ProtoSimTech PT1 Pedal Review - Three Month Follow Up
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ม.ค. 2017
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PT1 Pedals
➤ Order them here protosimtech.com/
➤ Origonal Review • PT-1 Load Cell Sim Rac...
After owning the PT1 pedals by ProtoSimTech for just over three months we thought It was time to look at them and see how they have held up to many hours of abusive driving !
Good
- Incredible Brake feel
- Makes driving faster easier
- Solid build
- Easy to configure and adjust
- Rock solid and durable in construction
- Stay consistent over time with minimal maintenance
- Increadable Price for people in USA
Bad
- Developed some squeaks after first few weeks( fixed with WD40 and Lythum grease)
- Clutch can be a bit noisy with the digressive clutch mec
- Plastic mounting plate could do with a few more holes for mounting to different rigs.
- You have fewer excuses for driving slow.
Thanks to ProtoSimTech For sending these pedals to gamer muscle videos to review
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Production Music courtesy of Epidemic Sound: www.epidemicsound.com - เกม
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Thanks for the follow-up, James! I'm glad they are working out well for you ;-) I hope you continue to enjoy them for a long, long time!
good honest review, James. Cheers!
Got mine and love them!!
NIce review
I just spent 4 hours trying to stop my Fanatec CSP V3 throttle from squeaking with silicon grease and WD-40 without success...at one point thinking that I completely broke them because the potentiometer didn't line up properly on reassembly Back in working order now (but still squeaking). I'm seriously tempted to place an order for these PT-1 pedals. I'm somewhat concerned about the time you took assembling and fiddling with them only to have them start squeaking after a few months. I've had my V3s (with both the hydraulic and performance breaking mods) for nine months before they started squeaking....although they are driving me bananas now!
Hey man, I'm using the pedals that came with my G920 that my dad and i inverted. I'm looking at the inverted V3 pedals from Fanatec and those shipped to my door will be ~£580. My question is, do you think the PT1 would lend themselves to being mounted upside down well? (i can soon knock together an mdf box to mount them in) Cause even with postage and customs they wouldn't be much more then the V3i
You should make more of those close up view of the mechanism. How far does the cylinder stick out from the back when you fully press the pedal?
MrDeap check out the review link in the description from when we first got them :)
MrDeap It also depends on how much you alter the pedal angle in set up. Not much more than 6 inches maximum I'd have thought.
Glad you still like them. I've trying to order these for over a month now but an unable to do so. Also there has been no updates on their website, facebook or twitter since early November. Hope he is still making them.
I know he's a one man shop and he likes to receive orders in batches, but why not just let me order them. If I'm 60th in the queue and it takes 4 months then so be it. I'm prepared to wait. All reviews I've read have been nothing but positive and all state this is one of the best priced pedals for quality. How many potential customers is he losing because they just give up trying to place an order?
I just hate having to go to his site everyday to check to see if he is taking orders. Just let me buy them already.
www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/pt-1-pedal-set-discussion.291290/page-10#post-11668289
@ProtoSimTech you dont sell these on your site anymore :( gutted
nice shirt.
Looking a bit (to much) like my HE Pro pedals, but the clutch-mechanism is different and not noisy at all. On the other hand the HE pedals are made for huge feet and had to put another 4 cm thick woodblock under the woodblook which is on the same level (glad i didn´t buy this extra plate without height adjustments) and i´ve bigger feet than hole India (UK:10).
And this polymer-rubbers for the break is just perfect and give me a bit laughing when seeing this to complex hydraulic systems often loosing the fluids plus other issues. And the Fanatec drivers did good work in avoiding their pedals for the second purchase.
He Pro are awesome,didnt try PT1 but I assume they are similar
can you make the clutch into a dead pedal as in (tighten it to where theres no travel) if the sim game your playing doesnt require one? and you can use just the gas and brake if you dont want use the clutch?
You could just extend the bump stop or get a block of plastic and place it between the bup stop and the pedal to make it a "dead" pedal. Out the box its quite a stiff clutch so you can rest a foot on it without actuating it even at stock.
are you able to turn it off in the pc software for it?
M.A. Films Just make sure it's not bound to any controls in the sim
how would you go about doing that?
......just don't bind it to any control axis in the game........
you have a mic stand in frame but no mic attached to it :thinking:
I don't get why no review of these pedals ever mentions this - The default brake setup has a serious flaw with the red bushing. Specifically, after a certain amount of moderately high pressure, it kind of just collapses in on itself, so the brake suddenly goes very light and the input is all over the place. Did you ever experience a similar problem?
