Valve Adjustment With Engine RUNNING! - 1995 Chevy GMC TBI
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2019
- Valve Adjustment With Engine RUNNING! - 1995 Chevy GMC TBI
In this video I try to cure a ticking or clacking noise I've been getting with this engine since the day I bought it. I've long suspected a valve/rocker arm tick but now am not so sure.
Ken's Video: • Hydraulic valve adjust...
Please let me know your thoughts in the comment section below.
Mechanic's Stethoscope: amzn.to/2NHeiGi
www.1roadgarage.com
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One thing i ran in to was..dont let your socket sit on the adjustment nut/rocker with any downward pressure...your socket will keep it from clacking because you have pressure on the rocker...make small turns and take pressure off the socket and listen...i can take a rocker thats clacking and get it to stop just by resting my socket on the rocker/adjusting nut. If you leave it on there, you might have to back it off 1.5 total rotations whereas you might have heard the clacking start at 3/4 of a turn if there was no weight/pressure on that rocker from the socket. Just my 2 cents worth from previous experience.
I am now 68 when I was 21 I was doing maintenance on for my employer in '72 on a '67 Chevy C60 with a V8 with this exact problem. In this case I took the truck to a Chevy dealer. I was with the mechanic and he did this very procedure to get the tapping out of the valves. Great work on your part, 2 thumbs up !
I bought a 86 c30 crew cab dually that has an engine out of a c60. It's a 366 big block with the same problem. I'm 21 and a mechanic. About to give this truck another 40 years at least
I don’t know but somehow if you want the scene to repeat , you should be workin on a '09
One full rotation after the clacking stops has been the standard on normal Chevy flat tappet cam engines since the 70's when I started mechanics. That's what I remember anyway. You did good.
yeah i agree ericthecarguy rebuilt a 350 chevy and he did the 3/4 and then found out it was a full turn
Was about to say Eric did a full turn.
??? So what are the exact steps in text form 1. 2. 3. 4. Format ???
Hope everyone is being safe :-)
Your engine looks very clean inside Jimmy. Got yourself a well maintained oldy there.
For a stock cam, one full turn is what my book says. I have found that even only slightly higher lift cams you may have to reduce to a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. That fraction is only a guide. Turn them in slowly until quiet, then add up to a full turn.
If you have an aftermarket cam, good to have an RPM gauge hooked up while you do this. You can listen and watch to see if RPM drops (too tight). Depending on cam lift, you may only be able to go 1/4 turn beyond the point where the lifter stops clicking. But never just go to the point where it stops clicking, always add at least a 1/4 turn more.
PSA: When doing this, make sure you aren't putting any downward pressure on the socket, it can put pressure on the rocker ball under the nut and change your results. Also, this is the easiest way to adjust lash on hydraulic lifters for a layman on an already installed/running motor, the push rod method takes some time to learn and should only be done by professionals or experienced people.
Hi Jimmy.
You reminded me of being shown that quick fix road side repair, old mechanics trick in reducing ticking sound.
I was show it in the 1970's, it only works on engine's with the same style rockers.
Love the video's 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Love seeing the old girl in good condition and used regularly. 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Thanks Jimmy ! That was a great video. They definitely make it difficult to get that valve cover off. Thanks for all your tips. Your vehicles are in great condition. Keep up the great work. Bill
My uncle was a mechanic and he did what you did and told always 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn to adjust worked for him always
Awesome video, thanks for sharing. Got a 95 2500, saved it from sitting in the same place for 7 years. New to these Chevy trucks. your videos are very informative, especially for people that like to work on their own vehicles. thank you.
As an alternative to the cardboard you can get a junkyard set of valve covers. Section off the top of each one leaving the bolt holes. Install those and do the valve lash adjustment. The oil won't get on the exhaust and smoke you out. It takes a little longer but you might have an easier time since there's less mess and smoke in your face.
Man u just dont k how long I been trying to find out where that darn ticking nose noise coming from u just inspired me to check mines thanks again Jimmy
My very first vehicle - 1974 Chevy Blazer with the LS9 350 engine. At 80,000 miles, the engine was ticking like a roomful of alarm clocks. At 90,000 miles, blue smoke out the exhaust.
