I know it's an older video and don't expect a reply, but wanted to comment for others that stumble across this video. I followed the video and did this to a 20+ year old Carhart that I have always loved, but it was showing it's age so figured while I was doing some mending and repairs I would do this upgrade to it also. The finished product is exactly what I was hoping it to be and I am sure this coat will get another 20 years of use out of it. Thanks for sharing the video and how to do it. Cheers
Courtesy of the Lone Woodsmen's original how-to video and then this one, I followed this process exactly as shown on a brand new Carrhart chore coat. I even copied the "hack" of two pots for the cheap double-boiler and I used the coarse brush. I accidentally had the heat gun on too high of a setting, with the result that once it melted the wax, it also lightly burned the fabric. Now I know that not only is Carrhart fabric incredibly tough, but also that it looks awesome slightly charred! The chore coat is made from "Firm Duck"--adding the "tin cloth" formula turned the coat into armor. I've only worn it twice and I've gotten compliments from strangers. Three people asked me when I bought "the special edition". This process works, and it works very, very well. I have never done anything like this--I only watched videos--and I've already been asked by many family members to make them one. Really awesome.
The Lone Woodsman did an amazing job at showing the how and why on this. He got really scientific about it. Which is why it works. Glad you liked it! That jacket is probably going to last forever now! 👍👍
I have been making tin cloth for about 40 years now, the traditional way, and you executed a crucial step which most amateurs miss. No it wasn't the brush. You will not have to retreat for 2 years of hard, daily use as long as you regularly brush it clean. Great job!
@@johnnymac6242 It will definitely hold up, what I don't know is if the wet mortar would sluff off. I would expect that a newly tinned coat most likely would but as the wax wears away, the wet mortar would impregnate the surface fibers.
What was the crucial step most people miss? I plan to do this to a jacket of mine and I'd like to do it right the first time. I'll follow this video, I'm just curious what the step was that a lot miss :)
Great video. Very professional looking, and personally, I like that it didn't have a lot of talking, and was almost all doing. There's a kind of zen to videos like that.
PhycoKrusk thank you!! That means a lot! And actually I couldn’t agree more. All of my recent videos have been like that. I’ve switched to NO talking. To me it’s just a better/ more interesting way to tell “a story”. 🙂👍
I am glad I found this video. Straight wax is just to much "The Workshop at Hidden Homestead" has a concoction that I'm willing to accept as the real deal. I'm getting this stuff straight away. I have two Carhartt's one is a jacket and the other is the black "arctic" winter coat I have the arctic coveralls to go with the coat. I took a job I will be outside all night. Waterproof Carhartt's will be exactly what I will need for upper Midwest winters. Thank You Mr. The Workshop at Hidden Homestead .
I have a suggestion that you may find helpful during the initial applicating: I find it helps quite a bit to warm the denim with a heat gun (not an iron because they flatten out any nap) so it is just too hot to touch only-not more. Applying your wax solution will be easier. Initial absorbtion will be better especially in thick areas like seams. It will not cool so fast and not cake up your brush as quick either. Rewarm the whole garment when complete and touch up any thin spots. Cheers from Alberta, Canada.
I appreciate that. While I didn’t heat it up with the heat gun I did hang it over the fireplace. That certainly got it warmed up. And you’re right, it was definitely easier to apply than if it were a cold garment.
Would throwing it in the dryer work to heat it up? I’m gonna do this to my old jacket and the new one I just got. I don’t know why I didn’t think of searching this out years ago. I bet treating your canvas jackets like this protect the fabric and help them last a lot longer too.
@@aleksfoxtrot8044 it definitely does make it last much longer. Mine is still in great shape. Normally I only get a few years out of a work jacket but this one is going strong. You certainly could throw it in the drier before you apply the mix. However I’d be careful to do so after the mix was applied if you needed a warm up. The wax could potentially make quite the mess inside the drier after getting the miles around in high heat.
After having used the jacket now with the waxed coating, how do you like it? Seams your method is the most complete and best thought out I’ve seen. I plan to do the same exact thing.
I just recently did a one year follow up video on it and the only negative that I personally found is that it’s stiff once you put it on especially if it had been hanging somewhere cool. But once you wear it for a few minutes it softens up. I can’t take much credit on the recipe though. I found it on here from the lone woodman. He has a long video on it but it’s pretty informational because he goes into the science of why this recipe works so well. Hopefully you love it as much as I do. Let me know what you think of yours once you do it.
Im inspired to try my hand at this now because of this video! I was thinking beeswax only but i like how the oilskin look turned out! Also, great touch on the stiff brush, I never see that on other vids. Im itching to try now on my Carhartt and a few tool bag rolls I have around the house.
Awesome! I’m glad I inspired. 🙂 I think the stuff brush is just a nice touch. It gets rid of any wax that didn’t fully soak in and globs up in the corners and it kind of buffs it all out and gives it a slight sheen. Good luck! Let me know how it turns out.
There's different formulas of crystalline wax. The way yours snapped says it was a harder brittle type, there's softer flexible ones but I am having trouble finding moderate priced ones to ship to my remote area. Great vid thanks man.
Nicely done. While I'm a big fan of turpentine vs. mineral spirits (purely a nostalgic thing), turpentine is difficult if not impossible in many parts of the US. MS is pretty odorless and works perfectly well. Thanks.
Thanks for including the source! Your video was very well made, and very enjoyable; however, it blazes through the process. So many people, made awesome videos like yours, but don't include the source so those of use who want more detail are left high and dry lol. After seeing how well it worked for you, I'm going to be doing this to my Detroit jacket. It'll make a great rain jacket for here in Oregon!
@@TheHiddenHomestead Got my coat all waxed up. Finding adequate pots to make a double boiler turned out to be the hard part ahaha. Now the long wait as it cures! So far, already feels much better than the first time I tinned a coat using premixed wax (otter wax iirc). I've got another old coat that I might do with the remaining mix (placed the extra in a paint can, hopefully the tung oil won't cure).
We've put two coats of Otter Wax on a cotton twill Filson jacket. We did the wax then hair dryer system with each wax application. But the jacket doesn't have a finish on it that looks solid and really like a waxed jacket should. Could we apply this waxed/Tin Oil formula on this jacket and possibly get a better look and feel? If not this application, what can we further do to improve on our jackets feel and appearance? Enjoyed your video immensely. Thanks for any suggestion.
I have the same issue. Used 1bar and a half of Otter Wax on my Carharrt and so far i'm so really convinced I must say. Not only didnt' I get any shine but the jacket feels very sticky/greasy and not sure it has improved the waterproofing at all :-I I intend on trying this method as well. Did you do yours on top of the Otter Wax layer already? Thanx ;-)
That’s awesome... I love that your dog barks at even you when you come through the door, mine does the same thing! All the benefits of your place far outweigh some crappy internet service! Was that a brass brush? Thanks and keep sharing the passion!
The temperature of the air that the heat gun is producing? Sorry I don’t remember what temps that heat gun was capable of. It broke a while back. The best answer I have for that is hot enough to melt the wax. 🤷🏼♂️
I live in California, unfortunately. Mineral spirits are no longer allowed in the Kommi state. What would be a good substitute for mineral spirits instead. Would love to try this. Thanks from Cudahy, Kommifornia.
Mineral spirits?? 🙄 it’s mainly used to thin the tung oil so any thinner. Citrus solvent could be used. I’ve used it with the tung oil as a first coat on wood projects. Make sure to research the one you want to use to make sure it’s a pure citrus oil. Real milk paint (the company that makes the tung oil I used) makes a citrus thinner that works really good.
Thank you for this! I’ve always enjoyed the tin cloth look, just not the price. I’ve watched both videos, and I’ve got a Dri Duck coming that I want to try this on. Question, I’m curious about the wax in the cold. It’ll get -20 where I am, I’m curious if it cracks at that temperature?
Have the same jacket that's a couple years old that looks to be a renewed outdoor rough and ready barn coat. Don't have a barn but lots of outdoor projects here in the pacific northwest. Iove my Carhartts. Thanks for the inspiration.
Hi ! Great video, and appreciate the follow-up as well. I am planning to this to my boat yard-jacket and have a question: most people just use wax (pre-made or a mix of beeswax and styrene). How come you use a mixture of wax and oils? Is it more durable?
