For a longer lasting result - Use gloves and eye protection in a well ventilated area. Use a whole tube of clear 100% silicone caulk with 3-5 parts of Naptha in a 5 gallon bucket. Stir until the caulk has dissolved. No heat needed. Take a hat, tarp etc and soak every inch coating evenly. Hang outside and let dry to see if you missed any areas.
A great and safe way to do this If you do it all the time, or need to cover a large area is a - crock pot... And you can simply unplug it and let it cool off, put a lid on it and just store it away with the mixture in it to use again. Works great for sails, tarps and tents.
Your presentation get an A +. A true stand up triple Much appreciated, the attention given at any rate of speed. Thank you! Measure twice, cut once is forever mission acquisition in the bush.
My friend loaned me an oilskin jacket the other day. It was really great against the wind (which is more of a problem where I live than rain) I'm still looking at different methods but it was really helpful to see the whole process start to finish.
If youre looking at oilskin dusters I would highly recommend the outback trading company oilskin duster, I love mine, I will say though that it takes a couple months before the oiliness is no longer an issue but it didn't stain any furniture or anything that I know of
boiled linseed oil mixed with white spirit in equal parts no messing about heating just mix then paint the outside of your hat and leave to dry outside and then your hat is totally waterproof
If you push the crown of the hat down so as to make a bowl of it, you will find it easier to get more even coverage while painting the mix on, just don't let the mix pool in the bottom. Also don't forget that the underside of the brim needs to be coated too (NOT the inside of the crown though). Personally I wouldn't use any scented oil in the mix, as it can become quite cloying after awhile. If you have ever had to put up with someone wearing perfume or cologne inside an enclosed space for several hours you will see what I mean. You can get used to your sweat and the smell of the mix. If you need to have a sent or whatever to repel insects just dab some on the top and bottom of the brim. If your hat gets stinky just wash the inside or carry a supply of ultra thin women's panty liners and put one in front (they are sticky on one side) as a sweat absorber and replace when the old one gets stinky. This works on hard hats and welding helmets as well. You will need at least 2 coatings of mix to start with and occasional reapplications from time to time. Canvas needs more applications to start. It is great if you have a bright sunny(hot) day to spread your canvas out to get nice and warm before applying the mix. It is best to do all your work in Summer, that way you will be all set when the rain (and snow) comes. I hope the information helps.
I was taught 1 million years ago, as a boy scout, an easy way to water proof items is with simple emergency candles. Use them like a big crayon and color all over whatever item you wish you waterproof, and then take the hair dryer to it, and we got similar results. Though, I am not sure about the longevity of the two treatments in comparison? I remember the candle wax held up very well, though?
The emergency candles work well though I think that by adding the linseed oil (added waterproofing protection) it gives the cloths a bit more pliability. In my testing, the oil/wax formula is easier to apply and spread over the fabric. Both waxed cotton and oil skin or tin cloth perform similarly. Thanks for the comment.
It's definitely true, but the downside is that the candlewax "seals" the fabric completely. It ain't breathable anymore. Then you get it cold due to your own sweat that can't evaporate. 👍
hi , i thinkall the advice is really useful for me, but id like toask some more questions. i am organizing a horse back ride thru the mountains in dec. we will bw wearing denim. can we waterproof them like this and not ruin our saddles? you know part of the leg will be resting on the saddle. and also will this wind proof the stuff too? thanks im advance
I agree with all the comments regarding the length fo the video. Good information, but need to have a goal of 3-5 minute length for all you tube videos. Do this and your followers will triple over night. People want something fast and specific to the point. We are a fast paced society. This is really good advice that will help you grow. Thanks for taking the "time" to make the video.
While I appreciate constructive criticism, I am tired of the impatience a few commenters display. Try as I may, I will not satisfy 100% of the people 100% of the time. You are the same guys who will watch a 30+ minute long Wranglerstar video and love it. You sound like you are a TH-cam expert telling me how long videos should be and how many subs I can gain. While TH-cam tells me that optimal time is between 8 and 18 minutes. Most of the most popular channels adhere to this guidelineas well as other insider information tactics that I am sure you don't have. (unless you are a TH-cam Partner Manager. Are you?)
Sorry if I offended you. I gave you a positive comment on your video, but only agreed with the majority of the people who watched and commented on your video. If you are posting on TH-cam for the purpose of wanting people to watch your videos, please don't be so aggressive when someone puts themselves out there and provides you with honest constructive feedback in a non-labeling non aggressive manner. This just shows me that you are not willing to learn and grow, which why people watch this stuff any way. And for the record, I have not idea what a Wranglerstar video is, so I guess I really don't fit into that group. In the future I will keep my comments to myself. No good deed goes unpunished, right? @@CountryLivingExperience
Good job and thank you for all the work and effort you put into this. It IS very informative and useful beyond words. Yes a bit wordy but anyone with a halfwit can see and hear that is or was a new adventure for you and for it being one of the very first ones you did, it was excellent. I look forward to seeing the others you have done now that I found your channel. Keep up all the great work and please by all means keep sharing what you know with the TH-cam world. There are many many of us who can use with a bit more knowledge in the world of self-sufficiency. Thank you again, may God Bless you and your family and stay safe during this nation's current crisis.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news. but wax ring toilet gaskets are no longer made from bees wax. They haven't been for something like 50 years. They are made from vegetable and petroleum waxes, with polyurethane additives. I guess the rings worked for you but they are not bees wax...
This is an old comment but bees wax is extremely expensive. Has a health-oriented and awesome product such as bees wax actually been used ro seal toilets years ago??
After wax mixture is applied an iron wrapped if foil works well to aid in deeper penetration and evens out the finished coating/surface for a uniform look. Foil is only there so you can take it off and still iron other cloths if needed.
Curious to know: if you store part of the production in a bottle or tin with an attached or integrated means to aerosolise the contents, and you double-boiler reliquify the paste, can you simply spray the waterproofing onto the target? Would applying it as an aerosol speed the drying by exposing the turpentine to the air more readily? Would the liquid form have to be above a certain temperature to account for the cooling that accompanies the pressure drop? How about using a paint brush dipped in the liquid form to apply it? And, whether using paste or liquid form, I wonder if it would be advantageous to heat the target (e.g. canvas) in a dryer, or in makeshift sun-powered hothouse, before applying the waterproofing.
