A Recipe I Use: 60%-Beeswax and 40%-Paraffin Wax, no-turps and no linseed oil (it just smells for weeks). Apply to warm canvas when in liquid form. Make sure that any seems get a really good coating of the wax. Use a hair dryer or heat gun to help penetrate the fibres of the canvas. Tip: I like to place the treated canvas bag, hat, etc; into an old clean pillow case then stick it into the dryer for 20 mins. Allow to cool naturally... Works for me. Looks great, Repels liquid and doesn't smell...
Thanks, I didn't understand why would anyone use anything but wax... I'd even be tempted to use beeswax only, but I guess that would crack and shed due to hardness
Yeah I have to say, I a lot of my background is in textiles and design then in to mixed media work and I dont see how you cant use at least some amount of some sort of oil to just stabilize and soften and help carry it into the fibers and just keep the wax from returning to that fully rigid form, especially considering that this process is always used on outerwear and accessories. It is in colder temperatures that wax achieves that undesirable rigidity and the wax can take on that opacity and I have owned low quality waxed garments that you can actually scrape that wax off in cooler weather in which the wax has not properly integrated with the fibers, and an oil is integral for that. It is simple material science. Waxes are incredibly strong, naturally occuring materials that serve to protect tissues in nearly all plants, birds, insects and mammals, that we harvest as a by-product and exploit for its same protective uses, BUT we must first TEMPER IT in order to manipulate it properly. Adding the oils serves to soften that strength just enough to enable us use it as a tool. If we aren't able to do so then it just floats on top of the fibers, which is what we want the water to do, what we want the wax to do is lightly become a part of the fabric, to, kind of "oil stain" it with the wax. But if we use only the wax, the molecules are too large and you are simply just "covering" the fibers in heavy wax. It makes the fabric soo heavy. You should not essentially be dipping candles with your garment. The oil acts as a vehicle. If you dont like the smell of linseed, find another oil? The turpentine is a solvent that can produce finer outcomes often, but I believe in making all of my own materials and organic chemistry is pretty simple when you break it down. Simple thing like potash and lye, those can all be made from things like ashes. Just high alkaline compounds that allow for the proper emulsion and combination of hydro and lipid substrates. We can make anything from scratch!
Hello, David; I know, this is an old video, but! The info is still up-to-date & so is my tip. When you had got the wax & oil mix melted & stirred it was ready to use. No need to wait overnight while it sits up. Just use a paint or chip brush, dip the brush, & brush it on. Give an extra coat to seams, stitching, &so on. Let it cool, dry, & sit up, you could still use the hair dryer if you like. But it is prolly unnecessary as the liquid will seep into the seams just fine. Hopefully helpful. Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
@@pedroclaro7822 , hi. Well, a year has passed but maybe you will see my message. Precisely, the tip is to use the product immediately, as it will penetrate the fabric when warm, without needing to use a hairdryer. That's the magic of it! After applying it to the fabric, you put it away. When using again, heat it up and apply it to the item you want.
I made a batch of this as described, it does work. Our issue is the Turpentine aroma (new can) remained overpowering. After the pack was outside for four days the Turpentine aroma remained unacceptable thus I would not bringing the pack in the house. Placed it in the basement, after few hours there was a strong odor of Turpentine, move it to garage same thing as well; placed it outside. The pack was an old test throw away pack, thus that is what I did threw it out. My next batch I will replace Turpentine with unscented Mineral Oil, and possibly microcrystalline wax (same price as beeswax). This recipe is excellent for natural material, cotton linen and the like, they can easily absorb this mixture. Being as synthetic material cannot absorb as natural fibers does, create a 50/50 mixture of clear 100% Silicone and Mineral Oil. The Mineral Oil is for dispersing the Silicone thus a 50/50-ish mixture will make an acceptable slurry for spreading. Hope all this is helpful.
I made this and painted it straight onto my walking boots. It soaked in really well. I applied it well to the toe end and the tongue. When it solidified I went over my boots with a heat gun on low heat. The real test awaits with my next walk. Thank you for uploading this. After brushing off any excesses you would not know this was on the boots! I will update with results when applying it when melted as I have 👍🏻
This was exceptionally helpful. I just inherited a Filson duffel that was made probably in the 1980's and it's still going strong but I wanted to wax it to ensure it would still be around for me to pass on too. I'm going to "like" this video so I can find it again when I'm ready to get started. Thank you!
Linseed oil has a terrible smell about it. I used it and over time the jacket I had proofed with it, smelled so bad I grew to dislike it. I now use cheap baby oil, which is a pure, slightly scented kind of mineral oil. I got about half a litre of it for £4 (UK). I use about 2 parts wax and 1 part baby oil. Works fine, but you need a good amount of heat from a hair drier while applying it to the waxed jacket. I actually finished off my jacket for five minutes in a hot tumble drier. This was good for getting the wax mix right into the cloth. Take care about this if your jacket contains any man made fibre ( essentially plastic) in its lining or pocket materials. It might do badly if over heated..
listening to you I had a flashback of my Father.....Do as I say not as I do lol. Do this outdoors.. While I do it indoors !! Joking thanks for the great tip. I am going to try this. My waterproofing tip is Bear grease for leather boots. After applying in a liberal coat I then set the boots a foot away from my Wood stove. I usually do 2 coats one coat then after the leather soaks it up do a second lighter coat. I had an inexpensive pair of boots that I treated this way. They were completely water proof for many years after 1 treatment. thanks again brother. Bill ☺
ill definitly be using this on some of my old jeans, i ride a motorcycle to work all winter and this is a great way to avoid buying expensive waterproof pants, might even put some on my motorcycle seat so it doesnt get wet sitting out in the rain
Thompson's Water Seal, clear $10 gallon. Use it on sailcovers, biminis, canvas, leather. Spray on outside. Lasts about a year of constant exposure and adds UV protection. But your wax blend definitely better for leather, canvas, but adds more weight.
I did a video of this method a year or so ago and found it is a great waterproofing method however there is an issue in hot climates. In about 90 degree weather and above the canvas becomes gummy or tacky. So be aware of this issue.
+William Collins (WC Knives) Where I'm at I probably only get a handful of 90 degree days a year, but that's a good thing to note for anyone else that may read this. Thanks for the tip! :-) BTW, love your knives & channel!
as far as projects go, I've used this basic recipe for finishing metal work after forging. get the metal hot but not red, heat the mix to liquid and brush it on. adds a blackened color, sheds water, and helps prevent rust.
The one thing I really dislike about waxed cloth is that it seems to decrease breathability considerably so for things like canvas jackets I started to use professional waterproofers. The one I am happiest with is Collonil Carbon Pro. Before that one I used a few silicone based waterproofers but I wasn’t too happy with them (apparently there are diy recipes out there for those though, BTW). As for waxing canvas, the recipe I learned some years back was 40% paraffin wax, 40% beeswax, and 20% lanolin.