Hey! To be honest, I actually copied another TH-camrs recipe so can’t take credit for it. He did a video on the science behind everything and how it all works together. Check out the link for that video in my video’s description. He does an outstanding job explaining the why behind it and it is a better explanation than I would be able to explain it here. That said, yes it is very durable. After my follow up and reapplication video, i’ve not had to do anything with it.
The ending of this video of you walking outside with your pup was awesome. I have the same jacket but didn’t wax it.. best carhartt jacket to work in, in my opinion.
That intro scared the crap outta me, wasn't expecting that...... Especially with how serene the rest of the video is Very helpful to actually see the process in action though One question though, if I plan to do this indoors, say on a surface other people use like a kitchen table, how much do I need to worry about wax seeping through the coat onto the table? Should I put something down over the table or is it not really a concern?
Lol. I don’t believe I got any that seeped through. It does harden back up to a softer wax so you should be able to pick/flick it off the table. That being said, nothing in the ingredients are super toxic but better safe than sorry especially if it’s somewhere you eat. You could put something down just incase. Especially if you dropped or accidentally spilled some.
Thanks! Nothing major really. It’s already a pretty thick jacket so it didn’t breath that great anyway. I usually stay warm enough to where I only have to zip it half way up so that I can get some air movement if needed.
How long do you have to work the mixture from the bowl before it starts to thicken? Im guessing the oils and stuff keep it liquidy for a while. Thanks for sharing this.
You’re right. The oils certainly do help. I had plenty of time to apply and was still able to do so after about 30-45 minutes. After that, just to make it a little easier I did put the mix back on the heat. The heat gun is certainly a must for when it does start to cool because as soon as it comes in contact with the cooler material it does get pretty stiff to move with the brush alone.
Was the jacket the black version or the “shadow” (grey) version? (Just wondering how much it may have lightened the colour.) Absolutely love the result and looking to do the same in preparation for this fall. Thanks!
I have the black , I’ve been using it for work for years & it’s now grey , going to wax it for the first time amongst of canvas garments , you used a lot of oil to d as often the texture of the wax and it still looked fairly Rigged so I suspect I’ll do the same
I LOVE the idea and would like to do this to a new Carhartt jacket I'm planning to buy but how do you clean it if you can't throw it in the washing machine?
You don’t. For me personally it’s a work jacket so I don’t care that it’s dirty. Also, after waxed it doesn’t get THAT dirty. The wax keeps dirt and grime from “soaking” into the fibers.
Jan Barnard nope. I mean really how often does one wash a regular jacket? Not necessarily a work jacket but one that’s only worn for a few hours a week and a few months out of the year. Not to often I imagine. So if I were to use it this way I shouldn’t have to worry to much about an odor. The wax and oil keep things from penetrating into the fabric and it doesn’t get soiled as easily. Therefor things that may produce an off putting aroma doesn’t cling to it as well. Now, because it is a work jacket I do come in contact with many things that could cause something to stink. But after a year and a half of use I’ve not once thought “I shouldn’t be smelled in public with this thing”. Also, my wife has a very keen sense of smell and the jacket stays hung up on the coat rack at the front door. So as of now no it hasn’t gotten stinky and I’m not to concerned that it will.
I 've got a old Filson waxed tin cloth boonie style hat. I've only washed it once because it was cover with soot after burning brush on the farm. Didn't need to re proof it, it's still water repellent.
There’s really not much oil in tung oil finish. At least compared to the amount that the recipe calls for. Also, it’s very expensive. So I wouldn’t recommend using just the tung oil finish. You should be able to find all the ingredients on line. I have a list of them from Amazon in the video description.
Hey. Great video and follow up video. It was very well done. Is it important to buy microcrystalline wax or can you you achieve the same results with other wax? Thanks.
Hey thank you! You can certainly use different waxes. In fact from my understanding most do. What property microcrystalline wax has that some others do not is that it stays pliable which helps the durability by staying flexible with the garment.
It is highly recommended to wait. The true magic for the wax potion to seal properly is from using the first snow of the new moon. If anything else is used in its place you are not only wasting your time but valuable resources as well. My apologies for not mentioning that in the video.
I think mike in the lower comments would have benefited from knowing this lol 😂 thanks for the video. I’m about to order all the components. Dang that tung oil finish Is expensive!
Hahah. Hey you’re welcome! Yeah. For what it is it was already a little on the higher side. I was reading an article or thread somewhere and it talked about the price going up a bit. But didn’t know it had gone up that much. Where did you buy it at?
Did you notice any wax seeping through the canvas and penetrating into the lining? I’ve been considering waxing my own canvas jacket, but read somewhere waxed jackets are usually made with a liner in them that prevents the wax from going all the way through and ending up on your clothes. You notice anything like that? Thanks.
I'm sure I'm way too late to get a reply but I guess there's no harm in trying. Thanks for the awesome video, is there any chance you can share exactly what carrhart jacket you used? I love the look
I try to reply to everyone no matter when you comment! 👍 it is a Carhartt Sherpa lined Sierra. I’ve not looked but have been told that it had been discontinued.
Brilliant video. I would probably attempt a second coat of the wax. I am sure, it would completely seal the jacket, and get to any small points in the jacket missed the first time. I have the perfect Carhartt jacket in mind, to accomplish the same. Two thumbs up...👍☀️👍 You have a new subscriber.
What’s the exact name of the jacket or the code number like j120 or j141 looking for that exact jacket with the top left zip pocket but without the fleece lined? 🇬🇧👌🏻👍🏻
@@TheHiddenHomestead Ohh okay, i know that jacket, it’s just because i couldn’t see the inside of it i thought they made the same jacket but without the sherpa lining, thanks 🤜🏻👌🏻
Great! Thank you. Well that’s a really hard question to answer. It’s hard to answer because different people have different cold/discomfort tolerances. For example I’m one of the “weirdos” that practices the Wim Hoff method in which I take ice baths every morning. Are you just sitting or are you working to produce your own heat? Is it sunny? Windy? Wet? All that being said and to try to answer your question the best that I can: if it’s sunny with no wind and I’m doing some type of moderate activity I can wear this jacket with a long sleeve T-shirt in about 20° weather
When I re-wax my old Barbour jackets with my home made mixture (2 parts wax and one part baby oil) I use the hair drier and rub it into the cloth with a bot of sponge, but also, I give the jacket a short spell (5 minutes) on hot setting in the tumble drier. Don't do more, because that is VERY hot. The jacket once cooled is fit to wear right away and won't smear wax and oil on your car seats, because it has sunk right into the cloth of the jacket.
Yeah - it was a VAST improvement on my first experiment which used linseed oil which stank so badly that i put the jacket against all advice into the washing machine and gave it a hot wash to remove every trace of the foul stuff. My partner had started to refuse to get in the car with me when I had that jacket on!!! :))@@TheHiddenHomestead
Hey you’re welcome! And no problem. I’ve not tried it so I can’t be sure of an exact measurements but possibly if you reduced the amount of wax by 1/4 - 1/3 it should be softer. I would try a few small samples of different amounts though. It may be less durable/rugged with less wax though.
Hey thank you! And you’re certainly welcome. I can’t remember if that one was nylon or a natural bristle. But either way a short stiff bristle brush is what you need.
why did you go with a microcrystalline wax insead of a parrafin, or blend...or even a duck wax from Blended waxes? Just curious. i want to use the best stuff possible. Was it a budget or accessability decision? or is that the best wax for the application?
From my research it’s the best wax for the application. Because it remains flexible at all times. Therefore it won’t get brittle and “flake” off. I mention him in the description but the Lone Woodsman goes into great detail on the science behind why it works so well. Here’s his video on it. th-cam.com/video/dvZczKZfvF4/w-d-xo.html
@@TheHiddenHomestead thanks a million man. This is the exact explanation I was hoping for(nerdy mind). I don't know shit about waxes so it was purely a curiosity question. I appreciate the thorough response. Just found you from this video and am now a follower. Thanks for the content
How long did you wait before using the heat gun? Getting ready to do this myself and have all the supplies. Should I just wait till the wax dries, and if so, how long? Thanks again for the inspiration!
I divided the jacket into sections. Left arm. Right arm. Left front. Hood. Etc. As soon as I applied the wax to a large section I immediately used the heat gun to remelt the wax solution. Once it was all soaked in I moved to the next section or touched up spots that I didn’t feel was saturated enough. And you are welcome!
