Outstanding vid Sir and thanks very much for posting up. Quick question: I'm replacing the VR on my Craftsman 18.5HP tractor today and it's style and location appear identical to yours. Where did you place your multi-meter pins when checking running DC output voltage to the battery? Did you place your 2 pins directly onto the battery posts or somewhere else? Thanks much.
Great video, just one question. The AC current from alternator comes in 2 wires, but the battery only has a red wire connection. So where is the black wire for the battery?
What symptoms did the mower have? My mower i just found today that its putting out 17.30 at high speed. If i don't check the battery voltage while running i wouldn't of know. It runs fine.🤷🏻♂️
I suspected something was wrong when I noticed the Volt meter was swinging too far positive and varying with engine speed. I then confirmed improper voltage regulation with a meter.
where did you put your leads at on the last test before replacing voltage regulator? Where did you place leads on last test after you replaced voltage regulator?
The two yellow wires come from the alternator under the flywheel. They carry the AC voltage to the regulator. The red wire ties back to the battery and carries the charging current from the regulator to the battery.
Very many thanks. My Briggs has two wires: a red and a yellow, and the fixing bolt takes a black wire (ground I suppose). So I don't know which is taking the AC from the generator... it must have a generator (no?)!
Typically, engine-powered vehicles like lawn mowers, tractors, and cars, use a negative chassis ground system. The battery negative terminal ties to the metal frame of the vehicle, and most current flowing through the loads such as the starter motor and ignition coil returns to the battery through the chassis. This reduces the amount of discrete wire needed in the vehicle which reduces weight and cost. The yellow should be the AC coming from the alternator and feeding the regulator's input and the red wire should be the regulator's output feeding the battery's positive.
Every voltage regulator is so easily accessible in every mower and video i see but i guess simplicity/ferris though lets make it hard to do any work on the mowers and add steel surrounding everything -_-
As a design engineer by day, there are a few fellow engineers with whom I would like to "have a conversation with" regarding design for serviceability.
Hi Michael, I have an 2021 Honda 2417 Ride on, and since yesterday, instead showing the hours on the dash, its showing continuously a charge rate of 14+ V.. What would be the cause, do you think? Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to give.
Since normal charging voltage is typically in the 13-14V range, I suspect if it is saying "14+" that the detected voltage may be out of range for the electronics. Using a voltmeter, measure the voltage at the battery terminals. You should see about 12V. Start the engine and measure again. If it is above 14.5V or varies more than 0.5V between low throttle and high throttle, then I suspect your regulator may be having issues and need replacement. Let me know what you find!
I don't think it would, but I don't know your exact machine. On mine, the key disconnects the battery from the regulator when it's off. Now, a bad regulator could fail to recharge the battery, leading a weak battery, or it could overcharge it, leading to a damaged cell and thus a weak battery.
In fact ive seen two vifs shocking parasitic drain, i.e. with the engins off and key withdrawn something is stealing current. Both narrowed it down to regulator. m.th-cam.com/video/9c7OO2S13k8/w-d-xo.html
Apologies for not showing that. I was measuring between the positive and negative battery terminals. The high and variable voltage at 2:20 told me the regulator had failed. At 4:40, you can see how much more stable the voltage is with a functioning regulator.
Great video, man im trying to fix my dads, the red and black wires that plug into the regulater on mine got broke, the wires coming out the regulater are BOTH black, does it matter which way i solder the wires?? Please help, thank you, ive been watching your vids n they helped!
There should be three wires. Two will be the AC coming from the alternator and one will be positive DC voltage which charges the battery. Where did the wires break? If you can measure on the old regulator which ones connect to the alternator and which goes to the battery?
That red wire goes back to the battery and is how the battery gets charged through the regulator. Testing for battery voltage from that connection verifies the wire is intact. Checking for 14V at the battery when the engine is running can also verify the path is complete.
My gut would tell me yes if simply disconnecting that inline connector on the red wire allows the tractor to start. You could try, with the mower turned fully off and positive battery lead disconnected, measuring the resistance from the regulator's red wire to the negative terminal. However, I would think if the regulator is dragging that line down that it would suck enough current to burn up the wire. You could also try measuring the output voltage of the regulator on that wire to see if it strays far from the 12-14V range. Let us all know what you find out!
