Yeah that other comment was just mean thankfully you were more kern to smart back at that other mean comment like this is useful info kinda slow but non the less it was made in good spirits I think anyways
@BoopBoop88 His comment was posted a year before and is only 30 (+/- a few) ahead. The video is fantastic, in my opinion. If you're a city slicker, then maybe go fondle the other guys' huevos.
His recipe 15:02: 16oz Microcrystalline Wax 2oz Pure Tung Oil 6oz Tung Oil Finish 8 oz Mineral Spirits Add Microcrystalline Wax to Double boiler (179•f melting point) Prewarm pants in dryer In separate container Mix mineral spirits and Tung oil with tung oil finish Any touched surface is flammable until product cures, (smell will be gone), from days to weeks be careful. Once wax is melted add solution and let heat back up. Remove from heat but leave water in under pan to keep it warm. Stir occasionally to prevent separating. Paint it on like you mean it, you can scrape extra off later but heat gun will most likely spread it all out and help it absorb. Hang up to dry. Will take 2-4 weeks to dry. After dry use heat gun (as blow drier will not get hot enough). Melt in any excessive wax. Use dry brush to move to any dry spots. Take bondo scraper, and help all fibers to evenly float in the wax Repeat as needed
Good day all. I have used this method now for a while. The best by far! Increased the varnish a bit to aid drying and seems to be a bit of a better result. In the UK I used Liberon finishing oil from Amazon. Just completed some "tin pants" using Carhartt Double Duck pants. These are very tough and very thick. Highly recommend for logging and abrasive ground work. One pair I have just done the front double section and the pants wash well on a cool cycle. Just re-wax, with the cold remains of the solution every 10 - 15 washes. I have also re-waxed some older Filson pieces with the wax mix and makes for a much better "Tin Cloth". Another great use for this wax is sealing the welt on custom boots. I have some Franks and JK boots that I have run this wax around the base of the boot and has made them super water proof. Many many uses. Great video Lone Woodmen! Many thanks..
@@TheLoneWoodman Did you ever use heavy blue denim jeans? Blue jeans used to come with the denier weight on the tag. Do you leave your oilcloth out for at least a week?
@TheLoneWoodman brother can you help me, I suffered a stroke 1 year ago. And for the life of me I can't follow the directions here. I remember using yiur video before my stroke no problem. Can you tell me exactly how much of what you used please. This is really really embarrassing I feel like a child.
Thanks for the research, time, energy, and the sacrifice you made to give to us this incredible information. This has value beyond the way you applied this mixture. It can be used for even partial coatings for specific functions. Water proof, wind proof, and tear proof or at the least abrasion resistant! The implications of this product is not only limitless, but the money saving value is phenomenal. Took this recipe down and it will be put to use as soon as possible. Great job!!!
Years on, this is still the very best you could ask for when it comes to tin cloth options for absolute ruggedness. I run a commercial mix from RM Williams for a more oiled, flexible option at times but this, this is just out and out the most bomb proof tin cloth solution you could ask for. Thanks from Australia!
@@honkyvanwildebeest8926 Woah, sorry. I don't have notifications on as it turns out. RM Williams used to sell various re-proofers but seem to have discontinued the line. I believe they were just re-branded Halley Stevensons re-proofers / waxing products.
That's what I was thinking, Sir. A bit more or less of one or the other ingredients. Thank you for your input and continued success my friend from across the big pond. It's nice to have a starting place and someone who pioneered the way. 5000 heads can usually perfect almost anything. It's an awesome community. God bless you Sir.
Thanks for this, the best how-to video on tin pants I've found. I tried a similar recipe: microcrystalline wax, tung oil and mineral spirits (2:1:1). No tung oil finish because I couldn't source it in Scotland (incidentally, the oiled tin pants fabric used by Filson is made in Scotland, it's called waxed cotton here). This gives a tough fabric, probably too much for "leisure" waxed garments. I've waxed a pair of Carhartt B01 pants and a Carhartt Duck Active Jac J131, the one with the polyester lining. I dried them in an ordinary oven on the lowest setting for about 45 minutes, placing the garment on a piece of cardboard and taking care that the garment didn't touch the oven sides and risk getting stained. (check your oven setting to make sure it's not too hot, otherwise its dangerous) When applying the mixture, it's wise to do this on a warm day, the liquid turns sludge quite quickly. I have used an electric slow cooker to melt and mix the ingredients, but be warned, despite your best efforts, the wax gets everywhere. Yes, a heat gun is essential, but I'd warn about using it near the zipper, even if the teeth are metal; the zipper backing is polyester, which easily melts and then ruins the zipper function. I have, however, successfully used the heat gun on the jacket without damaging the lining by keeping the jacket firmly zipped up. I removed the hood drawstring. I took extra care not to direct the heat gun on to the cuffs or waistband, a piece of wood can be used as a shield. I found you could return to remelt the wax to penetrate and smooth the fabric at any time during the curing period which I found to be about three weeks. This smoothing process I found the be the most labor intensive. I used small pieces of foam sheet to evenly spread the wax before it cooled. They clog up with wax after a few minutes, so several are useful. Any left over wax mixture can be cooled and stored in an airtight jar and used for used for other projects, like proofing leather boots, but I'd be very wary of using a heat gun near leather, it can easily damage the leather. Lastly, any left over tung oil is best stored in containers without air in them (the oil cures by oxidation). Either fill to the top in glass jars, or add glass marbles to excuse the air from a partly filled jar. Best wishes.
I used more spirit to make the mixture thinner and applied it with a spray gun. The mixture soaked deeper into the fabric, making it water repellent right through. That way, even if water penetrates the surface, their is no fabric to get soggy underneath. With the speed of the spray gun, neither the mixture or the pants cooled, so not needing to use a heat gun, the whole process took about 5 minutes. I believe that is the same method used by the manufacturers of pre treated clothing. I also diluted the remaining mixture still further for use to retreat and top up the coating when required at a later date. .
I worked with microcrystalline wax doing lost wax casting for jewelry when I was in college. You want to use extremely good ventilation. Breathing the vapors from the microcrysalline can cause brain and nerve damage over prolonged exposure. I won't go into the details here, but it caused a very fine artist to have to give up his art because he lost fine motor controls in his hands and it affected his vision as well.
Always a good thing to look up the Safety Data Sheet on anything you work with. Prolonged skin exposure to any of these ingredients would be good to research as well.
Mark Fritch That is one of the many reasons I use an even mixture of paraffin and bees wax with walnut oil... ALL NATURAL! I don’t even use commercially available Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) due to the chemical driers used in it. (The “chemical driers” are a mixture that causes the seeming drying action of the oil to happen much quicker, but it isn’t drying of course it is a chemical oxidation process, and for most people the oxidation process happening in ten days is fast enough...why add dangerous chemicals when there is no need, remember, these pants will be against your skin for 6 to 18 hours a day any day you wear them). In fact my mixture is food safe... And again, there are three drying oils, Linseed, walnut, tung, so there are choices to be had; and you can always buy raw Linseed oil (no driers) if you really want to use linseed... This was a great vid, lots of info.
You did an EXCELLENT job of explaining complex concepts and making them understandable. This is a gift. I am a professor and know a good one when I see one....
k but his explanation of intramolecular forces, polarity, hydrophobicity ect, read like a simple wikipedia article and in many places is just wrong or goes off on tangents that have little to do with the fundamental difference between waxes.... its like something that was written by an AI chat bot...
I’ve been making a waterproof from bees wax, turpentine & mineral oil. I still have some from the last batch. I like your scientific approach. This is my new recipe for an oilskin coat & tin pants.
This video was a lifesaver! I’ve searched for the past three days for some solid info on the best wax for pants. All I could find was your standard video repeating what others have said, or someone painting their pants with acrylic. Thank you!!! Also, I did come across one other cool video. Take a mason jar. Fill it 3/4 with mineral spirits, fill the other 1/4 with pure silicone (from a literal caulking gun). Shake it till it’s all mixed. Apply it to your pants. Then let the mineral spirits evaporate. Now you have a permanent silicone infused cloth that’s 100% waterproof. Probably wouldn’t be as breathable as wax though.
I have no idea how this video ended up in my suggested list, but I started watching it and found it fascinating, and oddly comforting. Comforting, because my father was an avid woodworker, and it reminded me of him. Thank you!
You may want to consider using a hard rubber Ink Roller during the application process. Pressure under the roller would force the mix into the fibers and it should help to levelize the wax mix, reducing the amount of scraping afterward.
Enjoyed your presentation and the extended time you put into the subject. I have had several hunting vest, pants, jackets and bird vest handed down to me overtime. Many have been Folsom products none of which I paid for. They were gifts from friends and family. Those garments lasted many years. During my tours in Vietnam I asked my Mom to send bees wax for the same purpose. It didn’t last long. However during the monsoons it helped keep my thighs somewhat comfortable. Aside from some negative comments everyone who spends time in the outdoors needs cost effective clothing that works and is durable. At 75 I still enjoy hunting in winter for game. Packing into the backcountry and other beneficial activities in cold wet weather. I greatly appreciate your sharing this information. I will be using your system soon. Sergeant of Marines. 100% Disabled Combat Veteran. USMC. SEMPER FIDELIS
I make candles as a side gig, so I do a LOT with wax mixes. With the oil/micro mix you have, you basically have created a very high-density/low-density mixture. I think actually mixing a bit of paraffin in would help bridge the gap and add a medium-density wax to the mixture. This would help fill in any gaps between your densities. It would be an interesting experiment, at the very least. Also, with the heat gun method, I can't imagine that the drying agents in the finishing oil survived the heat required to melt the MS wax - the "wetness" left was almost certainly the higher-density oils and waxes that simply needed to cool and set. I don't see any reason why you couldn't use a heat gun to fully finish the pants in one-go... but, again, worth a test.