I found the tung oil finish at Lowes but the tung oil and wax came from Amazon. That said you might be able to find it where you live. Try craft/hobby stores possibly
hey mate, great camera work by the way. Nice angles. I know im a bit late but do I need to use two different tung oils? Can't I just use Pure Tung Oil? Many thanks Roger
Thanks man. It’s not entirely necessary. The “tung oil finish” just gives the mixture drying agents. Without it it will take the pure tung oil a lot longer to cure.
Thank you!! You could. The tung oil finish is used for the drying agents. It speeds up the curing process of the Tung oil itself. You would just have to let it hang for a few weeks to give the oil time to cure out
@@TheHiddenHomestead Thanks for the answer! Drying it out for a few weeks sounds like a pain, maybe turpentine would speed up the process as a replacement for the tung oil finish?
Make your own mixture: 2 parts bees wax and one part baby oil (baby oil in the uk is a mixture of high quality mineral oil and some pleasant smelling scent. Nice and FAR better than my first experiment in which I used linseed oil which smelled terrible. You could put in more oil if the mixture is too hard.. Try it. Costs pennies and far cheaper than buying Barbour wax which is pretty much the same thing I think.
@@Tonyv1951 this is the way to go. Tried it today and it worked like a charm before the blow dryer gave out on me. I recommend using a heat gun as it should be way more efficient. Thanks for the advice!
Hmmm. I’d have to do some research. I use tung oil for a lot of different stuff so that’s my go to. I make a mixture of wax and oil for my metal and use it for any Shou Sugi Ban type project I do. You can find it on Amazon though. That’s where I get it because we don’t have pure tung oil where I live either. Just tung oil finish. Which usually don’t really even have much tung oil in it.
Traditionally, boiled linseed oil was used before Tung oil became more commonly available. There are some particularities with boiled linseed oil tho, I've heard that it's possible for it to simply make the fabric hard and brittle if you do it wrong or use the wrong variety, so look into it further.
Awesome video! I just ordered a new Carhartt in navy blue and am considering waxing my jacket now after watching your video. I wonder how well this would work on their gloves?🤔
Awesome! I’d say pretty good BUT this process does make the material a little stiff. So until they get warmed up and broken in the gloves may feel awkward.
Hello, thanx for the cool video :-) I used some Otter Wax on my Carhartt and I'm not thrilled with the results :-I Super sticky and greasy to the touch and not really water proof. Anyway I intend on trying your method. I would like the jacket to be kind of stiff and with a shinny rugged look. Any of the ingredients I could push to get the results? or just go with the recepe as is? Thanx again ;-)
Looking at the MSDS for most 'tung oil finish' products, looks like they're just tung oil with mineral spirits already. Some seem to be partially polymerized to encourage faster/harder drying (i.e. oxidative polymerization). Some like WATCO's tung oil finish have a "Long Oil Alkyd" added - some sort of resin I guess. Curious why you decided to include this in your recipe? Seems like just tung oil and mineral spirits would do the trick?
So I waxed a nice canvas jacket with household wax by rubbing the block of wax onto the heated canvas. It was then so stiff that it will stand in the corner unassisted. I then painted it with linseed oil and mineral spirits to try and soften it so I can use it in cold weather. It didn’t help much. Any suggestions? Would the tung oil help minus the wax?
Ok thanks for taking the time to answer me. I’ll see if I can figure something else out and if I find anything that helps I’ll shout you a comment. Stay dry. 👍
@@Ridesmule The problem is of course that you only have wax in the fibers. Which would make it very stiff. But like I mentioned, mine is stiff with the tung oil in it. I believe by painting oil on it you are really only painting the surface. It’s not getting into the fibers. My suggestion would be to try and strip the wax out and then use a oil/wax mixture to reapply. Another option is to heat the wax up to its melting point then apply the oil. But I don’t think you will achieve a very consistent result this way.
I'm curious as to why you used a harsh chemical like Mineral Spirits instead of Citrus Solvent (also sold my Real Milk Paint CO). I'm a woodworker and use their Tung Oil and thin it with their Citrus Solvent for furniture finishes. It's potent but natural. Thoughts? Very cool jacket by-the-way!
@@TheHiddenHomestead Right on! One more question: Why use any solvents at all? Couldn’t you go full strength tung oil considering the mixture is being heated? IE… Aside from thinning the tung oil, is there any other benefits to adding a solvent?
@@bradentokoly yeah there are some benefits. The citrus/spirits obviously thin the tung oil which if heating that’s true you may not necessarily need it. I didn’t test direct heat to the tung oil to see how much it does thin it. The tung oil finish is just for the drying agents to help speed up the process.
Nice video. Amazing that this started using waxed sail material, along time ago. You can spend $$$ on "rain gear " that won't keep you as dry as this preparation. Thanks for sharing. What area are you located? Looks very similar to N. Idaho.
Yes I believe it would. Don’t quote me on this but I think traditionally that’s all that was used. The tung oil just helps get the mix deeper impregnating the fibers instead of just the wax “setting” mainly on top.
I mentioned this in the description but while this mix is a great recipe I can’t take credit for it. It is the The Lone Woodman's TIN CLOTH recipe. You can check out his video if you want to know the real science behind. It is longer but for good reason. Packed with great information and why and how it works. here's the link if you're interested. th-cam.com/video/dvZczKZfvF4/w-d-xo.html
@@TheHiddenHomestead The Tung oil is a vital part of the process, it polymerizes and remains in the fabric as a functional part of the waterproofing. The "tin pants" style coating is an outgrowth of the ancient tradition of making oilskins; sailors would treat their sails with boiled linseed oil which would polymerize and make the sails more solid so they wouldn't let air thru, and then when the sails wore out they'd make waterproof garments of the oil-treated cloth.
Has anyone ever tried to use rapeseed wax for this instead of paraffin or bees wax, and knows whether it has the same water repellent qualities? And is the tung oil finish really necessary?
Thanks! It could I guess. But you’d need to be careful if you use a heat gun like I did to melt the wax mixture into the fabric. To much heat could melt the polyester fibers.
I don't think the polyester will absorb the waterproofing mixture. If the cotton has a higher percentage, say 60-40 it could very well work. The cotton will absorb the mixture. If it's not a expensive coat I say go for it. I have two Carhartt's one is a jacket and the other is a black Arctic coat. They both are getting the treatment.
nice video first-time watcher will definitely be doing this to my first Carhartt jacket ill be getting really like the look you went for and that exactly what I wanted what jacket did you use for this video? and locations/sites for the material? thank👍🏽
The jacket is a Sherpa lined Sierra. But someone told me that they discontinued it. I ordered the wax and tung oil from Amazon. And got everything else at Lowe’s.
Hi there. Just found your channel. Just wondering about the ring finishing oil. Did you make that? I can’t find it here. Is there a substitute you could recommend? Thanks
@@rorymcevoy87 I got mine at Lowe’s. If you can’t find it at a local hardware store you can search Amazon. I might even have the amazon link for it in the description.
I’m sure it added some weight but not enough to really notice. A few oz of wax. I considered it but while it’s a little more expensive then beeswax this wax is a better option in my opinion. And linseed oil can go rancid.
Stacie Higgins I haven’t had to retreat it yet. It’s held up pretty well for it being my work jacket. I do have some left over so some time this year I will go ahead and retreat it just to add to it. And thank you!!
Was the amount you mixed together enough to do the entire jacket? I'm going to give it a try but want to make sure I have enough materials for it to get done.
I didn’t. Maybe half to a third on the first go round. A year later I did a follow up video on it and reapplied to see how much more would soak in. So treating an XL hooded jacket twice I still have about 1/2 - 2/3 of a pint jar left.
How do you wash the jacket? I need to do this to my Carhartt jacket since it tends to get a little wet when out in the snow plowing and starts to stink like a wet dog.
I’ve never washed it. Quick spray or brush off and it’s clean...ish. I mean it’s a work jacket so clean enough for me anyway. The dirt just adds character! 😁😁 also, I layer up so it doesn’t smell on the inside. Of course, my base layer/t shirt catches all the funk.
I'm not sure what I did wrong, but my jacket when done was stiff like concrete HAHAHAHA. Have any idea how to remove as much wax out if my jacket. Probably shouldn't of done it on my father's jacket that recently passed.
