PSUs or does it really even matter in these old boards?
I've got a 120V Macintosh classic that needs recapping here in America I _would_ ship it out to Australia but I'm concerned about potential damages it would get in the mail and the cost of postage. I'll be sure to document my analog recap as best as I can once I get this thing open. Just hope I remember to record the cap values and to post them somewhere public. I just hope the battery didn't explode, but since it still works from a cold boot I'm not sure how concerned I have to be about that.
Just a short comment. I would have cleaned the bottom of the board before soldering the caps back on. I believe it would have assured a better desoldering job. By the way, there are service manuals on archive.org that outline how to get the correct geometry side. Great video. You have a nice collection of videos on this interesting topic!
@@BranchusCreations Did you put the entire board into the cleaner? Have some concerns with the flyback going in liquid, but if you've never had an issue would save me a ton of time just plopping them in the ultrasound...
I have a Classic not working but I do have an extra Classic II logic board. Can you put a Classic II logic board into a Mac Classic. Thought I would at least try that if that was possible.
I was tempted to Re Cap my Analog Boards in my LC 575's since I did the Logic Boards already but I see no evidence of leaking so for now, I think I'll leave well enough alone. I do need to get busy Re Capping my LC III TDK PSU however
@@mindluge Re-Cap went well. I got all the caps from Digi-key. Total BOM with shipping was like $12 and I bought extra caps. I would suggest touching up all of the solder joints while you have it apart and make sure to clean out out any leaked electrolyte
@@captain3186 thanks. do you know where i might be able to get a list of the caps i would need to get? if you still know which ones you got i'd really appreciate it.
Hi, I'm trying to repair a macintosh that I found on a flea market and I got to your video because this mac doesn't even start so thought it could be bad caps on the analog board, I'm gonna go buy replacements next week. I was wondering if bad caps could make it not run at all and also if it is possible to mod the board to change it from 120 to 240v.
I think it's curious that some capacitors are prone to leaking while others are not. Could it be that the leaky ones are left with a charge after the circuit is deenergized? If so, perhaps there's a solution that could ensure that the caps are drained after shutdown.
I recapped my 220V Macintosh Classic analog board following the suggested list of caps to be replaced on your website but still have a low 4.3V on the 5V rail. I will try recapping the rest of the caps I left unchanged. I also read this AB are prone to have a bad optocoupler. If I use a hair dryers to blow hot air around the caps it will increase the voltage and boot the computer. Any suggestions?
Branchus Creations for some reason when I plug the Mac to the power outlet bypassing the earth (ground) pin with an adapter, everything works fine with stable voltages. I changed all the caps, diodes DP3 and DP4 and the optocoupler. No luck so far. The problem bypassing the ground connector is it makes the floppy drive unreliable. There still one cap I need to change, a 1uf 50V cap on CP5. Today I will change it to see if there is any results.
I'm planning to do a recapping/refurb video of a Mac SE, Mac SE/30 power supply. Is that the sort of thing you're after? If not, can you be more specific?
@@BranchusCreations specifically a PSU repair/re-cap. i have an LC style (LCIII TDK) PSU that has failed. and/or a repair or re-cap of an SE/30, Color Classic, and/or Mac Plus PSU
@@mindluge SE/30 and IIsi power supply videos coming soon. Just did a couple of LC power supplies but didn't film them unfortunately. I'll make sure I film the next one I do.
I have a Mac Classic that's not working, no video but not sure it's worth messing with since I haven't used in in 20 years. Why are people so interested in getting these old computers working again? I have a working LC475 but just for a couple of games but that's about it.
Seeing the soldering iron on all of the capacitor fluid brought back gross memories from when I recapped my ImageWriter II power supply it smelled so bad
This was fantastic. I learned a lot and want to try and repair my Macintosh Classic II now as well by recapping it. Really well done, thank you!
Nice video Bruce! I wish I would of watched this before I recapped my own! XD
I’ve finally plucked up the courage to tackle an an analog board from a Classic after years of avoiding that section of a compact for obvious reasons, other than the fact this is the first one that’s died on me. Interesting point to note, all the 105c caps recommended for replacement by the transformer had a “sweaty” or oily look. Not one of the others was like that but I’ll replace those anyway. Having seen them from above I feared the worst after seeing the resulting mess in this video but the PCB traces were in very good shape so no trace repairs necessary.
Hey nice video! I have a Performa 200 (Classic II) that I recently recapped the Logic board. I checked the Analog board and there is no sign of leakage but looking at the caps they are not a known brand so I will probably replace them anyway just to prevent any future leakage. Did you use a specific type of cap in there, IE LowZ or caps designed for switching PSUs or does it really even matter in these old boards?
