ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2024
- Analog Board recapping walkthrough video covers CRT discharge, flyback replacement and screen adjustments. Use Chrome to watch in 4K.
🔍 INDEX
0:00 Intro
2:48 Analog Board Revisions
5:33 4-pin Connector P1 (often burned)
6:12 Mouser Cart overview
8:19 Safety, CRT Discharge
11:14 Removing Analog Board
13:45 Recapping
39:14 Flyback Replacement
44:54 Silenx Fan
45:51 Reassembly
53:14 Testing & Adjustments
1:03:40 Closing Remarks
1:05:50 Why should you watch this entire video?
🛠 TOOLS:
• Plastic TV alignment tools: amzn.to/2Scykul
For making CRT adjustments on the white-covered side of the analog board. NEVER use metal! It must be ALL PLASTIC!
• Torx T15 with LONG neck: amzn.to/2ScAskx
• Bulldog Clip (helpful to pry off back case): amzn.to/2H7lIhF
• Phillips (+) head screw driver
• Discharge tool or flat-head screwdriver with a wire with alligator clips, for discharging the CRT -- ALWAYS done with the power off and power cord disconnected!
• Soldering iron with °F-only LCD & Solder Kit (80W, cheap!): amzn.to/36BYi0K
or
• Soldering Station (120W, ESD safe): amzn.to/30g1Frt
or
• HAKKO (Japanese) Soldering Station (70W ceramic core): amzn.to/2YvIo42
• Solder (Leaded Rosin Core 0.82mm): amzn.to/3GzJbVl
• Desoldering wick (Amazon US): amzn.to/3iMAnA5
💁♂️TIP: Set soldering iron temperature to 350°C. Don't use lead-free solder.
• 99% ISO Alcohol (Spray Bottle!): amzn.to/3ae4fG6
• 99% ISO Alcohol: amzn.to/3NoFkxN
• 99% ISO Alcohol: amzn.to/2YsK8v3
💁♂️3 alcohol choices because it's often out of stock.
• Voltmeter (Cheap!): amzn.to/2H1S7Ge
• Hot-Glue Gun & sticks: amzn.to/39hBfav
• Heat gun or very strong hair dryer that can melt hot glue, so you can remove some of the stock capacitors more easily after desoldering them -- some are hot-glued.
• Used toothbrush for scrubbing away the flux after you finish soldering in all your replacement capacitors. You can also use the opposite end of a toothbrush if you need to make adjustments on the Yoke as shown in my video.
• Swabs, for dipping in the alcohol if you need to clean up any spilled electrolyte from old, leaking capacitors.
• Rubber gloves (or any electrically insulated gloves) if you need to make adjustments around the CRT Yoke, especially with the power switched on.
🤓 USEFUL TOOL for Super-Geeks:
• DE-5000 Handheld LCR Meter (Amazon US): amzn.to/2ScttJz
The absolute best handheld meter to check the ESR of capacitors. That Amazon link comes with all 3 accessories: TL-21, TL-22 & TL-23. If you buy this to check your caps, feel free to post your ESR measurements of the Analog Board caps in the Comments section, and be sure to let me know which Frequency you used -- (e.g., 120Hz, 1kHz, etc.).
MENTIONED IN MY VIDEO:
• Capacitor List (Mouser Cart): bit.ly/37metyA
⚠️ If you choose your own capacitors, ensure the Lead Spacing matches the Analog Board holes. All other caps in my Mouser list sit flush with the board. Carefully consider the Height of your caps so you don't choose caps so tall they stick out and touch the CRT.
• Replacement connector pair for P1 is sold on Mouser:
15-31-1046: bit.ly/3blRW6M
19-09-1049: bit.ly/2w0DXTC
Gold Terminals: bit.ly/3GHLwgF
Standard Terminals: bit.ly/3oESSey
Product photo on Mouser is wrong but Description clarifies that there are "4 Positions." I bought the 2 connectors & gold terminals.
• SilenX IXP-34-16 60x25mm fan on Amazon US: amzn.to/2vGL3fT
• Mac Classic & SE Repair & Upgrade Secrets by Larry Pina: amzn.to/388LrC1
▶NOTE: You can freely access the Larry Pina book from Archive.org if you register, login & click the "Join waitlist" button here: bit.ly/2Ttq1ro
It works like a library book in that you can access it freely, but for a limited time. Special thanks to Karsten Kruse for having mentioned this.
💾 Lode Runner game: bit.ly/2HbVtsj
💵 NOTE: Your price on Amazon (US only) is the same even if you don't click the "amzn.to" Affiliate links above, but if you do click & purchase within 24 hours, Amazon may pay me a small commission on all qualifying items in your Cart (even items not linked above).
📕 TECHNICAL INFO:
• Analog Board Schematic: bit.ly/2YDryOt
• SE/30 Service Manual: bit.ly/2TweGLP
• Classic Mac Repair Notes: bit.ly/2J7NVsw
🗣️ 68kMLA Compact Mac Forum: bit.ly/2u06Mew
🗣️ Vintage Apple Macintosh Enthusiasts FB Group: bit.ly/2NTF5Ny
OTHER VIDEOS:
🍿 Recapping the DiiMO 50MHz 68030 PDS accelerator: • Niobium Oxide RECAP of...
🖥 27" iMac (2009-2011) Video Card Bake: • Late 2009 iMac 27" Vid...
🎬 For SE & SE/30:
• SONY PSU recapping: • Macintosh SE/30 SONY P...
• SEASONIC replacement PSU: • Macintosh SE/30 New Po...
💰SUPPORT MY WORK
www.paypal.me/supportJDW
📺 SUBSCRIBE:
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#Apple #Macintosh #JDW - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Austin Altmann posted a great Mac SE restoration (Feb. 2021) here: www.austinaltmann.com/musings.html
@Wonka SE & SE/30 are the same for the Analog Board and Power Supply.
@Wonka Feel free to report back with how you're recapping went.
@Wonka I see there is 1 cap that's backordered in the cart. Let me swap that out for you. It will take about 10 minutes.
@Wonka I've substituted for the backordered cap. You're all set to order the Mouser Cart in the text description now. Good luck!
I've watched this video twice fully and I really want to thank you for being so thorough about the whole process of recapping the analog board. I feel much more confident in tackling the task on my Mac SE FDHD.
Thank you for making time to let me know my video helped you, Krishna. I certainly appreciate your earlier comments as well. I'm still hard at work on other vintage Mac videos so if you're not subscribed already, here's an easy subscribe link: th-cam.com/users/JDW11
Thanks again!!! MY SE/30 analog board has been recapped with your outstanding instructions. I never would have figured out how to get C15 in there without this video.
Watching this three years after you published this video. Now that you have thousands of subscribers I hope you are getting paid. The quality of your content and your dedication certainly deserves it.
Thank you for your kind words. About getting paid, well, I keep Ads switched off because I still don't have enough subscribers to make Google AdSense pay me anything other than pennies. I do have between 1 and 3 people per month who very kindly donate to this channel by PayPal. And I also post Amazon Affiliate links under most of my videos, which sometimes pays a small amount to help support this channel. In total, it's not enough for me to splurge and do amazing things like the big time TH-camrs do, but it does help me purchase some smaller things I can show in videos without getting too deep in the red.
But enough about me getting something, I hope to do a little giving in my next video. I've never done a giveaway before, but I think it's about time for one, and interestingly, it will be related to the Macintosh SE, which is on the same theme as this video of mine that you just watched. So please stay tuned for that. Take care and best wishes to you in 2023, Luis!
I can't thank you enough for the care and detail you put into these tutorials. It is really appreciated. I've been able to fully and sucessfully recap three SE's (800k, FDHD and 30) with your help.
It truly warms my heart to hear that, Steve. Thank you for making time to let me know your story of success. Best wishes to you and your newly recapped Macs!
Thank you for the long video. I plan to do the job on my own se/30 soon. This was extremely useful!
I very much appreciate you making this video. Thank you! I have a Macintosh SE/30 that I used for music production in 1990. I would love to have it restored one day, because it represents the time I started working in music professionally.
Thank you for your kind comment. If you wish to have someone else do the job, you should post in the 68kMLA forum. There are folks there who can do the job. And while I can do it (obviously), I live in Japan so the 2-way shipping would be cost-prohibitive. But the lowest cost way to go is DIY. It's really not that hard or dangerous. It's just like what you see in my video. With that said, it does take time and requires a soldering iron and solder. You have to buy the capacitors too. And you would need to do the analog board as well as the power supply and the motherboard too (which I don't yet have a recapping video on). The single most important board to recap is the motherboard though. You should at least open your SE/30 to check it. If you see gunky leaked fluid on the board, you really do need to clean that off with 99% ISO Alcohol before it further eats into the board traces and renders it unrepairable. Caps on the analog board won't do that.
