I use sanding sealer or oil base primer with sanding between coats after the media is fully cured. My favorite top coat is truck bed liner. Very tough and looks good too. Gives my speakers a commercial/stage look.
Polyester body fillers vary greatly in ease of use. "Rage Gold" by Evercoat (pro product) is WAY easier to work with versus "Bondo" (retail product). Elmer's white glue mixed with water also works to prepare MDF for paint. Another thing i've got good results with is rubberized undercoating to prep MDF for paint. This will give you a textured surface in any color. I built a center console-type subwoofer enclosure (×2 8" Kicker C8) for a standard cab Ranger with bench seat I painted using this method.
Interesting... I've been considering doing a rear seat delete in my 02 Ranger Super cab (2-door) using 2 of the Epique 7" subs. Overall 17" wide x 18" tall x 7" deep, securing using the mounting holes the seat uses. Might use your idea of rubberized undercoating the MDF before painting to try matching the interior. Any recommendations on which rubberized undercoating?
I've had to work with MDF covered with a laminate, but with some bare areas due to blistering and sanding. Here's what I found out by trial and error. Ordinary oil-based wood stain seems to stabilize the material and keep it from absorbing moisture. It can be painted very effectively with chalk paint. Behr worked well enough for me and it cost less than the other brands. I used satin polyurethane as a the sealer and it did yield a shiny surface. But it was necessary because I was painting the top of a piece I am using as a computer desk. Depending on the piece, you will not need to seal the surface, and you will end up with a flat look. I mixed ordinary water-based latex with the chalk paint to change the color but I don't think it is a good idea to mix latex and chalk paint at a ratio of more than one part latex to six chalk or you will start to lose the chalk properties including flatness and the ability to stick without a primer. Acrylic watercolor paint can also be used to tint chalk paint. I used black acrylic to darken the color for the trim of the piece I was working on. That's my paint wisdom for MDF. Anybody wants to try my method, you can report the results.
Thanks for the video, always curious to see what methods may be better than what I may think. Vinyl sealer is my choice to get is smooth cabinet grade parts easily. A heavily cut conversion varnish will work too, but with less build. It vinyl sealer requires a build up 3 or more coats to completely fill the end grain- cut or tooled edges. Usually no need to do the flats in more than one. Sand edges 400-500 before sealer and after each coat. Sand the edges really well before your first coat. Don't worry about adhesion, it's going to dive deep into the ends. The first coat usually disappears completely. 5 minute cure and it sands to a powder easily. You can buy Mohawk vinyl sealer in an aerosol if you don't have a sprayer, but it also can be bought in larger sizes. There is also the option of white and tinted. Wear a respirator, and get some ventilation with some fresh air pulling in. It's strong! I look back in tears at the hours I wasted spraying primers and sanding most to it back off because it swelled. Knifing on compounds and sanding that back, I will never forgot a gloss black cabinet package that my rep recommend Opex lacquer. Solid raised panel door. I didn't know better and I sprayed and sanded for days. It was tuition. There are some WB cabinet primers that work for this as well, not quite as good but close. Much safer to work with. Renner 1214 is our new favorite, I use it to prime everything. WB Sherwin Williams primers for MDF like Kem Aqua are good and they have millwork primer that is decent. I hope you buy an $8 can of the Mohawk aerosol and follow my method to see it for yourself. Let me know what you think.
This guys cooked I’ve been in this business for years polyurethane satin sealer and or polyester the whole piece machine sand and paint. It’s not hard this guys making it so hard
In a former life I made signs, and we used automotive (gray) primer, then Bondo any trouble spots, then automotive paint. I would think once you have the primer done, just about any paint would give pretty decent results, with proper technique.
I find that a coat or 2 of a thick oil-based primer and sanding is enough to smooth out MDF edges. If I made any mistakes (tear-out, chips, gaps) I use a cheap 1-part wood-filler before priming to fix these.
