I make a lot of MDF boxes for various applications, by far this is the only video that speak about issues that pop due to joints peeping out of paint. Happy. Very happy. Please delight me with more and even better solutions for this problem. Very very thankful to you on this.
Love it man. My father, God rest his soul, was an Auto Body man. He owned his own shop, and was incredibly talented in so many ways. He was a master with all this stuff. And painted a few Hot Rod type cars that people still talk about 30 plus years after he did them. A couple in black too, which is by far the hardest to work with, because it shows every imperfection. So when I see anything like this it brings back amazing memories like you couldn't imagine. He was a real character, and attracted people like him to him of course. And his shop was going full force during the cocaine fueled 80's. Believe me when I tell you. You can't begin to imagine the things I saw when I was young! Lol Anyway. When he had these hard jobs. He did them himself, because he was the best at it, and taught everyone that worked for him what they knew. So obviously. If it had to be perfect. He did it. Thankfully he taught me just about everything there is to know about this stuff. And believe there's always more then one way to do this type of stuff. In fact half the fun is trying new ways to see if you can come up with an amazing process, or one that makes it easier. Especially since there's always some new stuff being invented. Now my experience is more with metal then wood, but I've done both. And I can easily say. The best advice you gave in the video was to apply paint, and check first. I do think you could have gone into much more detail though. Especially since most people might not understand the importance of sanding every layer completely as you go for instance. I think you could easily do a multi part series of start to finish on this. Heck on everything to do with speakers. It would take a lot of video though to do it right. So it would be many videos in the end. But that's better then one long one I think. No one would watch it. But if you came at it like that, where you assume the viewer knows nothing, and you go through the whole thing. I think you'd get many more people willing to try it. Knowing you've got their back with a complete series. And I have to assume many, if not most of them, would be long term viewers and really help your channel. Whenever he had a serious job to do especially, but sometimes even on a basic job that was a whole car paint job. He would always do a full paint job with just a thin coat, or sometimes much more if there was a lot of work done. This has many more advantages then just checking your work. Sometimes, no matter how many layers of primer you use. The paint will sort of get sucked in. And every little imperfection will show. If you paint first, then sand, and fill if needed. The final product will look 10 times as good in the end. I also highly recommend keeping the area you're working in as warm, and as dry as possible. Except when you're actually painting. Then if you can, like in a cement floored garage, wet the floor to keep the dust down. And just be careful not to splash the water on what you're painting though. That sucks when that happens. Lol Oh, and I found it funny you said in a comment that you don't like the smell of Bondo. I love it man. It reminds me of my father. His nickname was "Bondo" actually. He would have liked you too, I'm sure of it. Even if you don't like the smell of Bondo. Lol Thank you for another great video man. Much appreciated. :)
Andrew Balus great comment and thank you for sharing about your father. He sounded like an amazing man. I'll have to think about doing a painting series. It would be cool. I do have a few videos in the works. But maybe in the future.
Nicely done. I would also suggest block sanding to get a smooth and flat surface. When using your palm or fingers you are adding ridges and valleys to the surface (although very minor). I use glazing putty as well. I like the stuff you can get at Colours paint supplier on Derry Street. It is a 2-part putty.
Great tip on block sanding! I'll have to check out Colours, I've never been in there. Plus, you can tell I am in need of more putty :) I do occasionally use Bondo as well, but I hate that smell.
i've used a wood (titebond III) glue and water mixture with great success. a few coats, light sanding in between. a few coats of primer, then paint. Just used wood filler for any low spots.
Great video. Lot of great tips. I use a 50/50 mix of wood glue, then sand down until smooth to seal. It take more time because you are actually trying to build up the layers to a flat surface as well as sealing it. I like your method better.
I just finished an entire kitchen with flat doors made from MDF. I avoid MDF at all costs, but is the perfect material for flat kitchen doors. I’m afraid this process does not lend itself well to production output. I used 2 coats of high end Sherwin Willams wall and Board primer sprayed on and sanded in between; and 2 coats of the urethane enamel sanding 320 in between. Results were terrific, but then again no seams. Edges were sealed after all 4 coats and sanding.
like Jeremy mentioned. I'm a carpenter, woodworker, do remodeling. watered down wood glue does an awesome job sealing. I use glazing putty also, but cheapest and easiest is watered down wood glue or even Elmer's. secret woodworker tip. Elmer's glue is just as good as regular wood glue because it's the same thing without the filler. I do also use a spray shellac when time is an issue sometimes, but then I usually sand between application, no sanding between applications of glue.
