iv got an 02 Daytona barn find got it a year ago with 67miles on it and damn if this wasn't already not working. Very cool to see what's up. I went a different route so I didn't have to pull it apart yet. Did a little digging and found the resistance parameters of the sensor and made a couple of resistors, I pulled out of an old circuit board, into a plug in resistor. Then plugged into the harness and secured it. works like a charm, no light or OBD2 codes anymore. Bike now goes into closed loop on the fuel injection. anybody wondering I believe it was 45 or so ohms that hit the sweet spot. Bike thinks it is at about half a tank now. There is some flexibility with a good range of resistance that keeps it from going to low fuel, so it doesn't have to be exact. The most time consuming thing was reading the damn stripes on resistors untill I found the right ones. All in all not to bad or hard to do. Never had a bike with a gauge before so I'm not missing it, just look in the tank like I always have done
@@gsoup7850 All obll engines start up in open loop which are basic run parameters set in the computer memory. Once engine warms up if computer sees everything is ok it switches to closed loop which means the engine is now running off all the sensors on the engine in real time. Everything is happier that way, air/fuel ratio is accurate so it is more efficient, throttle response is better, fuel consumption is better, emissions, ect. Response to elevation change, outside temp all are adjusted for and engine is happy. When any obll item causes a code car, bike whatever the computer will go back to open loop untill problem is fixed or code doesn't reappear for three engine cycles which is starting and running vehicle on three different occasions
@@plap. I'm with you now, so the fuel sensor was throwing a code and keeping you in open loop. Just re read your original comment which now makes sense. Cheers 👍
iv got an 02 Daytona barn find got it a year ago with 67miles on it and damn if this wasn't already not working. Very cool to see what's up. I went a different route so I didn't have to pull it apart yet. Did a little digging and found the resistance parameters of the sensor and made a couple of resistors, I pulled out of an old circuit board, into a plug in resistor. Then plugged into the harness and secured it. works like a charm, no light or OBD2 codes anymore. Bike now goes into closed loop on the fuel injection. anybody wondering I believe it was 45 or so ohms that hit the sweet spot. Bike thinks it is at about half a tank now. There is some flexibility with a good range of resistance that keeps it from going to low fuel, so it doesn't have to be exact. The most time consuming thing was reading the damn stripes on resistors untill I found the right ones. All in all not to bad or hard to do. Never had a bike with a gauge before so I'm not missing it, just look in the tank like I always have done
Can you explain why the fuel injection goes into closed loop please? And does it ride differently as a result?
@@gsoup7850 All obll engines start up in open loop which are basic run parameters set in the computer memory. Once engine warms up if computer sees everything is ok it switches to closed loop which means the engine is now running off all the sensors on the engine in real time. Everything is happier that way, air/fuel ratio is accurate so it is more efficient, throttle response is better, fuel consumption is better, emissions, ect. Response to elevation change, outside temp all are adjusted for and engine is happy. When any obll item causes a code car, bike whatever the computer will go back to open loop untill problem is fixed or code doesn't reappear for three engine cycles which is starting and running vehicle on three different occasions
@@plap. I'm with you now, so the fuel sensor was throwing a code and keeping you in open loop. Just re read your original comment which now makes sense. Cheers 👍
@@gsoup7850 👍 exactly now the bike just thinks I have a permanent half tank of fuel
Very good explanation. Could you give me data on the measurement of the thermistor?
Hi have you got a link to the resistor please as i cant seem to find one. Thank you
How many ohms is the ntc thermistor you used to repair the fuel level sensor?
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5psc-NTC-Thermistor-1k-temperature-sensitive-resistor-/172169595638?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Did your thermistor get hot while you had it plugged in like that?
Cheers
Hi, did this work? Mine on my t595 is faulty
Hi, yes it worked, but was as crappy as the original one 😃!
🤣🤣could I ask what u use to remove the sender out the tank with it being in a small recess, never taken one out before and don't want damage tank