I would get it dyno tuned. I have similar car mines the road track edition and only difference between our cars is I have full bolt on with shorty headers, stock intake manifold, and I have the NA Lope MMX cam installed and I did 424rwhp 427trq on mustang dyno.
The 1974 Dodge Charger Brougham Edition with a 318 cui and a lot of mods including Holly 600 cfm double pumper carb, dual 2 5/8" flowmaster exhaust, MSD race ignition box, plug & coil wires, and MSD coil, ect... It was putting out 275 horsepower @ 2300 RPM's. The guy at MVD emissions station said that it's against the rules go above 70 mph for safety reasons (blow out, car comes off of the rollers, ext.) The transmissions is a 904r4 RFE torque flite, with possi-traction rear end, 12" Krager SS rims in the rear. Plus I put a stainless high performance flex fan and high performance transmission cooler in it. The intake is a holly sniper intake. I am thinking at 6000 RPM's it's putting out 425-450 horsepower.
I believe 6th gear, not 5th is 1:1. Plus, you did get the Stage 3 cam, but the boost cam. It wil not hit top end until that boosts is running. Still think it would hit 400 or 405. My Stage 2 hrt cam, long tubes, cai, 87mm tb, 6.4 intake with active runners set at 4800 on the msd switch got me 420whp.
Those stage 3 HRT cams are wild and should without a doubt have you blowing past that 400 whp mark. It seems they respond better with either added displacement and/or much higher rpms. I'm slowly buying parts for a stroker build on my RT and plan on using the NA stage 3 HRT. I've been doing my own tuning using HP Tuners for about a year now, started out with a course from the Tuning School. I would love to take a look at your tune and a couple data logs just out of curiosity.
I have a hunch that the rear O2 sensors still might be activated, troubleshooting wise, I ordered extensions and I'm going back to the factory sensors. At this point I need to start tuning my own vehicle as well. What tuning school did you use? HP's own or? I can email you the logs I have but they are not under load (dyno).
@@neverenuff2381 It's called The Tuning School based in Florida, they offer online and printed HP Tuner courses. Could you upload the tune and logs to the hp tuners forum and then paste the link to that here, youtube won't let me post my email in the comments. Looking forward to future videos
Quick question I'm looking at a comp cams stage 3 mds delete kit. Right now I have longtubes and a tune I make 407whp and 460wtq do u think I'll lose power with that cam or should I go texasspeed??
@@bassheadray the comp stage 3 cam is massive and from my research it's most effective at making big power numbers over 5500 rpm so you would have to upgrade the valvetrain and of course have it tuned properly. I assume the kit includes stronger springs, pushrods, etc? Personally I would go with comp over Texas speed.
@@joshuas.carsntanks This. Not really even a great cam for a street car depending on use. Seen some 6.1s making well over 450 at 7k with this cam, a stage 2 is about all you need for stock heads.
That number is dead on for that cam. Since it’s a boost cam the specs are close to the na cam but it lacks the overlap of the na cam. Overlap= top end. I have the same boost cam but am running na with the same results
You’re problem is the intake temps. Hemis are very sensitive to IAT’s considering it was sitting in a garage doing Dyno runs it was probably very hot. We’re talking 100 Hp losses at 130 degree intake temps
Whoever did that dyno run was horrible. Also if you are full bolt on and you are doing a dyno run why not use your tuner to do a dyno tune instead of an email tune. Another thing to note is, if you have done the research you know you should be over 400rwhp with a full bolt on setup like that.
I thought the same thing, he swore he didn't shift and said the tires weren't spinning but the graph shows a different story. I think I'll go to the other shop that has a dyno. Very few here in Hawaii.
It was dropping power after 6k-6100, I'm going to find another shop that has a dyno and compare. I think there's 2-3 dyno shops out here but no 1/4 or even 1/8 mile strips. The roads have too many people on them to test and tune as well. I'll get it straightened out and keep you guys in the loop.
I would get it dyno tuned. I have similar car mines the road track edition and only difference between our cars is I have full bolt on with shorty headers, stock intake manifold, and I have the NA Lope MMX cam installed and I did 424rwhp 427trq on mustang dyno.
The 1974 Dodge Charger Brougham Edition with a 318 cui and a lot of mods including Holly 600 cfm double pumper carb, dual 2 5/8" flowmaster exhaust, MSD race ignition box, plug & coil wires, and MSD coil, ect... It was putting out 275 horsepower @ 2300 RPM's. The guy at MVD emissions station said that it's against the rules go above 70 mph for safety reasons (blow out, car comes off of the rollers, ext.) The transmissions is a 904r4 RFE torque flite, with possi-traction rear end, 12" Krager SS rims in the rear. Plus I put a stainless high performance flex fan and high performance transmission cooler in it. The intake is a holly sniper intake. I am thinking at 6000 RPM's it's putting out 425-450 horsepower.
