Aw Lewis that tip about the Walschaert’s motion adjustment is pure genius. At least one side of many of my Hornby locos have been driving me nuts for years. Just spent 20mins correcting 5 of them. Thank you!
Ah pleased to hear you found it useful. I was the same, weird how Hornby always had it right on one side and wrong on the other… On the newer stuff like the 9F and 2MT, they seem to have a nailed though.
Lovely work thanks for showing! I usually use the Springside lamps for my LNER locos liking the little jewel glistening in the light. Rgds from Holland, Joachim
Some very good tips there to improve a loco without going overboard. Now you've displayed the valve gear issue I'm going to have to spend the next few days checking and adjusting all my locos.😊 Excellent video Lewis. Cheers!
Thanks. I got those corridor connectors off eBay, I think it was these: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144620348710?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pYdj0UriQT-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=mc3WF4lfR6q&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@MouldyRaspberry very knowledgeable. I can't say I've even noticed the valve gear, but might have to have a look and see when I eventually get the layout done 👍
Hi Lewis. 100% with you regrading the lamps and share your OCD in trying to ensure their positioning correctly represent both the era and the train being hauled! Having said that, I'm not judgemental in any way of modellers who couldn't care less. I use a tiny amount of black tack to secure lamps to locos that do not have the necessary brackets. The crew, and other characters, you add to your locos & layout certainly add to the realism. I particularly like the driver leaning out of the cab and the signalman on his balcony. The muffled background speech is also very effective.
Spot on re valve gear. I've been going on about this to Hornby for years and they take no notice. Watch out for external admission e.g. as you say the rebuilt Bulleids, also the SDJR 2-8-0's s and some internal admission locos e.g. Woolwich 2-6-0's and derivatives!
Good points! They seem to have got it sorted on the recent very recent new tooling’s like the 2MT, 9F and from what I can tell the black 5 - but maybe that’s a fluke!
BRILLIANT "MOULDY RASPBERRY" WITH VERY HELPFUL TIPS. I've added some real life railway technical notes & rules (below) to help explain. HEADLAMPS: As "Mouldy Raspberry" has mentioned the LMS; GWR; LNER & BR used the four position CLASS Headcode system. Usually with oil headlamps, (except LNER/BR Great Eastern section which used White Discs in daylight). The Southern Railway & BR Southern Region used a 6 position method with White Discs in daylight hours & oil lamps at night, which indicated the Trains ROUTE (not Class) because of the complexity & density of traffic on the Southern Network. The four position system had 10 CLASS options. Before 1948 these were coded Classes A to K, and there were slight differences of what type of train fell into each category on each of the GWR; LMS & LNER Railways !!!. When BR began in 1948, they introduced a "Standardised" method for ALL BR Regions except the Southern, using Class NUMBERS 1 to 0. Where 1 was an express passenger; 2 a stopping passenger etc.... This system was in use until steam vanished in 1968. Although BR had started introducing the Four Character Headcode (roll round blind) system on other types of modern traction. The Southern Region was again the exception as it replaced the steam era 6 position Route codes with a two digit roll round blind Route Code system already in use on Southern EMU's. The BR Standard headlamp codes from 1948 onwards can be found on the "Standard BR Headcodes" website. Beware many of the websites showing "Headcodes" are incorrect or in many cases show PRE BR (GWR/LMS/LNER) set of codes, without explaining which !!! SOUTHERN RAILWAY & BR SOUTHERN REGION Route codes can be found in diagrammatic form on the "Southern Email Group" website (for free). NOTE: This system was subdivided into 3 separate tables of codes, one for each of the three Southern Divisions: South Eastern; Central & South Western, and the website shows all three. TAIL LAMPS: Displaying a red light HAD to be placed ONLY on the last vehicle of every train. No tail lamps were allowed on any intermediate vehicles & especially NOT of the rear of a loco hauling a train whether they were illuminated or not !!! KADEE COUPLINGS: Are of course a virtual copy of the real life British Buckeye (a slightly smaller version of the American "Knuckle") semi-Automatic rigid coupling. Introduced to Britain from the USA in the 1880's when Mr. Pullman arrived in Britain with Shiploads of his Pullman Dining & Sleeping Cars. These model couplings are fully automatic and can be actuated by Kadee split pole magnets placed IN or UNDER the track !!! For British models with NEM coupling pockets Kadee couplings Nos: 17; 18; 19; & 20 are needed. Where 17 has the shortest clip in shank & 20 has the longest clip in shank. And are of course a lot more realistic than the silly toy coupling provided. SMOKEBOX DARTS: The inner handle is the locking handle, while the outer handle is the screw up tightener ! Which means the inner handle has to be in the 6 "O" Clock position when the door is locked shut. The "tightener" is necessary because a slight vacuum has to be maintained within the smokebox as the loco is running. So has to screw the door VERY tightly shut to ensure this vacuum, so can be found in any position once tightened.