I love when there is a good review like this.Where you took time on it to see what happens not just said I'll let you know some other time,it's very nice!
Kusk bushcraft has a recipe of 7 to 1 Paraffin to Beeswax mixture poured into cupcake cups and used once hardened. This way your not using any flammable liquids and it can be done safely in the kitchen.
I've heard about a recipe involving 2 types of animal fats and beeswax but this one seems easier to tailor your own mixture ratios depending on how thin or thick you want the final product coming out.
I melted beeswax and paraffin. Rubbed over a non-waterproofed green field jacket and then “fused” the wax mixture with a common iron in low. It worked quite fine, it darkened the color a bit and produced a perceivable water beading under light rain. I have only applied it once. This works.
Awesome instruction! Looking forward to trying this on my entire wardrobe, boots, tents... I’m guessing this concoction has a million uses. Would be great for squeaky vehicle door hinges... as a wood sealer... hair pomade...
That’s what I want my artists apron to do - just ket the paint roll off instead of sinking in. I used to paint with wax to make encaustic paintings so I think I will try some of my leftover beeswax with damar resin on it. I guess I’ll try it with a smallmpiec of fabric first to see if I can penetrate the fabric so it won’t crack. Thankyou!
Hi Dave I was doing this fifty years ago. Hey just dip it in/brush the solution all over the object. (Protect interior as needed) It will last even longer, especially stitches and seams will be more waterproof
David, Great recipe seems to work just fine, I was preparing to do something similar with just the linseed oil and turpentine, adding the beeswax looks more durable.............as always i look forward to your videos.......ty for sharing
A second thought about the bear grease method . Those boots were so waterproof I walked through streams with the water over my ankles and my socks were bone dry. it seals seams perfectly. I made sure all seams were coated heavily. My boots were waterproof for over 6 years with one treatment. Hope this helps everyone. Stay safe all Bill.
Thanks for doing this on video, very helpful. I am in the process of making my first batch to waterproof a cotton canvas bag and can't wait to test this out
Thanks this is definitely useful. Paraffin is somewhat toxic and should be avoided when used on clothing and accessories. Because it's cheaper it's better used on tarps or tents. Although i can see why some people would replace it with the turpentine in your recipe because of the smell. You can use saddle soap to to about the same affect in a pinch.
I’m an oil painter n the only thing that breaks that paint down is turp & linseed oil…linseed oil can be used in its place. I also buy an “odorless mineral spirit” that does the same thing, these really all smell like death ☠️ (Well, LsO not so bad & odorless is still killin’ brain cells most likely lol. The reason ppl mix these in though is because as well as being water resistant it makes it stain & fire resistant! Impossible to achieve without some kind of complex chemical. ;)
You don't need the terps or linseed oil. To make it safer and able to be used on your skin and prevent it from deteriorating leather over time use coconut oil and olive oil or vegetable shortening instead. It works just as well and lasts just as long. To help it penetrate and set in better, after applying to your cloth either hit it with a heat gun or use a clothes iron to go over the entire piece. The terps and linseed oil are old technology and not needed in all actuallity. Substituting them will make for a much safer process and end product and make it much more versatile as it will be food safe and safe for use on your skin for chapped lips and dry, ceacked hands and feet.
very cool video, I will be using your recipe to proof horse covers and swags.. hoping to infuse some essential oils into the recipe to repel insects.. should be an interesting experiment, I hope it works!
Hello, As I am trying different formulas I started with a 50/50 beeswax/paraffin. People that do batik like the paraffin because it has a tendency to crack easier allowing the dyes to make a cooler pattern showing where the cracks were. So, the beeswax will supposedly help it from cracking as easy. I've heard people talk about soy wax (discovered in 1991 according to the internet) which has a much lower melting temperature. What I have found is that after initial heating working it around allot and then reheating works some but I have also read that a roller is far superior to the paint brush. I ordered (and am waiting for it to arrive) 7 sheets of teflon (out of China) at 20 inch x 24 inch at 11 bucks and free shipping. This will allow a much more controlled application of heat and I'm excited for it to arrive. The soy wax may be a good way to thin things down but did I hear things correctly when you said the solvents used will partially evaporate after sitting for days? Most are saying to skip the solvents. Best regards, Mike
Great tips Mike! I'd skip the teflon or any chemical nonstick, but I'm working on testing out rollers and plastic scrapers.... lmk if you've found other successful methods since your comment 5 years ago! lol
Well there are higher grades and lower grades of teflon. Basically when teflon is heated too much (nowhere near an iron or melting temp for wax) I think it was phosgene gas was emitted hence the reason not to allow cheap teflon coated cookware to burn on a stove. I use one of those beauty salon devices that melts wax now and it works very well. I have also found that one would be wise to preshrink the canvas before applying the wax. It ends up with a tighter weave and lower weight product. When I took 15oz canvas and did not pre-shrink it was extremely heavy when done. Another tip I learned from working with fiberglass on the rollers. Take a pair of scissors and trim the cotton very close to the cartridge. This works wonders when using a roller (both with wax and fiberglass resin). One can buy fiberglass roller cartridges already with short hairs but why when a good pair of scissors will do the same. Regards, Mike
I did something similar to a pair of jeans I use logging I didn't use the turpentine just the linseed oil I haven't tried them yet that test is coming tomorrow
Thanks for sharing your process and following through with the results and review, also. This type of info is always necessary content and you delivered the lesson with a cool tutorial. Cheers, bro! Blessings and Success to you.
Thanks for the concise and well filmed video! That was great! I was wondering if you could also reduce the beeswax in the turpentine without heat, like you would when creating a matte damar resin varnish for a oil painting, and it could eliminate the need for heat in the process of preparing the wax? I just don't know if it would work with the 2:1 turpentine to wax ratio? Then you could just add the linseed oil once the wax had rendered into the turpentine? Of course it would take a week. I don't know if that males any sense to anyone? I'm a painter/maker, and upon seeing the materials my mind went first to a classical resin varnish.
You can just rub a brick of wax, sno-seal, or otter wax dressing and then heat it. I like to use a mix of beeswax, flaxseed oil, and pine gum turpentine on cloth and wood. Sometimes even leather. Pinetar/birch oil is another option, but I use that more specifically in leather.