I believe 6th gear, not 5th is 1:1. Plus, you did get the Stage 3 cam, but the boost cam. It wil not hit top end until that boosts is running. Still think it would hit 400 or 405.
My Stage 2 hrt cam, long tubes, cai, 87mm tb, 6.4 intake with active runners set at 4800 on the msd switch got me 420whp.
My 3rd gen made 400 with intake, headers, injectors and e85
This was already stated but you need a new tune and you need HP tuners. HP tuners will allow you to lock it in a gear and keep it from shifting.
I think it was loose intake manifold bolts. They are small in diameter and the next time I'll use thread locker.
Those stage 3 HRT cams are wild and should without a doubt have you blowing past that 400 whp mark. It seems they respond better with either added displacement and/or much higher rpms. I'm slowly buying parts for a stroker build on my RT and plan on using the NA stage 3 HRT. I've been doing my own tuning using HP Tuners for about a year now, started out with a course from the Tuning School. I would love to take a look at your tune and a couple data logs just out of curiosity.
I have a hunch that the rear O2 sensors still might be activated, troubleshooting wise, I ordered extensions and I'm going back to the factory sensors. At this point I need to start tuning my own vehicle as well. What tuning school did you use? HP's own or? I can email you the logs I have but they are not under load (dyno).
@@neverenuff2381 It's called The Tuning School based in Florida, they offer online and printed HP Tuner courses. Could you upload the tune and logs to the hp tuners forum and then paste the link to that here, youtube won't let me post my email in the comments. Looking forward to future videos
Quick question I'm looking at a comp cams stage 3 mds delete kit. Right now I have longtubes and a tune I make 407whp and 460wtq do u think I'll lose power with that cam or should I go texasspeed??
@@bassheadray the comp stage 3 cam is massive and from my research it's most effective at making big power numbers over 5500 rpm so you would have to upgrade the valvetrain and of course have it tuned properly. I assume the kit includes stronger springs, pushrods, etc? Personally I would go with comp over Texas speed.
@@joshuas.carsntanks This. Not really even a great cam for a street car depending on use. Seen some 6.1s making well over 450 at 7k with this cam, a stage 2 is about all you need for stock heads.
Awesome video I’m doing the same upgrades but different manufacturer can’t wait to see what’s next can only imagine what the turbo cam is for 💨
That number is dead on for that cam. Since it’s a boost cam the specs are close to the na cam but it lacks the overlap of the na cam. Overlap= top end. I have the same boost cam but am running na with the same results
Still high numbers for an "sxt"😂
Gen 3 Hemi*, and like others have said, needs a real dyno tune forsure
How's the car doing now? Just cam'ed my 5.7 and getting just over 600 wheel and 500tq
You’re problem is the intake temps. Hemis are very sensitive to IAT’s considering it was sitting in a garage doing Dyno runs it was probably very hot. We’re talking 100 Hp losses at 130 degree intake temps
Looks good. What was the numbers?
Whoever did that dyno run was horrible.
Also if you are full bolt on and you are doing a dyno run why not use your tuner to do a dyno tune instead of an email tune.
Another thing to note is, if you have done the research you know you should be over 400rwhp with a full bolt on setup like that.
Yeah, that's the known issue on the island...no one here tunes Mopars. I have to rely on email tunes and shops that only supply the dyno.
Dude you need to spin that to 6500 at least that’s where the power will be! Also why is the car shifting on a Dyno pull? It shouldn’t be!
I thought the same thing, he swore he didn't shift and said the tires weren't spinning but the graph shows a different story. I think I'll go to the other shop that has a dyno. Very few here in Hawaii.
It was dropping power after 6k-6100, I'm going to find another shop that has a dyno and compare. I think there's 2-3 dyno shops out here but no 1/4 or even 1/8 mile strips. The roads have too many people on them to test and tune as well. I'll get it straightened out and keep you guys in the loop.
@@neverenuff2381 sounds like a plan!
Did you do a tranny tune as well as engine tune?
neither
Are you full bolt on ?
Add bigger injectors and e85 you’ll be 400 easy
Do you know if your 3rd gen was at 100% injector duty cycle?
@@neverenuff2381 i don’t believe so my tuner put 95 lb injectors just for the extra wiggle room
Is that Ala Moana
Need better tuner
waste of my time