Thank you. I’ve not washed it. Because it’s a work jacket I don’t care if the outside is dirty really. As for the inside, I’ve worn it for almost two years now and it doesn’t stink. At least no one has told me it does. I keep it hanging by the front door and the wife hasn’t told me to take it to the garage yet. I dress in layers so that keeps most of the sweat and BO from really getting on the inside material.
@@TheHiddenHomestead I recently done this to my Carhartt back in November and love it. I have moved to a more humid environment and my wife complains that the jacket stinks. I’d say it has a smell to it but it doesn’t stink. Has your wife or anyone complained since and if so what have you done to eliminate the smell?
@@Johnszimmerman nope nothing still. I know it has a slight “musk” to it; a combination of dirt, diesel, grease, saw dust, concrete dust, metal, and smoke. A sweet but masculine working man’s fragrance. But no one has told me “man you need to wash that thing. You stink!”
🤔 I can’t think of anything off the top of my head. Technically you probably don’t need the tung oil finish. Tung oil by itself takes a long time to cure. The reason the tung oil finish is used is for the “drying agents”. It helps speed up the curing process of the actual tung oil. If you wanted to set it and forget it for a few weeks you could probably get away with not using it. But don’t get excited and wear it to soon. You’ll potentially get the tung oil on everything else you touch.
Did you do a search for formbys tung oil finish? Don’t know where you are but that’s probably the most popular/readily available in the states. As of an alternative.... the tung oil finish is mainly used for the drying oils and thinners. You could possibly use boiled linseed oil and a little mineral spirits to thin it.
I am about to get the Bartlett and want to do this to my jacket. Can anyone guide me to updated products? Does the brand need to be the same as listed in the video or can I go to my local lowe's?
Awesome! I don’t think it made it much heavier. Im sure a few oz from the weight of the wax. That said, it’s a work jacket so I never took notice or thought about it honestly. I’m a ultra light weight nazi when it comes to hiking though. So in that aspect yes it definitely added weight. Again, probably only a few ounces so take that as you will.
I know it's an older video and don't expect a reply, but wanted to comment for others that stumble across this video. I followed the video and did this to a 20+ year old Carhart that I have always loved, but it was showing it's age so figured while I was doing some mending and repairs I would do this upgrade to it also. The finished product is exactly what I was hoping it to be and I am sure this coat will get another 20 years of use out of it. Thanks for sharing the video and how to do it. Cheers
That’s awesome and great to hear! Thanks for commenting.
La mienne j 141 a 22 ans bientot et ca roule
😊😊l😊
Courtesy of the Lone Woodsmen's original how-to video and then this one, I followed this process exactly as shown on a brand new Carrhart chore coat. I even copied the "hack" of two pots for the cheap double-boiler and I used the coarse brush. I accidentally had the heat gun on too high of a setting, with the result that once it melted the wax, it also lightly burned the fabric. Now I know that not only is Carrhart fabric incredibly tough, but also that it looks awesome slightly charred! The chore coat is made from "Firm Duck"--adding the "tin cloth" formula turned the coat into armor. I've only worn it twice and I've gotten compliments from strangers. Three people asked me when I bought "the special edition". This process works, and it works very, very well. I have never done anything like this--I only watched videos--and I've already been asked by many family members to make them one. Really awesome.
The Lone Woodsman did an amazing job at showing the how and why on this. He got really scientific about it. Which is why it works. Glad you liked it! That jacket is probably going to last forever now! 👍👍
I have been making tin cloth for about 40 years now, the traditional way, and you executed a crucial step which most amateurs miss. No it wasn't the brush. You will not have to retreat for 2 years of hard, daily use as long as you regularly brush it clean. Great job!
Thank you!!
Will tin cloth hold up in a masonry setting with exposure to silicate dusts and wet mortars?
@@johnnymac6242 It will definitely hold up, what I don't know is if the wet mortar would sluff off. I would expect that a newly tinned coat most likely would but as the wax wears away, the wet mortar would impregnate the surface fibers.
@rangervapes571 yes it absolutely destroyed my last carhart and i just got a new one for christmas i havent even worn yet, its too nice to ruin
What was the crucial step most people miss? I plan to do this to a jacket of mine and I'd like to do it right the first time. I'll follow this video, I'm just curious what the step was that a lot miss :)
Great video. Very professional looking, and personally, I like that it didn't have a lot of talking, and was almost all doing. There's a kind of zen to videos like that.
PhycoKrusk thank you!! That means a lot! And actually I couldn’t agree more. All of my recent videos have been like that. I’ve switched to NO talking. To me it’s just a better/ more interesting way to tell “a story”. 🙂👍
I am glad I found this video. Straight wax is just to much "The Workshop at Hidden Homestead" has a concoction that I'm willing to accept as the real deal. I'm getting this stuff straight away. I have two Carhartt's one is a jacket and the other is the black "arctic" winter coat I have the arctic coveralls to go with the coat. I took a job I will be outside all night. Waterproof Carhartt's will be exactly what I will need for upper Midwest winters.
Thank You Mr. The Workshop at Hidden Homestead .
Indeed
It's like asmr for my eyes
I have a suggestion that you may find helpful during the initial applicating: I find it helps quite a bit to warm the denim with a heat gun (not an iron because they flatten out any nap) so it is just too hot to touch only-not more. Applying your wax solution will be easier. Initial absorbtion will be better especially in thick areas like seams. It will not cool so fast and not cake up your brush as quick either. Rewarm the whole garment when complete and touch up any thin spots. Cheers from Alberta, Canada.
I appreciate that. While I didn’t heat it up with the heat gun I did hang it over the fireplace. That certainly got it warmed up. And you’re right, it was definitely easier to apply than if it were a cold garment.
@@TheHiddenHomestead Using the fireplace is a great idea, but alas, this is a feature my house does not have...yet! Cheers.
Would throwing it in the dryer work to heat it up? I’m gonna do this to my old jacket and the new one I just got. I don’t know why I didn’t think of searching this out years ago. I bet treating your canvas jackets like this protect the fabric and help them last a lot longer too.
@@aleksfoxtrot8044 it definitely does make it last much longer. Mine is still in great shape. Normally I only get a few years out of a work jacket but this one is going strong. You certainly could throw it in the drier before you apply the mix. However I’d be careful to do so after the mix was applied if you needed a warm up. The wax could potentially make quite the mess inside the drier after getting the miles around in high heat.
After having used the jacket now with the waxed coating, how do you like it? Seams your method is the most complete and best thought out I’ve seen. I plan to do the same exact thing.
I just recently did a one year follow up video on it and the only negative that I personally found is that it’s stiff once you put it on especially if it had been hanging somewhere cool. But once you wear it for a few minutes it softens up. I can’t take much credit on the recipe though. I found it on here from the lone woodman. He has a long video on it but it’s pretty informational because he goes into the science of why this recipe works so well.
Hopefully you love it as much as I do. Let me know what you think of yours once you do it.
This is the best wax jacket tutorial on the interweb. Thank you.
Oh Well no thank you!! That means a lot.
@@TheHiddenHomestead You got it sir. Do you by any chance still have this jacket, if so, can we get an update video?
I do still have it! and you can find a one year follow up on it on my channel.
Here’s the link to the follow up
waxed canvas/TIN CLOTH jacket followup
th-cam.com/video/cuifyWD6Muc/w-d-xo.html
@@TheHiddenHomestead Awesome! You da man!
you make it look so easy! you make me feel like dancing! you make me feel like I need to do this to my Carhartt jacket........ now! lol!
😁😁👍👍
Im inspired to try my hand at this now because of this video! I was thinking beeswax only but i like how the oilskin look turned out! Also, great touch on the stiff brush, I never see that on other vids. Im itching to try now on my Carhartt and a few tool bag rolls I have around the house.
Awesome! I’m glad I inspired. 🙂 I think the stuff brush is just a nice touch. It gets rid of any wax that didn’t fully soak in and globs up in the corners and it kind of buffs it all out and gives it a slight sheen. Good luck! Let me know how it turns out.
Yeah the brush is what's missing from nearly all oilskin vids for sure.
Yeah. I love Carhartt but one draw back is my jackets aren't water proof.
I've been thinking about waxing atleast one of them for a while now.
