Had the exact same crack around the whole radius arm mount in my 80. It's because of the polyurethane bushes. They are too stiff and don't allow the diff to flex as much and cannot absorb vibrations as well as rubber bushes so the vibrations go through the mounts instead. I welded the crack all round and went back to rubber bushes and haven't had a problem since.
Yeah i remember our family's 80 series did the same our neighbour was a boiler maker he took the mount and the diff into work and wielded it and reinforced the mount plate that was 22 years ago hasn't broken since
In my opinion 80's look heaps better without all stuff hanging off them, with just a nice bullbar, lift and decent tyres; no roof rack or big mirrors. But in saying that you have to compromise looks for usability when wanting to do touring trips like yourself. I think keep it as simple and clean looking as you possibly can, making sure all the accessories tie in together with the same styling and have practical reason to be there, if not, don't put them on. Less is more, in aesthetics and performance (reduced weight).
Cracking around the diff radius mounts are super common when you run poly bushes instead of rubber. Mine crack and I swapped the bushes back to rubber and welded the mount.
While you're checking for cracks, remove your steering box and check for cracks in the chassis. Also around the panhard mount on the opposite side rail. Worth bracing both areas whether it's cracked or not.
Indeed, important to check that area! My chassis was cracked around the steering box. Upgrade to GU box isn't really necessary for a tourer. You can put in a later steering box from a 105. Has a thicker shaft. That is plug and play
When you get your diff fixed/swapped out, bace the diff & your chassis at the steering box & panhard while you're at it. Checkout the ramptcustoms kits. You can run the standard toyota steering box.
On the new build I would recommend a stedi light bar mounted under/on the front of the roof rack. We have this on our 100 series and it works amazingly.
Check the steering box mount if she is a pre 93 chassis they will crack there to. Looking forward to this build my 80 is alot like yours and needs some loving.
Kinsella flipped arms will give you castor correction plus new arms and remove the cracked mounts for the new arm mounts. There’s a measurement you need to do before you take your diff out though.
I’m a big fan of period correct builds! Love the red so keeping the same colour gets my vote, plus some repro garden state plates. I don’t doubt that you’ll keep the build tasteful and practical Patty! Maybe with a few nice modern touches. Love the channel boys, keep it up!
OZI 80 & we can be twins! I have Qld rego I bought Sahara headlights on Ebay & they are a great improvement. Then I put in LED globes. Even better. A lightbar on your roof rack & a couple under headlights in front of original indicators for floodlight, plus 2 HID spotties in front of grille for distance.
My 80 front diff cracked the same. I was told too much stress from offset bushes and polyurethane. Mine being factory locker replacement was not an option (different housing) so I had a guy weld her up. He added heaps of reinforcing. She aint gonna crack again. Maybe hit up Performane engineering for a set of offset radius arms. I also had cracks around the steering box and the panhard rod support. Its a good time do those.
I had my front differential do the same thing cracking on the radius arm mounts had them welded up but it’s in the prep work an brace them up it will be great
Keep the OG plates! In my experience, roof-mounted spotlights/lightbars don’t seem to actually help illuminate the road ahead, I’ve tried a few different roof light setups and I’ve returned to simply just bar-mounted spotlights (mine are from Aldi lol). I was just wondering when the 80 would see a similar build to Liam’s Patrol the other day, so I’m keen as for this series!
Keep the OG plate and for the diff you'll be able to get a welder to come fix that and brace it up even better. had a similar issue after I did a half lap in my landy D2.
Rampt customs makes a great brace/repair plate for the diff housing. This kind of damage is pretty common if you run offset bushings in the radius arms. BTW, I'd keep the original plates. To cool!
Maybe some 35x12.50r17 YOKOHAMA GEOLANDAR G017 AT XD, or 315/75r16 YOKOHAMA GEOLANDAR G003 MT(taller than the 35x12.50r17) or 35×12.50r17, or Kumho MT71 in 35x12.50r17(1mm deeper lugs than the 315/75r16 ) or 315/75r16 for more off road capable tread block design that's ok for touring. Method Bead Grip wheels would be mint✍😉.
It will be good to see what you do, I had one of the very first 80s to come into Australia, same colour as yours, had it for nearly 20 years, did the respray and refit back in 2000, great truck then, still great today. Shame I sold it.
