I would recommend bringing a couple towels with you to cover those sharp rocks that the rope is gonna be laying over especially for when you’re descending and have a constant load on the rope that might cut it.
Thanks. Make sure you dile in your rope and gear management skills with toprope and lead climbing, you don't want there to be any room for error when you do this. Also not every crag is this straight forward, some routes meander around and you need to know what you are doing there to not swing out during a fall. Best I can recommend is for you to climb at least a year with someone else outside before trying toprope solo.
Be careful and do more research. It is highly unlikely but I had a prusic slide during dynamic loading. A safer approach would be a second microtrax or similar.
I love this method, so much so that I use it myself now! I personally use a tibloc with a much thicker prusik cord though. I also have become a firm believer in the klemheist as opposed to the typical prusik, feeds a little better.
Really good setup, I use almost the same (double-strand "Solo Top Roping" with a Micro Traxian and Nano Traxion). That said, the Prusik should ideally be below the GriGri on the break-side of your rope. To set it up like this you'd need more distance between your rappel loop and nano-traxion. For more detail see the 'Swiss method' for rappelling ...
Thanks for making this video. I tried it. Great option. Moves freely. Feels super safe because the Traxion captures all progress. I only have a dynamic rope. Good to know I have extra “suspension” should I slip. When you climb a route with an overhang at the top, make sure you have the ability to switch to descend safely while suspended away from the face. Take several options. You don’t want to drop your only descender. Having a second rope gives you more options and peace of mind as well I find. Cheers.
Glad you like the setup. I started with a dynamic rope as well but switched to static, am very pleased with it. You don't actually "fall" with this setup, if you happen to slip off the wall, the microtrax immediately catches you in place if you use a static rope. We a dynamic rope, because of it being more elastic, you can drop several meters depending on the full length of the rope. When doing 2 pitches in one go, a 60-70m rope will stretch 2-3m, which is more than your height. I also didn't like how the sheath stretches around the teeth of the microtrax. I recommend switching to a static rope and maybe use the dynamic one just as a backup.
@@adrobotics you are 100% right about the dynamic v static rope. If you climb easier stuff, the rope chose seems less important, but yesterday I needed to ascend with a toothed ascender several times due to my skill gap 😂. Will need to get a static rope for sure. Q: Is it possible to have too many ropes or carabiners?
Solid set up man! Everyone is gonna say something you could do better but I really liked the prusik above the micro. I never understood why people run two micros back to back… like if one failed why would you want to shock load a tooth device? 🤙🏼
Tne abrasion risk wirh your rope over the ledge makes me nervous since your rope is fixed and the same small part is exposed to the ledge for the whole climb. I would consider a rope protector at the top, and also look into "refixing" the rope to avoid tension over abrasion risks. Avant climbing has good info. I like the prussik, clever that the nano trax minds it for you, good budget option.
@@geometerfpv2804 Good point. A year ago I tried fixing a rag between the rope and the ledge but it kept moving away. After that I tried tying the knot at the anchor at different spots, to move the contact point of the rope and the ledge by a few cm every time I'd climb there.
Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm a newbie here, but how did you get to the last lot part of the video? I thought the end of the rope was tied as a figure 8 onto the quad anchor. Did you just reach the top and start pulling rope up?
Not the end of the rope. I tied a figure 8 on the rope's mid point and fed one side of the rope through both rappel rings until the figure 8 hit a ring and blocked it. Nothing is actually tied at this point. What I did was put a carabiner into the figure 8 loop and then clipped the same carabiner to the other side of the rope that comes out through the second rappel ring (this carabiner is just for peace of mind). If I now would pull on the left strand of the rope then it won't move because the figure 8 on the other side can't fit through the rappel rings, that is why I could go all the way down on the left strand. When at the bottom, I would tug on the other side, the one with the figure 8 on it which would not be blocked by anything so I could recover the entire rope and gear. Around @4:57. Just as a note, if you use a prusik to rappel you don't need any of that, but just because I climbed up using a GriGri, I wanted to rappel down on it as well (and require less gear in total). Rappelling with a GriGri only works if the rope is fixed and here we simulate a "fixed" rope but just on one side with this trick. Be very careful not to rappel down on the wrong side!