Hi Lewis I do totally agree with you regarding valve gear settings. I know I have touched on it before. In the main you can change the settings as you quite rightly suggest. Some crank pins though have flat sides. I do think that Hornby may have turned the corner now if you take a look at their Standard class 2MT recent releases.
That is indeed a very useful video Lewis! My locomotive fleet is boxed for the moment and 'The AnneliesVille RR' is dismantled due tu a move to the North of France in order to be closer to my family in Ghent Belgium. But hopefully next winter the train hobby will start anew and improving the Steam Locomotives with the advise you give will improve the realism. Thanks for sharing & success ! Regards, Filip
High Lewis that was interesting ,I’ve found the biggest difference is to add a crew ,that really does make a difference big improvement especially half cabs .😊
Wow those darts do make such a difference ' ...the lamps too, I have a collection of the real sized ones, mainly from the 30s to 60s, the headlamps, square and cylindrical have a red aspect within that turns into position to double as a taillight for running in reverse. Great video, models look very realistic.
Hi Lewis, another great video. I especially liked your lamps, I wated to get some you could take on and off to makes the correct headcodes years back but nobody made them then, I've since forgotten all about them until now. Might have to revisit that idea again. Your valve gear tip was a good one, I never realised they don't make them right in the first place.............Going to revisit that bit of the video again, cya! Thanks as always, all the best Dave.
I like your thoughts Lewis on the loco crew and the way some people go on about getting the figures as accurate as possible but when the loco goes by you can't see that accuracy. It's the same with figures in coaches and painting the interiors and having dinner laid out on the dining coach tables. Once again when the train goes you're just not going to be able to see it all. Those Modelu lamps are a real money saver and if you didn't want to have the red tail lamp permanently on the coach you can use Tacky Wax from Deluxe Materials. The little pot of wax will last you a life time and is better than black tak which is extremely sticky. Tacky Wax is enough to hold the lamp in place but also easy to remove. The lamp positioning conundrum looking at the engine facing the smoke box. Class 1 which has two lamps one above each buffer indicates a train either express passenger or newspaper train. The same code also meant a breakdown, snow-plough, a light engine on it's way to assist a disabled train or an officer's special that is not booked to stop within a section. Class 2 is a single lamp at the top of a smoke box shows a train meaning an ordinary passenger train, branch passenger train or mixed train. A breakdown train, snow-plough train also carried this code if "off duty". Both class 3 and 4 were represented by the same pattern of lamps, one above the left buffer and one above the coupling hook which indicated empty passenger stock, parcels or perishable loads such as fish, fruit, livestock or milk were classed as class 3 as long as all vehicles conformed to coaching-stock specifications. Class 4 meant a freight train with automatic brakes on not less than 90% of vehicles (fully fitted). Class 5 which is one lamp above the left buffer and one lamp at the top of the smoke box describes an express freight train with automatic brakes on at least 50% of the vehicles. Class 6 is a above the coupling hook and the other lamp above the right buffer means an express freight with automatic brakes on not less than 20% of the vehicles. Class 7 is one lamp over the right buffer and one lamp at the top of the smoke box means an express unfitted freight. Class 8 is one lamp above the coupling hook and one lamp at the top of the smoke box is just a fully unfitted freight train. Class 9 is one lamp over the right buffer means a branch pick-up freight train but also an officer's special or ballast train due to stop within the section. Class O is one lamp above the coupling hook and means single or multiple "light" engines hauling no more than two brake vans. Royal head code is 4 lamps, one on top of the smoke box and one over the left buffer, one over the coupling hook, and one over the right buffer when hauling the royal train or a train that's not the special royal train but a train that's conveying royalty. The Nene Valley Railway conveyed Prince Edward when he opened the railway's Peterborough extension. The train comprised of six newly painted BR mark 1's and the engine was their BR class 5 73050 painted in green and carrying the royal headcode.
@@MouldyRaspberry Yes there is footage of that in one of the Railscene video tapes Lewis, but I can't off hand remember which one. The BR standard 5 was painted in light green livery. Guests for the ceremony were brought to the railway by Deltic D9000 Royal Scots Grey. Apparently Prince Edward had been participating in some sort of stunt at Cambridge University and was delighted to officiate at the opening. The producer of the Railscene videos said some unkind words about the Nene Valley Railway in that he didn't like the use of "foreign" stock even though the railway is liked by TV and film people. He described the livery of the standard five as a "strange hue of green" or was that 850 Lord Nelson in the 80's. The railway scenes in the Bond movie Octopussy were filmed at the Nene Valley Railway which was supposed to be communist East Germany. Martin Grace once a stunt man broke his back on the railway hanging off the outside of a passenger coach. A section of line had been cleared of line side obstacles but the train when into the next section that hadn't been cleared and Martin struck a post. It took him numerous operations and a lot of medical care for him to be able to walk again. In the Bond movie For Your Eyes Only he plays James Bond in the opening sequence hanging off a helicopter which is flying around the now demolished Beckton Gas Works.
