My dad worked as a mechanical engineer for Ideal Industries around 1970 and holds the patent for putting the spring inside of the wire nut. As a boy, we had hundreds of these wire nuts that were prototypes. We took a vacation that routed near Connecticut where there was a spring manufacturing plant that made the spring that used a wire that wasn't round but rather had edges to help "bite" the wire. I think of my dad every time I use a wire nut.
I designed a specialty tool which industrial engineer will do a realization factor. Basically a man hrs for manufacturing. This was in avionics at a defense contractor the employee that submittal his idea gets a percentage of realization factor in man hrs saved building the company owns and holds the patent cause you worked on it on company time. But like I said you would recieved a suggestion check. A 2.2illion dollar system that you can knock 1 hr off the realization factor on a contract to build 2000 units with 400 spares would get you like 4 grand. Plus defense contracts go out to the manufacturer and a 2nd company building to specsm so really tools can be used on future contracts but never will pay you any more cause again they hold the patent they can do use or sell to othe company's vendors whom ever.
We would never useechanical connection on...mil spec wiring. Only mechanical connection would be a pin going in a Bendix connector using a inspectedcalibrated crimp tool and the extractor insertion tool. I'd wire 200 or more wires in a 10" x. 2" square box and make a cable with a bedix connector on the pig tail of cable .some had twisted pairs for sheilding Most did not
Glad to see you actually pointed out the real #1 mistake. Not pull testing every connection. Loose connections is probably the #2 cause when I get a call about a light not working. BTW the #1 cause, by an unquestionable lead... the lightbulb.
To build on your way of stripping, at first try pulling the insulation only about 2/3 off the wire, then twist using this small piece of insulation. This will make a more perfect twist and also prevent finger oils from getting on the wire.
electrical apprentice here. one of the task i have the hardest time with is bonding stranded copper to solid copper on fixtures and ceiling fans etc. this was great my man!! 👍🏽
I'm an experienced electrician and I recommend to bend the solid just a bit around 30⁰ on the tip about 1/8 in lenght so you can put your stranded wire then the wire nut and you'll see the difference...
Thank you!!! The WAGO connector was so wonderful!!! It made it so easy and too the guess work out of it. I'm a 73 year old female replacing a ceiling fixture myself. I tried it once using Marettes and it didn't work because they came apart when pushing the wires back up in the box. I'll never do it again with Marettes.
Was having trouble splicing the wires even when pushing the stranded wire up first. Yours is the first video recommending what looks like a much better alternative with the Wago 221. Thank you so much for this information. Don’t want to call an electrician for putting up a couple of wall sconces but also don’t want to risk my inexperience producing faulty work. Thanks again.
I'm 73 years old, and in my youth, wires were all solid not braided. One use to wrap the solid wires and cover them with electical tape. With the advent of wire nuts, one didn't have to wrap them, thus saving a bit of time. With the advent of braided wires, experienced professional electrians, always wraped with as you show, the braided being slightly ahead of the solid. But as you stated, the general DIY'ers, who were not trained. Just followed the wire nut manufactues guides.
I'm an electrician and i will tell you this much. Most wire strippers are made so that you MOST DEFINITELY will be trusting the tool at one point during the stripping of the wire. place the wire at an ANGLE to the opening for that size wire (listed as the AWG size on most wires). Once you close the blades of the wire stripper you SHOULD twist the tool, at least, until it is at a perpendicular angle to the wire. Then pulling the strippers at the cut and towards the short end of the wire. If the insulation doesn't come off easily then either the wire is old; damaged; or you used the wrong size opening on the strippers.
(Stranded wire is not "braided".) (What is "electical tape"?) A house built in 1948 used ceramic wire nuts, on tin-plated solid copper wire, with insulation that is now crumbling. (Have you looked into knob-and-spool wiring?)
@@quaztron hi depending where you are your insurance company may require that you stop using the " knob and Tube" wiring even to the point of having it removed. Which is a shame because for its time it worked well. And yes to stop using can mean rewiring the entire house but since the insulation is as you say crumbling . Yes you got a problem and you will need a professional electrician (who hopefully has dealt with this before) and yes time is a concern. Sorry let me know if I can help more
I would like to expand on your warning about the dangers of loose connections. Arcing is a symptom of a loose connection. A short is a zero resistance, high amperage fault which will trip a properly functioning over-current protection device. The real danger with a loose connection is the increased resistance which produces heat; enough to cause a fire. This is coming from a licensed electrician, electrical inspector and retired city fire department fire investigator who has investigated a multitude of electrical fires which resulted from a loose connection. Good information and explanation; especially liked display of the proper screwdrivers. Klein also sells the combination tip screwdriver bit.
From your experience what would you recommend in these "Wago's"? I've seen multiple of these that comes in light fixtures and I had emergency calls because lights went out when I go and find on these "Wago's" with overheating marks on the wires caused by high resistance... I wouldn't recommend these "Wago's", me personally don't use them on my own work and if they come in the fixtures I cut them out and use wire nuts...
@@MrSeth166 I'm not an electrician but a contractor, and MY experience with the WAGO's is that after a while my AFCI outlets start tripping. When I take the WAGO's out and twist the wires together instead, the problem disappears. I have asked EVERY electrician I have come in contact with, and as a contractor that is a lot more than the average DIY'er, and NONE will use much less recommend a WAGO and like you cut them off whenever they are working around them. Yet in Europe I've heard they use them more than a twist........ go figure.
You covered this very well! Kudos to you mentioning the Pull Test! Just a couple of extra quick tips; Tool Wise, since 1973, if Klein made it, I bought it. Period. I still have original Klein tools in my pouch and I retired in 2015. Also, the largest issue with solid copper I found is that it is smooth. The flexible wire just slides right off. I used to knurl up the solid wire a little with my plier jaws so the flexible wire has something to grab onto. This offered me a superior mechanical bond. I also bear down hard when I twist wire nuts and I never had a failure. Not one! I see too many newbies who don't use enough torque on wire nuts. Crank Em' Down! Cheers!
@@huejanus5505 - Excellent point Hue! That's also one of the benefits to really cranking down on the wire nut. If it's the wrong size, it will just slip!
As a tradesman myself I have to say.... bravo!! I am a CNC specialist and I see a lot of things that diy'ers do that I want to correct them on. Not for the purpose of degrading them, but to share information that I have become very good at. That being said, I have a REALLY hard time grasping the knowledge of electrical. I can't remember how I found this video because I put it in my watch later list, but it's made me a subscriber and I look forward to watching the rest of your videos.
24 years machining and repair, 6 years ago i made the leap to electrical. Journeyman in 3 years, due to my attention to details and print comprehension, leadman already.
Glad you mentioned "pre-twist" which is probably in the top 3 reasons for connector failure. For DIYers you are correct on the WAGO's they will save your from mistakes made by not having a good feel for the connection. Wagos are fine on federal jobs so they meet code requirements anywhere.
I always lead with stranded. Common sense. But pros make many stupid mistakes. That's why I became a diy person in the 1st place. And I can't tell you how many times I had my car so-called repaired by a professional mechanic and they messed it up worse than when I brought it in. So for the past 30 years I've been fixing my own cars. Anytime I can't fix it, believe me the pros are going to be like oh you got to get a new car this is totaled. In my experience Pros are pretty useless. Even when they do electrical work I have to watch them and then afterwards fixed their stupid mistakes but of course I don't tell them because I don't think they can handle the criticism. I just smile and even give them a tip and never call them again.
Kudos to you. I have never looked at my wire strippers and noticed that one side said stranded and the other said solid. So I have learned something today. I thank you for that! I was good with the rest already.
Very good. Another wiring nut method that I use when putting stranded and solid wires together is tinning the stranded wire tip with solder before twisting conductors with the wire nut . I think the Wago 221 method should be ok for low current applications because the contact area between the connectors and the connector tabs is not enough. I particularly don't like snap-in connections when handling a high current.
Either it needs to be good for the full rated current of the circuit, or needs to not be used. Fortunately, it IS good for the full rated current, and your assertion that is is only "OK for low current applications" is complete BS.
Great video! When stripping wire, I usually use the thumb of my hand that's holding the wire as a kind of fulcrum against the stripper to help push the stripper off the wire.
Great information. I’ve also notice from experience that if you push the stranded higher than the solid wire as to where the stranded catches first in the wire nut it will grab good and won’t come apart.
So grateful for your video tutorials. A friend asked me to help her install several outdoor fixtures. Just before I went to her home, I had to check on Wago connectors and how quickly Amazon would deliver. Not fast enough so I searched your video to again learn which wire was to be extended when using a wire nut. Stranded wire - approximately 1/8" above the solid wire. I have said this to myself so many times in the last 12 hours that I will never forget! We got the lights hung before her husband got home and had a ball DIYing together. She is an inside crafty person and a terrific electrical assistant! No disrespect to men intended but as suspected, he didn't notice the new lights. Maybe today? Thanks, again! Have a blessed day.
Pro tip. If you treat every electrical repair as if the power was still on you can’t go wrong. I’ve had people turn breakers on while I was working on circuits and have turned the wrong circuit off myself. No contact testers are great but again even when I know the power is off I handle wires carefully. You can get feedback voltage through neutrals from other circuits. When in doubt call an electrician. I’ve done many repairs where homeowners did the work wrong or they “had a guy” do it wrong for them. With 40 years experience as an electrician when I try and rush a job is when mistakes are made.
I just flip the breaker and test the wires. My primary safety technique is doing only one job a day and doing it slowly. Since it's my own house and I am not being paid for it, I don't have to rush.
Like drilling a bore hole and feeling unnecessary resistance only to find out after looking on the other side of the stud, you are boring through a stapled 220 line...I've slowed down
@@cappiece3786 Paper and Clip types are a no go around Retarded tenants that pull them, even locks get cut by the occasional entitled one. I lock-out Tag-out and work like it's live.
You are absolutely correct on buying the Wago connector instead of the traditional. I bought some wire nuts that I used about 1/4 of the cheap plastic container the it developed cracks and collecting dust. I would rather pay more and probably save money in the long run. Well made video. Thank you for sharing
@@TheMinecraftACMan No! What I am trying to say is that homeowners don’t need a 1000 wire nuts. They are still good but the holding container cracked and will never use the rest in my lifetime. They are not cheap. I bought them from the Home Depot.
@@hassanbazzi3545 Oh, you mean like the number you buy, gotcha. You can get like a small bag of them I think. Not 100% sure cause I buy them in bulk for work, lol.
I am new to your channel. You are an excellent presenter! Great communication skills with just the right speed pattern in your voice. You also seem to care about teaching your audience and not just rushing through the video to get it done and uploaded. Thank you!
When I was taught 45years ago, I was to pre-twist connections until there was a good mechanical bond, and they would not easily pull apart without a nut, then add the nut. Now I use ferrules whenever possible and then the push in connectors. Ill be adding some of these Wagu to my stock
A perfectly installed wing nut is slightly superior to a WAGO, mostly because of cost. Drive by a builder-grade new neighborhood, and just guess at how many of the tens of thousands of wire nuts there are installed perfectly? The genius of a WAGO is it takes some of the human error out of the equation, which makes it valuable to homeowners, DIYers, and contractors with lazy employees. Blessings!
@@PatrickKQ4HBD "just guess at how many of the tens of thousands of wire nuts there are installed perfectly?" None? I'd bet they all look like hammered dogshit and have taken twice as long to terminate.