When climbing up, the rope was indeed fixed to a quad anchor. Once I reached the top, I reconfigured everything and removed the quad. Sorry for my previous long response :D I think you might have only been interested in this short answer haha. Because of all the setup that's required, I like to climb the same route multiple times, that is why I use a quad. Only at the end of the last climb do I reconfigure everything so that I can leave the crag from the bottom and recover my rope easily. If in your crag you would leave from the top, then you don't actually need the last part because you can just recover everything from the top and walk away. Depends on your crag.
Highly recommend the Camp Lift in place of the prusik. Is has a toothless camming action so less likely to de-sheath your rope. I use that as a main clipped to my chest harness and a nanotrax as a backup off my seat harness. I usually connect the two harnesses as well with a sling. With that combo you barely have to manually pull rope through.
Camp lift de-sheaths rope the same as a toothed device. De-sheathing is a result of the cam being able to pinch closed on the rope, it's not because of teeth. The only way to prevent de-sheathing is a device that cannot close fully on the rope resulting in slippage under high load. If it doesn't slip, it will de-sheath or cut your rope. Not that the lift is a bad option, but it's not good for the specific reason you might think.
Id recomend changing the prusik to a toothless ascender id recommend the paspov 3 because you can repel on it but there are plenty of more affordable devices, i modified my microtraction so it couldn't lock in the open position, if you want to do that theres just a little pin that must be filed off. I also have seen people modify there gri gri as an alternative to the paslov but i haven't tried that. Overall thought i like your setup
I like the setup. Seems much cleaner than mine really. I've always used a Grigri and micro traxion as a backup but it doesn't seem to flow as easily. Maybe I'll try the micro traxion with a prusick backup.
One thing I had to learn the hard way with the grigri for TR solo is that if the route is steep enough (as in the rope tension is straight up), the rope can actually get super jammed in the metal plate since it is not a straight through device like a nano trax. I had to jumar my way off of it and get it unstuck half way up the wall 😅.
Careful to make sure you're clipping through the rope eyelets in top anchor bc the way you have it if any of the rock anchors fail your biner will slip right out.
big autolocker & GriGri can under certain circumstances get caught up & side load. blissclimbing has a video on this. rubber anti position / anti rotation devices are sold by the same. (but i appreciate that the GG is not part of your TRS Rig) would an alpine butterfly knot be more appropriate than a fig8 for your single strand recoverable abseil rig?
Add a “camp lift clamp” in place of the prussic. You can drop the traxion down to you waiste harness belay loop, then add an extension/draw to you belay loop and add camp lift, then add bungee accessory cord (that goes around your chest or neck/back) to camp lift to keep it separated from from micro traxion. Very important to have camp lift above the micro traxion as it works like a prussic, so reversing it could lead to traxion disabling lift and spell disaster. As alway, test/test/test and research, so you know all the ways the system could fail. Otherwise it may and likely will fail when most needed, and that will spell the end of your climbing.
Your back up carabiner is flopping about and there's a chance it could crossload if your microtrax fails. a microtrax can fail easily if the pulley botton gets activated. Secure your prussik carabiner in a properly oriented way to catch a shock load
It is a good set up for sure. I use almost same. It is too much with all the tach focus. A prusik works 100 %. It has been used for about 100 years in all kind of climbing. Keep it up, and enjoy.
Not much for recommendations but just a couple of ideas that may be of use for this kind of application. I would use a less stretchy rope for this (I just read that you already did the switch to a static). The main anchor looks super strong and safe but it could use a secondary piece further down just to mitigate the abrasion on the ledge there. And lastly, I would rig a retrievable system like they do in canyoning. Lock it with a carabiner or two and when it's time to clean up and leave you just unlock the system, rappel and retrieve rope. This way you don't need to strip everything down and rebuild the entire system, reducing the chances of errors. Have fun and see you on the crag!