Electronic repair kits also have multiple sizes of those hex bolt drivers, as well as many other odd screw bits you may run into. You can get them fairl cheap
Hi Lewis, another fine missive. I would like to mention in regard to valve timing, (usually) piston valves are timed as you say. But, slide valves are the opposite! I know on my 1.5 inch scale 4-8-4, with Baker Valve Gear and slide valves ( made to look like piston valves externally) My eccentric lever is leading. I reckon I could have some fun arguments about that😊 BTW, although this is a American Loco my plans were drawn by your famous Henry Greenly.
Yes I sent you the footage Lewis of 73050 on it's royal train duty and I didn't include the southern region disc interpretation because it would fill a book!. Thank you for pointing out the cock up with the valve gear as I have a large number of Hornby locos and all with Walschaets valve gear that I need to check because no doubt Hornby got it wrong. I'll no doubt be doing a Officer Crabtree whilst doing it and saying "oh bigger it!".
Also Lewis for Class O with light engine movements like when a train comes into Misselthwaite and has to run round the train a lamp with a red indication would be put over the coupling hook of the now rear facing end of the loco and a white lamp over the leading coupling hook that was next to the train. This indicates to the signalman that this is a light engine movement and not an engine where the train has broken away even though it's pretty obvious. The Southern Region used discs but they denoted the route a train was taking rather than the type of train it was. They only used discs in the daytime for at night they had lighted lamps. With the Modelu lamps this is easy and quick to achieve.
Great heads up on improving the models we have. The lamps is most likely a thing for me that i'll do for the 3 steamies i have, 1 (most expensive model in my collection)has a crew installed. The others wont really apply as SAR steam locos(most of them)has a lockwheel at smoke box door. Im not gonna fiddle mechanically with the flagship model to work on anything mechanical as another model was worked on and it had a mishap jus falling on table, not even floor and cab broke😢. Looking forward to more of your videos and getting my "patient" fixed
Great tips. I've been meaning to get lamps for a while. Modelrail Scotland in a couple of weeks, so..... If you want some different crew figures Dart castings ones are good. I'm no great shakes at figure painting either, but I found them easy to do. Cheers
I don't know much about British trains and the light situation always confused me as it as I never saw a logic in it. So thanks for explaining it a bit that it has to do with what sort of train it is. In mainland Europe it's mostly 2 or 3 lamps in the front and one or 2 red in the back. And front older trains having 2 side by side like a car and when 3 it was in a L or A shape. On like German steamers they where pretty early on fixed lights and no longer loose lanterns. So having removable lanterns is a strange but interesting thing to see. And models not having lights as standard would be a no go here.
Yes I’ve heard many British modellers compare what we have to German manufacturers and I think the consensus is the standard and innovation is much higher than what we have.
I use Modelu lamps Mr Mouldy but my fingers are a bit like carrots these days and am forever breaking the little handle on the top. Very good lamps though. 😊
Aside from crew fgures, nothing here directly applies to North American railways. That does not mean thisvepisode is wasted for us! The point you are making, Lewis, is that small details do make a difference! Modelers need to examine their equipment with an eye to realism. Well executed, though minor, changes, like stage props for a play, can contribute to the illusion that our layouts are real.
That’s very true Steve, appreciate it. I think American models tend to be higher spec than ours, from what I’ve seen online anyway. Maybe because theres a bigger market and more competition
Always great content, this in particular was super helpful! Thanks Lewis! 😊 I was wondering, what glue do you use to add accessories to the loco beyond the dart? So for example, adding plastic details included in detail packs? 😊 Thanks Hylt
I know, Lewis, my friend! Perhaps you do twelve coaches on a long Express train with some engines pulling them. Like more Great Western Railway Hall Class 4-6-0 Tender Engines, more more British Railway Standard Class 5mt 4-6-0s, some Great Northern Railway J50 0-6-0 Tank Engines, London and North Eastern Railway Gresley A3 Pacific Class 4-6-2 Tender Engines, and South Eastern and Chatham Railway C Class 0-6-0 Tender Engines. Especially raising more to buy them and other stuff.
@@MouldyRaspberry Correct. Especially with more headcodes, headboards, headlamps, and white disks to put on the bufferbeams and headboards of the engines.