Great video. I'm currently using painting a MDF table top. First I used a clear coat of CFP Cabot's to seal the MDF. Next Australian made Parfix Multipurpose filler. I used painters tape and a flexible metal blade. Remove tape and sand...I sanded to much so... I reapplied blue painters tape. I plan to use the flexible metal blade and apply the Parfix Multipurpose filler again. (You can get powder form on ebay, which I would have done if I had time). Then sand it diagonally (I'll try a hand and held 240 grit applicator) Prime with Zinnser using a air compressor spray gun. 2 coats Spray Paint two coats Top Coat with clear Cabot's CFP using a hand held sponge. (Polyutgerane and my respirator paper work doesn't recommend spraying polyurethane). I have attempted this table top about six times now! I am learning from my mistakes. There are no videos about filling an MDF table top. I will try and make my own. FB Lilly Pilly Home
The best thing I’ve found to use for press board, dried knot holes, etc. is Elmer’s Max Wood Glue (do NOT add any H2O to it). Not all wood glues are created equal by any stretch, and although not super cheap Elmer’s Max will seal it, and it’s strong as f. The other product I’ve discovered (and my current favorite), is Loctite PL 3X Premium. It comes in a caulking style tube and is marketed by Loctite as a “construction adhesive.” Which it is. But exactly what it is, is premixed liquid polyurethane. So the resin, and the hardener in it are mixed perfectly at the factory, then it’s injected into an aluminum lined caulking tube under vacuum pressure, so zero air can get to it before use. As with any polyurethane, the best way to achieve a smooth coating before painting is to utilize a heat gun on it, so it expels the tiny air bubbles trapped under it during curing. Otherwise, you WILL have to sand it. Another great thing about this product is that in order for the Loctite factory to be able to inject this stuff into it’s tube under a high enough pressure to eliminate all the air, they had to use a stainless steel “cup” on the back end of it (as opposed to plastic, like those used in silicone caulks). So when the tube is finished, just take a razor knife to the nozzle end of the spent tube about an inch away from tube’s end (if you don’t, you’ll be cutting into the steel cup with your razor!), and then peel the last inch of tubing off the cup with a pair of needle nose. Clean it off with acetone, and you’ll have yourself a handy little steel cup for cleaning small brushes, holding tiny screws, or whatever else you might want to use it for. It’s pretty damn strong, actually. Could be used for a mini DIY alcohol stove build. Whatever you like. Btw, good video! 👍
Interesting that I ran into this today as I just used glue to seal the end grain and the. Kilz to seal the entire sub box before painting yesterday. Came out good enough for a dark theater room lol
best way to paint mdf...sand it...wipe it with isopropyl alcohol...primer it and use any paint you want...but spray painting works perfectly...you can reach a piano gloss finish with multiple coats..
I'm using Krylon Laquer after a 220 grit followed with a 400 grit. 1 coat Krylon then sand 80% of it away, 2and coat then 400 grit again sanding 20% Krylon away. Then rattle can with Rust-oleum 2x light 600 sand then high gloss protective enamel of my choice. Both paint+primer and gloss enamel is the same color. First time EVER doing MDF and it came out real nice. My $0.2.
There is a product used in finishing shops called something like "sanding sealer" for use on not just MDF but most woods. I've used an acrylic lacquer based version of it and it's excellent. It has the consistency of whipping cream and is usually thinned to suit. You just spray it on and it dries pretty quickly since it uses thinner as a solvent. You end up with a furry finish which sands to a glass-like finish for priming and painting. I've used wood glue as well and that works pretty well if you keep it thin. As always with MDF it's not the large panel surfaces that are the problem, it's anywhere there's a join that you'd like to hide. MDF tends to react to the environment regards humidity and temperature so the whole cabinet needs to be sealed inside and out to stabilise it. I think it's best to incorporate any joins into the cabinet as a feature such as a pronounced groove between the baffle and cabinet. That way you could even have the baffle a different color and the groove wouldn't seem out of place and it hides the join.
I completely agree with integrating joints. Even if I get a joint hidden on finishing day, go back a month later and theres a tiny line all the way along the seam. Never fails.
One trick is to router out the seams with a bullnose bit. Then bondo it back up and sand flush. Or just veneer the cab haha. A cleaver design goes a long way with getting speaker cabs to look nice and in a short amount of time.
Hello! I 'm not good at english. So I can't understand everything. I think that what you say is "sanding sealer" is the best for mdf. Is it right~? : )
Primers, sealers and putty's all shrink as they dry. This is the simple reason that lines reveal themselves later on. 2 part products shrink less, and proper curing time should be allowed before moving on to the next stage.
I am intrigued by the Bondo for several reasons. It is great for covering imperfections and given my skill level and tools on hand there are likely to be a fair number of those. It also seems that it provides a good mechanism for making sculpted structures. For example instead of counter sinking a driver one could sculpt something akin to the anti-diffraction rings or surfaces seen in some commercial products. It makes it easier to do radiused or other smooth edges. A nice piano smooth surface is also plus. Another option of interest is liquid truck bed liner. I could see something like that being good for portable/PA cabs.
HAHAHA, nobody should EVER try to cover the entire surface with Bondo lol...good luck with that, sanding for a month and chipping off all the excess...wth..for filling nail holes and imperfections- Yes!!
I can do plastering and eh watching you do this makes me feel so much better! xD As I wrote this you said about being better than you, well I can't design and build speakers yet so eh! ;D
I've been a painting contractor for 20 years and I would never skim coat mdf with Bondoor water and glue or glazing putty. Heres what I do and it works! Sand the machined edges of the mdf with 320, then prime with either ESC waterbase primer ,sand with 220,prime again sand with 320 and paint. If you can't get ESC products follw the same sanding schedule, use pigmented shellac, sand 220,prime again , sand with 320 and paint.
The other issue with wood glue and water is that MDF will suck up water and anything water based like a 90s grunge musician sucks up heroin and swells up like a wrestler on steroids. The reason the joints on the water and glue example showed is because those untreated edges sucked up all the water from the glue and swelled.
