Thank you for providing feedback about music. I've really been curious what viewers think of that. You're the first person to ever comment on that topic, so I welcome your thoughts. Whenever I do use music , I always pull the volume down very low so it never gets too bothersome. It seems you prefer no music at all, even during the otherwise boring soldering parts (where I am not talking at all)? :-) I didn't want to delay this video so I didn't make time to add music there. I usually add music to the Intro and Outro. How do you feel about that? I really am curious what people think of music in my videos. Most of the musical selections I choose are free, no attribution Google Music Library tunes, which is why the music I do use isn't quite as catchy as some of the big name tech TH-camrs -- they pay a hefty sum monthly to get rights to use their selections. Using absolutely no music at all would save me a lot of time when putting my videos together, but it might made certain parts, like the Intro and Outro, a bit dull without it.
@@JDW- I loved the music and lightening speed at which you opened of the machine. I would have spent a minute more advising on the dangers of clearing out the charge on the CRT. Excellent video!
@@santospoland I did emphasize that more in earlier videos. The opening sequence was created from clips I shot for previous videos, actually. What I did this time was cut out some detail, accelerate the speed of those clips, and eliminated my voice-over and replaced it with music. It's hard making videos that please everybody, so my thinking behind this video was this: "Some people have seen my other videos and therefore they have seen this sequence. Rather than bore them with the same exact footage and voiceover, I will reuse the footage in a different way that will refresh their memory without boring them." The caveat is what you mentioned, but for folks who have seen the footage in my earlier videos, the dangers are already understood. Another reason I did it that way is because I didn't want to make that information a central part of my video seeing the main focus is really on the recapping. Anyway, that was my thinking behind it.
@@JDW- I've watched almost all your videos so I was certain that the intro was an edit of previous video. I would have done the same but would have mentioned a link or add some other visual queue to advise the viewer or recommend to the viewer that they watch the video on CRT discharge safety. As always thank you very much for the detailed reply and for your excellent video presentations.
@@santospoland I know. I also could have added music to the accelerated and more boring soldering parts too, but I made the creative choice to avoid that in order to finish my video faster. This video took longer than normal because as I embarked upon recapping with standard electrolytic capacitors, I decided to do something better -- I ordered Tantalum Axials from Mouser and needed to wait for that package to arrive! :-) I think it was worth it though. The purist will decry the fact the yellow tantalums don't look stock, but I actually think the tantalums look quite nifty. Indeed, if they were widely available and cheap back in the day, I have little doubt Apple would have used them. Electrolytics are cheap, which is why most manufacturers opt for those rather than tantalum. Tantalum gets a bad rap from folks who cite burning, but that only happens when the voltage spec is improperly chosen. As mentioned in my video, I chose 25V rated caps. The highest voltage will be 12V. Folks who are still worried can opt for the 35V parts since they are the exact same size, but I didn't use those only because they are more expensive and I feel confident 25V parts are safe.
Thank you for your kind words, Daniel. I won't make excuses for other YT tech channels, but I suspect they refuse to provide the convenience of a Mouser Cart because of the ongoing work required. You see, Mouser often lets parts go out of stock for long periods of time. When that happens, I need to swap out the component inside my cart. Sometimes that goes unnoticed until someone reports it. But despite the extra work, I do it because if I was watching a video on the subject of recapping, I would want to have a convenient way to purchase the required capacitors. In my mind, it's all a part of "do unto others as you would have done unto you" philosophy.
Recapping videos, you mean? :-) More are coming. Actually, I've been pondering my next video, which is going to be on good recapping advice in general. A Paypal contributor to my channel asked that of me. He wanted to know how to choose capacitors in the event I don't have a video on it or a capacitor list is unavailable. And honestly, I cannot buy every single vintage Apple device that exists, so that video will provide more help for folks who want to recap a vintage machine right now which I do not own.
Hi JDW. I've been watching your vids for a while and wonder why you don't have more subscribers. I am a member of the Australian Vintage Mac Facebook page and will start sharing some of your vids. Nice job.
Excellent video. I highly recommend heating the bent legs of the caps when you straighten them. If they are still stuck to the pad you may lift the pad of the PCB. Thanks for posting the mouser carts! very time-saving :)
Thank you for making time to let me know the, Jonathan. I really appreciate it. The 128K is fun, but even more fun with an external 400K drive. But for the ultimate in fun, you will need to get a 512K, which is basically what the 128K should have been. There's just so much software out there with requires more memory. The limited RAM is one big reason the 128K is frustrating when you only have the 1 internal drive. I really can be disk swapping hell. Two drives helps to mitigate that. But regardless of the negatives, enjoy that vintage Mac!