Using both pounds by weight and volume (cups) does not work for using the parts formula. You need to measure either by volume only or by weight only for all the ngredients.
oddly enough, a pound (weight) of bees wax is around 15.96 fluid oz. So his measurement of 1/2 lb. of bees wax is around 8 fluid oz. So 8 oz. (1 cup) bees wax: 4 oz (1/2 cup). linseed oil: 4 oz. turpentine (1/2 cup) formula is correct. Basically, 2 parts bees wax to 1 part boiled linseed oil to 1 part turpentine as he stated. However, paraffin wax is different. 1 weight lb. of paraffin wax is 17 fluid. oz. so he would need to use a little bit less than a 0.5 lb of paraffin wax to use the same liquid amount of linseed oil and turpentine. According to Super Formulas Arts & Crafts How to make more than 360 useful products that contain honey and beeswax. by Elaine C. White. There's a section entitled Measuring Beeswax. Here's the excerpt Measuring Beeswax Usually there is a great difference between the liquid volume of an ingredient and its dry weight. This is not true of beeswax. Example: 1 ounce weight of solid beeswax is equal to 1 ounce liquid measurement of melted wax. The following chart can be used to measure beeswax as a solid or as a liquid. Melted beeswax or liquid measure= Solid wax or Dry Weight 1 Tablespoon melted beeswax or liquid measure=1/2 ounce solid wax or dry weight 2 Tablespoons or 1 ounce= 1 ounce 1/4 cup or 4 tablespoons = 2 ounces 1/2 cup or 8 tablespoons= 4 ounces or 1/4 pound 1 cup or 16 tablespoons = 8 ounces or 1/2 pound 2 cups or 16 ounces= 1 pound or 16 ounces The liquid displacement formula Solid beeswax can be measured by displacing liquid. For example, to measure 1 Tablespoon beeswax use the following method. Since 4 tablespoons of liquid equal 1/4 cup, add 3 tablespoons of water to a clear measuring cup. Add lumps of solid wax until the water reaches the 1/4 cup line. Pour off the water. The remaining wax equals 1 tablespoon. Set the wax aside to dry before using it in any formula.
I buy\use Otter Wax 1-Pint Paste (Just drop it in hot water = liquid). Apply & run a hairdryer over it or toss in canvas bag & Pop it in the dryer on high. Cheaper than buying all those ingredients & no time, mixing or mess to make it.
1. Why not just use wax alone? What does adding the two other chemicals add to it/help it? 2. Why not submerge the item (pack) in the liquid instead of letting it solidify and brushing it on?
Boiled linseed oil is a hard drying oil. It forma a protective shell on the cotton fibers. It cracks, though, which is why it's Combined with beeswax. The beeswax fills the voids between the fibers. The turpentine is used as a thinning agent so that the linseed oil and wax deeply penetrate the fibers for a more water resistant fabric. However, turpentine is known to damage fabric which is why mineral spirits are better. "the lone woodman" here on youtubr making the ultimate tin pants. It's the same process. You can always leave out the linseed oil S it can make the jacket excessively stiff. I seriously recommend you watch his video for the exact recipe and ingredients. He uses microcrystalline wax as it's better for this application. Hope that helps.
Steve a guy on YT shows it that way but said it's really hard to get it even when ur painting it on..this video's method looks easier and a little more control.
@@deplorabledixie2834 It's easy. Warm up the garment with a hairdryer, paint the wax on as a liquid and then hang it outside or in a shed while the worst of the smelly vapour evaporates.
@@fatroberto3012 Thank you for the tips..that's a good idea to warm up 1st. I'm thinking of trying organic beeswax from this little family owned beekeeper website, so there's no smell on it..I have a nose like a bloodhound and any kind of bad smells bother me so much.. this website says their beeswax "smells wonderful" ..Im gonna try.. hope it works out.
@@deplorabledixie2834 Yes, beeswax does smell wonderful. But then again, so does turpintine - which I'm pretty sure would overpower the smell of everything else. David's Passage: the odor of the turpentine has me hesitant to do this on my hunting gear. There is so much effort put into odor control while hunting that I don't want to make it all a wasted effort by having my stuff smell like turpentine. How is the smell say 6 months later?
I did a similar process with out the turpentine, but added some peppermint oil (tip from another youtube channel). I painted the mixture into a jacket while is was still warm and in a liquid, waited for it to dry, then went over it with a heat gun.worked fine. Not sure the purpose of the turpentine...why is that part of the ingredients?
I use 1 lb. of bees wax, 1 qt. of boiled linseed oil and one qt. of mineral spirits. heated, mixed and let cool just like you did. It works on canvas, leather and cotton cloth. I have a video on it. Love the channel, keep up the good work and God bless.
thanks dude great video! I just got two boyscout haversacks that im going to use as saddle bags on my dual sport motorcycle and wanted to waterproof them. thanks for the help!
Would this mix work on wool or some other simple fabric? Looking to make a custom cloak for camping trips, and would really like to waterproof it, but I'm on a budget so I can only afford one attempt
this is nice it sheds water. I don't think it would work under sustained raining. What would it do if you submerged the bag in water for a few hours and left a few paper towels in the bottom? Would they stay dry?
Tks for info cotton idea great too I just used sno seal from USA found it in camp shop Cowra nsw Australia on my suede ankle slippers sheepskin and is great waterproof stuff is wax mixed with some oil they suggest heating up leather in front of fire or on car first for good absorbancy then apply it it says not advised on suede and that it makes it darker in colour and it did but works well - I wonder if surfboard wax would work on leather too
Thank you for sharing. Do you make just enough for a batch that's going to all be applied soon after? Or otherwise, how well does the solid block last - for how long - after it's set - does it change its characteristics over time as far as ease of application is concerned? Cheers.
Great video on this subject and I love how you used it and showed how well it worked. I use just the Greenland Wax technique that I did on my channel. I have found this year hunting in knee deep wet grass and rain that I have had to apply 3 coats. I suppose since my legs are moving and brushing up on sage and grass so much it does pretty well. I do need to do my canvas tent and I really like your recipe. How did it smell?
awesome video! It's been awhile since I've seen a video like this from you. These are my favorite! Looking forward to seeing what you have in store next.
David's Passage Not really, just anything DIY or where you're teaching us something new, or a new way to do it. I wish I could be more helpful, but you seem much more of an outdoorsman than myself.
Thank you! But I've always heard that a heat gun is much more efficient for this purpose than a hair dryer. Even so, seems your bag turned out quite well.
Bit late to the party, but over the decades I've used both a Harbor Freight Heat Gun and regular hair blow dryers on occasion to reproof (rewax) wax cotton jackets, and it makes little difference. The heat gun's maybe quicker and more powerful, but could also risk burning if you don't pay attention. I use a fresh sponge to rub in the melted mixture from a double-boiler setup similar to his, removed and replaced for a short time on the heat as needed to keep it fluid.
Let's see if I got this. You said 1/2 pound (beeswax), 4 oz (1/2 cup) boiled linseed oil, half cup turpentine. Are you sure? It looked like you used the same 4 oz (1/2 cup) measuring cup used for the linseed oil, but you filled it only half way with turpentine---which would make it only 2 oz (1/4 cup) of turpentine. Which is it----half cup (4 oz) of turpentine....or, 2oz (1/4 cup) of turpentine? Thanks.
I wouldn't do it this way. At least no for leather. I would have applied the melted wax solution with a paint brush. That's what i do for my pilot leather jacket. Works well. Good video though. And i also prefer beewax to silicone.
You said 2:1:1 wax:turpentine:oil, however you used 8 ounces by weight for the wax and 8 fluid ounces (by volume) for the other two. I'm assuming the ratio should have been by volume all the way through.