Dudes great to see the best 4x4 ever built get some TLC, So I have a late 92 Turbo in the solid red colour (it fades faster than a setting sun) So I had the motor blueprinted to genuine and wow what it is like to drive a genuine 12 valve thats stock. I imported so many of the parts I needed from the middle east, This included all relivant engine and fuel components, My superviser on the rebuild said no non genuine so thats what I did. But I also inported all the rubbers for the flairs. So with engine out they where overhauled. to new. I have a intercooler on the front (safari) and this too got all new hoses and an overdue flush. As for paint I am still undersides on a wrap or paint, and if paint put on a gloss clear? So My tip is keep it genuine, the rubbers for the flares are stunningly made, Door seals and all sealing components special. The only non genuine part is the starter motor and after seeing Dans demo at the 4x4 show I will get a genuine and carry the outer as a spare. I know the engine is on the agenda, dont do the conversion to the 24 valve, I have a 79 series FTE and the confort level of the motor for cruising in a tourer is not worth, rebuild the original to new, just do it with a good builder. AS for fuel you have that sorted. Exhaust I put the legendex on with your recommendation.
Just weld the cracked radius arm Mounts mate, no issues, no need to replace the entire housing. Throw a fish plate or some Gussets while you’re there to stop it happening again. Also replace those polycrap bushes with genuine Toyota ones 👍
Black and White plates for sure, no words, something simple like AA 420. And definitely paint it in the original colour, no raptor etc. and paint the door handles red, and black around the side window frames. Bull bar, side steps, rear bar, flares etc all satin black too. The black and red combo will look clean and not too busy.
Are you going to re-paint or smooth things out and wrap? Wrapping is quicker and cheaper. Diff mount cracking when using offset castor bushes isn't uncommon, nor are chassis cracks where the steering box mounts. It's VERY easy to go over GVM on an 80, so this is an opportunity to be creative and save some weight when putting it back together. Good luck!
Spotties with 12" slimline light bars mounted beneath the headlights on the bullbar. Pro tip: Put grip tape in strategic places on your bullbar, rear bar & sliders. Eliminates the muddy boot slipping we all know so well
Polly caster correction bushes are the worst for the cracking. Look into some custom castor corrected radius arms. The Black Hawk arms look good. Ill be going that way myself. And yeah keep the green old school number plates, way cooler.
Lovely ep. That's normal for a 80 series with hard Neoprene bushes in the arms, I ve welded mine up twice over the years and i added extra plates and bracing around them plates and run softer bushes now had no troubles since
In terms of your front lighting it would be worth looking at some JW speaker drop in LED headlights. TLC 4x4 in the states seem to use them on all of their landcruiser restorations. Keen to see the rebuild take shapes boys. Good work!
Paint the 80 white! Like either a pearl white or a white that has a nice gloss and can put up with bush driving. Maybe PPF after you're done with the paint job ?
From memory, you put castor bushes in? When you did the lift. They can cause enough stress to crack that mount, which is why replacing the radius, to correct castor is the better option
You can customise the plates you have atm, so you can keep the same ones and just get the green and white again. I’m looking forward to this LandCruiser being built again
The roof of my 80 series look exactly like yours 😂 (different colour) but the clear coat had flaked off.. just got it back from a full shut door respray looks brand new (for now 😂😂) not bad for a 34 yr old (1990) 80 series totally love it.. cool vid mate..
Bummer about the diff . As a boiler maker. The cracked started in that bottom corner as it was a sharp angle if it's more rounded it spreads stress better. Always radius corners. And check the steering box they can crack around there too
Suggest you remove front and rear windscreens to do the respray then once done refit using new genuine rubbers and it is essential to use sealant between rubber and body and rubber and glass else you will likely have water leaks.
Awesome video, stick with the OG plates, they really suit. I can see this snowballing into something that takes 3 x as long and costs 4 x budget - but 100% worth it. Can't wait to see the old girl finished. In regards to lights, a set of FyrLyt MOFO with billet bezels will look amazing and perform like no other LED.
It looks like you have polyurethane bushings with an offset, that's why your diff cracked. Those things don't absorb shock well. So unless you want your diff to crack again don't use them. Use regular rubber bushes without an offset. And do the offset another way. This happened to me twice, and I went to using rubber bushes and just moved the bolt holes on the diff down a bit.