Something you may want to do that your pants would benefit from is putting them in a body length pillowcase and putting several washcloths in the pillowcase with the pants then sewing it shut. Then putting that in another body length pillowcase sew it closed as well and run it through two or three high heat dry cycles in a dryer. This will even out the waterproofing and get rid of all the extra waterproofing that isn't doing anything but keeping the pants tacky to the touch. I do this with tarps, ground cloths and most leather & canvas pouches I make. Great video my friend and thanks for the wax upgrade idea that's awesome info. God Bless Brother an Keep On Keep'in On!
Oh I should tell you this as well. Make sure an adjust the pants in the pillowcases about every 40 minutes or so. This will just even out the waterproofing even more. Also every dryer is different so open the pillowcases between each cycle and check the progress, also you may need to change out the rags if they're full of waterproofing. These things will just depend on how much extra waterproofing was on the pants or whatever item you were waterproofing
I would also apply the first coat with more tongue oil and more turpentine and less wax let it dry for a few days or a few hours so its no longer dripping then apply some heat to evaporate some of the turpentine then apply the mix already used to get a stronger molecular bond with the fabric as I suspect the wax is not really bonding with the fabric on a molecular level at all but the tongue oil would bond with the cotton adding a very small amount of a weak acid will help bond to the fabric I suspect vinegar and alcohol will do well 1 fl ounce of 91 mixed with one 1/4 fl ounce of vinegar then dump that into the turpentine for the first batch of treatment the benefit I am seeking to gain is when its close to time redue the pants you will still have more water proofing even as allot of the treatment is flaking off
18:24 I just realized that this is probably the correct way to pour from these kind of containers. I have always done it opposite of this and usually spill all over the place. Never stop learning.
Nice video, good to know how this process is done. An alternative way to make your clothes more durable is to mix 1 part wood glue to 4 parts water, then soak your pants with it in a large bowl. Ring the pants out then hang them to dry. Makes the pants about twice as durable. And you can wash them in the washing machine when they get dirty. This process leaves the fabric breathable, so you can use it in the summer. Check it out, it is awesome.
I'd love some more info on this idea for some wood shop bibs, but I'm not able to find any. Do you have any links to articles or videos that might be helpful?
@@mikerobertson5919 I don't know of any articles. I did it as a experiment to try to make my military uniform last longer and stay stiff. Back in the days of BDU uniforms (jungle pattern) keeping your uniform "wrinkle free" we starched and ironed our uniform to make it like cardboard. Seems kinda crazy now. I was a mechanic, why should my clothes be stiff like cardboard? The glue works great 👍. The fabric is much tougher with the glue. But after washing and drying several times there are a few big wrinkle marks from the washer and dryer mechanical action.
Back in the early 1970's I was stationed at NAS Cubi Point in the Philippines. Like a lot of sailors I bought a motorcycle to get around and eventually joined a motorcycle club there. Some of our members were into motocross racing, which was a lot of fun. One of my club members (Bob Davis) was complaining about how his feet were getting wet during the races (it was the beginning of the rainy season). I told him that I could waterproof his boots for him if he would give them to me. I ended up using a heat gun and a block of beeswax. I melted the beeswax and applied it to the boots after I had heated the boots with the heat gun. I did this over and over and worked the leather until it would not absorb the wax any more. After the next race Bob wanted to know what I had done to keep his feet dry in spite of all the mud and water he had to go through. Bob was a good friend and was worth the work that I did for him. This video reminded me of the good times that I had with him. In 2019 his family and friends lost Bob due to cancer, he is missed by all that knew him. Our club was know as "The New Breed" and you would be hard put to find a better group men.
Thank you for taking the time to share your research and techniques. It is obvious that significant effort went into this project and it is very good of you to share it with the world.
Working outside in all weather i need a work jacket that was not only wind proof, it had to be waterproof. Knowing only a little of waxes that could be used to create various candles i need something more flexible. That gave me the idea of Coconut oil. Mixing close to equal parts of: Bees wax, Coconut oil seemed the way to go. Now my work jacket is wind and water proof. In a double-boiler melting both bees wax & coconut oil while stirring together, then applying it to cloth, allowing it to cool to room temperature proved to be very effective. This method also means there are no toxic ingredients used.
Got a new coat, and am going to do this to my old canvas coat (after some thorough cleaning). Really great breakdown of each part, and why you chose them! On linseed oil, I love double boiled linseed for wood handtools. I know there's better, but I like the smell of it, and I like the way it makes the wood feel in my hands. Tung oil though has always been a favorite of mine as well though. It's very versatile. From furniture, rifle stocks, hand tools, and as you have shown, cloths!
Sir, great video and instruction WITH your reasons why, perfect. I used a similar beeswax (no tung oil,) in the UK for aprroximatey 40yrs and I am still using the original jacket and coat, this mixture was for waterproofing, and enjoying mild, but wet weather . I have now been living in North Ohio. Not necessarily enjoying the very much colder weather. My original UK wax coat and jacket would crack the wax in the cold. So that's when I searched for a solution and EVENTUALLY, found you and your recipe which is perfect for cold weather flexibility, and better anti tear / anti penetration properties for rough forest use. For a short term test of your recipie I got some cheap lined jean's, and after 5 years they have become my goto hard work stay safe and dry pants (to clean: i turn them inside out, apply a light coating to lining dawn/water solution, let soak 15mins, then use a gentle setting on power washer ) so thank you again. In June 2022 I am going back to UK to and I will be skippering a narrowboat, which means I am out side, in ll weathers and I will be wearing my waxed coats and pant . Thanks again for you time and effort to share your knowledge. Best regards Colin, PS I have since waxed (your recipe) carhartt jacket and pants, and an older knock off carhartt for really horrible jobs.
This was fantastic. You might be the only person i've seen that has taken a scientific approach to this, and I appreciate that. I hope you might consider making a leather conditioner or something of that nature with the same scientific mind. Thank you for the fantastic video.
Thanks for doing all that grunt work for us; appreciate it! Used to wonder myself what was the reasoning behind using beeswax + linseed oil and why no one has done an in-depth analysis of the pros & cons of the various agents and/or their combinations employed to make diy oilskin pants & jackets. Very well made and informative video!
So what you have is an improvement on the old Waxed Oilcloth from back in the 1800's. Which is what the old slickers aka Raincoat, that the cowboys wore. And also the canvas tarps used in their bedrolls. 👍
No way, I’m neither a Scientist nor a researcher and yet I also discovered that Pure Tung Oil is superior to Linseed and I use it on my axe handles. I also wondered why Linseed Oil was so prolific and came to the same conclusion. Great informative video sir.
30:00 This was the big question I had. I want to make camping gear for my husband to take the grandkids out and start teaching them bushcraft. The last thing I wanted was to encourage everything I love in this world to sleep inside a flammable fabric shelter. This test put my mind at ease. I'll still run my own tests to find the real world limits, but this looks promising. Fantastic video. Deeply appreciated.
I appreciate what you did here! Thanks! Just earlier today I was asking my father-in-law his advice on how to wax my Carhartt J140 coat! This is some nearly forgotten knowledge that more people should and need to learn. In the very least to be able to appreciate it for themselves! I know that there's still a big crowd of folks that depend on clothing of this type. Not as much as in olden times, but still there are. Such as people that live in colder climates or have a job that actually puts them at risk. So I thank you and applaud your scientific approach/work! Best regards!
Wow I so appreciate you sharing your time and energy spent researching this and then kind enough to share your knowledge gained. What a nice genuine person you are.
I saw this video years ago. and I knew I was going to need it one day. I’ve spent hours trying to find this video and I’m so glad I found it. Because this video is such a gem!
This was a pretty solid video with a great process. I think if I were to try it, I would take bakers parchment paper and coat that. Once setup, you can turn them face down and use a dry iron to get a transfer to the cloth. That will help you get a consistent film thickness and probably be cleaner. Also, fibers do not impregnate, they only take coatings. Fibers are twisted into yarns that make up the woven cloth. Getting those yarns to fully wick the mixture is closer to what actually happens here and probably why I would use a dry iron/transfer approach.
I’m not even going to make these pants and I still loved the video.. scientific approach, no hokey nonsense you are way better then most keep up the great work!
This is an excellent video and really interesting for those of us interested in the granularity of how the waxes perform. Thank you for your video and the explanation of your decision making process. I'm excited to do this myself and hope you'll post updates in the future!
I make tin pants with pure tung oil and microcrystalline wan only . I make them in July when it’s hot out so because the tung oil cures faster that way and it cures in about a month and I don’t have to use chemicals like turpentine and other drying agents doing it this way . I cote it heavy and rub it in the fabric then use a heat gun and scrape of the excess. Then I take them to the laundry mat where they have a dryer for work only put it in for an hour, then I take then home hang them up and let it cure for a month in my shed when the weather is hot and then they are ready to wear .