Just wanted to thank you for putting up the video. Spent Christmas period waxing 3 field jackets, a pair of underalls and a pair of coveralls. And my Fly Fishing hat. I eyeballed the BLO and really like the results. Came in very handy at the Liberty Bowl in Memphis where it did nothing but rain. And I fast forwarded so no complaints :)
Some ingredients for waterproofing are flammable. In this case two of them. Have you ever tested a sacrificial waterproofed item that came in contact with a high heat source?
@CountryLivingExperience thanks for the cheaper recipe! You mentioned woodworking...if I used this on outside wood...how long does it stay waterproof? Since you used heat to apply...will the product melt in the hot sun or dryer? If I applied it to an umbrella (say the patio umbrella for example) will it crack off when opened/closed? Does fabric retain it's flexibility?
Great detail. Homemade is best. So as soon as the shtf use these great recipes from this backyard junkyard dog mad scientist will save your life. You never get wet. Great job!!!
Thank you for showing the application on a hat. I'm using Sno-Seal and my ultimate goal is a canvas duffle shaped bag (not flat). I think I'll do a baseball cap first!!
Awesome tutorial,I have been wanting to know how to do this for a long time. You made it very understandable and I felt like I was just hanging out in your garage learning how to make old school waterproofing. Thank you for the knowledge, very much appreciated.
Just reading comments Theres always one who can do it better! 😂 I enjoyed this and will do it on a canvas to stop the north wind blowing me about my garden! ♥️🏴England
Both those economically priced ingredients cost a fortune in Britain. Cheapest wax rings are about $40 here because they're an American thing and have to be imported. Boiled linseed oil isn't exactly cheap here either. For the price of a cup of your formula we'd be paying more than you would be for a gallon of that stuff you mentioned that costs a lot for a little bottle.
Does the hat remain tacky to touch since using toilet bowl sealant wax? That wax is designed to stay tacky and never fully harden, therefore, does it remain that way on the fabric as well? Do you always feel like film is coming off on your hands when you handle the hat?
At the ratio of ingredients, the boiled linseed oil prevents the wax from being tacky. It does not feel as though it is coming off. Let it dry and cure sufficiently and it will be great. Thanks for your comment.
I know this video was from 5 years ago, not sure if you still look at the comments. I am wondering how this would hold up in the wash? I need to make something for my dog for her accidents and may have to wash some what frequently. Any suggestion or tweaks you can suggest to accommodate that? Btw, I loved your video and did not think it was dragged out. For someone like me, I am very detailed orientated so this was fabulous 😊
Glad the video was helpful and thank you for the kind words. I haven't really washed any of these types of items before. I would assume they would not hold up. I do think if you just sprayed it off with a high pressure hose, it would take care of the "accident".
My beeswax is not stinky and it is a very Light color. I use it for encaustic painting. The one you are using is very dark. I’m just curious if it is just beeswax or does it have anything else in it? Also mine is hard if it is not melted and yours looks soft so I am just wondering what is in it to make it so soft? I am looking for something to waterproof my painting apron so that my watercolors will not sink into the fabric and I can keep the apron clean. thankyou 😊
I tried a similar recipe using mineral spirits & boiled linseed oil on some canvas and it stank for months. It was quite a powerful stench. You could smell it across my backyard a couple months afterwards. Never doing that again.
Hi I love your video. I have two questions? The first one is 'would this work on a US Army Canvas pup tent, how much treatment would I need for 9' long x 6' wide x 42" high? The second question is does the wax you are using mind the suns heat on it. Because where I'm living it gets hot like 96.8 °Fahrenheit. And would this have a bad effect on the canvass treatment?
Thank you. It would work for a canvas tent. I have no idea how much you will need. The linseed oil will help stabilize the wax but I have never spent prolonged time in temps that hot.
Hi there! I am a school teacher, and I have always wanted to teach my students a traditional waterproofing method. Your video is perfect. However, in colonial times, people did not have hairdryers. Will the wax and linseed oil soak in just as well. If I do this project I’m a very hot summer day? Thanks again.
You're welcome. Without the hairdryer, it may be a bit more uneven but will dry nonetheless. I think your other question got cut off. I do not understand what you are asking.
I happen to have a sun bleached boonie that’d be perfect. I usually quip that being a greasy Irishman, I can waterproof my own hats simply by wearing them, but this looks a little more effective. I need a new boonie for hot and dry days anyway.
It is too thick to spray on. Additionally, the wax starts to set and harden not long after it is taken off the heat. The paint brush is the best method of application that I found.
didnt read all comments, but old trick was to melt fat, usually beef fat & brush it on, old school butchers still use this to coat shoes & boots when factory protective finish wears off, as they clean dept. every night & this will keep feet dry, never tried on anything else, but I can assure you been using it for decades on my footwear. lol.
Hmm nice idea but what use is all that sealer when you have breathing holes in your hat ?? Or did you do this on purpose as an example ? Which you should of pointed out in the video . (Y)
Just a FYI for canvas I wouldn't use this. It's very flammable even when dry not good for work clothes or tents. There is an easier way for canvas. Mix Coleman fuel aka white gasoline and 100% clear silicone caulk/sealant. Put sealant in old jar and Coleman fuel shake and stir until dissolved in fuel. Add more fuel as needed.. Once dissolved run thru paint strainer/filter. Brush on canvas and let dry. Do all this outside and away from flames and blow dryers. Once canvas drys (5-30 min depends on temp) your left with flame retarded canvas. The fuel smell goes away it's not like reg gasoline. I use on my tents for 30yrs now.
Totally misleading statement, its only flammable during application and drying period which is only few minutes during warm weather application. Once dry it is actually fire resistant. Coleman fuel evaporates and leaves dry silicone infused with canvas. Original recipe is flammable all the time vs Coleman fuel recipe only for a few minutes while drying.