To many crappy electrician’s are now using push in style Wago’s Leaving massive shiners or exposed conductor’s passed the connector. For this reason I cannot stand wago’s The lever type aren’t to bad though. Bit the push in style suck “for the next guy” When I come to a job and have to fix your fuck ups that’s when it becomes a problem.
I use WAGO connectors all the time. When hanging light fixtures, they allow me to do a lot of the connections prior to lifting a heavy light and then fumbling with one hand. They cost a little more than nuts, but for the average homeowner, they make wiring life much easier and foolproof.
Nothing beats wire nuts for cost and, as a pro electrician, that's the driving factor. I use thousands of them every year, and replacing them with Wago would be a significant cost increase that I would have no choice but to pass on to the customer. That being said, there is one place I always use Wago: when working overhead. Especially in recessed can fixtures. At 63, the less time I spend on top of a ladder with my hands overhead, the better. Wago is probably not enough faster to mitigate the cost differential, but my body really appreciates them at the end of a long day.
I also use my Ideal Stripmaster wire stripper when doing can lights. Being a union electrician, I took some heat on this but grew tired of cutting my knuckles and fingers on the sharp edged J boxes mounted on can lights.
Ehhh, the cost is mitigated by how quick you can connect using Wago. Not to mention it's almost fool-proof when it comes to how its used. Never liked the wire nuts.
@@NorseGraphic As I said, I use 1000's every year. Wago is 5 to 10 times more expensive per use. I would therefore have to be able to use at least 5 wagos in the time I can twist one wire nut. I assure you that's not true. Properly applied, both are great. For a non-pro, Wago is the better choice since they have almost no learning curve.
I think the WiFi switch I installed a few months ago is all right, but doubt is creeping in. I'll redo the job tomorrow just to be absolutely certain. Thanks for shaking my confidence...seriously...thanks.
As an electrician, I see a lot of videos on the internet giving people wiring advice. Many give incorrect or bad advice. The information in this video is correct. I've used the Wago's for years. They are great. And the advice here about pull testing and leading the solid with the stranded is spot on. Extra points for mentioning the difference in gauge sizes between solid and stranded.
Yes, that, but tell me if this little trick isn't a goodie: I learned years back on stripping SOLID wire to a) choose the proper slot, then b) angle the cutter slightly, squeeze, square it to the wire, then pull the sheathe straight off. I find that this breaks the adhesion and makes it easy to pull off. If you choose, say, the 14g slot for a 12g wire, you'll possibly have the wire break at the cut.
I'm a licensed electrician myself. Wires don't move by themselves inside walls and ceilings. Not unless you're house is in a tornado or earthquake 😅. I wouldn't worry about this video much. Just make sure everything is secure and safe. When l wire with caps l wrap electrical tape tightly around the caps, wire. 👍
Nice video. I've never been a fan of wire nuts, but I always twist and never had a failure. I grew up using a Buchanan crimper, but it is hard to find the sleeves for it. Wagos look slick but feel like the Shark Bite connector of electricity.
Yeah been using Wagos for ever, very popular back home in the UK. When a electrician came to my job he noticed wagos and asked about them he really liked the dinrail mount clips, he had never seen them before. They really clean up a control box and make testing, fault finding or replacement so much easier. US Inspectors are a little unsure of them and ask to see specific details. Great video
The same principle of using levers in Wago is also used in light-fixtures, as manufacturers moves away from screw-connectors. They're so much easier. You want to disconnect, just push in the lever and pull out the wire. The spring will keep it in place when you release the lever.
Works great for small diameter, like up to maybe 4mm², haven't seen anything that can handle more than 2.5mm² so far though. At least in the company I work for we use spring loaded stuff only for the control circuit, everything power related is screwed in place firmly.
Great video.. I learned the hard way myself with splicing stranded to solid core wire and had to figure out myself to lead with the stranded wire higher than the solid core to get the nut to bite both wires and bond them securely. Good that you explained this thoroughly so everyone can understand what can go wrong will and to eliminate said variables
Wago's are the best. I love the lever nut ones, use the grey ones for years, mainly for bench tests and quick connects for testing and the 221's all around the house since they are much smaller. Personally load banked many of wago components to many times their current rating and literally see the wire insulation drip off before the wago components even discolor, incredible company.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I have 1 hand and have installed probably over 100 fixtures for myself and friends and wire nuts are a pain in the butt for me because I have to get everything lined up in vice grips and put the wing nut in the drill and stop the drill after tight but before it spins the vice grips and twists the insulated part together and risk over heating. Using the drill will make a 2 handed persons life MUCH easier also because it will allow you to get good firm consistent pressure and then even twist rate but I recommend holding the insulated side of the wire with a pair of pliers
Try stripping like this: Cut the insulation with the correct size hole then move the wire to the next larger hole and pull off the insulation there. (But before I pull off the cut insulation I put the cutting edge 1/8" to 1/4" closer to the end). The slightly larger cutting hole prevents scraping or nicking the copper and the cutting edge grabs the insulation instead of just pushing it so sometimes it slides off easier.
Here in Australia, the "Twist nuts" are not allowed (as far as I know), we use "bp1's and bp2's" , Clipsal 563B screw cable connectors. Wires twisted together, then put into the connector and the side screw screwed in. The "bp2"s" have 2 side screws used for earth wires.
Yep already know these just wanted to add if you are concerned about the levers a single loop of electrical tape across them os all it takes to prevent them fully opening. I have used both methods and connections in this video. The newer connections are definitely nicer and easier but both work very well when used appropriately.
an electrician showed me to wrap a few rounds of electrical tape around the wires than wrap the wire nut, it won't come apart. wagos are cool new technology haven't used them yet but will give a try on next diy project.
Great vid on wirenutting solid to stranded. Regarding the Milwaukee knife, I used to use them all the time. It fits in the hand. What I do not like about them is the location of the blade release. Many times I would accidentally push the release button while cutting and the blade would come out. For that reason I quit using those knives. I now just use the Home Depot Rigid folding utility knives. They do not fit in the hand as well as the Milwaukee, but the blade release has no issue.
Wow, I did not know about Wago before and I was putting on a light high in the ceiling and it was a very awkward position and I could not install with the regular connections. When I seen you video, I ordered from Amazon and I had them delivered to me the next day. The next day, I made the connections very secure and the light was firmly installed. Wow, this is an amazing product and I would paid 10 times the amount for such a great product.
Couple comments.. thank you for making the distinction between LEVER and push ins. Do not use push ins, especially with stranded, for so many reasons I won’t list. Just don’t. But Levers are fantastic, they handle load and heat just fine and are a great option for diy’ers that have trouble splicing. With regard to splicing stranded to solid.. I prefer to twist the stranded around solid before using wire nut but.. one of the simplest and best tricks a 30 year journeyman taught me thankfully early on. Strip the solid a touch longer than normal. Then use your pliers to zig zag the stripped copper from insulation to end. Then wrap the stranded. Then use the wire nut. Easily best practice from my knowledge. Enjoy your channel keep posting!
This is the way, always pretwist your conductors together, do not rely on the wire nut to do that for you guys, I was always taught in school to pretwist conductors, it's the proper way.
Love Wago stuff. We're actually transitioning away from wire nuts and and push-in connectors to Wago because they're vastly more fool proof and generate a consistent sprung connections.
My choice: Wago for Lights, LED lighting + intercoms. Ferrules for wall outlets, air conditioners, floor heating, stoves + geysers. Resin joints for Out Buildings, pumps & underground
DIYer. Thank you for the video. I did know to pull on the wires to test the connection, but never knew about the technique you showed with shorting the solid wire just a little when using that wing nut. Thanks again
Your tips were spot on for me a DIYer (I just hung 6 lights including a chandelier by myself): ▪️ I hate stripping wire - didn't have the correct equipment. Once I simply cut the end of the wire off and stripped it, everything was so much easier. *Stripping the wire and just starting over with clean fresh wire is the thing to do.* It saves so much time. ▪️ I can't wait to use the Wago 221s in the future, but I went to two stores that had the Wago 221's in stock on the web site, but unfortunately when I got there, there were not any. Instead I got the Ideal brand similar connector, but I can tell you, they do not work the same and I would not use them again. Ideal worked well with solid wires, but I had a hard time getting the stranded wires inserted and the stranded wires kept coming out; therefore, I had to revert back to using wire nuts on two ceiling lights I installed. Also, I got the three wire connectors, because I knew some junction boxes had same colored 3 wires connected through a wire nut. One benefit I found with the Wago 221 style wire connectors is that because I was installing multiple lights, I removed all of the existing lights at the same time because the circuit was already off and then I put the Wago style wire connectors on the exposed wires coming from the junction boxes. This made mounting the lights at least feel faster and easier because I only had to insert the light's wires into the wire connector that was already in place and waiting on the light. This kept my hands free since I did all of this by myself. ▪️ Having the stranded wire sticking out further than the solid wire and then using the wire nut as you recommended is the only way to go. The wire nuts gripped the stranded and survived a pull test. It's funny how when you do things the right way, the right way is much easier. Thanks for the great video
I work for an OEM Control Panel Builder, Our Control Shop uses the Wago Lever nuts on the handful connections that would normally require a wire nut where there would not be terminal blocks, eg. small junction boxes, MAC solenoid air valves. They have reduced quality issues and are just in general pretty awesome. In the industrial world Wago is a relatively well known company that produces some really good IO cards, bus couplers, terminal blocks etc.
@@mouldyboats Nah Friend, just an overworked relay jockey whom calls it like he sees it. Of course, what do I know? In my own opinion as far as addressing remote IO. Wago wins hands down compared, to Allen Bradley, Schneider Electric, B&R, and Phoenix Contact Equivalents. But I will say that I do Like Phoenix Contacts Terminal Blocks and wire management panel stuff, Weildmuller stuff isn't bad either. and I still like Wago Lever nuts too. *Edit* I have enough work with the global shipping and parts shortages.. and my writing skills are not up to par with being paid to talk about what i like on TH-cam.
I had heard a benefit to using wago Was it is recommended every time that wire nut comes off you must peel new wire? Is that true, because I’ve been guilty of replacing light switches not using new wire and using the same wire nut but it seems right.
I noticed that when you used your wire strippers, you had to use a fair amount of force to pull/strip the insulation off the wire. Although I don’t own the nice pair of strippers you use, I did develop a technique that makes the pulling off the insulation a lot easier (with my cheaper strippers). Basically, I would use the stripper to initially cut the insulation, then slightly relax my grip on the handle while pulling the insulation off. I found that when I maintained the same force/grip while pulling it would take way too much force. Just my two cents. I seem to recall this works for both stranded and solid wires, with slightly better results on solid wires.
I used the same method, its effortless. also holding the wire in the palm of your grip and using the thumb to lever against the stripper gives you massive leverage.
Another advantage of Wagos is that because the wires are not all twisted around each other they're much easier to take on/off and figure out what's happening in the circuit (take one wire out, see where it comes from, what still has current, put it back in, etc). When I replaced some zone valve motors on my heating system I replaced all the wire nuts in the junction box with Wagos, and it was much much easier to follow the circuits after doing so (and will be much easier the next time I have to replace a zone valve motor).
This is absolutely the beast of excellent work quality oftentimes. I remember when I worked on the electrical in cars before becoming a residential electrician. The Hondas and Chevrolet interior panels were much cheaper looking and feeling but man did they come off quick and easy. The Mercedes and Porsche panels, the exact opposite. They looked great and were solid and sturdy but pain in the butt to remove.
The point of the twist is a having a redundant string mechanical connections. I don't see how traceability is an issue in most electrical enclosures. This is like saying you rather have a car put together with bolts and screws instead of welds and rivers because it's may just be easier to fix when you crash. I hope the priority here is strong electrical connection for safety and effective device operation.