It's interesting how people perceive detail differently. To me buffer beam detail on models always looks underscale, probably because I'm used to seeing real-life locomotives from below.
Good evening Mouldy! I was wondering if you could possibly help me please. I would like to get some sort of ideas towards steam locomotives that ran near my village of Hillsborough, County Down, N.Ireland. I’ve only started out and to date what I’ve found is locomotives with a: 2,2, makeup or 2,2,2, or one that’s baffling me is a 2,2,2,WT? Is it very hard to change the colour of a locomotive if it’s default is say, Green but maybe I need it in Blue but it can’t be bought in the required colour. Yours sincerely, ross
If you mean the lamps, it’s these: www.modelu3d.co.uk/product-category/detailing-components/loco-rolling-stock-lamps/ These are the door darts www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/products/brass-wire-etc/turned-smokebox
Isn't it ironic: prewar Hornby had the lamps, and pamphlets so you could do the correct train codes. A model generation later Hornby Dublo had their nameboards and the coachboards, so you could run your named express. I say Ironic as they were all frowned upon as being toylike and just playing trains as your 3 coach "merseysider" apparently wasn't good enough for railway modelling, or hanging the correct headlight codes on the smokebox of your brahnam moor wasn't acceptable as it was Hornby 0 and so they fell from favour. Modellers can be a fickle bunch. Sometimes they take all the fun out of it.
How they are still getting valve gear wrong is beyond me when they must browse hundreds of photos and go to measure up the real thing. I rather have that correct than a cab with dials showing all the markings you cannot even see when the model is on the layout.
Fitting lamps isn't an improvement, that's just a decision left for you to make. Besides, headlamps aren't always on the topmost bracket. The topmost bracket isn't just used for headlamp codes, it's also used for headboards like The Cambrian Coast Express for example. When Dapol Foxcote Manor arrives in my home, she'll have the honor of wearing a Santa Special headboard created and sent to me by Loco Leighton, another TH-cam friend of mine.
![[LIVE] BABYMONSTER(베이비몬스터) - DRIP | 두시탈출 컬투쇼](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UG05pxLGwzc/mqdefault.jpg)
Aw Lewis that tip about the Walschaert’s motion adjustment is pure genius. At least one side of many of my Hornby locos have been driving me nuts for years. Just spent 20mins correcting 5 of them. Thank you!
Ah pleased to hear you found it useful. I was the same, weird how Hornby always had it right on one side and wrong on the other… On the newer stuff like the 9F and 2MT, they seem to have a nailed though.
Lovely work thanks for showing! I usually use the Springside lamps for my LNER locos liking the little jewel glistening in the light. Rgds from Holland, Joachim
Thanks Joachim 👍🏻
Thanks for that. Ive heard of this problem many times but never remember seeing how to put it right. Brilliantly simple, thanks 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Robert, glad you liked it 👍🏻
Some very good tips there to improve a loco without going overboard.
Now you've displayed the valve gear issue I'm going to have to spend the next few days checking and adjusting all my locos.😊
Excellent video Lewis. Cheers!
Thanks! Ha, once you spot it you can’t unsee it!
I love what you done with your corridors (approx 4mins 40s in). Any chance of a video on that?
Thanks. I got those corridor connectors off eBay, I think it was these:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144620348710?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pYdj0UriQT-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=mc3WF4lfR6q&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
These were some fantastic tips. I really appreciate the work you do. Thank you for everything you do for the hobby 🚂
Thanks very much, glad you found it useful 👍🏻
Here here 👏
@@MouldyRaspberry very knowledgeable. I can't say I've even noticed the valve gear, but might have to have a look and see when I eventually get the layout done 👍
Superb work ! And, more important, easy to do. I'm in for the lamps, small detail with great effect.
Thanks Olivier 👍🏻
Thanks for that Lewis! The lamps are a great idea!!!👍👍
You’re welcome, glad you enjoyed it 👍🏻
Hi Lewis. 100% with you regrading the lamps and share your OCD in trying to ensure their positioning correctly represent both the era and the train being hauled! Having said that, I'm not judgemental in any way of modellers who couldn't care less.
I use a tiny amount of black tack to secure lamps to locos that do not have the necessary brackets.
The crew, and other characters, you add to your locos & layout certainly add to the realism. I particularly like the driver leaning out of the cab and the signalman on his balcony. The muffled background speech is also very effective.
Ah I’ve been meaning to get some black tack actually, that’s a great idea!