There's different formulas of crystalline wax. The way yours snapped says it was a harder brittle type, there's softer flexible ones but I am having trouble finding moderate priced ones to ship to my remote area. Great vid thanks man.
Thank you!
Beeswax toilet bowl rings work well.
Nicely done. While I'm a big fan of turpentine vs. mineral spirits (purely a nostalgic thing), turpentine is difficult if not impossible in many parts of the US. MS is pretty odorless and works perfectly well.
Thanks.
Yes it’s very hard to obtain. Thats the biggest reason I used the mineral spirits. Glad you enjoyed it!
Just got turpentine on Amazon sent to cali.
@@TJ-hd5ym sweet!
Just got done doing both of my carhartts with this video thanks gotta wait 3 days to see how it turns out
Awesome!!! And you’re welcome. Let me know how it turns out and what you think.
Hey! How did it turn out. I'm going to wax my dri duck when it arrived! Did/does it smell from the turps?? Cheers
Thanks for including the source! Your video was very well made, and very enjoyable; however, it blazes through the process. So many people, made awesome videos like yours, but don't include the source so those of use who want more detail are left high and dry lol.
After seeing how well it worked for you, I'm going to be doing this to my Detroit jacket. It'll make a great rain jacket for here in Oregon!
You’re welcome! And thank you very much! That’s awesome. You’ll have to let me know what you think once you treat it.
@@TheHiddenHomestead Will do! I got the wax on the way, so provided I can find pure tung oil locally, should be able to start this week.
@@xblackdog awesome! I got mine online. realmilkpaint.com. You can find it on Amazon as well
@@TheHiddenHomestead Got my coat all waxed up. Finding adequate pots to make a double boiler turned out to be the hard part ahaha. Now the long wait as it cures! So far, already feels much better than the first time I tinned a coat using premixed wax (otter wax iirc). I've got another old coat that I might do with the remaining mix (placed the extra in a paint can, hopefully the tung oil won't cure).
@@xblackdog awesome! I think as long as it’s sealed it should be alright.
Beautifully done. I will be tackling this on a vintage polo Ralph Lauren Firmans coat. Thanks for the inspiration
None of Thee above thank you!! That’s awesome. Good luck with it!
We've put two coats of Otter Wax on a cotton twill Filson jacket. We did the wax then hair dryer system with each wax application. But the jacket doesn't have a finish on it that looks solid and really like a waxed jacket should. Could we apply this waxed/Tin Oil formula on this jacket and possibly get a better look and feel? If not this application, what can we further do to improve on our jackets feel and appearance? Enjoyed your video immensely. Thanks for any suggestion.
Thanks! It wouldn’t take much since you already have a base but yes I suppose you could apply this to your jacket.
I have the same issue. Used 1bar and a half of Otter Wax on my Carharrt and so far i'm so really convinced I must say. Not only didnt' I get any shine but the jacket feels very sticky/greasy and not sure it has improved the waterproofing at all :-I
I intend on trying this method as well. Did you do yours on top of the Otter Wax layer already? Thanx ;-)
That’s awesome... I love that your dog barks at even you when you come through the door, mine does the same thing! All the benefits of your place far outweigh some crappy internet service! Was that a brass brush? Thanks and keep sharing the passion!
Switzer's Nursery & Landscaping he’s a pretty good guard dog! No it was just a cheap chip brush.
I'm curious to know what the temperature is when using the heat gun. Looking forward to your reply, thanks.
The temperature of the air that the heat gun is producing? Sorry I don’t remember what temps that heat gun was capable of. It broke a while back. The best answer I have for that is hot enough to melt the wax. 🤷🏼♂️
I live in California, unfortunately. Mineral spirits are no longer allowed in the Kommi state. What would be a good substitute for mineral spirits instead. Would love to try this. Thanks from Cudahy, Kommifornia.
Mineral spirits?? 🙄 it’s mainly used to thin the tung oil so any thinner. Citrus solvent could be used. I’ve used it with the tung oil as a first coat on wood projects. Make sure to research the one you want to use to make sure it’s a pure citrus oil. Real milk paint (the company that makes the tung oil I used) makes a citrus thinner that works really good.
@@TheHiddenHomestead Awesome! I appreciate your response to my question. I will use this instead.
What part of Cudahy man? I lived on Santa Ana for many years. Went to Bell High.
Yeah , watch out for that yellow snow.
Good Job! 👍
😂 thanks!
Awesome video to just sit, enjoy the music, and watch the process. Well done!
Thank you! That means a lot!
I have an oilskin jacket that needs re-treating. I might try this since the oil I'm looking for is hard to find.
Awesome. I think you’ll like it!
Thank you for this! I’ve always enjoyed the tin cloth look, just not the price. I’ve watched both videos, and I’ve got a Dri Duck coming that I want to try this on. Question, I’m curious about the wax in the cold. It’ll get -20 where I am, I’m curious if it cracks at that temperature?
Awesome! I’ve had it in about -8 so far and I haven’t noticed any cracking.
Came here because I'm thinking about waxing a jacket. I didn't expect to be chilled out by scenic views and relaxing guitar, lol.
Glad you enjoyed it! 😁👍
Have the same jacket that's a couple years old that looks to be a renewed outdoor rough and ready barn coat. Don't have a barn but lots of outdoor projects here in the pacific northwest. Iove my Carhartts. Thanks for the inspiration.
Heck yeah that’s awesome!
Definitely going to use this recipe thank you for the video😊
Awesome! Thank you for commenting!!
Hi ! Great video, and appreciate the follow-up as well. I am planning to this to my boat yard-jacket and have a question: most people just use wax (pre-made or a mix of beeswax and styrene). How come you use a mixture of wax and oils? Is it more durable?
Hey! To be honest, I actually copied another TH-camrs recipe so can’t take credit for it. He did a video on the science behind everything and how it all works together. Check out the link for that video in my video’s description. He does an outstanding job explaining the why behind it and it is a better explanation than I would be able to explain it here. That said, yes it is very durable. After my follow up and reapplication video, i’ve not had to do anything with it.
The ending of this video of you walking outside with your pup was awesome. I have the same jacket but didn’t wax it.. best carhartt jacket to work in, in my opinion.
Thank you!! I agree with you there. Fits great on me and is super comfortable
Which carhartt jacket is it?
@@baumator8575 Sherpa lined Sierra
@@baumator8575 J141. U can find his style on eBay. The newer style doesn’t have the leather carhartt patch unfortunately.
This video answers all my questions, thank you
Awesome! That’s good to hear and you’re welcome.
Awesome! Doing this to my Carhartt soon. Thank You!
Just Plain Common Sense awesome! I’m glad you got something out of it!
And the wax insulates the jacket as well...I own 2 Barbour jackets and re waxed them. Your video is great
Thank you! Yes the wax does a very good job at keeping wind out and extra warmth in.
That intro scared the crap outta me, wasn't expecting that......
Especially with how serene the rest of the video is
Very helpful to actually see the process in action though
One question though, if I plan to do this indoors, say on a surface other people use like a kitchen table, how much do I need to worry about wax seeping through the coat onto the table? Should I put something down over the table or is it not really a concern?
Lol. I don’t believe I got any that seeped through. It does harden back up to a softer wax so you should be able to pick/flick it off the table. That being said, nothing in the ingredients are super toxic but better safe than sorry especially if it’s somewhere you eat. You could put something down just incase. Especially if you dropped or accidentally spilled some.
Nice job! Have you experienced any drawbacks from decreased breathability due to the waxing?
Thanks! Nothing major really. It’s already a pretty thick jacket so it didn’t breath that great anyway. I usually stay warm enough to where I only have to zip it half way up so that I can get some air movement if needed.
How long do you have to work the mixture from the bowl before it starts to thicken? Im guessing the oils and stuff keep it liquidy for a while.
Thanks for sharing this.
You’re right. The oils certainly do help. I had plenty of time to apply and was still able to do so after about 30-45 minutes. After that, just to make it a little easier I did put the mix back on the heat. The heat gun is certainly a must for when it does start to cool because as soon as it comes in contact with the cooler material it does get pretty stiff to move with the brush alone.
The music is very nice also. Great vid. 11/10
Thank you very much!! I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Was the jacket the black version or the “shadow” (grey) version? (Just wondering how much it may have lightened the colour.) Absolutely love the result and looking to do the same in preparation for this fall. Thanks!
