Solo Top-Rope | My Set-up +
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มิ.ย. 2022
- This is my setup for a Top-Rope Solo. There are lots of ways to set this up and all of them are more dangerous than climbing with a buddy.
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Honestly one of the most helpful videos out there simply just because you actually show what your doing
Dont do it
Do the bunny on the anchor
Pulling both devices a bit up with the chest harness will reduce the potential fall load. It will also iprove the control of what's going on with these devices.
Good video. I'm glad to see you are using locking carabiners for your ascension devices.
Thank you for the video. I learned some things.
I use a similar system with the addition of a chest harness to stop me from possibly flipping over.
Love it. Really interested in learning about TRS. 👍👍👍
Also fantastic video. Explaining many helpful things .
I read the petzl guide over and over. But once you said why you had weight on the bottom it all made perfect sense and all came together.
Thanks a lot dude 🤙
Learn the most safe way first. I would recommend bunny on the top
I use two figure 8's on top. One for each bolt basically turns the single rope into two redundant ropes. But bunny ears are super strong too.@@waltergheist
good stuff, first I find on when you can walk to anchor. I guess you could make a double 8 , and use 4 qd
For sure. That would work too.
If you are concerned about redundancies why would you use an ADT for an anchor? You seem knowledgeable enough to build a better anchor. Stay safe out there man.
Why not do 'bunny ears fig 8' for your anchor? Then it'd be redundant.
Good call. I was thinking more about the rappel and the pull of the Rope. Thank you for the comment.
I've watched a lot of rope solo tutorials, most use a single line while this guy uses two lines with one rope which is of course much safer and no reason no to do it if you have enough rope length, also makes the backup device parallel and not in line so feeding is smooth, so how should i fix the rope in the case i want two lines but i don't have two ropes? Do i make bunny ears in the middle of the rope? Is that safe? I guess Y hang is only possible for one line. What is the knot in this video?
This is one on the main problems when solo....you have no one to check your work. Thanks
Thanks i was looking for this kind of set up
Good stuff man. I appreciate seeing how you did that. I am wondering why you rappelled with a grigri the first time and used biners the second time. I’d feel way more secure rappelling with the GriGri again.
No real reason other that to show another way to rappel. Thanks for watching.
@@LiveRogue Fair enough Knowing how to rappel with biners could be very helpful.
It was a double strand rappel. If you tried to put a GriGri on that you'd fall to your death. You'd have to do a biner block and rappel on one strand to use the GriGri otherwise he could have used a tube style device like an ATC to do a double strand rappel instead of the carabiners as shown.
I would argue that TRS is safer than belaying specifically because a second mistake prone human is eliminated. Research indicates that up to 20% of injuries are belay related.
I don't trust anyone on belay.
I lead solo all the time and while it’s a very different setup I would never use my micro Traxion as a fall arrest just because of the teeth. You would have been far safer using your gri gri and the roller. One method I use with my taz lov3 when TRS is after the second bolt I stop and tie an alpine butterfly so should my taz fail from an upside down fall that knot is my last resort. If that fails I fucked up big time and I’m not going to need to worry about what comes next.
On a TR solo falling on a microtrax is pretty safe. When you get near the anchor and don’t have a ton of rope above you to soften the shock load, that’s where the teeth can cause a problem (fall factors and the amount of rope in the system and all that). I only use my micro to reduce rope weight on lead solo, but I trust it on TR solo
What are your thoughts on using a double loop figure of eight knot (bunny-ears) to separate the strands at the top? You could clip the loops directly into the chainlinks. This would avoid the triangular anchor and wouldn't require a carabiner.
100% That would be a good choice. Or I could have built an anchor with other materials.
Bunny makes the 2 ropes secured even if one anchor point brakes
Thank you for the video. In your experience what is the best type of rope for TRS?
Static 10mm is good. Or even dynamic 10mm but if you slip, the rope stretch can put you below where you were climbing. Not a big deal just climb back up. But overall static is better for top rope solo.
🗽For this kind of soloing you should avoid falls! ☝
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Hello, great video.
What is the backup called? Have the micro traxion, can't understand what you called the back up.
Thanks
CT RollnLock
Would you use this method when working a hard route? I would be worried about repeated falls damaging the rope and have seen people use their gri gri instead with either knots or a backup device like the micro traxion.
"Self-belaying with the GRIGRI is prohibited." - Petzl
Is this called clogging?
You built a masterpoint on the anchors and complained about the ADT not being ideal?!? You chose to build it that way! Just bring the middle strand down and incorporate it into the figure 8 master not your binered through. Voila, no ADT, although that's hardly a concern with modern 3/8" bolts.
This is such a complicated system
Man are you sure that your anchor isn't an american death triangle? This type of anchor are reeallly dangerous as the multiply the forces on the bolts instead of dividing.. I would do a bunny ear figure 8, much safer