Not in my case, no. If it did, it would not have worked when my recapping job was complete. 🙂 But if you watch the entire video, you will hear me give everyone my personal recommendation to leave the existing legs and just clip off the body of the old cap, then solder the replacement cap to those leg stubs. That is fast, easy and induces less heat on the motherboard.
@@bartwaggoner2000 If you don't have a hot air station, it's REALLY hard to get thru-hole legs out of multi-layered motherboards. So doing what I recommend about the leg stubs is best for most people. Good luck!
Another handy tip when removing stubborn components on multilayer boards is to use a low temp alloy such as ChipQuik or SRA Fast Chip along with flux. This alloys with the existing solder and vastly lowers the melting point of the solder and it stays liquid for several seconds after removing the iron from it. This both allows you to have less iron time on the board to keep from cooking it and often letting stubborn parts fall right out of the board even with both legs covered in solder. You should be careful to remove all of it from the board after removing the component but it has made my life much easier replacing power jacks on laptops over the years.
Thank you for the kind dip, Ralph. To be honest, I’ve never used ChipQuik or SRA Fast Chip before. Based on your comments, my primary concern would be to “remove it all“ after the component has been removed. Due to the heatsink-style heat dissipation properties of these multilayered boards, and considering the small size of the thru-holes, I have doubts that all the ChipQuik or SRA could be removed. Please forgive my ignorance, but why does it have to “all” be completely removed?
@@JDW- Just going over it with wick until you get dry wick is sufficient. I have not had problems with it, but theoretically if a glob of it were left on the board that would lower the melting point of the new solder which could be bad in hi-temp applications.
Haven't watched the video yet, but I'm looking forward to it! I have a 512ke(first vintage Mac I got, back in 2004) that needs some love(and it has the Plus style keyboard, not sure if that's what it came with originally, or just was added later at some point between 1986 and 2004)
Tom, be sure to click SHOW MORE so you can read the text description because there's specific information for the Mac Plus extended keyboard and the mouse too. My mouse doesn't have caps, but apparently the Plus model did.
@@tombarber8929 Yes, please do check before you buy replacement capacitors. That applies to both keyboard and mouse. But in the text description I have provided links to the versions I know about. If you find you have something totally unique, I'd love to see a photo.
I don't have a Mouser Cart of ONLY the Axial capacitors, but I do have a Mouser Cart link on page 5 of my SE Reloaded BOM here: bit.ly/3MF7BA9 The axial caps are mentioned atop page 2 of that BOM. So what you can do is click the Mouser Cart link on page 5, then delete everything except the Axial Caps. Remember that C36 is 1uF while C4, C11/13/16, C26, C32/34, C37/38, & C62 are 33uF.
Hi JDW, thank you for the video. It is very useful and I like your precisity in the text description. Thank you. I'm just thinking, why are you not using solder sucker to remove the solder from the pins from the beginning? Does it have some expert reason? Did you find out why the second capacitor was so difficult to remove? I agree to cut off the capacitor's body is more efficient but a fill replace is much nicer. :-)
As you can see from 21:07, the solder sucker (pump) did not work. So it doesn't matter if it was used at first or later on in the process. A 350°C soldering iron isn't hot enough to heat the pads sufficiently to melt the solder inside the hole completely such that a pump will remove it. If you continue watching from that point, you will see I then used a professional Goot brand desoldering station (similar in quality and function to a Hakko brand station, since Goot is also a Japanese brand, purchased here in Japan). That too did not work, even when I boosted the temperature well beyond 400°C. The trouble you run into when heating beyond 350°C is that you can sometimes lift pads accidentally. The reason for the difficulty is this is a multilayered board. There is copper on top. There is copper on bottom. There is copper inside the board that you cannot see. That's a lot of copper, which is why it cannot be heated sufficiently to clear out the solder in the pin holes. I fully realize that some people may find success by heating the area with a hot air station -- a tool which I do not have. But since my videos are made for people who don't have the fancy tools, the technique I showed for the 3rd and final capacitor on the motherboard is the recommended approach. It's fast, easy and looks fine too to just clip off the old axial capacitor, then solder the new one onto the existing legs. Because this is a multi-layered board, the existing legs will stay rock solid in their holes even when you solder the new capacitor onto them. I could have done that for all 3 capacitors, but I think the video serves to show why you wouldn't want to try to fully desolder the existing cap. The longer you spend trying to fully remove a capacitor leg from these multi-layered boards, the higher the risk of damage to the board. I didn't damage traces on mine, but there were some small nicks and scratches that otherwise would not have happened if I had just clipped off the old cap and solder the new cap to the existing legs. In terms of aesthetics, if one thinks that fully removing the old cap and soldering the new cap into the holes "looks best," then it can also be argued that clipping off the old cap and soldering onto those remaining legs also looks good too insofar as there would be no nicks and scratches on the PCB in that case. In other words, the overall aesthetics are about the same either way. So one might as well go the easy way, I say.
