I have a critica bikeridin' fever but my no-spark -problemis wierd! so I dunno what to do.. after 10min i got it to run again?? end then later I was gona ride some more, no starting/spark. even with new iridium plug, no spark checkd connectors by eyes etc tried to remove the kill-switch compeletely and try,, nopope..
Good video, but it's good practice to first test is the multimeter by touching the two leads together. Buying a new stator when you have a broken multimeter would be an expensive error.
Great video! one does NOT want to see dis-color of windings, glossy looking to dull can indicate overheating, also there should be some sort of thin substance between bottom of coils and stator. I have seen where this substance is partially missing and the bottom of winding right up against the stator core which can muff up a good R/R rectifier/regul8or.
Please can I ask as you’re clearly very knowledgeable I have a Beta 300 rr and I am having voltage Spikes 15~16 I have replaced the stator , cdi, full wiring harness ,regulator, battery , ground cable and I am still having the same issues ! I am at a lost end with the bike thanks Shane.
Just to make sure I understand, where are you measuring the voltage spike at? The battery? That bike also has a "condensator" (condenser/capacitor) to help prevent voltage spikes, I would check that. There's also a "diodes group" that you could test. Both of those are separate from the voltage regulator. -Charles
Thank you for the reply , Yes measuring across the battery I’m having voltage spikes when the bikes running between 15/16 I found this out as the bike was burning batteries out literally! all the diodes , condenser , have been replaced along with full wiring harness , stator , regulator I am pulling my hair out with it, I can only think the new regulator is also faulty beta electrics are rubbish just getting no were thanks Shane.
Thks four your excellent video I have a Piaggio Zip 2T other day I drive and same one stop me and tell me my rear lights is blinking after 2 days all my lights is blown front and rear I’m surprise my fuse don’t blown also when I drive in full throttle same times is cut don’t the speed what you think is my regulator fault thank you help appreciate
Good afternoon Rocky mounten atv I have a 1996 suzukie rm 125 I did this test according to the manual it's supposed to be 200 oms I get 120 and it just jumps around what would it mean
Great video! Hope you can help on this issue: A few days ago, while riding my SYM VS 125, a lot of smoke started coming out of the front of the bike and the engine started to fail. I turned off the ignition and cut the battery current. At home I took it apart to see what was going on and the rectifier was visibly burnt. I took the bike to a workshop where they changed the rectifier and the battery, but they didn't solve the problem. The new rectifier continues to heat up a lot and too fast, as if something is short circuiting. As they couldn't solve the problem and it still cost me a few €€, I picked up the motorcycle with the fault. Tests i have done: - the battery is new and has 13.1V before the starter - with the three yellow wires from the stator connected to the rectifier, the bike works fine at low revs, fails at medium and the rectifier heats up uncontrollably; with these wires disconnected from the rectifier, the bike works well at any speed, but as we know, the battery is not charged - at idle the 3 yellow wires measure about 40V from stator - the resistant test on stator show equal values on three wires; no ground conductivity; no open circuit on each coil - apparently all the masses are well connected. Any idea what it could be causing this recurrent failure of the rectifier? Note: traditional G6Y carburetor engine with electronic rectifier and CDI, year 2010.
Im thinking about getting the fox titan race subframe or the sport subframe which would be the better choice i dont do much serious riding i want something comfortable and that wont turtle up
i should for ktm 450 sxf 2008 those lists to test the stator because i probably have a problem with that if you can give me a link for those lists that i can check if they are correct. Tnx
My center bolt came loose and now it wont start..you think its possible the electrical spark may be stripped?? Im riding a baja 125cc..bolts come loose pretty easy after a couple hours riding
I have a kawasaki kx85 from 2005 i get no spark. I changed spark plug, spark plug boot, ignition coil, stator and wiring. Everything is brand new, I took it to Kawasaki before touching the bike, they said it was the stator that was the problem, I then changed the stator but still no spark and then everything else besides cdi box i can’t find the issue... Is it maybe Cdi box or flywheel magnets?