@@MrFlyTWA I've worn waxed clothing for years. It's never caught fire, and it's unlikely ever to do so. Any temperature that sets the cured wax on fire is going to burn you anyway. Cotton is already flammable, whilst nylon, polyester and plastic coatings are both flammable and extremely nasty when they melt in to your skin. Remember that next time you wear a modern waterproof near a fire.
@@another3997 I was a lineman for years and would never anything but cotton or wool. Wearing wax covered canvas and sleep in a tent with a wood stove are two different things compared to wearing a jacket. Sure you can get away with it, but I just tend to play it safe. I sleep better at night.
My personal experience with naphtha gave me an allergic reaction to overnight exposure to breathing the fumes from a large block of the substance in a small bedroom. I ended up with my eyes swollen swollen shut, and a somewhat swollen respiratory system. I required antihistamine medication by injection to counteract these effects. I’ve been diligent in avoiding any extended Contact or exposure since then!!!
You should always use a well ventilated area when using chemicals like this. Some people are allergic to different things. Be sure to always check labels and use ad directed.
Nice video Thanks for the work and effort, I'm not sold on the idea of the toilet ring though, most are not beeswax at all and are made from petroleum based products. It'll still work as described for a inexpensive waterproofing.
This recipe is great for wooden handles or metal tools but I would use mineral oil instead of Boiled Linseed oil for something that will be against your skin.
I have never had a problem with this formula being against my skin. Nor have I heard of anyone else having any issues. The boiled linseed (in pure form) that is applied directly to wood handles such as axes are also in direct contact with your skin.
@@mdamon7031 That may work well. Kneats foot is good stuff. I am not sure it would cure the same when mixed with the wax though. Give it a shot and make a vid.....I would watch that.
Have you considered the increased flammability of the hat or other clothes items? How about a burn test of coated material and uncoated material? Or at least a warning about flammability?
I have never used one item (hat or tent) continuously in harsh conditions. There are a lot of factors that would go in to determining how long it would last.
I enjoyed the video and thought you were ok with your presentation, not too long. But wondered about wearing that hat with that stuff on it. The hat would not breathe so you might get a wet head from perspiration, it might be more flammable with the linseed oil all in the material, and I wonder if you might get sorta a sticky head wearing it for a while as the linseed oil might come out some. Just my thoughts, not trying to belittle your video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. You are correct. It does not breathe like modern fabrics but this is the way they used to do it in the past. It is fairly inexpensive and a good option in a pinch.
Does anybody know about the difference between beeswax and wax rings? Im trying to stay away from petroleum and dangerous benzene which Im thinking wax rings contain.
great video I need to water proof some sumbrella canopy fabric that is being used for a collapsable tent fabric. How stiff does this oil/wax mixture make the fabric???
Whether you think he's smart or not for doing this whole process, you definitely have to respect the fact that he was smart enough not to use the wife's Pyrex
I have done this water proofing befor a lot of years ago, but can't remember if both sides of the fabric needed to be done or was it just the outer surface and let it soak thrue when heated with either a hair dryer or heat gun. I have a heat gun and have a few things that need to be water proofed ( old canvases military back pack, haver sacks, boonies hats, and boots hunting/hicking boots ). And realy would like to know. Also both what was the oil that you put in to help ease the smell and how long does it last?
One side was sufficient for us with the hat. I put peppermint oil to help ease that smell but it wore off before the wax smell. The wax smell then wore off not long after that.
That was a nice bonny, wish I still had mine. Now I want to see you wearing that hat for a day in the rain. You'll be taking it off hoping for the rain to cool your sweaty head.
If you're going to waterproof several stuff and you have a big enough container, you could soak the item in the waterproofing. That's what an Australian folding expedition trailer company does with their canvas.
Quick question. Do you have to worry about spontaneous combustion on the fabrics using linseed oil? Especially if you're storing the item in the closet.?
No chance. Beyond never hearing of that happening and it not happening to me, I do not think they would sell a product that would be that unstable. You should not worry.
Country Living Experience awesome! I just know that on boiled Linseed oil they always recommend properly disposing of the rags that are used. Thanks for putting up the information about how to make this product. I've been trying to find something and this looks like it might just be the right thing to fit the bill for my canvas. Just subscribed. Great channel.
It will stiffen a bit but will work in quickly as soon as you start wearing it. I have never found it to be uncomfortably stiff. As for darkening, it will deepen the color of whatever you put it on but the will fade over time and is not permanent. I thing the color change is minor and a positive. Best luck.
I believe that is how the typical "Duster" or "Drover" overcoats (oil coats) are treated. Cotton duck canvas "oiled" for water resistance. They were originally made from old ships sails. Pitch and various other oils were used along with wax to waterproof the coats. You can also purchase a can of the modern mixture from companies that sell Outback style dusters. Heat it up, and paint it on. Heat with a hair dryer as shown here. Comes in a can that looks like a saddle soap can. You can purchase it from Amazon too. www.amazon.com/Outback-Trading-Oilskin-Duckback-Dressing/dp/B002SEFJRK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541008938&sr=8-1&keywords=oilskin+reproofing
...I think he may be referring to the fact that animals are going to smell the honey in the beeswax and either be repelled (bad if you're a hunter trying to sneak up on a deer, etc) or attracted (bad if it's a bear or more bees hungry for the honey). Either that, or he just doesn't like the smell. Not everyone does.
Here folks, is a male who is going to be sleeping in the dog house when his wife finds out he took a pyrex glass measuring jar away from the kitchen and into his garage, oh wait! He just lost his mind and also took her hair dryer to the garage as well! (Typed in my best Steve irwin voice) Nice video and thank you for posting it!
I was going to type something similar, except stating that all the wife points he saved by not using her Pyrex were immediately erased by touching her hair dryer with toilet wax covered hands. When my father in law recently gifted me his heat gun, the relief I felt was palpable knowing I’d never again use my wife’s hair dryer for projects.
Star Brite waterproofing spray $15 will do 50 hats. The wax and oil method works it's used on wood as a natural sealant. However it does not breathe or wick moisture which is not really something I want on a hat. Otherwise this would be a good method for leather saddlebags, a old canvas tent, or a front porch swing.