You know they sell pre primed MDF. For the exposed areas from cuts just use caulking and rub it in a little than smooth it out with your finger as your going along caulking in the rest of it. Obviously the method is install, use spackle to fill the nail holes and any flat joint areas, sand, check for any sunken areas where you applied spackle, caulk and spray. My personal favorite is using a acrylic enamel semigloss. I live in the nw and my preferred paint store is Miller. They have a couple different products that are great. Acrinamel is great for spraying, brushing and rolling. The product stays wet enough to beable to work without spraying. Always try and avoid using a brush or roller on trim and doors if you can. This product has a 14 day curing period but dries rock hard. Acromax is another product that is great for spraying. I dont reccomend using a brush or roller for this product as it dries fast and can create more work but, if you are spraying in a cold area like a garage, acromax is the way to go without having to worry about paint runs due to slow dry time. These are 2 coat minimum to really make them pop and after all the prep it takes to get them to paint, doing another coat is nothing when you see the results
Why do people insist on applying lipstick to pigs? Fifst use MRMDF and all your problems will dissappear. If you insist on using MDF just prime with Zinseer Bin and sand properly.
I am having issues with the MDF expanding when I sand it smooth (400) after sealing the outside with shellac. Being in the garage during the build stage in a humid environment will make the MDF expand and contract depending on the day, and you can see the cut edges (about a 1mm lift) where the wood joins. If I seal the inside with shellac will this stop the MDF from expanding? Trying to make a piano finish but not until I get the MDF to stop expanding. Thanks in advance!
Good video! On the glazing putty, since your in the Hbg area. Stop by a Colours Paint Supply and pick up a quart of their house brand glazing putty. It is 2 part and it works out smoother with more working time. It isn't too expensive.
how would an acrylic or latex primer stack up to shellac on the MDF? I realize that acrylic and Latex are water based products and could potentially cause more of an issue on the end grain, but the wood glue mixture is also a water based product and it seemed to do just fine.
As always, another informative video. Thank you! Couple of questions for you though... If you use glazing putty to cover the seams and edges, is it ok to then go over the whole thing with wood glue / water? What type of spray paint is best to use over these sealers? I see you were rolling on water based paint.
Steven Clark great questions you can absolutely do that. The best finish will always be a spray finish. Auto paint works well, high quality spray paint, as well. If you have an HVLP sprayer with a fine tip, you can use thinned out water based paint.
A really nice way to do mdf edges is buy a roll of iron on veneer edge tape with a more closed grain like maple or cherry, iron on sand the edge seal and paint. The glue on the back of the tape acts like a sealer so you don't need as much spray sealer. It will look beautiful.
Hello Toids (sorry in advance if this is not your name) So I have a question that would it better if I had a base layer with spray putty primer then I use the bondo to fix and fill the surfaces before painting??? Many thanks.
The best to use is bondo or body filler !! Other than that is sanding sealer. The other products are useless. Body filler works very well especially on mdf dining tables and furniture. I also use bondo to edge melamine and paint.
It really doesn’t matter what you use. It’s primer. What it comes down to is the cost of material, so besides the pain of applying it, Bondo isn’t really an option. I like black MDF, which takes at least 3 coats of paint to get a smooth surface. So for priming I just use whatever clear coat I have left, add some paint thinner to make it penetrate better and just apply it with a brush. Then power sand it, apply second coat with a foam roller, lightly hand sand with 240 and then a satin clear coat from a spray can. Cheapest way to get a smooth surface.
Richard Parnell I use 220, 400, 600, 800 then the final sand of 1500. Normally, 5 or more coats. If you want a real smooth finish, you're going to want to use a very fine roller. However really your best finish would be with a spray system. Whether that be an HVLP or spray paint
No offence to anyone, but I’ve never seen one diy speaker build that paint job that I couldn’t do when I was 12. I don’t really do home audio, but most people wouldn’t pay for something nice. Oh and fibreglass resin is the best for mdf. Not the bondo brad garbage, go to a marine repair parts supplier and make sure you get the non waxed resin.
can you then put fake woodgrain over the top, (even on a kitchen countertop so say it had laminate you sand that off and do this and then use chalk style paint and then woodgrain look is my idea) ?
I've been in this business for 45 years. I see no skills here when applying, sanding or painting. You can't even make a proper judgement of the job when it's done. You have a lot to learn son.
We always used to use a water based primer then rub down with quite fine paper to take of the fluffy and raised part of mdf. Another coat of primer undercoat then ya top coat always worked well. I wouldn’t use body filler all over mdf though as you will be rubbing down for rest of your sad sad days lol
Filler primer and primer sealer are quick and easy, sand before top coat, shiny finish. Bondo is low quality body filler, covering an enclosure with it seems like a bad idea. Why not use an oil based wood sealer product and top with an oil based paint? Mixing glue and water seems like a waste of time, maybe I’m missing something with these techniques.
Just learn finishing basics before advising on the topic . 1) seal 2) fill 3) sand 4) seal 5) prime 6) finish . its that simply and no deviation will give great result . sealer of choice , clear shellac . filler , your choice , prime and finish , your choice
The best way to work with MDF is not to use MDF at all. At least where you can see it. I like using MDF inside an something else outside and glue it. Aaanyways good video!
Ive been a woodworker for over 2 decades & have sprayed 100s of finishes... These methods will work but honestly its all a waste of time when a good primer is all you need... OR... Take it up to a professional level and apply a plastic laminate then prime then paint. Doing it this way will hide any seems that will always open up on MDF.