My 1997 Tahoe, however...L31 5.7 liter Vortec with nearly a quarter million miles on it. Leaking a little bit of oil, but it still runs smooooooth. Not a hint of blue smoke. Just a slight tick on startup, which goes away after about a minute or so. I always assumed it was a stuck lifter or something like that.
Good Video My preferred adjustment method after 30 yrs in the trade If I may make a few comments The first is pretty obvious but they need to make sure its not a solid lifter cam! Second is there are clips to go over the rockers that divert the oil to the pivot and don't let it fly all over (check Lisle tools or Ktool) If your doing a lot of the same make ie Chevy you can cut an access slot in an unused valve cover. Position the slot or holes if your good with tape over the adjuster This is really clean as no oil goes over the bottom rail (heads before yours with the perimeter 4 bolt hold downs were bad for this. Also, make sure you use a thin wall 5/8 deep socket 3/8 drive Its really easy with a 1/2 impact to not be in full contact with the adjuster. Also you can sideload the rocker on the pivot Don't go past 3/4 turn I stop at 1/2 or Zero on a hot cam You just want them tight sneak up on the setting slowly It is possible to collapse the lifter and flatten the cam lobe(not good)You may hear the engine load down slightly as you get close it will recover if your not to tight as the lifter reinflates If you are adjusting them frequently you should pull each rocker inspect the pivots and replace the nut The nuts are self-locking
but will eventually loose tension I think I have said enough I like your videos your clear and concise I will look for more Thanks Jeff
I had to comment..my buddy who taught me this. Is named Jeff. LoL. He's a Lieutenant for the fire Dept locally his dad was the Fire Chief...All us young guys stayed at Jeff's house. if you were willing to bale hay or cut firewood.. some of the best years of my life..
Thanks Jeff.
I thought the whole point of hydrochloric lifters was that they self adjust?
This method works just fine...its actually the best method imo and the most reliable cause you know the lifters are good and pumped up since its running and you know that they are tight enough but most importantly not to tight and eat up the cam lobes. Good Video Sir!
Dang Jimmy what big balls you have... I would have just turned the tunes louder and kept on truck'n... Keep up the great vids brother! 👍😁
This is exactly how I adjust my valves on my 64 Corvair. Always works! Good job!!
Great video Jimmy, glad my 96 is quiet, for now. Door Hinge and roller pins are next for me
Had a 73 Chevy Monte Carlo, the engine was pretty well whipped. A 350 four barrel. Took the valve covers off and actually found the rear and front rockers laying almost side ways, doing almost no rockin whatsoever. I took my socket and began adjusting what was really most likely a worn out camshaft under those rockers. the clacking went away and she picked up some pony's. After I cut all new vacuum hoses she had to have her idle adjusted big time downwards. I rode it down to Jiffy Lube to change the oil and get her lubed as well as changing the rear fluid out. Car ran pretty good after that.
Nice man! Surprised it ran in that condition. These GM engines sure are tanks
Didn't watch yet but I feel this should be a good one for some reason, you go MR. 1 ROAD.
I do pretty much the same operation. The only thing that I do different is to 1) loosen the nut until I hear the tap, 2) tighten the nut until the tapping stops 3) tighten the nut another full turn 4) loosen the nut 1/2 turn. That is just the way that my dad taught me to do it about 55 years ago. It always worked for me.
So Cool to see the inside of the engine and the oil flow.
Someone who is always creative
Watching this videos make happy to own a K1500 it has the small block 5.0 but very reliable engine.
Thanks for using lower case letters i really appreciate that you read my comment ❤️❤️❤️❤️
“Lesser of the two evils” had me hooked 🤟🏽
Yes thank you Jimmy
I have the same noise coming out of my motor but you have more confidence than I do .to open up that valve cover I’m a guy that’s going to spend $500 to get them adjusted or more LAMO
I have done the same type of adjustment myself, but for different issue: valves to tight causing rough running engine, even misfire.......works either way. I would recommend 1 full turn on tightening also I have tried 3/4 and end up with "ticking" noises until I readjusted and tightened to one full turn.
That is a very nice truck JImmy. I prefer it to the new ones. With proper maintenance that engine can run a very long time.
Regular car restoration ! Keep it coming .
Tbi fuel injectors are loud too. They make a loud ticking. 95 was the last year of the tbi 350 in these trucks. The next year was the start of the vortec engines in these trucks.