Cracked front diff mount is cause by polyurethane bushes in the front arms they don’t flex like rubber bushes causing stress on mount. Can buy kit from ramps customs to brace it up
Rampt customs do a nice brace kit for the steering box/panhard mount area. Would be well worth doing while its off the road even if its not already cracked. For housings see if Dwiz can hook you up 👌
hot tip for you, the light bar mounted onto of your bull bar is illegal for it to be mounted there in Victoria, when cops wanna go defect you, they can cause its something to do with line of sight!
Pull the steering box, get it plated. Mine cracked the panhard mount so badly I need to chassis swap everything across. Big job that could have been prevented if I caught it earlier.
Your cracked axle housing cause is sitting right next to it, caster correction bushes. They're the archillis heel of older Land Cruisers, especially the 80s. They offer far too little flex in the bushes and cause bind, rather install caster plates or corrected radius arms with OEM rubber bushes
Good stuff. Be interested to know the weight of all the bar work etc that came off. I'd guess ~250kg. Do tou know? Keep the original plates, would be my suggesation but your car, your rules.
Can’t wait to see the final product! Should Raptor the bar work instead of just repainting with 1 pack paint or paying to get it powder coated. Recently did it on mine, super easy and looks a treat. Taken it out once or twice since and not even a scratch, pretty solid stuff!
Noooo keep the original garden state plates. Every time I see original plates makes the car way cooler.
Agree custom plates might as well all read "dickhead".
Had the exact same crack around the whole radius arm mount in my 80. It's because of the polyurethane bushes. They are too stiff and don't allow the diff to flex as much and cannot absorb vibrations as well as rubber bushes so the vibrations go through the mounts instead. I welded the crack all round and went back to rubber bushes and haven't had a problem since.
Yeah i remember our family's 80 series did the same our neighbour was a boiler maker he took the mount and the diff into work and wielded it and reinforced the mount plate that was 22 years ago hasn't broken since
In my opinion 80's look heaps better without all stuff hanging off them, with just a nice bullbar, lift and decent tyres; no roof rack or big mirrors. But in saying that you have to compromise looks for usability when wanting to do touring trips like yourself. I think keep it as simple and clean looking as you possibly can, making sure all the accessories tie in together with the same styling and have practical reason to be there, if not, don't put them on. Less is more, in aesthetics and performance (reduced weight).
OG plates are sick. Adds character
Keep the 80! Go hard. Give the girl a make over. Love seeing what you are going to do with it. She's done you proud. 105s and 80s are the best!
The cracks in the axel are from poly caster correction bushes. You need rubber or it will always crack there
Get fresh ‘green plates’ from VicRoads. She deserves it
Gonna be a good build. I can already tell it's gonna be a sensible build, unlike all those other channels with their "budget builds".
I would get the garden state plates redone to new in the exact format. Looks great. But if you go personal why not!
I agree
Definitely new old school garden state plates!
Cracking around the diff radius mounts are super common when you run poly bushes instead of rubber. Mine crack and I swapped the bushes back to rubber and welded the mount.
While you're checking for cracks, remove your steering box and check for cracks in the chassis. Also around the panhard mount on the opposite side rail. Worth bracing both areas whether it's cracked or not.
upgrade to gu box
@@PeterGibson-z8f Upgrade to GU :)
Indeed, important to check that area! My chassis was cracked around the steering box. Upgrade to GU box isn't really necessary for a tourer. You can put in a later steering box from a 105. Has a thicker shaft. That is plug and play
Every 80 in Africa is welded on the radius arms and the mounting of the steering box. These spots get beaten a lot on rough roads
When you get your diff fixed/swapped out, bace the diff & your chassis at the steering box & panhard while you're at it. Checkout the ramptcustoms kits. You can run the standard toyota steering box.
On the new build I would recommend a stedi light bar mounted under/on the front of the roof rack. We have this on our 100 series and it works amazingly.
Keep your original plates. I agree, the fact the vehicle has been registered on the road since the beginning speaks heaps.
Diff solution:
Send diff to kinsela customs and have him put on flipped radius arms 👍🏻
Better clearance, fixed crack and better handling and flex
I was thinking designed and built.