It was the grey. It actually made it a bit darker. Awesome! Good luck with it!
I have the black , I’ve been using it for work for years & it’s now grey , going to wax it for the first time amongst of canvas garments , you used a lot of oil to d as often the texture of the wax and it still looked fairly
Rigged so I suspect I’ll do the same
what the name of the jacket i want one ????
I LOVE the idea and would like to do this to a new Carhartt jacket I'm planning to buy but how do you clean it if you can't throw it in the washing machine?
You don’t. For me personally it’s a work jacket so I don’t care that it’s dirty. Also, after waxed it doesn’t get THAT dirty. The wax keeps dirt and grime from “soaking” into the fibers.
Ty_Braek I don’t believe freezing bacteria kills it. It just goes into hibernation
Doesn't it get stinky?
Jan Barnard nope. I mean really how often does one wash a regular jacket? Not necessarily a work jacket but one that’s only worn for a few hours a week and a few months out of the year. Not to often I imagine. So if I were to use it this way I shouldn’t have to worry to much about an odor. The wax and oil keep things from penetrating into the fabric and it doesn’t get soiled as easily. Therefor things that may produce an off putting aroma doesn’t cling to it as well. Now, because it is a work jacket I do come in contact with many things that could cause something to stink. But after a year and a half of use I’ve not once thought “I shouldn’t be smelled in public with this thing”. Also, my wife has a very keen sense of smell and the jacket stays hung up on the coat rack at the front door. So as of now no it hasn’t gotten stinky and I’m not to concerned that it will.
I 've got a old Filson waxed tin cloth boonie style hat. I've only washed it once because it was cover with soot after burning brush on the farm.
Didn't need to re proof it, it's still water repellent.
Nice!
Love the production of the video. Feels like one of those TLC videos. Doesn't feel like TH-cam video and found that very refreshing :)
Awesome thank you!!
Hello, thats great. I wanna try it 👏🏻 but can only pure oil be used instead of tung oil finish?
There’s really not much oil in tung oil finish. At least compared to the amount that the recipe calls for. Also, it’s very expensive. So I wouldn’t recommend using just the tung oil finish. You should be able to find all the ingredients on line. I have a list of them from Amazon in the video description.
Hey. Great video and follow up video. It was very well done. Is it important to buy microcrystalline wax or can you you achieve the same results with other wax? Thanks.
Hey thank you! You can certainly use different waxes. In fact from my understanding most do. What property microcrystalline wax has that some others do not is that it stays pliable which helps the durability by staying flexible with the garment.
What can I use as a substitute for the snow, I live in a warm climate and it only snows once a year here, should I wait until then? TIA
It is highly recommended to wait. The true magic for the wax potion to seal properly is from using the first snow of the new moon. If anything else is used in its place you are not only wasting your time but valuable resources as well. My apologies for not mentioning that in the video.
I think mike in the lower comments would have benefited from knowing this lol 😂 thanks for the video. I’m about to order all the components. Dang that tung oil finish Is expensive!
Hahah.
Hey you’re welcome! Yeah. For what it is it was already a little on the higher side. I was reading an article or thread somewhere and it talked about the price going up a bit. But didn’t know it had gone up that much. Where did you buy it at?
Did you notice any wax seeping through the canvas and penetrating into the lining?
I’ve been considering waxing my own canvas jacket, but read somewhere waxed jackets are usually made with a liner in them that prevents the wax from going all the way through and ending up on your clothes.
You notice anything like that?
Thanks.
I didn’t. Mine has a pretty decent liner though. But I also put it on pretty thick
I'm sure I'm way too late to get a reply but I guess there's no harm in trying. Thanks for the awesome video, is there any chance you can share exactly what carrhart jacket you used? I love the look
I try to reply to everyone no matter when you comment! 👍 it is a Carhartt Sherpa lined Sierra. I’ve not looked but have been told that it had been discontinued.
Did the Color change after.? I have a pair of black Yukon bibs I wanna try this with and worried another the white wax on the black Material
It made it darker actually.
Brilliant video. I would probably attempt a second coat of the wax. I am sure, it would completely seal the jacket, and get to any small points in the jacket missed the first time. I have the perfect Carhartt jacket in mind, to accomplish the same. Two thumbs up...👍☀️👍 You have a new subscriber.
Babe Root awesome!! Thank you!!! I plan to do a “follow up” video in a few weeks and do a second coat.
In the other video he measured the tung oil, tung oil finish and mineral spirits by weight. Did you do the same or did you use fluid ounces?
I simplified it by using fluid ounces. Not everyone would have a small scale to weight it.
Man, that is some really beautiful guitar going on back here brother!
I know. I wish I could take the credit for it!
@@TheHiddenHomestead hell, me too!
What’s the exact name of the jacket or the code number like j120 or j141 looking for that exact jacket with the top left zip pocket but without the fleece lined? 🇬🇧👌🏻👍🏻
All I know is that it’s a Sherpa lined Sierra.
@@TheHiddenHomestead Ohh okay, i know that jacket, it’s just because i couldn’t see the inside of it i thought they made the same jacket but without the sherpa lining, thanks 🤜🏻👌🏻
I liked your video very much! Excuse me, at what coldest temperature in winter is it comfortable to be outside for a long time in this jacket? Thanks.
Great! Thank you.
Well that’s a really hard question to answer. It’s hard to answer because different people have different cold/discomfort tolerances. For example I’m one of the “weirdos” that practices the Wim Hoff method in which I take ice baths every morning. Are you just sitting or are you working to produce your own heat? Is it sunny? Windy? Wet? All that being said and to try to answer your question the best that I can: if it’s sunny with no wind and I’m doing some type of moderate activity I can wear this jacket with a long sleeve T-shirt in about 20° weather
@@TheHiddenHomestead Thank you
When I re-wax my old Barbour jackets with my home made mixture (2 parts wax and one part baby oil) I use the hair drier and rub it into the cloth with a bot of sponge, but also, I give the jacket a short spell (5 minutes) on hot setting in the tumble drier. Don't do more, because that is VERY hot. The jacket once cooled is fit to wear right away and won't smear wax and oil on your car seats, because it has sunk right into the cloth of the jacket.
Nice! I imagine it smells pretty good too with that baby oil. 👍👍
Yeah - it was a VAST improvement on my first experiment which used linseed oil which stank so badly that i put the jacket against all advice into the washing machine and gave it a hot wash to remove every trace of the foul stuff. My partner had started to refuse to get in the car with me when I had that jacket on!!! :))@@TheHiddenHomestead
@@Tonyv1951haha! That bad huh?
Wow. Really well done.
Cornelius Quiring thank you!
thx for the recipe.
could you tell me how to change the percentage if i want it softer instead of more waterproffing？
sry for my bad english
Hey you’re welcome! And no problem. I’ve not tried it so I can’t be sure of an exact measurements but possibly if you reduced the amount of wax by 1/4 - 1/3 it should be softer. I would try a few small samples of different amounts though. It may be less durable/rugged with less wax though.
@@TheHiddenHomestead yeah thank you, i get it.
Hey man, thank you for making this video. What kid of brush were you using to clean it up?
Hey thank you! And you’re certainly welcome. I can’t remember if that one was nylon or a natural bristle. But either way a short stiff bristle brush is what you need.
why did you go with a microcrystalline wax insead of a parrafin, or blend...or even a duck wax from Blended waxes? Just curious. i want to use the best stuff possible. Was it a budget or accessability decision? or is that the best wax for the application?
From my research it’s the best wax for the application. Because it remains flexible at all times. Therefore it won’t get brittle and “flake” off. I mention him in the description but the Lone Woodsman goes into great detail on the science behind why it works so well. Here’s his video on it. th-cam.com/video/dvZczKZfvF4/w-d-xo.html
@@TheHiddenHomestead thanks a million man. This is the exact explanation I was hoping for(nerdy mind). I don't know shit about waxes so it was purely a curiosity question. I appreciate the thorough response. Just found you from this video and am now a follower. Thanks for the content
@@thatguy8718 Well you’re certainly welcome. And thank you very much!
Great video. Just curious if the wax stiffens the jacket? Thanks Joe
It does. But softens back up a little bit once you were it for a few minutes and warm it up.
And thanks!
@@TheHiddenHomestead I'll give it a try on my older jacket first. thanks alot
@@JoeL-ut9ee sweet! You’ll have to let me know what you think.