It might take longer but honestly just do a cold lash one at a time at TDC. In my opinion it is a much more accurate way of adjusting the valves and it's really easy to tell if you have a collapsed lifter. You want to give the engine plenty of time to get the oil out of the lifters. I usually leave mine overnight. And then the procedure can vary depending on the type of lifter. And it may be because I have a cam primary system but if you start my truck with a valve cover off you are getting oil shooting 50 ft away.
the guy down the road is giveing me a chevy truck today because it smokes valves are making a jittle noise love rhe tools you mmade thankyou..................
Did that way back when i had a 64 Chevy Impala. Cars were amazingly easy to maintain or repair!
I thought feeler gauges were required for valve adjustments. Is this not the case?
@@MrSupernova111 that's with the newer style that has the screw on top of the valve. You're not able to get a feeler gauge under these older styled lifters
@@JamesAutoDude . Good info. Thanks!
I got rid of my lifter tick. I've also done the valve adjustment like you show. You can put brake cleaner, I think I used Berryman B12, down the pushrods. I used a couple cans... Sprayed it right down the pushrods to fill up the lifters. I let that set overnight. Then added a really strong engine crankcase cleaner... honestly, I think I used seafoam. Ran motor at idle for one hour. Then changed oil. Lifter tick was gone.
As well as your cats and o2 sensors?
Valve seal on a pushrod...easy
Valve seal on a DOHC 32 Valves V8...I cri
After you have done the valve adjustment, and you still here the clacking, there are only 2 other reasons it can be for that year since the fuel injection is straight into the intake and not the cylinders, a bad lifter or an exhaust leak. With the lifters you can get the pin that holds the roller get excessive play in it causing the clacking, and the exhaust leak well that is self explanatory.
Holy extension batman
Great vid 👍🏾
On my '95 Suburban I was able to get my valve covers off without removing anything.
It did take me about 15 minutes of fenageling, and I did ding them up quite a bit, but it worked.
Was.yours a roller cam?
You know sir my sons and I are GM fans and more specifically Chevrolet fans. Years ago while they were still in their Pampers I began my psycho attitude training towards Chevrolet. One of the things that I explained to them was that no matter what happened to the car it will always break down at home in our garage or in a place where we could fix it. I could always blame serendipity, luck, Magic or the GM gods but inevitably I cannot remember Nor can they remember a breakdown in a GM or Chevrolet vehicle on the side of the road or stranded in a part of town where you would rather not be. I know this topic is off topic of this video but I cannot help but put in my two cents worth about the thoughtfulness of GM and their cars. I remember having them exactly what you've just done in this video to my first Chevrolet which was a 235 inline 6 station wagon ...no. not the Nomad... I wish.... Up to my latest 2007 Tahoe... And they 65 327 350 horse stick Corvette convertible... Either way we would like to thank you for doing things our way in other words without a bazillion dollars spent in diagnostic tools please be safe and keep on doing
Right on, thanks!
You did a fine job Jimmy. I have done that job many times on gen 1 Chevy's small (Vortec's are Gen 1 with Vortec heads) and big blocks. 1 turn always feels like too much in your mind but if you only go 1/2 turn or 3/4 turn you'll be taking it apart and doing it over most of the time. When I did a motor with a new cam I always did them 1/2 turn static (not running) to break in the cam (20 minutes at 2000 RPM) and then redo them at 1 turn running. My motors always seemed to make more mess than yours did though, how'd you do that? ;-)
ANY rocker arm adjustments will negatively or positively affect the corresponding valve opening duration and depth - noise is secondary to a proper valve opening.
Listen to the engine as he is loosening or tightening and you can hear the engine RPM’s change. That RPM change is a result of that cylinder’s efficiency or performance change.
Not true. After each shutdown and restart, the hydraulic lifters absorb any maladjustment.
I have the same problem on my 5.7. Oil on the spark plug, clacking. I think I need new seals, but you provided some other "roads" to try. Valve seals are one road, I see about the next ones.
You can buy little clips to put on the rocker arms to deflect the oil so it doesn't get all over the place. You did good as far as I could see, keep it up.
You did a great job. One Full turn is ok.
Very good demo for a novice trying to learn.