Won’t pass engineering if it’s ever stickered
@@tiamarie177 just swap it would only take a couple hours 🤷🏻♂️
Nothing on the car is stock and doubt it’s engineered so can be defected either way
Only really works if you run 4-5" of lift.
@@sarrassgaming1537 please explain how it only works with 4-5 inches of lift?
Makes no sense
Check the steering box mount if she is a pre 93 chassis they will crack there to. Looking forward to this build my 80 is alot like yours and needs some loving.
Kinsella flipped arms will give you castor correction plus new arms and remove the cracked mounts for the new arm mounts. There’s a measurement you need to do before you take your diff out though.
I’m a big fan of period correct builds! Love the red so keeping the same colour gets my vote, plus some repro garden state plates.
I don’t doubt that you’ll keep the build tasteful and practical Patty! Maybe with a few nice modern touches.
Love the channel boys, keep it up!
OZI 80 & we can be twins! I have Qld rego
I bought Sahara headlights on Ebay & they are a great improvement. Then I put in LED globes. Even better. A lightbar on your roof rack & a couple under headlights in front of original indicators for floodlight, plus 2 HID spotties in front of grille for distance.
My 80 front diff cracked the same. I was told too much stress from offset bushes and polyurethane. Mine being factory locker replacement was not an option (different housing) so I had a guy weld her up. He added heaps of reinforcing. She aint gonna crack again. Maybe hit up Performane engineering for a set of offset radius arms.
I also had cracks around the steering box and the panhard rod support. Its a good time do those.
I had my front differential do the same thing cracking on the radius arm mounts had them welded up but it’s in the prep work an brace them up it will be great
Keep the OG plates!
In my experience, roof-mounted spotlights/lightbars don’t seem to actually help illuminate the road ahead, I’ve tried a few different roof light setups and I’ve returned to simply just bar-mounted spotlights (mine are from Aldi lol).
I was just wondering when the 80 would see a similar build to Liam’s Patrol the other day, so I’m keen as for this series!
Since the radius arm mount is already cracked, you can do a radios arm flip kit to help with comfort and off road flex
Great to see the old girl getting some love there the last off the best she bloody deserves it mate good on ya 👍
Definitely look at the stedi rang of spotties and light bars up graded my ones to them and they are 100% best ones ive ever bought
Keep the OG plate and for the diff you'll be able to get a welder to come fix that and brace it up even better. had a similar issue after I did a half lap in my landy D2.
Rampt customs makes a great brace/repair plate for the diff housing. This kind of damage is pretty common if you run offset bushings in the radius arms.
BTW, I'd keep the original plates. To cool!
Excited for this rebuild! I reckon keep the original plates, they've got lots of character and it will be cool to see a sick redone 80 with og plates!
Kinselas custom flipped radius arms i run them they are amazing
Castor correction bullet proof amazing flex
Wider factory looking flares from FRP look awesome on the 80's. AR40 light bar from ARB would be great addition to the Bullbar.
Maybe some 35x12.50r17 YOKOHAMA GEOLANDAR G017 AT XD, or 315/75r16 YOKOHAMA GEOLANDAR G003 MT(taller than the 35x12.50r17) or 35×12.50r17, or Kumho MT71 in 35x12.50r17(1mm deeper lugs than the 315/75r16 ) or 315/75r16 for more off road capable tread block design that's ok for touring. Method Bead Grip wheels would be mint✍😉.
Very exciting to see another build. Will no lie, when I saw the video I was excited with the possibility of an engine rebuild.
It will be good to see what you do, I had one of the very first 80s to come into Australia, same colour as yours, had it for nearly 20 years, did the respray and refit back in 2000, great truck then, still great today. Shame I sold it.
Dudes great to see the best 4x4 ever built get some TLC, So I have a late 92 Turbo in the solid red colour (it fades faster than a setting sun) So I had the motor blueprinted to genuine and wow what it is like to drive a genuine 12 valve thats stock. I imported so many of the parts I needed from the middle east, This included all relivant engine and fuel components, My superviser on the rebuild said no non genuine so thats what I did. But I also inported all the rubbers for the flairs. So with engine out they where overhauled. to new. I have a intercooler on the front (safari) and this too got all new hoses and an overdue flush. As for paint I am still undersides on a wrap or paint, and if paint put on a gloss clear? So My tip is keep it genuine, the rubbers for the flares are stunningly made, Door seals and all sealing components special. The only non genuine part is the starter motor and after seeing Dans demo at the 4x4 show I will get a genuine and carry the outer as a spare.