@@JDW- Thanks again!
Amazing video! I really appreciate all of the work you put into it as well as the text description. Will be using this as a reference when I complete my first recap.
Thank you for your kind words. Feel free to leave another comment after your recap so I can know about your success. Thanks.
Now that is a solid video! 5 stars for sure. I enjoyed the zoomed in angles they are pro level. I agree with your closing comments. I love working on these classic computers and there is so much disinformation out there and on TH-cam that it is nice to see accurate videos on the subject. Keep up the good work. Subscribed now.
I really appreciate your kind sentiments. Thank you for watching and subscribing!
Thanks for this amazing video. Just recapped my own Mac SE last weekend following your instructions. Analog, power, and logic boards. Worked on the first try. Thank you again!
I am extremely happy to hear you got your SE up and running again, Charlie! Best wishes!
Your video really helped me while recapping my own SE analog board today. Thank you!
That’s wonderful to hear. Thank you for making time to let me know, Erin!
Many excellent classic Mac resources these days. Yours are among the best for sure. Very appreciated!
Thank you very much for your kind words, Steve!
@@JDW- I also want to thank you for recommending 25V caps for the SE/30 logic board restore. The information about the voltage derating was very helpful. I used tantalum polymers and everything is working very well.
Thank you very much for your final comments about your videos representing a labor of love. Those of us who subscribe know how much work you are putting into all of this.
Once again, I certainly appreciate your kindness in saying so, Alex!
Thanks for this detailed walkthrough! It's very helpful as I'm recapping mine today.
Best wishes on your recap today!
What a great video. Perfect for anyone that wants an in-depth and knowledgable overview before doing these repairs and adjustments! Very well done, sir!
Thank you for your kind words, Joe!
I am blown away by the incredible amount of work you had to go through to put all those links together including the parts list on Mouser. Wonderful Outstanding Work (WOW) 😲
It did take a lot of time, and I certainly appreciate your kind words about that. I’m pleased to hear it was a help to you.
Very good, detailed video which I’ll be using as a reference - so many thanks for taking the time to make the video and share it with us.
Thank you for your kind comment, Joe!
JDW It’s deserved. Yesterday, I finally recapped the logic board of one of my SE/30s, and after success there am turning my attention to the PSU and analogue board - slight screen shimmering, but have already spotted a few dry joints which I’ll address before recapping. Your tips on screen adjustment will be most useful. Like you, I’m of the older “nostalgia” generation (the first Mac I bought was an SE/30...) and have an interest in electronics and fixing things. Am also lurk on 68kmla occasionally too, and will keep an eye out for your posts. Cheers, Joe (London)
Joe D I’m also in London 👋 with a multitude of vintage Macs 😄
Hey, JDW, you are a genius, thanks for this videos. Saludos desde Chile
Estoy verdaderamente honrado por sus amables palabras. ¡Muchas gracias!
Great video. Watched from start to end. Didn't recap but took it apart to clean both the mother board and analog board with a teeth brush and isopropyl. hopefully this recovers My Macintosh Classic II audio. Thanks for sharing this video!
Thanks for the video! We referenced it on Episode 493 of the RetroMacCast.
Wow! Thank you. I love RetroMacCast! For others who come along and read these comments, below is the link to Episode 493, and by the way, your mention of recapping and ultimately my video begins at the 15-min mark. retromaccast.libsyn.com/rmc-episode-493-johns-recap-recap
By the way, in that same Episode 493, you mentioned the Sun De-yellowing video on TH-cam. I was concerned that might not be a good idea, so I spoke to a fellow member of the 68kMLA forum who did exactly that form of deyellowing a year ago. I asked if the yellowing came back, and he reported that it did and with a vengeance. You can see photos and all of that discussion at the following link (note that I am JDW there too): 68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/29335-retrobright-effect-from-uv-alone-no-additives/&page=3
Excellent video! I learned a lot.
This is so niche and yet so detailed! You sir, are a gem! I owe you a lunch if you ever pass through Cupertino.
Thank you for your very kind words, Moazam! I'm extremely pleased my video was able to benefit you in some way. Being in Japan and with things still the way they are with COVID-19, I'm not sure when I will pass through Cupertino, but I certainly appreciate your gracious offer.
I must admit I've long pondered taking a stab at applying for a position at Apple. I've been a Mac user since the 128K in 1984 and am originally from Fresno, CA. I worked for a short stint at the now defunct MicroAge Computers (authorized Apple reseller) back in the day when the IIci was still on display. I went on to get my BSEE at Fresno State in 1994 - the same year I moved to Japan to work in the automotive security field. I still have family in CA, and my daughter will be a freshman at a university in Riverside this fall. Might be nice to move back, although I've heard rent is rather eye-popping these days.
James is one of kind, his videos, his demeanor and professionalism are as as unique as his content and I know that I don't speak for myself when I say that we love his contributions and presence on this platform. He is a gem!
Your video helped me a ton. Very informative, very well spoken. I apologize on behalf of all the lunch table repairmen in the comments.
Thank you for your kind words, Lawrence!
Great video, thanks! Immediate subscriber!
I watched the whole thing and it's fantastic. This is exactly the tutorial I was looking for. Thank you
That’s wonderful to hear, Brad. Thank you for making time to let me know my video helped you!
@@JDW- Pardon the ask, but do you have suggestions on where to get the backordered caps please? I was trying to order your suggested cart. Thanks!
@@sparksx2 Please reload the same Cart. I just updated it to swap out the backordered caps. The replacements are just as good or better as the backordered caps. Good luck on your recap!
@@JDW- Thank you!
I just finished recapping my logic board a couple of weeks a go with great success. The analog board is next so I found your video very helpful and a good reference. By the way, I am in Japan as well, so its nice to see someone local who shares the same love for vintage computers,
That's great to hear, Bobby! Are you in the Tokyo area? I am based just outside Nagoya and have been in Japan about 27 years.
@@JDW- I am in Yokohama, also been in Japan for about 27 years (since 95). I am recording all my work (really for my own reference) but plan to upload everything as soon as I am done. I also just picked up an Apple IIc on Yahoo, which I had when I was in junior hs. Keyboard is shot so I plan to do a full refurbishment of it soon.
Extremely useful video and I want to thank you.
Thank you for your very kind words, Guy!
Another great video best regards !!
Thank you!
Informative and helpful. Thank you.
Thank you for your kind words, Denny! Best wishes!
Just used your guide and Mouser cart. Digi-Key had some of the caps that Mouser was out of stock on. 2 of the old Nichicon caps were leaking from underneath, not bad luckily. Will get it back together tomorrow to see how it works. My solder skills are highly proficient however my hot glue work looks like a preschool art project... Thanks!
Thank you for letting me know. I updated the Mouser Cart to swap out the two backordered parts with in-stock parts. But I'm glad to hear it wasn't a problem for you to use DigiKey for those. I look forward to hearing more when you're finished!
@JDW Thanks so much for posting this video. I was reluctant to tackle the SMD parts on the main board, so those are outsourced. However, after watching this video and having a nice HAKKO FR301, I decided it is worth taking a shot. I'll be trying the power supply replacement and report back. I've only found the 300w Seasonic version in stock, so I hope it will work.
If you compare the Analog Board, Motherboard and Power Supply, the easiest to recap is the Analog Board. Second easiest is the SONY Power Supply (recap). But the motherboard takes more care due to the SMD capacitors, like you said. Doing a Power Supply swap with the SEASONIC isn't too bad, but as you can see in that video, it does take time and you have to be careful with the wiring. I would put it on par with recapping the motherboard in terms of overall effort. By the way, the same 250W Season PSU can be found on EBAY even today: ebay.to/2tDjAuz
@@JDW- Thanks for the link, I'll order one of those and one of the 300w versions to see if they can work. I have about a dozen machines I would like to refurbish. SMD is difficult because of the precision as well as removal of the original capacitors. I've watched the complete video for this and the Sony > Seasonic conversion and I am fairly confident in both. The only variable for the power supply conversion is the power plug. Did you reuse a harness or solder to the original Sony power connector?
@@MacEffects88 Yes, I used the stock SONY PSU's connector on my Seasonic, and you can see me talk about that if you start watching that video about 16 min. 23 sec.: th-cam.com/video/hiN7mP9iQxA/w-d-xo.html
This is incredibly useful, thank you James. I’ve recapped many logic boards and quite a few PSUs too. Never a analog board so far and I’ll be using this guide to recap all my SE and SE/30 boards.