Beeswax, paraffin and boiled linseed oil are flammable in certain states. I have never had a problem being next to a campfire and this catching fire. Unless you jump in the fire, you are going to be ok. Any fire is dangerous to any clothing material.
linseed oil even boild linseed oil are suitable for paints incl. all negative properties like hardening any brush used, able to self-inflame cloths you used. Linseed oil is not suitable for leather as due to polymerisation of the linseed oil in the leather the leather fibres will break earlier under stress. Any plant oil will soften dry leather due to fact that any plant oil (and animal oil/grease) incl. glycerin, which is attracting humitity. Simple recipe is using rapeseed oil instead of linseed oil for leather if the recipe incl. components, which you would like to solute. But at leather you can also mix Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly) with Beeswax. Vaseline as component is offering a functionality for cleaning leather, get other components incl. grease, wax and oil solute and protecting waterproofing wax from washing out. Interesting is that Holmenkol is using just waxes for material care and waterproofing at Holmenkol Natural Active Wax.
It should work on nylon......But. My recommendation is to try it on a test piece first. The formulation of the nylon and the wax/oil treatment will determine if they react. Linseed oil will dissolve many plastics.
Country Living Experience: I do have a question i walk on the corn fields every day when the corn season starts there is where the real waterproof gear its tested do you think this would work on frogs waterprof jacket and pants?? I been trying many diferent waterproof clothes and after 15 minutes in to the field i am all wet
I don't think this will work well on Frog Togs. I have some of those and they are pretty solid rain gear to begin with. Additionally this waterproofing does not breathe. If you are working in the hot summer sun, you are going to sweat out more water than you get on you from the corn field.
For a longer lasting result - Use gloves and eye protection in a well ventilated area. Use a whole tube of clear 100% silicone caulk with 3-5 parts of Naptha in a 5 gallon bucket. Stir until the caulk has dissolved. No heat needed. Take a hat, tarp etc and soak every inch coating evenly. Hang outside and let dry to see if you missed any areas.
👍👍👍👍👍
Does this create any textural issues? I’m thinking about doing it to a jacket.
@@chrisz.9974 the silicone gives it the finish of tarp kinda
yeah thats a way better water proofing method, but this seems way cheaper
How long does this last?
A great and safe way to do this If you do it all the time, or need to cover a large area is a - crock pot... And you can simply unplug it and let it cool off, put a lid on it and just store it away with the mixture in it to use again. Works great for sails, tarps and tents.
Good idea. Thanks. I never thought of the crock pot. If you are doing sails, you will surely need a lot.
Your presentation get an A +. A true stand up triple Much appreciated, the attention given at any rate of speed. Thank you! Measure twice, cut once is forever mission acquisition in the bush.
Thank you sir. I appreciate it.
Wax rings! Great source and nothing wrong with the pace and length of this FREE tutorial! People whine instead of just fast forwarding-thanks again
You’re welcome. Thank you. An awful lot of whining out there.
My friend loaned me an oilskin jacket the other day. It was really great against the wind (which is more of a problem where I live than rain) I'm still looking at different methods but it was really helpful to see the whole process start to finish.
I love this stuff. I have several jackets that are oil skinned.
If youre looking at oilskin dusters I would highly recommend the outback trading company oilskin duster, I love mine, I will say though that it takes a couple months before the oiliness is no longer an issue but it didn't stain any furniture or anything that I know of
Toilet rings haven't been beeswax for many years. They're now made of petroleum-slack wax and micro crystalline wax.
A good source for bees wax is a lubricant for fasteners.
I think this is probably the simplest waterproofing DIY That I’ve seen. Really like the tips about the beeswax and the rings. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
boiled linseed oil mixed with white spirit in equal parts no messing about heating
just mix then paint the outside of your hat and leave to dry outside and then your hat is totally waterproof
How long does this last?
Beeswax smells lovely! I don't know what you're talking about calling it stinky. Natural beeswax smells like honey.
Toilet wax it not all beeswax, it has other chemicals also
If you push the crown of the hat down so as to make a bowl of it, you will find it easier to get more even coverage while painting the mix on, just don't let the mix pool in the bottom. Also don't forget that the underside of the brim needs to be coated too (NOT the inside of the crown though). Personally I wouldn't use any scented oil in the mix, as it can become quite cloying after awhile. If you have ever had to put up with someone wearing perfume or cologne inside an enclosed space for several hours you will see what I mean. You can get used to your sweat and the smell of the mix. If you need to have a sent or whatever to repel insects just dab some on the top and bottom of the brim. If your hat gets stinky just wash the inside or carry a supply of ultra thin women's panty liners and put one in front (they are sticky on one side) as a sweat absorber and replace when the old one gets stinky. This works on hard hats and welding helmets as well. You will need at least 2 coatings of mix to start with and occasional reapplications from time to time. Canvas needs more applications to start. It is great if you have a bright sunny(hot) day to spread your canvas out to get nice and warm before applying the mix. It is best to do all your work in Summer, that way you will be all set when the rain (and snow) comes. I hope the information helps.
Thanks for this. This is a timeless process. Much appreciated.
You're welcome
I was taught 1 million years ago, as a boy scout, an easy way to water proof items is with simple emergency candles. Use them like a big crayon and color all over whatever item you wish you waterproof, and then take the hair dryer to it, and we got similar results. Though, I am not sure about the longevity of the two treatments in comparison? I remember the candle wax held up very well, though?
The emergency candles work well though I think that by adding the linseed oil (added waterproofing protection) it gives the cloths a bit more pliability. In my testing, the oil/wax formula is easier to apply and spread over the fabric. Both waxed cotton and oil skin or tin cloth perform similarly. Thanks for the comment.
Billy Blazer I was just going to comment the same. I always seam-seal new tents in that way, hasn't ever let me down yet.
