Sorry you lost most people when you said 25fps for an action camera. Additionally when you said frame rate doesn't affect quality. Doubling the framerate for the same max bitrate halves the available data per frame so of course it affects quality. Specially when this thing has 100fps options.
Framerate does influence image quality. Image stabilization can sometimes screw up video with low framerate. On the other hand, higher framerate does not allow you to use slower shutter at low light. It forces camera to compensate by cranking up sensitivity and you will get too much noise.
@@theurosh I've tried bike trip with lots of 4k60fps footage from camera on chest mount, but some times got visible overexposed sky (or top of trees) for very short time. Screenshots are decent, but only if light conditions are good. I found as well that my ryzen 5 is not fast enough for video processing, even with proxy clips kdenlive is giving me super long render times for both H264 and H265 outputs. Its only stable on linux, but I was getting like 4-11fps, where on windows a lot of random crashing during edit tries, but 30fps on H264. I think I am going to try H264 for next longer test to see how it behaves.
I’ve got a question for you. Is there a way to stop the chapters and just have one continuous video to download? When I take my videos into LumaFusion, there are sometimes you can’t fix the skips from between chapters.
i need help.. first of all i dont understand why you dont want fps to be 60. 25-30 fps makes vidoes with alittle motion chop/chopping. another question: could you talk about what exposure and white balance should be set to when filming in daylight aith HDR on ?
25fps was the old standard simply because TVs were only capable of that frame rate, and that was interlaced at the time too. 24fps is cinima standard due to the speed of film on a rotating reel - and that is also where they had really expensive cameras set up at completely staged scenes knowing exactly what and how they would produce it. 50fps is more like the current standard (for PAL 50hz mains power countries, 60 for 60hz mains power like America). As you stated the 25fps can be choppy... this is an action camera after all so you'd expect to use it to record fast motion. That's why it has the higher frame options - skydiving, skiiing etc. Do keep in mind that the higher the frame rate, the less data per second you have to spread over each individual frame. So there is a trade off in that respect. I film lecture type stuff on a camcorder for example where the camera barely moves so 25fps is perfectly fine for that. If I were chasing kids on the field I'd bump it to 50fps - which is the max for that camcorder or I'd certainly consider faster depending entirely on how the output turned out as far as choppyness. White balance is 5600k in direct sunlight. That's a constant based on the colour of the sun. Auto may help when clouds are covering the sun which tints everything, or when under indoor lighting. The old orange tinted incandescant lights were closer to the 3500k range for example. 6000k might be for blue tinted fluro lights. Exposure is based on brightness. I don't yet have my own Action 3 - due tomorrow - so I'm not sure what options it has as far as exposure. In HDR mode you will be capturing more of the details in the bright and dark areas and the exposure level you want to use will depend on which of those areas you want the most detail in. A sky clouds scene will have really bright areas you may want to under expose for, and a dark cave will have less bright spots and more shadows you would over expose to capture. That applies to both HDR and standard mode but ultimately it's a choise you make based on what you are wanting to capture. For everyday outdoor use I would think auto exposure would be fine - but again I don't have mine yet to be certain of. But with that information hopefully you can make an informed decision for your own content. Hope all that helps.
there are monitors and graphic processors that can vary the refresh rates and display 24/25 fps smoothly. use 24/25 fps for "artistic" expression and 60 fps for real life presentation .
I do have a low light video here: th-cam.com/video/6Dnta9X52ic/w-d-xo.html But be aware you do need to keep the camera steady as the stabilization isn't effective with these settings.
@@TheCameraManReviews As per normal, expecting too much out of a piece of tech.....LOL. All in all this is a game changer camera. I have several DJI drones. This was an obvious choice. Updates will continue no doubt as well. Thankyou!
I didn't know since when dji has hevc codec ? one of the major problems of dji action was high compression, which, to put it mildly, blurred details in video.