This was soooo great. I did a riding duster and I wish I had watched this first. 1) it showed me the product that was sold to me was not quite the the caliber you're making, 2). I could have done a much better technique to spread out on the cloth and 3) I missed the scraping after 3 weeks and mine was really patchy. Hopefully I can go back and fix this. Finally you are right, not only is the purchase premade product sub par and expensive, the labor intensive process is as well. So glad I found you. Thanks so much! You're awesome!
Hello there. I really appreciate your showing 'the boss', who is supervising your every move, making sure you do things in a right manner, and of course, also to remind you, "HEY! FEED ME!!!". Yes, I, to, had a supervisor for nearly 18 years, but mine was a 'Ginger' tabby. Then time caught-up to him. I really miss Winston doing his best to keep me in line... sigh. Like the videos.
Thank you, Michel, my supervisor keeps an eye on things in every project I do! Thank you for sharing about Winston, I'm sure his good help is greatly missed. Hopefully you are able to get another boss around to keep things in order again. It sure makes things more enjoyable. Thanks again, Michel. Take care, friend!
Lots of qualified bosses waiting at the unemployment shelter for someone to come save their life... (I live in a city that only allows three animals per household, we have our three but I’ll be getting another half dozen when I relocate to my offgrid property in three years when I retire...if you want your projects to come out just right, you need lots of supervisors).
Say Michael, my buddy and I are were reading the comments here. He reminded me of his wife control. She says what I'm going to do. She makes strong suggestions I can get the last word in.... Yes dear!
Loved the video! I can tell that you’ve done your research, and know the subject well! You also explained the science in a way that was really understandable. It’s awesome whenever someone uses science to improve their hobby, or whatever field their interested in. Keep up the good work!
Your recipe and process was exceptional. I am glad to find out what tin pants actually constitute and what they are used to protect the wearer from. I might actually try my hand at making a pair. Thanks for your very careful research to find the best ingredients. I totally approve of your work.
What a great video. I followed your recipe and made myself some. I used Carhartt double fronts and after a year I am thoroughly impressed. For the cost savings that Filson tin pants would cost these are just great. These are not a summer type pants I found out. But in the colder seasons there about my favorite pants to wear. Thank you. Suggestion: if you make these pants you will have to explain to people that they are not dirty that they just have a patina because you put wax and oil on a pair of pants. Even living in a logging Town not a lot of people know what tin pants are. But I did get recognized by one old-time logger. I had to explain to him that they weren't real tin pants though.
EXCELLENT VID!!! Thank you for your time and dedication...The research and demo's of the materials and techniques are top shelf....all proven and shown in your laboratory/workshop...Again Brother great job on answering SO many of the questions ...and providing examples of how and why...Yeah they are not cheap...but what you have shared is priceless...Said with much respect and appreciation....Godspeed to you and your family...Be safe...Much Respect from St Petersburg Florida....
Good video very informitive, ive made some tin clothes,hat, vest , pants, but I didnt have avalable all the ingreediants, so I just started throwing stuff together, parifin, beewax,hubbard shoe greese,deer tallow,saddle soap trying to remember all. Any how kept melting then cooling and adding until I got something that seem to work ,I went heavy on the wax and used heat and elbow greese to work it in the fabric took a long time. But like you say the wax was a little crumbly when they got real cold. So resently I boughg some out back oil dressing and worked it into the cloth and wow what a differnce the oil in the out back dressing keeps the wax softer so far and flexable, im so happy.
I tried this formula and Otter Wax on Carhartt hats recently to see which one I wanted to use for Carhartt pants. We had a pretty good thunderstorm with heavy rain tonight so I tried the two hats out to see which was better in the rain. Hands down, The Lone Woodman's formula was better than the Otter Wax, the Otter Wax was not horrible but water did get through, The Lone Woodman's formula did not let any water through and I was in the rain longer with his formula.
im very satisfied with the depth you put into this. i really enjoyed this video and all of your information. i will be sure to make myself a pair of tin pants right away
vid ended up being very informative but I had to actively keep myself from changing or skipping through the vid for the first five mins. but thanks so much for the work put into these pants and sharing them with us. good job
I will likely not do this to a pair of mine, but I do know the correct and SAFE method to accomplish the job. It has been very interesting to listen and watch you work. Very professional. Thank you.
Hey dude, ignore all these suckers putting you down, they just want a quick 3 minute job. I watched your video from start to finish, the whole 31:21 and it was amazing. Just showed how much effort it took you too. I learnt a ton so massive respect to you. Have you tested petroleum jelly? I hear that's a really great thing to use.
@Respectable Man Ikr, too bad it's impossible to speed up or skip through parts of youtube videos, really big oversight that you have to watch the entire video in real time imo
I have huge respect for the fact you share so much time and effort so freely. God bless you mate, and I'll get back to you once I've tested your theories
Excellent explanations of materials! In the old days, this kind of treatment was commonly used on tent & sale canvas...which was...hemp, not cotton, for longevity of the cloth.
This has to be the most interesting thing I've seen on TH-cam in like 10 years. Good luck buddy; you are awesome. This kind of experimentation is the sort of thing I would do, but you have just saved me so much time. People like you are what makes the human race so great - someone who acquires and shares knowledge so that as a group we can progress beyond where we are.
The fabric would be highly flammable until all the spirit has dried out, so keep well away from fires for the first couple of weeks. After that, the lack of air in the fibers will make the pants more fire and ember resistant than untreated fabric
I bought some bulk paraffin candles from the thrift shop and waxed a pair of fleece lined pants from Costco. Put the wax in a soup can, then in a pot of water on the stove. After brushing everything on, I went to the heat gun. The heat gun was taking too much time to impregnate the cotton, so I set the oven to warm, and popped them on a cookie sheet. After a few minutes, and a couple flips, they were evenly coated. Way faster than the heat gun. I'll take note of how long it lasts, then try your method when they need another coat. Excellent video, and I admire you dedication to the research and implementation of it.
I just bought those Costco pants and was thinking about doing the same after watching this video. How did it work out for you? Did the fleece absorb the wax and get uncomfortable ? Way to go for it!
@@adamblackman6660 That was my concern also, but the fleece is still soft. If anything it might have lost a bit of it's loft/volume, but it's still very comfortable.
Awesome video! I was actually looking into doing this after seeing how much these type of pants cost in LA. I’m often in the woods with my military buddies doing some primitive camping and things, these wood save us a ton of scrapes and cuts. I appreciate your educational advice. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for doing all the work to make this video! I've got an old canvas barn coat and a pair of pants I wanted to turn into tin cloth so I can stay dry and not get constantly snagged while cutting down blackberries later this coming winter. I didn't want to use linseed oil because it's so combustible while curing, and because it's so prone to mildew here in the rainy Pacific Northwest. Using an iron to redistribute the wax further into the fibers would probably work, with a piece of baker's parchment between the iron and the garment to keep it clean. Or at least I'll try that. Looks like I have a project for this coming weekend, if these things are going to be ready by the time I need them Thanks again!
I've been looking for an alternative to the turpentine-based oilcloth mixtures for a while. If I were doing a test to design an elixir, I would do exactly what you did here. I was really stuck on thinking that materials like beeswax and good clean sap were going to be my choices, but they are poor for uniformity. Also, I was very disappointed the Greenland wax from Fjallraven, it does not work. The other choices could be the original Ducksback wax used in Australian oilskin jackets or Filson's tin pants or oiled canvas construction tarp or even double duck tent canvas (which is already totally treated for all the desireable properties). Good work.
I'm going to have to turn my old park service bushwhacker pants into tin pants now. Btw, your methodology, thought process, shop set-up and attention to your craft are so similar to that of my own its almost kinda wierd to watch. Thanks for the recipe! p.s. I love that you pinned Josh's comment. He's probably off in TiTok land forgetting his short term memory.
+Hoosier Morel Picker Hi Hoosier, no the wax did not soak through the flannel. The inside is dry and soft. I think there are a couple layers of flannel, so the layer closest to the wax may have some wax soaked into it but the layer next to the skin is dry and soft. Good question. Any other questions, just ask. Take care!
Great video. I'm planning to make a water proof tarp from a painter's tarp and you convinced me on exactly what products to use in the waterproofing treatment . Thanks.
I just listened to a prior video about using silicone caulking plus mineral spirits to waterproof old cotton sheets to make a tarp. Can use varying amounts of solvent i (ie less if you want to paint on a bag or knapsack or tent(?)). th-cam.com/video/z_R0gEDZhAI/w-d-xo.html
This is the best go through of the tin process I've seen so far. It has a concerning point of consistency when laying on and even distribution. Just shy of a five gallon kettle dip, and then an old school washing roll press to extrude the excess, can you think of a better way to lay on the tin in a more efficient way? Otherwise, go with this if you are doing one or two pair of pants, and maybe an apron for the shop.
I’m a retired timber faller 40 years Pacific Northwest, se Alaska always wore Filson Tin their motto “ might as well have the best “ hard days work , full combat as only a timber faller would know relax with your tin hung by the wood stove and a glass of turkey and settle down with your Woolies on and enjoy the rest of the evening
roger that! se alaska is the acid test of any outdoor gear you can make, break or buy...filsons products are hard to beat.. i still have the last pair i bought working out on the ABCs...that's been 18 years ago
My dad used to rig spar trees and cut his and snitch his logs for building log road bridges. Started 1938 was a road builder in Philippines ww2 also...
coyo7e Cool, just stop driving a car, turn off all the electronics in your house that are powered off of the mostly oil fed grid, stop using concrete, plastic, formed metal, and anything else that you don't harvest with your own hands and then chime back in when your request isn't totally hypocritical. Besides that, I don't live in the inner city. If someone is close enough to smell one burning paper towel with some linseed oil on it then they're trespassing on a Marine war veterans Texas property and they have much MUCH bigger problems then the air quality.