It's definitely true, but the downside is that the candlewax "seals" the fabric completely. It ain't breathable anymore. Then you get it cold due to your own sweat that can't evaporate. 👍
D VoZ not if you use a hair dryer and melt it. That opens the pores of the fabric (area in between the threads) again.
hi , i thinkall the advice is really useful for me, but id like toask some more questions. i am organizing a horse back ride thru the mountains in dec. we will bw wearing denim. can we waterproof them like this and not ruin our saddles? you know part of the leg will be resting on the saddle. and also will this wind proof the stuff too?
thanks im advance
Thank you for your video, i just did this on my Carhartt pants and am excited to see how they turn out!
You’re welcome
Use hair dryer on the non-waxed side of cloth to draw it into the fabric being waterproofed...
Wax is easily drawn toward heat...
I agree with all the comments regarding the length fo the video. Good information, but need to have a goal of 3-5 minute length for all you tube videos. Do this and your followers will triple over night. People want something fast and specific to the point. We are a fast paced society. This is really good advice that will help you grow. Thanks for taking the "time" to make the video.
While I appreciate constructive criticism, I am tired of the impatience a few commenters display. Try as I may, I will not satisfy 100% of the people 100% of the time.
You are the same guys who will watch a 30+ minute long Wranglerstar video and love it. You sound like you are a TH-cam expert telling me how long videos should be and how many subs I can gain. While TH-cam tells me that optimal time is between 8 and 18 minutes. Most of the most popular channels adhere to this guidelineas well as other insider information tactics that I am sure you don't have. (unless you are a TH-cam Partner Manager. Are you?)
Sorry if I offended you. I gave you a positive comment on your video, but only agreed with the majority of the people who watched and commented on your video. If you are posting on TH-cam for the purpose of wanting people to watch your videos, please don't be so aggressive when someone puts themselves out there and provides you with honest constructive feedback in a non-labeling non aggressive manner. This just shows me that you are not willing to learn and grow, which why people watch this stuff any way. And for the record, I have not idea what a Wranglerstar video is, so I guess I really don't fit into that group. In the future I will keep my comments to myself. No good deed goes unpunished, right?
@@CountryLivingExperience
Good job and thank you for all the work and effort you put into this. It IS very informative and useful beyond words. Yes a bit wordy but anyone with a halfwit can see and hear that is or was a new adventure for you and for it being one of the very first ones you did, it was excellent. I look forward to seeing the others you have done now that I found your channel. Keep up all the great work and please by all means keep sharing what you know with the TH-cam world. There are many many of us who can use with a bit more knowledge in the world of self-sufficiency. Thank you again, may God Bless you and your family and stay safe during this nation's current crisis.
Thanks again! Yea, this was one of my first vids. I have definitely improved over the years. God bless y'all as well!
Who else did you look to as the alternative to this method? Which one did you choose? And, how did it turn it out? Thanks!
While using the hair dryer, you could even out the coating with the brush, moving the liquefied excess over to the dry spots.
Good point.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news. but wax ring toilet gaskets are no longer made from bees wax. They haven't been for something like 50 years. They are made from vegetable and petroleum waxes, with polyurethane additives. I guess the rings worked for you but they are not bees wax...
This is an old comment but bees wax is extremely expensive. Has a health-oriented and awesome product such as bees wax actually been used ro seal toilets years ago??
After wax mixture is applied an iron wrapped if foil works well to aid in deeper penetration and evens out the finished coating/surface for a uniform look. Foil is only there so you can take it off and still iron other cloths if needed.
Great idea. Thanks for the heads up.
Curious to know: if you store part of the production in a bottle or tin with an attached or integrated means to aerosolise the contents, and you double-boiler reliquify the paste, can you simply spray the waterproofing onto the target? Would applying it as an aerosol speed the drying by exposing the turpentine to the air more readily? Would the liquid form have to be above a certain temperature to account for the cooling that accompanies the pressure drop? How about using a paint brush dipped in the liquid form to apply it?
And, whether using paste or liquid form, I wonder if it would be advantageous to heat the target (e.g. canvas) in a dryer, or in makeshift sun-powered hothouse, before applying the waterproofing.
Just wanted to thank you for putting up the video. Spent Christmas period waxing 3 field jackets, a pair of underalls and a pair of coveralls. And my Fly Fishing hat. I eyeballed the BLO and really like the results. Came in very handy at the Liberty Bowl in Memphis where it did nothing but rain. And I fast forwarded so no complaints :)
And all that added up to almost 20 toilet wax rings. Probably screwed up my local Ace's forecast on demand of them.
Cool. Thanks for watching. Glad it worked out. I am not sure what all the fuss was on the video but 10 comments out of 150000 views is no biggie.
That’s some really useful feedback, for those of us considering giving it a shot. Thank you.
Some ingredients for waterproofing are flammable. In this case two of them. Have you ever tested a sacrificial waterproofed item that came in contact with a high heat source?
@CountryLivingExperience thanks for the cheaper recipe! You mentioned woodworking...if I used this on outside wood...how long does it stay waterproof? Since you used heat to apply...will the product melt in the hot sun or dryer? If I applied it to an umbrella (say the patio umbrella for example) will it crack off when opened/closed? Does fabric retain it's flexibility?
Man, cut it short! You could talk pulling a nose hair into an hour lecture!!! Other than that, good video!
dmartelis65 haha 👍
A 20 minute video for simple recipe? Seriously?
DITTO
That must have been a gray nose hair I just got my wisdom at Peak
I think you just need to learn how to edit your videos and you'll be grand. Thanks for sharing!
More exciting than this? No way!
Great detail. Homemade is best. So as soon as the shtf use these great recipes from this backyard junkyard dog mad scientist will save your life. You never get wet.
Great job!!!
You are exactly right. Thank you.
How did you learn about not using the Turpentine, that so many others use? What are the pros and cons of leaving it out?
Hey Eric....just used your method on an old canvas jacket. Looking forward to some inclement weather so I can try it out. Thanks for posting
Thanks for the kind comment. It is refreshing to hear one on this video.
Other than being quite flammable that's an ok recipe I would use that and make small blocks of it with saw dust in it as fire starter
the cuteness isnt entertaining when we want to learn this EDIT!!!!