My OA3 produces video with way too much sharpness, and worst of all, it cannot be changed. The end result is mediocre quality which, without color grading and post, looks terrible, worse than an old GoPro footage. Any suggestions to mitigate this shortfall with OA3? The image quality out of the box is just not on par with its competitors.
You forgot to mention that there's no manual settings when choosing HDR-mode, only auto. So recommending to use HDR all the time is quite moot, don't you think?
That is a good point and one I probably should have mentioned. The only reason I didn't and I'm not sure if you would agree, but I would guesstimate that 99.9% of action camera owners use auto mode, and the ones that do use manual mode, probably already know the best settings. 🙂
@@TheCameraManReviews Well, you are probably right about people using auto instead of manual and it is really not a big deal. And I do appreciate your videos. Especially the one about using ND filters. You are the only one I've seen to point out that the stabilization will not work satisfactory when using ND filters. But then again you really have to use manual mode when using filters and that makes HDR mode not useable. Anyway, keep up the good work (I have subscribed).
I have an issue with mine, hopefully I can get some help. When I shoot in 1080P(25/30) the video is fine....then when I go to 4K (25/30/60) the footage then becomes glitchy(choppy/ goes slow/breaking up). What's causing that(if you know), what am I missing? 🤔 Thanks! 🙂
@@TheCameraManReviews I'm using Late 2014 Mac Mini (8GB Ram/ 250GB Flash Storage/OS 10.15.6 Cat./ 70GB left on my hard drive). My SD card = 256GB sandisk extreme. Mind you, I'm only shooting 15 second test clips. HD is perfect...4K is glitchy.
@@TheCameraManReviews Problem solved! My Man!!!!!! Wow...DJI support couldn't even help me yesterday! Wow HEVC vs H264! I tried 2.7K in HEVC before I switched it, & that worked too! I'll keep in on H264 lol. I'm giving you a virtual hug man! 😁
Thanks for the tips. I recently started using my Action 3 with roughly these settings. However, running Premiere Pro on a 10-year old Mac results in extremely poor performance when editing 4K. 2.7K however is absolutely fine. But I did record 4K as HEVC. Wondering if H264 would be any better? Haven’t tried HDR yet so that might my next experiment…
Direct to the point - Thanks for the info
Sorry you lost most people when you said 25fps for an action camera. Additionally when you said frame rate doesn't affect quality. Doubling the framerate for the same max bitrate halves the available data per frame so of course it affects quality. Specially when this thing has 100fps options.
100% especially on turns ou see the obvious difference in jittering. This guy is an amateur.
Framerate does influence image quality. Image stabilization can sometimes screw up video with low framerate. On the other hand, higher framerate does not allow you to use slower shutter at low light. It forces camera to compensate by cranking up sensitivity and you will get too much noise.
So what's your solution?
@@russquery I use 60fps as a default, no issues with stabilization plus I can grab a screenshot from nearly any action and use it as an image.
@@theurosh I've tried bike trip with lots of 4k60fps footage from camera on chest mount, but some times got visible overexposed sky (or top of trees) for very short time.
Screenshots are decent, but only if light conditions are good.
I found as well that my ryzen 5 is not fast enough for video processing, even with proxy clips kdenlive is giving me super long render times for both H264 and H265 outputs.
Its only stable on linux, but I was getting like 4-11fps, where on windows a lot of random crashing during edit tries, but 30fps on H264.
I think I am going to try H264 for next longer test to see how it behaves.
Fantastic. I concur with each of these points from my own experience playing with the camera. Well done.
This was super helpful since I haven't been overly happy with the imagine quality of my Action 3. Thanks!
Thank you mate, highly appreciate how specific and informative these videos are!
Love how you Simply explain how this all works. Spot on mate :) im new to all this & your videos ae straight to to point Thanks from a new follower
Simple and spot on advice... thanks. Really helpful.
I’ve got a question for you. Is there a way to stop the chapters and just have one continuous video to download? When I take my videos into LumaFusion, there are sometimes you can’t fix the skips from between chapters.
