hi Bill, great video, i was brought up with Triang Railways, the motors were a bit noisy but ran well unlike todays motors which are hit and miss, i have an R55 diesel unit with two motors in it, one motor is in the body to give diesel engine sound, great memories of the 60s as children, the Jinty was a firm favorite back then with smoke !!
Well done Bill. It brought memories back from 1990 with my Tri-ang-Hornby class 101 that I bought for my son in 1973 (My self really) and had to make the same repairs or buy better ear defenders. Thanks for a great video. Bill from Western Australia. Stay Safe
Great video thanks for sharing, interesting service giving me some tips, yes they are noisy motors that are on a lot of Triang models but there fun, thanks again John
There's been leaves on the line, there's been the wrong type of snow on the line but bodies in the drive is a new one on me!!!! Well done Bill. Nice repair job in an old un'.
Very informative once again. I have a Dock Authority with the same motor but one of the screws on the underside will not budge to enable me to clean one of the axles properly. I have reverted to "your wonder-cleaner" as an alternative measure.
"Ha, Ha, Ha. Sorry! A couple of people have found their way into the motor!" That what happens when there's not enough conductors on the trains these days! Has Health & Safety been notified!? Seriously, another great video and a quiet Triangle motor. Cheers, Jim L
I've had mine since 1963. All I've ever done is maintenance, swapped the original serrated wheels for smooth ones, and converted to DCC. It does and always has, run smoothly and quietly, with slow running that matches modern locos. I also have the Dock Shunter from the same era which is basically the same power unit, but with larger wheels and that runs in the same manner. I don't know what you have against this motor unit - it has proper bronze bearings on the armature shaft, ball bearings to take the thrust from the armature shaft, lubrication pads, and in my case metal gears. It's far and away the best running unit I have from that era, particularly when compared to the awful unit in the Class 31 (and several others) which has badly fitting plastic bearings, that horrible spider for pick ups and nothing to take the end thrust.
Hi Bill love this video .I have a three coach ELI that runs really well.I have a problem with another of my locks . It is the Hornby Golden Shuttle and a pin has come out on one of the linkages on the motion rods . Do you think it would repair . Regards David
I have the same model DMU which is running badly which is a shame as it is a favourite. I would be very interested in seeing an motor swap if such a thing could be made to work. Really enjoy watching your channel and have learned a lot, thank you
What cleaning spray were you using? Looks like a WD40 can with the folding handle but normal WD40 is a bad thing anyway. (Confirmed the hard way on one of my own older models). Is it an electrics cleaning version?
Bill’s chuckling made me laugh too! The lengths people will go to to dodge the ticket collector. A pair of “auld wifies” from Morningside probably. Shameful. I’ve got a Triang dmu to sort for myself now, bought as a non-runner for £8, so thanks for an alarming forewarning of what I might find! What a growler! I think I might look at a ringfield conversion if it’s as wonky as yours
I still have a Triang Hornby Flying Scotsman, the first version, it was bought new back in the day and it was always a noisy runner, pretty much like this DMU.
G'day Bill, for your DMU, I'd reccomend looking at a company called locosnstuff, he does his own style power bogies which might be useful if you are looking down the tenshodo route. Marks good to deal with
Hulloo Bill ,, yep noisey buggers these are ,, and very similar to the the double ender vic rail and transcontinental and doc shunters locos i have here.. I have 6 sets of them but the earlier sets and out of the 6 sets i have they are mostly all as noisy as .. but i do have 1 that is as quiet as a mouse. Thanks again for the oarsum videos you put on youtube for to learn from. Cheers from John in Australia.
Like all the old motors you get ones that run quietly. The only reason I can think of for why that is that the armatures on the quiet ones are perfectly balanced and the gears perfectly meshed. By sheer luck an no intent by Hornby.
Perhaps a water crane and a coaling stage on your shed siding would enhance that a little more. Plus maybe a workman's cabin. The workmen look good. Just a thought. I just ordered some moly grease. I have three locos in bits for service at the moment. Watching intently.
Hi Bill, looks like the roofs of the dmu have been repainted. They should be light grey. Yes a very noisy motor. As for putting a ringfield motor in yours you could try the power chassis from the Lima 117 dmu. Not exactly the same but possibly close enough.
