I totally agree with your prediction. As a bonus, there is no loud, annoying, and unnecessary music piped in either. I think it's a winning recipe! Fred
I had said on one of his last tear down videos he has the recipe for success now. His volvo dash disassembly got like 700 views. His vette engine disassembly got like 70,000. Quick commentary, fast forwarding drill bolt removals, and instant assessment as he goes along and boom our boy is on to something. We enjoy the fails too so keep those in there too like a rod being shot out of the block. All of it is entertaining.
Dude, the amount of tech and precision and engineering that goes into a simple engine is astounding... we really take our Civics and Corollas and Mazda 3's for granted. They're like rocket ships compared to 100 years ago.
The price of all this high technology is that the engines have to be maintained properly which includes changing the oil at appropriate intervals, replacing the timing belt on those engines that have them, not overheating the engine and absolutely not running it at too high an RPM. It's anyone's guess what happened to this one mine is that it was revved too high and that's why there was so much catastrophic damage.
@@1575murray i would also disagree with their thesis that older cars had "less" engineering in them. Less tech yes, Engineering? No. Back in the 20-50's their used to be a saying. If you go to a Engineer/Mechanic's bench that had a vice, you were looking at a poor Engineer/Mechanic. The reason being, if the parts are made to spec then you won't need a vice to make the parts fit. That was part of the reason we did so well in WWII. Every Sherman part was made with tolerances so tight that you could change the parts from one tank to another and not affect the tank's ability to be functional. That is Engineering. Something we no longer really do here in the States anymore commercially (and by commercially i mean Large scale).
Classic oil pump failure due to over revving the motor. The k20z3 and k24 motors have those large oil pumps with the balance shafts inside. The balance shafts rotate 2x the speed of the crankshaft and are prone to failure at the slightest over rev of the engine. The busted rod likely occurred either due to the shock of the oil pump detonating or because no oil pressure afterwards. This is why the rsx k20a2 and k20z1 oil pumps are used on a lot of both regular and high performance k series setups.
@@aborted4196 it happens a lot unintentionally. When someone is racing and accidentally shifts into 1st instead of 3rd. Otherwise the factory rev limiter wont let it go much past redline.
@@AcuraLvR82 I know you’re only using that as an example, but it’s pretty damn hard to money shift into first gear. It usually doesn’t have synchros, or it’ll have a lockout. You’ll grind the second you try to go in
I’ve seen a few strange things with Honda engines too. Many many years ago I was a Honda Motorcycle mechanic at a Honda dealership in Orlando FL. A kid rode his S-90 single cylinder 4-stroke to the shop. It was raising hell backfiring and all kinds of noise. Kid said, “I think I need a tune-up.” When tore it down it had a completely severed rod AND HAD BEEN RUNNING like that. Both ends of the rod were mushroomed where they had been banging into each other. I guess the rod must have broke after he got it started and the part of the rod attached to the crank would slam into the rod piece attached to the piston knocking the piston up where it would bounce off the combustion chamber somehow not hitting a valve and then smack into the crank end spinning the crank around for another go. I could almost imagine a two-stroke doing that but a single cylinder four-stroke that only fires every other revolution?
yup my k20z3 fa5 was at 270k when totaled, burned some oil and was throwing evap codes when it got totaled but ran to redline everyday and was smooth idling with a/c in texas heat
@@mediocreman2 Even then, these fucking things will just take it. Ive got 2 friends with z3’s and one with a z1. One Z3’s taken 2 or 3 moneyshifts without any apparent damage and it’s at 290k kms, the other z3 has taken 10-12 (Impressive, i know) and is at 250ishk kms and running well. Z1’s taken 2 or 3 as well and runs perfectly well at it’s 260k kms. 2 Civic Si’s and one RSX Type-S
Usually happens when they break up by the wrist-pin where the section of the rod is narrowest. Whips around and just tears everything up. My sisters car came apart like that and she just kept driving it until there was nothing left for the rod to hit. Said it stopped making noise so she thought it was ok.
Your sister might be related to my wife. She had two flats and just kept driving even when a neighbor tried to flag her down. Afterwards she said “I thought it felt a little funny”.