You should be able to use trans tint to tint the white. It's a water-based dye, that works with other water-based stains. I don't see why it wouldn't work with water-based paint amzn.to/2PgPUuY Mixol should also work, but can be kind of expensive. amzn.to/37RMd5u
This was painful to watch, I use to use the glue mix on the edges, now I use the shellac primer. Glue mix clogs up sandpaper, takes longer. Bondo good for screw holes or dents takes too long for edges. You want fast application and dry time. Shellac cost more than glue so most shops keep the price down and use it. Plus time is usually not a problem for shops.
Mike Farinella I started watching an hour ago and left early cus I thought that painting with half water and wood glue was something a psychopath would do. Watched a few more and saw someone say “you HAVE to prime first”. Then it all clicked
not knocking your skills mate, but all those end results are unnacceptable to me, a customer would reject any of those patchy, uneven surfaces. peter millard has the best method for painting mdf on his channel, a decent acrylic primer and undercoat, applied twice with sanding between coats, then 2 coats of paint, sanding between coats, check out his channel and i guarantee it blows any of those out of the water. MDF is a bitch to get right and its the best method ive seen , although it takes patience.
"What's the best way to paint MDF" but applies a whole new skin first and doesn't use the obvious suspects like sanding sealer or polyurethane varnish. Hmmm...
Lol. It isn't complicated. 1 Prime, 2 sand, 3 paint. Easy as 1 2 3. Automotive primers are the best because automotive finishes have to be perfect or you don't get paid.
I am sorry and I do NOT mean to be disrespectful; but I do not think ANY of them is worth the time. Might as well to spay paint MDF until there it looks good and much better of your samples. Because each coat will prevent the MDF from sucking up the paint. As that happens, it CAN be made glossy and smooth. But... The BEST way is for the MDF manufacturers to come out with a perfect way to make painting their product; that will be glossy and smooth. They have the chemists and the no-how. It would be a fortune for them if they would do this. For whatever it's worth.
So you've just built an entire unit with mdf... and now you want me to cover the whole thing with fucking bondo and them spend the next month sanding it down? Are you high by any chance?
![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZIwNJGlVtwc/mqdefault.jpg)
![พบรัก - INK WARUNTORN x FELLOW FELLOW [LIVE SESSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1VonHhP6_Y8/mqdefault.jpg)
![[TH] VALORANT Champions Seoul - Grand Final - EDG vs TH](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WvObMc9VelI/mqdefault.jpg)
It's cool to see that you're into wood working after leaving the Barenaked Ladiies.
I know this is way after your comment, but I can't figure out if you're joking or it really is the "One Week" guy, as I know him
@@yuumain264, this guy is a little young to be Stephen Page, but he sure looks like him. 😆
I use sanding sealer or oil base primer with sanding between coats after the media is fully cured. My favorite top coat is truck bed liner. Very tough and looks good too. Gives my speakers a commercial/stage look.
Polyester body fillers vary greatly in ease of use. "Rage Gold" by Evercoat (pro product) is WAY easier to work with versus "Bondo" (retail product). Elmer's white glue mixed with water also works to prepare MDF for paint. Another thing i've got good results with is rubberized undercoating to prep MDF for paint. This will give you a textured surface in any color. I built a center console-type subwoofer enclosure (×2 8" Kicker C8) for a standard cab Ranger with bench seat I painted using this method.
Interesting... I've been considering doing a rear seat delete in my 02 Ranger Super cab (2-door) using 2 of the Epique 7" subs. Overall 17" wide x 18" tall x 7" deep, securing using the mounting holes the seat uses. Might use your idea of rubberized undercoating the MDF before painting to try matching the interior. Any recommendations on which rubberized undercoating?
ive had great results with automotive primers. 2k high build primer and a scuff with 220 and your golden
I've had to work with MDF covered with a laminate, but with some bare areas due to blistering and sanding. Here's what I found out by trial and error. Ordinary oil-based wood stain seems to stabilize the material and keep it from absorbing moisture. It can be painted very effectively with chalk paint. Behr worked well enough for me and it cost less than the other brands.
I used satin polyurethane as a the sealer and it did yield a shiny surface. But it was necessary because I was painting the top of a piece I am using as a computer desk. Depending on the piece, you will not need to seal the surface, and you will end up with a flat look.
I mixed ordinary water-based latex with the chalk paint to change the color but I don't think it is a good idea to mix latex and chalk paint at a ratio of more than one part latex to six chalk or you will start to lose the chalk properties including flatness and the ability to stick without a primer. Acrylic watercolor paint can also be used to tint chalk paint. I used black acrylic to darken the color for the trim of the piece I was working on.
That's my paint wisdom for MDF. Anybody wants to try my method, you can report the results.
Thanks for the video, always curious to see what methods may be better than what I may think. Vinyl sealer is my choice to get is smooth cabinet grade parts easily. A heavily cut conversion varnish will work too, but with less build.
It vinyl sealer requires a build up 3 or more coats to completely fill the end grain- cut or tooled edges. Usually no need to do the flats in more than one. Sand edges 400-500 before sealer and after each coat. Sand the edges really well before your first coat. Don't worry about adhesion, it's going to dive deep into the ends. The first coat usually disappears completely. 5 minute cure and it sands to a powder easily.