Well that was a very pleasant watch Lewis,I already do the tips that you demonstrate,but they certainly need to be aired,nicely done mate.😊
Thanks Brian 👍🏻
Spot on re valve gear. I've been going on about this to Hornby for years and they take no notice. Watch out for external admission e.g. as you say the rebuilt Bulleids, also the SDJR 2-8-0's s and some internal admission locos e.g. Woolwich 2-6-0's and derivatives!
Good points! They seem to have got it sorted on the recent very recent new tooling’s like the 2MT, 9F and from what I can tell the black 5 - but maybe that’s a fluke!
Very nice tips, excellent on the valve gear and radius rods
Thank you 👍🏻
Nice video Lewis! Some very good tips. I’ll deffo be checking out those modelu lamps. Thank you
Thanks mate, glad you found it useful 👍🏻
BRILLIANT "MOULDY RASPBERRY" WITH VERY HELPFUL TIPS.
I've added some real life railway technical notes & rules (below) to help explain.
HEADLAMPS: As "Mouldy Raspberry" has mentioned the LMS; GWR; LNER & BR used the four position CLASS Headcode system. Usually with oil headlamps, (except LNER/BR Great Eastern section which used White Discs in daylight). The Southern Railway & BR Southern Region used a 6 position method with White Discs in daylight hours & oil lamps at night, which indicated the Trains ROUTE (not Class) because of the complexity & density of traffic on the Southern Network.
The four position system had 10 CLASS options. Before 1948 these were coded Classes A to K, and there were slight differences of what type of train fell into each category on each of the GWR; LMS & LNER Railways !!!. When BR began in 1948, they introduced a "Standardised" method for ALL BR Regions except the Southern, using Class NUMBERS 1 to 0. Where 1 was an express passenger; 2 a stopping passenger etc.... This system was in use until steam vanished in 1968. Although BR had started introducing the Four Character Headcode (roll round blind) system on other types of modern traction. The Southern Region was again the exception as it replaced the steam era 6 position Route codes with a two digit roll round blind Route Code system already in use on Southern EMU's.
The BR Standard headlamp codes from 1948 onwards can be found on the "Standard BR Headcodes" website. Beware many of the websites showing "Headcodes" are incorrect or in many cases show PRE BR (GWR/LMS/LNER) set of codes, without explaining which !!!
SOUTHERN RAILWAY & BR SOUTHERN REGION Route codes can be found in diagrammatic form on the "Southern Email Group" website (for free). NOTE: This system was subdivided into 3 separate tables of codes, one for each of the three Southern Divisions: South Eastern; Central & South Western, and the website shows all three.
TAIL LAMPS: Displaying a red light HAD to be placed ONLY on the last vehicle of every train. No tail lamps were allowed on any intermediate vehicles & especially NOT of the rear of a loco hauling a train whether they were illuminated or not !!!
KADEE COUPLINGS: Are of course a virtual copy of the real life British Buckeye (a slightly smaller version of the American "Knuckle") semi-Automatic rigid coupling. Introduced to Britain from the USA in the 1880's when Mr. Pullman arrived in Britain with Shiploads of his Pullman Dining & Sleeping Cars. These model couplings are fully automatic and can be actuated by Kadee split pole magnets placed IN or UNDER the track !!! For British models with NEM coupling pockets Kadee couplings Nos: 17; 18; 19; & 20 are needed. Where 17 has the shortest clip in shank & 20 has the longest clip in shank. And are of course a lot more realistic than the silly toy coupling provided.
SMOKEBOX DARTS: The inner handle is the locking handle, while the outer handle is the screw up tightener ! Which means the inner handle has to be in the 6 "O" Clock position when the door is locked shut. The "tightener" is necessary because a slight vacuum has to be maintained within the smokebox as the loco is running. So has to screw the door VERY tightly shut to ensure this vacuum, so can be found in any position once tightened.
Very interesting thoughts and excellent demonstrations and executions of your thoughts! Another grand video!
Thank you kind sir!
Hi Lewis I do totally agree with you regarding valve gear settings. I know I have touched on it before. In the main you can change the settings as you quite rightly suggest. Some crank pins though have flat sides. I do think that Hornby may have turned the corner now if you take a look at their Standard class 2MT recent releases.
Yes I think you’re right about the 2MT, the 9F was spot on as well and the new black five looks right as well.
That is indeed a very useful video Lewis! My locomotive fleet is boxed for the moment and 'The AnneliesVille RR' is dismantled due tu a move to the North of France in order to be closer to my family in Ghent Belgium. But hopefully next winter the train hobby will start anew and improving the Steam Locomotives with the advise you give will improve the realism. Thanks for sharing & success ! Regards, Filip
Thanks Filip! Good luck with the move!
High Lewis that was interesting ,I’ve found the biggest difference is to add a crew ,that really does make a difference big improvement especially half cabs .😊
Cheers Steve - I agree!