A Honda engine is like a soldier, it keeps going no matter what. Ericthecarguy had a D16 with a deleted rod and it was still running like it only had a misfire.
Bruh, your post-mortem teardowns are awesome, great camera work and angles, super descriptive, and the perfect length to watch. If you do 200+ of these teardowns a year as you said in one of your other vids, you have a straight up cult following.
Man, it’s the impact wrench sped up 2x. I’ve always loved the sound of an impact wrench. You’re either about to start a project or finish one, and honestly, both are kinda relaxing.
Eric the Car Guy's salvage yard D15 was still running with one rod wedged in the block too (he thought it was just a misfire at first!), plus the Carwow D-series Civic running for 5 minutes with no oil or coolant.
You must obviously love and live your job. I know mechanics who don't even change summer/winter tires on their own car, just because they work on cars the whole week.
14:44 - I am not sure about that. That engine gives me a "this all happened in a police chase" feeling. Hit a curb or parking barrier, cracked the pan, bent the bolt then ran for as long as it could without oil before a piston seized and threw the rod.
@@bartsarton2212 oil starvation, one piston siezed and snapped the other most likely got somewhat stuck too and bent while the other two cylinders fired away at most likely full RPM
I worked on Hondas, Toyotas, and Subarus most of my career. You only need 6 sockets, lol. 8, 10 ( buy these in bulk), 12, 14, 17, 19. Oh, buy the Honda crank bolt tool, it’s a necessity.
@@down19992000 Back in the day, NGK palladium spark plugs would foul with yellow glaze inside of 1,500 miles in my new 1971 Honda CB750K1. After going through several sets, I switched to Champions and never had another problem.
Have you ever thought about doing any older V8s ? Like Chrysler LA small blocks, Windsors, Chevy big block, etc. They are pretty simple engines but still very different from each others, I'd like to see all the differences between the manufacturers, I think that would be interesting, especially for people wanting to build hot rods since your videos are very clear and informative.
14:46 Id imagine it might be something like seeing the tach wrap all the way around to the pin at 0 RPM after a "2-3" shift and almost embedding all your teeth in the passenger dash pad.
You are great to watch. What a knowledgable mechanic so young and smart, wish I was 30 years younger and was smart enough to do this, your video is great.
Eric, I always get a nice education watching you tear apart a blown Honda K engine. I have a K24Z2 in my Honda Accord. I love the tip about the rubber band and the rocker assemblies. Great video!
Man this motor in that specific car, damn. Thing handled like it was on rails, the shift feel was second to none, and you could let that motor EAT all day at 7,000. Great motor.
Great channel and thanks for producing so much interesting content. Those crank bolts can be stubborn. Ingersoll Rand makes a series of sockets called Power Socket. They work like a charm on Honda crank bolts.
I use the Lisle 19mm heavy socket. It’s weighs closes to 1lb due to the extra mass around the socket. A standard 19mm socket on my Milwaukee 1/2” will just bounce around trying to get the bolt free, the lisle socket doesn’t hesitate lol it’s about $14 online 😊
Lisle (and other companies) make a really heavy impact socket meant for Honda crank pulley bolts. I’ve used mine on about 5 different cars and it works like a dream with my milwaukee impact. Part number is 77080.
I'm a new fan of your channel. I LOVE watching you tear down blown engines. I've seen all of your teardowns but do not recall if you have done a Rav4 engine. I own a 2014 and would love to see a tear down of that engine.
I just love engineering and tinkering. I'm not a petrol head or mechanic, but all this stuff is fascinating. I would love to see what you can salvage and how much you're able to sell it for vs the cost of obtaining the engine. Rebuilding projects are something I would like to do as a hobby in the future. Thanks so much 🙂
I think the rod just said bye to the piston, said hi to the oil pump. With no oil circulating the pieces couldn't get to the other parts of the engine, thus it was still able to function as a three banger. (At least that seems logical.) Just amazing!
Kids today love to hold Honda engines on the rev limiter. Hear it everyday.... Also keep the commentary coming as I love to hear your opinion and issues you have seen with these engines....