Nicw video David. I just jumped onto TH-cam a few minutes ago here in my woodshop and did a search on different uses for parafin waxes. This is one of the types of videos I was looking for. Just picked up 13 boxes of parafin wax today at a price too good to pass it up, Cheers.. Joe O'
i was under the impression that using linseed oil would cause the canvas to deteriorate, which is why oil painters use gesso over the canvas before they paint. is boiled linseed oil different?
Excellent video! I'm using this method for a tarp (lighter coat) and a browse bag (heavier coat). I was wondering if there needs to be any drying or curing time before use? I finished apply a coat to the browse bag about 4 days ago. They're calling for snow and ice tonight, and I'd like to make a day trip tomorrow, and use the browse bag as a ground mat/seat, but don't want to run it by using it prematurely. Any info helps! Thanks.
I would think it should be good 24 hours after you melt it in. the blo cures when exposed to oxygen . the turpentine will evaporate.once it no longer smells like the blo and turp it's good. I haven't used this before,i do plan on trying it in the future though.i hope this helps
Great wizardry, it looks like it works well, but i was wondering if it would be easier or even possible to use a cheap spray bottle and spray the solution on to the item while the mix was still warm and in it liquid state, perhaps giving better saturation and coverage? is this plausible.
+antony bishop When you spray anything, the heat dissipates very quickly due to increased surface area. The wax would not stay liquid if you somehow managed to spray it.
Wondering if you could just use a 1" paint brush and put it on canvas when the mix is still warm and in liquid state, I think it would soak in very well and save time not having to use the hair drier step?
Thanks so much for this. I've been thinking about some DIY attempts at waterproofing and then this vid serendipitously appears over at BCUSA. Curious where you found the recipe and if you experimented with any others?
Thanks for watching. I first started looking into it upon reading a part in Horrace Kephart's book, Camping and Woodcraft. That led me to several different recipes and ideas, and finally I settled on this one in particular.
What purpose does the turpentine serve? Not being snarky, I just want to know. This is very like my furniture polish recipe is why I'm wondering. ;) Thanks!
The turpentine Keeps the mixture softer like a paste so it can be applied much more easily with the brush with a much more thick and even coverage. It also aids mixing/blending of the oil and wax while they are liquified under the heat. The turps then later evaporates away eventually... (hence the smell of turpentine reduces after a few days, as does the smell of linseed oil as it polymerises/ “dries” )
Awesome video bro ! You've got a new subscriber ;) Do you think that instead of the hair dryer we could use an iron ? Or would it be too hot, even if we set it on its lowest temperature ?
Hi David~ Hello from Duluth (: Great video! I am wondering if I can use soy wax in conjunction with beeswax and refined linseed instead of boiled linseed. Also, do you get an odor from the linseed oil or does the turpentine help prevent that?
I am ignorant to waterproofing materials, so does it mean if i use your recipe it will waterproof a bag so that it can't hold water without leaking? I noticed how it repelled water but can it hold water under a little pressure? I figure if it can hold water under its own pressure that it can hold air under a little pressure. I am trying to figure out how to make a cheap and easy bellows that is air tight. Using old jeans and stuff to make the material for it is cheap, but i have to figure out how to make it air tight material. Maybe i am looking on the wrong video for the information i am looking for, but let me know if it will truly waterproof under its own pressure fill up. If it won't work i will need to use latex or something, maybe silicone.
Hi David, what is the procedure for waxing leather (jacket), to my mind it's not as absorbent as cotton fabric, some of my leather jkts seem to have a protective sheen/sealant on them. Is the method any different?
A Recipe I Use:
60%-Beeswax and 40%-Paraffin Wax, no-turps and no linseed oil (it just smells for weeks).
Apply to warm canvas when in liquid form.
Make sure that any seems get a really good coating of the wax.
Use a hair dryer or heat gun to help penetrate the fibres of the canvas.
Tip: I like to place the treated canvas bag, hat, etc; into an old clean pillow case then stick it into the dryer for 20 mins.
Allow to cool naturally...
Works for me. Looks great, Repels liquid and doesn't smell...
Ok thanks..i rlly did not want to have to use that turpentine.
Thanks, I didn't understand why would anyone use anything but wax... I'd even be tempted to use beeswax only, but I guess that would crack and shed due to hardness
It seems the BLO is essential for keeping the fabric and wax supple and properly integrated
@@SuperBardley BLO hardens resulting in the crinkly "tin shirt" effect, its not used in any modern cotton jacket waxes.
Yeah I have to say, I a lot of my background is in textiles and design then in to mixed media work and I dont see how you cant use at least some amount of some sort of oil to just stabilize and soften and help carry it into the fibers and just keep the wax from returning to that fully rigid form, especially considering that this process is always used on outerwear and accessories. It is in colder temperatures that wax achieves that undesirable rigidity and the wax can take on that opacity and I have owned low quality waxed garments that you can actually scrape that wax off in cooler weather in which the wax has not properly integrated with the fibers, and an oil is integral for that. It is simple material science. Waxes are incredibly strong, naturally occuring materials that serve to protect tissues in nearly all plants, birds, insects and mammals, that we harvest as a by-product and exploit for its same protective uses, BUT we must first TEMPER IT in order to manipulate it properly. Adding the oils serves to soften that strength just enough to enable us use it as a tool. If we aren't able to do so then it just floats on top of the fibers, which is what we want the water to do, what we want the wax to do is lightly become a part of the fabric, to, kind of "oil stain" it with the wax. But if we use only the wax, the molecules are too large and you are simply just "covering" the fibers in heavy wax. It makes the fabric soo heavy. You should not essentially be dipping candles with your garment. The oil acts as a vehicle. If you dont like the smell of linseed, find another oil? The turpentine is a solvent that can produce finer outcomes often, but I believe in making all of my own materials and organic chemistry is pretty simple when you break it down. Simple thing like potash and lye, those can all be made from things like ashes. Just high alkaline compounds that allow for the proper emulsion and combination of hydro and lipid substrates. We can make anything from scratch!
Hello, David;
I know, this is an old video, but!
The info is still up-to-date & so is my tip.
When you had got the wax & oil mix melted & stirred it was ready to use.
No need to wait overnight while it sits up.
Just use a paint or chip brush, dip the brush, & brush it on.
Give an extra coat to seams, stitching, &so on.
Let it cool, dry, & sit up, you could still use the hair dryer if you like.
But it is prolly unnecessary as the liquid will seep into the seams just fine.
Hopefully helpful.
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
Yep, great tip. I actually reheat my solution so it will easily penetrate the clothe without having to use a heat gun.
@@alexanderh.5814 then why even let it sit overnight?
Up to date? Darn it, I must’ve updated to the new version of earth. Can’t get this to work now :/
What materials do you use this on ?