Interestingly I have an SE/30 that I thought had a dead logicboard - horizontal lines on boot and no chime. I even replaced several ICs trying to fix it. But the other day it occurred to me to swap it into an SE out of curiosity and it just worked fine! I felt stupid and relieved. So now I figure it must be the analog board and/or PSU. So discovering your video came at just the right time!
Thank you for your kind words, J.Weiner! I certainly hate those Simasimac horizontal lines at cold boot because not every case is solved by a known good analog board. I have one of those where I recapped it but it still had the same horizontal line problem and then I sent it off to a more tech savvy guy at the 68kMLA, and apparently he fixed it, but when I got it back it had the same problem. It might be a broken trace problem pertaining to one of the SIMM slots as evidenced by my recent diagnosis using an Apple TechStep. I will be showing that diagnosis and the TechStep in my next video.
JDW oh perhaps I should finally use my Techstep to test it?! I’ll look forward to that video. I’ve never tried it before. I’m about to disassemble the SE/30 and I’ll probably order the parts for 3 or 4 analogue boards as I have SEs and SE/30s coming out of my ears. I have a particularly lovely boxed SE/30 that appears to have been hardly used at all ☺️
@@jamesweiner Finding classic Macs from the 1980's in pristine condition is becoming harder as time goes along, so it sounds like that SE/30 of yours is a true gem. Hopefully the PRAM battery didn't explode and leak all over the motherboard. Those kind of problems are very hard to repair and sometimes just impossible. Anyway, here's the link to my TechStep video: th-cam.com/video/79Rs83c9xwY/w-d-xo.html
JDW yeah nothing to worry about, I always remove the PRAM batteries 🙂 Enjoyed the Techstep video and once I’ve moved home I’ll be getting mine out of storage and putting it through its paces. I’ve ordered the parts to recap 4 analog boards and starting the first one this evening, using this video as my guide. Thanks again! 👍
@@JDW- I look forward to the video that you are planning. As always, it should be a delight to watch.
I’m not even recapping a Macintosh SE- yet. Still watching the whole thing though
Thank you very much for the nice video
Thank you for watching!
This video is a fantastic resource -- especially the link to the cart with the capacitors. I'm still a relative beginner when it comes to soldering, but I think I may actually give this a try on one of my SEs. Do you have any plans to do something similar for older models? I'm assuming the capacitors would be somewhat different for an original Macintosh or Plus
Actually, I do have such plans because I have a Mac 512k with the original 64k ROMs from 1985 that I intend to recap. I've already purchased the capacitors, in fact. But I am now putting the finishing touches on my Apple HD20SC recapping video, which also applies to the HD40SC, 80SC and 160SC, as they all use the same SONY power supply. Another forthcoming video will be about fans in the SE/30, since we all like quiet fans. But there is a heat tradeoff since the quiet fans don't move as much air as the louder ones. I then will have recapping videos on keyboards and floppy drives too, so stay tuned! My main problem though is that I don't make any money off TH-cam since I don't allow ads or have Patreon, so I can only make these videos in my spare time, after my day job is finished, and only when I am not helping out around the house with my wife and kids. For that reason, I don't kick out videos at the same pace as dedicated TH-camrs. Even so, those are my upcoming plans.
You got more than 8mins viewing out of me on this one :)
the thing that's worse than leaky capacitors is if the 3.6v lithium battery takes a dump on the logic board.
Correct. But once you take care of the battery, the caps are definitely the very next consideration!
Hint: remove hot glue trivially by soaking a paper towel with 99.9% alcohol and wrap it around the glue. Within a minute, it will just fall off!
Thank you for the tip! But if that works, wouldn’t it be possible to do the same by dipping a swab in alcohol and then dabbing the alcohol on the hot glue?
@@JDW- Maybe, but you need to get enough alcohol between the hot glue and the board. The paper towel keeps it in place. A swap might not be enough. Try it out: it is profound how easy hot glue can be removed.
@@JDW- This is how I remove hot glue all of the time, including from analog boards. A wet q-tip works really well, and the hot glue simply loses its bond and falls away as soon as it is moistened by the isopropyl alcohol! In my experience, this technique is significantly easier and cleaner than trying to melt the hot glue away.
@@davidgreen4406 Thank you, David. (And thank you again, markus!) I actually may use that tip in a forthcoming video because I plan to recap an already recapped SE/30 motherboard. The board was my very first recap more than 15 years ago, and while the caps are just fine, they are radial electrolytics. The reason is because it was my first cap-job and I just used capacitor stock in my inventory at the time. They look bad though, especially with my hot-glue around them. They also are preventing me from using a socketed accelerator upgrade on that board too. I will therefore try the swab-in-alcohol trick (I have 99% ISO) to see if that can easily remove the blobs. Thanks again!
Thanks! Have two sick SE/30's here (and a few others) so this has helped with a few questions I had. Do you know if there are international and US versions of the SE/30 analog boards? Just wondering if I should expect differences between my Australian machines and yours and most others on youtube. Oh, and I watched this to the end. I have a similar background and level of nostalgia as yourself, so enjoy your videos greatly. Keep up the great work!
Thank you for watching the entire video and for your kind words. I am sorry to hear of your sick SE/30's. The following document mentions that you can run the SE/30 on US power or the 240VAC commonly found in Europe: tim.id.au/laptops/apple/legacy/macintosh_se.30.pdf
The SE/30's PSU is auto adjusting for power frequency too. And because the PSU adjusts according to the input power, the analog board doesn't need to be specialized for the AC voltage, unlike the Mac Plus and earlier Macs which did. I am also happy to report that the SE and SE/30 work fine on 100VAC here in Japan. Basically, the SE or SE/30 work on any wall socket power. You just need the right cable to fit your wall socket. I hope this helps!
@@JDW- excellent - thanks for the link! Goldmine!
I really love this video, thank you for all the help. Do you have a link to the flyback?
thank you for your kind words. I unfortunately don’t have a link to that because they are not sold individually anymore, and haven’t been for many years. Sadly, The way that people typically get a better flyback is by removing a good one from a known-good analog board. But that somewhat defeats the purpose of removing it because if you already have a known-good analog board, you can just use that analog board as is, or perhaps with a recap.
Thanks for this video! Me SE/30 is running again without the high pitched whine.
That’s great to hear, Jason. I assume you replaced the flyback transformer?
JDW No I was hoping the caps would cure it, and it did. The machine would whine whenever the mouse moved or clicked.
Well, if you put your nose above the air vents above the analog board while the machine is powered on and smell Ozone, your flyback probably has issues. You can confirm that by taking off the back case and powering it on in a pitch black room and see if there is any faint voltage arcing in the vicinity of the flyback. I actually show a clip of a bad flyback in my video on recapping the Mac Plus analog board.
Hi, excellent video, thank you very much for the information. Can you help me by clarifying if this list of capacitors is the same for a 220v Macintosh Se/30?
Thank you for your kind words. To my knowledge, all power supplies found in the Macintosh SE or Macintosh SE/30 should be universal power supplies that will work on 100 or 200 V AC. However, not all power supplies are from the same power supply manufacturer, and my parts list is for the one made by SONY. I would suggest you remove your power supply and open it and compare at least a few capacitors with the ones in my capacitor list to confirm that your power supply type matches my capacitor list.
The hooks on the CRT anode cap, shown here: th-cam.com/video/zr_Q4bGI_qY/w-d-xo.html are what the screw driver should come in contact with. You may or may not see or hear a spark, it depends on how long the computer has been unplugged from the electrical outlet before you began the CRT discharge. If you just unplugged the computer and within a few minutes were ran a discharge then you may hear or see a spark but some CRTs are equipped with a bleeder resistor and if the said resistor has not failed it will assume the charge and result in no sound at all, even if the computer was recently unplugged and discharged. The primary purpose of discharging a CRT is to create a reliably safe environment to continue service. It should also be noted that some CRTs will self discharge due to the bleeder resistor but do not assume anything (parts fail, so do bleeder resistors) so it is recommended that you always discharge your CRT to prevent harm to you or the computer.
Why is there hot glue on the 4700 uf capacitor - heat transfer? Great video!
Thanks for watching and for your kind comment! Hot glue is used to keep the capacitor stable and not vibrating on its legs. The heat transferred to the cap while hot glue is applied isn't enough to cause concern. There's actually more heat transferred throughout the cap when you solder it in. Anyway, too much vibration or movement of the cap on its legs can shorten its life or even potentially cause leaks of the fluid electrolyte inside.
Do you have any specific recommendations for recapping a Mac SE FDHD? I've been searching all over for a Mouser list for the SE FDHD (like what you have for the SE/30). Thanks!
I assume you are referring to the motherboard? (I have recapping videos on the analog board and SONY power supply.) I've not made an SE motherboard recapping video only because I don't have an SE motherboard. (The SE/30 board, which I do have, is very different.) Mouser Lists on these boards are hard to find because they take so much effort to put together. I do that for others because as an electrical engineer, I actually understand what I am doing and I know it helps most people who otherwise wouldn't know which capacitors to choose.