The first shellac can you showed is NOT de-waxed. Definitely do NOT use that as a primer, since the wax can cause paint adhesion problems. The Zinsser shellac-based primer you showed is a good choice. Or if you need a clear shellac-based primer, then Zinsser makes "Seal Coat" which is 100% pure de-waxed shellac.
interesting,thanks for the video,now on to hating haha hey this is youtube right,ok here it is,hey,haha you should do a cooking video,you reminded me of one of those cooking shows,and next you want to add some butter and just stir that right in and i like to add some parsley and serve the Mdf up with a side of grit's just eat it right up with some grits.i hope you enjoyed todays cooking network lol ok i think you got the picture,kidding ,later man
First ...Join the MDF better ! use Mitred Joints .And use a good Glue soaked into the surface for 1 min before joining . Then de glaze the surface with a MIRKA sander etc . Shelac 2x coats with a fine sand between .NEVER use sand paper that not on a Flat block and never finish with round sanding action.
The title is how to seal and paint MDF. What you show in the video is how to bondo and that's not explaining anything about actually sealing the MDF to prepare it for painting. I was hoping that you would be demonstrating the use of shellac, an alcohol based solution, and how well it seals the edge of MDF.
The best sealer IMHO is a resin, paint your whole enclosure in epoxy or polyester(epoxy is better doesnt stink... but costs more). After sealing the MDF fully giving the endgrain a good soaking it will last many years unlike most primers(unless they are resin based) or shellac(which is still breathes with a thin coating). It pretty much makes mdf waterproof and super strong any filler or paint will stick well with a light keying of the surface, its great basis for a very long lasting paint job. After fully setting you can actually polish the endgrain if you desire a wet cardboard look :D
Nice... Can you buy some for me? Just send them to me... I'm on the other side from your camera. 🤦 Nice to know that I can't find to buy whatever you are showing me... Because they don't ship it on the other side of the world !!! 🤬
![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZIwNJGlVtwc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](/img/tr.png)
I make a lot of MDF boxes for various applications, by far this is the only video that speak about issues that pop due to joints peeping out of paint. Happy. Very happy. Please delight me with more and even better solutions for this problem.
Very very thankful to you on this.
Love it man. My father, God rest his soul, was an Auto Body man. He owned his own shop, and was incredibly talented in so many ways. He was a master with all this stuff. And painted a few Hot Rod type cars that people still talk about 30 plus years after he did them. A couple in black too, which is by far the hardest to work with, because it shows every imperfection. So when I see anything like this it brings back amazing memories like you couldn't imagine. He was a real character, and attracted people like him to him of course. And his shop was going full force during the cocaine fueled 80's. Believe me when I tell you. You can't begin to imagine the things I saw when I was young! Lol
Anyway. When he had these hard jobs. He did them himself, because he was the best at it, and taught everyone that worked for him what they knew. So obviously. If it had to be perfect. He did it. Thankfully he taught me just about everything there is to know about this stuff. And believe there's always more then one way to do this type of stuff. In fact half the fun is trying new ways to see if you can come up with an amazing process, or one that makes it easier. Especially since there's always some new stuff being invented.
Now my experience is more with metal then wood, but I've done both. And I can easily say. The best advice you gave in the video was to apply paint, and check first. I do think you could have gone into much more detail though. Especially since most people might not understand the importance of sanding every layer completely as you go for instance.
I think you could easily do a multi part series of start to finish on this. Heck on everything to do with speakers. It would take a lot of video though to do it right. So it would be many videos in the end. But that's better then one long one I think. No one would watch it. But if you came at it like that, where you assume the viewer knows nothing, and you go through the whole thing. I think you'd get many more people willing to try it. Knowing you've got their back with a complete series. And I have to assume many, if not most of them, would be long term viewers and really help your channel.
Whenever he had a serious job to do especially, but sometimes even on a basic job that was a whole car paint job. He would always do a full paint job with just a thin coat, or sometimes much more if there was a lot of work done. This has many more advantages then just checking your work.
Sometimes, no matter how many layers of primer you use. The paint will sort of get sucked in. And every little imperfection will show. If you paint first, then sand, and fill if needed. The final product will look 10 times as good in the end. I also highly recommend keeping the area you're working in as warm, and as dry as possible. Except when you're actually painting. Then if you can, like in a cement floored garage, wet the floor to keep the dust down. And just be careful not to splash the water on what you're painting though. That sucks when that happens. Lol
Oh, and I found it funny you said in a comment that you don't like the smell of Bondo. I love it man. It reminds me of my father. His nickname was "Bondo" actually. He would have liked you too, I'm sure of it. Even if you don't like the smell of Bondo. Lol
Thank you for another great video man. Much appreciated. :)
Andrew Balus great comment and thank you for sharing about your father. He sounded like an amazing man. I'll have to think about doing a painting series. It would be cool. I do have a few videos in the works. But maybe in the future.
@@Toid yes please do
HH Scott 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Nicely done. I would also suggest block sanding to get a smooth and flat surface. When using your palm or fingers you are adding ridges and valleys to the surface (although very minor). I use glazing putty as well. I like the stuff you can get at Colours paint supplier on Derry Street. It is a 2-part putty.
Great tip on block sanding! I'll have to check out Colours, I've never been in there. Plus, you can tell I am in need of more putty :) I do occasionally use Bondo as well, but I hate that smell.