How long did you wait before using the heat gun? Getting ready to do this myself and have all the supplies. Should I just wait till the wax dries, and if so, how long?
Thanks again for the inspiration!
I divided the jacket into sections. Left arm. Right arm. Left front. Hood. Etc. As soon as I applied the wax to a large section I immediately used the heat gun to remelt the wax solution. Once it was all soaked in I moved to the next section or touched up spots that I didn’t feel was saturated enough.
And you are welcome!
First exposure to this idea. Love the information.
Gloria Pope great! Thank you!
Can you find the products you used at any kind of stores in town? Rather than ordering online and waiting a few days? I’m itching to do it ASAP
I found the tung oil finish at Lowes but the tung oil and wax came from Amazon. That said you might be able to find it where you live. Try craft/hobby stores possibly
hey mate, great camera work by the way. Nice angles. I know im a bit late but do I need to use two different tung oils? Can't I just use Pure Tung Oil?
Many thanks
Roger
Thanks man. It’s not entirely necessary. The “tung oil finish” just gives the mixture drying agents. Without it it will take the pure tung oil a lot longer to cure.
Love the video, but I have a question: I’m in Germany and I can’t seem to find tung oil finish. Do you think I can just leave it out?
Cheers!
Thank you!! You could. The tung oil finish is used for the drying agents. It speeds up the curing process of the Tung oil itself. You would just have to let it hang for a few weeks to give the oil time to cure out
@@TheHiddenHomestead Thanks for the answer! Drying it out for a few weeks sounds like a pain, maybe turpentine would speed up the process as a replacement for the tung oil finish?
@@HairyPoopins I’ve not used or tested turpentine with it so I’m sure how it would work. Maybe try a very small batch to test it.
Make your own mixture: 2 parts bees wax and one part baby oil (baby oil in the uk is a mixture of high quality mineral oil and some pleasant smelling scent. Nice and FAR better than my first experiment in which I used linseed oil which smelled terrible. You could put in more oil if the mixture is too hard.. Try it. Costs pennies and far cheaper than buying Barbour wax which is pretty much the same thing I think.
@@Tonyv1951 this is the way to go. Tried it today and it worked like a charm before the blow dryer gave out on me. I recommend using a heat gun as it should be way more efficient. Thanks for the advice!
Just did this a couple hours ago. Out of curiosity when does the tung oil smell fade? Or does it?
It will take a few weeks for it to completely cure out and the odor to dissipate
@@TheHiddenHomestead alright awesome. I plan to do this to all my jackets!
@@buckwild6587 nice!!
I like how it set to jacket fabric, but here its hard to find tung oil, so what can i substitute tung oil with?
Hmmm. I’d have to do some research. I use tung oil for a lot of different stuff so that’s my go to. I make a mixture of wax and oil for my metal and use it for any Shou Sugi Ban type project I do. You can find it on Amazon though. That’s where I get it because we don’t have pure tung oil where I live either. Just tung oil finish. Which usually don’t really even have much tung oil in it.
Traditionally, boiled linseed oil was used before Tung oil became more commonly available. There are some particularities with boiled linseed oil tho, I've heard that it's possible for it to simply make the fabric hard and brittle if you do it wrong or use the wrong variety, so look into it further.
Awesome video! I just ordered a new Carhartt in navy blue and am considering waxing my jacket now after watching your video. I wonder how well this would work on their gloves?🤔
Awesome! I’d say pretty good BUT this process does make the material a little stiff. So until they get warmed up and broken in the gloves may feel awkward.
Hello, thanx for the cool video :-)
I used some Otter Wax on my Carhartt and I'm not thrilled with the results :-I Super sticky and greasy to the touch and not really water proof.
Anyway I intend on trying your method. I would like the jacket to be kind of stiff and with a shinny rugged look. Any of the ingredients I could push to get the results? or just go with the recepe as is?
Thanx again ;-)
This recipe will work perfect for what you’re looking for. After cured I brushed it with a stiff bristle brush. Helped give it a satin like finish.
@@TheHiddenHomestead excellent! thanx ;-)
Looking at the MSDS for most 'tung oil finish' products, looks like they're just tung oil with mineral spirits already. Some seem to be partially polymerized to encourage faster/harder drying (i.e. oxidative polymerization). Some like WATCO's tung oil finish have a "Long Oil Alkyd" added - some sort of resin I guess. Curious why you decided to include this in your recipe? Seems like just tung oil and mineral spirits would do the trick?
You nailed it. I used it for the polymers that help cure the tung oil. So faster “drying”times.
So I waxed a nice canvas jacket with household wax by rubbing the block of wax onto the heated canvas. It was then so stiff that it will stand in the corner unassisted. I then painted it with linseed oil and mineral spirits to try and soften it so I can use it in cold weather. It didn’t help much. Any suggestions? Would the tung oil help minus the wax?
Mine is pretty stiff. Once I put it on my movement and body heat softens it up a bit.
Ok thanks for taking the time to answer me. I’ll see if I can figure something else out and if I find anything that helps I’ll shout you a comment. Stay dry. 👍
@@Ridesmule The problem is of course that you only have wax in the fibers. Which would make it very stiff. But like I mentioned, mine is stiff with the tung oil in it. I believe by painting oil on it you are really only painting the surface. It’s not getting into the fibers. My suggestion would be to try and strip the wax out and then use a oil/wax mixture to reapply. Another option is to heat the wax up to its melting point then apply the oil. But I don’t think you will achieve a very consistent result this way.
I'm curious as to why you used a harsh chemical like Mineral Spirits instead of Citrus Solvent (also sold my Real Milk Paint CO). I'm a woodworker and use their Tung Oil and thin it with their Citrus Solvent for furniture finishes. It's potent but natural. Thoughts? Very cool jacket by-the-way!
Great question. I have used the citrus and admittedly prefer it. However, it can be expensive and wasn’t available at the time of doing this project.
@@TheHiddenHomestead Right on! One more question: Why use any solvents at all? Couldn’t you go full strength tung oil considering the mixture is being heated? IE… Aside from thinning the tung oil, is there any other benefits to adding a solvent?
@@bradentokoly yeah there are some benefits. The citrus/spirits obviously thin the tung oil which if heating that’s true you may not necessarily need it. I didn’t test direct heat to the tung oil to see how much it does thin it. The tung oil finish is just for the drying agents to help speed up the process.
@@TheHiddenHomestead Thank you for the detailed explanation!
@@bradentokoly you are certainly welcome!
Nice video. Amazing that this started using waxed sail material, along time ago. You can spend $$$ on "rain gear " that won't keep you as dry as this preparation. Thanks for sharing. What area are you located? Looks very similar to N. Idaho.
Thank you AND you’re welcome! Somewhat close. Western South Dakota.
Thanks for this! Just wondering what the particular properties, or reason is, for having wax and oil etc? Would the wax alone not just work?
Yes I believe it would. Don’t quote me on this but I think traditionally that’s all that was used. The tung oil just helps get the mix deeper impregnating the fibers instead of just the wax “setting” mainly on top.
I mentioned this in the description but while this mix is a great recipe I can’t take credit for it. It is the The Lone Woodman's TIN CLOTH recipe. You can check out his video if you want to know the real science behind. It is longer but for good reason. Packed with great information and why and how it works. here's the link if you're interested.
th-cam.com/video/dvZczKZfvF4/w-d-xo.html
@@TheHiddenHomestead The Tung oil is a vital part of the process, it polymerizes and remains in the fabric as a functional part of the waterproofing. The "tin pants" style coating is an outgrowth of the ancient tradition of making oilskins; sailors would treat their sails with boiled linseed oil which would polymerize and make the sails more solid so they wouldn't let air thru, and then when the sails wore out they'd make waterproof garments of the oil-treated cloth.
Has anyone ever tried to use rapeseed wax for this instead of paraffin or bees wax, and knows whether it has the same water repellent qualities?
And is the tung oil finish really necessary?
The tung oil finish is used to help everything dry or cure faster. Tung oil alone takes a while to do this so it speeds up the process.
Love the vid! Do you think this would work for a cotton polyester blend material?
Thanks! It could I guess. But you’d need to be careful if you use a heat gun like I did to melt the wax mixture into the fabric. To much heat could melt the polyester fibers.