@@cookiescrib3854 simple answer is no.
@@TheCameraManReviews that’s what I kind of thought. I appreciate your quick response and enjoyed the video.
thanks for this nice video
Can you plz tell audion db gain for action 3 @ motorcycle vlogging
Thank you. Never tried the HDR setting, so heading out on my enduro bike to do a bit of testing 🙂
Nice tips👍
Thank you, very helpfull tips explained simply.
Glad it was helpful!
I just bought one, gd tips
Thank you for a good video with tips I will use.
Your background music was a nightmare in my headset... :-)
Is this good for motorcycling? Constantly moving. I'm using this camera. I have videos on my channel based on this camera.
i HAVE A MOTOVLOG VIDEO HERE: th-cam.com/video/aIOK5xnxqIs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=IE_KDJKHOMeqLSKF
i need help.. first of all i dont understand why you dont want fps to be 60. 25-30 fps makes vidoes with alittle motion chop/chopping. another question: could you talk about what exposure and white balance should be set to when filming in daylight aith HDR on ?
25fps was the old standard simply because TVs were only capable of that frame rate, and that was interlaced at the time too. 24fps is cinima standard due to the speed of film on a rotating reel - and that is also where they had really expensive cameras set up at completely staged scenes knowing exactly what and how they would produce it.
50fps is more like the current standard (for PAL 50hz mains power countries, 60 for 60hz mains power like America). As you stated the 25fps can be choppy... this is an action camera after all so you'd expect to use it to record fast motion. That's why it has the higher frame options - skydiving, skiiing etc.
Do keep in mind that the higher the frame rate, the less data per second you have to spread over each individual frame. So there is a trade off in that respect.
I film lecture type stuff on a camcorder for example where the camera barely moves so 25fps is perfectly fine for that. If I were chasing kids on the field I'd bump it to 50fps - which is the max for that camcorder or I'd certainly consider faster depending entirely on how the output turned out as far as choppyness.
White balance is 5600k in direct sunlight. That's a constant based on the colour of the sun. Auto may help when clouds are covering the sun which tints everything, or when under indoor lighting. The old orange tinted incandescant lights were closer to the 3500k range for example. 6000k might be for blue tinted fluro lights.
Exposure is based on brightness. I don't yet have my own Action 3 - due tomorrow - so I'm not sure what options it has as far as exposure. In HDR mode you will be capturing more of the details in the bright and dark areas and the exposure level you want to use will depend on which of those areas you want the most detail in. A sky clouds scene will have really bright areas you may want to under expose for, and a dark cave will have less bright spots and more shadows you would over expose to capture. That applies to both HDR and standard mode but ultimately it's a choise you make based on what you are wanting to capture. For everyday outdoor use I would think auto exposure would be fine - but again I don't have mine yet to be certain of. But with that information hopefully you can make an informed decision for your own content.
Hope all that helps.
there are monitors and graphic processors that can vary the refresh rates and display 24/25 fps smoothly. use 24/25 fps for "artistic" expression and 60 fps for real life presentation .
No mention of the Enhanced Image Quality setting? From my test footage it does make a big difference.
I did a bit of low light in HDR/60fps. Not so good. I'll give your recommendations a try. Thanks.
I do have a low light video here: th-cam.com/video/6Dnta9X52ic/w-d-xo.html
But be aware you do need to keep the camera steady as the stabilization isn't effective with these settings.
@@TheCameraManReviews As per normal, expecting too much out of a piece of tech.....LOL. All in all this is a game changer camera. I have several DJI drones. This was an obvious choice. Updates will continue no doubt as well. Thankyou!
awesome info thanks .
why is it when I upload my OA3 to fb, tiktok and YT, it gets blurry and the videos still have quality when uploaded
Is there a way to put a date/time stamp on your videos , in the Operating system of the camera ??
super helpful to check settings again
I didn't know since when dji has hevc codec ? one of the major problems of dji action was high compression, which, to put it mildly, blurred details in video.