You can buy Mohawk vinyl sealer in an aerosol if you don't have a sprayer, but it also can be bought in larger sizes. There is also the option of white and tinted. Wear a respirator, and get some ventilation with some fresh air pulling in. It's strong!
I look back in tears at the hours I wasted spraying primers and sanding most to it back off because it swelled. Knifing on compounds and sanding that back, I will never forgot a gloss black cabinet package that my rep recommend Opex lacquer. Solid raised panel door. I didn't know better and I sprayed and sanded for days. It was tuition.
There are some WB cabinet primers that work for this as well, not quite as good but close. Much safer to work with. Renner 1214 is our new favorite, I use it to prime everything.
WB Sherwin Williams primers for MDF like Kem Aqua are good and they have millwork primer that is decent.
I hope you buy an $8 can of the Mohawk aerosol and follow my method to see it for yourself. Let me know what you think.
This guys cooked I’ve been in this business for years polyurethane satin sealer and or polyester the whole piece machine sand and paint. It’s not hard this guys making it so hard
In a former life I made signs, and we used automotive (gray) primer, then Bondo any trouble spots, then automotive paint. I would think once you have the primer done, just about any paint would give pretty decent results, with proper technique.
I find that a coat or 2 of a thick oil-based primer and sanding is enough to smooth out MDF edges. If I made any mistakes (tear-out, chips, gaps) I use a cheap 1-part wood-filler before priming to fix these.
Which one would you recommend?, also, what about hybrids/alkyds? Thanks in advance.
Great video.
I'm currently using painting a MDF table top.
First I used a clear coat of CFP Cabot's to seal the MDF.
Next Australian made Parfix Multipurpose filler. I used painters tape and a flexible metal blade.
Remove tape and sand...I sanded to much so...
I reapplied blue painters tape.
I plan to use the flexible metal blade and apply the Parfix Multipurpose filler again.
(You can get powder form on ebay, which I would have done if I had time).
Then sand it diagonally (I'll try a hand and held 240 grit applicator)
Prime with Zinnser using a air compressor spray gun. 2 coats
Spray Paint two coats
Top Coat with clear Cabot's CFP using a hand held sponge.
(Polyutgerane and my respirator paper work doesn't recommend spraying polyurethane).
I have attempted this table top about six times now!
I am learning from my mistakes.
There are no videos about filling an MDF table top.
I will try and make my own.
FB Lilly Pilly Home
Go to big box or local hardware and purchase sanding sealer. It works the best and easy to apply and clean up.
The best thing I’ve found to use for press board, dried knot holes, etc. is Elmer’s Max Wood Glue (do NOT add any H2O to it). Not all wood glues are created equal by any stretch, and although not super cheap Elmer’s Max will seal it, and it’s strong as f.
The other product I’ve discovered (and my current favorite), is Loctite PL 3X Premium. It comes in a caulking style tube and is marketed by Loctite as a “construction adhesive.” Which it is. But exactly what it is, is premixed liquid polyurethane. So the resin, and the hardener in it are mixed perfectly at the factory, then it’s injected into an aluminum lined caulking tube under vacuum pressure, so zero air can get to it before use. As with any polyurethane, the best way to achieve a smooth coating before painting is to utilize a heat gun on it, so it expels the tiny air bubbles trapped under it during curing. Otherwise, you WILL have to sand it.
Another great thing about this product is that in order for the Loctite factory to be able to inject this stuff into it’s tube under a high enough pressure to eliminate all the air, they had to use a stainless steel “cup” on the back end of it (as opposed to plastic, like those used in silicone caulks). So when the tube is finished, just take a razor knife to the nozzle end of the spent tube about an inch away from tube’s end (if you don’t, you’ll be cutting into the steel cup with your razor!), and then peel the last inch of tubing off the cup with a pair of needle nose. Clean it off with acetone, and you’ll have yourself a handy little steel cup for cleaning small brushes, holding tiny screws, or whatever else you might want to use it for. It’s pretty damn strong, actually. Could be used for a mini DIY alcohol stove build. Whatever you like.
Btw, good video! 👍
Interesting that I ran into this today as I just used glue to seal the end grain and the. Kilz to seal the entire sub box before painting yesterday. Came out good enough for a dark theater room lol
best way to paint mdf...sand it...wipe it with isopropyl alcohol...primer it and use any paint you want...but spray painting works perfectly...you can reach a piano gloss finish with multiple coats..
I just did a big project with MDF, definitely use fiberglass resin, it works best hands down,
100%
I'm using Krylon Laquer after a 220 grit followed with a 400 grit. 1 coat Krylon then sand 80% of it away, 2and coat then 400 grit again sanding 20% Krylon away. Then rattle can with Rust-oleum 2x light 600 sand then high gloss protective enamel of my choice. Both paint+primer and gloss enamel is the same color. First time EVER doing MDF and it came out real nice. My $0.2.
Sand, MDF primer, sand and spray paint works well for me tbh
What is MDF primer?