The Triang Railways / Triang Hornby / Hornby Railways Metro-Cammel Class 101 DMU first appeared in 1958 with Mk.2 couplings. 1959 = Mk..3 tension lock couplings. 1962 = Seating added. 1962 = Centre coach added. 1970 to 1972 = British Railways blue livery. 1976 = Illuminated A7 route head code.
If you do manage to convert to a ringfield motor that would be a great video as I have one of these myself and I hate the motor and have thought can I get a lima ringfield into it just haven't worked out how to fasten it
Great to see these old Triang locos up and running! Would be interested to see you ideas for fitting another type on motor as I love running them, but not necessarily stuck on keeping the original motor and them in 100% original condition!?
good idea about the motor change, you are the man to sort it, your, right they are a horrible motor, i will defiantly be following you if you manage it, i had one of these i guess in the early 60s
yeah i have a hornby railways dmu i have converted to DCC now and i swapped the armature out from the old dock shunter as it was running really slow and was vibrating really bad as if ran and now she runs like a dream ill make a video explaining what i done if anyone's interested
Watching you patiently coaxing the model locomotives back to life has rekindled my desire to build a proper layout and make up for 45 years away from the (OO gauge) trackside. More importantly, seeing your CR ‘Grampian’ coaches and your approach to repairing old models has spurred me on to search eBay and fulfil my boyhood ambition of having a rake of ‘Grampians’ pulled by a CR single-wheeler 123 that was well beyond my modest 1960’s pocket money of half a crown (=12.5p). On practical note, I see that you use T-cut to clean commutators - have you used a glass-fibre cleaning pencil that would leave less residue? I ask, as I worked with electronic technicians throughout my working life and it was something they used routinely to clean contacts. Many thanks for all your videos
That's all good to hear. I've fulfilled a few boyhood dreams this last year or two. If you look at some of my older videos you'll see I did use a fibreglass pencil to clean commutators and contacts. I stopped using it for 3 reasons. 1. It scratches the copper. On old cylindrical commutators that's not so much of an issue but on ringfields it's noticeable and not good. 2. I got tired of people telling me not to use them because of reason 1. :) But more importantly...3. The things are a health hazard. The give off tiny little shards of fibreglass that get stuck in the skin and in the motor. T-cut does a far better job. Brasso would work as well and I always spray with contact cleaner to remove the residue. Fibreglass pencils should be binned! I guess for some pro electrical work they are quick and handy but I wouldn't ever use one again.
@@oobill Thank you for your prompt response to my comment and query regarding fibreglass pencils. I have only just come across your channel so have not yet seen the videos where you discuss their use. Your reasons for not using them make perfect sense and I shall certainly take on board the messages about commutator damage and the H&S problem of fine glass fibre shards.
Hiya budd I have the exact same model and it makes it around 4 times before slowing to a stop, now I’ve fully cleaned it and Relubed it, it runs exactly the same as has tonnes of small sparks from the brushes, would that concur with it needing new brushes or armature as I think the windings are slightly discoloured to but I’m used to working on newer motors. Thanks in advance
It's the only way I'm aware of. The alternative is to fit a neodymium but if the bearings are worn it might not like that. Even re-magnetising can cause an issue if the bearings are worn. If you're in the UK I can remag the motor for you for the price of return postage.
@@oobill that would be fantastic if you don’t mind, if there is anything wrong with the motor your the man that will know, the motor is in a special train I built might be easier to send the whole thing and I have another complete motor that’s doing the exact same thing
I once had a faulty video recorder. It was sent off for repair and came back a few days later accompanied by a small plastic bag containing Thomas the Tank engine which my 2 year old son had posted in the front the of the player.
Lovely older model but, as you so rightly say, that motor is noisy in spite of the smooth wheels. Case closed I think. I have learned something. The idea of an engine swap is intriguing and should give the sweet DMU a new lease on life if you find a way to do it. Let's hope so.