My OA3 produces video with way too much sharpness, and worst of all, it cannot be changed. The end result is mediocre quality which, without color grading and post, looks terrible, worse than an old GoPro footage. Any suggestions to mitigate this shortfall with OA3? The image quality out of the box is just not on par with its competitors.
turn off "enhance image quality" option and see. HDR on will give you softer images.
Very nice to-the-point video mate, thank you. Could you point me at any good advice on how to get rid of the fish-eye effect? Thank you!
Change it from super wide view to de-warp standard
What tool are you using in post ?
Premier Pro
What are the specific for ur powerful pc m8?
In short 4k25fps 16:9 and everything in auto mode. 25 fps in sport camera😢
You forgot to mention that there's no manual settings when choosing HDR-mode, only auto. So recommending to use HDR all the time is quite moot, don't you think?
That is a good point and one I probably should have mentioned. The only reason I didn't and I'm not sure if you would agree, but I would guesstimate that 99.9% of action camera owners use auto mode, and the ones that do use manual mode, probably already know the best settings. 🙂
@@TheCameraManReviews Well, you are probably right about people using auto instead of manual and it is really not a big deal. And I do appreciate your videos. Especially the one about using ND filters. You are the only one I've seen to point out that the stabilization will not work satisfactory when using ND filters. But then again you really have to use manual mode when using filters and that makes HDR mode not useable. Anyway, keep up the good work (I have subscribed).
Will the video quality be any better if you record in 4k and then but then publish to 1080p?
Normally yes.
What about dewarp on or off?
Which camera are you using to record yourself? (your face)
I have an issue with mine, hopefully I can get some help. When I shoot in 1080P(25/30) the video is fine....then when I go to 4K (25/30/60) the footage then becomes glitchy(choppy/ goes slow/breaking up). What's causing that(if you know), what am I missing? 🤔 Thanks! 🙂
What are you viewing the footage on? It is almost certainly the device you are viewing it on not being powerful enough to run it.
if your viewing it on the Action 3 and its still choppy then its your SD card being too slow.
@@TheCameraManReviews I'm using Late 2014 Mac Mini (8GB Ram/ 250GB Flash Storage/OS 10.15.6 Cat./ 70GB left on my hard drive). My SD card = 256GB sandisk extreme. Mind you, I'm only shooting 15 second test clips. HD is perfect...4K is glitchy.
@@ROBB_DEEP Can you try recording 4K in H264 video compression on the Action 3 in the settings . Not HEVC. let me know if its any better.
@@TheCameraManReviews Problem solved! My Man!!!!!! Wow...DJI support couldn't even help me yesterday! Wow HEVC vs H264! I tried 2.7K in HEVC before I switched it, & that worked too! I'll keep in on H264 lol. I'm giving you a virtual hug man! 😁
the framerate changes the vide quality in that direction that every single frame gets more light when using 25 fps e.g. compared to 60 fps e.g.
Stopped at 2:42 as framerate info was wrong
Thanks for the tips. I recently started using my Action 3 with roughly these settings. However, running Premiere Pro on a 10-year old Mac results in extremely poor performance when editing 4K. 2.7K however is absolutely fine. But I did record 4K as HEVC. Wondering if H264 would be any better? Haven’t tried HDR yet so that might my next experiment…
H264 will be your best bet! less taxi ng on the processing.
You can record H.264 and change it to HEVC when exporting
Most ridiculous comment ever! @@about_kaku
Sorry but why not using the HDR mode for night video?
Cz HDR makes it more darker than usual
lol 30 frames per second on an action camera with high shutter speed? doesn't look great. try 60
Peaople was crazy. This is sport camera but they said 25fps 🤣🤣
Aitch, not Haitch..
not a single word about ISO?..
That background drone music was annoying.
What the hell is haaatche dee aar….
The best settings ever are …
Throw it out of the window and buy a Hero 12. Easy setting