@@JDW- Thank you very much your proper explanation. I had similar conclusion at the end (I watched the video two times, to observe the details) as you very good summarized: it is more safe to cut off the old caps and “just” solder to the legs the new ones. First I’ve thought to use some more carefull solution to suck away the solder is the reason, and honestly did not think about the thermal spreading what inner layers can do. Thanks again for the whole explanation, hopefully it will be clean for everybody: inner layers are the tricky parts not the surfaces top and bottom layers. Good lession, thanks for it. :-)
Hi JDW, I stumbled across your really helpful tutorials after recently buying an original (not working/for parts) 128k Macintosh (US made) model M0001 with 120v power board. It came with a British keyboard M0110B and mouse so all intact. I have managed to recap the main unit and give it a total overhaul but my question is around the keyboard and possibly software. The keyboard had a few dead keys but I pulled all the switches, cleaned a desoldered them. They are now working fine but there are some weird stings going on with the phasing/typing? i.e. if I press return I get / and if I press 'c' I get a 'v'. I am not sure but I think it may have something to do with the keyboard being seen as a US one and not a Brit one. If you have any advice I'd be extremely grateful : ) Great and highly informative videos BTW. I find them invaluable when doing my fixes. Thank you in advance, Leigh
@@JDW- Wow, thanks for such a swift reply first of all! I should begin by saying that my knowledge of the Mac OS began in about 1990 so going back further for me means reading and learning some ancient history. Forgive me but I just need to clarify a couple of things: 1. The system is 100% based on the floppies and is never installed or even temporarily 'held' on internal memory, correct? 2. The internal battery is missing and (if like later Macs) only keeps the clock going, so has no bearing on the Mac/system function, correct? 3. The keyboard type is not 'factory matched' to the main unit? i.e. it's not dependent on a certain motherboard type or, anything else to do with the hardware. Currently, all I have is a single system back up floppy of (I think it's System 2). The Finder is 1.1g, the version of MacWrite is 2.20 and MacPaint is, well it says the disk is full and won't give any more info. I did try using MacWrite and key caps but I'm not entirely sure what I'm hoping to see when using it, as the floppy version of KeyCaps shows the US layout not the Brit layout. I am assuming this is where most of the issue lies as the US layout appears to have less keys/keys in different places. Nearly all the keys now respond to them being pressed (except the return, space bar and / ) and I have circuit tested to make sure of connectivity, so I know there's at least that's fine. Below is an accurate list of what is happening when keyed: § = ' return = doesn't do anything ' = return \ = z z = x x = c c = v v = b n = m , = . . = / / = nothing space bar = nothing in MacWrite (although spacebar types a box in KeyCaps) -^- to right of space bar (control key maybe?) = space I'm coming to the conclusion I need to find some other old system disks and try those. I really appreciate you taking the time to help here. Thanks again!
@@leighsmith911 The operating system is always loaded into memory from the floppy disk. The lack of an internal battery affects more than just the clock. The tracking speed of your mouse and other things in the general control panel are saved when you have a battery and lost without it. Those batteries are sold on Amazon USA and I post a link to them in the text description under many of my videos, but I am not sure about other Amazons outside the US. I cannot find the British version of the control panel you need anywhere, which has an impact on your keyboard. I have posted a question at the 68kMLA, but so far, after several hours of waiting, no one has yet to reply to me there. Perhaps they will tomorrow. 68kmla.org/forums/topic/58553-512k-weird-keyboard-issues/?do=findComment&comment=669998
Not a single person has replied, so I created a new thread on the 68kMLA here: 68kmla.org/forums/topic/62545-software-for-m0110b-ukbritish-edition-keyboard/
@@JDW- Hi again, Thanks for helping out here and for the battery info. I have seen these on Amazon but UK stock is fairly non-existent, I'll get one soon. I'll keep an eye on the 68k link too, thank you. I have since found another website with some downloads for pre system 7 stuff (Disk images) but it took a while. When I get time I'll try to see if a system 3 or 4 era disk will help. They must have had some universal updates to control panels by then ('86?) as more Macs were appearing in the UK by then too, I'm pretty sure. I have a feeling this was an early unit that was imported from the States and had a UK keyboard swapped out for the US one (probably when software was easier to obtain too!). Thank you.