Kay Kay Omg wait... THE CHILDREN!!! lol. I love how people just assume that their ideological opponent is evil, inhuman and incapable of caring for others. The media has really done the people of this nation a disservice stoking that sort of thinking. Yeah, I don't know any of us that really like that phrase. I usually respond with "do you vote for individual liberties or bigger government?" and more often than not the response is just a look of slightly worried confusion, which is fine because it means they're actually thinking about the meaning of the words they just said, so I just laugh to break the tension. From you I know it comes from a place of mutual understanding though. Thank you for standing with me, and likewise I hope every day for you sees personal growth and fulfilling relationships. You're right, it's important for us all to remember that were still here and we still have each others backs. It may be all too important in the coming years. These are odd times.
Kay Kay Yeah, perhaps odd is a bit misapplied here. I meant more along the lines of disheveled. The Overton window lacks a common, unifying enemy, and as a consequence too many bloodthirsty eyes are cast toward kin. The wolves who are always at the gate are as restless as ever, and too many wear sheepskin and skulk amongst us. There certainly is much that is cyclical but I often ponder about the fate of the "strong men make good times, good times make weak men etc etc" cycle in the face of modern peace, welfare, and technologically induced prosperity. We're also coming into a unique economic era. For centuries the undisputed winner of the contest to bring the most people out of poverty has been mostly free market capitalism with robust anti-trust and monopoly busting laws in place, but what will come of meritocracy in an age where employers see their most valuable employee as the one who needs to be automated out of a job first because they also cost the most and represent the largest fiscal gain of eliminating any one employee. I mean, we have the supercomputer A.I. "Watson" making doctors with decades worth of experience look like toddlers with clipboards when it comes to diagnosing rare disease. I'm pretty sure its running a few businesses too, and I could expound endlessly but I think I've vomited enough words to describe the nuance that I meant to be in the word odd. Haha, yeah the spark for this thread increasingly cracks me up. I wonder if she knows that California pretty much burns to the ground every handful of decades. I mean, she has to right? It just happened.
yep if you have a fire pit great option if not use a small metal coffee can in the drive way and allowing them to dry outside on a clothes line for a few days then hang them in a garage for the rest of the time not in a basement with a hot water heater and clothes drier
Dear Lone Woodman--I jsut wanted you to know that I followed your process exactly as you describe in your video, only I did this to a brand new Carrhart "firm duck" coat. Your formula of wax and chemicals not only works better, it also looks better. Once the coating cured, I also took a kitchen torch and "antiqued" the fabric. I did so on a lark, but the effect was incredible. I get compliments on the coat all the time. Your video is really helpful, your process is easy to follow and the results are truly excellent. Happy New Year.
Stumbled upon a rare opportunity. Hundreds of light poles (aka telephone poles) are being changed out in my area. The crew boss has given me all of them. First thing I noticed when cutting the poles was the creosote saturated saw dust not wanting to cone out and ruining my jeans. Have two pairs of canvas pants. This is definitely the answer. Wish the waiting period was over. Thanks. Subscribed
Fantastic video, thanks for taking the time to perfect a recipe so we all don’t have to and allowing those interested to follow your lead. I have been doing a lot of research and there is no question to me at least, yours is the best. I may try the one suggestion of thinning it further and spraying it as I have some physical needs, this would make it a bit easier for me. But thanks again, now I know my Filson gear is so expensive, I love it, it’s lifetime gear and I feel great wearing it, now I can try my own. I also want to make some tin field bags with my antique industrial Singer, so at the same time as doing my bib coveralls, I will wax a couple sheets of cotton for future projects. Well done!
I've watched this a few times over the years and always forgot to save it to my watch later list - done this time though. Great job! I need to make a pair next year so this is my tutorial video.
He was showing how you can do all daily wood working/lumber jack tasks in these "new and improved tin pants" an also doing a filed stress test at the same time.
If you scroll down just a tad... a philosophical argument has erupted involving paper towels. It's worth the read. Then go for a walk, you need to relax.
Fantastic tutorial. I’m doing this to a couple of carhartt jackets when the ingredients come in. Seeing your vid and one other guys I’m thankful I went with your recipe of tung oil and microcrystalline and not bees wax and linseed oil.
Thanks for doing all that research and taking the time to record. This is very informative. I really appreciate all the work it took and your willingness to freely share all that effort!
Stumbled across this looking for durable work wear around the shop. My shop is a bit different being I work on cars (hobbyist), but my jeans just don't last like they should these days. Been hearing about tin pants from some of the other channels I watch and ran across your video... I might just have to get some canvas pants and give this a shot. Your methodical approach and research line up with how I do my decision making and it's great being able to see someone else who looks at things from my perspective. Thanks for the video!
This has to be the most boring thing I've seen on TH-cam in like 10 years good luck buddy you suck
Thanks Josh
Really? 🤔!
Yet you watched it and commented?
I never understood why someone would watch something they did not like, just to put a negative comment. Just watch something else you enjoy.
@@smf2691
I know right! His mum "sucks" and she's extremely popular! 😲
this has got to be the most not-boring thing on youtube in like 10 years, thanks buddy! these pants rock!
Yeah that other comment was just mean thankfully you were more kern to smart back at that other mean comment like this is useful info kinda slow but non the less it was made in good spirits I think anyways
Jeez what are you watching / smoking @budman5297
@BoopBoop88 His comment was posted a year before and is only 30 (+/- a few) ahead. The video is fantastic, in my opinion. If you're a city slicker, then maybe go fondle the other guys' huevos.
@@MeepMeep88Not anymore 😂
LOL! Nice!
His recipe 15:02:
16oz Microcrystalline Wax
2oz Pure Tung Oil
6oz Tung Oil Finish
8 oz Mineral Spirits
Add Microcrystalline Wax to Double boiler (179•f melting point)
Prewarm pants in dryer
In separate container Mix mineral spirits and Tung oil with tung oil finish
Any touched surface is flammable until product cures, (smell will be gone), from days to weeks be careful.
Once wax is melted add solution and let heat back up. Remove from heat but leave water in under pan to keep it warm. Stir occasionally to prevent separating.
Paint it on like you mean it, you can scrape extra off later but heat gun will most likely spread it all out and help it absorb.
Hang up to dry. Will take 2-4 weeks to dry.
After dry use heat gun (as blow drier will not get hot enough). Melt in any excessive wax. Use dry brush to move to any dry spots.
Take bondo scraper, and help all fibers to evenly float in the wax
Repeat as needed
I need subtitles to understand so thanks!
This recipe for ounces, oz, is the weight, not fluid volume of the contents.
Good day all. I have used this method now for a while. The best by far! Increased the varnish a bit to aid drying and seems to be a bit of a better result. In the UK I used Liberon finishing oil from Amazon. Just completed some "tin pants" using Carhartt Double Duck pants. These are very tough and very thick. Highly recommend for logging and abrasive ground work. One pair I have just done the front double section and the pants wash well on a cool cycle. Just re-wax, with the cold remains of the solution every 10 - 15 washes. I have also re-waxed some older Filson pieces with the wax mix and makes for a much better "Tin Cloth". Another great use for this wax is sealing the welt on custom boots. I have some Franks and JK boots that I have run this wax around the base of the boot and has made them super water proof. Many many uses. Great video Lone Woodmen! Many thanks..
Thanks Toby! That is some good information that I'm sure a lot of viewers will find helpful. Thank you for sharing, take care!
@@TheLoneWoodman
Did you ever use heavy blue denim
jeans? Blue jeans used to come
with the denier weight on the tag.
Do you leave your oilcloth out
for at least a week?
@TheLoneWoodman brother can you help me, I suffered a stroke 1 year ago. And for the life of me I can't follow the directions here. I remember using yiur video before my stroke no problem. Can you tell me exactly how much of what you used please. This is really really embarrassing I feel like a child.
16oz microcrystalline wax
2oz pure tung oil
6oz tung oil finish
8oz mineral spirits
@@chris5957look at the comment below yours
Thanks for the research, time, energy, and the sacrifice you made to give to us this incredible information. This has value beyond the way you applied this mixture. It can be used for even partial coatings for specific functions. Water proof, wind proof, and tear proof or at the least abrasion resistant! The implications of this product is not only limitless, but the money saving value is phenomenal. Took this recipe down and it will be put to use as soon as possible. Great job!!!
Years on, this is still the very best you could ask for when it comes to tin cloth options for absolute ruggedness. I run a commercial mix from RM Williams for a more oiled, flexible option at times but this, this is just out and out the most bomb proof tin cloth solution you could ask for.
Thanks from Australia!
Hey mate, what RM Williams mix do you use? I'm in Melbourne and want to try tinning a pair of Levis. Thanks in advance.
@@honkyvanwildebeest8926 Woah, sorry. I don't have notifications on as it turns out. RM Williams used to sell various re-proofers but seem to have discontinued the line.
I believe they were just re-branded Halley Stevensons re-proofers / waxing products.