I know the engine is on the agenda, dont do the conversion to the 24 valve, I have a 79 series FTE and the confort level of the motor for cruising in a tourer is not worth, rebuild the original to new, just do it with a good builder. AS for fuel you have that sorted. Exhaust I put the legendex on with your recommendation.
You had the motor blueprinted mate these are blueprinted from factory you can get all the specs from toyota
These are already blueprinted from factory you potato can goto toyota and get your factory specs 😂
Just weld the cracked radius arm Mounts mate, no issues, no need to replace the entire housing.
Throw a fish plate or some
Gussets while you’re there to stop it happening again.
Also replace those polycrap bushes with genuine Toyota ones 👍
Black and White plates for sure, no words, something simple like AA 420.
And definitely paint it in the original colour, no raptor etc. and paint the door handles red, and black around the side window frames.
Bull bar, side steps, rear bar, flares etc all satin black too.
The black and red combo will look clean and not too busy.
i love the look of those led cube lights mounted ontop the car on the roof racks
Are you going to re-paint or smooth things out and wrap? Wrapping is quicker and cheaper. Diff mount cracking when using offset castor bushes isn't uncommon, nor are chassis cracks where the steering box mounts. It's VERY easy to go over GVM on an 80, so this is an opportunity to be creative and save some weight when putting it back together. Good luck!
Spotties with 12" slimline light bars mounted beneath the headlights on the bullbar.
Pro tip: Put grip tape in strategic places on your bullbar, rear bar & sliders. Eliminates the muddy boot slipping we all know so well
Gonna be an awesome build mate! Should definitely make longer vids on the next few with more of removing parts and prep!
Polly caster correction bushes are the worst for the cracking. Look into some custom castor corrected radius arms. The Black Hawk arms look good. Ill be going that way myself. And yeah keep the green old school number plates, way cooler.
Love the patina of the old plates keep them.
100% keep the original plates 🤙 shows how far the 80 has come
The 80 series came out in a beautiful dark green colour. I reckon you should go a full colour change!
Lovin this rebuild boys! keen to see how youse go with the respray!!
The cracks on your diff is from offset bushes they don't have enough room to flex they just bottom out and rip on the mounts causing them to crack
In regards to the diff, maybe a look at suspension bags to help with the stress?
Give and take situations when using a caster correcting bushings. Common problems with cracked bracket mounts after multiple flex.
Can't wait for this build 💪💪
Sliders with a rear hoop before the rear door is unreal. Best thing i did on my GU
Lovely ep. That's normal for a 80 series with hard Neoprene bushes in the arms, I ve welded mine up twice over the years and i added extra plates and bracing around them plates and run softer bushes now had no troubles since
For lights replace your factory headlights for led ones you won’t regret it
In terms of your front lighting it would be worth looking at some JW speaker drop in LED headlights. TLC 4x4 in the states seem to use them on all of their landcruiser restorations.
Keen to see the rebuild take shapes boys. Good work!
The cracked radius arm mounts is caused by the offset bushes they don't allow enough movement, is fairly common
Paint the 80 white! Like either a pearl white or a white that has a nice gloss and can put up with bush driving. Maybe PPF after you're done with the paint job ?
Can’t wait for part 2 of this 🔥💯
From memory, you put castor bushes in? When you did the lift. They can cause enough stress to crack that mount, which is why replacing the radius, to correct castor is the better option
standard optioned crack.. no big deal weld it up and psr brace kit ... have welded heaps of them over the years
Dual cab chop & chassis extend like my red one you saw at Brisbane show n shine 😉
Its about time now for the 80series to receive some TLC. I am so happy that the legend 80series will get a new life. 👍💪💯
Looking forward to the end result, so much to take off, I wouldn’t have the time or patience , good luck
Custom plates yer go for it gives it that extra touch and their yours 4 ever mate 👍
You can customise the plates you have atm, so you can keep the same ones and just get the green and white again. I’m looking forward to this LandCruiser being built again
The roof of my 80 series look exactly like yours 😂 (different colour) but the clear coat had flaked off.. just got it back from a full shut door respray looks brand new (for now 😂😂) not bad for a 34 yr old (1990) 80 series totally love it.. cool vid mate..