I believe the SE board has 11 "axial" aluminum electrolytic capacitors. You should confirm that on your motherboard. The capacitance and voltage rating should be printed on each of those capacitors. Measure the DISTANCE between the circuit board holes, and then measure the LENGTH of the axial capacitor's body (in millimeters). With that information, you can rather easily find replacement "axial aluminum electrolytic" capacitors on Mouser, since Mouser will show you the body length of the axial capacitors. Get the same capacitance and voltage rating. If you can't find the right voltage rating for the capacitance you need, use a higher voltage rating but keep in mind that will make the body bigger and possible longer. All said, if the body length of a replacement capacitor is longer than the distance between the 2 holes where the legs need to do, don't buy that as a replacement. The key to choosing good replacements is to make sure they fit properly.
Be aware that some older axial capacitors are impossible to find in axial versions now, so you would need to use radial caps instead. In most cases, the legs of radial caps should be long enough to fit the leg holes of axial capacitors, but I would suggest using some heat shrink tube on the legs of radial capacitors, since you don't want bare wire dangling over the circuit board. You don't have to worry about that if you can find all "axial" replacements. You could just use all radial replacements but that looks tacky. Try to find axial replacements if possible.
If you give it a shot but are worried or confused about your replacement capacitor selection, just let me know and would be happy to help.
I shoot film. I just shot some of the re introuced Ektachrome Super8 from Kodak and had a 4K scan done. I love 4K. I just bought a Pioneer 4K Blu-ray burner for my computer. Which software do you use to edit your video? What camera do you use? Your filming skills are outstanding, and the editing is great. I wish more people would do the quality job that you do. Thank you so much. I can tell you take pride in your work.
I truly am humbled by such kind words, thank you. I used a Panasonic GH5 mounted on a tripod to shoot the video in 10-bit HLG (to maximize dynamic range and be allowed to grade to my hearts content in post). I used a cheap Purple Panda LAV mic I bought off Amazon for the audio, and the background music at the end is free, no attribution music from the TH-cam music library. I used the Leeming HLG LUT to do the conversion from Rec.2020 HLG to Rec.709. I edit in the latest version of Apple's FCPX on a late 2015 5K iMac 27" (top end model with maxed out specs). I put my footage on an external USB SanDisk 2TB SSD to have enough space to transcode all the footage to ProRES (for smooth playback in FCPX). If you're a Mac user, I have a couple screencast videos here on TH-cam about how to use FCPX with different GH5 profiles like HLG.
With that said, I'm not a "professional" TH-camr in that I make no money whatsoever off TH-cam and therefore have no financial incentive to buy the necessary lighting and other gear required to make the stunning videos you see from the (what I call) "million dollar TH-camrs" here. I call them that because they really do make a lot of TH-cam, which is their main business. I am a hobbyist who does this for enjoyment as much as helping others. I try to make videos I wish somebody else had made for me. That is my incentive to do the best job I can.
It would be nice if I had some professional lighting. That's what I would really like. But I really can't afford that now. All the lighting you see in my Analog Board Recapping video was fluorescent lighting from a circular overhear light and fluorescent lighting from off my work bench. I also used a very large, white reflector opposite the bench (on my right side in the video where I am sitting in that chair) to reflect light onto the right side of my face. Even then it still wasn't enough (which is where pro lighting would help), so I needed to duplicate those clips in FCPX and use a gradient mask to brighten the right side of me more. Since I shot in 10-bit, you can't really tell I did such an edit. I tried to make it look as if there was a light on my right side, and I think I pulled it off well. The closing remarks was better than the opening remarks in that regard, especially because I shot the closing remarks straight on whereas the opening remarks were shot a bit at an angle toward my workbench.
If you have other questions, don't hesitate to ask. And thanks for watching!
Forgive me if it was mentioned in the notes but if you can not source the physical book for purchase, it has been dutifully scanned and ready to be borrowed at the beautiful Internet Archive, The identifier for this book is macclassicse00larr and the current link for the book can be found here. archive.org/details/macclassicse00larr. Of course this would be the book "Mac classic & SE : repair and upgrade secrets" by the author Larry Pina who is know for his now classic Macintosh repair books. The book cover was mentioned at the 47th second in the video you are currently watching, you can skip to it by clicking on th-cam.com/video/zr_Q4bGI_qY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks get video
isn't it frustrating when you work so hard to put together a good video and then Google tells you that the average viewing time is a fraction of the length - normally no more than 8-12 minutes... Sad! :) Thanks for the video!
If I created entertainment videos, I could better understand it. But I create a lot of instruction videos without much cruft, so if someone skims around too much, watching only 8-12 minutes of a 1 hour video, they inevitably will have missed many important things and eventually ask questions in the comments section which are actually answered in the video. That, to me, is the most frustrating part. But it's also the nature of TH-cam. It's temptation combined with human nature. So much content. So little time. People skim and watch bits and pieces so as to get the thrill of having "watched" so much content. But in the end, the content really wasn't watched in full. And it seems that the younger you are, the more you skim. My 19 year old daughter skims like mad! :-) I skim rarely, and only to get beyond the off-topic cruft in some videos, so as to get to the heart of the matter and see (in an instructional video) what it is that I really need to learn.
@@JDW- Your videos are extremely well made from any point of view - the lighting, the editing, the sound, the cameras. I know for experience how long that takes (and my videos are nowhere near what you deliver here) so it's even more frustrating I guess.
What you say is correct. What annoys me a bit is that if I made a 5 minutes video throwing my Macintosh down a staircase, I would probably have more views (I am referring to a video of someone throwing his PS5 down a staircase which has - surprise surprise - 1.1Million views). Either something is wrong or I am getting too old! :)
Anyways, thanks for the lovely video(s)!
@@tony359 Thank you for your kind words, Tony. Sad but true... Throwing a vintage Mac down stairs really would get tends of thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of views in perhaps a week's time. It's pure meaningless shock value only. But keeping it in perspective, those are basically throw-away views and throw-away subs because those people won't be back when you release a "good" video. Those viewers were only excited for a brief moment and then flew away to some other channel which provides even more shock value. I suppose you could keep those views if you transformed your channel into a "Let's Destroy Valuable Old Computers" channel, but if you're like me, you won't ever do that! 🙂
On my tiny channel, I think most of the subscribers are geeks like me who really want to see a 1 hour instructional video. These are people who keep coming back.
The issue then becomes, What kind of people subscribe to the bigger TH-cam tech names like 8-bit Guy? Are those 1 million+ viewers and subscribers Geeks who keep coming back, or are they throw-aways? As per the fact his view count remains very high for each video he releases, it would seem a large percentage of those subs are true Geeks who love the content and who anticipate and enjoy every new video. And that naturally leads smaller channel owners, like you and me, to speculate about what we need to do to garner the attention of those viewers and subscribers. I haven't found out the secret to that. It seems like just becoming a bigger channel automatically brings those people in droves over to you. And yet, how do you get to become big? Chicken and Egg problem.
I have a day job and am not a full time TH-camr. As such, I don't think too deeply on this topic. It would make me depressed if I did. It's more of a labor of love than anything else. And that is why I am truly overjoyed that you got something out of this particular video on the subject of Analog Board Recapping. The fact that you viewed the video and got something great from it makes it all worthwhile for me.
I wish you a great day, Tony! And best of luck to you on your channel!
@@JDW- Your videos helped me with my SE restoration (I have a video coming up soon). I learnt a few things from them and also discovered Tinker Different where I discovered the ADB adaptor PCB and - in turn - the ADB PIC replacement. You could say that my SE is back up and running thanks to you (also my Floppy is much more happy after using the grease you recommended on the plastic!)
@@tony359 That's truly wonderful to hear, Tony. Thank you for kindly letting me know!
Hello James, I ordered your Mouser cart for this and when it came down to replacing C21 which is which is the green one at the very top of your screen that was pulled the cart did not contain a C21, it did however include a C24(label on the bag) same as C13. When I looked all over the board I cannot find a C24. I am assuming this is a typographical error?
Paul, I am truly sorry for my delayed reply. I moved on May 25th, and I deliberately ignored most of my email until just now. Rest assured there are no mistakes. You simply misread the C21 label. C21 is the tiny 0.1µF ceramic capacitor which needs no replacing. The C24 marking is merely covered by the fan wires on your analog board. Lift the wires and you will see C24 printed directly above the electrolytic cap you need to swap out. And yes, C24 = C13 in terms of capacitance. The stock caps had different voltage ratings, but that doesn't matter on this board, which is why the same cap is used for C13 as C24. I hope this helps!