That's what I was thinking, Sir. A bit more or less of one or the other ingredients. Thank you for your input and continued success my friend from across the big pond. It's nice to have a starting place and someone who pioneered the way. 5000 heads can usually perfect almost anything. It's an awesome community. God bless you Sir.
Thanks for this, the best how-to video on tin pants I've found.
I tried a similar recipe: microcrystalline wax, tung oil and mineral spirits (2:1:1). No tung oil finish because I couldn't source it in Scotland (incidentally, the oiled tin pants fabric used by Filson is made in Scotland, it's called waxed cotton here). This gives a tough fabric, probably too much for "leisure" waxed garments.
I've waxed a pair of Carhartt B01 pants and a Carhartt Duck Active Jac J131, the one with the polyester lining. I dried them in an ordinary oven on the lowest setting for about 45 minutes, placing the garment on a piece of cardboard and taking care that the garment didn't touch the oven sides and risk getting stained. (check your oven setting to make sure it's not too hot, otherwise its dangerous)
When applying the mixture, it's wise to do this on a warm day, the liquid turns sludge quite quickly. I have used an electric slow cooker to melt and mix the ingredients, but be warned, despite your best efforts, the wax gets everywhere.
Yes, a heat gun is essential, but I'd warn about using it near the zipper, even if the teeth are metal; the zipper backing is polyester, which easily melts and then ruins the zipper function. I have, however, successfully used the heat gun on the jacket without damaging the lining by keeping the jacket firmly zipped up. I removed the hood drawstring. I took extra care not to direct the heat gun on to the cuffs or waistband, a piece of wood can be used as a shield.
I found you could return to remelt the wax to penetrate and smooth the fabric at any time during the curing period which I found to be about three weeks. This smoothing process I found the be the most labor intensive. I used small pieces of foam sheet to evenly spread the wax before it cooled. They clog up with wax after a few minutes, so several are useful. Any left over wax mixture can be cooled and stored in an airtight jar and used for used for other projects, like proofing leather boots, but I'd be very wary of using a heat gun near leather, it can easily damage the leather.
Lastly, any left over tung oil is best stored in containers without air in them (the oil cures by oxidation). Either fill to the top in glass jars, or add glass marbles to excuse the air from a partly filled jar. Best wishes.
thats some good advice with the marbles, I dont think I would have ever thought of that on my own.
awesome reply and helpfull thanks
♥
Same I’ve never heard of the marble trick definitely added to the noggin
Hey guys the marbles or stainless steel balls work good in my brew growler that way it don't go flat when I have less of a growler
I used more spirit to make the mixture thinner and applied it with a spray gun. The mixture soaked deeper into the fabric, making it water repellent right through. That way, even if water penetrates the surface, their is no fabric to get soggy underneath.
With the speed of the spray gun, neither the mixture or the pants cooled, so not needing to use a heat gun, the whole process took about 5 minutes. I believe that is the same method used by the manufacturers of pre treated clothing.
I also diluted the remaining mixture still further for use to retreat and top up the coating when required at a later date. .
I worked with microcrystalline wax doing lost wax casting for jewelry when I was in college. You want to use extremely good ventilation. Breathing the vapors from the microcrysalline can cause brain and nerve damage over prolonged exposure. I won't go into the details here, but it caused a very fine artist to have to give up his art because he lost fine motor controls in his hands and it affected his vision as well.
Thanks good to know.
Always a good thing to look up the Safety Data Sheet on anything you work with. Prolonged skin exposure to any of these ingredients would be good to research as well.
good to know. too much chemicals can be hazardous. i my case i would use natural terpene, bee wax and linseed oil.
Mark Fritch
That is one of the many reasons I use an even mixture of paraffin and bees wax with walnut oil... ALL NATURAL!
I don’t even use commercially available Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) due to the chemical driers used in it. (The “chemical driers” are a mixture that causes the seeming drying action of the oil to happen much quicker, but it isn’t drying of course it is a chemical oxidation process, and for most people the oxidation process happening in ten days is fast enough...why add dangerous chemicals when there is no need, remember, these pants will be against your skin for 6 to 18 hours a day any day you wear them). In fact my mixture is food safe...
And again, there are three drying oils, Linseed, walnut, tung, so there are choices to be had; and you can always buy raw Linseed oil (no driers) if you really want to use linseed...
This was a great vid, lots of info.
Mark Fritch
Is that just the case in melting
Or simply handling it
You did an EXCELLENT job of explaining complex concepts and making them understandable. This is a gift. I am a professor and know a good one when I see one....
k but his explanation of intramolecular forces, polarity, hydrophobicity ect, read like a simple wikipedia article and in many places is just wrong or goes off on tangents that have little to do with the fundamental difference between waxes.... its like something that was written by an AI chat bot...
I’ve been making a waterproof from bees wax, turpentine & mineral oil. I still have some from the last batch. I like your scientific approach. This is my new recipe for an oilskin coat & tin pants.
This video was a lifesaver! I’ve searched for the past three days for some solid info on the best wax for pants. All I could find was your standard video repeating what others have said, or someone painting their pants with acrylic. Thank you!!!
Also, I did come across one other cool video. Take a mason jar. Fill it 3/4 with mineral spirits, fill the other 1/4 with pure silicone (from a literal caulking gun). Shake it till it’s all mixed. Apply it to your pants. Then let the mineral spirits evaporate. Now you have a permanent silicone infused cloth that’s 100% waterproof. Probably wouldn’t be as breathable as wax though.
I have no idea how this video ended up in my suggested list, but I started watching it and found it fascinating, and oddly comforting. Comforting, because my father was an avid woodworker, and it reminded me of him. Thank you!
What the he'll is a woodwork? A logger not a lumberjack. No blue ox !
I found myself thinking if I was in Alaska working as a logger that these would be great. As an IT specialist in Las Vegas not so much.
You may want to consider using a hard rubber Ink Roller during the application process. Pressure under the roller would force the mix into the fibers and it should help to levelize the wax mix, reducing the amount of scraping afterward.
Excellent idea
The use of the forced air heat gun would do a better job of pushing the wax completely through and being absorbed surface to surface
Using a much larger pot and dipping would solve all of this and have the added advantage of filling the pockets. ✌️
Or a metal roller, no need for rubber since the material is already supple
@@johnmckeag1048isn’t that what he did at 23:30
Enjoyed your presentation and the extended time you put into the subject. I have had several hunting vest, pants, jackets and bird vest handed down to me overtime. Many have been Folsom products none of which I paid for. They were gifts from friends and family. Those garments lasted many years. During my tours in Vietnam I asked my Mom to send bees wax for the same purpose. It didn’t last long. However during the monsoons it helped keep my thighs somewhat comfortable. Aside from some negative comments everyone who spends time in the outdoors needs cost effective clothing that works and is durable. At 75 I still enjoy hunting in winter for game. Packing into the backcountry and other beneficial activities in cold wet weather. I greatly appreciate your sharing this information. I will be using your system soon. Sergeant of Marines. 100% Disabled Combat Veteran. USMC. SEMPER FIDELIS
Thank you for your service , sir .
I make candles as a side gig, so I do a LOT with wax mixes. With the oil/micro mix you have, you basically have created a very high-density/low-density mixture. I think actually mixing a bit of paraffin in would help bridge the gap and add a medium-density wax to the mixture. This would help fill in any gaps between your densities. It would be an interesting experiment, at the very least.
Also, with the heat gun method, I can't imagine that the drying agents in the finishing oil survived the heat required to melt the MS wax - the "wetness" left was almost certainly the higher-density oils and waxes that simply needed to cool and set. I don't see any reason why you couldn't use a heat gun to fully finish the pants in one-go... but, again, worth a test.
I love this. Could you do a follow up as to how they held up?
This is exactly what I’ve been hoping for for years now. Hope everything is ok… ?
Something you may want to do that your pants would benefit from is putting them in a body length pillowcase and putting several washcloths in the pillowcase with the pants then sewing it shut. Then putting that in another body length pillowcase sew it closed as well and run it through two or three high heat dry cycles in a dryer. This will even out the waterproofing and get rid of all the extra waterproofing that isn't doing anything but keeping the pants tacky to the touch.
I do this with tarps, ground cloths and most leather & canvas pouches I make. Great video my friend and thanks for the wax upgrade idea that's awesome info. God Bless Brother an Keep On Keep'in On!
Oh I should tell you this as well. Make sure an adjust the pants in the pillowcases about every 40 minutes or so. This will just even out the waterproofing even more. Also every dryer is different so open the pillowcases between each cycle and check the progress, also you may need to change out the rags if they're full of waterproofing. These things will just depend on how much extra waterproofing was on the pants or whatever item you were waterproofing
Thanks Billy, that sounds like an interesting idea!
This IS an Interesting thought..... but I do have concerns that my wife would be seriously pissed off if I tried that with HER clothes drier! Lolol
michael paulissen This is a job for laundromat!
I would also apply the first coat with more tongue oil and more turpentine and less wax let it dry for a few days or a few hours so its no longer dripping then apply some heat to evaporate some of the turpentine then apply the mix already used to get a stronger molecular bond with the fabric as I suspect the wax is not really bonding with the fabric on a molecular level at all but the tongue oil would bond with the cotton adding a very small amount of a weak acid will help bond to the fabric I suspect vinegar and alcohol will do well 1 fl ounce of 91 mixed with one 1/4 fl ounce of vinegar then dump that into the turpentine for the first batch of treatment
the benefit I am seeking to gain is when its close to time redue the pants you will still have more water proofing even as allot of the treatment is flaking off
18:24 I just realized that this is probably the correct way to pour from these kind of containers. I have always done it opposite of this and usually spill all over the place. Never stop learning.