I disconnected everything connected to the engine. The plug is pulled and the harness disconnected. Both the red/black wire and the blue/white wire from the stator go directly to ground on a new engine. I think I have a defective stator. Honda pit bike style motor, Pitster Pro 212cc
Hi My stator may have problems Im not a 100% sure. I have spark when I kick But my dirtbike does not start and the bike is not charing battery when it it’s actually running plz help
Your awesome man, that's so helpful mate. I'm trying to get around how my XR 650's wireing loom & how everything works throughout the wiring circuit. Looking into a custom made wiring loom simple CR 250 design as XR'S do not run a battery & also have lights,flashers,stop/tail lights running for being road registration. Cheers.
@@rmatvmc hello , just bought a husqvarna 701 sm and after 110km it shutted down 3 times in the last 10 kilometers while just cruisin , now i sended back to the shop and they said after hooking the bike up for electrical issues that they didnt see anything wrong with it ,so what could be wrong than ?
I have an stop 225 serow its an 87 i just rebuilt the whole engine and bought a wiring harness but i have no diagrams whatsoever and colors coming from stators are to faded to identify
So if my stator reads low but my crank test reads NOTHING I def have a bad stator right? I have put 300 hours plus on this bike. Potentially 50-100 hours without hour meter.
If you are checking resistance on your Crankshaft Sensor: The Green/white to White/Yellow wires should read 180-280 ohms. Next check for insulation to ground. If you put one lead to either if those wires and the other to ground, you should read infinite resistance. Meter in the highest ohms setting (mega ohms). For the charging coils you should have three yellow wires. Y1,Y2,Y3- check the resistance between each of these wires-Y1-Y2, Y1-Y3, Y2-Y3. You should read 0.4-1.1 ohms between each. Then check for insulation from ground, so one lead to a yellow wire, and one to ground. Again, there should be no continuity so the meter should read infinite resistance or OL. If anything is out of those specs, replace it. -Charles
@@rmatvmc my crankshaft resistance is reading 0.00 and my yellow wires are .000 in MEGA OHMS. I THINK I FOUND MY PROBLEM! Thank you ! I will report back once stator is here
@@rmatvmc while I have your attention. Wabt the capacitor and ignition coil. The fact my hour meter working rpm’s means my ignition coil is good right ?
I have a 1982 Suzuki sp125 that will only spark for two kicks then nothing until you let it sit and come back to it. The it will spark a couple times and stop again. Anyone have any ideas?
I have a moped with no spark. When I kick over the engine the lights turn on and the horn works, but no spark still. Does this mean my stator is working fine?
Is it true what he said? A stator is either going to work or it's not? My bike keeps bogging at full throttle I've changed carb changed pet cock size. Messed with idle screw. I'm thinking it's the magneto losing power getting weak
Unfortunately, yes it’s true..but if your bike is running then it’s unlikely to be the stator. presuming you’ve cleaned your carb and inspected the jets? What bike is it may I ask?
Hi, thanks for the videos! I did the static test between 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 leads and got the right resistance value. But when I do the leads-to-ground I dont have Open Line but 1,50 Ohm instead. (manual says we should have OL when lead-to-ground) What does it mean when you get values doing the Ground test? Damaged stator or bad connection somewhere? Thanks a lot
1997 Suzuki King Quad 300 cc LTF Issue: prior to voltage regulator change out 1)Extreme headlamp fluctuation bright to dim when revving motor. 2)Voltage at positive and negative battery cables: 2.5 volts Purchased new voltage regulator and installed New regulator has same voltage output as old regulator but when engine RPM'S are increased engine misfires until engine returns to normal idle. Re-install old regulator, misfires go away No change in voltage output to battery with either regulator Headlamp fluctuation still visible Bench test results for regulators Procedure duplicated as shown in video New regulator: Leg 1> 551... Leg 2> 553... Leg 3> 552 Reversed polarity: Leg 1>552... Leg 2> 550... Leg 3> 544 Old Regulator: Leg1> 576... Leg 2>585... Leg 3>585 Reversed polarity: Leg 1> 584... Leg 2> 580... Leg 3> 581 Next step: Assumed stator is defective without testing. Purchased used OEM stator and had dealer install. When I returned home I tried to start my machine. Machine had set about 1.5 years with same gas. After awhile I finally was able to get it started but engine was misfiring. Pulled new regulator off and replaced with old one, misfires go away. Ride machine around the yard awhile, seems normal and then starts to spit and sputter. Drained old gas and pulled carb and cleaned (which I should have done initially). Restarted engine, same issue! Cleaned carb again, checked adjustments, blew out all fuel lines, still is not running correctly. Completely bypass gas tank and did