I wonder if maybe you didn’t put the wheel sets back in their original position when you put it back together ? Maybe just swapping them back to their original positions would’ve solved the problem ? Just a thought… As for the noise it actually sounds like I remember them on Birmingham New Street - Lichfield services back in the 70’s. I’ve always wanted one of these. I must keep a look out, but prices have probably gone crazy like all other model railway items in the last couple of years…
Hi Robin, I’ve just completed a full service on one of these DMUs. It runs very well going forward but not as smooth in reverse. I’ll follow your tip of switching the wheel sets in case they were not matched with their respective worm gears on reassembly. I also had a professional service/upgrade done on my Triang EMU (utilises the same power bogie). The armature was rewound in ‘lap’ mode and the wheel sets replaced with reduced flanges to suit code 100 Peco track. The result was a spectacular improvement; it runs better now than when originally purchased in 1958! Bill Thanks for your great and enjoyable videos. I learn a new tip or technique every time. Happy Modelling, T🚂
First thing I tried. All that happened was the rear of the bogie wobbled instead of the front. Gears replaced. Problem solved. I have encountered very bad running that was resolved by switching the wheel sets over a couple of times.
@@robinforrest7680 Not a stupid question at all. A very good question actually as it's a genuine solution to bad running after a rebuild especially with these sort of motors. I actually have footage of me talking about this very thing shot when making this video as I thought it was the problem initially. But it wasn't!
Interesting; turns out I bought the same model at a toy fair a couple of months ago- except mine's even older as it has Dublo style couplers, and seems pretty shagged, cosmetically speaking.
nice one Mr Bill... you got her running... "who needs DCC sound when the motor sounds as goid as that?@.... Neil🚂😎
That woman who ended up in the motor -- she was just trying to get to work, but the commute ate 'er!
Ouch....painful punnery!
hi Bill, great video, i was brought up with Triang Railways, the motors were a bit noisy but ran well unlike todays motors which are hit and miss, i have an R55 diesel unit with two motors in it, one motor is in the body to give diesel engine sound, great memories of the 60s as children, the Jinty was a firm favorite back then with smoke !!
Hi Bill, thank you for the superb service and sorting out the little old lady sabotage of the motor 👍🏻😊
Well done Bill. It brought memories back from 1990 with my Tri-ang-Hornby class 101 that I bought for my son in 1973 (My self really) and had to make the same repairs or buy better ear defenders. Thanks for a great video. Bill from Western Australia. Stay Safe
Great video thanks for sharing, interesting service giving me some tips, yes they are noisy motors that are on a lot of Triang models but there fun, thanks again John
There's been leaves on the line, there's been the wrong type of snow on the line but bodies in the drive is a new one on me!!!! Well done Bill. Nice repair job in an old un'.
That's how you made the Triang models work. Sacrifice passengers to the Great Machine God
Had one of the figures lost a arm........bet it`s in the armature ... sorry about that Bill .. love the t shirt
That noise brings back some memories of when I used to have one of those.
Very informative once again. I have a Dock Authority with the same motor but one of the screws on the underside will not budge to enable me to clean one of the axles properly. I have reverted to "your wonder-cleaner" as an alternative measure.
"Ha, Ha, Ha. Sorry! A couple of people have found their way into the motor!" That what happens when there's not enough conductors on the trains these days! Has Health & Safety been notified!? Seriously, another great video and a quiet Triangle motor. Cheers, Jim L
I've had mine since 1963. All I've ever done is maintenance, swapped the original serrated wheels for smooth ones, and converted to DCC. It does and always has, run smoothly and quietly, with slow running that matches modern locos. I also have the Dock Shunter from the same era which is basically the same power unit, but with larger wheels and that runs in the same manner. I don't know what you have against this motor unit - it has proper bronze bearings on the armature shaft, ball bearings to take the thrust from the armature shaft, lubrication pads, and in my case metal gears. It's far and away the best running unit I have from that era, particularly when compared to the awful unit in the Class 31 (and several others) which has badly fitting plastic bearings, that horrible spider for pick ups and nothing to take the end thrust.
Hi Bill love this video .I have a three coach ELI that runs really well.I have a problem with another of my locks . It is the Hornby Golden Shuttle and a pin has come out on one of the linkages on the motion rods . Do you think it would repair . Regards David
I have the same model DMU which is running badly which is a shame as it is a favourite. I would be very interested in seeing an motor swap if such a thing could be made to work. Really enjoy watching your channel and have learned a lot, thank you
Hey Bill where did you get your re magnetizer from and how much regards Craig
What cleaning spray were you using? Looks like a WD40 can with the folding handle but normal WD40 is a bad thing anyway. (Confirmed the hard way on one of my own older models). Is it an electrics cleaning version?
Yes. WD40 Contact Cleaner. Not ordinary WD40.
@@oobill Thanks for the confirmation.