I don't think the polyester will absorb the waterproofing mixture. If the cotton has a higher percentage, say 60-40 it could very well work. The cotton will absorb the mixture. If it's not a expensive coat I say go for it. I have two Carhartt's one is a jacket and the other is a black Arctic coat. They both are getting the treatment.
We don’t have any snow as it’s summer here at the moment. Is there anything else I could use? 🤣😜
I guess regular old tap water could be used… but it won’t be nearly as magical! 😁👍
If there is unused, excess wax mixture left over, can you save it for later use? Will the re-solidified, then reheated mixture be as effective?
I did a follow up video on that exact thing. So far it seems to be holding up and working just as good.
nice video first-time watcher will definitely be doing this to my first Carhartt jacket ill be getting really like the look you went for and that exactly what I wanted what jacket did you use for this video? and locations/sites for the material? thank👍🏽
The jacket is a Sherpa lined Sierra. But someone told me that they discontinued it. I ordered the wax and tung oil from Amazon. And got everything else at Lowe’s.
@@TheHiddenHomestead well that’s unfortunate might go with filson or flint & tinder instead then thanks for such a fast reply.
@@trdevad2359 you’re welcome!
Hi there. Just found your channel. Just wondering about the ring finishing oil. Did you make that? I can’t find it here. Is there a substitute you could recommend? Thanks
Ring finishing oil?
Tung oil finish. Sorry.
@@rorymcevoy87 I got mine at Lowe’s. If you can’t find it at a local hardware store you can search Amazon. I might even have the amazon link for it in the description.
What about FR jackets? Does this still apply of does the mixture counteract the FR durability?
I can’t speak on that. I’ve never tested it.
Great video, curious if this recipe works well with leather, have you tried it?
Thanks! I’ve not tried it. But Id bet it would work.
I used it on my boots and love it
Did it add much weight to jacket? did you consider using beeswax and linseed oil instead? thanks in advance
I’m sure it added some weight but not enough to really notice. A few oz of wax. I considered it but while it’s a little more expensive then beeswax this wax is a better option in my opinion. And linseed oil can go rancid.
What if you starched your jacket before you did this? Would it effect the wax or outcome?
I assume it would. The wax wouldn’t soak into the fibers as well because the starch would prohibit it.
Have you had to re-treat it? has it held up? I think that Carhartt jacket is known as the "Detroit". Great vid, thanks!
Stacie Higgins I haven’t had to retreat it yet. It’s held up pretty well for it being my work jacket. I do have some left over so some time this year I will go ahead and retreat it just to add to it.
And thank you!!
Stacie Higgins The carhartt Detroit jacket doesn't have a hood or a dropped back. The jacket he's waxing is the Sierra.
Was the amount you mixed together enough to do the entire jacket? I'm going to give it a try but want to make sure I have enough materials for it to get done.
Oh yeah. I was able to do the first coat, then a touch up after one year. I might still have enough to do a set of gloves or something.
@@TheHiddenHomestead awesome!! Thanks
Gotta love the Cuisineart Pan in the Homestead
lol 👍 It works great when I sneak it passed my wife.
Did you end up using the entire lb of microcrystalline wax
I didn’t. Maybe half to a third on the first go round. A year later I did a follow up video on it and reapplied to see how much more would soak in. So treating an XL hooded jacket twice I still have about 1/2 - 2/3 of a pint jar left.
odd question, do you find the oils /wax seeps out in a hot car?
I can’t say that I’ve ever noticed that. But I don’t tend to keep my vehicle that warm either.
How do you wash the jacket? I need to do this to my Carhartt jacket since it tends to get a little wet when out in the snow plowing and starts to stink like a wet dog.
I’ve never washed it. Quick spray or brush off and it’s clean...ish. I mean it’s a work jacket so clean enough for me anyway. The dirt just adds character! 😁😁 also, I layer up so it doesn’t smell on the inside. Of course, my base layer/t shirt catches all the funk.
May I ask how you were able to download Pamela RS's My Travel music?
I’m not sure which song you’re talking about but I get all my music on here from the TH-cam studio.
I'm not sure what I did wrong, but my jacket when done was stiff like concrete HAHAHAHA. Have any idea how to remove as much wax out if my jacket. Probably shouldn't of done it on my father's jacket that recently passed.
It will be a little stiff. Once you put it on and wear it it’ll soften up a little.
@@TheHiddenHomestead oh yeah I understand that, I've done a few over the years but damn it was stiff. Must of had too much wax in lol
@@chris5957 oh wow yeah maybe. Mine was stiff but I didn’t think it was crazy stiff.
@@TheHiddenHomestead Yeah I could stand it up with the sleeves, I was like yup I fucked up 😄 🤣
Its been two years now. How is the jacket holding up?
I did a one year follow up video. You could check that out but even after two years it’s holding up great!
Awesome video! How has the jacket held up to washing?
Thank you. I’ve not washed it. Because it’s a work jacket I don’t care if the outside is dirty really. As for the inside, I’ve worn it for almost two years now and it doesn’t stink. At least no one has told me it does. I keep it hanging by the front door and the wife hasn’t told me to take it to the garage yet. I dress in layers so that keeps most of the sweat and BO from really getting on the inside material.
@@TheHiddenHomestead I recently done this to my Carhartt back in November and love it. I have moved to a more humid environment and my wife complains that the jacket stinks. I’d say it has a smell to it but it doesn’t stink. Has your wife or anyone complained since and if so what have you done to eliminate the smell?
@@Johnszimmerman nope nothing still. I know it has a slight “musk” to it; a combination of dirt, diesel, grease, saw dust, concrete dust, metal, and smoke. A sweet but masculine working man’s fragrance. But no one has told me “man you need to wash that thing. You stink!”
Usually just hose off oil skin, maybe scrub worse areas.
Great video. I really like the quality. What camera(s) do you normally use?
Well thank you!! It’s nothing fancy. I use the cannon T7i.
Can I use a regular blow dryer or do I need something special in order to let it set in?
You can use a hair dryer. It may just take a little longer just because it doesn’t put as much heat out as a heat gun.
Excellent stuff bro
Thank you!
Gday mate . What carharrt jacket is this? From Australia
Howdy! It’s the Sherpa lined Sierra
Is there anything I can use in place of the tung oil finish that work work as good?
🤔 I can’t think of anything off the top of my head. Technically you probably don’t need the tung oil finish. Tung oil by itself takes a long time to cure. The reason the tung oil finish is used is for the “drying agents”. It helps speed up the curing process of the actual tung oil. If you wanted to set it and forget it for a few weeks you could probably get away with not using it. But don’t get excited and wear it to soon. You’ll potentially get the tung oil on everything else you touch.
@TheHiddenHomestead ohh okay thank you! I have all the time in the world to let it cure :) looking forward to trying this out!
awesome! You’ll have to let me know how it turns out
Hi! About to wax my jacket. Found Tung oil but can't find Tung oil finish(or any info) anywhere! What would you suggest as an alternative? Cheers 😊
Did you do a search for formbys tung oil finish? Don’t know where you are but that’s probably the most popular/readily available in the states. As of an alternative.... the tung oil finish is mainly used for the drying oils and thinners. You could possibly use boiled linseed oil and a little mineral spirits to thin it.
Yup the heat gun farely makes the difference to the wax going in to the material..
Definitely made things easier that’s for sure!!
I am about to get the Bartlett and want to do this to my jacket. Can anyone guide me to updated products? Does the brand need to be the same as listed in the video or can I go to my local lowe's?
Brand for what? The ingredients? As long as the the ingredients themselves are the same the brand doesn’t matter.
Love this! I'm going to wax my barn jacket. Thanks for sharing!
Awesome! Glad you got something out of it. Let me know what you think.
How much heavier is your jacket with the wax? I'm wondering about doing this with one of my canvas hiking bags (and jacket!)
Awesome! I don’t think it made it much heavier. Im sure a few oz from the weight of the wax. That said, it’s a work jacket so I never took notice or thought about it honestly. I’m a ultra light weight nazi when it comes to hiking though. So in that aspect yes it definitely added weight. Again, probably only a few ounces so take that as you will.
Can I use bee wax, raw linseed oil and turpentine instead?
Yeah. You could. That’s what a lot of other recipes call for.
I've always heard that boiled linseed oil is necessary instead of raw.