I am very glad to follow your video, I am living in Europe and your english or american is really clear, I understand pratically all you are explaining ; Often I am trying to follow others specialists but their accent are typically local and I got pain. so I take a subscription . I got a Chevy 3100 of 1952 with a V8 motor, I will next, open the cam cover to do the adjustements too; I have a cam cover that we have cut so the oil stays inside and doesnt go the exhaust pipes
Jimmy you rock ! Awesome info
I had really loud lifters I used Lucas in the oil and it went away in 10 mins of running. I can now go through a drive through without having to turn off the car. Never came back in 5 years. Lol. I believe ceretec also works to achieve that. Might help some people if your rockers aren't yet too worn. That period usually from 75k-150k miles.
Sounds great after adjustment👍
When I change my oil (99 5.7 suburban)after acheving normal operating temp) i drain a quart of oil out and add a quart of kerosine (Walmart $8.00 a gallon) Let it idle for 10 to 15 minutes. Drain oil add new filter and oil. Keep the push rods clean and oil valleys clean of any sludge. Been doing it for years. Don't be skared. And yes I did the valve adjustment 3/4 turn.
Probably keeps the seals nice and plump
Dad was a great old school mechanic he did a quarter turn after it quieted down.This was on older small block chevys.Too much and the valves will not close.
Allan Brogdon my dad done the same everyone now recommends zero lash to 1/4
Man GREAT VID. JIMMY, YOU ARE TURNING IN TO A MECHANIC, OK LATER HAVE TO GO TO COURT. Engine was VERY VERY CLEAN underneath the cover, NICE.
How'd it go at court?
BAD, REAL BAD, I THOUGHT MY ATTORNEY WAS ACTUALLY MY PROSECUTER ? No decisions yet ? I want to go to trial & they all want me to plea guilty for something I DID NOT SAY. YES IT'S ALL ABOUT ME ALLEGEDLY SAYING SOMETHING BETWEEN ME & A DOCTOR I SAW FOR THE FIRST TIME. ALL ABOUT REVENGE FROM THE POLICE FOR THEM NOT DOING THEIR JOB & ME PUSHING HARD FOR ANSWERS, FACT. TRUMPED UP CHARGES THAT ORIGINALLY LANDED ME IN JAIL & NOW HAVE MAGICALLY DISAPPEARED ? NO JUSTICE FOR A PERSON WHO HAS NEVER BEEN ARRESTED IN HIS LIFE & NO CRIMINAL RECORD, IT'S ALL STACKED AGAINST YOU BRO. THEY JUST WANT YOUR GUNS & MOST OF THE THINGS NEVER EVEN INVOLVE GUNS, WTF ? OK I'M DONE RANTING, THANK FOR ASKING, A K.
On Hondas (R18, R20 engines) you should do the valve adjustment only with the engine cold (less than 38ºC).
I enjoy your channel, man! Keep up the good work!
same truck 1994 same color just put in new seals did it other way from vidos i did the same thing you did covers are hard to get off// . works great does not smoke- runs great. 3/4 turn good other vidos did not work as easy thank you....
You did Great! Cardboard thing cool too!
Great work im doing this tommorow 💪💪❤❤
it's really easy to do not running, and it doesn't have to be warm for a hydraulic cam. You spin number 1 until the exhaust just starts to open, then adjust the intake. Take the lash out so there is just barely no up and down play on the pushrod, and give it 1/4 to 1/2 turn (pick one and stick with it). Follow it through the firing order and do all the intakes. Then spin 1 until the intake valve just starts to close, and adjust the exhaust the same way and run through the firing order. That works even with large roller cams. Keeps you right on the base circle of the cam, gets it perfect every time.
I think this video is the best great work
I dropped by your film here to kinda check out if this is done any differently on the more modern engines....Im more accustomed to the blue flame chevy 6s much different on them .I was having a miss and found a cylinder with 0 compression and a plug fouled such as yours ....Had a broken push rod and the valve neither opening or closing fully and lifter rattled pretty good when I replaced the push rod a few persuavive whacks with a hammer and all was well But I would recommend you do as I did and use the most effective time honored treatment for noisy lifers drain your your oil ,replace four quarts and add one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil It does wonders these GM V8s were always pretty noisy when they first came out I liked that your shop is not adorned with photos of half naked women and you needed no potty mouth to get the job done .