Good question. If you've rappelled with an ATC before, it would make sense to tie the prusik below the ATC in case your hand come off the rope. I haven't seen people do that with a GriGri since it is "good enough" on its own. I tied the prusik on top as a failsafe in case my GriGri detached from my harness, then the prusik would be my second connection to the rope. I wasn't comfortable enough rappelling down just on the GriGri back then and tried to back it up with anything I had on me. Nowadays I rap down just on the GriGri alone and feed the bottom end of the rope through a carabiner attached to my harness, this adds enough friction for the GriGri to engage under almost any circumstance. But of course never let go of the bottom end of the rope.
It would probably be wise to use a rope protector. It looked like your rope was going over an edge although I couldn't judge how sharp it was. Anyways It would make me feel much safer, especially when using a single rope
Good idea. I experimented with a tshirt some time ago, but couldn't get it to stay where I wanted it to. Still a good idea I want to find a solution for. Thanks :D
After rappelling this one time I checked my rope and there were only a few strands left holding it together. It was rubbing back and forth on a sharp piece of rock, I almost died and didn’t even know it. I always put a towel or blanket down now for protection now.
Mount MacDonald? Anchors are far back. Wouldn't be a bad idea to have a ridirect after the first bolt from the anchor- could be another figure 8 on bite. Otherwise ur gonna have a single strand running over the edge when u fall.
@@anviksiki108 Technically yes, but in practice the rope doesn't feed very well through it. You would need a lot of weight on the end of the rope to make it work. The Jumar is more bulky and will prevent you from getting your chest close to the wall. All you really need is the mechanism at the end, the handle is just extra and in the way.
Your initial rappel set up looks pretty annoying so I would switch that up. Also you should think about edge protection if only using a single strand. If the pitch is short enough I personally make tie both ends using an eight or EBSB to a locker on one bolt and then an alpine butterfly to make a y to the other bolt. Then my rope makes a sort of big U shape and I have one device on each rope. If the alpine butterfly on each is slightly different then the rope path is different. I don’t tie to the middle of the rope in case it rubs so I can just chop the damaged part off. You could instead extend your anchor past the edge with static materials or make a little rebely off a lower bolt. Rope rubbing is a big concern for top rope solo
Lot's of people are afraid of progress capture devices like this one from shredding their ropes. But when they engage, they fully stop the decent, meaning that those metal teeth don't drag across the rope, they immediately dig in deep, so from as far as I can tell the rope isn't damaged at all.
Also, previous poster is correct. You can not trust a prussic for this application. If prussic was on dead end of rope and mainly there as a breaking hand, that could potentially be counted on (if properly spaced from belay device and there were was ZERO potential for topside interference). But to count on a prussic to be your second main breaking device is dangerous. Especially at the speed of fall at which it would be expected to kick in due to failure of main piece. Do NOT count on it working in that position. Get a camp lift or other reliable device.
I started with dynamic but switched to static. It used to be too difficult to start a climb considering how much my old dynamic rope stretched. Works much better with static.
I wouldn't do that. Neither the Grigri nor the Prusik will catch you 100% for sure in this setup. The Grigri has failure modes like the weight of the rope below you not being big enough to engage it, and the Prusik can fail to catch if at any time it became too loose. All of these are things you would need to focus on every second move you make, which will distract you from climbing. Best to use at least one device (like the nano-trax) that will catch you no matter what and have a backup in case of some sort of malfunction of the first.
I don't think that I would trust that prussik to do much after tending itself up the rope and possibly getting loose. I'm sure it's fine once it's weighted but probably not the best method for ascending.