Yes. It's called "Vanlandingham." If you expand the text description under my video and scroll down to the USEFUL INFORMATION section, you will see a link to it.
Hey there, the mouser linked for the 512k says some stuff in the cart is back ordered, these still the right parts to get right? Also do you have a link for the RIFA capacitor? Thank you!!
Thank you for letting me know. I have updated the Mouser cart so there are no more backordered items. If your question about the RIFA pertains to the one on the Analog Board, that is contained in the Mouser Cart I provide in the text description under my Analog Board video here: th-cam.com/video/Ng8F_QVgaTc/w-d-xo.html
@JDW- fantastic thank you!! I want to replace as many parts that should be replaced as I can but very new to understanding the compatible modern vs old caps and other components. These lists are a life saver. If you have any other that you'd suggest that would be supper helpful! Thank you again JDW-!!
Thank you for your kind words. You asked if I have any other capacitor lists, and the answer is that I do, depending on the configuration of your machine. For example, there are electrolytic capacitors inside floppy drives, and I have recapping videos about that, whether it be 400K, 800K, or 1.44MB. Floppy Drive Maintenance th-cam.com/play/PLNZ4qjMn-GHqrhYQMnoam-60tCEMctXGp.html
@JDW- oh great to know! I have the Sony drives. There are a little strange and not those thin ones. I will check on the exact number and serial name. Great to know!
Thanks for the tutorial! I picked up a 512k and a Mac Classic II from a former coworker who's husband had passed. Both start but throw sad mac errors. I figure I'll replace the caps to see what happens. Have you replaced any caps on a Classic II? Also, I finally pulled the trigger on an LCR meter and used your amazon link. I have many old computers/game consoles that need recapping.....
I have never recapped a Classic or Classic II because I don’t own either of those machines. However, I do know someone who has a video on that topic here: th-cam.com/video/F2mVgN945g0/w-d-xo.html
Hello! Is there any list of all analog board capacitors availble? I was going to recap my 512 and would like to see all of the capacitors I need to purchase. Thank you in advance!
Yes! Please simply scroll up and click SHOW MORE to expand the text description where you'll find a link to my ANALOG BOARD Recapping Video just under the INDEX, and in the text description under that video you'll find the complete Mouser Cart.
Other than the fact I normally do not do paid repair work because I lack the free time to do so, the primary obstacle is shipping cost, in light of the fact I am located in Japan and most likely you are not. If there are video issues, it means it is likely something on the analog board, although without a more detailed description of the problem, it's difficult to say where the problem lies. If you are in the USA, Thomas Andrews (Amiga of Rochester) or Steve Matarazzo (Mac84 on TH-cam) might be willing to accept your entire machine for repair. If you are in Australia, Bruce (Branchus Creations on TH-cam) does excellent work. And these aren't the only people. I highly recommend you join (1) Vintage Apple Macintosh Enthusiasts on FaceBook and (2) the TinkerDifferent forum so you can post the problem with your machine and excellent repair folks local to you can chime in about what it would cost for them to help you out with a repair. I hope this info helps!
![ROM-inator Kit Build & Review [Mac 128K, 512K & Plus]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CVClCLgBm6k/mqdefault.jpg)
![ROM-inator Kit Build & Review [Mac 128K, 512K & Plus]](/img/tr.png)
Great video and quality - and thanks for not laying music on the video... great stuff! :-)
Thank you for providing feedback about music. I've really been curious what viewers think of that. You're the first person to ever comment on that topic, so I welcome your thoughts.
Whenever I do use music , I always pull the volume down very low so it never gets too bothersome. It seems you prefer no music at all, even during the otherwise boring soldering parts (where I am not talking at all)? :-) I didn't want to delay this video so I didn't make time to add music there.
I usually add music to the Intro and Outro. How do you feel about that?
I really am curious what people think of music in my videos. Most of the musical selections I choose are free, no attribution Google Music Library tunes, which is why the music I do use isn't quite as catchy as some of the big name tech TH-camrs -- they pay a hefty sum monthly to get rights to use their selections. Using absolutely no music at all would save me a lot of time when putting my videos together, but it might made certain parts, like the Intro and Outro, a bit dull without it.
@@JDW- I loved the music and lightening speed at which you opened of the machine. I would have spent a minute more advising on the dangers of clearing out the charge on the CRT. Excellent video!