So um, how on earth did this engine run when you heard it run? absolutely astonishing. I have a K20Z3 in my car, been such a fantastic engine.. I think this car was just over revved / shifted into the wrong gear at speed. Poor K :(
I Do Cars, As Soon as you removed that oil pan, I was amazed and shocked at the damage present. I laughed aloud. How did the balance shaft housing end up this way, in pieces? Maybe the connecting rod struck it in just the right way for the balance shaft housing to break up. My Lord, this is awful. Thanks for sharing this engine tear down. I am planning on (want to) buy a newer 11th gen (2022) civic hatchback 'Sport' trim with the K20C2 (port-injected) 2 liter engine and the 6-speed manual transmission. I don't know if, or when, Honda is planning on incorporating port injection and direct injection fuel delivery, but if that is the way the world is going, then Honda needs to get on the ball and do so. Otherwise, I am sticking with port-injected engines only. I am more than happy to give up 22 horsepower from the 158 hp K20C2 port-injected engine versus 180 hp out of the L15B7 1.5 liter direct-injected turbo engine if reliability and durability is on the line. Port injection=proven reliability. Direct injection does not equal reliable or durable in my mind.
I worked at a Honda dealership for 14 years, and there were always repair shops and retail customers calling about the crank pulley removal tool. I now work for NAPA, and they have a tool in stock for that. (Part # 3970) It seems like a snug pulley fit and easily spinning engine combine to make removal with an impact pretty difficult.
Looking forward to the 6.1 Hemi you were talking about. I have 2 of these, and I know they're very robust engines. I also know that people over modify them, too.
Maybe it's the twisted side of me, when I here you say let's get the head off, my brain say "oh goody, carnage time!!!" with a giggle. Thanks for sharing this stuff.
Cool videos, love the teardowns and the unknowns! I'm sure if you had an air impact, you wouldn't have such a hard time getting bolts loose. Don't get me wrong, I use both at work all day, but for stubborn stuff, my Ingersoll Rand Titanium, or Matco air are my go to!!!
I am impressed with the complex aluminum die casting work on those major engine pieces, Honda has come a long way since sand casting their original 750 motorcycle engine in the late 1960s. Overall a very elegant engine design. My guess is some tuner disabled the rev limiter and the driver missed a shift at full throttle.
Get a Devil Forge furnace, they're small, light, super easy to use, and you can melt down the aluminum blocks and parts, maybe even the iron/steel parts if you get the one rated to melt steel.
So I guess that would be NCV or Negative Crankcase Ventilation. If Copart considers that run and drive what does it take for them to say the engine is blown? Pieces of the crankshaft in the passenger seat and the camshaft piercing the hood?
Very likely it was that "cold water intake" if he head was in such good condition. Over-rev tends to cleanly snap the rod, those were very bent before they broke.
Since the age of 17 in 1976 I've worked on my own stuff. In 1986 I got serous and completed a 3-year course in advanced automotive repairs. Over the years I've seen 2 stroke motors to the biggest V8s around that would not start or idle on Champion plugs but would run fine on Autolite plugs. So, I don't understand your bias against them.
Did you have any discussion with Copart about how "running and driving" should: 1. not have windows in the oil pans. 2. have oil at least to the "safe" mark on the dipstick, 3. not have cracked blocks, and 4. ya know, actually be able to drive more than off the trailer.
I had this exact engine in a car. When I sold it, the car had 205K and was still running like a champ. How do you do this to an engine? How does this happen? I changed the oil every 5K and I cannot say that it was run with a light foot. However, it was never abused.
This channel and engine disassembly videos are gonna sky rocket. Everyone loves to see blown engines and the chaos inside those engines lol.
no frills engine teardowns are awesome. I don't want a lot of commentary or other bullshit, just get it done.
I totally agree with your prediction. As a bonus, there is no loud, annoying, and unnecessary music piped in either. I think it's a winning recipe! Fred
I had said on one of his last tear down videos he has the recipe for success now. His volvo dash disassembly got like 700 views. His vette engine disassembly got like 70,000. Quick commentary, fast forwarding drill bolt removals, and instant assessment as he goes along and boom our boy is on to something. We enjoy the fails too so keep those in there too like a rod being shot out of the block. All of it is entertaining.