You can also jam in a replacement wire 4-pin choke. They are still made.
Thank you for the tip. Have you personally tried the replacement choke you spoke of? Please feel free to post the URL to the exact choke you are talking about. You can do that by NOT typing the HTTP part, and spell out all the dots and slashes. Otherwise stupid TH-cam will zap your post into oblivion. Thanks!
@@JDW- not for the Mac (yet). But I am doing the new Vicky Twenty build and it uses a nearly identical choke which I bought new. I will post the exact part and link for Mac tomorrow. I believe the 2 machines also share the same 4-pin bridge rectifier, NTE166 I think. Will check on that tomorrow also.
I will attempt the SE Reloaded build next so when I'm done I'll post my final BOM. I believe most of the "chicklet" style film caps can also be replaced with much smaller compact square ones. TDK makes loads of them of various sizes with insane life's - like 200,000 hours.
Might be a noobish question, but can one do a smoke test without connecting a logic board and/or screen? Thanks for the video, btw! Great resource.
I appreciate your question. The answer is no in that there’s no simple way. To adequately test the analog board, you need to test the flyback transformer using some kind of CRT, and I would not advise trsting on any CRT other than the one specifically made for use inside compact Macs. The SONY power supply, in comparison, can be tested by itself easily with nothing attach, as shown in my recapping video on that. Just triple check all of your replacement capacitors on the analog board to ensure the polarity is correct, and you should be fine when you switch on the power with everything connected.
I believe you can even use isopropyl alcohol to loosing hot glue from the surface.
Yes, that has been suggesting by a couple other people too. It's the best idea of all, actually. Thanks, Alex.
Very thorough video, thank you. I ordered your mouser basket recently and was surprised to discover that C15 came with crimped legs that are too short to perform the installation that you show. Upon reviewing the available film capacitors and their listed specifications on mouser, I think that the correct part may be 667-ECW-FD2W395JC. Note that the pictures which mouser shows "for reference only" do not necessary align with the specifications, which should be taken as the primary source of truth.
I also noted that C18 in your video is different to the part listed in the mouser cart. I expect that this is due to the availability of parts, however the replacement part for C18 in the cart is a radial capacitor. Is there any reason for this or should this be an axial part? Thank you again for the video and the trouble of putting together the parts list.
I sincerely apologize for the error. What happened was that about a year or so ago, someone informed me of C15 being out of stock (silly Mouser always does that, and it drives me crazy!). If you look at my video at 6:23, you'll see the part number original in my Cart was ECW-FD2W395J, which has straight, long legs. When searching for a replacement though, I overlooked the fact the chosen replacement had shorter legs. No one mentioned it since then. You are the first person you have kindly pointed out the error.
Again, I am very sorry for this. I have updated the Cart just now with a STRAIGHT LEG version, part number ECW-F2W395JA which is pretty much the same cap as the original I had chosen in my video, except this replacement is taller but isn't quite as wide, also with 5% tolerance. And while the data sheet doesn't make it crystal clear the legs are straight, the following drawing makes it abundantly clear:
industrial.panasonic.com/content/data/CP/PDF/wfa2w_a_e.pdf
Of course, this doesn't help you, since you aren't going to pay for shipping again only for a single cap. So what you will unfortunately need to do is mount another capacitor onto your Analog Board and when you cut off the legs after soldering it down, take the cut-off part of one leg and solder that to one of the legs on your film cap, then bend a route the legs as shown in my video. That will work, although I do admit it's troublesome. Again, it's my fault for the oversight, and I am terribly sorry for the trouble it has caused you!
@@JDW- Hi and thanks for the reply. "ECW-F2W395JA" as a part number returns a number of results on mouser. I suggest you nominate "667-ECW-FD2W395J" on the cart. Also, part "594-2222-138-21229" would be better than the currently listed part at C18, for reasons that TH-cam's comment system may have chopped off in my comment above. And no apologies are necessary, I'm very grateful for the video. Learning and discovery is a great part of restoring a Mac, so finding part numbers changing is just another part of the journey. Thank you again for all of the work you put into these videos.
@@buckleyj5 The Mouser Cart in question is here: bit.ly/37metyA
If you view the cart, you will see the Mouser P/N for Capacitor C15 is "667-ECW-F2W395JA" and the Manufacturer P/N is "ECW-F2W395JA". So when searching on Mouser for the specific part number, using the Mouser P/N in the search would eliminate similar parts from appearing.
Separately from that, I show C18 at 35:05 in my video, and as you can see, I am using the same part you recommended, Mouser P/N "594-2222-138-21229". But the interesting thing is, as you see in my video, the part looks more like a Tantalum Axial than an electrolytic, even though the part description shows it to be an electrolytic. Perhaps a solid tantalum was shipped to me by mistake? Even so, if I search Mouser today for axial leaded Tantalum capacitors, the smallest body length is 17.42mm (and leads will jut out from there), and the lowest price is a whopping $12.20 for 1pc! So it's clear that Tantalum isn't a serious consideration as a replacement here.
I will swap out the radial-leaded C18 a bit later today in the Mouser Cart for the aforementioned Axial part.
Your book sells from 120 to 600 Euros at Amazon germany! However, luckily someone has digitized and uploaded it to archive.org.
Hi! I have a question regarding 58:47 - Screen Width Adjustment.
I have no screw to turn in my width adjustment for some odd reason. Do you have any suggestions on how I could fix this? Can this component be replaced?
That’s odd. Would it be possible for you to post a link to a photo of that component so I can more clearly see what is missing?
By the way, the transistor, not sure if a PNP or NPN which is against the heat sink surrounding the flyback transformer, at 5:44 into the video, seems like it's thermal pad is slightly warped.
The BU406 as shown here, yes: bit.ly/3BG6z4u
I need to check that later. Thanks for noticing, Alex!
I've followed both videos (PSU and analog board) and I seem to have a problem with my Mac SE. The PSU gives out the appropriate voltage to the analog board. The analog board spins the fan and appears to have the proper voltage on the cable that goes to the motherboard. However, what I'm noticing is that when I plug in the analog board cable to the motherboard, the fan stops working and there is no start up chime. When the analog board is on (without being connected to the motherboard) there should be some type of static charge indicative of an "ON" display, correct? If so, I'm not feeling that. Any idea what might be going on? Thanks so much!
Krishna, these problems are frustrating, so I can sympathize. You definitely need to stop switching on power and investigate further though because it's clear you are getting a short circuit somewhere. If the fan stops working, I am going to assume your 12V line and perhaps the 5V line are dropping to near zero due to some kind of short. Since you said all is well until you connect the motherboard, it's clear the short is on the motherboard. Have you cleaned up leaked capacitor fluid and recapped the motherboard? If you saw smoke or see burn marks or smell something bad on the motherboard, it's clear components or traces were burned, and that may be more challenging to fix. I'm not saying it's impossible, but look for that.
@@JDW- I haven't recapped the SE's motherboard and, like you have instructed, I've left off any RAM so as not to damage those components as well. I don't see any damage to the motherboard (at least visibly) nor have I smelled anything that would indicate a fried component on the motherboard. For now, I've got the Mac fully taken apart. If the motherboard is not connected but the CRT is connected to the analog display, is there something that would give me any indication that it is "ON"? I don't see / hear anything that would indicate that the picture tube is getting power. Thank you so much for such a speedy response!
@@KrishnaDraws The SE cannot technically "turn ON" without a motherboard, but you can check voltages. For example, connect a HDD cable to the analog board, then connect your voltmeter's black probe to ground and the red probe to any pin in that connector, then power on and probe each pin. See if you get a solid 5V and 12V there. If you do, then nothing is pulling down the power supply.
@@JDW- I tried this earlier. Without the motherboard, the HDD cable is indeed pulling down the correct voltage from the analog board. So my suspicions are leaning towards the motherboard now. I was super concerned it might have been something on the analog board that came about while recapping it. New motherboard caps are on their way. In the meantime, is it wise (advisable) to measure the voltage going to the yoke from the analog board?
I would not recommend measuring that high-voltage. Instead, discharge your CRT and then use an ohmmeter to verify if the flyback transformer T1 is good. See the top of page 17 of the following PDF which talks about that. www.ccadams.org/se/classicmac2.pdf
I’m a millennial and I watched the whole video!
Mason, I humbled and grateful that you not only made the time to watch the entire 1 hour and 18 minutes but that you followed up your viewing with a wonderful comment too! You may be surprised to know that the average viewing duration for this video is only 10 minutes and 8 seconds! So you are clearly special. Now for some Brownie Points! :-)
www.brainlesstales.com/images/2015/Mar/brownie-points.jpg
Just an FYI, at the 58-59 minute you began a horizontal and vertical adjustment and I can tell you with assurance that there is a book by Apple, part of their old service books, not the take apart manuals that are all over the internet - in one of those books there is a reference for the height and width of the screen measured in metric or imperial.
