Thank you for your work in putting together these videos and sharing the knowledge. I'm sure it will start to pay off soon enough as your videos start to get put out there by TH-cam. I have a John Deere 425 AWS and a Jacobsen GT14(same as ford LGT) that I am in the process of getting going for garden tractor purposes (3pt and pto attachments). Looking forward to all your videos.
Thanks Jason for the kind words man. That Jacobsen sounds cool, I enjoyed my Ford LGT when I had it, but finding extra attachments for it was near impossible here in Florida. I think if I was within 100 miles of the Canadian border, options would have been better🤣. I nicknamed the Ford section on MTF the Canadian forum, seems like half the dudes were Canadian. And the is great too, easy to find stuff, it's green and relatively recent. Thanks again for commenting and watching.
In case it helps you or anyone reading this the lift and the power steering cylinders can be repaired if you have a a lathe and can weld ( or have a buddy that can )you machine the weld in the lathe open the cylinder replace all the seals weld it back up and paint it, job done. The seals would have been $10 tops plus it saved a cylinder going to waste
Yeah, I have been told that before, but none of my welders friends are that confident of their ability doing it...yet. I do have some friend, but they live a ways away. Thanks for watching.
Yeah, I didn't exam that very closely yet, you're probably right. Going over some of the other aspects of the tractor, while it wasn't in bad shape, some "liberty" was taken as far as repairs and slapping stuff together. Thanks for watching and the tip.
Disconnect the power to the PTO solenoid if it stops its electrical problem you may also try swapping the old solenoid valve out of the old case in that one
Thanks Chuck for the info, I will try that in my trouble shooting antics. I didn't even consider it could be something inside the case🤦♂. Hopefully it's simpler than that, but the way things are going for me lately, that sounds like a good possibility. Because like I said, it didn't do that before, but I did swap out the middle part of the unit, so really that is an entirely different unit. Thanks for watching and the tip.
Chuck, so if it's not the electrical, which it's not. I unplugged and it still runs. So that means it's internal to the transmission. Your thoughts on how to repair, like where to start?
There’s four pieces underneath the armature pay close attention to how they come in or go out of the unit it makes a difference you could have a stuck valve
@@FloridaDeere No I have an old 322, it’s speed control is a hydro lever up by the steering wheel and when I put it in the “neutral” position it still wants to creep forward.
@@theprodigalson1077 Okay, let me see where I can find that on a forum and send it to you. I know guys have addressed this in the past. And if I'm not mistaken, my 322 may have a little creep. Sadly my 1023E has some as well, but again, there are ways to get it corrected that are easy and free.
@@FloridaDeere I have found a forum that says to adjust the linkage arm to the hydrostatic control, and also to put the tractor in the air and adjust the knuckle on the transmission, just would like to see a video on it!
@@theprodigalson1077 You will probably get to that before I get my 322 running again, but should I get it running soon and if it does have creep, can't remember if it does, I will make a video.
Remove the whole PTO solenoid from back the transmission case check for a blown o ring on the stem or replace it with the pto assembly from the other unit you have do this first
Okay, I will try this first, easy and cheap sounds like, if it doesn't work, I can do more intense and expensive work later I guess. Thanks for this and the other response.
The pto solenoid still works but doesnt retract from the clutch. You could simply install a cheap on/off switch on the power voltage wire to control the solenoid. Or, just replace it.
Hay I was wondering if you might have some insight. My 316 I got early this summer. The pto kept cutting out. Turns on then kicks out. Not clutch. I ran bypass wire and switch so can still mow. Oil and bat light don't turn on ever. I just have replaced engine as it had b48 instead of b43 but I just put briggs vanguard 23hp in as onan was check gas fill oil. Why engine was out I was looking at wiring and I'm confused. Thanks
I'm not as good with electrical stuff as I'd like to be for sure. You could maybe check the air gap too, that is the issue with a lot of PTO Issues, but the wiring can be "fun" to deal with sometimes. Thanks for watching, I'm sorry for not being more helpful.
@@FloridaDeere it now has brand new pto as Briggs shaft is different. I just thought watching some of your vids I'd ask. I'm considering h2 hydraulic conversion and I'm looking for 318 brake pedals
@@tractorboy31 Also check the area where the two extra lines go to the front hydraulic coupler area. On a 316, there is a lot of bulky hardware concerning the manual steering, so it may interfere, but I imagine you can also use soft line for flexibel routing. Brake pedals should be maybe a little easier. I currently have a 316 and passed on the h-2 conversion because if was more than I wanted to do at least on this project.
Thank you for your work in putting together these videos and sharing the knowledge. I'm sure it will start to pay off soon enough as your videos start to get put out there by TH-cam. I have a John Deere 425 AWS and a Jacobsen GT14(same as ford LGT) that I am in the process of getting going for garden tractor purposes (3pt and pto attachments). Looking forward to all your videos.