@BB backstabbing a receptacle is also CSA approved, yet you are bound to find a few switches and receptacles that have failed in a house after a decade or so from repeated stress. This is the same type of mechanism with Wago. The only Advantages that Wago will have (at least what I can think of) are 1. time saved and 2. in very specific instances, you need to replace one device while the circuit is still hot for control applications. This is how I do things and this is how I tell people how I do things. I don't think that, "relax, it's certified" is a reassuring thing to tell your customer. There are many "certified" things that are stupid. Maybe wagos are good for homegamers that can't form a proper twist, but for professionals... To me at least... It's sketchy as hell.
I just started using the Wagos. When your doing larger jobs it's a time saver. A little more money but they are awesome to use. I've used wire nuts for 40yrs.
Great video on stranded wire. Also the WAGO push down connector is perfect for me when I wire outlets with 12 gauge wire and sometimes split off another one or two wires for an exterior outlet or additional outlets on a side wall, etc. Then the 5 wire WAGO connector is perfect.
Better to rotate/wiggle the wire strippers to cut the insulation all the way around to fully cut the insulation at the gap, then pull it off. I always twist tight the stranded wire around the solid with pliers, leaving a little stranded wire sticking forward to insure the wire-nut grabs it. I used the 5-hole Wago lever connectors in under-dash wiring my classic cars, such as to distribute IGN and ACC sources. They began in industrial wiring, but became more affordable after spreading to home wiring.
I use to work for one of the largest wire nut manufacturers in their lighting division. All of our lighting products were built using Wago connectors! Wago connectors are also great if you have to work with live wires, the risk of accidental electrocution is much less than twisting a wire nut... That's insane even if you're a pro. You're correct never pre-twist, as you said let the nut do the work!
Wago is a German company so it is definitely not pronounced Way-go. The way he pronounces it in this video isn't correct either. If you want to know how anything is pronounced correctly check the TH-cam channel of the manufacturer.
That's excellent! Thank you for posting. ( It would help if you showed the PACKAGING that those lever connectors come in. ) I had to sign a waiver that stated whatever you designed belonged to the company. I designed HUNDREDS of tools, jigs, work stands, lifting rigs for crane operations, test equipment, procedures, safety application tools and procedures, etc. for over 35 years. I got 3 awards in that time. The main thing, I made a positive change to the world! The company, I'm sure, patented all of it and made it available to order by giving it its own class & item number for all the other shops. Your Daddy was smart enough to bypass the waiver...or possibly, they didn't have one then. I signed mine in 1975. I HAD TO in order to work for them! It ain't right, but they like to think that they OWN YOU !!! They keep you down, and morale ain't the best, but its a job worth putting up with the bosses' bosses', bosses, bosses 💩!
Thanks - that has always driven me nuts! I would pull on the wires and it would fall apart sometimes, work others. I never made the connection between the stranded being ahead of the solid.
I've used wire nuts forever, but the Wago type connector would be very beneficial when stuffing the wires back into the box. I am always worrried about the wire nuts not holding with all the bending and stuffing necessary to put the switch on or whatever. These seem to be more secure in a number of ways.
I don't know if this is CORRECT or not but I will wrap electric tape around the wire nuts and down the wires a short distance to help them hold better when having to push into a tight junction box.
@@workingman9745 Yea that's how they were designed to be. Also outlets are supposed to have wrapped tape around them. Also USA's method of installing the outlets so they are like "smiley faces" is upside down, ground should always be up to take the weight, you'll see it in hospitals and other places that don't hire tiny brained/fat/lazy electricians. Electricians that do homes etc are bottom barrel last picks.
@Working Man I don't like using electrical tape for things like that because it doesn't last very long and the wires just get covered with the sticky glue.
I learned 2 things. Even though I've done a lot of DIY electrical work over the years. 1. The same gauge in solid & stranded wires are a different diameter. 2. The proper way to use a wire nut on a solid/stranded pair. I have seen the WAGO connectors in other videos and are similar to low voltage connectors I've used in the past. But have not had a project to try them yet.
Buy them, you'll never use a wire nut again. I have been using Wago for a year and a half now, and don't even carry wire nuts anymore. I only deal with residential, so I don't have heavy gauge wire I need to deal with, mostly lights, outlets, gfi's, etc. And I love the Wagos now.
Gardening spoken like a true electrician. I’m a professional electrician and I couldn’t care less if I’m using wagos or wire caps. My advice is to learn how to use both proficiently because they both have their pros and cons in the field.
You might find this interesting. In the (rented) trailer I live in, about a quarter of the outlets have ground connections that aren't grounded. And I wasn't able to locate the ground wires for those circuits in the breaker box. I plan to install some breakers with GFCIs, or get the land-lord to do it. I also found one outlet with reversed wires, which I fixed. Now, for the BIGGY! I almost SHAT, when I found one circuit that used the bare ground wire as the HOT! It was in Romex cable, so it didn't short out, but really! So I fixed that one. What sort of "ning-com-poops" did the wiring? Was it ever inspected?
Hi, I use Wiedmuller automatic wire strippers, they are really good. As far as connection blocks, I consider Wago to be the professional choice not the DIY choice, those screw on yellow things look terrible.
As a professional electrician, those “screw on yellow things” are preferable as they lock in your splices and are designed for permanent connections. Wagos are good for situations where you may be swapping different fixtures in and out. The only thing I don’t like about wagos is that they tend to be inconsistent inside. As in, sometimes your conductors slide right in and other times it’s a fight to get them in. In times like those, it’s easier to make a splice and cap it with a wire nut so you can keep moving.
The weidmuller automatic stripper is amazing, but I pretty much only use it for stranded wires that need sleeves, particularly for automation work. Otherwise in my country we use small cable cutters for both cutting and stripping, only students, early apprentices and foreigners use proper stripping tools for general electric work. As for Wagos, we pretty much exclusively use them. I think the only example I've found a use for wirenuts instead is if I'm connecting something like 3 heating cables together over a 4-pole breaker with a single power supplying cable. In which case I use the wirenut to connect the neutral point because it has more surface area and a Wago will melt down over time (even though you'll measure 0 amps running through that wire).
Yeah...Wagos are useful in certain applications, mainly in tight boxes, but if you have the space use the better way. Wagos are not code compliant for all applications.
Thank you! Perfect info since I need to change a kitchen light fixture in my kitchen to a disk LED. Much appreciated!! I just used your link to add the Starter Kit to my Amazon cart.
I've used something similar to the Wago's before called an Alumiconn connector. Basically the same principle, but they use a set screw to tighten down the wire instead of a lever. They work great for when your house is wired with aluminum, but the wire you're connecting to is copper. However, I might give the Wago's a try after seeing how much easier they are to use 👍
Wagos are great for mixed strand/solid connections. I still can't bring myself to use them when pigtailing receptacles or single phase motors, but in small wire big wire applications, they are a must. Their ratings are not a joke either.
I've used Alumiconn and Polaris insuli-tap connectors in industrial applications for years.. nothing quite as good as that for when used on very high amperage applications. Motors pulling hundreds of amps etc.
As a 15 year commercial electrical foreman you did a wonderful job showing how wagos are properly used. One thing on your technique in stripping wire. It’s a 3 step process. Close the stripper fully to cut the shielding completely, release the pressure to roughly 80-90%, THEN pull the shielding off. If you keep it completely closed it will scrape along the copper and make it hard to strip. I keep wagos on the truck because sometimes you come behind DIY’S that have done a bad job and left short connections in a box and you can’t twist the connections properly.
Great info Juan - when you apprentice to a journeyman, or better, a master, you watch them make very short work of tasks that can confound you. There have to be tens of millions of techniques and tips that aren't being passed on to this generation for a wide variety of reasons. Thanks for the comment. 🙂
When assembling 1 solid and 1 stranded using a wire nut - first not necessary to strip off 3/4" of insulation. Less is more! Read the instructions provided by the manufacturer too, always helpful! One wire nut 1 stranded one solid - assemble the wires side by side with the stranded about an 1/8" above the solid, tighten with your wirenut. Again, ALWAYS read the manufacturer recommended assembly. Never fails to work correctly!
today have world biggest fail use wire nut connection because have lot lot more better connection in shop can buy, and lot safety too, wire nut not have good not safe
Dang. If only I’d known about this from the first time I struggled with a solid wire/stranded wire connection putting up a ceiling fan. In 1985. I now have a conscience which is nagging me to return to every place I lived and places where friends lived that I installed various fans, sconces, ceiling fixtures and chandeliers over the ensuing years. That number (as well as I can remember) is about 85 installations. I thought I had learned everything I needed to know when I found my first Vaco stripper. Thanks for the update.
Great video as always. You make sure you are clear In how you explain things and always provide evidence to support your statements. Good to know I've been doing this right all along. I used to build test circuits in school and we would have to test them with more than just power on and off. Connectors had to get a tug test as well as an overload test to make sure they worked right and I learned early on that stranded goes first to get a better connection.
First of all, you should hire a professional electrician. Fixtures wires can be of any guage, as they are a listed product. No terminations on the branch circuit side of you home should be of less that 12awg. So the wires in the wall have to be a minimum of 12awg. They should be sized according to the load as per NEC 310.15 (b) 16 in the 75°c column. That being said, I take the solid wire and bend it into a zig zag shape. Then take linesman pliers and twist the stranded around the solid before twisting the wire nuts on.
@@joelpruitt5959 I've never once hired a "professional electrician" to do my job. My job is literally fixing homes for a living and I can't count the number of screw ups I've had to fix from "professionals" who did shotty work. That's why we call them vendors or contractors in my field because at least half the time they aren't professionals. I've seen so many "professionals" wire a gfci wrong that I have little faith in them. Not to say all electricians are bad, but all the local ones around me save a few most certainly are. Some plumbers are just as bad. Half of them don't even know how to transition from. Copper to plastics (pex, pvc, ect) and I've seen them install shark bites wrong. Those are like the simplest thing to install. But like I said, not all are bad at what they do. I know a few who could work blind folded in a dark room and still do flawless work. But those guys are few and far now days.
I'm almost certain I've made that mistake with solid and stranded wire before. This video convinced me that I should switch to Wago connectors anyway. I'm a DIYer so the price difference is unimportant given how few I need to buy.
Thanks for this. Very good. When buying a wire stripper a few more dollars spent always pays off. And forget the strippers that come in a cheap kit. I've had problems stripping stranded wire when using very cheap wire strippers. With some strippers I learned to cut the wire in the correct gauge size but then insert the wire into the next larger gauge size to pull off the insulation. This tends to work when strands are being torn off with the insulation.
The first method is good but lacks one step that most electricians don’t know. Before you put the two wires together you twist the stranded wire counter clockwise. This means that when you tighten the wire nut clockwise it’s not unraveling the stranded. This is also true for wire nutting two stranded wires. If you twist both wires this way, by hand you can twist the wires and it will be the neatest stranded wire connection. Trim your wires a little long so after you twist them you can cut the end off a little for a clean tip. I have used stranded for many commercial jobs and have never had to look for shorts when this method is used.
If you are facing the bare copper end on, then you must wrap the wires clockwise as this is what you will do with the wire nut in order to tighten it. If you wrap the wires counter clockwise then turning the nut on clockwise will unravel your wires.