You obviously have no clue what you are writing about. Please try to learn something, try it out, experience it, and grow your knowledge. The knots are safer than anything if you know what you are doing, either klemheist or the french or the classic.
Oh, you don't believe me? Maybe you should ask the very well-established, decades old community of rope soloists what they think of using a friction hitch as your backup device while rock climbing. I promise you, there are much better devices to use for this... especially on a taught rope. A friction knot is commonly used for tree work when you are actually climbing the rope, and is very far from ideal when climbing the rock with both hands free and in awkward, unpredictable positions. Before you bother commenting here again, go do some googling in actual rock climbing forums and let me know what you find. Just FYI, the best setup that I've ever used which puts this one to shame, is a TAZ Lov3 on one strand, with a camp goblin or other ascender on the other strand. That's a Ferreri, this is a Ford Taurus running on 5 out of 6 cylinders.
cool video, but you should remove or at least shorten the yellow cordelette use for not loosing the micro, it could get caught easily between the micro and the rope (and it would no catch anymore).
Don't get your panties in a knot 😅 They are just meant to keep the micro-tracks upright so that the rope feeds through it smoothly. There is no intention of it holding any significant weight.
@@tannersmith448 That's the thing. The chest harness is only there to keep the microtracks upright. I've seen others just use a carabiner and accessory cord, but that is too static and makes you hunch down all the time. If you use a few stretchy hair ties between the chest harness and the microtracks, then it can extend a bit so your back isn't arched the entire route. You can see between @2:48 and @3:00 how much the hair ties stretch when I'm down on the ground vs on the wall. The microtracks is hooked up directly into my climbing harness' belay loop. Everything else is just for convenience.
At the top, I wouldn't put the ropes through both rings like that, that's called "American Death Triangle". In this exact scenario and for a rapelling it's not a big issue but I would still avoid it. You should probably use just one of the bolts (after inspecting it) for the rappel or if you're not sure you could build an anchor but that would involve leaving some gear up there
I love this idea of using pursuk as a back up also how u backed up the gri gri awesome
Well I for one thi k you have done a great job of making your own system that works for you, good job, Gary in Scotland
I would recommend bringing a couple towels with you to cover those sharp rocks that the rope is gonna be laying over especially for when you’re descending and have a constant load on the rope that might cut it.
Or get a rope wrap
lay flat tubing is very cost effective as a rope protector. plus; its very tough + flexible.
This is advanced! I'm a new top rope and lead climber after bouldering for a year. Amazing techniques I was engaged through the whole video :)
Thanks. Make sure you dile in your rope and gear management skills with toprope and lead climbing, you don't want there to be any room for error when you do this. Also not every crag is this straight forward, some routes meander around and you need to know what you are doing there to not swing out during a fall. Best I can recommend is for you to climb at least a year with someone else outside before trying toprope solo.
Be careful and do more research. It is highly unlikely but I had a prusic slide during dynamic loading. A safer approach would be a second microtrax or similar.
I love this method, so much so that I use it myself now! I personally use a tibloc with a much thicker prusik cord though. I also have become a firm believer in the klemheist as opposed to the typical prusik, feeds a little better.
I might try those knots out in the spring, haven't heard of them before. Thanks.
Nice simple setup, enough to get me started.
Really good setup, I use almost the same (double-strand "Solo Top Roping" with a Micro Traxian and Nano Traxion). That said, the Prusik should ideally be below the GriGri on the break-side of your rope. To set it up like this you'd need more distance between your rappel loop and nano-traxion. For more detail see the 'Swiss method' for rappelling ...
Thank you. I'll check it out.
It works with the grigri though, but yes if it were an atc or anything else the third hand is on the break hand
Thanks for making this video. I tried it. Great option. Moves freely. Feels super safe because the Traxion captures all progress. I only have a dynamic rope. Good to know I have extra “suspension” should I slip. When you climb a route with an overhang at the top, make sure you have the ability to switch to descend safely while suspended away from the face. Take several options. You don’t want to drop your only descender. Having a second rope gives you more options and peace of mind as well I find. Cheers.