@@pedroclaro7822 , hi. Well, a year has passed but maybe you will see my message. Precisely, the tip is to use the product immediately, as it will penetrate the fabric when warm, without needing to use a hairdryer. That's the magic of it! After applying it to the fabric, you put it away. When using again, heat it up and apply it to the item you want.
I made a batch of this as described, it does work. Our issue is the Turpentine aroma (new can) remained overpowering. After the pack was outside for four days the Turpentine aroma remained unacceptable thus I would not bringing the pack in the house. Placed it in the basement, after few hours there was a strong odor of Turpentine, move it to garage same thing as well; placed it outside. The pack was an old test throw away pack, thus that is what I did threw it out.
My next batch I will replace Turpentine with unscented Mineral Oil, and possibly microcrystalline wax (same price as beeswax). This recipe is excellent for natural material, cotton linen and the like, they can easily absorb this mixture. Being as synthetic material cannot absorb as natural fibers does, create a 50/50 mixture of clear 100% Silicone and Mineral Oil. The Mineral Oil is for dispersing the Silicone thus a 50/50-ish mixture will make an acceptable slurry for spreading. Hope all this is helpful.
I made this and painted it straight onto my walking boots. It soaked in really well. I applied it well to the toe end and the tongue. When it solidified I went over my boots with a heat gun on low heat. The real test awaits with my next walk. Thank you for uploading this. After brushing off any excesses you would not know this was on the boots! I will update with results when applying it when melted as I have 👍🏻
Well have you used yet ?
Dang he must have died.
You have a super positive vibe, thanks for sharing and being so upbeat
This was exceptionally helpful. I just inherited a Filson duffel that was made probably in the 1980's and it's still going strong but I wanted to wax it to ensure it would still be around for me to pass on too. I'm going to "like" this video so I can find it again when I'm ready to get started. Thank you!
1980's ... to the 2020's ... that is pretty great. Nice
Did you yet get onto an application in the end, since then?
Linseed oil has a terrible smell about it. I used it and over time the jacket I had proofed with it, smelled so bad I grew to dislike it. I now use cheap baby oil, which is a pure, slightly scented kind of mineral oil. I got about half a litre of it for £4 (UK). I use about 2 parts wax and 1 part baby oil. Works fine, but you need a good amount of heat from a hair drier while applying it to the waxed jacket. I actually finished off my jacket for five minutes in a hot tumble drier. This was good for getting the wax mix right into the cloth. Take care about this if your jacket contains any man made fibre ( essentially plastic) in its lining or pocket materials. It might do badly if over heated..
listening to you I had a flashback of my Father.....Do as I say not as I do lol. Do this outdoors.. While I do it indoors !! Joking thanks for the great tip. I am going to try this. My waterproofing tip is Bear grease for leather boots. After applying in a liberal coat I then set the boots a foot away from my Wood stove. I usually do 2 coats one coat then after the leather soaks it up do a second lighter coat. I had an inexpensive pair of boots that I treated this way. They were completely water proof for many years after 1 treatment. thanks again brother. Bill ☺
+William Haase lol, yeah I hear ya. Wonder if we had the same dad ;-)
ill definitly be using this on some of my old jeans, i ride a motorcycle to work all winter and this is a great way to avoid buying expensive waterproof pants, might even put some on my motorcycle seat so it doesnt get wet sitting out in the rain
Thompson's Water Seal, clear $10 gallon. Use it on sailcovers, biminis, canvas, leather. Spray on outside. Lasts about a year of constant exposure and adds UV protection. But your wax blend definitely better for leather, canvas, but adds more weight.
I did a video of this method a year or so ago and found it is a great waterproofing method however there is an issue in hot climates. In about 90 degree weather and above the canvas becomes gummy or tacky. So be aware of this issue.
+William Collins (WC Knives) Where I'm at I probably only get a handful of 90 degree days a year, but that's a good thing to note for anyone else that may read this. Thanks for the tip! :-) BTW, love your knives & channel!
+David's Passage thanks so much for the support. Yep not a big issue up north but for us in the south could be a issue.
Thank you for that info
+David's Passage awesome video
+William Collins (WC Knives) If that's the case, then you overwaxed and used too few layers and put them on too thick. You have to layer. This is key.
as far as projects go, I've used this basic recipe for finishing metal work after forging. get the metal hot but not red, heat the mix to liquid and brush it on. adds a blackened color, sheds water, and helps prevent rust.
The one thing I really dislike about waxed cloth is that it seems to decrease breathability considerably so for things like canvas jackets I started to use professional waterproofers.
The one I am happiest with is Collonil Carbon Pro. Before that one I used a few silicone based waterproofers but I wasn’t too happy with them (apparently there are diy recipes out there for those though, BTW).
As for waxing canvas, the recipe I learned some years back was 40% paraffin wax, 40% beeswax, and 20% lanolin.
I love when there is a good review like this.Where you took time on it to see what happens not just said I'll let you know some other time,it's very nice!
Kusk bushcraft has a recipe of 7 to 1 Paraffin to Beeswax mixture poured into cupcake cups and used once hardened. This way your not using any flammable liquids and it can be done safely in the kitchen.
I added 1 more ingredient beeswax turpentine linseed oil and cedar oil and it works great for little buggys I use it on canvas tents I built
I use the same recipe with added pure lanolin for leather conditioner cheers for the video
How much did you added
Thank You
I've heard about a recipe involving 2 types of animal fats and beeswax but this one seems easier to tailor your own mixture ratios depending on how thin or thick you want the final product coming out.
I melted beeswax and paraffin. Rubbed over a non-waterproofed green field jacket and then “fused” the wax mixture with a common iron in low. It worked quite fine, it darkened the color a bit and produced a perceivable water beading under light rain.
I have only applied it once. This works.
Omar Lemus how you wash the jacket? For the inside as daily use wear and motorcycle. Thinking paraffin n bees wax
Awesome instruction! Looking forward to trying this on my entire wardrobe, boots, tents... I’m guessing this concoction has a million uses. Would be great for squeaky vehicle door hinges... as a wood sealer... hair pomade...
🤣
You also can try silicone, especially for door hinges.
That’s what I want my artists apron to do - just ket the paint roll off instead of sinking in. I used to paint with wax to make encaustic paintings so I think I will try some of my leftover beeswax with damar resin on it. I guess I’ll try it with a smallmpiec of fabric first to see if I can penetrate the fabric so it won’t crack. Thankyou!
Hi Dave I was doing this fifty years ago. Hey just dip it in/brush the solution all over the object. (Protect interior as needed) It will last even longer, especially stitches and seams will be more waterproof
warm the melting pan first. take it off heat. put in wax, it will melt, then put the pan into boiling water to keep it melted. much faster.
David, Great recipe seems to work just fine, I was preparing to do something similar with just the linseed oil and turpentine, adding the beeswax looks more durable.............as always i look forward to your videos.......ty for sharing
A second thought about the bear grease method . Those boots were so waterproof I walked through streams with the water over my ankles and my socks were bone dry. it seals seams perfectly. I made sure all seams were coated heavily. My boots were waterproof for over 6 years with one treatment. Hope this helps everyone. Stay safe all Bill.