@@haroldkline4898 no I’m saying that before you twist the two wires together you twist each individual wire counter clockwise. Then you twist the two wires together clockwise. You’ll notice when you twist the two wires together how much neater the splice will be. Trust me I was an electrician for almost 40 years. I learned how to do this from a navy master chief. I was in the Seabees. Try it if you have some scrap wire laying around. Plus the joint is much stronger. I learned that when I was eighteen and used it to impress electricians that had decades more time in the trade than me.
@@haroldkline4898 ps this is if your facing the wire with the end facing you. The individual wires counter clockwise before you twist the two together and twisting the two wires together clockwise
@@haroldkline4898 sorry I was talking about two stranded wires. The way I was taught to take stranded to solid is just as you said. Still if you strip your stranded long and twist it clockwise with your wire pliers then cut the end to the extra length to go past the solid it will have less of a tendency to unravel and short. Sorry. I certainly wasn’t trying to attack the competency of the video. Compared to most videos I’ve seen this one gives more knowledge of the problems associated with using stranded wire. This is a guy who actually worked hands on with his subject matter. He’s shows that he’s not a guy who just worked at Home Depot in the electrical aisle
this is a pretty good stuff to hear. Mine favourite cable connectors are WAGO too. Only the problem is they are way more expensive than regular cable connectors. Too bad!
All these years I've been using wire nuts and have never seen the Wagos, probably because I wasn't looking for them. But I think you've sold me on them and will probably start using them on future projects. Thanks for a great video.
Thanks for the information, just ordered the pocket set. I have wired for decades and can easily see that they are superior, especially in small volume boxes! I also use a scissor like stripper by Klein, but it only has two different scales, only for solid.
Electrician here: you made it very clear that you're talking to diyers and on that note I think you did a great job with this video. The only problem was how you explained stripping the wire. Start off by holding your strippers at a 45° angle on the wire, bite down on the wire, then start to move your strippers to a 90° while applying pressure pulling the insulation off. For solid this simple movement will get the insulation flying off easily, but for stranded, I do this method then once the copper is exposed move straight to clamping down on the insulation itself and pulling off like you showed. Sometimes stranded will come straight off and cool, but most of the time you're going to fight it the whole way off so just move to pulling the insulation off with the pliers right away.
Man you never want to hold your strippers at that angle, it’ll cut into the copper weakening it, in aviation or military applications that’ll get you fired for good reason, best is said above razor knife or thumb and scissors…. Best is rotary strippers, but extremely expensive and probably not practical….
@@robertw1871 This is going to be a bit of a long explanation of why you're wrong about it damaging the copper, but bare with me. When fully closed, wire strippers have holes in them, multiple holes all with different diameters that correlate with different sizes of wire. Each whole is precisely the size of the copper in order to cut through all of the insulation while not cutting into the copper itself. Those measurements are taken with you holding your strippers exactly 90° relative to the wire. Now think of a right triangle. A horizontal line, a vertical line, and a diagonal line. The horizontal, let's think of this as the wire, makes a perfect 90° angle with the vertical line, let's think of this as the strippers, and then there's the diagonal line left. The wire is still completely flat, but now the strippers are at 45° angle relative to the wire. That diagonal line is mathematically proven to be longer than the other two sides. If the vertical line is shorter than the diagonal line, then that must mean that the strippers measurement of how thick the wire is is no longer correct. Holding your wire strippers at a 45° angle actually means you're not getting perfectly through the whole thickness of the insulation, therefore means it could never damage the copper seeing as to damage the copper the stripper has to go through the insulation in order to do so.
@@christopherperez6126 I understand, what you don’t know is that I’ve been doing this for over 30 years, for a substantial fraction of my career I’ve worked in failure analysis, and the root cause of most wireing failures is not using tools properly. I’m sure you’ve probably never had issues, but I’ll bet if you strip 50 wire then do an analysis under a microscope you’re going to find degraded structure, such as scratches and cuts left by the tool. Anytime a tool digs into the conductor it will weaken it, for household wireing it probably doesn’t matter 999 times of 1000, but I’ve found many broken conductors over the years traced back to this, and in more critical environments such as aviation or automotive where there’s vibration involved the failure rate jumps dramatically… I know what you’re saying and why it’s done this way, it’s because it’s easier to catch the insulation and drag it off the conductor when your at an angle digging into the copper, if you hold them straight it’s much more difficult as the insulation is still tightly bound to the core requiring more force… For this reason in critical applications the stripping tools have no cutting blades at all, the insulation is either mechanically separated from the core by tension, or it’s scored and peeled back resulting in zero damage to the conductor mechanically… even a small nick in the copper is a potential point of failure… is it a huge problem, no, but it’s not 100% correct either…. There’s a reason that some processes will not allow those types of tools to be used is all I’m saying… it’s just information…
@@christopherperez6126 except it decreases the distance between the two cutting edges across the wire not increases, holding at a 45 angle will increase you're chance of cutting the wire. that's why it feels easier coming off
As someone that builds\modifies his guitars constantly I think I'm going to start using these Wago connectors. 👍 Much cleaner than a big glob of solder that I'm struggling to keep together lol.
For that kind of job I would prefer to use screw terminal blocks. The Wagos will probably last for decades but the smaller contact area might be more prone to vibration. Soldering is fine too, you just need a bigger iron and maybe some small metal clamps to hold everything in place.
Remember the Wago is a bus bar, each pocket will connect to the next and is only meant to connect same function wires. (hot with hot, neutral with neutral, etc.)
In o gauge model railroading, we must often connect 2 stranded wires, usually a wire connected to a junction strip and onto a wire that leads to the train track. I never felt comfortable soldering the 2 wires together because you're usually under the trainboard. So I usually heat shrink wrap the 2 wires together. Dont wing nuts exposure the wires to air corrosion over years .same for your wingo connects. A large trainboard often has 200 connections to track, building lights, operating accessories using 18 volts. What do you suggest us train guys use. Gary
For light fixtures I always use the WAGO 224-101. Push in the solid from the box, and then use the 'pinch' for the stranded (or solid) going to the light. If i need the neutral to be a pass-thru, I use the 224-112 instead (which takes two solids on one side, and a stranded/solid on the other).
@@Reaktanzkreis I have also used those for years, when doing general electrical work. I find the 224 series smaller and work better for tight, overhead light fixtures. Also, because the wires are lined up, they can support light-weight fixtures without putting undue corner stress on the wires like the 221's would give you.
Wonderful presentation. I am a two time homeowner who does all my own electrical work. I have always dreaded installing light fixtures due to the challenge of connected the solid building wire to the stranded leads on the fixture. I am a perfectionist and early on I practiced over and over with scrap wire until I felt confident that I had the hang of making a good connection. Over the years, I also have tinned the bared ends of the stranded leads before twisting them with the solid wire. When the push-in connectors appeared on the market I had mixed feelings about them but went ahead and have used them in smaller light fixtures in my home. I always tinned the stranded wires before pushing them in. The latest connectors I used to install several motion sensor lights are made by Ideal and have a brass barrel and a set screw. You slip the bared ends of the wires in and tighten the set screw. Then you screw the plastic cap of the connection. They are reusable and are well made.
I don't understand this comment section. I mean I've hung literally thousands of lights/fans. I've been stoned. Ive been buzzed. Ive done it standing on hand rails. In the dark. I've taped an extension ladder to a step ladder Ive hung off the sides of houses and hung lights. In the rain. In crawlspaces with crickets and webs and shit. I've used wire nuts every time. They always work. Why do you all make shit so hard 😅
Thank you for this! I do a lot of my own electrical work - ok; I do almost all of my own electrical work. I've got a lot of experience with wire nuts, professionally in the two-way radio business, and amateurly in home electrical, but these look so much more reliable and easy I am going to give them a try, and if my experience matches yours, they'll be my new go to on my new house build.
The reason the levers are initially lose is so you can get a grip of them. My first encounter with wago connecters left me a little puzzled because a didn't realize how much pressure was required to open the levers..
Great and comprehensive video! Thank you 😊 My new pieces have many, small AC bulbs. The WAGO makes it easy to attach all those different components to house ac. Also CONFIDENCE that all connections are tight and clean.
Excellent video. I always felt more comfortable pre-twisting my stranded around my solid. I make sure the stranded protrudes 1/8" or so past the solid, so I know it will be the first thing grabbed and properly wound around by the wire nut. Just me. Ditto on Wagos. Over-the-top excellent. I would would caution DIYers to avoid cheap imitations that are not UL tested and approved, as are Wagos. The few dollars you save are not worth risking your home or family. I've actually never been able to a UL knockoff.
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My dad worked as a mechanical engineer for Ideal Industries around 1970 and holds the patent for putting the spring inside of the wire nut. As a boy, we had hundreds of these wire nuts that were prototypes. We took a vacation that routed near Connecticut where there was a spring manufacturing plant that made the spring that used a wire that wasn't round but rather had edges to help "bite" the wire. I think of my dad every time I use a wire nut.
Wow, great story, now I might be thinking of your Dad when I twist a wire nut!
That's actually pretty awesome.
Was it Spirol Industry?
I designed a specialty tool which industrial engineer will do a realization factor. Basically a man hrs for manufacturing. This was in avionics at a defense contractor the employee that submittal his idea gets a percentage of realization factor in man hrs saved building the company owns and holds the patent cause you worked on it on company time. But like I said you would recieved a suggestion check. A 2.2illion dollar system that you can knock 1 hr off the realization factor on a contract to build 2000 units with 400 spares would get you like 4 grand. Plus defense contracts go out to the manufacturer and a 2nd company building to specsm so really tools can be used on future contracts but never will pay you any more cause again they hold the patent they can do use or sell to othe company's vendors whom ever.
We would never useechanical connection on...mil spec wiring. Only mechanical connection would be a pin going in a Bendix connector using a inspectedcalibrated crimp tool and the extractor insertion tool. I'd wire 200 or more wires in a 10" x. 2" square box and make a cable with a bedix connector on the pig tail of cable
.some had twisted pairs for sheilding
Most did not
Glad to see you actually pointed out the real #1 mistake. Not pull testing every connection. Loose connections is probably the #2 cause when I get a call about a light not working. BTW the #1 cause, by an unquestionable lead... the lightbulb.
To build on your way of stripping, at first try pulling the insulation only about 2/3 off the wire, then twist using this small piece of insulation. This will make a more perfect twist and also prevent finger oils from getting on the wire.
Great tip!
I've done it this way for many years. Great share.
Great tip!!!
I'll definitely start doing that. I've always washed my hands before twisting the wires, to keep whatever filth I have on my fingers off the wires.
@@traines51 {(⁹
My boyfriend is an electrician, he was so impressed when I used the wire nut properly! Thanks!
electrical apprentice here. one of the task i have the hardest time with is bonding stranded copper to solid copper on fixtures and ceiling fans etc. this was great my man!! 👍🏽
I'm an experienced electrician and I recommend to bend the solid just a bit around 30⁰ on the tip about 1/8 in lenght so you can put your stranded wire then the wire nut and you'll see the difference...
@@MrSeth166 thanks buddy👍🏽 i’ll remember these methods for sure!
@@MrSeth166❤❤❤
Thank you!!! The WAGO connector was so wonderful!!! It made it so easy and too the guess work out of it. I'm a 73 year old female replacing a ceiling fixture myself. I tried it once using Marettes and it didn't work because they came apart when pushing the wires back up in the box. I'll never do it again with Marettes.
Was having trouble splicing the wires even when pushing the stranded wire up first. Yours is the first video recommending what looks like a much better alternative with the Wago 221. Thank you so much for this information. Don’t want to call an electrician for putting up a couple of wall sconces but also don’t want to risk my inexperience producing faulty work. Thanks again.
I saw a head to head load test on several different electric connectors and the wago did the best. Even better than the wire nut. Cool.