Bill’s chuckling made me laugh too! The lengths people will go to to dodge the ticket collector. A pair of “auld wifies” from Morningside probably. Shameful. I’ve got a Triang dmu to sort for myself now, bought as a non-runner for £8, so thanks for an alarming forewarning of what I might find! What a growler! I think I might look at a ringfield conversion if it’s as wonky as yours
I still have a Triang Hornby Flying Scotsman, the first version, it was bought new back in the day and it was always a noisy runner, pretty much like this DMU.
G'day Bill, for your DMU, I'd reccomend looking at a company called locosnstuff, he does his own style power bogies which might be useful if you are looking down the tenshodo route. Marks good to deal with
Hulloo Bill ,, yep noisey buggers these are ,, and very similar to the the double ender vic rail and transcontinental and doc shunters locos i have here.. I have 6 sets of them but the earlier sets and out of the 6 sets i have they are mostly all as noisy as .. but i do have 1 that is as quiet as a mouse.
Thanks again for the oarsum videos you put on youtube for to learn from.
Cheers from John in Australia.
Like all the old motors you get ones that run quietly. The only reason I can think of for why that is that the armatures on the quiet ones are perfectly balanced and the gears perfectly meshed. By sheer luck an no intent by Hornby.
Bill enjoyed watching your video you done thanks for sharing kind regards DD.
Perhaps a water crane and a coaling stage on your shed siding would enhance that a little more. Plus maybe a workman's cabin. The workmen look good. Just a thought. I just ordered some moly grease. I have three locos in bits for service at the moment. Watching intently.
The only problem with a workmen's cabin is they would spend all their time in the cabin and no work would get done.
Hi Bill, looks like the roofs of the dmu have been repainted. They should be light grey. Yes a very noisy motor. As for putting a ringfield motor in yours you could try the power chassis from the Lima 117 dmu. Not exactly the same but possibly close enough.
The Triang Railways / Triang Hornby / Hornby Railways Metro-Cammel Class 101 DMU first appeared in 1958 with Mk.2 couplings.
1959 = Mk..3 tension lock couplings.
1962 = Seating added.
1962 = Centre coach added.
1970 to 1972 = British Railways blue livery.
1976 = Illuminated A7 route head code.
I have one of those and mine has serrated wheels. It sounds like it is grinding the track when it is driving along.😊
If you do manage to convert to a ringfield motor that would be a great video as I have one of these myself and I hate the motor and have thought can I get a lima ringfield into it just haven't worked out how to fasten it
Great to see these old Triang locos up and running! Would be interested to see you ideas for fitting another type on motor as I love running them, but not necessarily stuck on keeping the original motor and them in 100% original condition!?
Can we still purchase the remagnitiser you use
the noise was the screams of the people being mangled by the worm gear!!
good idea about the motor change, you are the man to sort it, your, right they are a horrible motor, i will defiantly be following you if you manage it, i had one of these i guess in the early 60s
yeah i have a hornby railways dmu i have converted to DCC now and i swapped the armature out from the old dock shunter as it was running really slow and was vibrating really bad as if ran and now she runs like a dream ill make a video explaining what i done if anyone's interested
Watching you patiently coaxing the model locomotives back to life has rekindled my desire to build a proper layout and make up for 45 years away from the (OO gauge) trackside. More importantly, seeing your CR ‘Grampian’ coaches and your approach to repairing old models has spurred me on to search eBay and fulfil my boyhood ambition of having a rake of ‘Grampians’ pulled by a CR single-wheeler 123 that was well beyond my modest 1960’s pocket money of half a crown (=12.5p). On practical note, I see that you use T-cut to clean commutators - have you used a glass-fibre cleaning pencil that would leave less residue? I ask, as I worked with electronic technicians throughout my working life and it was something they used routinely to clean contacts.
Many thanks for all your videos
That's all good to hear. I've fulfilled a few boyhood dreams this last year or two. If you look at some of my older videos you'll see I did use a fibreglass pencil to clean commutators and contacts. I stopped using it for 3 reasons. 1. It scratches the copper. On old cylindrical commutators that's not so much of an issue but on ringfields it's noticeable and not good. 2. I got tired of people telling me not to use them because of reason 1. :) But more importantly...3. The things are a health hazard. The give off tiny little shards of fibreglass that get stuck in the skin and in the motor. T-cut does a far better job. Brasso would work as well and I always spray with contact cleaner to remove the residue. Fibreglass pencils should be binned! I guess for some pro electrical work they are quick and handy but I wouldn't ever use one again.