Yep, just subscribed, love engine carnage porn
Very true. I've never watched videos like these ever before but I just realised I love it!
Just the fact that it ran after all that carnage is astounding.
Easily the best 4 cylinder engine ever made
Only a Honda...
The K series is Honda's Motorsport design, so they tend to be tough freaking engines.
Dude, the amount of tech and precision and engineering that goes into a simple engine is astounding... we really take our Civics and Corollas and Mazda 3's for granted.
They're like rocket ships compared to 100 years ago.
Right? Even compared to the 80s where the same size engine had like 70hp and 40 torque lol
The price of all this high technology is that the engines have to be maintained properly which includes changing the oil at appropriate intervals, replacing the timing belt on those engines that have them, not overheating the engine and absolutely not running it at too high an RPM. It's anyone's guess what happened to this one mine is that it was revved too high and that's why there was so much catastrophic damage.
@@1575murray i would also disagree with their thesis that older cars had "less" engineering in them. Less tech yes, Engineering? No. Back in the 20-50's their used to be a saying. If you go to a Engineer/Mechanic's bench that had a vice, you were looking at a poor Engineer/Mechanic. The reason being, if the parts are made to spec then you won't need a vice to make the parts fit. That was part of the reason we did so well in WWII. Every Sherman part was made with tolerances so tight that you could change the parts from one tank to another and not affect the tank's ability to be functional. That is Engineering. Something we no longer really do here in the States anymore commercially (and by commercially i mean Large scale).
Classic oil pump failure due to over revving the motor. The k20z3 and k24 motors have those large oil pumps with the balance shafts inside. The balance shafts rotate 2x the speed of the crankshaft and are prone to failure at the slightest over rev of the engine. The busted rod likely occurred either due to the shock of the oil pump detonating or because no oil pressure afterwards. This is why the rsx k20a2 and k20z1 oil pumps are used on a lot of both regular and high performance k series setups.
And people love to over rev Hondas don't they
@@aborted4196 it happens a lot unintentionally. When someone is racing and accidentally shifts into 1st instead of 3rd. Otherwise the factory rev limiter wont let it go much past redline.
@@AcuraLvR82 I know you’re only using that as an example, but it’s pretty damn hard to money shift into first gear. It usually doesn’t have synchros, or it’ll have a lockout. You’ll grind the second you try to go in
i know that the stock oil pump and k20z3 is good for revving to 8600 no issue so idk what happened to that engine
That's interesting thanks
I’ve seen a few strange things with Honda engines too. Many many years ago I was a Honda Motorcycle mechanic at a Honda dealership in Orlando FL. A kid rode his S-90 single cylinder 4-stroke to the shop. It was raising hell backfiring and all kinds of noise. Kid said, “I think I need a tune-up.” When tore it down it had a completely severed rod AND HAD BEEN RUNNING like that. Both ends of the rod were mushroomed where they had been banging into each other. I guess the rod must have broke after he got it started and the part of the rod attached to the crank would slam into the rod piece attached to the piston knocking the piston up where it would bounce off the combustion chamber somehow not hitting a valve and then smack into the crank end spinning the crank around for another go. I could almost imagine a two-stroke doing that but a single cylinder four-stroke that only fires every other revolution?
Damn... the last owner must've really REALLY trashed it, these engines properly maintained are virtually bulletproof, very reliable...
yup my k20z3 fa5 was at 270k when totaled, burned some oil and was throwing evap codes when it got totaled but ran to redline everyday and was smooth idling with a/c in texas heat
Yup, you really have to go out of your way to grenade a K engine this way. Kudos to the previous owner lol
Mechanical over-rev.