Hi Lewis wonderful stuff especially the drive gear when you do one side do have to change the other side as well . thanks Lewis.
Thanks Tony. Yes sometime it’s right on one side and wrong on the other side, no idea why!
Awesome video as usual Lewis!!! Thank you for sharing. Cheers Onno.
Thanks Onno 👍🏻
Wow those darts do make such a difference ' ...the lamps too, I have a collection of the real sized ones, mainly from the 30s to 60s, the headlamps, square and cylindrical have a red aspect within that turns into position to double as a taillight for running in reverse. Great video, models look very realistic.
They do! Ah very nice, I’ve been keeping an eye out for a full sized lamp as well!
Hi Lewis, another great video. I especially liked your lamps, I wated to get some you could take on and off to makes the correct headcodes years back but nobody made them then, I've since forgotten all about them until now. Might have to revisit that idea again. Your valve gear tip was a good one, I never realised they don't make them right in the first place.............Going to revisit that bit of the video again, cya! Thanks as always, all the best Dave.
Thanks Dave!
I like your thoughts Lewis on the loco crew and the way some people go on about getting the figures as accurate as possible but when the loco goes by you can't see that accuracy. It's the same with figures in coaches and painting the interiors and having dinner laid out on the dining coach tables. Once again when the train goes you're just not going to be able to see it all.
Those Modelu lamps are a real money saver and if you didn't want to have the red tail lamp permanently on the coach you can use Tacky Wax from Deluxe Materials. The little pot of wax will last you a life time and is better than black tak which is extremely sticky. Tacky Wax is enough to hold the lamp in place but also easy to remove.
The lamp positioning conundrum looking at the engine facing the smoke box.
Class 1 which has two lamps one above each buffer indicates a train either express passenger or newspaper train. The same code also meant a breakdown, snow-plough, a light engine on it's way to assist a disabled train or an officer's special that is not booked to stop within a section.
Class 2 is a single lamp at the top of a smoke box shows a train meaning an ordinary passenger train, branch passenger train or mixed train. A breakdown train, snow-plough train also carried this code if "off duty".
Both class 3 and 4 were represented by the same pattern of lamps, one above the left buffer and one above the coupling hook which indicated empty passenger stock, parcels or perishable loads such as fish, fruit, livestock or milk were classed as class 3 as long as all vehicles conformed to coaching-stock specifications. Class 4 meant a freight train with automatic brakes on not less than 90% of vehicles (fully fitted).
Class 5 which is one lamp above the left buffer and one lamp at the top of the smoke box describes an express freight train with automatic brakes on at least 50% of the vehicles.
Class 6 is a above the coupling hook and the other lamp above the right buffer means an express freight with automatic brakes on not less than 20% of the vehicles.
Class 7 is one lamp over the right buffer and one lamp at the top of the smoke box means an express unfitted freight.
Class 8 is one lamp above the coupling hook and one lamp at the top of the smoke box is just a fully unfitted freight train.
Class 9 is one lamp over the right buffer means a branch pick-up freight train but also an officer's special or ballast train due to stop within the section.
Class O is one lamp above the coupling hook and means single or multiple "light" engines hauling no more than two brake vans.
Royal head code is 4 lamps, one on top of the smoke box and one over the left buffer, one over the coupling hook, and one over the right buffer when hauling the royal train or a train that's not the special royal train but a train that's conveying royalty. The Nene Valley Railway conveyed Prince Edward when he opened the railway's Peterborough extension. The train comprised of six newly painted BR mark 1's and the engine was their BR class 5 73050 painted in green and carrying the royal headcode.
Thanks for the info Roy, very helpful. Wow I didn’t know 73050 headed a royal train! Wonder if there is any footage of that.
@@MouldyRaspberry Yes there is footage of that in one of the Railscene video tapes Lewis, but I can't off hand remember which one. The BR standard 5 was painted in light green livery. Guests for the ceremony were brought to the railway by Deltic D9000 Royal Scots Grey.
Apparently Prince Edward had been participating in some sort of stunt at Cambridge University and was delighted to officiate at the opening.
The producer of the Railscene videos said some unkind words about the Nene Valley Railway in that he didn't like the use of "foreign" stock even though the railway is liked by TV and film people. He described the livery of the standard five as a "strange hue of green" or was that 850 Lord Nelson in the 80's.
The railway scenes in the Bond movie Octopussy were filmed at the Nene Valley Railway which was supposed to be communist East Germany. Martin Grace once a stunt man broke his back on the railway hanging off the outside of a passenger coach. A section of line had been cleared of line side obstacles but the train when into the next section that hadn't been cleared and Martin struck a post. It took him numerous operations and a lot of medical care for him to be able to walk again.