Glad you like the setup. I started with a dynamic rope as well but switched to static, am very pleased with it. You don't actually "fall" with this setup, if you happen to slip off the wall, the microtrax immediately catches you in place if you use a static rope. We a dynamic rope, because of it being more elastic, you can drop several meters depending on the full length of the rope. When doing 2 pitches in one go, a 60-70m rope will stretch 2-3m, which is more than your height. I also didn't like how the sheath stretches around the teeth of the microtrax. I recommend switching to a static rope and maybe use the dynamic one just as a backup.
@@adrobotics you are 100% right about the dynamic v static rope. If you climb easier stuff, the rope chose seems less important, but yesterday I needed to ascend with a toothed ascender several times due to my skill gap 😂. Will need to get a static rope for sure. Q: Is it possible to have too many ropes or carabiners?
@@martinm931 Haha, you can get as many as you can carry 😂.
Great video. Very useful
Solid set up man! Everyone is gonna say something you could do better but I really liked the prusik above the micro. I never understood why people run two micros back to back… like if one failed why would you want to shock load a tooth device? 🤙🏼
Really liked the video. Nice job.
Tne abrasion risk wirh your rope over the ledge makes me nervous since your rope is fixed and the same small part is exposed to the ledge for the whole climb. I would consider a rope protector at the top, and also look into "refixing" the rope to avoid tension over abrasion risks. Avant climbing has good info.
I like the prussik, clever that the nano trax minds it for you, good budget option.
@@geometerfpv2804 Good point. A year ago I tried fixing a rag between the rope and the ledge but it kept moving away. After that I tried tying the knot at the anchor at different spots, to move the contact point of the rope and the ledge by a few cm every time I'd climb there.
Get some nuts and refix your rope lower down where the won’t be abrasion
Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm a newbie here, but how did you get to the last lot part of the video? I thought the end of the rope was tied as a figure 8 onto the quad anchor. Did you just reach the top and start pulling rope up?
Not the end of the rope. I tied a figure 8 on the rope's mid point and fed one side of the rope through both rappel rings until the figure 8 hit a ring and blocked it. Nothing is actually tied at this point. What I did was put a carabiner into the figure 8 loop and then clipped the same carabiner to the other side of the rope that comes out through the second rappel ring (this carabiner is just for peace of mind). If I now would pull on the left strand of the rope then it won't move because the figure 8 on the other side can't fit through the rappel rings, that is why I could go all the way down on the left strand. When at the bottom, I would tug on the other side, the one with the figure 8 on it which would not be blocked by anything so I could recover the entire rope and gear. Around @4:57. Just as a note, if you use a prusik to rappel you don't need any of that, but just because I climbed up using a GriGri, I wanted to rappel down on it as well (and require less gear in total). Rappelling with a GriGri only works if the rope is fixed and here we simulate a "fixed" rope but just on one side with this trick. Be very careful not to rappel down on the wrong side!
When climbing up, the rope was indeed fixed to a quad anchor. Once I reached the top, I reconfigured everything and removed the quad. Sorry for my previous long response :D I think you might have only been interested in this short answer haha. Because of all the setup that's required, I like to climb the same route multiple times, that is why I use a quad. Only at the end of the last climb do I reconfigure everything so that I can leave the crag from the bottom and recover my rope easily. If in your crag you would leave from the top, then you don't actually need the last part because you can just recover everything from the top and walk away. Depends on your crag.
No no, all good haha. Trying to learn as much as I can here. Thanks for taking the time to write all that out!
Highly recommend the Camp Lift in place of the prusik. Is has a toothless camming action so less likely to de-sheath your rope. I use that as a main clipped to my chest harness and a nanotrax as a backup off my seat harness. I usually connect the two harnesses as well with a sling. With that combo you barely have to manually pull rope through.