@@mediocreman2 Even then, these fucking things will just take it. Ive got 2 friends with z3’s and one with a z1. One Z3’s taken 2 or 3 moneyshifts without any apparent damage and it’s at 290k kms, the other z3 has taken 10-12 (Impressive, i know) and is at 250ishk kms and running well. Z1’s taken 2 or 3 as well and runs perfectly well at it’s 260k kms. 2 Civic Si’s and one RSX Type-S
@@lomfmur i actually money shifted mine once and the trans didnt like it; one synchrotech kit later and i was back in business
Usually happens when they break up by the wrist-pin where the section of the rod is narrowest. Whips around and just tears everything up. My sisters car came apart like that and she just kept driving it until there was nothing left for the rod to hit. Said it stopped making noise so she thought it was ok.
💀
Your sister might be related to my wife. She had two flats and just kept driving even when a neighbor tried to flag her down. Afterwards she said “I thought it felt a little funny”.
'... stopped making noise...' yea like in dead.. 😱😱
Narrator of her story: "Clearly it was not okay..."
DIY: How to make a 3 cyl. Engine!
Shoutout to Honda for this motor actually turning over.
Gotta take a win where you can get one.
He heard it run! "Kinda" but still able to move the car. Pretty amazing imo.
I think that was more luck than anything Honda did.
@@TheImtoomuch Not even. Those engines are overbuilt. Probably one of the strongest/best built motors ever made.
@@brandenelkins2923 that's almost all Honda engines, but this one shouldn't have run the way it was destroyed.
A Honda engine is like a soldier, it keeps going no matter what.
Ericthecarguy had a D16 with a deleted rod and it was still running like it only had a misfire.
Bruh, your post-mortem teardowns are awesome, great camera work and angles, super descriptive, and the perfect length to watch. If you do 200+ of these teardowns a year as you said in one of your other vids, you have a straight up cult following.
3:54 “Wow, it’s actually pretty clean in there”
Because it never had any oil.
Or they had to add every 10 minuets.
The destruction inside the bottom end was impressive. Thanks for going through the pain to show us how bad things can get...
These engine teardowns are pure crack to me. Really relaxing for some reason.
Man, it’s the impact wrench sped up 2x. I’ve always loved the sound of an impact wrench. You’re either about to start a project or finish one, and honestly, both are kinda relaxing.
I Do Cars: “The inside of the engine looks like a bomb went off.”
Seller: “RUNS AND DRIVES!”
Ac ICE COLD 🥶
🤣🤣
NO LOWBALLERS I KNOW WHAT I GOT
Ran when parked.
@@RaimarLunardi don't forget the new tires
I like these breakdowns.
I remember looking up blown engine teardown like a year ago and not finding anything, so thanks for filling the void
The fact that this engine was still running with this kind of damages, even roughly, amazes me.
Eric the Car Guy's salvage yard D15 was still running with one rod wedged in the block too (he thought it was just a misfire at first!), plus the Carwow D-series Civic running for 5 minutes with no oil or coolant.
I concur as I just saw that one before this.
th-cam.com/video/jCcJjDHYrZI/w-d-xo.html
I do this for a living and still enjoy watching you tear these apart... keep it up!!
You must obviously love and live your job. I know mechanics who don't even change summer/winter tires on their own car, just because they work on cars the whole week.
14:44 - I am not sure about that. That engine gives me a "this all happened in a police chase" feeling. Hit a curb or parking barrier, cracked the pan, bent the bolt then ran for as long as it could without oil before a piston seized and threw the rod.
I agree, the damage to the oil pan looked much more like an impact wound than an exit wound.
Exactly what I was thinking
Does that explain why one connecting rod was bent?
@@bartsarton2212 oil starvation, one piston siezed and snapped the other most likely got somewhat stuck too and bent while the other two cylinders fired away at most likely full RPM
New meaning to "internal combustion engine"...LOL
This could make a great Tesla commercial!
Internal destruction engine!
🤣🤣🤣
Internal explosion engine
This one was originally internal, now external
"there's just a whole bunch of tens" (5:57). honda engines are a dream to work on 'cause they're pretty much held together with one size fastener.
It is also near impossible for average joe to maintain as average joe keeps losing the 10mm socket.
@@IIGrayfoxII 🤣🤣🤣
I worked on Hondas, Toyotas, and Subarus most of my career. You only need 6 sockets, lol. 8, 10 ( buy these in bulk), 12, 14, 17, 19. Oh, buy the Honda crank bolt tool, it’s a necessity.