Stop crying and move on
Exactly
@@CountryLivingExperience 😂😅🤣 Buncha ❄️❄️❄️ - Tom MacDonald wrote a song for all them called "Snowflakes"‼️ I highly recommend it.
Cool idea! I've never tried making my own waterproofing material.
I like this and am wondering how well it will work on camoflauge material if used and how much it would change the color of it?
It will certainly darken whatever material you put it on.
Thank you for showing the application on a hat. I'm using Sno-Seal and my ultimate goal is a canvas duffle shaped bag (not flat). I think I'll do a baseball cap first!!
cool
Open flame outdoors is a little too risky?
Awesome tutorial,I have been wanting to know how to do this for a long time. You made it very understandable and I felt like I was just hanging out in your garage learning how to make old school waterproofing. Thank you for the knowledge, very much appreciated.
Glad you liked it. Thank you
What is in that wax ring other than bees wax, seems awfully sticky for just bees wax?
Some paragon I believe
Just reading comments Theres always one who can do it better! 😂 I enjoyed this and will do it on a canvas to stop the north wind blowing me about my garden! ♥️🏴England
Both those economically priced ingredients cost a fortune in Britain. Cheapest wax rings are about $40 here because they're an American thing and have to be imported. Boiled linseed oil isn't exactly cheap here either.
For the price of a cup of your formula we'd be paying more than you would be for a gallon of that stuff you mentioned that costs a lot for a little bottle.
You can use any other carrier oil you like. They don't call it bees wax for nothing.Its free if you find a hive of bees.
Does the hat remain tacky to touch since using toilet bowl sealant wax? That wax is designed to stay tacky and never fully harden, therefore, does it remain that way on the fabric as well? Do you always feel like film is coming off on your hands when you handle the hat?
At the ratio of ingredients, the boiled linseed oil prevents the wax from being tacky. It does not feel as though it is coming off. Let it dry and cure sufficiently and it will be great. Thanks for your comment.
I know this video was from 5 years ago, not sure if you still look at the comments. I am wondering how this would hold up in the wash? I need to make something for my dog for her accidents and may have to wash some what frequently. Any suggestion or tweaks you can suggest to accommodate that?
Btw, I loved your video and did not think it was dragged out. For someone like me, I am very detailed orientated so this was fabulous 😊
Glad the video was helpful and thank you for the kind words. I haven't really washed any of these types of items before. I would assume they would not hold up. I do think if you just sprayed it off with a high pressure hose, it would take care of the "accident".
My beeswax is not stinky and it is a very Light color. I use it for encaustic painting. The one you are using is very dark. I’m just curious if it is just beeswax or does it have anything else in it? Also mine is hard if it is not melted and yours looks soft so I am just wondering what is in it to make it so soft? I am looking for something to waterproof my painting apron so that my watercolors will not sink into the fabric and I can keep the apron clean. thankyou 😊
This was actually mixed with some paraffin.
I tried a similar recipe using mineral spirits & boiled linseed oil on some canvas and it stank for months. It was quite a powerful stench. You could smell it across my backyard a couple months afterwards. Never doing that again.
Mine smells fine. I let it air out for just a week and a half.
Yep. You talk about ??? Nice idea on wax ring. Can't take how long it takes to tell...
Hi I love your video. I have two questions? The first one is 'would this work on a US Army Canvas pup tent, how much treatment would I need for 9' long x 6' wide x 42" high? The second question is does the wax you are using mind the suns heat on it. Because where I'm living it gets hot like 96.8 °Fahrenheit. And would this have a bad effect on the canvass treatment?
Thank you. It would work for a canvas tent. I have no idea how much you will need. The linseed oil will help stabilize the wax but I have never spent prolonged time in temps that hot.
You can use silicone sealant diluted with turpentine oil instead of bees wax.
I recommend really looking into essential oils here if you have pets. Many people bring dogs camping and some essential oils aren't safe for them.
Hi there! I am a school teacher, and I have always wanted to teach my students a traditional waterproofing method. Your video is perfect. However, in colonial times, people did not have hairdryers. Will the wax and linseed oil soak in just as well. If I do this project I’m a very hot summer day? Thanks again.
You're welcome.
Without the hairdryer, it may be a bit more uneven but will dry nonetheless.
I think your other question got cut off. I do not understand what you are asking.
Is it stiff? How shiny? Does it breathe still? I like it, appreciate the vid, just not sure of the details
It is a bit stiff. It is not breathable anymore.
I happen to have a sun bleached boonie that’d be perfect. I usually quip that being a greasy Irishman, I can waterproof my own hats simply by wearing them, but this looks a little more effective. I need a new boonie for hot and dry days anyway.
Just curious as to why you waterproofed a hat with 4 holes in it???
Interesting, I wonder if you got a spray bottle if this could be sprayed on. It seems simple enough to use. Thanks for the info.
It is too thick to spray on. Additionally, the wax starts to set and harden not long after it is taken off the heat. The paint brush is the best method of application that I found.
Cool thanks, was thinking of using this on a tent, that is why I was asking.
A comment on another video says you can. You will just have to heat up the spray bottle first by heating it up in a pot of boiling water.
didnt read all comments, but old trick was to melt fat, usually beef fat & brush it on, old school butchers still use this to coat shoes & boots when factory protective finish wears off, as they clean dept. every night & this will keep feet dry, never tried on anything else, but I can assure you been using it for decades on my footwear. lol.
Very interesting.
What a great hack idea. I'm gonna try it.
Hmm nice idea but what use is all that sealer when you have breathing holes in your hat ?? Or did you do this on purpose as an example ? Which you should of pointed out in the video . (Y)
Just a FYI for canvas I wouldn't use this. It's very flammable even when dry not good for work clothes or tents. There is an easier way for canvas. Mix Coleman fuel aka white gasoline and 100% clear silicone caulk/sealant. Put sealant in old jar and Coleman fuel shake and stir until dissolved in fuel. Add more fuel as needed.. Once dissolved run thru paint strainer/filter. Brush on canvas and let dry. Do all this outside and away from flames and blow dryers. Once canvas drys (5-30 min depends on temp) your left with flame retarded canvas. The fuel smell goes away it's not like reg gasoline. I use on my tents for 30yrs now.