I'm 73 years old, and in my youth, wires were all solid not braided. One use to wrap the solid wires and cover them with electical tape. With the advent of wire nuts, one didn't have to wrap them, thus saving a bit of time. With the advent of braided wires, experienced professional electrians, always wraped with as you show, the braided being slightly ahead of the solid. But as you stated, the general DIY'ers, who were not trained. Just followed the wire nut manufactues guides.
You did solder them before you taped right?
I'm an electrician and i will tell you this much. Most wire strippers are made so that you MOST DEFINITELY will be trusting the tool at one point during the stripping of the wire. place the wire at an ANGLE to the opening for that size wire (listed as the AWG size on most wires). Once you close the blades of the wire stripper you SHOULD twist the tool, at least, until it is at a perpendicular angle to the wire. Then pulling the strippers at the cut and towards the short end of the wire. If the insulation doesn't come off easily then either the wire is old; damaged; or you used the wrong size opening on the strippers.
(Stranded wire is not "braided".) (What is "electical tape"?) A house built in 1948 used ceramic wire nuts, on tin-plated solid copper wire, with insulation that is now crumbling. (Have you looked into knob-and-spool wiring?)
The wrong1489 is so good fuxk the right ==1217B
@@quaztron hi depending where you are your insurance company may require that you stop using the " knob and Tube" wiring even to the point of having it removed. Which is a shame because for its time it worked well. And yes to stop using can mean rewiring the entire house but since the insulation is as you say crumbling . Yes you got a problem and you will need a professional electrician (who hopefully has dealt with this before) and yes time is a concern. Sorry let me know if I can help more
I would like to expand on your warning about the dangers of loose connections. Arcing is a symptom of a loose connection. A short is a zero resistance, high amperage fault which will trip a properly functioning over-current protection device. The real danger with a loose connection is the increased resistance which produces heat; enough to cause a fire. This is coming from a licensed electrician, electrical inspector and retired city fire department fire investigator who has investigated a multitude of electrical fires which resulted from a loose connection. Good information and explanation; especially liked display of the proper screwdrivers. Klein also sells the combination tip screwdriver bit.
From your experience what would you recommend in these "Wago's"?
I've seen multiple of these that comes in light fixtures and I had emergency calls because lights went out when I go and find on these "Wago's" with overheating marks on the wires caused by high resistance...
I wouldn't recommend these "Wago's", me personally don't use them on my own work and if they come in the fixtures I cut them out and use wire nuts...
@@MrSeth166 I'm not an electrician but a contractor, and MY experience with the WAGO's is that after a while my AFCI outlets start tripping. When I take the WAGO's out and twist the wires together instead, the problem disappears.
I have asked EVERY electrician I have come in contact with, and as a contractor that is a lot more than the average DIY'er, and NONE will use much less recommend a WAGO and like you cut them off whenever they are working around them.
Yet in Europe I've heard they use them more than a twist........ go figure.
You covered this very well! Kudos to you mentioning the Pull Test! Just a couple of extra quick tips; Tool Wise, since 1973, if Klein made it, I bought it. Period. I still have original Klein tools in my pouch and I retired in 2015. Also, the largest issue with solid copper I found is that it is smooth. The flexible wire just slides right off. I used to knurl up the solid wire a little with my plier jaws so the flexible wire has something to grab onto. This offered me a superior mechanical bond. I also bear down hard when I twist wire nuts and I never had a failure. Not one! I see too many newbies who don't use enough torque on wire nuts. Crank Em' Down! Cheers!
Cheers !
He also used a wire nut that was too big for the application ( 2 #14 solid wire minimum on the one he had). That’s usually the cause of most problems.
@@huejanus5505 - Excellent point Hue! That's also one of the benefits to really cranking down on the wire nut. If it's the wrong size, it will just slip!
@@huejanus5505 - Also a very good reason that WAGO should be required for any non solid to solid wire bonds.
My dad was a Master electrician for nearly 40 years, and always swore by his pouch full of Klein tools!
One of the best, if not THE best DIY videos I've ever viewed. The clarity of this tutorial is absolutely perfect for my needs.
As a tradesman myself I have to say.... bravo!! I am a CNC specialist and I see a lot of things that diy'ers do that I want to correct them on. Not for the purpose of degrading them, but to share information that I have become very good at. That being said, I have a REALLY hard time grasping the knowledge of electrical. I can't remember how I found this video because I put it in my watch later list, but it's made me a subscriber and I look forward to watching the rest of your videos.
24 years machining and repair, 6 years ago i made the leap to electrical. Journeyman in 3 years, due to my attention to details and print comprehension, leadman already.
Glad you mentioned "pre-twist" which is probably in the top 3 reasons for connector failure. For DIYers you are correct on the WAGO's they will save your from mistakes made by not having a good feel for the connection. Wagos are fine on federal jobs so they meet code requirements anywhere.
Thanks for the feedback John 👍
I always lead with stranded. Common sense. But pros make many stupid mistakes. That's why I became a diy person in the 1st place. And I can't tell you how many times I had my car so-called repaired by a professional mechanic and they messed it up worse than when I brought it in. So for the past 30 years I've been fixing my own cars. Anytime I can't fix it, believe me the pros are going to be like oh you got to get a new car this is totaled. In my experience Pros are pretty useless. Even when they do electrical work I have to watch them and then afterwards fixed their stupid mistakes but of course I don't tell them because I don't think they can handle the criticism. I just smile and even give them a tip and never call them again.
@@JourneyOnLife I agree and live by the adage "If you want something done right, do it yourself" with help from YT videos like this one of course.
Kudos to you. I have never looked at my wire strippers and noticed that one side said stranded and the other said solid. So I have learned something today. I thank you for that! I was good with the rest already.
Same!
Bravo. You are very professional. And an excellent demonstration. Camera. Sound. Description. speed. Script. All PERFECT.
Very good. Another wiring nut method that I use when putting stranded and solid wires together is tinning the stranded wire tip with solder before twisting conductors with the wire nut . I think the Wago 221 method should be ok for low current applications because the contact area between the connectors and the connector tabs is not enough. I particularly don't like snap-in connections when handling a high current.
Either it needs to be good for the full rated current of the circuit, or needs to not be used. Fortunately, it IS good for the full rated current, and your assertion that is is only "OK for low current applications" is complete BS.
Great video!
When stripping wire, I usually use the thumb of my hand that's holding the wire as a kind of fulcrum against the stripper to help push the stripper off the wire.
Great information. I’ve also notice from experience that if you push the stranded higher than the solid wire as to where the stranded catches first in the wire nut it will grab good and won’t come apart.
Yes. This is 100% accurate
So grateful for your video tutorials. A friend asked me to help her install several outdoor fixtures. Just before I went to her home, I had to check on Wago connectors and how quickly Amazon would deliver. Not fast enough so I searched your video to again learn which wire was to be extended when using a wire nut. Stranded wire - approximately 1/8" above the solid wire. I have said this to myself so many times in the last 12 hours that I will never forget! We got the lights hung before her husband got home and had a ball DIYing together. She is an inside crafty person and a terrific electrical assistant! No disrespect to men intended but as suspected, he didn't notice the new lights. Maybe today? Thanks, again! Have a blessed day.
Pro tip. If you treat every electrical repair as if the power was still on you can’t go wrong. I’ve had people turn breakers on while I was working on circuits and have turned the wrong circuit off myself. No contact testers are great but again even when I know the power is off I handle wires carefully. You can get feedback voltage through neutrals from other circuits. When in doubt call an electrician. I’ve done many repairs where homeowners did the work wrong or they “had a guy” do it wrong for them. With 40 years experience as an electrician when I try and rush a job is when mistakes are made.
Simple solution use tag outs on the breaker 👌
I just flip the breaker and test the wires. My primary safety technique is doing only one job a day and doing it slowly. Since it's my own house and I am not being paid for it, I don't have to rush.
Like drilling a bore hole and feeling unnecessary resistance only to find out after looking on the other side of the stud, you are boring through a stapled 220 line...I've slowed down
😂😂😂 turn power on yeah that's actually not funny yes I been there to..120 volts don't feel that good between your fingers...
@@cappiece3786 Paper and Clip types are a no go around Retarded tenants that pull them, even locks get cut by the occasional entitled one. I lock-out Tag-out and work like it's live.
Those wago connectors are fantastic. Did my first diy job today and extended an outlet. These made it so easy
Hard to find in Canada at the local supply houses.
@@danlux4954 I had to order on Amazon
You are absolutely correct on buying the Wago connector instead of the traditional. I bought some wire nuts that I used about 1/4 of the cheap plastic container the it developed cracks and collecting dust. I would rather pay more and probably save money in the long run. Well made video. Thank you for sharing
Thanks Hassan, I agree for us DIYers Wago lever nuts are hard to beat 👍
I've seen wirenuts last literal decades. You must've bought some seriously cheap ones. Let me guess, were they commercial electric brand?
@@TheMinecraftACMan No! What I am trying to say is that homeowners don’t need a 1000 wire nuts. They are still good but the holding container cracked and will never use the rest in my lifetime. They are not cheap. I bought them from the Home Depot.
@@hassanbazzi3545 Oh, you mean like the number you buy, gotcha. You can get like a small bag of them I think. Not 100% sure cause I buy them in bulk for work, lol.
@@TheMinecraftACMan I hear you. I am just a simple homeowner. I think for a person like me the Wago nuts are ideal
I am new to your channel. You are an excellent presenter! Great communication skills with just the right speed pattern in your voice. You also seem to care about teaching your audience and not just rushing through the video to get it done and uploaded. Thank you!
When I was taught 45years ago, I was to pre-twist connections until there was a good mechanical bond, and they would not easily pull apart without a nut, then add the nut. Now I use ferrules whenever possible and then the push in connectors. Ill be adding some of these Wagu to my stock
A perfectly installed wing nut is slightly superior to a WAGO, mostly because of cost. Drive by a builder-grade new neighborhood, and just guess at how many of the tens of thousands of wire nuts there are installed perfectly? The genius of a WAGO is it takes some of the human error out of the equation, which makes it valuable to homeowners, DIYers, and contractors with lazy employees. Blessings!
@@PatrickKQ4HBD "just guess at how many of the tens of thousands of wire nuts there are installed perfectly?"
None? I'd bet they all look like hammered dogshit and have taken twice as long to terminate.
To many crappy electrician’s are now using push in style Wago’s
Leaving massive shiners or exposed conductor’s passed the connector.
For this reason I cannot stand wago’s
The lever type aren’t to bad though.
Bit the push in style suck “for the next guy”
When I come to a job and have to fix your fuck ups that’s when it becomes a problem.
@@didlydane420 lol literally blaming poor workmanship on the tools.
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I use WAGO connectors all the time. When hanging light fixtures, they allow me to do a lot of the connections prior to lifting a heavy light and then fumbling with one hand. They cost a little more than nuts, but for the average homeowner, they make wiring life much easier and foolproof.
Where can I buy those are the in the USA
Nothing beats wire nuts for cost and, as a pro electrician, that's the driving factor. I use thousands of them every year, and replacing them with Wago would be a significant cost increase that I would have no choice but to pass on to the customer. That being said, there is one place I always use Wago: when working overhead. Especially in recessed can fixtures. At 63, the less time I spend on top of a ladder with my hands overhead, the better. Wago is probably not enough faster to mitigate the cost differential, but my body really appreciates them at the end of a long day.
I also use my Ideal Stripmaster wire stripper when doing can lights. Being a union electrician, I took some heat on this but grew tired of cutting my knuckles and fingers on the sharp edged J boxes mounted on can lights.