@@emkayusa By bulk you mean 1,000.
Hey bud. First time viewer and subscriber. Great video. This engine puts new meaning to the word “grenade”. Big Al.
Lol the commercial for auto-lite plugs RIGHT after you said not to use them in these motors. Great show!!
Why not Autolites in Honda engines??
@@retro440 I don't know, he said it. I just laughed at the ad for autolite plugs.
I put new ngk's in my civic and they fouled out within a couple weeks. Put autolites back in it and II put another 50,000 miles on it. So ymmv.
@@down19992000 Back in the day, NGK palladium spark plugs would foul with yellow glaze inside of 1,500 miles in my new 1971 Honda CB750K1. After going through several sets, I switched to Champions and never had another problem.
Have you ever thought about doing any older V8s ? Like Chrysler LA small blocks, Windsors, Chevy big block, etc. They are pretty simple engines but still very different from each others, I'd like to see all the differences between the manufacturers, I think that would be interesting, especially for people wanting to build hot rods since your videos are very clear and informative.
14:46 Id imagine it might be something like seeing the tach wrap all the way around to the pin at 0 RPM after a "2-3" shift and almost embedding all your teeth in the passenger dash pad.
Still don't know how you only have 10k subs man, love your videos and I'm sure these will skyrocket
Looks like # 1 connecting rod was tired of all the "ups and downs" and just wanted out !!
😂
Thats what I was thinking maybe just a bad rod
You are great to watch. What a knowledgable mechanic so young and smart, wish I was 30 years younger and was smart enough to do this, your video is great.
Underrated channel! Your time is coming! I mess with K and LS too
Keep it up my dude!
My new favorite channel. Love the tear downs 🙂
These videos are so entertaining. I'm the furthest from a mechanic but I truly enjoy these videos. Great job.
Eric, I always get a nice education watching you tear apart a blown Honda K engine. I have a K24Z2 in my Honda Accord. I love the tip about the rubber band and the rocker assemblies. Great video!
Man this motor in that specific car, damn. Thing handled like it was on rails, the shift feel was second to none, and you could let that motor EAT all day at 7,000. Great motor.
8600 with hondata all day 😊
The expertise and subtle humor is what keeps
Making me coming back to watch these
Great channel and thanks for producing so much interesting content. Those crank bolts can be stubborn. Ingersoll Rand makes a series of sockets called Power Socket. They work like a charm on Honda crank bolts.
I love seeing K carnage. That puppy tried SO HARD to explode but Honda design kept it together.
I use the Lisle 19mm heavy socket. It’s weighs closes to 1lb due to the extra mass around the socket. A standard 19mm socket on my Milwaukee 1/2” will just bounce around trying to get the bolt free, the lisle socket doesn’t hesitate lol it’s about $14 online 😊
The S&D Triax lades are even better.
This has to be a money shift
Haha, I was looking for this comment. Didn't have to go far.
that's exactly what I thought when I saw the destruction of the block.
Money shifts will break valves not rods, looks like it hydrolocked and bent a few rods and someone sent it till it threw a rod
My thoughts exactly.
Secret VTEC level. Pro drivers only.
Love the tight edit on this one. Oh and all the broken bits of course
Enjoyed seeing a Honda engine from the inside.
Love this stuff! You are good at the videos. Keeps us interested.
It looks to me like that engine ingested some Nitrous Oxide!
That's an obscene amount of damage to have been over revved!
GREAT VIDEO
right. it was the subject of someone's experiment or education if thats even possible. SEND IT!
I think it was boosted the way the rod bend like mine on my Volvo 850R.
I've been telling all my buddies about this channel we all love watching this kind of stuff!
Lisle (and other companies) make a really heavy impact socket meant for Honda crank pulley bolts. I’ve used mine on about 5 different cars and it works like a dream with my milwaukee impact. Part number is 77080.
That's impressive ! Most impressive !!
I'm a new fan of your channel. I LOVE watching you tear down blown engines. I've seen all of your teardowns but do not recall if you have done a Rav4 engine. I own a 2014 and would love to see a tear down of that engine.