a gravity fed install, runs better but rpm's are fluctuating erratically, then quits. So for the sake of covering all the bases I decided to check the output on the new stator. I installed a fully charged automotive battery in place of the OEM battery to be sure the battery wasn't the issue. I check voltage at the battery cables when engine is running...2.5 volts with new stator. Rev engine up, voltage actually drops. Disconnect stator while engine is running to test voltage output, engine quits. Decided to remove plastic connector on stator wires and go to a direct connection. I pulled one wire at a time to see the results. Pulled one wire engine runs, pulled second wire engine dies. Reconnect wire one and two and pulled wire 3 engine runs. Check output while engine is running, no AC voltage on one or two legs (can remember completely). Decided to pull stator and bench test. The following results are for the old stator and the new one. Bench test results for stators Procedure duplicated as shown in video New Stator: Jumped wire: 1 and 2>.3 ohms, 2 and 3>.3 ohms, 1 and 3> .3 ohms Old Stator: Jumped wire: 1 and 2> .3 ohms, 2 and 3> .3 ohms, 1 and 3 > .3 ohms Still have no or very little AC output voltage from stator and only 2.5 volts at battery. I have also completed all the other test you showed in the video and everything checks out except output AC voltage from the stator and voltage directly from the battery cables. I am totally at a loss as to where to go next. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I just recently bought a 2008 yz125 and there was no spark and my buddy has a 2016 yz125 so we swapped out the coil and cdi and still no spark. We were gonna try the stator but he moved his bike to a heated shop so we couldn't get it. But I brought the bike to a shop and they said the stators pooched. We spent a good 5 hours tearing the bike apart and trying to clean electric parts and changing plugs and swapping parts with no luck. Of course this video came out just after I figured out what's wrong. Oh well, now I know for next time
Hey mate I got the same problem I get no spark at all I have replaced the coil, spark plug, pulse and now I’m thinking it’s the cdi or wiring harness any ideas?
Wait! Do stators really just "go off" like that, boom, done. No spark! No any warnings or differences in bikes behavior? The WHAT THE FRICK is wrong with my 07' carburator version Suzuki RM-Z 250? I was riding, normal cruisin. Then suddenly as i was going down a roa dit felt like if someone just hit the kill-switch down&held it until the engine shut off. BUT THEN, GET THIS: After about 5-10 minutes later as I was wiggling wires and sockets to see if everything is on place. Nothing seemed abnormal. Then I kicked the kickstar few times more AND IT STARTED again and the bike was working like in any day, no problems. Rode like 5-10 mins, put the bike in the carage, came back and the bike DIDN'T START AGAIN, No spark! Ok! I bought a NEW sparkplug. NO SPARK STILL! Tried and disconnected the kill-switch too cause, suspect. No help at all. i have eyeballed the wiring and cleaned every connectors and with some wd40. No Help. Now the bike has been standing over a year.. But a neow i bought an used coil-sparkplug. ANYONE ANY IDEAS OR SELLING USED rmz 250 07 parts (to Finland) like stators or anything electric really? And rear side panels or other "tuning" stuff edit. yearmodel. Oh and btw i dunno if it means anything but before the bike broke itnalways seemed kinda run un evenlu when i tried to cruise with high gear and really low rpm with stable speed of 37mph it was kinda running unevenly, and erratic but but and it did it from day one.. minor thing cause it wasnt usual i rode on a public road behind traffic steady speed.. no other symptoms. well its harded to start the bike warm, need few kicks.
*Vex X* Have you tried testing your ignition coil and or regulator/rectifier to see if that might be the issue? Ignition coil: th-cam.com/video/S6hnL0Jn6w8/w-d-xo.html , Regulator/Rectifier: th-cam.com/video/-2jWIkhy1fo/w-d-xo.html . Check out these two videos, see if they can point you in the right direction. Have you taken your ignition cover off to inspect the stator?
Thank you for so fast response! No cause i didnt know how to do it then. Yes I have opened the stator cover and cleaned it. also, when i cut the wires from the kill switsh and kickstarted, I got electric shocks from the killswitch wire if i held them
might be the pick up coil... try to see d contact point of d pick up coil if it have rust or any dirts on it and clean if it does... make sure to avoid making d gap wide
You show a pit bike stator but you don't talk anything about it you call it Source call one and Source coil too is source code 1 the ignition part of it and Source coil too the charging part of it what's going on I'm confused Dynamic test I'm getting only four volts ac out of my primary coil
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoXYzQ61tRM/mqdefault.jpg)
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](/img/tr.png)
Really well-paced video for people who are not all over this stuff. Thanks mate.