Thanks Jason for the kind words man. That Jacobsen sounds cool, I enjoyed my Ford LGT when I had it, but finding extra attachments for it was near impossible here in Florida. I think if I was within 100 miles of the Canadian border, options would have been better🤣. I nicknamed the Ford section on MTF the Canadian forum, seems like half the dudes were Canadian. And the is great too, easy to find stuff, it's green and relatively recent. Thanks again for commenting and watching.
In case it helps you or anyone reading this the lift and the power steering cylinders can be repaired if you have a a lathe and can weld ( or have a buddy that can )you machine the weld in the lathe open the cylinder replace all the seals weld it back up and paint it, job done. The seals would have been $10 tops plus it saved a cylinder going to waste
Yeah, I have been told that before, but none of my welders friends are that confident of their ability doing it...yet. I do have some friend, but they live a ways away. Thanks for watching.
Looks like that idler is for the flat side of a belt and I think that deck has a double V belt so you'd need a V belt idler.
Yeah, I didn't exam that very closely yet, you're probably right. Going over some of the other aspects of the tractor, while it wasn't in bad shape, some "liberty" was taken as far as repairs and slapping stuff together. Thanks for watching and the tip.
Disconnect the power to the PTO solenoid if it stops its electrical problem you may also try swapping the old solenoid valve out of the old case in that one
Thanks Chuck for the info, I will try that in my trouble shooting antics. I didn't even consider it could be something inside the case🤦♂. Hopefully it's simpler than that, but the way things are going for me lately, that sounds like a good possibility. Because like I said, it didn't do that before, but I did swap out the middle part of the unit, so really that is an entirely different unit. Thanks for watching and the tip.
Chuck, so if it's not the electrical, which it's not. I unplugged and it still runs. So that means it's internal to the transmission. Your thoughts on how to repair, like where to start?
There’s four pieces underneath the armature pay close attention to how they come in or go out of the unit it makes a difference you could have a stuck valve
Thanks Chuck. I will try that and see what happens.
can you do a video on how to adjust the hydrostatic lever to get the proper neutral position to stop the creeping forward? can’t find a video anywhere
Are you talking about the foot control lever for the hydro, I'm assuming?
@@FloridaDeere No I have an old 322, it’s speed control is a hydro lever up by the steering wheel and when I put it in the “neutral” position it still wants to creep forward.
@@theprodigalson1077 Okay, let me see where I can find that on a forum and send it to you. I know guys have addressed this in the past. And if I'm not mistaken, my 322 may have a little creep. Sadly my 1023E has some as well, but again, there are ways to get it corrected that are easy and free.
@@FloridaDeere I have found a forum that says to adjust the linkage arm to the hydrostatic control, and also to put the tractor in the air and adjust the knuckle on the transmission, just would like to see a video on it!
@@theprodigalson1077 You will probably get to that before I get my 322 running again, but should I get it running soon and if it does have creep, can't remember if it does, I will make a video.
Remove the whole PTO solenoid from back the transmission case check for a blown o ring on the stem or replace it with the pto assembly from the other unit you have do this first
Okay, I will try this first, easy and cheap sounds like, if it doesn't work, I can do more intense and expensive work later I guess. Thanks for this and the other response.
The pto solenoid still works but doesnt retract from the clutch. You could simply install a cheap on/off switch on the power voltage wire to control the solenoid. Or, just replace it.
Yeah, I really need to do some more research, I figure it's an easy fix once I know what's actually wrong. Thanks for watching.
Hay I was wondering if you might have some insight. My 316 I got early this summer. The pto kept cutting out. Turns on then kicks out. Not clutch. I ran bypass wire and switch so can still mow. Oil and bat light don't turn on ever. I just have replaced engine as it had b48 instead of b43 but I just put briggs vanguard 23hp in as onan was check gas fill oil. Why engine was out I was looking at wiring and I'm confused. Thanks
I'm not as good with electrical stuff as I'd like to be for sure. You could maybe check the air gap too, that is the issue with a lot of PTO Issues, but the wiring can be "fun" to deal with sometimes. Thanks for watching, I'm sorry for not being more helpful.
@@FloridaDeere it now has brand new pto as Briggs shaft is different. I just thought watching some of your vids I'd ask. I'm considering h2 hydraulic conversion and I'm looking for 318 brake pedals
@@tractorboy31 Also check the area where the two extra lines go to the front hydraulic coupler area. On a 316, there is a lot of bulky hardware concerning the manual steering, so it may interfere, but I imagine you can also use soft line for flexibel routing. Brake pedals should be maybe a little easier. I currently have a 316 and passed on the h-2 conversion because if was more than I wanted to do at least on this project.
wonder if anyone is running these on 100% wvo....
WVO?