Haha me too! He did that and I said, "huh, no shit?"
Thought the same thing. Never too old to learn 😃
Nice video, good to know how this process is done.
An alternative way to make your clothes more durable is to mix 1 part wood glue to 4 parts water, then soak your pants with it in a large bowl. Ring the pants out then hang them to dry.
Makes the pants about twice as durable. And you can wash them in the washing machine when they get dirty.
This process leaves the fabric breathable, so you can use it in the summer.
Check it out, it is awesome.
I'd love some more info on this idea for some wood shop bibs, but I'm not able to find any. Do you have any links to articles or videos that might be helpful?
@@mikerobertson5919 I don't know of any articles. I did it as a experiment to try to make my military uniform last longer and stay stiff. Back in the days of BDU uniforms (jungle pattern) keeping your uniform "wrinkle free" we starched and ironed our uniform to make it like cardboard. Seems kinda crazy now. I was a mechanic, why should my clothes be stiff like cardboard?
The glue works great 👍. The fabric is much tougher with the glue. But after washing and drying several times there are a few big wrinkle marks from the washer and dryer mechanical action.
@@jasonneugebauer5310 Awesome, thanks for the info, buddy
Back in the early 1970's I was stationed at NAS Cubi Point in the Philippines. Like a lot of sailors I bought a motorcycle to get around and eventually joined a motorcycle club there. Some of our members were into motocross racing, which was a lot of fun. One of my club members (Bob Davis) was complaining about how his feet were getting wet during the races (it was the beginning of the rainy season). I told him that I could waterproof his boots for him if he would give them to me. I ended up using a heat gun and a block of beeswax. I melted the beeswax and applied it to the boots after I had heated the boots with the heat gun. I did this over and over and worked the leather until it would not absorb the wax any more. After the next race Bob wanted to know what I had done to keep his feet dry in spite of all the mud and water he had to go through. Bob was a good friend and was worth the work that I did for him. This video reminded me of the good times that I had with him. In 2019 his family and friends lost Bob due to cancer, he is missed by all that knew him. Our club was know as "The New Breed" and you would be hard put to find a better group men.
Subscribed! Anyone who even attempts to go through the process of making his own tin pants has to be subscribed to. Well done.
Thank you for taking the time to share your research and techniques. It is obvious that significant effort went into this project and it is very good of you to share it with the world.
My grandfather(I'm 73) used beeswax,tallow,linseed oil,mohogany bark and I don't know what else but his canvas sails lasted forever
therealnightwriter no its not real, the pants were just regular pants with wax on them!
flagged for misleading title
Hindu Goat They're called tin pants because they're waterproof and wear a long time. Bulletproof, you might say...
@@hindugoat2302
Pants with wax on them are called Tin Pants. Idiot...
Steven Courcy not tin, not bulletproof, just wax pants
if its not tin, do not call it tin... thats not my fault
Hindu Goat do you think Koala Bears are bears? Jellyfish made of jello? Starfish are fish, made of stars? Don't be ignorant.
Working outside in all weather i need a work jacket that was not only wind proof, it had to be waterproof. Knowing only a little of waxes that could be used to create various candles i need something more flexible. That gave me the idea of Coconut oil. Mixing close to equal parts of: Bees wax, Coconut oil seemed the way to go. Now my work jacket is wind and water proof. In a double-boiler melting both bees wax & coconut oil while stirring together, then applying it to cloth, allowing it to cool to room temperature proved to be very effective. This method also means there are no toxic ingredients used.
Got a new coat, and am going to do this to my old canvas coat (after some thorough cleaning). Really great breakdown of each part, and why you chose them!
On linseed oil, I love double boiled linseed for wood handtools. I know there's better, but I like the smell of it, and I like the way it makes the wood feel in my hands. Tung oil though has always been a favorite of mine as well though. It's very versatile. From furniture, rifle stocks, hand tools, and as you have shown, cloths!
Sir, great video and instruction WITH your reasons why, perfect. I used a similar beeswax (no tung oil,) in the UK for aprroximatey 40yrs and I am still using the original jacket and coat, this mixture was for waterproofing, and enjoying mild, but wet weather . I have now been living in North Ohio. Not necessarily enjoying the very much colder weather. My original UK wax coat and jacket would crack the wax in the cold. So that's when I searched for a solution and EVENTUALLY, found you and your recipe which is perfect for cold weather flexibility, and better anti tear / anti penetration properties for rough forest use. For a short term test of your recipie I got some cheap lined jean's, and after 5 years they have become my goto hard work stay safe and dry pants (to clean: i turn them inside out, apply a light coating to lining dawn/water solution, let soak 15mins, then use a gentle setting on power washer ) so thank you again. In June 2022 I am going back to UK to and I will be skippering a narrowboat, which means I am out side, in ll weathers and I will be wearing my waxed coats and pant . Thanks again for you time and effort to share your knowledge. Best regards Colin, PS I have since waxed (your recipe) carhartt jacket and pants, and an older knock off carhartt for really horrible jobs.
This was fantastic. You might be the only person i've seen that has taken a scientific approach to this, and I appreciate that. I hope you might consider making a leather conditioner or something of that nature with the same scientific mind. Thank you for the fantastic video.
Thanks for doing all that grunt work for us; appreciate it! Used to wonder myself what was the reasoning behind using beeswax + linseed oil and why no one has done an in-depth analysis of the pros & cons of the various agents and/or their combinations employed to make diy oilskin pants & jackets. Very well made and informative video!
So what you have is an improvement on the old Waxed Oilcloth from back in the 1800's. Which is what the old slickers aka Raincoat, that the cowboys wore. And also the canvas tarps used in their bedrolls. 👍
Did the oil in the oil cloth dry out and have to be reapplied?
No way, I’m neither a Scientist nor a researcher and yet I also discovered that Pure Tung Oil is superior to Linseed and I use it on my axe handles. I also wondered why Linseed Oil was so prolific and came to the same conclusion. Great informative video sir.
30:00 This was the big question I had. I want to make camping gear for my husband to take the grandkids out and start teaching them bushcraft. The last thing I wanted was to encourage everything I love in this world to sleep inside a flammable fabric shelter. This test put my mind at ease. I'll still run my own tests to find the real world limits, but this looks promising.
Fantastic video. Deeply appreciated.
Glad someone finally made a quality video about this! I have been looking for these answers for quite a while. Thank you. I will be trying this soon.
Cool! Let us know how yours turn out!
I appreciate what you did here! Thanks! Just earlier today I was asking my father-in-law his advice on how to wax my Carhartt J140 coat!
This is some nearly forgotten knowledge that more people should and need to learn. In the very least to be able to appreciate it for themselves! I know that there's still a big crowd of folks that depend on clothing of this type. Not as much as in olden times, but still there are. Such as people that live in colder climates or have a job that actually puts them at risk.
So I thank you and applaud your scientific approach/work!
Best regards!
Wow I so appreciate you sharing your time and energy spent researching this and then kind enough to share your knowledge gained. What a nice genuine person you are.
I saw this video years ago. and I knew I was going to need it one day. I’ve spent hours trying to find this video and I’m so glad I found it. Because this video is such a gem!
This was a pretty solid video with a great process. I think if I were to try it, I would take bakers parchment paper and coat that. Once setup, you can turn them face down and use a dry iron to get a transfer to the cloth. That will help you get a consistent film thickness and probably be cleaner. Also, fibers do not impregnate, they only take coatings. Fibers are twisted into yarns that make up the woven cloth. Getting those yarns to fully wick the mixture is closer to what actually happens here and probably why I would use a dry iron/transfer approach.
I’m not even going to make these pants and I still loved the video.. scientific approach, no hokey nonsense you are way better then most keep up the great work!
Thank you Art! I appreciate that greatly! Take care, friend!
This is an excellent video and really interesting for those of us interested in the granularity of how the waxes perform. Thank you for your video and the explanation of your decision making process. I'm excited to do this myself and hope you'll post updates in the future!
Thank you for your exploration of waxes and your detailed recipe. This is exactly what I was looking for. Very nicely done!
You are welcome, John. I'm glad you found it helpful! Thank you, and take care!
I make tin pants with pure tung oil and microcrystalline wan only . I make them in July when it’s hot out so because the tung oil cures faster that way and it cures in about a month and I don’t have to use chemicals like turpentine and other drying agents doing it this way . I cote it heavy and rub it in the fabric then use a heat gun and scrape of the excess. Then I take them to the laundry mat where they have a dryer for work only put it in for an hour, then I take then home hang them up and let it cure for a month in my shed when the weather is hot and then they are ready to wear .
This was soooo great. I did a riding duster and I wish I had watched this first. 1) it showed me the product that was sold to me was not quite the the caliber you're making, 2). I could have done a much better technique to spread out on the cloth and 3) I missed the scraping after 3 weeks and mine was really patchy. Hopefully I can go back and fix this. Finally you are right, not only is the purchase premade product sub par and expensive, the labor intensive process is as well. So glad I found you. Thanks so much! You're awesome!