Best all-round MX youtube channel going I reckon 👍👍
peak voltage output tests would have been a much better video & often resistance is OPK but the coil/s are not actually ok
Good job ..I despise electrical work you've cleaned it up thanks...simple and understandable
Thank you guys for making this video and any other maintenance video, always love learning how to do this kind of stuff.
I have a critica bikeridin' fever but my no-spark -problemis wierd! so I dunno what to do.. after 10min i got it to run again?? end then later I was gona ride some more, no starting/spark. even with new iridium plug, no spark checkd connectors by eyes etc tried to remove the kill-switch compeletely and try,, nopope..
@@WuKuVex i have the same problem. What was that?
@@michaj4013 well, with my bike the problem was the stator. I bought a used one and it started with the first kick. :)
@@WuKuVex I have the same problem new plug and ignition coil also still nada
Good video, but it's good practice to first test is the multimeter by touching the two leads together. Buying a new stator when you have a broken multimeter would be an expensive error.
Great video! one does NOT want to see dis-color of windings, glossy looking to dull can
indicate overheating, also there should be some sort of thin substance between bottom
of coils and stator. I have seen where this substance is partially missing and the bottom
of winding right up against the stator core which can muff up a good R/R rectifier/regul8or.
Please can I ask as you’re clearly very knowledgeable I have a Beta 300 rr and I am having voltage Spikes 15~16 I have replaced the stator , cdi, full wiring harness ,regulator, battery , ground cable and I am still having the same issues ! I am at a lost end with the bike thanks Shane.
Just to make sure I understand, where are you measuring the voltage spike at? The battery? That bike also has a "condensator" (condenser/capacitor) to help prevent voltage spikes, I would check that. There's also a "diodes group" that you could test. Both of those are separate from the voltage regulator. -Charles
Thank you for the reply , Yes measuring across the battery I’m having voltage spikes when the bikes running between 15/16 I found this out as the bike was burning batteries out literally! all the diodes , condenser , have been replaced along with full wiring harness , stator , regulator I am pulling my hair out with it, I can only think the new regulator is also faulty beta electrics are rubbish just getting no were thanks Shane.
Thks four your excellent video I have a Piaggio Zip 2T other day I drive and same one stop me and tell me my rear lights is blinking after 2 days all my lights is blown front and rear I’m surprise my fuse don’t blown also when I drive in full throttle same times is cut don’t the speed what you think is my regulator fault thank you help appreciate
Thank you for taking the time to make this video
Good afternoon Rocky mounten atv I have a 1996 suzukie rm 125 I did this test according to the manual it's supposed to be 200 oms I get 120 and it just jumps around what would it mean
I just found a service honda lighting stator in my closet for my 96 CR500. Is it a 2 or 3 phase? My CR has a pitifully weak spark.
If you have two wires coming off the main connector than it is a single phase stator. If you have three wires coming off it, it'll be 3 phase stator.
I needed this video last year
I need it now! :/
When you test to ground. Where did you put the black negative prob? Battery negative?
Great video!
Hope you can help on this issue:
A few days ago, while riding my SYM VS 125, a lot of smoke started coming out of the front of the bike and the engine started to fail. I turned off the ignition and cut the battery current.
At home I took it apart to see what was going on and the rectifier was visibly burnt.
I took the bike to a workshop where they changed the rectifier and the battery, but they didn't solve the problem. The new rectifier continues to heat up a lot and too fast, as if something is short circuiting.
As they couldn't solve the problem and it still cost me a few €€, I picked up the motorcycle with the fault.
Tests i have done:
- the battery is new and has 13.1V before the starter
- with the three yellow wires from the stator connected to the rectifier, the bike works fine at low revs, fails at medium and the rectifier heats up uncontrollably; with these wires disconnected from the rectifier, the bike works well at any speed, but as we know, the battery is not charged
- at idle the 3 yellow wires measure about 40V from stator
- the resistant test on stator show equal values on three wires; no ground conductivity; no open circuit on each coil
- apparently all the masses are well connected.