There is a product used in finishing shops called something like "sanding sealer" for use on not just MDF but most woods. I've used an acrylic lacquer based version of it and it's excellent. It has the consistency of whipping cream and is usually thinned to suit. You just spray it on and it dries pretty quickly since it uses thinner as a solvent. You end up with a furry finish which sands to a glass-like finish for priming and painting.
I've used wood glue as well and that works pretty well if you keep it thin.
As always with MDF it's not the large panel surfaces that are the problem, it's anywhere there's a join that you'd like to hide. MDF tends to react to the environment regards humidity and temperature so the whole cabinet needs to be sealed inside and out to stabilise it. I think it's best to incorporate any joins into the cabinet as a feature such as a pronounced groove between the baffle and cabinet. That way you could even have the baffle a different color and the groove wouldn't seem out of place and it hides the join.
I completely agree with integrating joints. Even if I get a joint hidden on finishing day, go back a month later and theres a tiny line all the way along the seam. Never fails.
One trick is to router out the seams with a bullnose bit. Then bondo it back up and sand flush. Or just veneer the cab haha. A cleaver design goes a long way with getting speaker cabs to look nice and in a short amount of time.
Hello! I 'm not good at english. So I can't understand everything. I think that what you say is "sanding sealer" is the best for mdf. Is it right~? : )
Primers, sealers and putty's all shrink as they dry. This is the simple reason that lines reveal themselves later on. 2 part products shrink less, and proper curing time should be allowed before moving on to the next stage.
I am intrigued by the Bondo for several reasons. It is great for covering imperfections and given my skill level and tools on hand there are likely to be a fair number of those. It also seems that it provides a good mechanism for making sculpted structures. For example instead of counter sinking a driver one could sculpt something akin to the anti-diffraction rings or surfaces seen in some commercial products. It makes it easier to do radiused or other smooth edges. A nice piano smooth surface is also plus.
Another option of interest is liquid truck bed liner. I could see something like that being good for portable/PA cabs.
Whaaat! I been painting for 15+ years, best way is oil (killz) primer then paint with your prefer paint
How many primer coats?, do I sand in between with 120 or 220?, how many coats of paint? Thanks
Toid, another great video. Did you ever try applying vinyl or leather covers? Wonder how can that be done on MDF?
HAHAHA, nobody should EVER try to cover the entire surface with Bondo lol...good luck with that, sanding for a month and chipping off all the excess...wth..for filling nail holes and imperfections- Yes!!
Let's go and test the shellac based primer...
Applies glazing putty 😒
I was about to subcribe until this happen..😑
I can do plastering and eh watching you do this makes me feel so much better! xD
As I wrote this you said about being better than you, well I can't design and build speakers yet so eh! ;D
I've been a painting contractor for 20 years and I would never skim coat mdf with Bondoor water and glue or glazing putty.
Heres what I do and it works! Sand the machined edges of the mdf with 320, then prime with either ESC waterbase primer ,sand with 220,prime again sand with 320 and paint. If you can't get ESC products follw the same sanding schedule, use pigmented shellac, sand 220,prime again , sand with 320 and paint.
Thank you for the video. Would have liked to see just the primer by itself on the joints, but thank you for the info on glazing putty.
The other issue with wood glue and water is that MDF will suck up water and anything water based like a 90s grunge musician sucks up heroin and swells up like a wrestler on steroids. The reason the joints on the water and glue example showed is because those untreated edges sucked up all the water from the glue and swelled.
You know they sell pre primed MDF. For the exposed areas from cuts just use caulking and rub it in a little than smooth it out with your finger as your going along caulking in the rest of it. Obviously the method is install, use spackle to fill the nail holes and any flat joint areas, sand, check for any sunken areas where you applied spackle, caulk and spray. My personal favorite is using a acrylic enamel semigloss. I live in the nw and my preferred paint store is Miller. They have a couple different products that are great. Acrinamel is great for spraying, brushing and rolling. The product stays wet enough to beable to work without spraying. Always try and avoid using a brush or roller on trim and doors if you can. This product has a 14 day curing period but dries rock hard. Acromax is another product that is great for spraying. I dont reccomend using a brush or roller for this product as it dries fast and can create more work but, if you are spraying in a cold area like a garage, acromax is the way to go without having to worry about paint runs due to slow dry time. These are 2 coat minimum to really make them pop and after all the prep it takes to get them to paint, doing another coat is nothing when you see the results
Bondo is a lot of unnecessary work. Use Zinsser B.I.N or Bulls Eye 123 primer and finish with the paint of your choice.
Totally agree but I reckon all this stuff can only be a joke!
How easy is it to work with the Bulls Eye? How many coats?
Why do people insist on applying lipstick to pigs?
Fifst use MRMDF and all your problems will dissappear.
If you insist on using MDF just prime with Zinseer Bin and sand properly.
I am having issues with the MDF expanding when I sand it smooth (400) after sealing the outside with shellac. Being in the garage during the build stage in a humid environment will make the MDF expand and contract depending on the day, and you can see the cut edges (about a 1mm lift) where the wood joins. If I seal the inside with shellac will this stop the MDF from expanding? Trying to make a piano finish but not until I get the MDF to stop expanding. Thanks in advance!