@@oobill Thank you for your prompt response to my comment and query regarding fibreglass pencils. I have only just come across your channel so have not yet seen the videos where you discuss their use. Your reasons for not using them make perfect sense and I shall certainly take on board the messages about commutator damage and the H&S problem of fine glass fibre shards.
Nice job again bill, every video is a treat 👌
Hiya budd I have the exact same model and it makes it around 4 times before slowing to a stop, now I’ve fully cleaned it and Relubed it, it runs exactly the same as has tonnes of small sparks from the brushes, would that concur with it needing new brushes or armature as I think the windings are slightly discoloured to but I’m used to working on newer motors. Thanks in advance
Don't worry about sparking it'll go away. The motor may need a rewind or a replacement armature but more likely the magnet just needs remagnetised.
@@oobill can it be remagnatised without that tool you have or is that the only way, I was thinking it might need rewinding 😔
It's the only way I'm aware of. The alternative is to fit a neodymium but if the bearings are worn it might not like that. Even re-magnetising can cause an issue if the bearings are worn. If you're in the UK I can remag the motor for you for the price of return postage.
@@oobill that would be fantastic if you don’t mind, if there is anything wrong with the motor your the man that will know, the motor is in a special train I built might be easier to send the whole thing and I have another complete motor that’s doing the exact same thing
You can find my email in the About tab on my channel
How do I get in touch with you
I once had a faulty video recorder. It was sent off for repair and came back a few days later accompanied by a small plastic bag containing Thomas the Tank engine which my 2 year old son had posted in the front the of the player.
Lovely older model but, as you so rightly say, that motor is noisy in spite of the smooth wheels. Case closed I think. I have learned something. The idea of an engine swap is intriguing and should give the sweet DMU a new lease on life if you find a way to do it. Let's hope so.
I wonder if maybe you didn’t put the wheel sets back in their original position when you put it back together ? Maybe just swapping them back to their original positions would’ve solved the problem ? Just a thought…
As for the noise it actually sounds like I remember them on Birmingham New Street - Lichfield services back in the 70’s. I’ve always wanted one of these. I must keep a look out, but prices have probably gone crazy like all other model railway items in the last couple of years…
Hi Robin,
I’ve just completed a full service on one of these DMUs. It runs very well going forward but not as smooth in reverse.
I’ll follow your tip of switching the wheel sets in case they were not matched with their respective worm gears on reassembly.
I also had a professional service/upgrade done on my Triang EMU (utilises the same power bogie). The armature was rewound in ‘lap’ mode and the wheel sets replaced with reduced flanges to suit code 100 Peco track. The result was a spectacular improvement; it runs better now than when originally purchased in 1958!
Bill Thanks for your great and enjoyable videos. I learn a new tip or technique every time. Happy Modelling, T🚂
First thing I tried. All that happened was the rear of the bogie wobbled instead of the front. Gears replaced. Problem solved. I have encountered very bad running that was resolved by switching the wheel sets over a couple of times.
@@oobill stupid question by me 😬👍
@@robinforrest7680 Not a stupid question at all. A very good question actually as it's a genuine solution to bad running after a rebuild especially with these sort of motors. I actually have footage of me talking about this very thing shot when making this video as I thought it was the problem initially. But it wasn't!
I think your morley controller also contributes to the motor noise
Nah.
Interesting; turns out I bought the same model at a toy fair a couple of months ago- except mine's even older as it has Dublo style couplers, and seems pretty shagged, cosmetically speaking.
I want that T-shirt hahah
Love the tee shirt
Great video as always Bill
Nick Australia
Yep yet another good one ! I took the body of an airfix j72 as was a bit noisey i cleaned it and now it wont work at all lol
I have a blue one, it died a warriors death so when I get around to it I will do something, the motor is toast.
Another one fixed great video
A nana in the works.
Love the stowaways 🤣
Great job mate.
😢 it's a murder mystery
good vid bill keep up the good vids thanks .lee
Nice save
Get yourself a Bachmann one. They are a lot better, quieter, better detail, still only single drive but full pickups. A lot better all round.
It should have FUN not ELI .
Yes the DMU s are very noisy