A solvent wash is great to loosen carbon on older engines. From the look of his valve train I don't think this one got gunky. I had an 80s blazer that missed intermittently on one cylinder. Was recommended it was a lifter and to do the oil/atf trick. Never did
This was my favorite video from your channel!
5:00 happy Valentine’s Day
I'd have kept pulling plug wires and try to isolate which cylinder that ticking is from. Replace both lifters for that cylinder with premium hydraulic lifters sitting for an hour in some clean lighter weight engine oil. I would NOT mess around with trying to adjust lifter preload on a running engine. I've just had too good of luck going to zero lash plus 1/4 turn. I personally go no farther and have always found that to work well for me.
Having worked on many of these I was on edge when you started to remove the heater tube. Normally they look fine or a minor leak but immediately break at the threads when disturbed.
Haha that quick connect on the intake it the worst part of the whole cooling system on these. I've put 2 of em on my 93 TBI 350 in less than a year. I gave up and just let it seep the very small amount it leaks. Doesn't get wet, just leaves dried coolant crusties around it. I've already tightened the fitting into the manifold as tight as I'm comfortable with and am afraid of cracking the intake if I go any further.
I am having the same problem with my 2005 Z71 ... I'm going to take a quart of oil out and add some Lucus Oil stabilizer
My cousin cut out the center of a old valve cover an always adjusted them when it was running after he got the motor together I tired one time couldn’t doit I had noise from the fan an my exhaust was dumped right before back tire. No cats. Let’s just say I couldn’t wtf was goin on Hats off to whoever can doit with car/truck running
I would like to suggest that the nuts should be replaced. Those nuts are a one time adjust type of nut. The nuts loose their locking strength over time and you would be smart to change them so that you can have them keep in adjustment. I was at G M Training Center when they had one at Tigard, Oregon. They recommended changing the nuts every 50 thousand miles because they will loosen as they heat and cool every time you run the engine and that weakens the locking feature of the nuts.
Early model Chevy small blocks we use to tighten each valve until the engine ran a little rough then back off 1/2 a turn and go on to the next valve until your done!
Very informative😜
Great video.
Glad we could help ,, to all the ones who said valve's
I have a set of valve covers for a small block chevy with the top cut off just for that situation . Comes in handy I guarantee.
Thanks, Jimmy, my Mopar 440 has the same problem. I am going to try the same. Great video.
What year?
Thank You! A very good video.
A very good way to adjust the hydro lifters tick can also be a exhaust header leak one can take an old pair of rocker covers cut them lengthwise to install and make adjustments without oil going every where
My 99 yukon is loud and needs a muffler.I noticed a small miss by feel the distributor was broken at the ear where the bolt that holds down the distributor cap screws into.Good old jb weld!
You should try liqui moly hydraulic lifter additive. It works
I would adjust them all the same way on both sides. Because they all could be off because of wear by 3-5 thousands because of milage. And you are right one full turn is better.
I thought feeler gauges were required for valve adjustments. Is this not the case?
@@MrSupernova111 I think you use them for solid lifters
@@cj8172 Thanks!
Great job. I learned a lot from this video. Thank you.
Un learn it dude *Don't put WATER on oil fires* other wise you might as well put gasoline to try and putit out
@@punker4Real her is one for you dud, don't piss on air, on other way not to fart on gasoline while smoking.
Lifters clack because you probably have a low oil pressure problem, and so the cam could be worn. I wonder what the oil pressure spec is?
My 5.7 lt1 also has a tick, replaced all rockers, still ticks. This is the way the dad showed me how to adjust rockers on these older motors
Whenever I did that fix I had oil spraying all over the place, How is your oil pressure? I cut the top of a vlave cover to adjust without making a mess.
you should have done all the valves since you were in there. if the clicking doesn’t go away it is a lifter tick. run some oil flush through it or marvels mystery oil to clean out those lifters
ATF
I usually do about half a turn, but that's my preference
ppl been doing this for hydraulic lifters for many many yrs. iv done 1000's of em this way. its fine, 1/2 turn once clicking stops is my normal base tho.
Personally I didn't hear anything to suggest you needed any adjustments lol, you watched a video and got excited bro.