If you are interested, I am sure you are, please refer to this search result on archive.org, archive.org/search.php?query=Macintosh%20se%2F30%20horizontal&sin=TXT or search for "Apple Service Technical Procedures Macintosh Family"
Thank you for the link. One thing I have found when looking at photos or videos of the CRT of compact Macs posted by my fellow vintage Mac enthusiasts is that they most often adjust the width and height to eliminate the black bars (margins) surrounding the display. But in fact it is correct to have those black bars. Furthermore, the display should be wider than it is taller, and when you draw a perfect square on the display in a graphics program with the shift key held down, you should be able to measure it with a ruler and verify it is a perfect square. That’s the general rule of thumb we should follow to get the screen back in the stock condition.
@@JDW- Indeed, the black border is by design.
I think we should bring CRT’s back into production
I agree, but even more important than that is the flyback. We need those newly made today, selling for $50 or less. Far more people need the flyback than the CRT, and I suspect making the CRT's today would be very costly due to the small quantity being required. It's not like someone could afford to make 10,000pcs, nor would such a quantity even be needed.
Hi All, I am also recapping an SE/30 analog board. But I am confused regarding C24 (220uF 16V) If you look at it closely the polarity is the otherway around. The + symbol is on the negative path of the board. If you check with a continuity tester you'll see that the + sign is on the negatiove path of the board. And the capacititor is originally connected with the positive pole to the negative path. Is this correct or is this a flaw from fabric all these years ???
EDIT: nevermind, I just found the schematics of the analog board and it is by design that the plus is connected to ground for C24
I found out why using an Allen Wrench is a bad tool to use for screen alignment. It got extremely hot in a few seconds and burned my fingers. In retrospect I guess it makes sense considering I'm essentially just shoving it into an induction coil. On the bright side my screen is now properly adjusted.
I’m pleased to hear you didn’t hurt yourself or damage your Analog board with that metal tool. But for future adjustments you really need to buy a set of plastic tools for the job.
Just a curiosity : I restore old synthesisers as hobby and I usually found shorted or exploded tantalium caps, they are like a cancer for old electronic boards. Do you think the ones you are using on the Se/30 are more reliable or is just a question of time?
That depends on the working voltage of the circuit and the voltage rating of those tantalum capacitors. I explain that in detail in the following video:
th-cam.com/video/6PKaj9-1xIs/w-d-xo.html
@@JDW- AHHHHH thanks!
Nice, I'm an amateur concerning soldering. This is a no go area for me. But very informative! My SE/30 motherboard got recapped but my screen is still wobbly/twitchy. What do you think - does the analog board need a recap as well? The guy that did the (great) recap job on the motherboard isn't keen on doing high voltage stuff unfortunately.
Thank you for watching and for your kind words. The Analog Board absolutely needs to be recapped as well. But a wobbly screen can also be the result of either a bad flyback transformer, or it could just be that you simply need to resolder the connectors on the Analog Board, especially the 4-pin connector that leads from the Analog Board to the CRT yoke (the part on the CRT where all those copper wires are wound around it). Resoldering is the easiest thing to try, so please give that a shot first and see if it helps.
@@JDW- Thanks! I've been asking around at the RMC Discord channel. And the suggestion was made to reflow the joints first. Check if everything is alright. And then maybe do a recap. I found someone who can help me but is a three hour drive away from me. So just to be safe I'm asking him to reflow and recap it. I've been looking at your BOM to provide him with the necessary caps but I know that there are different versions of the board. So there is a chance I need other caps than the one's on your board? Thanks again :)
@@tekk9995 if you only need to recap the analog board, then the Mouser cart in the text description under my video is all you need.
@@JDW- Thanks :) I just put in the order. Not all is in stock due to the well known global shortage. But it's a start. And you made it happen :)
@@tekk9995 Mouser constantly lets parts go on backorder, and that was true before COVID-19. Sorry about that. I lack the time to keep all my Mouser Carts filled with in-stock parts, but I do update them when people alert me to the fact something is on backorder. Did you substitute the backordered parts yourself or just place the order without the backordered parts?
Thans for the video. I've seen some people suggest that electrolytic caps should be replaced with tantalum caps. I have no idea why (except for the presumption that 20 years from now the new caps will fail like the old ones did). Do you have any advice on using tantalum capacitors?
Thank you for your question, Cory. My video above is about the Analog Board, so you won't be able to use Tantalum caps because Tantalums don't come in huge capacitance sizes nor have very high voltage ratings like some of these caps require. Solid tantalums also need to be rated for a much higher voltage than the maximum working voltage so that a voltage spike won't light them afire! That's not to say Tantalums are unsafe. Indeed, I use them to recap SE/30 motherboards. But they have there place in lower capacitance and lower voltage applications. The Analog Board is a very different beast. And while you could use some polymer caps for the smaller caps on the analog board, I would advise against it because this is a switching power supply. Sometimes if you use a very low ESR capacitor like a polymer cap in a switching power supply, it can cause instability.
All said, I have put together the Mouser Cart inside the text description above with all this in mind. I get no kick-backs for that Cart. I just provide it for convenience, and since I am an electrical engineer, I selected those caps properly. That doesn't mean you cannot use other aluminum electrolytic capacitors other than what I have chosen. Indeed you can. But the point I am making is that you would need to use aluminum electrolytic for most of the Analog Board caps, except for the RIFA boxes, which I have separately linked for you in the text description.
I hope this helps!
@@JDW- Thanks for clarifying. Yeah, I'd like to avoid creating a condition that causes the tantalums to pop. I had one go in my Commodore 1541 and it reeked my office for what seemed like days. I think I'm inclined to just stick with the same basic tech that Apple used originally. They'll almost certainly last as long as I have the Mac, and the next person who gets my ancient gizmos will have to do another recap job regardless, since there will always be at least some electrolytic caps.
I REALLY appreciate the saved Mauser carts. Browsing the catalog of the big electronic component storms is bewildering so that helps. Surprisingly, console5.com actually has cheaper prices on cap kits than the current prices of what are in your saved carts, but that's only true if you buy the caps one project at a time. I'm going to do a cap inventory of a whole bunch of retro devices before placing a whopper of a cap order, and hopefully save some money in the process.
Suggestion: A "mega" cap cart for the entire SE/30 that includes the motherboard, PSU, and analog board would be even handier.
@@coryengel I will consider putting together a Mega cap cart. It takes me a while to put those carts together because as an electrical engineer, I scrutinize every last capacitor specification before I select it. Carts also cost me time in the long run, because inevitable Mouser runs out of stock and doesn't tell me, then a viewer tells me, then I need to visit Mouser, pick a replacement capacitor, and update the Cart. Mouser has no affiliate program either, so my Carts bring me nothing monetarily. I simply do it as a labor of love. I do that because I'd want somebody else to do that for me.
As to Console5 being cheaper, I do not wish to bad mouth anyone. Rather, I simply need to state the fact that a cheaper price indicates a cheaper capacitor. Mouser really isn't jacking up the price of their caps. You can find dirty cheap Chinese caps even on Mouser. I choose only the trusted brand names like Nichicon, Panasonic, etc. Superior caps with superior specs cost more. That's especially true of the "hour rating," which tells you how long a cap will last at a given temperature.
All said, I think the old adage "you get what you pay for" rings true here. That's not to say Console5 caps are bad or will fail very quickly. It's only to say that the big brand name caps will be reliable in the long run, and you will have a "long run" with them too. It would be nice if Console5 showed the brand and specs of all their cap kits, but they don't. I think that means they swap out brands and specs as inventories change.
I hope this helps!
@@JDW- After struggling with Mouser's website for a while, not only to identify the motherboard caps for which you don't yet have a Mouser cart assembled, but also because I wanted to get caps for a IIgs and an Atari 2600 at the same time, I decided to bail out and just go with Console5.com's pre-assembled kits which seem to be composed of respected brands. In the end I concluded that unlike some device components like rubber belts and wheels for tape decks, the assembled kits actually cost less than Mouser unless one is buying in large quantities. (Rubber kits always cost FAR more than bulk belt assortments, and the kits are not always high quality.)
Also findvideo and discharge tool resistor calculator at probesdifferentresistance
Thank you for sharing what you decided to do.
What were the capacitor brands you received from Console5?
So I found the manual that specifies the CRT (display) Size Adjustment Procedure for the Mac and Mac Plus which should be the same for the SE/30
You can find it on archive.org, search for APPLE_MACINTOSH_SERVICE_GUIDE_VOL1_1990.pdf and refer to page 10
Size Adjustment Procedure
1. Use the plastic alignment tool to adjust the width until the raster is approxi-
mately 7 inches wide.