+William Haase Wow! I am going to have to check that stuff out!
Good one !
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for doing this on video, very helpful. I am in the process of making my first batch to waterproof a cotton canvas bag and can't wait to test this out
Thanks this is definitely useful.
Paraffin is somewhat toxic and should be avoided when used on clothing and accessories. Because it's cheaper it's better used on tarps or tents. Although i can see why some people would replace it with the turpentine in your recipe because of the smell. You can use saddle soap to to about the same affect in a pinch.
I’m an oil painter n the only thing that breaks that paint down is turp & linseed oil…linseed oil can be used in its place. I also buy an “odorless mineral spirit” that does the same thing, these really all smell like death ☠️
(Well, LsO not so bad & odorless is still killin’ brain cells most likely lol. The reason ppl mix these in though is because as well as being water resistant it makes it stain & fire resistant! Impossible to achieve without some kind of complex chemical. ;)
This is literally one of the best comment section.... Really helpful
Thank you so much. I just got an Allison pack from a garage sale. Im trying to get it in good shape for this year's adventures.
You don't need the terps or linseed oil. To make it safer and able to be used on your skin and prevent it from deteriorating leather over time use coconut oil and olive oil or vegetable shortening instead. It works just as well and lasts just as long. To help it penetrate and set in better, after applying to your cloth either hit it with a heat gun or use a clothes iron to go over the entire piece. The terps and linseed oil are old technology and not needed in all actuallity. Substituting them will make for a much safer process and end product and make it much more versatile as it will be food safe and safe for use on your skin for chapped lips and dry, ceacked hands and feet.
cool! i think you could ve used a brush while the recipe was still liquid. it would get in real good specially in the seam
For leather I use a mixture of bear and beaver oil mixed with beeswax(if I have it) or petroleum jelly if I don’t have beeswax.
very cool video, I will be using your recipe to proof horse covers and swags.. hoping to infuse some essential oils into the recipe to repel insects.. should be an interesting experiment, I hope it works!
Such a clear explanation, I have been looking animal leather alternatives for a local artisanal project, thank you for this video and the good vibes!
Great video. I'm going to use this method to treat a canvas bag I'm making for a homemade folding bucksaw.
I’ve had good results sno seal with good results and hair dryer but this is an awesome home made deal . I like it dude 👍👍. Thanks
Hello, As I am trying different formulas I started with a 50/50 beeswax/paraffin. People that do batik like the paraffin because it has a tendency to crack easier allowing the dyes to make a cooler pattern showing where the cracks were. So, the beeswax will supposedly help it from cracking as easy. I've heard people talk about soy wax (discovered in 1991 according to the internet) which has a much lower melting temperature. What I have found is that after initial heating working it around allot and then reheating works some but I have also read that a roller is far superior to the paint brush. I ordered (and am waiting for it to arrive) 7 sheets of teflon (out of China) at 20 inch x 24 inch at 11 bucks and free shipping. This will allow a much more controlled application of heat and I'm excited for it to arrive. The soy wax may be a good way to thin things down but did I hear things correctly when you said the solvents used will partially evaporate after sitting for days? Most are saying to skip the solvents. Best regards, Mike
Great tips Mike! I'd skip the teflon or any chemical nonstick, but I'm working on testing out rollers and plastic scrapers.... lmk if you've found other successful methods since your comment 5 years ago! lol
Well there are higher grades and lower grades of teflon. Basically when teflon is heated too much (nowhere near an iron or melting temp for wax) I think it was phosgene gas was emitted hence the reason not to allow cheap teflon coated cookware to burn on a stove. I use one of those beauty salon devices that melts wax now and it works very well. I have also found that one would be wise to preshrink the canvas before applying the wax. It ends up with a tighter weave and lower weight product. When I took 15oz canvas and did not pre-shrink it was extremely heavy when done. Another tip I learned from working with fiberglass on the rollers. Take a pair of scissors and trim the cotton very close to the cartridge. This works wonders when using a roller (both with wax and fiberglass resin). One can buy fiberglass roller cartridges already with short hairs but why when a good pair of scissors will do the same. Regards, Mike
I did something similar to a pair of jeans I use logging I didn't use the turpentine just the linseed oil I haven't tried them yet that test is coming tomorrow
Thanks for sharing your process and following through with the results and review, also. This type of info is always necessary content and you delivered the lesson with a cool tutorial. Cheers, bro! Blessings and Success to you.
Thanks for the concise and well filmed video! That was great! I was wondering if you could also reduce the beeswax in the turpentine without heat, like you would when creating a matte damar resin varnish for a oil painting, and it could eliminate the need for heat in the process of preparing the wax? I just don't know if it would work with the 2:1 turpentine to wax ratio? Then you could just add the linseed oil once the wax had rendered into the turpentine? Of course it would take a week.
I don't know if that males any sense to anyone? I'm a painter/maker, and upon seeing the materials my mind went first to a classical resin varnish.
I am hopeful that this will waterproof my winter horse blankets. Finally. Something that sounds promising. Thx for the vid!
Pine rosin flakes can be used as a substitute for the turpentine.
Aren’t the turps used as a solvent to help the wax and BLO fully combine? Then the VOC’s evaporate off.
You can just rub a brick of wax, sno-seal, or otter wax dressing and then heat it. I like to use a mix of beeswax, flaxseed oil, and pine gum turpentine on cloth and wood. Sometimes even leather. Pinetar/birch oil is another option, but I use that more specifically in leather.
Using both pounds by weight and volume (cups) does not work for using the parts formula. You need to measure either by volume only or by weight only for all the ngredients.
oddly enough, a pound (weight) of bees wax is around 15.96 fluid oz. So his measurement of 1/2 lb. of bees wax is around 8 fluid oz. So 8 oz. (1 cup) bees wax: 4 oz (1/2 cup). linseed oil: 4 oz. turpentine (1/2 cup) formula is correct. Basically, 2 parts bees wax to 1 part boiled linseed oil to 1 part turpentine as he stated. However, paraffin wax is different. 1 weight lb. of paraffin wax is 17 fluid. oz. so he would need to use a little bit less than a 0.5 lb of paraffin wax to use the same liquid amount of linseed oil and turpentine.
According to Super Formulas Arts & Crafts How to make more than 360 useful products that contain honey and beeswax. by Elaine C. White.
There's a section entitled Measuring Beeswax. Here's the excerpt
Measuring Beeswax
Usually there is a great difference between the liquid volume of an ingredient and its dry weight. This is not true of beeswax. Example: 1 ounce weight of solid beeswax is equal to 1 ounce liquid measurement of melted wax. The following chart can be used to measure beeswax as a solid or as a liquid.