Do you have a recapping guide for the 120 volt version of the mac classic 2 analog board?
also can you post a 120v version of the classic analog board cheat sheet? Cause I only can find a 240v version on your site
If I ever get my hands on one, I will!
Did you guys ever find it?
I've got a 120V Macintosh classic that needs recapping here in America I _would_ ship it out to Australia but I'm concerned about potential damages it would get in the mail and the cost of postage. I'll be sure to document my analog recap as best as I can once I get this thing open. Just hope I remember to record the cap values and to post them somewhere public.
I just hope the battery didn't explode, but since it still works from a cold boot I'm not sure how concerned I have to be about that.
Just a short comment. I would have cleaned the bottom of the board before soldering the caps back on. I believe it would have assured a better desoldering job. By the way, there are service manuals on archive.org that outline how to get the correct geometry side. Great video. You have a nice collection of videos on this interesting topic!
I cleaned the board in an ultrasonic cleaner before putting the new caps on, but I didn't include it in the video.
@@BranchusCreations Did you put the entire board into the cleaner? Have some concerns with the flyback going in liquid, but if you've never had an issue would save me a ton of time just plopping them in the ultrasound...
Hi, is this will resolve the wobbly screen problem with vertical line? thank you
I have a Classic not working but I do have an extra Classic II logic board. Can you put a Classic II logic board into a Mac Classic. Thought I would at least try that if that was possible.
I was tempted to Re Cap my Analog Boards in my LC 575's since I did the Logic Boards already but I see no evidence of leaking so for now, I think I'll leave well enough alone. I do need to get busy Re Capping my LC III TDK PSU however
i have that exact same PSU that just failed. how did your re-cap of that go and do you have a cap list for that repair by any chance?
@@mindluge Re-Cap went well. I got all the caps from Digi-key. Total BOM with shipping was like $12 and I bought extra caps. I would suggest touching up all of the solder joints while you have it apart and make sure to clean out out any leaked electrolyte
@@captain3186 thanks. do you know where i might be able to get a list of the caps i would need to get? if you still know which ones you got i'd really appreciate it.
just jot down the values on the caps in your PSU. I didn't save a parts list unfortunately but it took only a few minutes to put together
Hi, I'm trying to repair a macintosh that I found on a flea market and I got to your video because this mac doesn't even start so thought it could be bad caps on the analog board, I'm gonna go buy replacements next week. I was wondering if bad caps could make it not run at all and also if it is possible to mod the board to change it from 120 to 240v.
I think it's curious that some capacitors are prone to leaking while others are not. Could it be that the leaky ones are left with a charge after the circuit is deenergized? If so, perhaps there's a solution that could ensure that the caps are drained after shutdown.
I recapped my 220V Macintosh Classic analog board following the suggested list of caps to be replaced on your website but still have a low 4.3V on the 5V rail. I will try recapping the rest of the caps I left unchanged. I also read this AB are prone to have a bad optocoupler. If I use a hair dryers to blow hot air around the caps it will increase the voltage and boot the computer. Any suggestions?
Did you see much leakage? Did you give it a good clean?
Branchus Creations for some reason when I plug the Mac to the power outlet bypassing the earth (ground) pin with an adapter, everything works fine with stable voltages. I changed all the caps, diodes DP3 and DP4 and the optocoupler. No luck so far. The problem bypassing the ground connector is it makes the floppy drive unreliable. There still one cap I need to change, a 1uf 50V cap on CP5. Today I will change it to see if there is any results.
Bruce, can you show an old Mac power supply repair or replacement/refurbishment with new parts?
I'm planning to do a recapping/refurb video of a Mac SE, Mac SE/30 power supply. Is that the sort of thing you're after? If not, can you be more specific?
@@BranchusCreations specifically a PSU repair/re-cap. i have an LC style (LCIII TDK) PSU that has failed. and/or a repair or re-cap of an SE/30, Color Classic, and/or Mac Plus PSU
@@mindluge SE/30 and IIsi power supply videos coming soon. Just did a couple of LC power supplies but didn't film them unfortunately. I'll make sure I film the next one I do.
@@BranchusCreations cap lists would be greatly appreciated as well. You are the best.
Bruce do you have some kind of birds? if so what kind(s)? or is that just the natural Australian wildlife :-)
It's a combination of both. I have chickens, but most of the bird noises are the natural Australian wildlife.
I have a Mac Classic that's not working, no video but not sure it's worth messing with since I haven't used in in 20 years. Why are people so interested in getting these old computers working again? I have a working LC475 but just for a couple of games but that's about it.