2. Use the alignment tool to adjust the height until the raster is approximately 4.7 inches high.
Tangentially, page 8 of the same Apple manual has a section titled "Tilt Adjustment procedure". In step 4 of the procedure it states on bold "(Do not move the magnets, which are preset by the manufacturer and should not be adjusted.)"
I should add that this size adjustment can also be found in the Macintosh SE/30 Service Source in the Adjustments section, (the page is labeled "Video - 11" )
I mention the twistable magnets at 1:00:58 in my video. You normally do not want to twist them unless you have CRT display distortions that cannot be remedied by other means. The thing that you typically need to “twist“ is the yolk collar. I mentioned that at 59:23.
What was the replacement flyback transformer you used? Can you share a part number/vendor?
Part number is shown on the label at 2:35 in my video: 157-0042-C.
Also be sure to watch the Bad Flyback section of my other video to see what a bad flyback can sometimes look like in a dark room: th-cam.com/video/Ng8F_QVgaTc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks. That’s a tough part to source here in the US.
@@james_lockman It's tough anywhere in the world these days. I too cannot find that part number anywhere, but there are some on EBAY that are a different shape but will work. The problem is price. You pay more for the flyback than a vintage Mac! So many people are buying vintage Macs to harvest the flyback transformers. Problem is, you cannot always know if the flyback is good on a used machine. Anyway, here is some useful info: forums.macrumors.com/threads/flyback-transformer-for-mac-plus-1mb.2241496/?post=28569239#post-28569239
Looks like a great book. Too bad I cannot find it anywhere. 😞
If you are referring to the Larry Pina book, links are provided for you in the text description under the video. I packed it full with other useful info too.
Nice video, I appreciate the info. Technically I'm a millennial, from my perspective, I'm guessing people drop off after 8 minutes because they're not expecting such a thorough explanation. I click on all kinds of retro computer videos and I don't own 99% of the machines they're talking about, it's just an interest of mine, but this would just be far too long and in depth for me if I wasn't already looking for info on my specific computer.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts. What are the “1%” of vintage computers you do own? Commodore? Mac? Amiga? IBM PC?
@@JDW- 1% might be a bit misleading considering my machines are quite popular. I have a C64c, Apple IIc, Mac SE, and I recently bought an SE/30 hence my stumbling upon your videos.
Edit: After writing that and reading it back I just realized I have an affinity for computers that end with a "sea" sound. Lol
I think while having the power cord of seems like a good safety measure, doing so while discharging cut the connection to the ground. You need to ground your casing, or else you might still get shocked from the case? Or maybe the charge might even damage something in the computer? I am not a specialist. Just been doing things a bit differently and would be interested in others opinion on the matter.
Thank you for your comment. You do not need or even want the power cord connected to earth ground when you discharge. Seriously. You don't need it connected. So what's the harm? Technically, there is no harm UNLESS you accidentally flip on power while discharging. Then you have a big problem! So while it may seem counter-intuitive, it's actually safer to have the power cord disconnected while discharging compact Macs, especially because you DO NOT need the cord connected to earth in order to discharge the CRT. This is not just my opinion either. This is how it has been done since the 1980's and is the correct way to do it.
@@JDW- Yeah I know it's been always done like this, but I fail to see how this is safe for the hardware. When we run ESD testing, we can manage to fry stuff in surprising ways. The hardware must protect or not have sensitive chips or it must be that the metal of the casing has enough resistance to not let the charge do anything. That lives us with the question, where does that charge dissipates. Any ideas? I don't do this discharging with the power cords, but I ground it to the ground of my socket, not the floating ground of the casing.
Whenever you have resistance and current flow, you will have losses which often dissipate as heat. This is true of the discharge method for the compact Mac series. Search the following PDF for "ground lug" to jump to the right page and note the official method says to only discharge via the Ground Lug -- not anywhere else on the metal chassis: tim.id.au/laptops/apple/legacy/macintosh_plus.pdf
That specific spot is designed to pass discharge current through the path of greatest resistance, which will dissipate the voltage as heat. Of course, official Apple discharge tools had a resistor inside to make most of that heat dissipation be inside the discharge tool itself, but the same rule applies to a dead short method with no resistor at all.
The key to all this is to have the analog board still attached to the CRT yoke. If the yoke board is disconnected, you cannot discharge! In other words, current passes through the analog board too during discharge, and that discharge works without any earth ground because, again, it dissipates as heat through resistances in that particular circuit path.
It technically is possible to discharge using another point on the chassis, but apparently that might bring harm to the attached motherboard. However, if the motherboard is removed, then theoretically it should be okay to discharge via another ground point on the chassis. Even so, I stick with the ground lug method (with MB attached) and never have a problem, even without a resistor in my discharge tool, and with the power cord disconnected.
@@JDW- Thanks! That all make sense now!
I recently got a non-working Mac. I assumed it was just a bad hard drive, since it booted with the question mark disk icon. I cleaned and lubricated the floppy, which was seized by now works really well at receiving and ejecting (using the one floppy disk I still own that I found in an old box). Unfortunately, I do not have any system 6 disks. I replaced the hard drive with a SCSI2SD device, installed 6.0.8 to the SD card, and the machine now boots into MacOS!
The problem I'm now facing is that it does not seem to allow me to click anything, even though the mouse cursor moves. I'm using a newer Apple Design Keyboard and mouse, which are newer than the SE, but I thought any ADB mouse and kb would work. I was able to confirm the keyboard at least partially works, as if I hold down Command and Option at startup, it asks if I want to rebuild the desktop. I can then hit the enter key to have it do the rebuild. Again, the mouse can move, but clicking does nothing. Thoughts? A bad mouse? Symptom of bad capacitors on the analog board? Am I being an idiot about something else? I did try moving the mouse and keyboard between different ADB ports, but no change in behavior.
Any help would be appreciated!
In my experience, many Mac mice and keyboards have at least one electrolytic capacitor inside which can go bad. I remember my SE/30 once locked up at random until I swapped out the capacitor in the keyboard. But in terms of compatibility, ADB is ADB. So even if the mouse and/or keyboard are newer than the Mac you are using, so long as the capacitors inside those devices are good, and so long as the mechanical switch inside the mouse is good, those devices should work fine.
I should also mention that, although I have not tried it myself, many people have found success in restoring bad switches and corroded connector contacts by using DeOxit D5 spray. It's a contact cleaner and a contact restorer. It's also important to note it is the "D5" version I speak of, not DN5 or D100 or any of the other types. With that said, using that spray on the mouse switch (with the mouse disconnected of course) is not a 100% guarantee the spray will solve the problem, especially if the tiny metal part inside that mouse button switch is broken. But I mention the D5 spray because others have had success with it.
Lastly, when testing old Macs, it's always helpful to have more than one mouse and keyboard and other parts so you can do more effective troubleshooting when something goes wrong. I know it's a bother, but it really can come in handy. Please let me know if this information ultimately helps you solve the problem.
@@JDW- I certainly will let you know. I am working to find another mouse (I'd really prefer one that was a similar model to the one that came with the SE originally). That will at least narrow it down to the mouse. I certainly am regretting letting my old Mac and accessories go. :) Thanks again for all your help. Once I get it functional, my plan is to re-cap the analog board, although I'm a bit intimidated as I've never done anything that complex before - your video is the only reason I would even attempt it. Thanks so much for such a great resource!
@@mikewottle8893 Recapping the analog board is actually quite easy compared to recapping the motherboard. The caps on the analog board are big, thru-hole and haven't leaked fluid all over the place. With my video, you'll do just fine. Let me know how it turns out.
@@JDW- The replacement mouse cleared up my issue. I ordered the caps from Mouser with your list (thank you so much for compiling). Unfortunately, 4 caps (C2, C7, C22, C25) are back ordered until July and so I'm hunting for replacements. I found one here that might be a good replacement (guitarpedalparts.com/products/100uf-25v-nichicon-audio-grade-electrolytic-capacitor?variant=18956645564516¤cy=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjw6qqDBhB-EiwACBs6x4O8ngJgZq_IIX9oGmumtxDzB8hTGpiOrP1cKE9UaSw9Co2gMPChuxoCKXsQAvD_BwE). All other caps, as you said, were pretty easy to swap out.
I have similar burning on the 4 pin connector, so I'm considering replacing it. Tested the resistance of the two contacts and it seems to be OK.