Really enjoying these videos sir. It’s a different take on my interests.
These videos are the best. I love doing motor teardowns and I love watching them just as much!
I just love engineering and tinkering. I'm not a petrol head or mechanic, but all this stuff is fascinating.
I would love to see what you can salvage and how much you're able to sell it for vs the cost of obtaining the engine. Rebuilding projects are something I would like to do as a hobby in the future.
Thanks so much 🙂
I loved that tear down. Brutal. 😳How in the hell did that even start? 🤔
That K20 cylinder head to the right person is worth some money especially if you're doing a k20/k24 build (K24 with K20 head)
I think the rod just said bye to the piston, said hi to the oil pump. With no oil circulating the pieces couldn't get to the other parts of the engine, thus it was still able to function as a three banger. (At least that seems logical.) Just amazing!
i Don't think JB Weld is going to fix this one.... Really like these video teardowns!
love your videos man. im not sure how long youve been around but you deserve more subs
I don't know what happened Dad - I woke up and it was like that !
I don't know much about engines, but this was really cool.
I haul cars out of various auctions around the country and COPART "runs and drives" means it can move ONE FOOT on its own power.
Kids today love to hold Honda engines on the rev limiter. Hear it everyday....
Also keep the commentary coming as I love to hear your opinion and issues you have seen with these engines....
Tear downs of these blown engines are like Christmas morning for gear heads! The suspense!
pretty amazing that was still running, hard to believe
definite money shift.
valve float, piston impact, bent rod binds and lets loose.
hilarity ensues.
VTEC YO!
My first instinct was overrev also.
@@electronicengineer definitely over rev leading to oil pump detonating.
"I have never seen that"
dont underestimate a teenager with a honda si paid for by daddy.
It's called "The Rule of No Vested Interest"
Unfortunately I seem to have this issue with my daughter.
I hate saying this but I’m this exact guy
The Ol 2nd to 3rd attempt...but you found 1st instead 😳
So um, how on earth did this engine run when you heard it run? absolutely astonishing. I have a K20Z3 in my car, been such a fantastic engine.. I think this car was just over revved / shifted into the wrong gear at speed. Poor K :(
Por que ?
I Do Cars, As Soon as you removed that oil pan, I was amazed and shocked at the damage present. I laughed aloud. How did the balance shaft housing end up this way, in pieces? Maybe the connecting rod struck it in just the right way for the balance shaft housing to break up. My Lord, this is awful. Thanks for sharing this engine tear down. I am planning on (want to) buy a newer 11th gen (2022) civic hatchback 'Sport' trim with the K20C2 (port-injected) 2 liter engine and the 6-speed manual transmission. I don't know if, or when, Honda is planning on incorporating port injection and direct injection fuel delivery, but if that is the way the world is going, then Honda needs to get on the ball and do so. Otherwise, I am sticking with port-injected engines only. I am more than happy to give up 22 horsepower from the 158 hp K20C2 port-injected engine versus 180 hp out of the L15B7 1.5 liter direct-injected turbo engine if reliability and durability is on the line. Port injection=proven reliability. Direct injection does not equal reliable or durable in my mind.
You have my ideal job this is exactly what I'm looking for. Great videos keep them coming
this is the only tear down i haven’t watched yet!
I worked at a Honda dealership for 14 years, and there were always repair shops and retail customers calling about the crank pulley removal tool. I now work for NAPA, and they have a tool in stock for that. (Part # 3970) It seems like a snug pulley fit and easily spinning engine combine to make removal with an impact pretty difficult.
“Little extra crankcase ventilation.”😂 love it! AND......how the hell did that thing run?
Great content. Would love to see a flat-6 out of a Porsche if it ever comes your way
Yeah...
I blew up a customer Carrera once....
That's my gold standard for a bad day at work.
You never know!
@@nattybumpo7156 How did you manage to do that? Feel accomplished!
@@nattybumpo7156 oof. What happened?
Bolt instantly comes out “so that’s also not a good sign” I was dying. I say that constantly when disassembling any engine I can get my hands on
Seller: Runs and drives. Just makes a little noise.