Any idea what it could be causing this recurrent failure of the rectifier?
Note: traditional G6Y carburetor engine with electronic rectifier and CDI, year 2010.
hi cud you put up a video for fitting a cdi unit on a 94 honda cr80 thx
What would be the colors wires for a 1996 yamaha WR250?
Im thinking about getting the fox titan race subframe or the sport subframe which would be the better choice i dont do much serious riding i want something comfortable and that wont turtle up
i should for ktm 450 sxf 2008 those lists to test the stator because i probably have a problem with that if you can give me a link for those lists that i can check if they are correct. Tnx
Is it possible to change change from single phase stator to three phase stator?
Question!
where are the 3 cords of the 3 phase stator connected to?
PLEASE tell me about one by one.
When you test the single phase stator i cant see the wire combination you test can you explain the color combination of the wire thanks
My center bolt came loose and now it wont start..you think its possible the electrical spark may be stripped?? Im riding a baja 125cc..bolts come loose pretty easy after a couple hours riding
I have a kawasaki kx85 from 2005 i get no spark. I changed spark plug, spark plug boot, ignition coil, stator and wiring. Everything is brand new, I took it to Kawasaki before touching the bike, they said it was the stator that was the problem, I then changed the stator but still no spark and then everything else besides cdi box
i can’t find the issue... Is it maybe Cdi box or flywheel magnets?
Thank you guys ur the best!!!
Any ideas where to buy a stator for WR426F 2001??
sir..i am getting uneven ac voltage reading across three leads of the stator coil..what could be the cause....it is a new stator coil
Great video !!
Does a 2023 crf125fb have a stator ?
Thanks again Dustin. !!!!
*wolf pack* - Dustin is the man. Thanks for watching our How-To videos!
I have a Ktm 450 sxf 2008, I having issues with the engine turning over. What should I check to see what the issue is.
Thanks
Ever find the problem
My 2000 yz400f has a weak spark would that be the stator or something else
Would the first test work on a 2007 Kx250f?
Could this be why my yz250 isn’t getting a spark I got new cdi box but nothing changed
I disconnected everything connected to the engine. The plug is pulled and the harness disconnected. Both the red/black wire and the blue/white wire from the stator go directly to ground on a new engine. I think I have a defective stator.
Honda pit bike style motor, Pitster Pro 212cc
Can you please do one of these for a xr80
Hi My stator may have problems Im not a 100% sure. I have spark when I kick But my dirtbike does not start and the bike is not charing battery when it it’s actually running plz help
Does anyone know probpem on suzuki rm 250 2007 i cannot start it has fuel and spark and wont start if i push start it run but rev full
Thanks
Your awesome man, that's so helpful mate. I'm trying to get around how my XR 650's wireing loom & how everything works throughout the wiring circuit. Looking into a custom made wiring loom simple CR 250 design as XR'S do not run a battery & also have lights,flashers,stop/tail lights running for being road registration. Cheers.
Glad this helped you out. Thanks for watching and good luck!
@@rmatvmc hello , just bought a husqvarna 701 sm and after 110km it shutted down 3 times in the last 10 kilometers while just cruisin , now i sended back to the shop and they said after hooking the bike up for electrical issues that they didnt see anything wrong with it ,so what could be wrong than ?
I have an stop 225 serow its an 87 i just rebuilt the whole engine and bought a wiring harness but i have no diagrams whatsoever and colors coming from stators are to faded to identify
What does source coil 1 and 2 mean?
very well explained, thank you !!
I wanted to see you test the one on your desk. This is the one i have
Did you watch until 7:00? We show how to test both styles in this video.
So maybe I’m confused…well I’m definitely confused, but did the test on the Yamaha not conclude that the one reading 122 ohms was out of spec?!
Thanks for the info
So if my stator reads low but my crank test reads NOTHING I def have a bad stator right? I have put 300 hours plus on this bike. Potentially 50-100 hours without hour meter.