I also replaced the hard drive with the SCSI2SD device mounted in the expansion slot with a 3D printed tray, making it really nice, since I can remove and replace the SD card if necessary without opening the case. I also created a new HD LED bracket to show drive access from the SCSI2SD
Waiting for my replacement fan as well to hopefully complete the restoration. Thanks again for such a great resource with so many details to make this possible. Also, I had never used the desoldering wick, and it makes removal so much easier!
@@mikewottle8893 the blue color of that "Nichicon" cap doesn't appear to be an audio version as per this:
www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/application/power/index.html
Might be a cheap Chinese knock-off, especially because they don't cite the exact part number, preventing you from finding the datasheet. I don't normally buy audio caps, and I always buy from Mouser which guarantees the source is genuine. Per your helpful comment, I have updated my Mouser Cart to replace the out-of-stock Nichicon with this one (same size & specs): www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/710-860040573004
Go to the archive.org and do a metadata search for Apple PN 072, some nice surprises there.
Specifically, this URL: archive.org/details/PN_072-0082_Apple_Service_Programs_Manual/page/n235
I found page 236 (archive.org page number) and later of special interest, as it shows Reseller prices compared with SRP. "Repair Extension Program" info at the back, starting on page 436, is also very interesting! Thanks for the tip!
While adjusting width and height of the screen, one could display some kind of test pattern that includes a circle. The circle, obviously, should be as round as possible. Maybe some kind of bitmap image?
The quality of your videos is really good, it just isn't popular stuff, so i guess you should either include boobs, explosions, aliens or gaming to rake in millions of subscribers ;). If you don't, you have to wait a bit more, right now the counter says 882.
I'm a lurker on 68kMLA since 2006, great resource ;).
Thank you for watching and sharing, Karsten. It's nice to have a fellow 68kMLA forum member here in the comments. The 68kMLA is indeed a great resource. I just hope they keep those resources properly backed up, unlike how they handled things in the past. Years of my own posts were lost in an instant when they had their drive crashes (more than once) over the years. Anyway... Boobs are out of my league, but I suppose I could including some vintage Mac gaming; and you probably have seen I actually have been ending some of my videos with a glimpse of that.
As to the display height and width adjustments, yes, I advise that people doing that should boot the machine, then launch a graphics program like Deneba Canvas 3.5 (my personal favorite on these old Macs), then hold down the Shift key and draw a perfect circle. You could add other objects too, it that helps. Canvas will allow you to fill the screen with your images. Then you can better get the height and width right. But for people who are lazy, you could just try to make the little flashing floppy icon at cold boot be a perfect square. That would get your display looking almost perfect, actually.
Karsten, thankfully TH-cam emailed me the content of your other message which you seem to have deleted. It's a useful tip and legally free too (works like a library card), so I added a link to the WayBack Machine in the text Description under my video above. I credited you for that tip too. Thank you. That will help many people!
@@JDW- The other message is still there. Anyway, if you search the title on 68kMLA you will find a link to the (low quality) PDF.
Found a copy on ebay spain for 30€, maybe i'll get it for my collection.
Karsten, I'm afraid that I cannot locate the "Mac Classic & SE Repair & Upgrade Secrets" PDF you said is on the 68kMLA, so if you know the direct URL for that, please post the URL for me in a follow-up comment. Some people may find that helpful. But in the end, I think the paper book would be 30€ well spent.
Why did you use a film type capacitor at C15?
Because C15 must be non-polarized and film capacitors are non-polar. It's also very hard to find non-polar aluminum electrolytic capacitors, and even if you did they will eventually leak and they have higher ESR and ESL than film capacitors too. Indeed, it would be wonderful if we could replace all the caps with film capacitors, but they film caps aren't available in all those sizes, nor are they cost effective. Note that there are already film caps on the motherboard and I didn't replace those. That's because they will last as long as the motherboard. I hope this info helps.
@@JDW- Thank you for the information, I actually ended up using your list to recap the analog board for my Macintosh SE FDHD. I am also thinking about doing the same for the logic board, but I am unsure if I really need to do that, considering the usage, I understand why on the analog board as it deals with power distribution. I also ordered a new fan from Mouser while I was at it, mine is a bit load, do you know what the specifications of the fan are? My original is a Sanyo, I'm particularly interested in the power draw, as I could not find that rating.
Motherboard recaps are actually the most important, and the only reason I've not done a video on that yet is because all my SE/30 motherboards are already recapped. Why important? Because the SMD caps on the motherboard leak, and that leaked fluid eats through traces over time. Also, diminished capacitance on the main board (due to leaking or dried out capacitors) can cause IC chips to experience voltage drops (yes, even with a recapped Analog Board and PSU), and that can cause random freezing when you are using the machine, assuming it even boots at all. Sometimes people will see horizontal lines or other artifacts at cold boot, even if the machine boots. Such is a tell-tale sign the motherboard needs to be recapped. And yes, ALL SE/30 logic boards now need to be recapped. Those little capacitors last only about 15-20 years. The SE/30 came out in 1989. It's a pain, but it needs to be done. If I ever get my hands on another SE/30 logic board or if someone donates one to the cause, I will do a recap video on that. But for now, you can find a lot of useful info in the 68kMLA forums, a link to which is provided in the text description under my video.
Sanyo and Elina were the stock analog board fan brands (for square "boxer" fans) and they draw only 55mA or so. Replacement fans draw more power, but such is not a problem for the analog board, so no need to worry about that. I replaced the fan in one of my analog boards with a SILENX IXP-34-16 which is 18CFM (see Amazon link below). It's very quiet, but to my hand it feels like it puts out a bit less air than the stock fans, so I think the stock fans must be on order of 20-24CFM. You can find those fans on Amazon, but I've never tried them and they might be about as loud as the stock fan, since more air usually results in more noise. If you are willing to experiment, I would suggest buying the SILENX and a 24FCM fan of the same size to test both. If you decide to do that, please let me know your test results. I've actually be thinking about doing that myself lately -- just have been too busy to do it. amzn.to/2FImnIi
@@JDW- You appear to know electronics really well. I have very limited knowledge. I don't know where to begin with this next comment but in essence is there a book that you can recommend, a book or a site or a TH-camr, or a Udemy course that covers basic electronics - just enough to get some basic knowledge? My main interest is indeed repairing old Macs and I am going to order a bunch of things on Mouser to do some major renewals on old machines and yes I do want to go right to the analog board and PSU units as well. It makes sense to do everything. Simply put, I would have no idea that film caps are non-polar and that you could use one instead of the original cap. Would you care to make a video on caps and measuring basic things using a multimeter? I really only know how to do continuity tests and measure caps I receive to check if they are ok, I don't remember how to do the latter off the top of my head, I would need to review this again. Seeing that you have much more knowledge than I in this area, would it interest you to consider a video on this topic? Thanks for considering!
@@santospoland I have a degree in electrical engineering. I am aware most people don't which is why I try to make videos that can help the average person accomplish what they otherwise would not on their own. Many people are afraid of even the basics like soldering. I want to help people get past that fear while at the same time inform about pitfalls and caveats. As to film capacitors, you cannot "always" use them in place of an original capacitor. There is no rule of thumb that says that. But in many cases you can, as in the case of the vintage Macintosh analog board. Most of the time though, film caps are not used only because of cost. When you need more capacitance, film caps become very expensive. They are most often used for high voltage applications where a small amount of capacitance is enough. I don't yet have a video dedicated to "making measurements," but my recent video on recapping the Apple Hard Disk 20SC shows a lot of measurements, using a handheld multimeter as well as an oscilloscope, which you can find here: th-cam.com/video/Qof-Wjj_rWI/w-d-xo.html
do you provide this service to paying customers??
No, and I’m sorry I don’t. The reason I don’t is because I’m located in Japan, and the two way shipping cost is prohibitive for most people. That’s really the main reason why. There might be people I can recommend to you though. In what country and state are you located?
@@JDW- Tks so much... Im in USA, Memphis TN, i love Japan... I spent part of my navy career in Atsugi and Sasabo...Tks for the help!
@@JDW- Please pass on a few techs to me...tks
The nearest and most reliable Mac repair person I know who could definitely do the job for you is located in Salt Lake City Utah. His name is JJ Dasher and his Facebook page is found here: m.facebook.com/DasherDeals/
1996- WHO JAMMED UP THE PRINTER AGAIN???
I don't know. Who?
JDW In 1996 when we had a smelly office in Missouri people clogged the toilet and jammed the printer. Phones ringing off the line. People complaining somebody stole a stapler. And the office had that HORRIBLE smell of coffee and xerox paper
Well, although my video won’t help you unclog a toilet, it certainly will help you get your vintage Mac’s analog board in top working condition again. :-)
JDW i have a powerbook 100 and powerbook 145b
If a kind soul ever donates either of those Apple notebooks to my channel someday, I certainly will do a detailed video overview of those great machines.