Hello there. I really appreciate your showing 'the boss', who is supervising your every move, making sure you do things in a right manner, and of course, also to remind you, "HEY! FEED ME!!!". Yes, I, to, had a supervisor for nearly 18 years, but mine was a 'Ginger' tabby. Then time caught-up to him. I really miss Winston doing his best to keep me in line... sigh.
Like the videos.
Thank you, Michel, my supervisor keeps an eye on things in every project I do! Thank you for sharing about Winston, I'm sure his good help is greatly missed. Hopefully you are able to get another boss around to keep things in order again. It sure makes things more enjoyable. Thanks again, Michel. Take care, friend!
Lots of qualified bosses waiting at the unemployment shelter for someone to come save their life...
(I live in a city that only allows three animals per household, we have our three but I’ll be getting another half dozen when I relocate to my offgrid property in three years when I retire...if you want your projects to come out just right, you need lots of supervisors).
Say Michael, my buddy and I are were reading the comments here. He reminded me of his wife control. She says what I'm going to do. She makes strong suggestions
I can get the last word in.... Yes dear!
Loved the video! I can tell that you’ve done your research, and know the subject well! You also explained the science in a way that was really understandable. It’s awesome whenever someone uses science to improve their hobby, or whatever field their interested in. Keep up the good work!
I wonder how well these pants have held up through the years. This video was incredibly informative and well made.
Your recipe and process was exceptional. I am glad to find out what tin pants actually constitute and what they are used to protect the wearer from. I might actually try my hand at making a pair. Thanks for your very careful research to find the best ingredients. I totally approve of your work.
What a great video. I followed your recipe and made myself some. I used Carhartt double fronts and after a year I am thoroughly impressed. For the cost savings that Filson tin pants would cost these are just great. These are not a summer type pants I found out. But in the colder seasons there about my favorite pants to wear.
Thank you.
Suggestion: if you make these pants you will have to explain to people that they are not dirty that they just have a patina because you put wax and oil on a pair of pants. Even living in a logging Town not a lot of people know what tin pants are. But I did get recognized by one old-time logger. I had to explain to him that they weren't real tin pants though.
I'd buy Filston's but I like the utility of the Carhart B11's. I just going have to try your recipe. Thanks for your strong work.
Consider key brand, they have great insulated products
EXCELLENT VID!!! Thank you for your time and dedication...The research and demo's of the materials and techniques are top shelf....all proven and shown in your laboratory/workshop...Again Brother great job on answering SO many of the questions ...and providing examples of how and why...Yeah they are not cheap...but what you have shared is priceless...Said with much respect and appreciation....Godspeed to you and your family...Be safe...Much Respect from St Petersburg Florida....
I like Tung oil and beeswax because of high humidity in my area and the antimicrobial property of beeswax. I like to use this on my shoes as well.
Do you have to use a good boot dryer? Seems like they'd get swampy if you're feet started to sweat.
very true here in the pacific northwest
Good video very informitive, ive made some tin clothes,hat, vest , pants, but I didnt have avalable all the ingreediants, so I just started throwing stuff together, parifin, beewax,hubbard shoe greese,deer tallow,saddle soap trying to remember all. Any how kept melting then cooling and adding until I got something that seem to work ,I went heavy on the wax and used heat and elbow greese to work it in the fabric took a long time. But like you say the wax was a little crumbly when they got real cold. So resently I boughg some out back oil dressing and worked it into the cloth and wow what a differnce the oil in the out back dressing keeps the wax softer so far and flexable, im so happy.
I tried this formula and Otter Wax on Carhartt hats recently to see which one I wanted to use for Carhartt pants. We had a pretty good thunderstorm with heavy rain tonight so I tried the two hats out to see which was better in the rain. Hands down, The Lone Woodman's formula was better than the Otter Wax, the Otter Wax was not horrible but water did get through, The Lone Woodman's formula did not let any water through and I was in the rain longer with his formula.
Extremely informative! Thank you so much for all the research! I will definitely be making a few pairs and soon!
im very satisfied with the depth you put into this. i really enjoyed this video and all of your information. i will be sure to make myself a pair of tin pants right away
vid ended up being very informative but I had to actively keep myself from changing or skipping through the vid for the first five mins. but thanks so much for the work put into these pants and sharing them with us. good job
This is very informative and scientific. your seriousness about safety is admirable. 10/10
I will likely not do this to a pair of mine, but I do know the correct and SAFE method to accomplish the job. It has been very interesting to listen and watch you work. Very professional. Thank you.
Making The Tin Pants Starts @ 14:05
Thank you sir!
I tried it.
Put it on my carhart canvas jacket.
Friggin Awsome👍🏻
Nice!!!
ReiMonCoH I'm doin it
I might try it on mine too
@@h0lystrike855 nah. He mentions in the vid that you wouldn't want to wear these in summer because they AREN'T breathable.
Thanks for sharing your experience, that's exactly what I'm researching waterproofing materials for.
I have ZERO use for tin pants, yet watched every minute. I learned something new today. Thanks!
Thank you, I shall try your recipe.
Very thorough. Your work, which was significant, will save me (and others) hours & hours of time.
Hey dude, ignore all these suckers putting you down, they just want a quick 3 minute job. I watched your video from start to finish, the whole 31:21 and it was amazing. Just showed how much effort it took you too. I learnt a ton so massive respect to you.
Have you tested petroleum jelly? I hear that's a really great thing to use.
Just thinking you could have used a little glitter.
Jason Thomas
ROTFLMAOAPMP
(Rolling On The Floor Laughing My Ass Off And Pissed My Pants)
@@Rick_Sanchez_C137_ I hope they're tin pants, buddy.
Man glitter - sawdust and/or metal filings.
Aaawww man. Now I have to put glitter I mine.
@Respectable Man Ikr, too bad it's impossible to speed up or skip through parts of youtube videos, really big oversight that you have to watch the entire video in real time imo
I have huge respect for the fact you share so much time and effort so freely. God bless you mate, and I'll get back to you once I've tested your theories
Howd it go
You kept showing the pier over the pond. Kinda hoped you'd jump in. Good job on the video and the project.
I KNOW RIGHT? LOL! Good one! Great video !
So was anticipating that as well. Water proofing proof right there. Excellent video
LOL I was thinking the same thing. I was like ok at any moment now he's gonna go flying off that dock hahahaha!!!
I'm glad I wasn't the only one waiting for this!
me too
Excellent explanations of materials! In the old days, this kind of treatment was commonly used on tent & sale canvas...which was...hemp, not cotton, for longevity of the cloth.
Should be ranked as one of the best educative contents on youtube
This has to be the most interesting thing I've seen on TH-cam in like 10 years. Good luck buddy; you are awesome.
This kind of experimentation is the sort of thing I would do, but you have just saved me so much time. People like you are what makes the human race so great - someone who acquires and shares knowledge so that as a group we can progress beyond where we are.
Very good instructions! I was worried about standing around a campfire until you showed the torch results. Think this would work on leather boots?
The fabric would be highly flammable until all the spirit has dried out, so keep well away from fires for the first couple of weeks.
After that, the lack of air in the fibers will make the pants more fire and ember resistant than untreated fabric
I bought some bulk paraffin candles from the thrift shop and waxed a pair of fleece lined pants from Costco. Put the wax in a soup can, then in a pot of water on the stove. After brushing everything on, I went to the heat gun. The heat gun was taking too much time to impregnate the cotton, so I set the oven to warm, and popped them on a cookie sheet. After a few minutes, and a couple flips, they were evenly coated. Way faster than the heat gun. I'll take note of how long it lasts, then try your method when they need another coat. Excellent video, and I admire you dedication to the research and implementation of it.
I just bought those Costco pants and was thinking about doing the same after watching this video. How did it work out for you? Did the fleece absorb the wax and get uncomfortable ? Way to go for it!
@@adamblackman6660 That was my concern also, but the fleece is still soft. If anything it might have lost a bit of it's loft/volume, but it's still very comfortable.
Thanks Eugene. I'll be getting rolling on that soon. For 19 bucks, those pants were a deal, so might as well make good with them.
Awesome video!
I was actually looking into doing this after seeing how much these type of pants cost in LA.
I’m often in the woods with my military buddies doing some primitive camping and things, these wood save us a ton of scrapes and cuts. I appreciate your educational advice. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for doing all the work to make this video! I've got an old canvas barn coat and a pair of pants I wanted to turn into tin cloth so I can stay dry and not get constantly snagged while cutting down blackberries later this coming winter. I didn't want to use linseed oil because it's so combustible while curing, and because it's so prone to mildew here in the rainy Pacific Northwest.
Using an iron to redistribute the wax further into the fibers would probably work, with a piece of baker's parchment between the iron and the garment to keep it clean. Or at least I'll try that.
Looks like I have a project for this coming weekend, if these things are going to be ready by the time I need them Thanks again!
I've been looking for an alternative to the turpentine-based oilcloth mixtures for a while. If I were doing a test to design an elixir, I would do exactly what you did here. I was really stuck on thinking that materials like beeswax and good clean sap were going to be my choices, but they are poor for uniformity. Also, I was very disappointed the Greenland wax from Fjallraven, it does not work. The other choices could be the original Ducksback wax used in Australian oilskin jackets or Filson's tin pants or oiled canvas construction tarp or even double duck tent canvas (which is already totally treated for all the desireable properties). Good work.