@@santospoland I did emphasize that more in earlier videos. The opening sequence was created from clips I shot for previous videos, actually. What I did this time was cut out some detail, accelerate the speed of those clips, and eliminated my voice-over and replaced it with music.
It's hard making videos that please everybody, so my thinking behind this video was this: "Some people have seen my other videos and therefore they have seen this sequence. Rather than bore them with the same exact footage and voiceover, I will reuse the footage in a different way that will refresh their memory without boring them."
The caveat is what you mentioned, but for folks who have seen the footage in my earlier videos, the dangers are already understood. Another reason I did it that way is because I didn't want to make that information a central part of my video seeing the main focus is really on the recapping. Anyway, that was my thinking behind it.
@@JDW- I've watched almost all your videos so I was certain that the intro was an edit of previous video. I would have done the same but would have mentioned a link or add some other visual queue to advise the viewer or recommend to the viewer that they watch the video on CRT discharge safety. As always thank you very much for the detailed reply and for your excellent video presentations.
@@santospoland I know. I also could have added music to the accelerated and more boring soldering parts too, but I made the creative choice to avoid that in order to finish my video faster. This video took longer than normal because as I embarked upon recapping with standard electrolytic capacitors, I decided to do something better -- I ordered Tantalum Axials from Mouser and needed to wait for that package to arrive! :-) I think it was worth it though. The purist will decry the fact the yellow tantalums don't look stock, but I actually think the tantalums look quite nifty. Indeed, if they were widely available and cheap back in the day, I have little doubt Apple would have used them. Electrolytics are cheap, which is why most manufacturers opt for those rather than tantalum. Tantalum gets a bad rap from folks who cite burning, but that only happens when the voltage spec is improperly chosen. As mentioned in my video, I chose 25V rated caps. The highest voltage will be 12V. Folks who are still worried can opt for the 35V parts since they are the exact same size, but I didn't use those only because they are more expensive and I feel confident 25V parts are safe.
Thank you so much for the mouser carts. I wish more channels would include those.
Thank you for your kind words, Daniel.
I won't make excuses for other YT tech channels, but I suspect they refuse to provide the convenience of a Mouser Cart because of the ongoing work required. You see, Mouser often lets parts go out of stock for long periods of time. When that happens, I need to swap out the component inside my cart. Sometimes that goes unnoticed until someone reports it. But despite the extra work, I do it because if I was watching a video on the subject of recapping, I would want to have a convenient way to purchase the required capacitors. In my mind, it's all a part of "do unto others as you would have done unto you" philosophy.
Thank you, this is very helpful. I've had trouble figuring out how to order stuff on Mouser, because of my newbieness!
@@ph2869 I have been told by other viewers that I should probably make a video about capacitor selection and how to use Mouser.
Cool! Keep them coming!
Recapping videos, you mean? :-) More are coming. Actually, I've been pondering my next video, which is going to be on good recapping advice in general. A Paypal contributor to my channel asked that of me. He wanted to know how to choose capacitors in the event I don't have a video on it or a capacitor list is unavailable. And honestly, I cannot buy every single vintage Apple device that exists, so that video will provide more help for folks who want to recap a vintage machine right now which I do not own.
Hi JDW. I've been watching your vids for a while and wonder why you don't have more subscribers. I am a member of the Australian Vintage Mac Facebook page and will start sharing some of your vids. Nice job.
Thank you for your kindness in doing so, JJ!
Those were great macs and I'll never forget them.Still wish I had mine. I loved it.
Great video, will be doing this asap as I've followed your analog board video aswell, brought my 512k back to life :)
Great video! helped me to recap and fix several alps switches that were failing on a recently acquired (very dirty) m0110!
Excellent video. I highly recommend heating the bent legs of the caps when you straighten them. If they are still stuck to the pad you may lift the pad of the PCB. Thanks for posting the mouser carts! very time-saving :)
Very, very well done video, very descriptive and well produced.
I really enjoy your videos! I recently picked up a 128k Macintosh myself and they have been a great source of information.
Thank you for making time to let me know the, Jonathan. I really appreciate it. The 128K is fun, but even more fun with an external 400K drive. But for the ultimate in fun, you will need to get a 512K, which is basically what the 128K should have been. There's just so much software out there with requires more memory. The limited RAM is one big reason the 128K is frustrating when you only have the 1 internal drive. I really can be disk swapping hell. Two drives helps to mitigate that. But regardless of the negatives, enjoy that vintage Mac!
Holy cow doesn’t that cook the circuit board wrestling those old caps out?!