Melted beeswax or liquid measure= Solid wax or Dry Weight
1 Tablespoon melted beeswax or liquid measure=1/2 ounce solid wax or dry weight
2 Tablespoons or 1 ounce= 1 ounce
1/4 cup or 4 tablespoons = 2 ounces
1/2 cup or 8 tablespoons= 4 ounces or 1/4 pound
1 cup or 16 tablespoons = 8 ounces or 1/2 pound
2 cups or 16 ounces= 1 pound or 16 ounces
The liquid displacement formula
Solid beeswax can be measured by displacing liquid. For example, to measure 1 Tablespoon beeswax use the following method.
Since 4 tablespoons of liquid equal 1/4 cup, add 3 tablespoons of water to a clear measuring cup. Add lumps of solid wax until the water reaches the 1/4 cup line. Pour off the water. The remaining wax equals 1 tablespoon. Set the wax aside to dry before using it in any formula.
@@patratacusthank you. Good info
I buy\use Otter Wax 1-Pint Paste (Just drop it in hot water = liquid). Apply & run a hairdryer over it or toss in canvas bag & Pop it in the dryer on high. Cheaper than buying all those ingredients & no time, mixing or mess to make it.
I seen one mineral spirits and 100% silicone mixed 1 part silicone to 8 parts naphtha or mineral spirits .
1. Why not just use wax alone? What does adding the two other chemicals add to it/help it?
2. Why not submerge the item (pack) in the liquid instead of letting it solidify and brushing it on?
Boiled linseed oil is a hard drying oil. It forma a protective shell on the cotton fibers. It cracks, though, which is why it's Combined with beeswax. The beeswax fills the voids between the fibers. The turpentine is used as a thinning agent so that the linseed oil and wax deeply penetrate the fibers for a more water resistant fabric. However, turpentine is known to damage fabric which is why mineral spirits are better. "the lone woodman" here on youtubr making the ultimate tin pants. It's the same process. You can always leave out the linseed oil S it can make the jacket excessively stiff. I seriously recommend you watch his video for the exact recipe and ingredients. He uses microcrystalline wax as it's better for this application. Hope that helps.
Could you have taken a paintbrush and applied it while it was still liquified?
Steve a guy on YT shows it that way but said it's really hard to get it even when ur painting it on..this video's method looks easier and a little more control.
@@deplorabledixie2834 It's easy. Warm up the garment with a hairdryer, paint the wax on as a liquid and then hang it outside or in a shed while the worst of the smelly vapour evaporates.
@@fatroberto3012 Thank you for the tips..that's a good idea to warm up 1st. I'm thinking of trying organic beeswax from this little family owned beekeeper website, so there's no smell on it..I have a nose like a bloodhound and any kind of bad smells bother me so much.. this website says their beeswax "smells wonderful" ..Im gonna try.. hope it works out.
@@deplorabledixie2834 Yes, beeswax does smell wonderful. But then again, so does turpintine - which I'm pretty sure would overpower the smell of everything else.
David's Passage: the odor of the turpentine has me hesitant to do this on my hunting gear. There is so much effort put into odor control while hunting that I don't want to make it all a wasted effort by having my stuff smell like turpentine. How is the smell say 6 months later?
I did a similar process with out the turpentine, but added some peppermint oil (tip from another youtube channel). I painted the mixture into a jacket while is was still warm and in a liquid, waited for it to dry, then went over it with a heat gun.worked fine. Not sure the purpose of the turpentine...why is that part of the ingredients?
I use 1 lb. of bees wax, 1 qt. of boiled linseed oil and one qt. of mineral spirits. heated, mixed and let cool just like you did. It works on canvas, leather and cotton cloth. I have a video on it. Love the channel, keep up the good work and God bless.
+RedDogBushCraft Thanks for the tip! Can I ask what the benefit is of using mineral spirits over turpentine are?
Hello can i also use it for artificial fibre like rain jacket (old jack wolfskin) thanks
thanks dude great video! I just got two boyscout haversacks that im going to use as saddle bags on my dual sport motorcycle and wanted to waterproof them. thanks for the help!
Think it work for a denim jacket for bike use? Heavy rain?
Thank you very much for this. I will try it. Looks realy cool and usefull.
Have you tried this on a canvas tent?
Would this mix work on wool or some other simple fabric? Looking to make a custom cloak for camping trips, and would really like to waterproof it, but I'm on a budget so I can only afford one attempt
I'm wondering if you can skip the turpentine. Have you ever tried that?
WOW..COOL VIDEO THANK YOU!!..IT LOOKS SO MUCH EASIER WITH YOUR METHOD THAN THE OTHER ONE ON YT WHERE HE PAINTS THE WET WAX ON THE CLOTH.
this is nice it sheds water. I don't think it would work under sustained raining. What would it do if you submerged the bag in water for a few hours and left a few paper towels in the bottom? Would they stay dry?
Tks for info cotton idea great too I just used sno seal from USA found it in camp shop Cowra nsw Australia on my suede ankle slippers sheepskin and is great waterproof stuff is wax mixed with some oil they suggest heating up leather in front of fire or on car first for good absorbancy then apply it it says not advised on suede and that it makes it darker in colour and it did but works well - I wonder if surfboard wax would work on leather too
There's not much surfing going on here in Michigan, but I would be curious about that as well :-)
Use a similar brew on my boots. Works way better than store bought stuff.
You can use a 100 % flax oil. It won't hold for more than a month or 2. Repels less, breathes more.
Thank you for sharing.
Do you make just enough for a batch that's going to all be applied soon after? Or otherwise, how well does the solid block last - for how long - after it's set - does it change its characteristics over time as far as ease of application is concerned? Cheers.
Great video on this subject and I love how you used it and showed how well it worked. I use just the Greenland Wax technique that I did on my channel. I have found this year hunting in knee deep wet grass and rain that I have had to apply 3 coats. I suppose since my legs are moving and brushing up on sage and grass so much it does pretty well. I do need to do my canvas tent and I really like your recipe. How did it smell?
+Nature Calls After it dries, it doesn't smell much. It has a stronger smell at first that dissipates upon drying.
"Oh that smells really good, I like the smell of turpentine, am I crazy??!" YESSSS!! You are crazy!
awesome video! It's been awhile since I've seen a video like this from you. These are my favorite! Looking forward to seeing what you have in store next.
Thanks! Any requests in particular? :-)
David's Passage Not really, just anything DIY or where you're teaching us something new, or a new way to do it. I wish I could be more helpful, but you seem much more of an outdoorsman than myself.
Grant Butler Stay tuned then. There might just be something that interests you in the future :-)
Thank you! Does the wax cracks at freezing temperatures? Do you think that some sort of fat would prevent this to happen?
Thank you! But I've always heard that a heat gun is much more efficient for this purpose than a hair dryer. Even so, seems your bag turned out quite well.
Bit late to the party, but over the decades I've used both a Harbor Freight Heat Gun and regular hair blow dryers on occasion to reproof (rewax) wax cotton jackets, and it makes little difference. The heat gun's maybe quicker and more powerful, but could also risk burning if you don't pay attention. I use a fresh sponge to rub in the melted mixture from a double-boiler setup similar to his, removed and replaced for a short time on the heat as needed to keep it fluid.
