You've done some involved repairs in the past but this one was the best. You took it to bits, put the bits in a plastic tub then put it all back together again. And it worked perfectly. Brilliant!
Another masterclass in locomotive repairs lovely to see her running well. The black cylinders look good and it's not unprotypical for LNER locomotives to have black cylinders in the apple green colour scheme - Green Arrow 4771 is currently in this condition
I have the same period "Cheshire" it wouldn't even think of running. Following your Ringfield motor videos and a couple of others, I have to say she's one of my favorite runners.
Very interesting. And admirable. You're a braver man than me. I will take things apart to fix them. But taking all of the wheels and motion and pickups apart like that, I'd be afraid that I'd never be able to get the blithering things back together properly.
I got one of these from ebay that was ready for the cowp, I had similar issues. A calm evening sorted mechanically, however it's repaint (not done by me) is a mess. It'd be easier to heavy weather it. I'm not geared up for a full respray. Ta Bill 😁
Not the easiest to get into ! Well done . I have a Cheshire . Fortunately she is very reliable and the loco wheels rotate freely . Good one . The black cylinders are much better and you don’t notice the lack of lining . A lovely wee engine that operated in Scotland and the North East .
Bill; thinking about the problem of slipping axles in split frame locos - specifically the Castle you repaired a year or so ago. Also someone, possibly you, glued up similar axle with a split gear/muff. It is possible to slightly enlarge the axle diameter by placing the part of the axle that goes in the gear over a piece of steel and 'knurling' it by rolling the edge of a file over it fairly hard. WEAR EYE PROTECTION in case you slip and things fly. To prevent the possibility of splitting the gear/muff that the axle goes into, it is worth exploring making a brass collar to slip over the end of the muff where the axle is. Perhaps K&S have a tube the right size, or at least a tube that can be drilled out to the right size. Simple matter to hold the brass in a vice and drill with a manual drill. We are looking for a force fit, and of course, when assembled the tubing must not foul anything in the mechanism. If it does, leave there, or get someone in a club who has a lathe to explore machining down the tube till it fits. Don't try to size it down with a drill; a drill is not a lathe. When finished, check the chassis for friction and short circuits, finally running for half an hour or so and checking the motor for heat - the next person to get the model might be an unsupervised ten year old kid. These are only suggestions for looking into. If anyone reading this is not experienced with power tools, discuss it with someone who is - you only have to be wrong once. You might notice I have been cautious on power tools. I have not tried this on any of these locos, but this is a common problem and has got me thinking. It is at least worth looking at. I use the knurling often in another context. If people out there are not experiences: join a club. I am no expert, but I REALLY listen to those who are. Oh what it is to own a screwdriver! Peter
Great job, Bill. Walschaerts valve gear can be very tricksy! I was wincing as the loose parts count in the pot quickly mounted up!! You need about fifteen fingers to put it all together again. I recently overhauled an eBay 'non-runner' GWR 4-4-0 County, which is essentially the same design. Thankfully, the vast bulk of the problems were in the tender drive. (It's still far from 100% and I think there may be some permanent damage to the armature/commutator, and/or a weakened magnet (as it runs very warm).) The loco wheels were rotating freely, so I didn't have to dismantle it. I had hoped you were going to show a less drastic way of taking it apart! Hey-ho. First question: Have you tried re-magnetising a Ringfield magnet yet? Second question: what is your "clock cleaning fluid", and how does it differ from the Contact Cleaner?
Those tender driven D49's were prone to the wheel lock on the locomotives, in fact a lot of those tender driven locomotives were also prone to the same fault.
Hi Bill. Is there no limit to your ability to repair and service locos? The only problem with that is you may have made a rod for your own back. There will surely come a day when you have to say "no" as you also have other things to be getting on with in your life. A great advert for your skills but unfortunately, I feel some people may be taking advantage of your generosity by asking for your help. Still, as long as you're happy to oblige, then I suppose everyone's a winner. As for me, I do my own servicing and repairs, no matter how long it takes to work it out. As the saying goes: 'God helps those who help themselves', and that coming from a devout atheist. Can't be bad can it. 😁 Keep up the good work matey! 👍
There is most definitely a limit! And I have said "No" to a few requests. Don't worry I only take on what I know I can do, what I think is worth repairing or what interests me.
Watching your videos, which I must say your a wizard at repairs. I was wondering how you get your engines etc for repair and to making your You tube videos, can anyone send you a problem loco?
Hi I am registered blind love listening to your repairs and advice I own many 00 gauge models 2 & 3 rail all much loo my wife just says why?. If I need a repair how do I contact your to request a repair regards Tony age 70 but stuck at 7 😂
You've done some involved repairs in the past but this one was the best. You took it to bits, put the bits in a plastic tub then put it all back together again. And it worked perfectly. Brilliant!
Interesting repair and service Bill
Nick Australia
Well done Bill that D49 was a real test. You deserve a medal for that one.
Another masterclass in locomotive repairs lovely to see her running well. The black cylinders look good and it's not unprotypical for LNER locomotives to have black cylinders in the apple green colour scheme - Green Arrow 4771 is currently in this condition
Good job. 👍 UK steam engines are beautiful!
Such a satisfying repair and service video.
That loco was a real “train wreck”. Great work Bill & very informative
I have the same period "Cheshire" it wouldn't even think of running. Following your Ringfield motor videos and a couple of others, I have to say she's one of my favorite runners.
Good work again Bill. That looks and runs so much better than when you started 👍
Yes. Decals and cylinders look nice now !!