I'm not sure if it's because it wasn't aligned properly or maybe I'm the only one who presses that hard down on the brake - Which really isn't that hard at all though, I can even do it with my hand. I don't have the strongest legs, yet when driving cars with ABS or limited brake force and having the red bushing on, I have to take extra care not to go so heavy as to make the bushing collapse under maximum braking. Thank god installing the second black bushing he provided us with solves this problem, which feels more realistic anyways.
The big advantage of these pedals is really how much you can customize and tinker with them, but when I first got them I was shocked and disappointed how many flaws they had, they seemed absolutely unusable. I certainly would not label them as plug and play in any way. First the collapsing bushing, then the clutch mechanism falling off the rails, then the heavy squeaking of the clutch and the very loud slamming back of the pedals. All of this I could fortunately fix myself though and I really like them now.
I have not had that issue I run the red then black dampener, I have the brake some where in the middle when it comes to its sensitivity. Thing is in a simulator I am not being pushed into the brake by Gforces so having it be very low sensitivity and requiring hardest brake pressure doesn't make much sense to me.
As I said in the video the only big downside to them is that they can be noisy as you have done though one of the main things of getting pedals like this is that you can set them up and do what you want with them to get the results you personally want from them.
I do appreciate the feedback on the red bushing. This is something we're taking seriously, even though it's only happened on a handful of pedal sets. It really comes down to how hard you're pressing on the brake (including the tension adjustment hole), and what the red bushings were designed to handle. We're going to be splitting the red bushing in half by default so that it is less likely to buldge out on impact. We'll be placing a spacer in between the two halves as well. The clutch mechanism shouldn't be falling off the rails unless the plastic spacers were damaged in some way. The plastic spacers were designed to keep the mechanism on the rails and not fall off. The squeek you're referring to has also been eliminated by using a different process to install them. Again, this has only happened to a few customers. All in all, out of over 200 pedals sold, we've had very little negative feedback. With that said, we appreciate your concerns and I'm glad you finally got your issues sorted ;-)
Thanks a lot for the reply, definitely didn't expect that here! ;)
I was actually planning on sending you a more detailed writeup of the issues I experienced, but since I've never gotten around to it, I might just as well mention the rest here:
There is the red bushing that I already described, not a problem anymore, especially now that you've told me how to fix it. The slamming back of the pedals is also quite obvious how to fix, wouldn't even describe that as a flaw, although I think it would be great if you provided dampeners for that by default. Another problem I got and fixed, is the potentiometer of the throttle pedal slipping. A very straightforward fix by tightening the tiny bolt that holds the pot arm in place, but still took me some time to realize where the erratic input came from.
Now the issue I struggled the most with, but have somewhat fixed for now is the clutch mechanism falling off the rails - By looking at the mechanism I have honestly no idea what could be done to ultimately fix the problem, as no matter what I do, the mechanism always has a tendency to veer to the left. I found the following things a factor in this: I can tighten the bolt that holds the white plastic spacers on the pedal side (not on the rails) - this restricts the lateral movement of the mechanism thus preventing it from sliding off the rails. But at the same time it's more likely to squeak, so all I could do is grease it up generously and tighten it as much as I could without it making any noise. Secondly, it seems that the lateral force that is present in the mechanism always seemed to loosen the nuts that were holding the sliding metal spacers in place, especially the left one, eventually allowing enough space for the spacer to fall off the rail - I somewhat fixed that by placing three nuts tightly together on both sides. The third thing that helped was lubrication of the rails themselves. Initially I also thought that the issue was the springs that press the mechanism onto the rails not being exactly symmetrical, and took great care in making them so, however this didn't seem to help much.
But what I also noticed about the clutch pedal, though I'm not sure if it's relevant, is that the pedal face is slightly at an angle, even though it is firmly attached to the pedal arm. So, looking from the front, the pedal face is slightly vertically rotated so that it's facing towards the left a little, so I suspect the problem somehow comes from the pedal arm or something else not being perfectly straight. (Although the mechanism itself also veers to the left, which doesn't coincide with the rotation of the pedal arm)
Like I said, after the adjustments I described I haven't had any problems since, but when I look at it, the mechanism still points to the left a little and the left metal spacing only sits halfway on the rail. If you know if there's some adjustment I could try to straighten the pedal arm or stop the mechanism from veering to the left, I'd be glad.