Let's see if I got this. You said 1/2 pound (beeswax), 4 oz (1/2 cup) boiled linseed oil, half cup turpentine. Are you sure? It looked like you used the same 4 oz (1/2 cup) measuring cup used for the linseed oil, but you filled it only half way with turpentine---which would make it only 2 oz (1/4 cup) of turpentine. Which is it----half cup (4 oz) of turpentine....or, 2oz (1/4 cup) of turpentine? Thanks.
Look up Little Dipper and keep your wax there!! Great video. Loved the full disclaimer "5 months later" !!
Turpentine is said to be hard on many fabrics. Mineral spirits or acetone should be a much better choice.
Excellent work, just the video I've been looking for, I recently got a ex army cotton canvas swag bag, need to reproof it. Cheers
I wouldn't do it this way.
At least no for leather.
I would have applied the melted wax solution with a paint brush.
That's what i do for my pilot leather jacket. Works well.
Good video though.
And i also prefer beewax to silicone.
Thanks for info, haven't seen a pace cord in a long time.
I used a cheese grater for the wax worked vary well
Atsko Silicone Water Guard, or Permanent Water Guard + Gore Tex. Job done.
You said 2:1:1 wax:turpentine:oil, however you used 8 ounces by weight for the wax and 8 fluid ounces (by volume) for the other two. I'm assuming the ratio should have been by volume all the way through.
Nicw video David. I just jumped onto TH-cam a few minutes ago here in my woodshop and did a search on different uses for parafin waxes. This is one of the types of videos I was looking for. Just picked up 13 boxes of parafin wax today at a price too good to pass it up,
Cheers.. Joe O'
+Joe O's Channel That's a lot of waterproofing! :-)
+David's Passage Oh, I'll have a few other projects to use it for as well :)
What knife is that? Looks awesome!
i was under the impression that using linseed oil would cause the canvas to deteriorate, which is why oil painters use gesso over the canvas before they paint. is boiled linseed oil different?
bro. if turpentine is not available.. whats the alternative?
Can you waterproof uggs with the wax? Thanks.
Can we use a heat gun further away being very careful?
Excellent video! I'm using this method for a tarp (lighter coat) and a browse bag (heavier coat). I was wondering if there needs to be any drying or curing time before use? I finished apply a coat to the browse bag about 4 days ago. They're calling for snow and ice tonight, and I'd like to make a day trip tomorrow, and use the browse bag as a ground mat/seat, but don't want to run it by using it prematurely. Any info helps! Thanks.
I would think it should be good 24 hours after you melt it in. the blo cures when exposed to oxygen . the turpentine will evaporate.once it no longer smells like the blo and turp it's good. I haven't used this before,i do plan on trying it in the future though.i hope this helps
Great wizardry, it looks like it works well, but i was wondering if it would be easier or even possible to use a cheap spray bottle and spray the solution on to the item while the mix was still warm and in it liquid state, perhaps giving better saturation and coverage? is this plausible.
+antony bishop When you spray anything, the heat dissipates very quickly due to increased surface area. The wax would not stay liquid if you somehow managed to spray it.
+antony bishop You can use a brush instead. ;)
is there any atlernative to turpentine spirit? cant find turpentine here in philippines.
If I put a cotton patch on my canvas bag, can I wax the patch?
Can I wax the cotton mesh on my bag for the bottle holder pocket and strap pocket?
is this safe for backpacking in bear country like California Sequoia or Jasper Canada
I just made a batch of this and it works great but the smell of turpentine is still really strong, any suggestions
Thank you! I used an old crock pot.
Wondering if you could just use a 1" paint brush and put it on canvas when the mix is still warm and in liquid state, I think it would soak in very well and save time not having to use the hair drier step?
Thanks so much for this. I've been thinking about some DIY attempts at waterproofing and then this vid serendipitously appears over at BCUSA. Curious where you found the recipe and if you experimented with any others?
Thanks for watching. I first started looking into it upon reading a part in Horrace Kephart's book, Camping and Woodcraft. That led me to several different recipes and ideas, and finally I settled on this one in particular.
What purpose does the turpentine serve? Not being snarky, I just want to know. This is very like my furniture polish recipe is why I'm wondering. ;) Thanks!
Thanks, A M.
The turpentine Keeps the mixture softer like a paste so it can be applied much more easily with the brush with a much more thick and even coverage. It also aids mixing/blending of the oil and wax while they are liquified under the heat. The turps then later evaporates away eventually... (hence the smell of turpentine reduces after a few days, as does the smell of linseed oil as it polymerises/ “dries” )
Awesome video bro ! You've got a new subscriber ;)
Do you think that instead of the hair dryer we could use an iron ? Or would it be too hot, even if we set it on its lowest temperature ?
Technically you could, but you wouldn't want to iron clothes with it afterward.
Nice vid, can i use this wax for nubuk and suide boot? Tnxxx
Hi David~ Hello from Duluth (: Great video! I am wondering if I can use soy wax in conjunction with beeswax and refined linseed instead of boiled linseed. Also, do you get an odor from the linseed oil or does the turpentine help prevent that?
What type of brush did you use? I don't think I've seen one like that one before....
I was wondering the same thing. Kind of looks like a shoe shine brush
@@bpcardella You are correct, it's known as a dauber and it's from a shoe shine kit, but you can find it in Amazon as well
so is the material still breathable after applying the wax?
Great idea but I have same question as Nature calls concerning how it smells.
+Gary Cloud After it dries, it doesn't smell much. Actually it doesn't smell at all now. It has a stronger smell at first that dissipates upon drying.
I wouldn't use boiled linseed oil if you're worried about smell, that stuff is pretty nasty for a while
Great video. Is there any reason why it should be *boiled* linseed oil as opposed to linseed oil?
Non boiled linseed oil takes months to dry. That's the only difference
@@lukeswain1752 thank you
I need to waterproof a British military over white cotton poncho, will this ruin the white cotton?
I am ignorant to waterproofing materials, so does it mean if i use your recipe it will waterproof a bag so that it can't hold water without leaking? I noticed how it repelled water but can it hold water under a little pressure?
I figure if it can hold water under its own pressure that it can hold air under a little pressure. I am trying to figure out how to make a cheap and easy bellows that is air tight. Using old jeans and stuff to make the material for it is cheap, but i have to figure out how to make it air tight material.
Maybe i am looking on the wrong video for the information i am looking for, but let me know if it will truly waterproof under its own pressure fill up. If it won't work i will need to use latex or something, maybe silicone.
How would this work with polyester? Why can't you just use beeswax?
Hi David, what is the procedure for waxing leather (jacket), to my mind it's not as absorbent as cotton fabric, some of my leather jkts seem to have a protective sheen/sealant on them. Is the method any
different?
Any concern about using the waxed clothing in bear country?