Hey, mine is Husqvarna TS138 lawn tractor. The problem is the battery indicator always turn red (meaning low battery or almost empty) even though I install the new battery or fully charged battery. Is that because of the regulator problems too?
Does the engine start easily? By that I mean does the cranking speed seem normal or is it slow? I would take a voltmeter to the battery terminals to check the voltage with the engine off and with it running. Off should be close to 12V and running should be around 14V. If running is still around 12V, then there is a problem in the charging system which could be the alternator, wiring, or regulator. Like I traced it back on mine, you can do the same to see where the problem lies. Use caution when working around the battery and a running engine. Engine has moving and hot parts. The Battery supplies a LOT of current which can make big sparks, start a fire, or burn up wires if something gets shorted.
@@par64guy the engine starts very hard with the cranking is slow (like it stuck). Last time I used jumper to start and it went easily but when use the battery alone it is very hard to crank. I also refer and watch other videos that related to my problem. Now I think I must check the wiring (charging) system starting from the battery, solenoid and the key switch. Maybe something wrong along that path. Btw, thanks for your respond.
My magnetic clutch quit working on my Toro, so I check the output at the regulator and I was only getting not quite 7 V DC so I figured the regulator was shot so I ordered a new one off Amazon and that one was only putting out 6 1/2 volts as well. What are the odds of this? The alternator is putting out over 30 V AC so that’s not the issue.
Check the voltage when the clutch is not engaged. If it is normal around 14V, then your clutch or wiring to it might be shorting and dragging down the system.
@@northdakotakid8787 You can't get a good voltage reading without it hooked to the battery. Directly off the regulator to ground, could show 5.5 volts for a bad regulator and 4.5 volts for a good one. Hook the thing up properly and check battery voltage at full RPM. It should show around 14.5 volts on average.
Does it have a Briggs engine like mine? If so, the regulator should be in a similar spot. If not, Google the model number of your engine for a manual or the regulator itself.
Sometimes I amaze myself with how dumb I can be :) I was so caught up in taking voltage measurements that I was thinking the meter's center is 12V and needle movement indicates a drain or charge condition. As an ammeter, it does provide the same information about drain vs charge conditions...I just happened to have a major brain misfire during filming and editing and kept calling it a voltmeter. Thanks for pointing it out and thanks for watching!
@williamblake8650 "tractor" requires fewer letters. :) My childhood neighbor always called his Toro riding mower a tractor when he gave me rides on it and taught me basic maintenance, so that's the name I associated with them for so many years.
I figured . I have a new one on its way mine kept creeping down in volts just checked it today and it is at 12 so it maintains running the PTO and spark but it's not charging any so any draw creeps my batt down .sofar I have not seen any vids of people testing that low and it charging good so I just played the order
Loved your video! Very informative.👍
Thank you!
Awesome, thank you for your help.
Any time! i am glad to be able to assist.
Outstanding vid Sir and thanks very much for posting up. Quick question: I'm replacing the VR on my Craftsman 18.5HP tractor today and it's style and location appear identical to yours. Where did you place your multi-meter pins when checking running DC output voltage to the battery? Did you place your 2 pins directly onto the battery posts or somewhere else? Thanks much.
Yes, I measured off the battery terminals to verify the whole path was working.
Great video, just one question. The AC current from alternator comes in 2 wires, but the battery only has a red wire connection. So where is the black wire for the battery?
See my earlier comment reply about vehicle wiring using the chassis as the return to the battery.
What symptoms did the mower have? My mower i just found today that its putting out 17.30 at high speed. If i don't check the battery voltage while running i wouldn't of know. It runs fine.🤷🏻♂️
I suspected something was wrong when I noticed the Volt meter was swinging too far positive and varying with engine speed. I then confirmed improper voltage regulation with a meter.
where did you put your leads at on the last test before replacing voltage regulator? Where did you place leads on last test after you replaced voltage regulator?