Camp lift de-sheaths rope the same as a toothed device. De-sheathing is a result of the cam being able to pinch closed on the rope, it's not because of teeth. The only way to prevent de-sheathing is a device that cannot close fully on the rope resulting in slippage under high load. If it doesn't slip, it will de-sheath or cut your rope.
Not that the lift is a bad option, but it's not good for the specific reason you might think.
Yeah, the "teeth desheath more" thing is a myth, all these devices desheath at 4-5kn. Might as well use the toothed ones since they feed the best.
Id recomend changing the prusik to a toothless ascender id recommend the paspov 3 because you can repel on it but there are plenty of more affordable devices, i modified my microtraction so it couldn't lock in the open position, if you want to do that theres just a little pin that must be filed off. I also have seen people modify there gri gri as an alternative to the paslov but i haven't tried that. Overall thought i like your setup
I like the setup. Seems much cleaner than mine really. I've always used a Grigri and micro traxion as a backup but it doesn't seem to flow as easily. Maybe I'll try the micro traxion with a prusick backup.
One thing I had to learn the hard way with the grigri for TR solo is that if the route is steep enough (as in the rope tension is straight up), the rope can actually get super jammed in the metal plate since it is not a straight through device like a nano trax. I had to jumar my way off of it and get it unstuck half way up the wall 😅.
Careful to make sure you're clipping through the rope eyelets in top anchor bc the way you have it if any of the rock anchors fail your biner will slip right out.
nah he only clipped 3 strands of his quad so he’s good. you can see the 4th poking out
big autolocker & GriGri can under certain circumstances get caught up & side load. blissclimbing has a video on this. rubber anti position / anti rotation devices are sold by the same. (but i appreciate that the GG is not part of your TRS Rig)
would an alpine butterfly knot be more appropriate than a fig8 for your single strand recoverable abseil rig?
Add a “camp lift clamp” in place of the prussic. You can drop the traxion down to you waiste harness belay loop, then add an extension/draw to you belay loop and add camp lift, then add bungee accessory cord (that goes around your chest or neck/back) to camp lift to keep it separated from from micro traxion.
Very important to have camp lift above the micro traxion as it works like a prussic, so reversing it could lead to traxion disabling lift and spell disaster.
As alway, test/test/test and research, so you know all the ways the system could fail. Otherwise it may and likely will fail when most needed, and that will spell the end of your climbing.
Your back up carabiner is flopping about and there's a chance it could crossload if your microtrax fails. a microtrax can fail easily if the pulley botton gets activated. Secure your prussik carabiner in a properly oriented way to catch a shock load
It is a good set up for sure. I use almost same. It is too much with all the tach focus. A prusik works 100 %. It has been used for about 100 years in all kind of climbing. Keep it up, and enjoy.
A prusik can fail/slide if the wraps/width of rope isn't well adjusted. So you can't claim it works 100%. Let's be accurate, please.
As others have stated, it’s simple and clean but personally I’d feel far more comfortable using two Microtrax….oh wait, I do!
I like this setup
Not much for recommendations but just a couple of ideas that may be of use for this kind of application.
I would use a less stretchy rope for this (I just read that you already did the switch to a static).
The main anchor looks super strong and safe but it could use a secondary piece further down just to mitigate the abrasion on the ledge there.
And lastly, I would rig a retrievable system like they do in canyoning. Lock it with a carabiner or two and when it's time to clean up and leave you just unlock the system, rappel and retrieve rope. This way you don't need to strip everything down and rebuild the entire system, reducing the chances of errors.
Have fun and see you on the crag!
how long is that prusik cord?
The loop is about 80cm, but you need to add some extra length for the knot which I can't measure without opening it up.
Shouldn't the friction hitch be below the rappel device?