@@garrythompson4132 I feel your cut knuckles brother. Got the scars to prove it.
Ehhh, the cost is mitigated by how quick you can connect using Wago. Not to mention it's almost fool-proof when it comes to how its used. Never liked the wire nuts.
@@NorseGraphic As I said, I use 1000's every year. Wago is 5 to 10 times more expensive per use. I would therefore have to be able to use at least 5 wagos in the time I can twist one wire nut. I assure you that's not true. Properly applied, both are great. For a non-pro, Wago is the better choice since they have almost no learning curve.
Not as good as Wago cage clamp terminals
I think the WiFi switch I installed a few months ago is all right, but doubt is creeping in. I'll redo the job tomorrow just to be absolutely certain. Thanks for shaking my confidence...seriously...thanks.
As an electrician, I see a lot of videos on the internet giving people wiring advice. Many give incorrect or bad advice. The information in this video is correct. I've used the Wago's for years.
They are great. And the advice here about pull testing and leading the solid with the stranded is spot on. Extra points for mentioning the difference in gauge sizes between solid and stranded.
Best DIY advice i ever received for electrical work. Step 1: call a certified Electrician.
Yes, that, but tell me if this little trick isn't a goodie:
I learned years back on stripping SOLID wire to a) choose the proper slot, then b) angle the cutter slightly, squeeze, square it to the wire, then pull the sheathe straight off.
I find that this breaks the adhesion and makes it easy to pull off. If you choose, say, the 14g slot for a 12g wire, you'll possibly have the wire break at the cut.
@@garychandler4296 That's interesting. I'll have to try it.
2 minutes in and I learned about the different numbers on the stripper for the first time. Great video! Saving to my favorites.
I'm a licensed electrician myself. Wires don't move by themselves inside walls and ceilings. Not unless you're house is in a tornado or earthquake 😅. I wouldn't worry about this video much. Just make sure everything is secure and safe. When l wire with caps l wrap electrical tape tightly around the caps, wire. 👍
I had a rat run wire all over the place.. Nutting on my wife to.. I fired him!!
Bought these after watching your video. These are fantastic and left a lot of extra room in the box. What a great find…thank you.
Nice video. I've never been a fan of wire nuts, but I always twist and never had a failure. I grew up using a Buchanan crimper, but it is hard to find the sleeves for it. Wagos look slick but feel like the Shark Bite connector of electricity.
Wow - thank you for your videos! I never understood why wire strippers had numbers on each side. Thank you for making the electrical less mysterious.
Yeah been using Wagos for ever, very popular back home in the UK. When a electrician came to my job he noticed wagos and asked about them he really liked the dinrail mount clips, he had never seen them before. They really clean up a control box and make testing, fault finding or replacement so much easier. US Inspectors are a little unsure of them and ask to see specific details. Great video
The same principle of using levers in Wago is also used in light-fixtures, as manufacturers moves away from screw-connectors. They're so much easier. You want to disconnect, just push in the lever and pull out the wire. The spring will keep it in place when you release the lever.
Works great for small diameter, like up to maybe 4mm², haven't seen anything that can handle more than 2.5mm² so far though.
At least in the company I work for we use spring loaded stuff only for the control circuit, everything power related is screwed in place firmly.
Great video.. I learned the hard way myself with splicing stranded to solid core wire and had to figure out myself to lead with the stranded wire higher than the solid core to get the nut to bite both wires and bond them securely. Good that you explained this thoroughly so everyone can understand what can go wrong will and to eliminate said variables
How many houses did you burn down before you learned?
Wago's are the best. I love the lever nut ones, use the grey ones for years, mainly for bench tests and quick connects for testing and the 221's all around the house since they are much smaller. Personally load banked many of wago components to many times their current rating and literally see the wire insulation drip off before the wago components even discolor, incredible company.
I just had a wago fry in a drop in trougher fixture service call, wagos are to be avoided at all cost.
@@BigislandEJ highly doubtful the wago connector itself caused that, probably a bad installation or overcurrent
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I have 1 hand and have installed probably over 100 fixtures for myself and friends and wire nuts are a pain in the butt for me because I have to get everything lined up in vice grips and put the wing nut in the drill and stop the drill after tight but before it spins the vice grips and twists the insulated part together and risk over heating. Using the drill will make a 2 handed persons life MUCH easier also because it will allow you to get good firm consistent pressure and then even twist rate but I recommend holding the insulated side of the wire with a pair of pliers
Try stripping like this: Cut the insulation with the correct size hole then move the wire to the next larger hole and pull off the insulation there. (But before I pull off the cut insulation I put the cutting edge 1/8" to 1/4" closer to the end). The slightly larger cutting hole prevents scraping or nicking the copper and the cutting edge grabs the insulation instead of just pushing it so sometimes it slides off easier.
Hey look... actual good information
NEVER TWIST THE NUT WITH SOLID OVER STRANDED, YOU WANT STRSNDED OVER SOLID.. I DONT KNOW YOU TAUGHT YIU THAT BUT ITS COMPLETELY WRONG
Do you do this with the common pliers-style stripper or a Katapult?
😮😮
Jjjjnm
Appreciate your showing the proper way to connect solid & wire strand.
Here in Australia, the "Twist nuts" are not allowed (as far as I know), we use "bp1's and bp2's" , Clipsal 563B screw cable connectors. Wires twisted together, then put into the connector and the side screw screwed in. The "bp2"s" have 2 side screws used for earth wires.
DIYers are illegal in Australia too.
I am cringing watching this and reading the comments.
@@greggilmour3482 You cant replace a light fixture yourself in Australia?
Yep already know these just wanted to add if you are concerned about the levers a single loop of electrical tape across them os all it takes to prevent them fully opening. I have used both methods and connections in this video. The newer connections are definitely nicer and easier but both work very well when used appropriately.
K koo 999 o.o
an electrician showed me to wrap a few rounds of electrical tape around the wires than wrap the wire nut, it won't come apart. wagos are cool new technology haven't used them yet but will give a try on next diy project.
Great vid on wirenutting solid to stranded.
Regarding the Milwaukee knife, I used to use them all the time. It fits in the hand. What I do not like about them is the location of the blade release. Many times I would accidentally push the release button while cutting and the blade would come out. For that reason I quit using those knives. I now just use the Home Depot Rigid folding utility knives. They do not fit in the hand as well as the Milwaukee, but the blade release has no issue.
Wow, I did not know about Wago before and I was putting on a light high in the ceiling and it was a very awkward position and I could not install with the regular connections. When I seen you video, I ordered from Amazon and I had them delivered to me the next day. The next day, I made the connections very secure and the light was firmly installed. Wow, this is an amazing product and I would paid 10 times the amount for such a great product.
Couple comments.. thank you for making the distinction between LEVER and push ins. Do not use push ins, especially with stranded, for so many reasons I won’t list. Just don’t. But Levers are fantastic, they handle load and heat just fine and are a great option for diy’ers that have trouble splicing. With regard to splicing stranded to solid.. I prefer to twist the stranded around solid before using wire nut but.. one of the simplest and best tricks a 30 year journeyman taught me thankfully early on. Strip the solid a touch longer than normal. Then use your pliers to zig zag the stripped copper from insulation to end. Then wrap the stranded. Then use the wire nut. Easily best practice from my knowledge. Enjoy your channel keep posting!
This is the way, always pretwist your conductors together, do not rely on the wire nut to do that for you guys, I was always taught in school to pretwist conductors, it's the proper way.
I knew about the Wago connectors; but I did learn something. The wire nut tip taught me - thanks!
Love Wago stuff. We're actually transitioning away from wire nuts and and push-in connectors to Wago because they're vastly more fool proof and generate a consistent sprung connections.
Wagos suck, plain and simple
My choice: Wago for Lights, LED lighting + intercoms.
Ferrules for wall outlets, air conditioners, floor heating, stoves + geysers.
Resin joints for Out Buildings, pumps & underground
@@rhinehartspindler3445 with no reason why?
DIYer. Thank you for the video. I did know to pull on the wires to test the connection, but never knew about the technique you showed with shorting the solid wire just a little when using that wing nut. Thanks again
Your tips were spot on for me a DIYer (I just hung 6 lights including a chandelier by myself):
▪️ I hate stripping wire - didn't have the correct equipment. Once I simply cut the end of the wire off and stripped it, everything was so much easier. *Stripping the wire and just starting over with clean fresh wire is the thing to do.* It saves so much time.
▪️ I can't wait to use the Wago 221s in the future, but I went to two stores that had the Wago 221's in stock on the web site, but unfortunately when I got there, there were not any. Instead I got the Ideal brand similar connector, but I can tell you, they do not work the same and I would not use them again. Ideal worked well with solid wires, but I had a hard time getting the stranded wires inserted and the stranded wires kept coming out; therefore, I had to revert back to using wire nuts on two ceiling lights I installed. Also, I got the three wire connectors, because I knew some junction boxes had same colored 3 wires connected through a wire nut.
One benefit I found with the Wago 221 style wire connectors is that because I was installing multiple lights, I removed all of the existing lights at the same time because the circuit was already off and then I put the Wago style wire connectors on the exposed wires coming from the junction boxes. This made mounting the lights at least feel faster and easier because I only had to insert the light's wires into the wire connector that was already in place and waiting on the light. This kept my hands free since I did all of this by myself.
▪️ Having the stranded wire sticking out further than the solid wire and then using the wire nut as you recommended is the only way to go. The wire nuts gripped the stranded and survived a pull test.
It's funny how when you do things the right way, the right way is much easier.
Thanks for the great video
Thanks for recommending the wago. I bought some online at Home Depot and they were great for my outdoor light fixture.
I work for an OEM Control Panel Builder, Our Control Shop uses the Wago Lever nuts on the handful connections that would normally require a wire nut where there would not be terminal blocks, eg. small junction boxes, MAC solenoid air valves. They have reduced quality issues and are just in general pretty awesome. In the industrial world Wago is a relatively well known company that produces some really good IO cards, bus couplers, terminal blocks etc.
Another sponsored comment
@@mouldyboats Nah Friend, just an overworked relay jockey whom calls it like he sees it. Of course, what do I know? In my own opinion as far as addressing remote IO. Wago wins hands down compared, to Allen Bradley, Schneider Electric, B&R, and Phoenix Contact Equivalents. But I will say that I do Like Phoenix Contacts Terminal Blocks and wire management panel stuff, Weildmuller stuff isn't bad either. and I still like Wago Lever nuts too. *Edit* I have enough work with the global shipping and parts shortages.. and my writing skills are not up to par with being paid to talk about what i like on TH-cam.
I had heard a benefit to using wago
Was it is recommended every time that wire nut comes off you must peel new wire? Is that true, because I’ve been guilty of replacing light switches not using new wire and using the same wire nut but it seems right.
I noticed that when you used your wire strippers, you had to use a fair amount of force to pull/strip the insulation off the wire. Although I don’t own the nice pair of strippers you use, I did develop a technique that makes the pulling off the insulation a lot easier (with my cheaper strippers). Basically, I would use the stripper to initially cut the insulation, then slightly relax my grip on the handle while pulling the insulation off. I found that when I maintained the same force/grip while pulling it would take way too much force. Just my two cents. I seem to recall this works for both stranded and solid wires, with slightly better results on solid wires.
I used the same method, its effortless. also holding the wire in the palm of your grip and using the thumb to lever against the stripper gives you massive leverage.
Today I learned: not every does it this way.
@@haydenjones1559 Thumb method is the way to go.