Very interesting. And admirable. You're a braver man than me. I will take things apart to fix them. But taking all of the wheels and motion and pickups apart like that, I'd be afraid that I'd never be able to get the blithering things back together properly.
What a great job you've done on that handsome locomotive. She really dod look like she was ready for the scrapheap.
Looks great running around the layout! Nice job.👍🇨🇦
Top Man Bill. You saved another loco from the scrapheap.
I got one of these from ebay that was ready for the cowp, I had similar issues. A calm evening sorted mechanically, however it's repaint (not done by me) is a mess. It'd be easier to heavy weather it. I'm not geared up for a full respray. Ta Bill 😁
Nice! You should get a reliant robin for the layout
Your a better man than I - patience of a Saint - So well worth it , whatta Beautiful Engine - Great Job 👏🏻 🤩👍🏻
She looks lovely running now well done
Runs very well after your work Bill, I really like the green LNER locomotives. Great job.
Not the easiest to get into ! Well done . I have a Cheshire . Fortunately she is very reliable and the loco wheels rotate freely . Good one . The black cylinders are much better and you don’t notice the lack of lining . A lovely wee engine that operated in Scotland and the North East .
Bill; thinking about the problem of slipping axles in split frame locos - specifically the Castle you repaired a year or so ago. Also someone, possibly you, glued up similar axle with a split gear/muff. It is possible to slightly enlarge the axle diameter by placing the part of the axle that goes in the gear over a piece of steel and 'knurling' it by rolling the edge of a file over it fairly hard. WEAR EYE PROTECTION in case you slip and things fly. To prevent the possibility of splitting the gear/muff that the axle goes into, it is worth exploring making a brass collar to slip over the end of the muff where the axle is. Perhaps K&S have a tube the right size, or at least a tube that can be drilled out to the right size. Simple matter to hold the brass in a vice and drill with a manual drill. We are looking for a force fit, and of course, when assembled the tubing must not foul anything in the mechanism. If it does, leave there, or get someone in a club who has a lathe to explore machining down the tube till it fits. Don't try to size it down with a drill; a drill is not a lathe. When finished, check the chassis for friction and short circuits, finally running for half an hour or so and checking the motor for heat - the next person to get the model might be an unsupervised ten year old kid.
These are only suggestions for looking into. If anyone reading this is not experienced with power tools, discuss it with someone who is - you only have to be wrong once. You might notice I have been cautious on power tools.
I have not tried this on any of these locos, but this is a common problem and has got me thinking. It is at least worth looking at. I use the knurling often in another context. If people out there are not experiences: join a club. I am no expert, but I REALLY listen to those who are.
Oh what it is to own a screwdriver!
Peter
Great job, Bill. Walschaerts valve gear can be very tricksy!
I was wincing as the loose parts count in the pot quickly mounted up!! You need about fifteen fingers to put it all together again.
I recently overhauled an eBay 'non-runner' GWR 4-4-0 County, which is essentially the same design. Thankfully, the vast bulk of the problems were in the tender drive. (It's still far from 100% and I think there may be some permanent damage to the armature/commutator, and/or a weakened magnet (as it runs very warm).) The loco wheels were rotating freely, so I didn't have to dismantle it. I had hoped you were going to show a less drastic way of taking it apart! Hey-ho.
First question: Have you tried re-magnetising a Ringfield magnet yet?
Second question: what is your "clock cleaning fluid", and how does it differ from the Contact Cleaner?
Great work bill very interesting restoration quite a complicated little loco considering it doesn't even have a motor 👌
Most satisfying, thanks!
Great work Bill, a master class 👏
Lovely job!👍
Great variation in this video Bill and LNER always a winner nice work
Hey Bill you really do have a magic touch don't you? Well done mate. Regards, Terry.
Great job you have Dun on the D49 Bill to get it to Run
nice investigation on the running gear informative
Those tender driven D49's were prone to the wheel lock on the locomotives, in fact a lot of those tender driven locomotives were also prone to the same fault.
Hi Bill.
Is there no limit to your ability to repair and service locos? The only problem with that is you may have made a rod for your own back. There will surely come a day when you have to say "no" as you also have other things to be getting on with in your life. A great advert for your skills but unfortunately, I feel some people may be taking advantage of your generosity by asking for your help. Still, as long as you're happy to oblige, then I suppose everyone's a winner. As for me, I do my own servicing and repairs, no matter how long it takes to work it out. As the saying goes: 'God helps those who help themselves', and that coming from a devout atheist. Can't be bad can it. 😁 Keep up the good work matey! 👍
There is most definitely a limit! And I have said "No" to a few requests. Don't worry I only take on what I know I can do, what I think is worth repairing or what interests me.
a little bit of matt varnish will hold decals nicely.jpj
So does decalfix. The trouble with varnish is if you then want to remove the decals.
@@oobill indeed you are right,best wishes.jpj
Nice job Bill.
Excellent job
Watching your videos, which I must say your a wizard at repairs. I was wondering how you get your engines etc for repair and to making your You tube videos, can anyone send you a problem loco?
Anyone in the UK. Just email me pics and details. Address in the About tab on my channel.
Ebay seller : in perfect working order, like new .
Hi I am registered blind love listening to your repairs and advice I own many 00 gauge models 2 & 3 rail all much loo my wife just says why?.
If I need a repair how do I contact your to request a repair regards Tony age 70 but stuck at 7 😂
Wow, What on Earth do some people do to their models?... I hope that David did not pay too much for it from Ebay.. !