Good question. If you've rappelled with an ATC before, it would make sense to tie the prusik below the ATC in case your hand come off the rope. I haven't seen people do that with a GriGri since it is "good enough" on its own. I tied the prusik on top as a failsafe in case my GriGri detached from my harness, then the prusik would be my second connection to the rope. I wasn't comfortable enough rappelling down just on the GriGri back then and tried to back it up with anything I had on me. Nowadays I rap down just on the GriGri alone and feed the bottom end of the rope through a carabiner attached to my harness, this adds enough friction for the GriGri to engage under almost any circumstance. But of course never let go of the bottom end of the rope.
It would probably be wise to use a rope protector. It looked like your rope was going over an edge although I couldn't judge how sharp it was. Anyways It would make me feel much safer, especially when using a single rope
Good idea. I experimented with a tshirt some time ago, but couldn't get it to stay where I wanted it to. Still a good idea I want to find a solution for. Thanks :D
@@adrobotics Perhaps a chunk of hose that could slip over the rope with a klemheist attached to it to hold it in place - just spit balling here.
After rappelling this one time I checked my rope and there were only a few strands left holding it together. It was rubbing back and forth on a sharp piece of rock, I almost died and didn’t even know it. I always put a towel or blanket down now for protection now.
@@adroboticsmaybe you can keep it in place by using a friend or something like that
Nice setup!
Doesn't this route need a little directional to avoid rubbing the rope over the edge?
@@die_hertz No, the route is pretty straight, it might just look a bit off because of how I recorded it.
@@adrobotics fair enough, action cams make rock look weird
Mount MacDonald? Anchors are far back. Wouldn't be a bad idea to have a ridirect after the first bolt from the anchor- could be another figure 8 on bite. Otherwise ur gonna have a single strand running over the edge when u fall.
@@GRAMANATOR1 Good advice, will try it out next time I go there
Very nice setup: I'm scared about prusik also :/
Is it possible to use a Jumar in the place of micro traction, along with the prusik?
@@anviksiki108 Technically yes, but in practice the rope doesn't feed very well through it. You would need a lot of weight on the end of the rope to make it work. The Jumar is more bulky and will prevent you from getting your chest close to the wall. All you really need is the mechanism at the end, the handle is just extra and in the way.
@@adrobotics Thanks for the prompt reply. I will give it a try. Don't have a micro traction. That's why I was asking.
No redundancy in the anchor?
Right , if any of those anchors fail his biners will slide right out. He should clip through the eyes of the ropes so the biners can't just slide out.
Nice location
Your initial rappel set up looks pretty annoying so I would switch that up. Also you should think about edge protection if only using a single strand. If the pitch is short enough I personally make tie both ends using an eight or EBSB to a locker on one bolt and then an alpine butterfly to make a y to the other bolt. Then my rope makes a sort of big U shape and I have one device on each rope. If the alpine butterfly on each is slightly different then the rope path is different. I don’t tie to the middle of the rope in case it rubs so I can just chop the damaged part off. You could instead extend your anchor past the edge with static materials or make a little rebely off a lower bolt. Rope rubbing is a big concern for top rope solo
I wonder if the rope got cut/shredded somehow by the mini-traction if your prussic would engage fast enough or just slide off the end of the rope?
Lot's of people are afraid of progress capture devices like this one from shredding their ropes. But when they engage, they fully stop the decent, meaning that those metal teeth don't drag across the rope, they immediately dig in deep, so from as far as I can tell the rope isn't damaged at all.
@@adrobotics it wont be seeing any damage if the forces are below 4 kn after that there is a severe risk of sheath damage
@@felixbub7922 yes - MT good for TRS (Top Rope Solo) only w/ not much distance/force...not good for lead soloing
Simple, clean, redundant.
Also, previous poster is correct. You can not trust a prussic for this application.
If prussic was on dead end of rope and mainly there as a breaking hand, that could potentially be counted on (if properly spaced from belay device and there were was ZERO potential for topside interference).
But to count on a prussic to be your second main breaking device is dangerous. Especially at the speed of fall at which it would be expected to kick in due to failure of main piece. Do NOT count on it working in that position. Get a camp lift or other reliable device.