If you are checking resistance on your Crankshaft Sensor: The Green/white to White/Yellow wires should read 180-280 ohms. Next check for insulation to ground. If you put one lead to either if those wires and the other to ground, you should read infinite resistance. Meter in the highest ohms setting (mega ohms). For the charging coils you should have three yellow wires. Y1,Y2,Y3- check the resistance between each of these wires-Y1-Y2, Y1-Y3, Y2-Y3. You should read 0.4-1.1 ohms between each. Then check for insulation from ground, so one lead to a yellow wire, and one to ground. Again, there should be no continuity so the meter should read infinite resistance or OL. If anything is out of those specs, replace it. -Charles
@@rmatvmc my crankshaft resistance is reading 0.00 and my yellow wires are .000 in MEGA OHMS. I THINK I FOUND MY PROBLEM! Thank you ! I will report back once stator is here
@@rmatvmc while I have your attention. Wabt the capacitor and ignition coil. The fact my hour meter working rpm’s means my ignition coil is good right ?
Is a stator a alternator or generator .
I have a 1982 Suzuki sp125 that will only spark for two kicks then nothing until you let it sit and come back to it. The it will spark a couple times and stop again. Anyone have any ideas?
Does it have a SEM ignition system?
Can you have spark with a bad stator?
I have a moped with no spark. When I kick over the engine the lights turn on and the horn works, but no spark still. Does this mean my stator is working fine?
Yes it's fine. Check the cdi, or ignition coil, or spark plug
Is it true what he said? A stator is either going to work or it's not? My bike keeps bogging at full throttle I've changed carb changed pet cock size. Messed with idle screw. I'm thinking it's the magneto losing power getting weak
Unfortunately, yes it’s true..but if your bike is running then it’s unlikely to be the stator. presuming you’ve cleaned your carb and inspected the jets? What bike is it may I ask?
Hi, thanks for the videos!
I did the static test between 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 leads and got the right resistance value.
But when I do the leads-to-ground I dont have Open Line but 1,50 Ohm instead. (manual says we should have OL when lead-to-ground)
What does it mean when you get values doing the Ground test? Damaged stator or bad connection somewhere? Thanks a lot
If your wires are unplugged then the resistance you are reading means it’s going to ground and that’s bad.
my volts are stuck @ 12.43 at 5k.. and static
Welp, my 93 kx250 doesn’t have these specs in the service manual. Sucks for me
What if you can not find the numbers in the service manual?
Have you tried checking for another online service manual for your bike?
Rocky Mountain ATV MC yea it’s a 2006 cobra 50, not very common
Why is one coil 'wrapped' ?
Thanks
Didn’t source coil 1 fail?
My bike got no spark but when I press the kill switch it shock me what is that
1997 Suzuki King Quad
300 cc LTF
Issue: prior to voltage regulator change out
1)Extreme headlamp fluctuation bright to dim when revving motor.
2)Voltage at positive and negative battery cables: 2.5 volts
Purchased new voltage regulator and installed
New regulator has same voltage output as old regulator but when engine RPM'S are increased engine misfires until engine returns to normal idle.
Re-install old regulator, misfires go away
No change in voltage output to battery with either regulator
Headlamp fluctuation still visible
Bench test results for regulators
Procedure duplicated as shown in video
New regulator: Leg 1> 551... Leg 2> 553... Leg 3> 552
Reversed polarity: Leg 1>552... Leg 2> 550... Leg 3> 544
Old Regulator: Leg1> 576... Leg 2>585... Leg 3>585
Reversed polarity: Leg 1> 584... Leg 2> 580... Leg 3> 581
Next step: Assumed stator is defective without testing. Purchased used OEM stator and had dealer install. When I returned home I tried to start my machine. Machine had set about 1.5 years with same gas. After awhile I finally was able to get it started but engine was misfiring. Pulled new regulator off and replaced with old one, misfires go away. Ride machine around the yard awhile, seems normal and then starts to spit and sputter. Drained old gas and pulled carb and cleaned (which I should have done initially). Restarted engine, same issue! Cleaned carb again, checked adjustments, blew out all fuel lines, still is not running correctly. Completely bypass gas tank and did a gravity fed install, runs better but rpm's are fluctuating erratically, then quits. So for the sake of covering all the bases I decided to check the output on the new stator. I installed a fully charged automotive battery in place of the OEM battery to be sure the battery wasn't the issue. I check voltage at the battery cables when engine is running...2.5 volts with new stator. Rev engine up, voltage actually drops. Disconnect stator while engine is running to test voltage output, engine quits. Decided to remove plastic connector on stator wires and go to a direct connection. I pulled one wire at a time to see the results. Pulled one wire engine runs, pulled second wire engine dies. Reconnect wire one and two and pulled wire 3 engine runs. Check output while engine is running, no AC voltage on one or two legs (can remember completely). Decided to pull stator and bench test. The following results are for the old stator and the new one.