Now you are making it really flammable for sure. Just keep to the original recipe.
Totally misleading statement, its only flammable during application and drying period which is only few minutes during warm weather application. Once dry it is actually fire resistant. Coleman fuel evaporates and leaves dry silicone infused with canvas. Original recipe is flammable all the time vs Coleman fuel recipe only for a few minutes while drying.
@@MrFlyTWA I've worn waxed clothing for years. It's never caught fire, and it's unlikely ever to do so. Any temperature that sets the cured wax on fire is going to burn you anyway. Cotton is already flammable, whilst nylon, polyester and plastic coatings are both flammable and extremely nasty when they melt in to your skin. Remember that next time you wear a modern waterproof near a fire.
@@another3997 I was a lineman for years and would never anything but cotton or wool. Wearing wax covered canvas and sleep in a tent with a wood stove are two different things compared to wearing a jacket. Sure you can get away with it, but I just tend to play it safe. I sleep better at night.
Wow! Thanks for thinking out of the box!! Thanks again for sharing!!
You're welcome
My personal experience with naphtha gave me an allergic reaction to overnight exposure to breathing the fumes from a large block of the substance in a small bedroom. I ended up with my eyes swollen swollen shut, and a somewhat swollen respiratory system. I required antihistamine medication by injection to counteract these effects. I’ve been diligent in avoiding any extended
Contact or exposure since then!!!
You should always use a well ventilated area when using chemicals like this. Some people are allergic to different things. Be sure to always check labels and use ad directed.
Nice video Thanks for the work and effort, I'm not sold on the idea of the toilet ring though, most are not beeswax at all and are made from petroleum based products. It'll still work as described for a inexpensive waterproofing.
Thank you. I appreciate it. You're right, some of those rings still have a percentage of beeswax in them and the rest is paraffin.
GREAT VIDEO!!!!!! Going to give this a try!!!!
Awesome. Thank you.
Citronella oil would be great to add to the mixture. It’s a great deterrent against bugs.
Absolutely. Good suggestion.
This recipe is great for wooden handles or metal tools but I would use mineral oil instead of Boiled Linseed oil for something that will be against your skin.
I have never had a problem with this formula being against my skin. Nor have I heard of anyone else having any issues. The boiled linseed (in pure form) that is applied directly to wood handles such as axes are also in direct contact with your skin.
How about kneats foot oil
@@mdamon7031 That may work well. Kneats foot is good stuff. I am not sure it would cure the same when mixed with the wax though. Give it a shot and make a vid.....I would watch that.
Thanks for sharing. I will give this a try.
I was surprised at the criticism in the comments. But you know what they say about opinions...
Thanks Kaveman Dave
If the materials are flammable does this make the hat flammable after curing?
Most clothes are flammable. This is more stable when cured.
Have you considered the increased flammability of the hat or other clothes items? How about a burn test of coated material and uncoated material? Or at least a warning about flammability?
Don't be a wuss.
How long does it last, for instance on a tent exposed to Irish rain all year round?
I have never used one item (hat or tent) continuously in harsh conditions. There are a lot of factors that would go in to determining how long it would last.
I enjoyed the video and thought you were ok with your presentation, not too long. But wondered about wearing that hat with that stuff on it. The hat would not breathe so you might get a wet head from perspiration, it might be more flammable with the linseed oil all in the material, and I wonder if you might get sorta a sticky head wearing it for a while as the linseed oil might come out some. Just my thoughts, not trying to belittle your video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. You are correct. It does not breathe like modern fabrics but this is the way they used to do it in the past. It is fairly inexpensive and a good option in a pinch.
What are wax rings used for in a toilet, ive never seen or even heard of one before this video?
To seal the flange when you replace a toilet.
Does anybody know about the difference between beeswax and wax rings? Im trying to stay away from petroleum and dangerous benzene which Im thinking wax rings contain.
great video I need to water proof some sumbrella canopy fabric that is being used for a collapsable tent fabric. How stiff does this oil/wax mixture make the fabric???
It is fairly stiff.
Great video! Very affordable solution
Thank you
Whether you think he's smart or not for doing this whole process, you definitely have to respect the fact that he was smart enough not to use the wife's Pyrex
Don't let her catch you using her hair dryer either! Just sayin
I have done this water proofing befor a lot of years ago, but can't remember if both sides of the fabric needed to be done or was it just the outer surface and let it soak thrue when heated with either a hair dryer or heat gun. I have a heat gun and have a few things that need to be water proofed ( old canvases military back pack, haver sacks, boonies hats, and boots hunting/hicking boots ). And realy would like to know. Also both what was the oil that you put in to help ease the smell and how long does it last?
One side was sufficient for us with the hat. I put peppermint oil to help ease that smell but it wore off before the wax smell. The wax smell then wore off not long after that.
Oh, wax rings. Problem is, they are sticky at room temp because they already have additives to keep the wax supple. Maybe for tarps. Not for clothing.
Linseed oil stabilizes it. No stickiness after dried.
That was a nice bonny, wish I still had mine. Now I want to see you wearing that hat for a day in the rain. You'll be taking it off hoping for the rain to cool your sweaty head.
Guess you'll have a wet head either way.
@@CountryLivingExperience Good come back!Lol
If you're going to waterproof several stuff and you have a big enough container, you could soak the item in the waterproofing.
That's what an Australian folding expedition trailer company does with their canvas.
I suppose you could. It would have to make sense financially though.
Thank you for this step by step! This was great.
You're welcome
Quick question. Do you have to worry about spontaneous combustion on the fabrics using linseed oil? Especially if you're storing the item in the closet.?
No chance. Beyond never hearing of that happening and it not happening to me, I do not think they would sell a product that would be that unstable. You should not worry.
Country Living Experience awesome! I just know that on boiled Linseed oil they always recommend properly disposing of the rags that are used. Thanks for putting up the information about how to make this product. I've been trying to find something and this looks like it might just be the right thing to fit the bill for my canvas. Just subscribed. Great channel.