In the Bond movie For Your Eyes Only he plays James Bond in the opening sequence hanging off a helicopter which is flying around the now demolished Beckton Gas Works.
Electronic repair kits also have multiple sizes of those hex bolt drivers, as well as many other odd screw bits you may run into. You can get them fairl cheap
That’s good to know, thanks 👍🏻
Always great videos.Thank you.
Thanks Rod 👍🏻
Hi Lewis, another fine missive. I would like to mention in regard to valve timing, (usually) piston valves are timed as you say. But, slide valves are the opposite! I know on my 1.5 inch scale 4-8-4, with Baker Valve Gear and slide valves ( made to look like piston valves externally) My eccentric lever is leading. I reckon I could have some fun arguments about that😊 BTW, although this is a American Loco my plans were drawn by your famous Henry Greenly.
Thanks Peter - that’s interesting! You can go down deep down the rabbit hole with this subject 🤣
Yes I sent you the footage Lewis of 73050 on it's royal train duty and I didn't include the southern region disc interpretation because it would fill a book!. Thank you for pointing out the cock up with the valve gear as I have a large number of Hornby locos and all with Walschaets valve gear that I need to check because no doubt Hornby got it wrong. I'll no doubt be doing a Officer Crabtree whilst doing it and saying "oh bigger it!".
Lewis, a very interesting video with great tips. Cheers Greg
Thanks Greg 👍🏻
Also Lewis for Class O with light engine movements like when a train comes into Misselthwaite and has to run round the train a lamp with a red indication would be put over the coupling hook of the now rear facing end of the loco and a white lamp over the leading coupling hook that was next to the train. This indicates to the signalman that this is a light engine movement and not an engine where the train has broken away even though it's pretty obvious. The Southern Region used discs but they denoted the route a train was taking rather than the type of train it was. They only used discs in the daytime for at night they had lighted lamps. With the Modelu lamps this is easy and quick to achieve.
Great heads up on improving the models we have. The lamps is most likely a thing for me that i'll do for the 3 steamies i have, 1 (most expensive model in my collection)has a crew installed. The others wont really apply as SAR steam locos(most of them)has a lockwheel at smoke box door. Im not gonna fiddle mechanically with the flagship model to work on anything mechanical as another model was worked on and it had a mishap jus falling on table, not even floor and cab broke😢. Looking forward to more of your videos and getting my "patient" fixed
Thanks Jacques. Ah sorry to hear that mate - hope you get it sorted 👍🏻
I use west hill wagon works lamps they work great
Great tips. I've been meaning to get lamps for a while. Modelrail Scotland in a couple of weeks, so.....
If you want some different crew figures Dart castings ones are good. I'm no great shakes at figure painting either, but I found them easy to do. Cheers
Thanks Davie - I’ll check out the Dart casting ones
great video Lewis , very informative, some great ideas there matey loved it ,excellent thanks for sharing take care a t b👍 syd
Cheers Syd 👍🏻
Good content mix, do like these explainers. Really helpful. Cheers Lewis
Although I doubt I'll ever take a drill to my smokebox doors... I'd probably glue myself to it 😂
Haha fair enough, I was having second thoughts when the smokebox flew off the 4MT 🤣
@@MouldyRaspberry lol 🤣 yup, bit different for you with those things costing a hefty wad, and there's me nervous about a £30 secondhand lol 🤣
I don't know much about British trains and the light situation always confused me as it as I never saw a logic in it. So thanks for explaining it a bit that it has to do with what sort of train it is.
In mainland Europe it's mostly 2 or 3 lamps in the front and one or 2 red in the back. And front older trains having 2 side by side like a car and when 3 it was in a L or A shape. On like German steamers they where pretty early on fixed lights and no longer loose lanterns.
So having removable lanterns is a strange but interesting thing to see.
And models not having lights as standard would be a no go here.
Yes I’ve heard many British modellers compare what we have to German manufacturers and I think the consensus is the standard and innovation is much higher than what we have.
Really cool.
Thanks 👍🏻
Great video as ever matey
Thanks mate 👍
Great tutorial 👍
Thanks 👍🏻
Nice to know about the lamps headboards of named trains is the same am I right like the Cambrian Coast Express etc
Could you provide a link in the description on where to find the lamps pls
www.modelu3d.co.uk/product-category/detailing-components/loco-rolling-stock-lamps/
Hi Lewis
I really enjoy your videos and love the realism of your layout. However I am curious as to the name on 70007. It should be Coeur-de-Lion?
Thanks 👍🏻 Yes I renamed mine after my Grandfather after he passed away a couple of years ago.