If memory serves, I measured across the battery terminals
Where does the two yellow wires on the voltage regular go to and where does the single red wire go to?
The two yellow wires come from the alternator under the flywheel. They carry the AC voltage to the regulator. The red wire ties back to the battery and carries the charging current from the regulator to the battery.
@@par64guy thank you so much this was very helpful!
Very many thanks. My Briggs has two wires: a red and a yellow, and the fixing bolt takes a black wire (ground I suppose). So I don't know which is taking the AC from the generator... it must have a generator (no?)!
Typically, engine-powered vehicles like lawn mowers, tractors, and cars, use a negative chassis ground system. The battery negative terminal ties to the metal frame of the vehicle, and most current flowing through the loads such as the starter motor and ignition coil returns to the battery through the chassis. This reduces the amount of discrete wire needed in the vehicle which reduces weight and cost. The yellow should be the AC coming from the alternator and feeding the regulator's input and the red wire should be the regulator's output feeding the battery's positive.
Thanks 💯👍🏼
Every voltage regulator is so easily accessible in every mower and video i see but i guess simplicity/ferris though lets make it hard to do any work on the mowers and add steel surrounding everything -_-
As a design engineer by day, there are a few fellow engineers with whom I would like to "have a conversation with" regarding design for serviceability.
Hi Michael, I have an 2021 Honda 2417 Ride on, and since yesterday, instead showing the hours on the dash, its showing continuously a charge rate of 14+ V.. What would be the cause, do you think? Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to give.
Since normal charging voltage is typically in the 13-14V range, I suspect if it is saying "14+" that the detected voltage may be out of range for the electronics. Using a voltmeter, measure the voltage at the battery terminals. You should see about 12V. Start the engine and measure again. If it is above 14.5V or varies more than 0.5V between low throttle and high throttle, then I suspect your regulator may be having issues and need replacement. Let me know what you find!
will a bad regulator drain the battery during the week while it is just sitting and not running?
I don't think it would, but I don't know your exact machine. On mine, the key disconnects the battery from the regulator when it's off. Now, a bad regulator could fail to recharge the battery, leading a weak battery, or it could overcharge it, leading to a damaged cell and thus a weak battery.
In fact ive seen two vifs shocking parasitic drain, i.e. with the engins off and key withdrawn something is stealing current. Both narrowed it down to regulator.
m.th-cam.com/video/9c7OO2S13k8/w-d-xo.html
2:20 & 4:40 what are you measuring? where are your probes connected?
Apologies for not showing that. I was measuring between the positive and negative battery terminals. The high and variable voltage at 2:20 told me the regulator had failed. At 4:40, you can see how much more stable the voltage is with a functioning regulator.
@@par64guy so your saying you had red probe on positive post and black probe on negative post
@@josephcaya9833 tv and baby 99))05 gggt
Thanks HUGE HELP.
Vinman N.Y.
You're welcome!
Great video, man im trying to fix my dads, the red and black wires that plug into the regulater on mine got broke, the wires coming out the regulater are BOTH black, does it matter which way i solder the wires?? Please help, thank you, ive been watching your vids n they helped!
There should be three wires. Two will be the AC coming from the alternator and one will be positive DC voltage which charges the battery. Where did the wires break? If you can measure on the old regulator which ones connect to the alternator and which goes to the battery?
Can voltage after regulator go directly to positive terminal ?
That red wire goes back to the battery and is how the battery gets charged through the regulator. Testing for battery voltage from that connection verifies the wire is intact. Checking for 14V at the battery when the engine is running can also verify the path is complete.
@KX500 if I unplug the red wire and my mower starts, does that mean the voltage regulator is the issue?
My gut would tell me yes if simply disconnecting that inline connector on the red wire allows the tractor to start. You could try, with the mower turned fully off and positive battery lead disconnected, measuring the resistance from the regulator's red wire to the negative terminal. However, I would think if the regulator is dragging that line down that it would suck enough current to burn up the wire. You could also try measuring the output voltage of the regulator on that wire to see if it strays far from the 12-14V range. Let us all know what you find out!