Thanks Mike
could a sheet be done for a tarp?
It may be better to use heavy canvas.
Great video! I love that you supported Wranglerstar too. God Bless and Good Luck with your channel I'll be looking forward to more videos.
Thanks man. I appreciate it.
Chevelle red
How would it work for an M-65 type (clone) all cotton field jacket? I'm concerned about stiffness and major color change.
It will stiffen a bit but will work in quickly as soon as you start wearing it. I have never found it to be uncomfortably stiff. As for darkening, it will deepen the color of whatever you put it on but the will fade over time and is not permanent. I thing the color change is minor and a positive. Best luck.
I believe that is how the typical "Duster" or "Drover" overcoats (oil coats) are treated. Cotton duck canvas "oiled" for water resistance. They were originally made from old ships sails. Pitch and various other oils were used along with wax to waterproof the coats. You can also purchase a can of the modern mixture from companies that sell Outback style dusters. Heat it up, and paint it on. Heat with a hair dryer as shown here. Comes in a can that looks like a saddle soap can. You can purchase it from Amazon too.
www.amazon.com/Outback-Trading-Oilskin-Duckback-Dressing/dp/B002SEFJRK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541008938&sr=8-1&keywords=oilskin+reproofing
@@angryagain68 you just told me concisely what I watched 6 video to not find out!!! THANK YOU!!!!!
might wanna try mixing in some silicone or making a mixture of ingredients. just the wax will make the hat hard/brittle.
It is not brittle. Possibly because of the linseed oil.
what is the material of the smallest bottle ? thanks for your answer..
Peppermint essential oil to make it smell better.
Did that hat shrink at all and should u get a size up and does it stay ridgid
It didn't shrink.
Thanks for the info good video
Good video, great info. Good to edit out some of the waffling... Thanks, God bless.
Thank you. This is a 6 year old video and not at all like the videos I make now. I improved and grew.
No UV protection?
...I think he may be referring to the fact that animals are going to smell the honey in the beeswax and either be repelled (bad if you're a hunter trying to sneak up on a deer, etc) or attracted (bad if it's a bear or more bees hungry for the honey). Either that, or he just doesn't like the smell. Not everyone does.
The wax rings just went up in price because of this video 😎
Here folks, is a male who is going to be sleeping in the dog house when his wife finds out he took a pyrex glass measuring jar away from the kitchen and into his garage, oh wait! He just lost his mind and also took her hair dryer to the garage as well! (Typed in my best Steve irwin voice) Nice video and thank you for posting it!
Lol! Thanks man.
@@CountryLivingExperience hopefully, you were able to get a good laugh out of it!
I was going to type something similar, except stating that all the wife points he saved by not using her Pyrex were immediately erased by touching her hair dryer with toilet wax covered hands. When my father in law recently gifted me his heat gun, the relief I felt was palpable knowing I’d never again use my wife’s hair dryer for projects.
Star Brite waterproofing spray $15 will do 50 hats. The wax and oil method works it's used on wood as a natural sealant. However it does not breathe or wick moisture which is not really something I want on a hat. Otherwise this would be a good method for leather saddlebags, a old canvas tent, or a front porch swing.
True. This can be used for a variety of other items.
putting this on clothes how flammable do you become I.e. is it safe near camp fire?
Beeswax, paraffin and boiled linseed oil are flammable in certain states. I have never had a problem being next to a campfire and this catching fire. Unless you jump in the fire, you are going to be ok. Any fire is dangerous to any clothing material.
If you have your clothing coated with it and you notice your clothing starting to melt, GET AWAY FROM THE FIRE...
Beeswax and paraffin works?
linseed oil even boild linseed oil are suitable for paints incl. all negative properties like hardening any brush used, able to self-inflame cloths you used. Linseed oil is not suitable for leather as due to polymerisation of the linseed oil in the leather the leather fibres will break earlier under stress.
Any plant oil will soften dry leather due to fact that any plant oil (and animal oil/grease) incl. glycerin, which is attracting humitity.
Simple recipe is using rapeseed oil instead of linseed oil for leather if the recipe incl. components, which you would like to solute. But at leather you can also mix Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly) with Beeswax. Vaseline as component is offering a functionality for cleaning leather, get other components incl. grease, wax and oil solute and protecting waterproofing wax from washing out.
Interesting is that Holmenkol is using just waxes for material care and waterproofing at Holmenkol Natural Active Wax.
Would that run if you was in the heat and really sweaty or is it stable
It hasn't so far. Been pretty stable.
How long does this stay waterproof?
I didn't put it through very harsh use. A few years.
@@CountryLivingExperience great thanks
Like using boiled linseed oil mixed with minx fat to waterproof boots.
Cool
Do you know if this would work on nylon...like gaiters, for example. Just wondering if the linseed oil would act as a solvent on nylon. Thnx.
It should work on nylon......But. My recommendation is to try it on a test piece first. The formulation of the nylon and the wax/oil treatment will determine if they react. Linseed oil will dissolve many plastics.
good idea on using the toilet wax rings, i was going to go buy the beeswax separately, but this is more convenient and cheaper
Thanks. The beeswax rings are very hard to find. They are almost always paraffin now.
@@CountryLivingExperience good to know, thanks. will get a small block of beeswax along with the toilet wax then. keep up the good videos
The recipe from the video is:
1 kg of wax or beeswax + 1 kg of boiled linseed oil + essential oil (optional)
Great info!!
Glad it was helpful!
Country Living Experience: I do have a question
i walk on the corn fields every day when the corn season starts there is where the real waterproof gear its tested do you think this would work on frogs waterprof jacket and pants?? I been trying many diferent waterproof clothes and after 15 minutes in to the field i am all wet
I don't think this will work well on Frog Togs. I have some of those and they are pretty solid rain gear to begin with. Additionally this waterproofing does not breathe. If you are working in the hot summer sun, you are going to sweat out more water than you get on you from the corn field.
@@CountryLivingExperience you're right thank's for your response!!
Thanks for the knowledge.
My pleasure