Not in my case, no. If it did, it would not have worked when my recapping job was complete. 🙂 But if you watch the entire video, you will hear me give everyone my personal recommendation to leave the existing legs and just clip off the body of the old cap, then solder the replacement cap to those leg stubs. That is fast, easy and induces less heat on the motherboard.
@@JDW- thanks for the answer! I am really good at cooking components, so i will go the route you suggest and leave the old legs in
@@bartwaggoner2000 If you don't have a hot air station, it's REALLY hard to get thru-hole legs out of multi-layered motherboards. So doing what I recommend about the leg stubs is best for most people. Good luck!
I am 3 min in and I know this will be an excellent video, as always. Thank you so much for your work!
Thank you for your kind words, Alex!
Nice tantalum axial, very nice!
Another handy tip when removing stubborn components on multilayer boards is to use a low temp alloy such as ChipQuik or SRA Fast Chip along with flux. This alloys with the existing solder and vastly lowers the melting point of the solder and it stays liquid for several seconds after removing the iron from it. This both allows you to have less iron time on the board to keep from cooking it and often letting stubborn parts fall right out of the board even with both legs covered in solder. You should be careful to remove all of it from the board after removing the component but it has made my life much easier replacing power jacks on laptops over the years.
Thank you for the kind dip, Ralph. To be honest, I’ve never used ChipQuik or SRA Fast Chip before. Based on your comments, my primary concern would be to “remove it all“ after the component has been removed. Due to the heatsink-style heat dissipation properties of these multilayered boards, and considering the small size of the thru-holes, I have doubts that all the ChipQuik or SRA could be removed. Please forgive my ignorance, but why does it have to “all” be completely removed?
@@JDW- Just going over it with wick until you get dry wick is sufficient. I have not had problems with it, but theoretically if a glob of it were left on the board that would lower the melting point of the new solder which could be bad in hi-temp applications.
I see. Thank you for the explanation. But even though the fanless compact Macs get pretty toasty inside, they won’t get nearly that toasty! :-)
I always wanted to see a flux capacitor.
Great video, as usual! Thank you.
Thank you, Gonçalo!
Haven't watched the video yet, but I'm looking forward to it! I have a 512ke(first vintage Mac I got, back in 2004) that needs some love(and it has the Plus style keyboard, not sure if that's what it came with originally, or just was added later at some point between 1986 and 2004)
Tom, be sure to click SHOW MORE so you can read the text description because there's specific information for the Mac Plus extended keyboard and the mouse too. My mouse doesn't have caps, but apparently the Plus model did.
@@JDW- I have a few of those style Apple mice that I've gotten over the years, so I'll have to pop them all open and check
@@tombarber8929 Yes, please do check before you buy replacement capacitors. That applies to both keyboard and mouse. But in the text description I have provided links to the versions I know about. If you find you have something totally unique, I'd love to see a photo.
Great video!
James, by any chance do you have the mouser list for the Mac SE? -- that's def one that I need to do after reading your forum post!
I don't have a Mouser Cart of ONLY the Axial capacitors, but I do have a Mouser Cart link on page 5 of my SE Reloaded BOM here: bit.ly/3MF7BA9
The axial caps are mentioned atop page 2 of that BOM. So what you can do is click the Mouser Cart link on page 5, then delete everything except the Axial Caps. Remember that C36 is 1uF while C4, C11/13/16, C26, C32/34, C37/38, & C62 are 33uF.
Hi JDW, thank you for the video. It is very useful and I like your precisity in the text description. Thank you.
I'm just thinking, why are you not using solder sucker to remove the solder from the pins from the beginning? Does it have some expert reason?
Did you find out why the second capacitor was so difficult to remove? I agree to cut off the capacitor's body is more efficient but a fill replace is much nicer. :-)
As you can see from 21:07, the solder sucker (pump) did not work. So it doesn't matter if it was used at first or later on in the process. A 350°C soldering iron isn't hot enough to heat the pads sufficiently to melt the solder inside the hole completely such that a pump will remove it. If you continue watching from that point, you will see I then used a professional Goot brand desoldering station (similar in quality and function to a Hakko brand station, since Goot is also a Japanese brand, purchased here in Japan). That too did not work, even when I boosted the temperature well beyond 400°C. The trouble you run into when heating beyond 350°C is that you can sometimes lift pads accidentally.
The reason for the difficulty is this is a multilayered board. There is copper on top. There is copper on bottom. There is copper inside the board that you cannot see. That's a lot of copper, which is why it cannot be heated sufficiently to clear out the solder in the pin holes.