Nice gesture!@@MouldyRaspberry
I use Modelu lamps Mr Mouldy but my fingers are a bit like carrots these days and am forever breaking the little handle on the top. Very good lamps though. 😊
Me too John, it’s easily done 🤣
@@MouldyRaspberry 😂
Aside from crew fgures, nothing here directly applies to North American railways. That does not mean thisvepisode is wasted for us! The point you are making, Lewis, is that small details do make a difference!
Modelers need to examine their equipment with an eye to realism. Well executed, though minor, changes, like stage props for a play, can contribute to the illusion that our layouts are real.
That’s very true Steve, appreciate it. I think American models tend to be higher spec than ours, from what I’ve seen online anyway. Maybe because theres a bigger market and more competition
Always great content, this in particular was super helpful! Thanks Lewis! 😊
I was wondering, what glue do you use to add accessories to the loco beyond the dart? So for example, adding plastic details included in detail packs? 😊
Thanks
Hylt
Thanks! I just use a tiny bit of super glue for everything 👍🏻
@@MouldyRaspberry thanks for replying, that helps 😊
I know, Lewis, my friend! Perhaps you do twelve coaches on a long Express train with some engines pulling them. Like more Great Western Railway Hall Class 4-6-0 Tender Engines, more more British Railway Standard Class 5mt 4-6-0s, some Great Northern Railway J50 0-6-0 Tank Engines, London and North Eastern Railway Gresley A3 Pacific Class 4-6-2 Tender Engines, and South Eastern and Chatham Railway C Class 0-6-0 Tender Engines. Especially raising more to buy them and other stuff.
Al good ideas!!!
@@MouldyRaspberry Correct. Especially with more headcodes, headboards, headlamps, and white disks to put on the bufferbeams and headboards of the engines.
It's interesting how people perceive detail differently. To me buffer beam detail on models always looks underscale, probably because I'm used to seeing real-life locomotives from below.
That’s a good point! Bloody fiddly to put on the loco as well!
How on Earth do you get the paraffin in them? Look great.
Thanks 😀
Good evening Mouldy!
I was wondering if you could possibly help me please.
I would like to get some sort of ideas towards steam locomotives that ran near my village of Hillsborough, County Down, N.Ireland.
I’ve only started out and to date what I’ve found is locomotives with a: 2,2, makeup or 2,2,2, or one that’s baffling me is a 2,2,2,WT?
Is it very hard to change the colour of a locomotive if it’s default is say, Green but maybe I need it in Blue but it can’t be bought in the required colour.
Yours sincerely,
ross
Great video my friend, have you never heard of tweezers?😂😂
Thanks! Haha good suggestion 🤣
Please the true link for the DMR product ? Thanks😊
If you mean the lamps, it’s these:
www.modelu3d.co.uk/product-category/detailing-components/loco-rolling-stock-lamps/
These are the door darts
www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/products/brass-wire-etc/turned-smokebox
cool vid on channel thanks lee
Thanks Lee 👍🏻
How deep are your base boards? Presumably they are 9mm thick ply as well?
2 foot deep, and yeah 9mm ply
Help, I have tried every where to buy 00 gwr model u lamps , cant find any anywhere, can any of you guys help please
If there have none on their website, I’d email them and ask when they’re restocking them
Delicate touch makes a difference....
Absolutely!
Isn't it ironic: prewar Hornby had the lamps, and pamphlets so you could do the correct train codes. A model generation later Hornby Dublo had their nameboards and the coachboards, so you could run your named express.
I say Ironic as they were all frowned upon as being toylike and just playing trains as your 3 coach "merseysider" apparently wasn't good enough for railway modelling, or hanging the correct headlight codes on the smokebox of your brahnam moor wasn't acceptable as it was Hornby 0 and so they fell from favour.
Modellers can be a fickle bunch. Sometimes they take all the fun out of it.
Very true! I guess it’s going full circle now.
How they are still getting valve gear wrong is beyond me when they must browse hundreds of photos and go to measure up the real thing. I rather have that correct than a cab with dials showing all the markings you cannot even see when the model is on the layout.
Yep I completely agree! On the newer stuff like the 2MT, 9F and what I’ve seen of the new black five it seems like they’ve sussed it out finally
@@MouldyRaspberry Yes the 2MT is a lovely model and looks right
Fitting lamps isn't an improvement, that's just a decision left for you to make. Besides, headlamps aren't always on the topmost bracket. The topmost bracket isn't just used for headlamp codes, it's also used for headboards like The Cambrian Coast Express for example. When Dapol Foxcote Manor arrives in my home, she'll have the honor of wearing a Santa Special headboard created and sent to me by Loco Leighton, another TH-cam friend of mine.
I would say it’s an improvement !
Thanks for the wise knowledge Kelly
KellyAshfordCritic