Good video! On the glazing putty, since your in the Hbg area. Stop by a Colours Paint Supply and pick up a quart of their house brand glazing putty. It is 2 part and it works out smoother with more working time. It isn't too expensive.
BusyDadsWorkshop I'm definitely going to check that out! Thanks!
how about thin sheets plywood?
Bondo...what plants crave? :D
That Idiocracy drop
how would an acrylic or latex primer stack up to shellac on the MDF? I realize that acrylic and Latex are water based products and could potentially cause more of an issue on the end grain, but the wood glue mixture is also a water based product and it seemed to do just fine.
As always, another informative video. Thank you!
Couple of questions for you though...
If you use glazing putty to cover the seams and edges, is it ok to then go over the whole thing with wood glue / water?
What type of spray paint is best to use over these sealers? I see you were rolling on water based paint.
Steven Clark great questions you can absolutely do that. The best finish will always be a spray finish. Auto paint works well, high quality spray paint, as well. If you have an HVLP sprayer with a fine tip, you can use thinned out water based paint.
after all that work... I'll vinil wrap it or use wood veneer 😁
If you use Evercoat Spot Putty and their Primer it never shrinks so if the surface is prepped all you would need is the primer.
Take the leap. It's polyester so down the road you wont have cracking, shrinking or overkill
A really nice way to do mdf edges is buy a roll of iron on veneer edge tape with a more closed
grain like maple or cherry, iron on sand the edge seal and paint. The glue on the back of the tape acts like a sealer so you don't need as much spray sealer. It will look beautiful.
Ok... good point.
Now, let's cover edges you need to be rounded over.
You go first...
ISF melamine primer two coats sanding in between, end grain coating with shellac, A/C lacquer on top
Hello Toids (sorry in advance if this is not your name)
So I have a question that would it better if I had a base layer with spray putty primer then I use the bondo to fix and fill the surfaces before painting???
Many thanks.
Well done!
The best to use is bondo or body filler !! Other than that is sanding sealer. The other products are useless. Body filler works very well especially on mdf dining tables and furniture. I also use bondo to edge melamine and paint.
It really doesn’t matter what you use. It’s primer. What it comes down to is the cost of material, so besides the pain of applying it, Bondo isn’t really an option.
I like black MDF, which takes at least 3 coats of paint to get a smooth surface. So for priming I just use whatever clear coat I have left, add some paint thinner to make it penetrate better and just apply it with a brush. Then power sand it, apply second coat with a foam roller, lightly hand sand with 240 and then a satin clear coat from a spray can. Cheapest way to get a smooth surface.
now I learn... tnx man..
Edges and joints.. 3 coats of shellac based primer. Sand between and after.
Done. Everything else is wasted time and NRG
Good info. Thanks.
Excellent how-to toid. What grit sandpaper did you use, and how many coats of paint would you normally put on?
Richard Parnell I use 220, 400, 600, 800 then the final sand of 1500. Normally, 5 or more coats. If you want a real smooth finish, you're going to want to use a very fine roller. However really your best finish would be with a spray system. Whether that be an HVLP or spray paint
No offence to anyone, but I’ve never seen one diy speaker build that paint job that I couldn’t do when I was 12. I don’t really do home audio, but most people wouldn’t pay for something nice. Oh and fibreglass resin is the best for mdf. Not the bondo brad garbage, go to a marine repair parts supplier and make sure you get the non waxed resin.
I was wondering how to get a raw mdf effect, probably using wood stain or just shellac? (to keep the original mdf color/apperance?
Just shellac makes it look really nice.
Great video!
useing a water mix with glue seems to work i always thought never used any water at all on unsealed mdf ?
can you then put fake woodgrain over the top, (even on a kitchen countertop so say it had laminate you sand that off and do this and then use chalk style paint and then woodgrain look is my idea) ?
I've been in this business for 45 years. I see no skills here when applying, sanding or painting. You can't even make a proper judgement of the job when it's done. You have a lot to learn son.
So if I'm gluing two pieces of MDF together to make a thicker piece of wood for a vanity, which one would be the best?
Great vid, can I use bondo on wood or lumber, I have a project with both MDF and SPF wood.
Yes you can
what happened with regular paint or polyurethane?
We always used to use a water based primer then rub down with quite fine paper to take of the fluffy and raised part of mdf. Another coat of primer undercoat then ya top coat always worked well. I wouldn’t use body filler all over mdf though as you will be rubbing down for rest of your sad sad days lol
What type of Paint do you normally use to paint the speaker's cabinet, water or oil-based paint?
Oil
Filler primer and primer sealer are quick and easy, sand before top coat, shiny finish. Bondo is low quality body filler, covering an enclosure with it seems like a bad idea. Why not use an oil based wood sealer product and top with an oil based paint? Mixing glue and water seems like a waste of time, maybe I’m missing something with these techniques.
What do mean by large job with bondo I doing a bookshelf speaker box 19 x 12 x 14 would you think this is a large job with h bondo drys fast ?
No. That would be fine.
When I watch videos about sealing MDF I wonder would it be better to use a different material i.e. not MDF!
Just learn finishing basics before advising on the topic .