Another advantage of Wagos is that because the wires are not all twisted around each other they're much easier to take on/off and figure out what's happening in the circuit (take one wire out, see where it comes from, what still has current, put it back in, etc). When I replaced some zone valve motors on my heating system I replaced all the wire nuts in the junction box with Wagos, and it was much much easier to follow the circuits after doing so (and will be much easier the next time I have to replace a zone valve motor).
Love it
This is absolutely the beast of excellent work quality oftentimes. I remember when I worked on the electrical in cars before becoming a residential electrician. The Hondas and Chevrolet interior panels were much cheaper looking and feeling but man did they come off quick and easy. The Mercedes and Porsche panels, the exact opposite. They looked great and were solid and sturdy but pain in the butt to remove.
The point of the twist is a having a redundant string mechanical connections. I don't see how traceability is an issue in most electrical enclosures. This is like saying you rather have a car put together with bolts and screws instead of welds and rivers because it's may just be easier to fix when you crash. I hope the priority here is strong electrical connection for safety and effective device operation.
And have a test port for your meter probes
@BB backstabbing a receptacle is also CSA approved, yet you are bound to find a few switches and receptacles that have failed in a house after a decade or so from repeated stress. This is the same type of mechanism with Wago. The only Advantages that Wago will have (at least what I can think of) are 1. time saved and 2. in very specific instances, you need to replace one device while the circuit is still hot for control applications. This is how I do things and this is how I tell people how I do things. I don't think that, "relax, it's certified" is a reassuring thing to tell your customer. There are many "certified" things that are stupid. Maybe wagos are good for homegamers that can't form a proper twist, but for professionals... To me at least... It's sketchy as hell.
I just started using the Wagos. When your doing larger jobs it's a time saver. A little more money but they are awesome to use. I've used wire nuts for 40yrs.
Great video on stranded wire. Also the WAGO push down connector is perfect for me when I wire outlets with 12 gauge wire and sometimes split off another one or two wires for an exterior outlet or additional outlets on a side wall, etc. Then the 5 wire WAGO connector is perfect.
Even though I particularly don't need this video, it is good advice to those who don't. Anxious to see how you go about it. ......
Never knew i was doing the wire nut connection wrong. Thank you.
You bet 👍
Very important tip while joining dissimilar gauge and type of wires. Thank you
Better to rotate/wiggle the wire strippers to cut the insulation all the way around to fully cut the insulation at the gap, then pull it off. I always twist tight the stranded wire around the solid with pliers, leaving a little stranded wire sticking forward to insure the wire-nut grabs it. I used the 5-hole Wago lever connectors in under-dash wiring my classic cars, such as to distribute IGN and ACC sources. They began in industrial wiring, but became more affordable after spreading to home wiring.
Auto strippers
I have started soldering stranded wires ends before putting together with wire nuts, it works very well and only takes a moment!
I use to work for one of the largest wire nut manufacturers in their lighting division. All of our lighting products were built using Wago connectors!
Wago connectors are also great if you have to work with live wires, the risk of accidental electrocution is much less than twisting a wire nut... That's insane even if you're a pro.
You're correct never pre-twist, as you said let the nut do the work!
Wago is a German company so it is definitely not pronounced Way-go.
The way he pronounces it in this video isn't correct either. If you want to know how anything is pronounced correctly check the TH-cam channel of the manufacturer.
For years I've pre twisted the wires into frustration. Now I know the correct way too!
@@Jehty_ thanks, I removed the comment.
That's excellent! Thank you for posting. ( It would help if you showed the PACKAGING that those lever connectors come in. )
I had to sign a waiver that stated whatever you designed belonged to the company. I designed HUNDREDS of tools, jigs, work stands, lifting rigs for crane operations, test equipment, procedures, safety application tools and procedures, etc. for over 35 years. I got 3 awards in that time. The main thing, I made a positive change to the world! The company, I'm sure, patented all of it and made it available to order by giving it its own class & item number for all the other shops.
Your Daddy was smart enough to bypass the waiver...or possibly, they didn't have one then. I signed mine in 1975. I HAD TO in order to work for them! It ain't right, but they like to think that they OWN YOU !!! They keep you down, and morale ain't the best, but its a job worth putting up with the bosses' bosses', bosses, bosses 💩!
Thanks - that has always driven me nuts! I would pull on the wires and it would fall apart sometimes, work others. I never made the connection between the stranded being ahead of the solid.
I've used wire nuts forever, but the Wago type connector would be very beneficial when stuffing the wires back into the box. I am always worrried about the wire nuts not holding with all the bending and stuffing necessary to put the switch on or whatever. These seem to be more secure in a number of ways.
I have actually had wires pop out of the Wago lever nuts when pushing wires back into the box. So they are not perfect.
I don't know if this is CORRECT or not but I will wrap electric tape around the wire nuts and down the wires a short distance to help them hold better when having to push into a tight junction box.
@@workingman9745 Yea that's how they were designed to be. Also outlets are supposed to have wrapped tape around them. Also USA's method of installing the outlets so they are like "smiley faces" is upside down, ground should always be up to take the weight, you'll see it in hospitals and other places that don't hire tiny brained/fat/lazy electricians. Electricians that do homes etc are bottom barrel last picks.
@Working Man I don't like using electrical tape for things like that because it doesn't last very long and the wires just get covered with the sticky glue.
@@kyungrix1112 rubber electrical tape lasts like 30 years..
Phenomenal Presentation!
I learned 2 things. Even though I've done a lot of DIY electrical work over the years.
1. The same gauge in solid & stranded wires are a different diameter.
2. The proper way to use a wire nut on a solid/stranded pair.
I have seen the WAGO connectors in other videos and are similar to low voltage connectors I've used in the past. But have not had a project to try them yet.
Buy them, you'll never use a wire nut again. I have been using Wago for a year and a half now, and don't even carry wire nuts anymore. I only deal with residential, so I don't have heavy gauge wire I need to deal with, mostly lights, outlets, gfi's, etc. And I love the Wagos now.
Use what you have. Just brush up your skill. You can also tin the stranded wire to make it behave as the solid wire.
Gardening spoken like a true electrician. I’m a professional electrician and I couldn’t care less if I’m using wagos or wire caps. My advice is to learn how to use both proficiently because they both have their pros and cons in the field.
@@esl4058 100% absolutely
Great explanation. And it is also nice to know my pull test when wiring light fixtures with wire nuts is correct.
You might find this interesting. In the (rented) trailer I live in, about a quarter of the outlets have ground connections that aren't grounded. And I wasn't able to locate the ground wires for those circuits in the breaker box. I plan to install some breakers with GFCIs, or get the land-lord to do it. I also found one outlet with reversed wires, which I fixed. Now, for the BIGGY! I almost SHAT, when I found one circuit that used the bare ground wire as the HOT! It was in Romex cable, so it didn't short out, but really! So I fixed that one. What sort of "ning-com-poops" did the wiring? Was it ever inspected?
Well done!!! Straight to the point and no off topic stuff. I hope you get some kick backs when I order stuff you recommend.
Hi, I use Wiedmuller automatic wire strippers, they are really good. As far as connection blocks, I consider Wago to be the professional choice not the DIY choice, those screw on yellow things look terrible.
As a professional electrician, those “screw on yellow things” are preferable as they lock in your splices and are designed for permanent connections. Wagos are good for situations where you may be swapping different fixtures in and out. The only thing I don’t like about wagos is that they tend to be inconsistent inside. As in, sometimes your conductors slide right in and other times it’s a fight to get them in. In times like those, it’s easier to make a splice and cap it with a wire nut so you can keep moving.
The weidmuller automatic stripper is amazing, but I pretty much only use it for stranded wires that need sleeves, particularly for automation work. Otherwise in my country we use small cable cutters for both cutting and stripping, only students, early apprentices and foreigners use proper stripping tools for general electric work.
As for Wagos, we pretty much exclusively use them. I think the only example I've found a use for wirenuts instead is if I'm connecting something like 3 heating cables together over a 4-pole breaker with a single power supplying cable. In which case I use the wirenut to connect the neutral point because it has more surface area and a Wago will melt down over time (even though you'll measure 0 amps running through that wire).
Yeah...Wagos are useful in certain applications, mainly in tight boxes, but if you have the space use the better way. Wagos are not code compliant for all applications.
Thank you! Perfect info since I need to change a kitchen light fixture in my kitchen to a disk LED. Much appreciated!! I just used your link to add the Starter Kit to my Amazon cart.
I've used something similar to the Wago's before called an Alumiconn connector. Basically the same principle, but they use a set screw to tighten down the wire instead of a lever. They work great for when your house is wired with aluminum, but the wire you're connecting to is copper. However, I might give the Wago's a try after seeing how much easier they are to use 👍
Wagos are great for mixed strand/solid connections. I still can't bring myself to use them when pigtailing receptacles or single phase motors, but in small wire big wire applications, they are a must. Their ratings are not a joke either.
I've used Alumiconn and Polaris insuli-tap connectors in industrial applications for years.. nothing quite as good as that for when used on very high amperage applications. Motors pulling hundreds of amps etc.
As a 15 year commercial electrical foreman you did a wonderful job showing how wagos are properly used. One thing on your technique in stripping wire. It’s a 3 step process. Close the stripper fully to cut the shielding completely, release the pressure to roughly 80-90%, THEN pull the shielding off. If you keep it completely closed it will scrape along the copper and make it hard to strip. I keep wagos on the truck because sometimes you come behind DIY’S that have done a bad job and left short connections in a box and you can’t twist the connections properly.
Great info Juan - when you apprentice to a journeyman, or better, a master, you watch them make very short work of tasks that can confound you. There have to be tens of millions of techniques and tips that aren't being passed on to this generation for a wide variety of reasons. Thanks for the comment. 🙂
Thank you for this video. I just replaced the light fixture in my bedroom and this has me confident that I did it correctly. At least the wires lol.
When assembling 1 solid and 1 stranded using a wire nut - first not necessary to strip off 3/4" of insulation. Less is more! Read the instructions provided by the manufacturer too, always helpful!
One wire nut 1 stranded one solid - assemble the wires side by side with the stranded about an 1/8" above the solid, tighten with your wirenut.
Again, ALWAYS read the manufacturer recommended assembly. Never fails to work correctly!
today have world biggest fail use wire nut connection because have lot lot more better connection in shop can buy, and lot safety too, wire nut not have good not safe
WAGO' 221 are AWESOME! Thank you so much for the recommendation.
Dang. If only I’d known about this from the first time I struggled with a solid wire/stranded wire connection putting up a ceiling fan. In 1985. I now have a conscience which is nagging me to return to every place I lived and places where friends lived that I installed various fans, sconces, ceiling fixtures and chandeliers over the ensuing years. That number (as well as I can remember) is about 85 installations. I thought I had learned everything I needed to know when I found my first Vaco stripper. Thanks for the update.
Great video as always. You make sure you are clear In how you explain things and always provide evidence to support your statements. Good to know I've been doing this right all along. I used to build test circuits in school and we would have to test them with more than just power on and off. Connectors had to get a tug test as well as an overload test to make sure they worked right and I learned early on that stranded goes first to get a better connection.
First of all, you should hire a professional electrician. Fixtures wires can be of any guage, as they are a listed product. No terminations on the branch circuit side of you home should be of less that 12awg. So the wires in the wall have to be a minimum of 12awg. They should be sized according to the load as per NEC 310.15 (b) 16 in the 75°c column. That being said, I take the solid wire and bend it into a zig zag shape. Then take linesman pliers and twist the stranded around the solid before twisting the wire nuts on.