Bench test results for stators
Procedure duplicated as shown in video
New Stator: Jumped wire: 1 and 2>.3 ohms, 2 and 3>.3 ohms, 1 and 3> .3 ohms
Old Stator: Jumped wire: 1 and 2> .3 ohms, 2 and 3> .3 ohms, 1 and 3 > .3 ohms
Still have no or very little AC output voltage from stator and only 2.5 volts at battery. I have also completed all the other test you showed in the video and everything checks out except output AC voltage from the stator and voltage directly from the battery cables.
I am totally at a loss as to where to go next. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Did you ever find the issue?
Life saver thx
I just recently bought a 2008 yz125 and there was no spark and my buddy has a 2016 yz125 so we swapped out the coil and cdi and still no spark. We were gonna try the stator but he moved his bike to a heated shop so we couldn't get it. But I brought the bike to a shop and they said the stators pooched. We spent a good 5 hours tearing the bike apart and trying to clean electric parts and changing plugs and swapping parts with no luck. Of course this video came out just after I figured out what's wrong. Oh well, now I know for next time
Hey mate I got the same problem I get no spark at all I have replaced the coil, spark plug, pulse and now I’m thinking it’s the cdi or wiring harness any ideas?
Wait! Do stators really just "go off" like that, boom, done. No spark! No any warnings or differences in bikes behavior? The WHAT THE FRICK is wrong with my 07' carburator version Suzuki RM-Z 250? I was riding, normal cruisin. Then suddenly as i was going down a roa dit felt like if someone just hit the kill-switch down&held it until the engine shut off. BUT THEN, GET THIS: After about 5-10 minutes later as I was wiggling wires and sockets to see if everything is on place. Nothing seemed abnormal. Then I kicked the kickstar few times more AND IT STARTED again and the bike was working like in any day, no problems. Rode like 5-10 mins, put the bike in the carage, came back and the bike DIDN'T START AGAIN, No spark! Ok! I bought a NEW sparkplug. NO SPARK STILL! Tried and disconnected the kill-switch too cause, suspect. No help at all. i have eyeballed the wiring and cleaned every connectors and with some wd40. No Help. Now the bike has been standing over a year.. But a neow i bought an used coil-sparkplug.
ANYONE ANY IDEAS OR SELLING USED rmz 250 07 parts (to Finland) like stators or anything electric really? And rear side panels or other "tuning" stuff
edit. yearmodel. Oh and btw i dunno if it means anything but before the bike broke itnalways seemed kinda run un evenlu when i tried to cruise with high gear and really low rpm with stable speed of 37mph it was kinda running unevenly, and erratic but but and it did it from day one.. minor thing cause it wasnt usual i rode on a public road behind traffic steady speed.. no other symptoms. well its harded to start the bike warm, need few kicks.
*Vex X* Have you tried testing your ignition coil and or regulator/rectifier to see if that might be the issue? Ignition coil: th-cam.com/video/S6hnL0Jn6w8/w-d-xo.html , Regulator/Rectifier: th-cam.com/video/-2jWIkhy1fo/w-d-xo.html . Check out these two videos, see if they can point you in the right direction. Have you taken your ignition cover off to inspect the stator?
Thank you for so fast response!
No cause i didnt know how to do it then. Yes I have opened the stator cover and cleaned it. also, when i cut the wires from the kill switsh and kickstarted, I got electric shocks from the killswitch wire if i held them
might be the pick up coil...
try to see d contact point of d pick up coil if it have rust or any dirts on it and clean if it does...
make sure to avoid making d gap wide
What about sputtering?
Why do some bikes use ac while others
use dc stators?
Your local dirt bike shop hates this guy
You show a pit bike stator but you don't talk anything about it you call it Source call one and Source coil too is source code 1 the ignition part of it and Source coil too the charging part of it what's going on I'm confused Dynamic test I'm getting only four volts ac out of my primary coil
Ac power from the stator?
Yes. It is AC 3 phase, rectified by...the rectifier.
Made something so simple and short into long and confusing.
One symptom of a failing stator is the engine dies when it gets hot.
Deberían de tener subtítulos en español ):
Now
Resistance is FUTILE !!!!