1) seal 2) fill 3) sand 4) seal 5) prime 6) finish . its that simply and no deviation will give great result . sealer of choice , clear shellac . filler , your choice , prime and finish , your choice
How about clear coating it, primer, base coat and clear coat again
i have a aleady white mdf board but it is'nt clear white it mixed with rose color
is there method to look 100% white
Hope you kept them. For me the main problems dont show for a few months.
I actually do still have them around. Mainly to use as stops on my sled :)
123Toid have you played much with ply? I haven't but thinking about trying a project one day with it.
Ever think of just using primer to prime?
you should do the edges wich is problematic surface never is a big problem
Bernhard Hnida there are edges glued on both sides
What a vid man!! Totally surreal!!
Should’ve had a control
The best way to work with MDF is not to use MDF at all. At least where you can see it. I like using MDF inside an something else outside and glue it.
Aaanyways good video!
Has anyone tried spreading a paintable mastic or an adhesive sealant on the edges and painting and sanding?
No.
Hi. How do I varnish MDF?
Ive been a woodworker for over 2 decades & have sprayed 100s of finishes... These methods will work but honestly its all a waste of time when a good primer is all you need... OR... Take it up to a professional level and apply a plastic laminate then prime then paint. Doing it this way will hide any seems that will always open up on MDF.
Great tips. I'm going to try them out. Thank you
what would be the best clear coat to use if I wanted to stain MDF? I'm making a finger jointed box for my mom's therapist.
if its for a therapist youll want to focus more on the inside (:
@@word2RG 🤣🤣🤣
GOOD ONE!
Duratex works great. But only available in black or white. 😠
You should be able to use trans tint to tint the white. It's a water-based dye, that works with other water-based stains. I don't see why it wouldn't work with water-based paint amzn.to/2PgPUuY Mixol should also work, but can be kind of expensive. amzn.to/37RMd5u
all finished example are terrible so what was the point of this video?
make us waist are time..lol
Why didn't you do the Shellac based primer by itself just to show what it can do? Putting putty on it defeats the purpose of the test.
Don't use ova gluee and water because if on top of that you want to use acrylic water based paint , your paint will crack
Why don’t used a oil primer then just paint why go though all this glue mix or bondo iam. Missing something
This was painful to watch, I use to use the glue mix on the edges, now I use the shellac primer. Glue mix clogs up sandpaper, takes longer. Bondo good for screw holes or dents takes too long for edges. You want fast application and dry time. Shellac cost more than glue so most shops keep the price down and use it. Plus time is usually not a problem for shops.
You're talking Priming here, not painting.
Mike Farinella I started watching an hour ago and left early cus I thought that painting with half water and wood glue was something a psychopath would do.
Watched a few more and saw someone say “you HAVE to prime first”. Then it all clicked
And sand it
ummmmm. why wouldnt you show oil based primer or water based primer?? is it too obvious for you??
You don't want to use water based primer on MDF. I did show shellac based primer and noted it's what I use primarily
@@Toid sorry- you didnt actually answer the question, why dont i want to use water based primer? and also, why not oil? ...
@Mark Stevens thanks for your response Mark, so what about oil?
Price koto
I just realised this was about house painting HAHAH for trippers I’m a spray painter..
????????its april 1st right??????????????????
not knocking your skills mate, but all those end results are unnacceptable to me, a customer would reject any of those patchy, uneven surfaces.
peter millard has the best method for painting mdf on his channel, a decent acrylic primer and undercoat, applied twice with sanding between coats, then 2 coats of paint, sanding between coats, check out his channel and i guarantee it blows any of those out of the water. MDF is a bitch to get right and its the best method ive seen , although it takes patience.
"What's the best way to paint MDF" but applies a whole new skin first and doesn't use the obvious suspects like sanding sealer or polyurethane varnish. Hmmm...
A few sand jobs ........lol
Was looking okay until you didn't sand anything, and layered the products together :(
Need to spray paint to see real effect ‼️ not roll paint think layer of paint
Lol. It isn't complicated. 1 Prime, 2 sand, 3 paint. Easy as 1 2 3. Automotive primers are the best because automotive finishes have to be perfect or you don't get paid.
Water MDF`s worst nightmare ,,, thus water and glue BAD idea ,,, the mdf will absorb the water as it evaporates ....
your videos are too compressed hard to see what looks best
Senseless video
duratex
Do you like Duratex? I know a lot of people do. I just am not a fan, as I like smooth finishes.
Just on youtube, the results look good. Looks like it can be sanded down too. You should do a video :)
I am sorry and I do NOT mean to be disrespectful; but I do not think ANY of them is worth the time. Might as well to spay paint MDF until there it looks good and much better of your samples. Because each coat will prevent the MDF from sucking up the paint. As that happens, it CAN be made glossy and smooth. But...
The BEST way is for the MDF manufacturers to come out with a perfect way to make painting their product; that will be glossy and smooth. They have the chemists and the no-how. It would be a fortune for them if they would do this.
For whatever it's worth.
Why not just use some decent spray paint?
This one is a swing and a miss....
Tagalog pls
So you've just built an entire unit with mdf... and now you want me to cover the whole thing with fucking bondo and them spend the next month sanding it down? Are you high by any chance?