Hmmm? Last time I did this on my old 69 Chevy many many years ago, I seem to recall even at idle oil sprayed out the pushrod hole with gusto! Have to be careful going too tight especially if the pushrod stops spinning. I went with quiet, still spinning and 1/4 -1/2 turn more on a warm engine. I see lots of comments here with many different methods. Hard to say which is right, wonder what the manual says on this particular setup?
That's what I just did an hour ago usually do 1/4 turn, now did 1/2 turn. I always adjust mine about every 6 months to a year...
Yeah, a manual is the first place anyone should go, then youtube for method or procedure. And I mean a Chilton or Haynes repair manual.
how can incorrect valve adjustment affect oil consumption / deposits ?
Also I´m always suprised how little lubrication there is in the valve train of these pushrod engines
What exhaust setup you have. Sounds.good!
Did you figure out what's causing the build up on the back plug? I have the same issue but no ticking.
Most likey leaking valve stem seals. They dry out and distort, and break from being dry and brittle. And the oil drips down the stem, and onto the sparkplug, and you'll even see smoke on startup. It's a well known common issue with gm
hola estimado en que ayuda o mejora el motor con ese ajuste? Saludos desde Costa Rica
just a litte tip for future if you need to turn the engine over by hand use a ratchet and 15/16 socket on the alternator pulley nut and its makes turning it over very simple.
Also the little lines for the oil a plugged 45 seconds before oil was flowing..
I’ve noticed with the tbi chevys there’s a loud tick from the injectors. If you test them with a 9v battery you can hear them. They’re loud enough to hear in the cab. It also makes it very hard to listen for other ticking sounds. But also can drive someone nuts when trying to diagnose an engine noise. Just throwing it out there for people who have a tbi Chevy.
Wow - thats the first time I saw rockers in motion
I would have cleaned the valve cover, being the rest of the engine looked very clean!
FYI...I found that after installing a mild cam and new aluminum Proform valve covers..the rockers on the intake manifold side were tapping against the side of the valve cover. The tapping drove me nuts, until one day I happened to notice wear marks on the inside of the aluminum cover, both sides after I removed them for another adjustment...That was the problem !!
The cover had enough aluminum to use a grinder and removed the wear marks ...
IT WORKED>>>. Check it out.
55 lbs of oil pressure cold at idle. you should replace the seals but these heads run hot and the guides wear really badly because of it.
i prefer to set my lifters like this,but i use the clips to stop the oil from flying,but you don't seem to have that issue, i would be looking into the low oil pressure as that small block should soak the wheel well, mine will hit the wall about 8 feet away if i dont run it with the clips lol, that could have been part of your issue, poorly oiled top end will cause excessive wear, i know this is a older video and not sure if you still have this truck or not but i bet those back cam lobes are wore pretty good, seems to be a pretty common issue with the 2nd gen 5.7l's
Hello. One about valve adjustment: It is a fine tune, it should be done with the engine either cold or at operating temperature (Refer to manufacturer information) with the engine off. However, what many people do not take in consideration: Often enough the rocker arms wear a little bit where they touch the valve. This is an issue in valve adjustment, as the feeler gauge will measure the gap between the valve and the rocker arm, but not the wear on the rocker arm. This is possible to correct without replacing the rocker arm. Remove the rocker arm from the engine, secure it in a vise and with a file, file the rocker arm (where it contacts the valve). Go slow and steady, if it is croocked, that rocker arm is junk. As for that oil on that sparkplug... It can be a valve seal, but it is unlikely. When valve seals leak, it usually is on various cylinders, not just one. This does not mean it is not the issue, but more than likely it is the piston rings.
If it's worn out then low oil flow(as seen at 7:00 ) or high revs at start up is why it happened..
this is why i wait at lest 2-3min before leaving the driveway in the morning
@@punker4Real Indeed there is not a lot of oil, keep in mind that this engine has an over head valve valve train, not over head cam. If it only had this amount of oil on an ohc engine, that would definitly be an issue. Maybe there even is some sludge at the oil pickup, that will lower oil pressure.
Usually its a worn rocker arm and putting more preload changes the geometry slightly preventing the tick, or it could just be a worn lifter, putting preload in a different erea of the lifter can stop it from losing zero lash