Is it safe to tie rope to a tree at the cliff top?
is your rope a dynamic climbing rope or a static rope?
I started with dynamic but switched to static. It used to be too difficult to start a climb considering how much my old dynamic rope stretched. Works much better with static.
Is it possible to use the same setup, but use only grigri and prusik for climbing up, just pull in the slack in rope by hand while climbing ?
I wouldn't do that. Neither the Grigri nor the Prusik will catch you 100% for sure in this setup. The Grigri has failure modes like the weight of the rope below you not being big enough to engage it, and the Prusik can fail to catch if at any time it became too loose. All of these are things you would need to focus on every second move you make, which will distract you from climbing. Best to use at least one device (like the nano-trax) that will catch you no matter what and have a backup in case of some sort of malfunction of the first.
I don't think that I would trust that prussik to do much after tending itself up the rope and possibly getting loose. I'm sure it's fine once it's weighted but probably not the best method for ascending.
You obviously have no clue what you are writing about. Please try to learn something, try it out, experience it, and grow your knowledge. The knots are safer than anything if you know what you are doing, either klemheist or the french or the classic.
Oh, you don't believe me? Maybe you should ask the very well-established, decades old community of rope soloists what they think of using a friction hitch as your backup device while rock climbing. I promise you, there are much better devices to use for this... especially on a taught rope. A friction knot is commonly used for tree work when you are actually climbing the rope, and is very far from ideal when climbing the rock with both hands free and in awkward, unpredictable positions. Before you bother commenting here again, go do some googling in actual rock climbing forums and let me know what you find.
Just FYI, the best setup that I've ever used which puts this one to shame, is a TAZ Lov3 on one strand, with a camp goblin or other ascender on the other strand. That's a Ferreri, this is a Ford Taurus running on 5 out of 6 cylinders.
@@wileycoyote556 you just proved your ignorance. I've used them for 40 years
@@jansveen dude you're the one talking rubbish xD
Static rope or dynamic rope? I'm assuming static.
I was using a dynamic rope in this video, but I've switched to a static rope since then.
Is it possible to use the same setup, but use only a Shunt and prusik? Is it safe enough?
I haven't used a Shunt before, I wouldn't know.
On the petzl website it says that the shunt is not suitable for self belaying. It will not lock if the user grabs it during a fall.
@@Kingdom0324 ok but I'd use a prusik or a machard too
cool video, but you should remove or at least shorten the yellow cordelette use for not loosing the micro, it could get caught easily between the micro and the rope (and it would no catch anymore).
There is no redundancy in that anchor.
Dude is that a hair tie?
Don't get your panties in a knot 😅 They are just meant to keep the micro-tracks upright so that the rope feeds through it smoothly. There is no intention of it holding any significant weight.
@adrobotics i see
So are you clipping your chest harness into your micro trax with anything?
@@tannersmith448 That's the thing. The chest harness is only there to keep the microtracks upright. I've seen others just use a carabiner and accessory cord, but that is too static and makes you hunch down all the time. If you use a few stretchy hair ties between the chest harness and the microtracks, then it can extend a bit so your back isn't arched the entire route. You can see between @2:48 and @3:00 how much the hair ties stretch when I'm down on the ground vs on the wall.
The microtracks is hooked up directly into my climbing harness' belay loop. Everything else is just for convenience.
@adrobotics i see
Thanks for the advice
Your setup seems not only very sound, but very simple. That really makes me like what you've done here
A simpler setup would be to remove the cordelette anchor and attach the rope directly to the bolts with a bunny ears knot and lockers.
At the top, I wouldn't put the ropes through both rings like that, that's called "American Death Triangle". In this exact scenario and for a rapelling it's not a big issue but I would still avoid it. You should probably use just one of the bolts (after inspecting it) for the rappel or if you're not sure you could build an anchor but that would involve leaving some gear up there