Bummer about the diff . As a boiler maker. The cracked started in that bottom corner as it was a sharp angle if it's more rounded it spreads stress better. Always radius corners. And check the steering box they can crack around there too
Thanks for sharing. Cheers
Suggest you remove front and rear windscreens to do the respray then once done refit using new genuine rubbers and it is essential to use sealant between rubber and body and rubber and glass else you will likely have water leaks.
New custom black plates for sure!!
Awesome video, stick with the OG plates, they really suit. I can see this snowballing into something that takes 3 x as long and costs 4 x budget - but 100% worth it. Can't wait to see the old girl finished. In regards to lights, a set of FyrLyt MOFO with billet bezels will look amazing and perform like no other LED.
It looks like you have polyurethane bushings with an offset, that's why your diff cracked. Those things don't absorb shock well. So unless you want your diff to crack again don't use them. Use regular rubber bushes without an offset. And do the offset another way. This happened to me twice, and I went to using rubber bushes and just moved the bolt holes on the diff down a bit.
Looking forward to this series!
Keen to see where this goes!
Cracked front diff mount is cause by polyurethane bushes in the front arms they don’t flex like rubber bushes causing stress on mount. Can buy kit from ramps customs to brace it up
Get some JTX headlights. I have them on my 80. Best upgrade so far. Pretty much don't need spotlights anymore.
I'm pretty sure there was a recall on the green 'garden state' plates because they fade and they're difficult to read on speed cameras. Keep them.
The cracked radius arm mounts are more often then not a consequence of castor corrected bushes I'm afraid.
Rampt customs do a nice brace kit for the steering box/panhard mount area. Would be well worth doing while its off the road even if its not already cracked. For housings see if Dwiz can hook you up 👌
castor correction bushes I think are links to diff mount cracking
Awesome video lads. Can't wait for the rest of the build. Muscle 💪 👍
keen for this one fella
Rampt customs makes radius arm brace plates for the diff for that exact issue
hot tip for you, the light bar mounted onto of your bull bar is illegal for it to be mounted there in Victoria, when cops wanna go defect you, they can cause its something to do with line of sight!
Keep the OG plates and put a hoopless bullbar on it 🔥
AUSRVO plates are available. Just saying....
White on black plates with 4X4-RVO, 4X4-ARV, 4X4-AVO.
If youre doing spot lights dont block the radiator, youll notice it running a few degrees hotter all the time
Hi, I had same cracks on my 80 but had it all welded before it got that bad.
Do a complete rebuild like Liam's Patrol plus xtra mods..Can't wait to see the final built😊❤.
Get the old plates remade will look mint
Put a later model front diff housing so you get the bigger brakes 😊
Blutty oath legend the 80 deserves a makeover
Your plate combo is available in two forms. Snap it up lads.
Wheeling with Tyler Thompson is ‘at your 80’s peril’.
Pull the steering box, get it plated. Mine cracked the panhard mount so badly I need to chassis swap everything across. Big job that could have been prevented if I caught it earlier.
When I had my GQ I always wanted "MDYTRK". I don't have a muddy truck anymore. Would be chuffed if you used it.
OG plates for sure mate.
Customer plates are expensive but make a car look cheap
Your cracked axle housing cause is sitting right next to it, caster correction bushes.
They're the archillis heel of older Land Cruisers, especially the 80s. They offer far too little flex in the bushes and cause bind, rather install caster plates or corrected radius arms with OEM rubber bushes
Good stuff. Be interested to know the weight of all the bar work etc that came off. I'd guess ~250kg. Do tou know? Keep the original plates, would be my suggesation but your car, your rules.
Can’t wait to see the final product!
Should Raptor the bar work instead of just repainting with 1 pack paint or paying to get it powder coated. Recently did it on mine, super easy and looks a treat. Taken it out once or twice since and not even a scratch, pretty solid stuff!
Retro plates ftw