I'm going to have to turn my old park service bushwhacker pants into tin pants now. Btw, your methodology, thought process, shop set-up and attention to your craft are so similar to that of my own its almost kinda wierd to watch. Thanks for the recipe!
p.s. I love that you pinned Josh's comment. He's probably off in TiTok land forgetting his short term memory.
In your wears, did your legs feel waxy . Did the solution soak through the flannel ?
+Hoosier Morel Picker Hi Hoosier, no the wax did not soak through the flannel. The inside is dry and soft. I think there are a couple layers of flannel, so the layer closest to the wax may have some wax soaked into it but the layer next to the skin is dry and soft. Good question. Any other questions, just ask. Take care!
Excellent !
Hoosier Morel Picker 6
Also, once cured, it should be dry. I would wear a wicking long John under them, warmer in Winter. My immersion concept.may be unrealistic.
The Lone woodman, I do renovations. how much longer life do you expect to get out of them, ?
Great video. I'm planning to make a water proof tarp from a painter's tarp and you convinced me on exactly what products to use in the waterproofing treatment . Thanks.
I just listened to a prior video about using silicone caulking plus mineral spirits to waterproof old cotton sheets to make a tarp. Can use varying amounts of solvent i (ie less if you want to paint on a bag or knapsack or tent(?)). th-cam.com/video/z_R0gEDZhAI/w-d-xo.html
This is the best go through of the tin process I've seen so far. It has a concerning point of consistency when laying on and even distribution. Just shy of a five gallon kettle dip, and then an old school washing roll press to extrude the excess, can you think of a better way to lay on the tin in a more efficient way? Otherwise, go with this if you are doing one or two pair of pants, and maybe an apron for the shop.
I’m a retired timber faller 40 years Pacific Northwest, se Alaska always wore Filson Tin their motto “ might as well have the best “ hard days work , full combat as only a timber faller would know relax with your tin hung by the wood stove and a glass of turkey and settle down with your Woolies on and enjoy the rest of the evening
roger that! se alaska is the acid test of any outdoor gear you can make, break or buy...filsons products are hard to beat.. i still have the last pair i bought working out on the ABCs...that's been 18 years ago
My dad used to rig spar trees and cut his and snitch his logs for building log road bridges. Started 1938 was a road builder in Philippines ww2 also...
Man! You are grizzled!
NEVER GIVE AN INCH !!!!
@Witchytoe I priced a Filson's macinah, $400! Not.
I just go ahead and burn oiled paper towels when I finish a project. No need for that threat to persist at all.
Good idea -why not let everybody breath a little bit, instead!?
coyo7e Cool, just stop driving a car, turn off all the electronics in your house that are powered off of the mostly oil fed grid, stop using concrete, plastic, formed metal, and anything else that you don't harvest with your own hands and then chime back in when your request isn't totally hypocritical.
Besides that, I don't live in the inner city. If someone is close enough to smell one burning paper towel with some linseed oil on it then they're trespassing on a Marine war veterans Texas property and they have much MUCH bigger problems then the air quality.
Kay Kay
Omg wait... THE CHILDREN!!! lol. I love how people just assume that their ideological opponent is evil, inhuman and incapable of caring for others. The media has really done the people of this nation a disservice stoking that sort of thinking.
Yeah, I don't know any of us that really like that phrase. I usually respond with "do you vote for individual liberties or bigger government?" and more often than not the response is just a look of slightly worried confusion, which is fine because it means they're actually thinking about the meaning of the words they just said, so I just laugh to break the tension.
From you I know it comes from a place of mutual understanding though.
Thank you for standing with me, and likewise I hope every day for you sees personal growth and fulfilling relationships.
You're right, it's important for us all to remember that were still here and we still have each others backs. It may be all too important in the coming years. These are odd times.
Kay Kay Yeah, perhaps odd is a bit misapplied here. I meant more along the lines of disheveled. The Overton window lacks a common, unifying enemy, and as a consequence too many bloodthirsty eyes are cast toward kin. The wolves who are always at the gate are as restless as ever, and too many wear sheepskin and skulk amongst us. There certainly is much that is cyclical but I often ponder about the fate of the "strong men make good times, good times make weak men etc etc" cycle in the face of modern peace, welfare, and technologically induced prosperity. We're also coming into a unique economic era. For centuries the undisputed winner of the contest to bring the most people out of poverty has been mostly free market capitalism with robust anti-trust and monopoly busting laws in place, but what will come of meritocracy in an age where employers see their most valuable employee as the one who needs to be automated out of a job first because they also cost the most and represent the largest fiscal gain of eliminating any one employee. I mean, we have the supercomputer A.I. "Watson" making doctors with decades worth of experience look like toddlers with clipboards when it comes to diagnosing rare disease. I'm pretty sure its running a few businesses too, and I could expound endlessly but I think I've vomited enough words to describe the nuance that I meant to be in the word odd.
Haha, yeah the spark for this thread increasingly cracks me up.
I wonder if she knows that California pretty much burns to the ground every handful of decades. I mean, she has to right? It just happened.
yep if you have a fire pit great option if not use a small metal coffee can in the drive way and allowing them to dry outside on a clothes line for a few days then hang them in a garage for the rest of the time not in a basement with a hot water heater and clothes drier
Dang, we just nerd’d out on wax & oil ✊🏾Nice!
Dear Lone Woodman--I jsut wanted you to know that I followed your process exactly as you describe in your video, only I did this to a brand new Carrhart "firm duck" coat. Your formula of wax and chemicals not only works better, it also looks better. Once the coating cured, I also took a kitchen torch and "antiqued" the fabric. I did so on a lark, but the effect was incredible. I get compliments on the coat all the time. Your video is really helpful, your process is easy to follow and the results are truly excellent. Happy New Year.
Stumbled upon a rare opportunity. Hundreds of light poles (aka telephone poles) are being changed out in my area. The crew boss has given me all of them. First thing I noticed when cutting the poles was the creosote saturated saw dust not wanting to cone out and ruining my jeans. Have two pairs of canvas pants. This is definitely the answer. Wish the waiting period was over. Thanks. Subscribed
28:19 "They're real durable...Oops, I'm scratching it!"
Lol. Good job on these pants, thanks for showing this process.
Very good video. What is the brand of trousers you used? Think it is worthwhile adding in the description.
Andrew Stuart Ingham Dickies
15:44- "So essentially what we've got is 16 ounces of rocket fuel and 16 ounces of Arson's Accelerant."
Fantastic video, thanks for taking the time to perfect a recipe so we all don’t have to and allowing those interested to follow your lead. I have been doing a lot of research and there is no question to me at least, yours is the best. I may try the one suggestion of thinning it further and spraying it as I have some physical needs, this would make it a bit easier for me. But thanks again, now I know my Filson gear is so expensive, I love it, it’s lifetime gear and I feel great wearing it, now I can try my own. I also want to make some tin field bags with my antique industrial Singer, so at the same time as doing my bib coveralls, I will wax a couple sheets of cotton for future projects. Well done!
I've watched this a few times over the years and always forgot to save it to my watch later list - done this time though. Great job! I need to make a pair next year so this is my tutorial video.
I'm 3 and a half minutes in and I'm still just watching a guy on speed cutting logs...
Lol, I was thinking he was going to walk through the pond........nope still bucking up logs SMH
A little patients, Nancy.
Had to play it at 1.5 speed
He was showing how you can do all daily wood working/lumber jack tasks in these "new and improved tin pants" an also doing a filed stress test at the same time.
Thanks from Australia ! I did not know of microcrystalline wax ,or indeed that Tung oil is better for such a job ,Thanks for sharing Bro , peace . :)
You're welcome Justin! Take care!
Lots of "Tin Cloth" style clothes and gear out of Australia, affordable as well.
If you scroll down just a tad... a philosophical argument has erupted involving paper towels. It's worth the read. Then go for a walk, you need to relax.
Thanks!
Thank you, I didn't even pay attention to the rest of the video this was so good.
Thank you
Fantastic tutorial. I’m doing this to a couple of carhartt jackets when the ingredients come in. Seeing your vid and one other guys I’m thankful I went with your recipe of tung oil and microcrystalline and not bees wax and linseed oil.
Interesting research enabling a more informed approach for making waterproofing treatments. Thanks.
Thanks for doing all that research and taking the time to record. This is very informative. I really appreciate all the work it took and your willingness to freely share all that effort!
Stumbled across this looking for durable work wear around the shop. My shop is a bit different being I work on cars (hobbyist), but my jeans just don't last like they should these days. Been hearing about tin pants from some of the other channels I watch and ran across your video... I might just have to get some canvas pants and give this a shot. Your methodical approach and research line up with how I do my decision making and it's great being able to see someone else who looks at things from my perspective. Thanks for the video!
A well done video worthy of a thumbs up and a new subscriber. Cheers
Dito
Never heard of this 'til now, pretty cool stuff and seems like the go-to trick for winter gear. Thanks for taking the time to show this.
I think I'm going to use this recipe to make a good ground cloth for camping after the snow melts this spring. Great Video!
Davy Crockett meets Albert Einstein, wow what a great video thanks for the time you put into making this.
"You can burn down your house..... and that's no fun at all" HAHA, love it!
Thumbs up!
And use hot dry steam for curing.
I don't usually like and comment on a video, but this was a rare gem. On to greatness with you! May the algorithm favor you.