@@joelpruitt5959 I've never once hired a "professional electrician" to do my job. My job is literally fixing homes for a living and I can't count the number of screw ups I've had to fix from "professionals" who did shotty work. That's why we call them vendors or contractors in my field because at least half the time they aren't professionals. I've seen so many "professionals" wire a gfci wrong that I have little faith in them. Not to say all electricians are bad, but all the local ones around me save a few most certainly are. Some plumbers are just as bad. Half of them don't even know how to transition from. Copper to plastics (pex, pvc, ect) and I've seen them install shark bites wrong. Those are like the simplest thing to install. But like I said, not all are bad at what they do. I know a few who could work blind folded in a dark room and still do flawless work. But those guys are few and far now days.
@@TheSlimCognito LMAO. Well bless your heart.
Thanks for your video. I just bought the Wago 2 and 3 wire connectors. They are really nice for the DYI guy like me.
💯
There is a lot of confusion with inspectors too, so I would stay clear of these things unless you have lots of spare time to prove them wrong.
Oh wow. I have a few lighting fixtures that I need to redo! Thanks!!
I'm almost certain I've made that mistake with solid and stranded wire before. This video convinced me that I should switch to Wago connectors anyway. I'm a DIYer so the price difference is unimportant given how few I need to buy.
Thanks for this. Very good. When buying a wire stripper a few more dollars spent always pays off. And forget the strippers that come in a cheap kit. I've had problems stripping stranded wire when using very cheap wire strippers. With some strippers I learned to cut the wire in the correct gauge size but then insert the wire into the next larger gauge size to pull off the insulation. This tends to work when strands are being torn off with the insulation.
The first method is good but lacks one step that most electricians don’t know. Before you put the two wires together you twist the stranded wire counter clockwise. This means that when you tighten the wire nut clockwise it’s not unraveling the stranded. This is also true for wire nutting two stranded wires. If you twist both wires this way, by hand you can twist the wires and it will be the neatest stranded wire connection. Trim your wires a little long so after you twist them you can cut the end off a little for a clean tip. I have used stranded for many commercial jobs and have never had to look for shorts when this method is used.
If you are facing the bare copper end on, then you must wrap the wires clockwise as this is what you will do with the wire nut in order to tighten it. If you wrap the wires counter clockwise then turning the nut on clockwise will unravel your wires.
@@haroldkline4898 no I’m saying that before you twist the two wires together you twist each individual wire counter clockwise. Then you twist the two wires together clockwise. You’ll notice when you twist the two wires together how much neater the splice will be. Trust me I was an electrician for almost 40 years. I learned how to do this from a navy master chief. I was in the Seabees. Try it if you have some scrap wire laying around. Plus the joint is much stronger. I learned that when I was eighteen and used it to impress electricians that had decades more time in the trade than me.
@@haroldkline4898 ps this is if your facing the wire with the end facing you. The individual wires counter clockwise before you twist the two together and twisting the two wires together clockwise
@@haroldkline4898 sorry I was talking about two stranded wires. The way I was taught to take stranded to solid is just as you said. Still if you strip your stranded long and twist it clockwise with your wire pliers then cut the end to the extra length to go past the solid it will have less of a tendency to unravel and short. Sorry. I certainly wasn’t trying to attack the competency of the video. Compared to most videos I’ve seen this one gives more knowledge of the problems associated with using stranded wire. This is a guy who actually worked hands on with his subject matter. He’s shows that he’s not a guy who just worked at Home Depot in the electrical aisle
@@deweyplanck9850 I noticed some of the stranded wires in fixtures is twisted counter clockwise and wasn’t sure if that was in the design.
this is a pretty good stuff to hear. Mine favourite cable connectors are WAGO too. Only the problem is they are way more expensive than regular cable connectors. Too bad!
All these years I've been using wire nuts and have never seen the Wagos, probably because I wasn't looking for them. But I think you've sold me on them and will probably start using them on future projects. Thanks for a great video.
Love those new connectors, wish they were around when I was doing home repairs. They started coming available about the time I retired.
Thanks for the information, just ordered the pocket set. I have wired for decades and can easily see that they are superior, especially in small volume boxes! I also use a scissor like stripper by Klein, but it only has two different scales, only for solid.
They are an inferior product. Wagos belong in cereal boxes.
Thanks, I have always "pre-twisted" but did not know about starting stranded wire first. Do now.
Central California Watching
Electrician here: you made it very clear that you're talking to diyers and on that note I think you did a great job with this video. The only problem was how you explained stripping the wire. Start off by holding your strippers at a 45° angle on the wire, bite down on the wire, then start to move your strippers to a 90° while applying pressure pulling the insulation off. For solid this simple movement will get the insulation flying off easily, but for stranded, I do this method then once the copper is exposed move straight to clamping down on the insulation itself and pulling off like you showed. Sometimes stranded will come straight off and cool, but most of the time you're going to fight it the whole way off so just move to pulling the insulation off with the pliers right away.
Throw wire strippers out. Razor knife or pop with Kliens . Third generation electrician here.
Man you never want to hold your strippers at that angle, it’ll cut into the copper weakening it, in aviation or military applications that’ll get you fired for good reason, best is said above razor knife or thumb and scissors…. Best is rotary strippers, but extremely expensive and probably not practical….
@@robertw1871 This is going to be a bit of a long explanation of why you're wrong about it damaging the copper, but bare with me. When fully closed, wire strippers have holes in them, multiple holes all with different diameters that correlate with different sizes of wire. Each whole is precisely the size of the copper in order to cut through all of the insulation while not cutting into the copper itself. Those measurements are taken with you holding your strippers exactly 90° relative to the wire. Now think of a right triangle. A horizontal line, a vertical line, and a diagonal line. The horizontal, let's think of this as the wire, makes a perfect 90° angle with the vertical line, let's think of this as the strippers, and then there's the diagonal line left. The wire is still completely flat, but now the strippers are at 45° angle relative to the wire. That diagonal line is mathematically proven to be longer than the other two sides. If the vertical line is shorter than the diagonal line, then that must mean that the strippers measurement of how thick the wire is is no longer correct. Holding your wire strippers at a 45° angle actually means you're not getting perfectly through the whole thickness of the insulation, therefore means it could never damage the copper seeing as to damage the copper the stripper has to go through the insulation in order to do so.
@@christopherperez6126 I understand, what you don’t know is that I’ve been doing this for over 30 years, for a substantial fraction of my career I’ve worked in failure analysis, and the root cause of most wireing failures is not using tools properly. I’m sure you’ve probably never had issues, but I’ll bet if you strip 50 wire then do an analysis under a microscope you’re going to find degraded structure, such as scratches and cuts left by the tool. Anytime a tool digs into the conductor it will weaken it, for household wireing it probably doesn’t matter 999 times of 1000, but I’ve found many broken conductors over the years traced back to this, and in more critical environments such as aviation or automotive where there’s vibration involved the failure rate jumps dramatically… I know what you’re saying and why it’s done this way, it’s because it’s easier to catch the insulation and drag it off the conductor when your at an angle digging into the copper, if you hold them straight it’s much more difficult as the insulation is still tightly bound to the core requiring more force… For this reason in critical applications the stripping tools have no cutting blades at all, the insulation is either mechanically separated from the core by tension, or it’s scored and peeled back resulting in zero damage to the conductor mechanically… even a small nick in the copper is a potential point of failure… is it a huge problem, no, but it’s not 100% correct either…. There’s a reason that some processes will not allow those types of tools to be used is all I’m saying… it’s just information…
@@christopherperez6126 except it decreases the distance between the two cutting edges across the wire not increases, holding at a 45 angle will increase you're chance of cutting the wire. that's why it feels easier coming off
As someone that builds\modifies his guitars constantly I think I'm going to start using these Wago connectors. 👍 Much cleaner than a big glob of solder that I'm struggling to keep together lol.
For that kind of job I would prefer to use screw terminal blocks. The Wagos will probably last for decades but the smaller contact area might be more prone to vibration. Soldering is fine too, you just need a bigger iron and maybe some small metal clamps to hold everything in place.
Remember the Wago is a bus bar, each pocket will connect to the next and is only meant to connect same function wires. (hot with hot, neutral with neutral, etc.)
In o gauge model railroading, we must often connect 2 stranded wires, usually a wire connected to a junction strip and onto a wire that leads to the train track. I never felt comfortable soldering the 2 wires together because you're usually under the trainboard. So I usually heat shrink wrap the 2 wires together. Dont wing nuts exposure the wires to air corrosion over years .same for your wingo connects. A large trainboard often has 200 connections to track, building lights, operating accessories using 18 volts. What do you suggest us train guys use. Gary
For light fixtures I always use the WAGO 224-101. Push in the solid from the box, and then use the 'pinch' for the stranded (or solid) going to the light. If i need the neutral to be a pass-thru, I use the 224-112 instead (which takes two solids on one side, and a stranded/solid on the other).
Look at the Wago 221. They are the type of terminals I use frequntly. They grip flex, solid and semi solid wires reliable
@@Reaktanzkreis I have also used those for years, when doing general electrical work. I find the 224 series smaller and work better for tight, overhead light fixtures. Also, because the wires are lined up, they can support light-weight fixtures without putting undue corner stress on the wires like the 221's would give you.
Wonderful presentation. I am a two time homeowner who does all my own electrical work. I have always dreaded installing light fixtures due to the challenge of connected the solid building wire to the stranded leads on the fixture. I am a perfectionist and early on I practiced over and over with scrap wire until I felt confident that I had the hang of making a good connection. Over the years, I also have tinned the bared ends of the stranded leads before twisting them with the solid wire. When the push-in connectors appeared on the market I had mixed feelings about them but went ahead and have used them in smaller light fixtures in my home. I always tinned the stranded wires before pushing them in. The latest connectors I used to install several motion sensor lights are made by Ideal and have a brass barrel and a set screw. You slip the bared ends of the wires in and tighten the set screw. Then you screw the plastic cap of the connection.
They are reusable and are well made.
I don't understand this comment section. I mean I've hung literally thousands of lights/fans. I've been stoned. Ive been buzzed. Ive done it standing on hand rails. In the dark. I've taped an extension ladder to a step ladder Ive hung off the sides of houses and hung lights. In the rain. In crawlspaces with crickets and webs and shit.
I've used wire nuts every time. They always work.
Why do you all make shit so hard 😅
Thank you for this! I do a lot of my own electrical work - ok; I do almost all of my own electrical work. I've got a lot of experience with wire nuts, professionally in the two-way radio business, and amateurly in home electrical, but these look so much more reliable and easy I am going to give them a try, and if my experience matches yours, they'll be my new go to on my new house build.
I really like the Wagos. I use them for my dc power systems and love how easy they are to use and how clean they make the wiring.
The reason the levers are initially lose is so you can get a grip of them. My first encounter with wago connecters left me a little puzzled because a didn't realize how much pressure was required to open the levers..
Great and comprehensive video! Thank you 😊 My new pieces have many, small AC bulbs. The WAGO makes it easy to attach all those different components to house ac. Also CONFIDENCE that all connections are tight and clean.
Excellent video. I always felt more comfortable pre-twisting my stranded around my solid. I make sure the stranded protrudes 1/8" or so past the solid, so I know it will be the first thing grabbed and properly wound around by the wire nut. Just me.
Ditto on Wagos. Over-the-top excellent. I would would caution DIYers to avoid cheap imitations that are not UL tested and approved, as are Wagos. The few dollars you save are not worth risking your home or family. I've actually never been able to a UL knockoff.