I fully realize that some people may find success by heating the area with a hot air station -- a tool which I do not have. But since my videos are made for people who don't have the fancy tools, the technique I showed for the 3rd and final capacitor on the motherboard is the recommended approach. It's fast, easy and looks fine too to just clip off the old axial capacitor, then solder the new one onto the existing legs. Because this is a multi-layered board, the existing legs will stay rock solid in their holes even when you solder the new capacitor onto them. I could have done that for all 3 capacitors, but I think the video serves to show why you wouldn't want to try to fully desolder the existing cap. The longer you spend trying to fully remove a capacitor leg from these multi-layered boards, the higher the risk of damage to the board. I didn't damage traces on mine, but there were some small nicks and scratches that otherwise would not have happened if I had just clipped off the old cap and solder the new cap to the existing legs.
In terms of aesthetics, if one thinks that fully removing the old cap and soldering the new cap into the holes "looks best," then it can also be argued that clipping off the old cap and soldering onto those remaining legs also looks good too insofar as there would be no nicks and scratches on the PCB in that case. In other words, the overall aesthetics are about the same either way. So one might as well go the easy way, I say.
@@JDW- Thank you very much your proper explanation. I had similar conclusion at the end (I watched the video two times, to observe the details) as you very good summarized: it is more safe to cut off the old caps and “just” solder to the legs the new ones. First I’ve thought to use some more carefull solution to suck away the solder is the reason, and honestly did not think about the thermal spreading what inner layers can do.
Thanks again for the whole explanation, hopefully it will be clean for everybody: inner layers are the tricky parts not the surfaces top and bottom layers.
Good lession, thanks for it. :-)
Hi JDW, I stumbled across your really helpful tutorials after recently buying an original (not working/for parts) 128k Macintosh (US made) model M0001 with 120v power board. It came with a British keyboard M0110B and mouse so all intact. I have managed to recap the main unit and give it a total overhaul but my question is around the keyboard and possibly software. The keyboard had a few dead keys but I pulled all the switches, cleaned a desoldered them. They are now working fine but there are some weird stings going on with the phasing/typing? i.e. if I press return I get / and if I press 'c' I get a 'v'. I am not sure but I think it may have something to do with the keyboard being seen as a US one and not a Brit one. If you have any advice I'd be extremely grateful : ) Great and highly informative videos BTW. I find them invaluable when doing my fixes. Thank you in advance, Leigh
Thank you for your kind words. What version "System" & "Finder" have you tried? Also, are you testing keystrokes in MacWrite?
@@JDW- Wow, thanks for such a swift reply first of all! I should begin by saying that my knowledge of the Mac OS began in about 1990 so going back further for me means reading and learning some ancient history. Forgive me but I just need to clarify a couple of things:
1. The system is 100% based on the floppies and is never installed or even temporarily 'held' on internal memory, correct?
2. The internal battery is missing and (if like later Macs) only keeps the clock going, so has no bearing on the Mac/system function, correct?
3. The keyboard type is not 'factory matched' to the main unit? i.e. it's not dependent on a certain motherboard type or, anything else to do with the hardware.
Currently, all I have is a single system back up floppy of (I think it's System 2). The Finder is 1.1g, the version of MacWrite is 2.20 and MacPaint is, well it says the disk is full and won't give any more info. I did try using MacWrite and key caps but I'm not entirely sure what I'm hoping to see when using it, as the floppy version of KeyCaps shows the US layout not the Brit layout. I am assuming this is where most of the issue lies as the US layout appears to have less keys/keys in different places.
Nearly all the keys now respond to them being pressed (except the return, space bar and / ) and I have circuit tested to make sure of connectivity, so I know there's at least that's fine. Below is an accurate list of what is happening when keyed:
§ = '
return = doesn't do anything
' = return
\ = z
z = x
x = c
c = v
v = b
n = m
, = .
. = /
/ = nothing
space bar = nothing in MacWrite (although spacebar types a box in KeyCaps)
-^- to right of space bar (control key maybe?) = space
I'm coming to the conclusion I need to find some other old system disks and try those.
I really appreciate you taking the time to help here. Thanks again!
@@leighsmith911 The operating system is always loaded into memory from the floppy disk.
The lack of an internal battery affects more than just the clock. The tracking speed of your mouse and other things in the general control panel are saved when you have a battery and lost without it. Those batteries are sold on Amazon USA and I post a link to them in the text description under many of my videos, but I am not sure about other Amazons outside the US.
I cannot find the British version of the control panel you need anywhere, which has an impact on your keyboard. I have posted a question at the 68kMLA, but so far, after several hours of waiting, no one has yet to reply to me there. Perhaps they will tomorrow.