Do you have the link for that regulator that you bought? I purchased some and they are not working properly
Here's the link to ther one I bought: www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZK944WG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ebXgqjtEpFVVa
did you polarise your new regulator?
Hey, mine is Husqvarna TS138 lawn tractor. The problem is the battery indicator always turn red (meaning low battery or almost empty) even though I install the new battery or fully charged battery.
Is that because of the regulator problems too?
Does the engine start easily? By that I mean does the cranking speed seem normal or is it slow? I would take a voltmeter to the battery terminals to check the voltage with the engine off and with it running. Off should be close to 12V and running should be around 14V. If running is still around 12V, then there is a problem in the charging system which could be the alternator, wiring, or regulator. Like I traced it back on mine, you can do the same to see where the problem lies. Use caution when working around the battery and a running engine. Engine has moving and hot parts. The Battery supplies a LOT of current which can make big sparks, start a fire, or burn up wires if something gets shorted.
@@par64guy the engine starts very hard with the cranking is slow (like it stuck).
Last time I used jumper to start and it went easily but when use the battery alone it is very hard to crank.
I also refer and watch other videos that related to my problem. Now I think I must check the wiring (charging) system starting from the battery, solenoid and the key switch.
Maybe something wrong along that path. Btw, thanks for your respond.
My magnetic clutch quit working on my Toro, so I check the output at the regulator and I was only getting not quite 7 V DC so I figured the regulator was shot so I ordered a new one off Amazon and that one was only putting out 6 1/2 volts as well. What are the odds of this? The alternator is putting out over 30 V AC so that’s not the issue.
Check the voltage when the clutch is not engaged. If it is normal around 14V, then your clutch or wiring to it might be shorting and dragging down the system.
@@par64guy nothing was connected. I check dc output voltage at the regulator after I installed the new one & it didn’t go over 7 volts
@@northdakotakid8787 You can't get a good voltage reading without it hooked to the battery. Directly off the regulator to ground, could show 5.5 volts for a bad regulator and 4.5 volts for a good one.
Hook the thing up properly and check battery voltage at full RPM. It should show around 14.5 volts on average.
@@bluegrallis thanks for your input. I don’t have a battery on this machine. The engine produces the current.
@@northdakotakid8787........... Maybe take it to some one that knows about these machine, I can clearly see you havent a clue .
I have a Murry rider can you tell me where voltage regulator is located I cant find anywhere
Does it have a Briggs engine like mine? If so, the regulator should be in a similar spot. If not, Google the model number of your engine for a manual or the regulator itself.
Where did you buy your part
I found mine on Amazon. If pricing is competitive at your local parts/service shop, then support them if possible.
That's not a volt meter on the dash, it's an ammeter.
Sometimes I amaze myself with how dumb I can be :) I was so caught up in taking voltage measurements that I was thinking the meter's center is 12V and needle movement indicates a drain or charge condition. As an ammeter, it does provide the same information about drain vs charge conditions...I just happened to have a major brain misfire during filming and editing and kept calling it a voltmeter. Thanks for pointing it out and thanks for watching!
Replaced the voltage regulator and I'm still getting well over 15 volts
That's puzzling. Does the voltage stay constant as you adjust the engine RPM?
@@par64guy yes
Try amps lol
@@ianlucas6444 I said it right
That is a riding lawn mower, not a tractor.
@williamblake8650 "tractor" requires fewer letters. :)
My childhood neighbor always called his Toro riding mower a tractor when he gave me rides on it and taught me basic maintenance, so that's the name I associated with them for so many years.
My craftman manual calls it a lawn tractor. And when sears repairman came to tune it up, they called it a tractor. So, tractor it is.
Shit il take your 15v rectafuer off your hands 15v is not a bad thing if u are running lights or electric wench .Thay come in difrent charging volts .
Sorry, it's long gone!
I figured . I have a new one on its way mine kept creeping down in volts just checked it today and it is at 12 so it maintains running the PTO and spark but it's not charging any so any draw creeps my batt down .sofar I have not seen any vids of people testing that low and it charging good so I just played the order