The fact that this thing ran at ALL is a damn miracle...wow...
Looking forward to the 6.1 Hemi you were talking about. I have 2 of these, and I know they're very robust engines. I also know that people over modify them, too.
Maybe it's the twisted side of me, when I here you say let's get the head off, my brain say "oh goody, carnage time!!!" with a giggle. Thanks for sharing this stuff.
Thanks for answering the engine stand quesiton. I was wondering why you didn't use one. Great videos, almost like autopsies.
Cool videos, love the teardowns and the unknowns! I'm sure if you had an air impact, you wouldn't have such a hard time getting bolts loose. Don't get me wrong, I use both at work all day, but for stubborn stuff, my Ingersoll Rand Titanium, or Matco air are my go to!!!
I typically try to crack the head bolts loose by hand on wider heads like this. Wouldn’t have really mattered in this case
Seeing this makes me think how bad my 2001 2.4 grand am was I blew the oil pump out of the block I walked down my street filling a bag with parts lol
I'm looking forward to these videos. Keep up the good work
Thank you Eric you have done ✅ it again hit me with the wow factor 👍😊😊💕
That's the most engine carnage I've ever seen. It didn't just throw a rod, it grenaded like a clay duck. I'm sure it was over-revved by some silly kid
Or money shifted in some way
Yup, street racing, sold the car after a second or third engine change
@@pollcrazy Thats what easy money will do for you. Young kid that never had to work or just a stupid kid.
Those model they have the oil pump running with 2 counter balance shaft, and when the rod it the gear that thing have exploded.
I am impressed with the complex aluminum die casting work on those major engine pieces, Honda has come a long way since sand casting their original 750 motorcycle engine in the late 1960s. Overall a very elegant engine design. My guess is some tuner disabled the rev limiter and the driver missed a shift at full throttle.
Crazy.... I live right near Cedar Lake. When I found out OP was based in STL I was like NICE!
this engine went out with a bang
Only on a Honda can a connecting rod snap and it still run. I was surprised to see the broken connecting rod still spin smoothly on the crank journal.
Get a Devil Forge furnace, they're small, light, super easy to use, and you can melt down the aluminum blocks and parts, maybe even the iron/steel parts if you get the one rated to melt steel.
Holy cow that was fun. What a great channel
Hey man love your videos , wish I could find work like this around me , currently building engines for GM at my local dealership
So I guess that would be NCV or Negative Crankcase Ventilation. If Copart considers that run and drive what does it take for them to say the engine is blown? Pieces of the crankshaft in the passenger seat and the camshaft piercing the hood?
When he said “rod soup” I lost it 🤣🤣🤣
SAME😂😂
" Extra crankcase ventilation" another gem of teardown commentary.
Very likely it was that "cold water intake" if he head was in such good condition. Over-rev tends to cleanly snap the rod, those were very bent before they broke.
Awesome video as always dude. This one was so bad I’d be willing to bet it was a money shift…
That is some Grade-A CARNAGE there. Fantastic!
All these videos are great!
Since the age of 17 in 1976 I've worked on my own stuff. In 1986 I got serous and completed a 3-year course in advanced automotive repairs. Over the years I've seen 2 stroke motors to the biggest V8s around that would not start or idle on Champion plugs but would run fine on Autolite plugs. So, I don't understand your bias against them.
Can you show the procedure used to clean all of these engines? I’m very curious how they show up so clean. Thx.
Did you have any discussion with Copart about how "running and driving" should: 1. not have windows in the oil pans. 2. have oil at least to the "safe" mark on the dipstick, 3. not have cracked blocks, and 4. ya know, actually be able to drive more than off the trailer.
They don’t care, you just have to be told by someone who buys, go look at it yourself, or get burned a few times to learn lol
I had this exact engine in a car. When I sold it, the car had 205K and was still running like a champ. How do you do this to an engine? How does this happen? I changed the oil every 5K and I cannot say that it was run with a light foot. However, it was never abused.
Another good one man... keep em coming
Would love to see the process you take to get some of those parts salvaged and back to market