68kmla.org/forums/topic/58553-512k-weird-keyboard-issues/?do=findComment&comment=669998
Not a single person has replied, so I created a new thread on the 68kMLA here:
68kmla.org/forums/topic/62545-software-for-m0110b-ukbritish-edition-keyboard/
@@JDW- Hi again, Thanks for helping out here and for the battery info. I have seen these on Amazon but UK stock is fairly non-existent, I'll get one soon. I'll keep an eye on the 68k link too, thank you. I have since found another website with some downloads for pre system 7 stuff (Disk images) but it took a while. When I get time I'll try to see if a system 3 or 4 era disk will help. They must have had some universal updates to control panels by then ('86?) as more Macs were appearing in the UK by then too, I'm pretty sure. I have a feeling this was an early unit that was imported from the States and had a UK keyboard swapped out for the US one (probably when software was easier to obtain too!). Thank you.
What is the Amiga-like demo at the end of the video from? Is that on Macintosh Garden?
Yes. It's called "Vanlandingham." If you expand the text description under my video and scroll down to the USEFUL INFORMATION section, you will see a link to it.
Hey there, the mouser linked for the 512k says some stuff in the cart is back ordered, these still the right parts to get right? Also do you have a link for the RIFA capacitor? Thank you!!
Thank you for letting me know. I have updated the Mouser cart so there are no more backordered items. If your question about the RIFA pertains to the one on the Analog Board, that is contained in the Mouser Cart I provide in the text description under my Analog Board video here: th-cam.com/video/Ng8F_QVgaTc/w-d-xo.html
@JDW- fantastic thank you!! I want to replace as many parts that should be replaced as I can but very new to understanding the compatible modern vs old caps and other components. These lists are a life saver. If you have any other that you'd suggest that would be supper helpful! Thank you again JDW-!!
Thank you for your kind words. You asked if I have any other capacitor lists, and the answer is that I do, depending on the configuration of your machine. For example, there are electrolytic capacitors inside floppy drives, and I have recapping videos about that, whether it be 400K, 800K, or 1.44MB.
Floppy Drive Maintenance
th-cam.com/play/PLNZ4qjMn-GHqrhYQMnoam-60tCEMctXGp.html
@JDW- oh great to know! I have the Sony drives. There are a little strange and not those thin ones. I will check on the exact number and serial name. Great to know!
Thanks for the tutorial! I picked up a 512k and a Mac Classic II from a former coworker who's husband had passed. Both start but throw sad mac errors. I figure I'll replace the caps to see what happens. Have you replaced any caps on a Classic II?
Also, I finally pulled the trigger on an LCR meter and used your amazon link. I have many old computers/game consoles that need recapping.....
I have never recapped a Classic or Classic II because I don’t own either of those machines. However, I do know someone who has a video on that topic here: th-cam.com/video/F2mVgN945g0/w-d-xo.html
@@JDW- Awesome, thank you!
Nice video thanks
Hello! Is there any list of all analog board capacitors availble? I was going to recap my 512 and would like to see all of the capacitors I need to purchase. Thank you in advance!
Yes! Please simply scroll up and click SHOW MORE to expand the text description where you'll find a link to my ANALOG BOARD Recapping Video just under the INDEX, and in the text description under that video you'll find the complete Mouser Cart.
Capslock key does nothing? That's a feature!
How so?
@@JDW- LOL, I loathe caps-lock. I only ever engage it on accident.
@@softdorothy Oh. In that case, my video can at least help you disable yours permanently! :-)
Hey I'd pay you to get my Mac Plus video looking spiffy again, interested?
Other than the fact I normally do not do paid repair work because I lack the free time to do so, the primary obstacle is shipping cost, in light of the fact I am located in Japan and most likely you are not. If there are video issues, it means it is likely something on the analog board, although without a more detailed description of the problem, it's difficult to say where the problem lies. If you are in the USA, Thomas Andrews (Amiga of Rochester) or Steve Matarazzo (Mac84 on TH-cam) might be willing to accept your entire machine for repair. If you are in Australia, Bruce (Branchus Creations on TH-cam) does excellent work. And these aren't the only people. I highly recommend you join (1) Vintage Apple Macintosh Enthusiasts on FaceBook and (2) the TinkerDifferent forum so you can post the problem with your machine and excellent repair folks local to you can chime in about what it would cost for them to help you out with a repair. I hope this info helps!
@@JDW- Thanks! I am in the US so I will reach out to these folks