I have a project in mind. I was thinking of Bondo, but I was unsure. Super helpful and simple!
Great information and thank you for putting this out. I'm just starting to work with MDF so I need all the tips I can get!
Steven Clark you're welcome! I'm glad you found it useful
i've used a wood (titebond III) glue and water mixture with great success. a few coats, light sanding in between. a few coats of primer, then paint. Just used wood filler for any low spots.
Great video. Lot of great tips. I use a 50/50 mix of wood glue, then sand down until smooth to seal. It take more time because you are actually trying to build up the layers to a flat surface as well as sealing it. I like your method better.
is there any benefit to using the bondo over something like spackling?
I worked in a body shop & a cabinet factory & you always want to make sure you do a final block sand after any power sanders.
I just finished an entire kitchen with flat doors made from MDF. I avoid MDF at all costs, but is the perfect material for flat kitchen doors. I’m afraid this process does not lend itself well to production output. I used 2 coats of high end Sherwin Willams wall and Board primer sprayed on and sanded in between; and 2 coats of the urethane enamel sanding 320 in between. Results were terrific, but then again no seams. Edges were sealed after all 4 coats and sanding.
Thanks! Going to be redoing a couple speaker boxes, and I want to up my paint game.
What grit sand paper you use to sand the putty?
like Jeremy mentioned. I'm a carpenter, woodworker, do remodeling. watered down wood glue does an awesome job sealing. I use glazing putty also, but cheapest and easiest is watered down wood glue or even Elmer's. secret woodworker tip. Elmer's glue is just as good as regular wood glue because it's the same thing without the filler. I do also use a spray shellac when time is an issue sometimes, but then I usually sand between application, no sanding between applications of glue.
That's a great tip! Thanks!
What are the measurements of the box?
which goes first? the putty or the primer? thanks in advance man, you have helped us a lot!
Giannis Giannopoulos really, you can do it either way. However, I like to do the putty first.
Hello, great vid. Do you think I can use the same procedure for some MDF door cupboard that have a gloss finish? Thanks.
The first shellac can you showed is NOT de-waxed. Definitely do NOT use that as a primer, since the wax can cause paint adhesion problems. The Zinsser shellac-based primer you showed is a good choice. Or if you need a clear shellac-based primer, then Zinsser makes "Seal Coat" which is 100% pure de-waxed shellac.
I wish you sealed or painted and piece of MDF if this video described as sealing and painting MDF.
interesting,thanks for the video,now on to hating haha hey this is youtube right,ok here it is,hey,haha you should do a cooking video,you reminded me of one of those cooking shows,and next you want to add some butter and just stir that right in and i like to add some parsley and serve the Mdf up with a side of grit's just eat it right up with some grits.i hope you enjoyed todays cooking network lol ok i think you got the picture,kidding ,later man
First ...Join the MDF better ! use Mitred Joints .And use a good Glue soaked into the surface for 1 min before joining . Then de glaze the surface with a MIRKA sander etc . Shelac 2x coats with a fine sand between .NEVER use sand paper that not on a Flat block and never finish with round sanding action.
Bondo is hella faster than doing all that
The title is how to seal and paint MDF. What you show in the video is how to bondo and that's not explaining anything about actually sealing the MDF to prepare it for painting. I was hoping that you would be demonstrating the use of shellac, an alcohol based solution, and how well it seals the edge of MDF.
So when your building a large tower speaker like tuxes 1099’s you cover the entire box in filler first?
Eng- 399 in glazing putty, no way, lol. I would prime it with Bin and seal the end grain and seams. I guess I should have been clearer :D
Like to see it after you gave it a coat of paint
Use spray lacquer. I use to build cabinets
That's an interesting idea. I have never tried that!
Chandlers Kustom Creations This is immediately what I thought of when I saw the video title. Thanks for the info! Do you have a suggested brand?
Russell Borrego I can’t remember the brand I use off hand. Also u can use wood glue like titebond let it dry and sand it
Chandlers Kustom Creations thank you!
I wonder if an automotive sandable primer would seal MDF ?
The best sealer IMHO is a resin, paint your whole enclosure in epoxy or polyester(epoxy is better doesnt stink... but costs more).
After sealing the MDF fully giving the endgrain a good soaking it will last many years unlike most primers(unless they are resin based) or shellac(which is still breathes with a thin coating). It pretty much makes mdf waterproof and super strong any filler or paint will stick well with a light keying of the surface, its great basis for a very long lasting paint job.
After fully setting you can actually polish the endgrain if you desire a wet cardboard look :D
Nice...
Can you buy some for me?
Just send them to me...
I'm on the other side from your camera.
🤦
Nice to know that I can't find to buy whatever you are showing me... Because they don't ship it on the other side of the world !!!
🤬
4:37 I'm done can't watch anymore
Lol yeah, hope he doesn't go on the drywall job.