Some issues that I haven't really resolved yet, but which are not as critical: The second day after I got the pedals I noticed that the little bar that connects to the potentiometer is bent on the clutch (at an angle of maybe 120 degrees). I only found out it wasn't supposed to be this way after I saw that it was straight on other sets, and I suspect I have somehow accidentally caused this myself while tinkering with the clutch (especially since at a later point I noticed it got bent even further after adjusting the pedals some more). I have absolutely no idea how, since this thing takes some force, but I've since been able to bend it back somewhat and it works fine.
Then there is the pedal wobble. The throttle pedal is quite solid and wobble-free, however the clutch and especially the brake wobble quite a bit from side to side. It's just a minor imperfection and doesn't make the pedals unusable, but if you know of something I could do or adjust to fix that, I would be glad to know!
Finally, there's a certain creaking noise when I press down on the brake pedal. It sounds like a series of high-pitched straining noises, or dings, that come progressively the more force I put on the pedal. Also just a minor annoyance, but I would be thankful if you can tell me how to fix that, especially as it's not as obvious to me where exactly the sounds come from.
Also, not a issue but some curious thing that I noticed is that around the pedals, but mostly between the brake and gas pedals, there's some kind of residue buildup over time which looks like aluminum dust.
I hope this feedback is of some use to you. Like I already mentioned, they are in my opinion a great set otherwise and I am happy with the purchase overall. But I would be thankful if you could help me with the minor issues that I still have with the set, especially the wobble and the brake pedal creaking.
I would be happy to provide further details, pictures or videos of my pedal set and the issues if you need them.
The pedal "wobble" you described shouldn't affect anything negatively. There are a number of different factors at play here. For example, the sheets of aluminum we use are not exactly perfect in thickness. The thickness varies slightly over the entire sheet, so when we attach two pedal arms together during assembly, the total width may vary from arm to arm (pedal to pedal). Also, the length of the aluminim sleeves where the arm pivots vary as well by a small amount. We can make those sleeves quick, or we can make them perfect, but not both ;-).
You may be able to bend the threaded rod on the clutch mechanism in order to make it veer to the right or left, depending on which it's direction it's going currently. Other than that, make sure that the two plates are level. If they aren't level, the springs will pull the mechanism down on one side, and that can cause it to veer to one side.
As far as squeaks go, good old lubrication can solve most of those problems ;-)
Anyhow, thanks for the feedback!
You are not alone. My red bushing collapsed, with out much effort as well. I believe I was part of the first batch so there are kinks to iron out. I wasn't hard on the brake, and always used socks. I thought I was the only one.
if you ditch the clutch these are in the 500 $ range?
what do you mean they cost 439 dollars as it is!
ye, the whole set is about 500. The HE Pro's come for 500 as a 2-pedal set 750 for the complete
i confused them with the heusinkvelds, at 439 i wouldn't even look at anything else
AluMILLIUM? Interesting :)
What i dont get about them is, they have a CNC, but cut the pieces in this bland straight design. It wouldn't add anything to the cost with some curves, but add a lot of marketability
Might take longer to mill and be more prone to inconsistencies might make storing sorting and other aspects of production take longer as well as make the pedals structurally weaker.
I think you are right though in that some curves could make them look nicer in some ways, on the other hand I quite like how brutal and utilitarian they are.
I do agree with you on this, actually. We're looking into some new potential design changes in the near future ;-)
Alumilium
Us British people say Aluminium( Al-you-min-e-um) correctly not Aluminum(Ah-Looo-min-um). I hate to admit it but both are correct according to scientific types. Damn and Blast!!
Well say allominium properly in the uk 🇬🇧
Sorry I meant allomiliam
Excellent coverage, I like that you used them for 3 months as well to base your views on.
Can you comment on UK import tax and VAT to what the total price was (sorry if I missed it)
Hopefully you can contact and try for a review on
www.hppsimulation.com/
You will have to Email Proto sim tech for current prices , As you can imaging the actual cost of the pedals for those in UK is changing week on week !
Those HPP pedals do look really sexy but are around 2X the price of PT1-s lol I generally tend to review things that I personally would buy or things that represent really good value for money , like Simetik k2 cockpit , OSW.
Still I'd love to try the HPP pedals just out of curiosity !
Sure do look awesome.
Prices are getting crazy but seems people will spend the money on something built to last and be considered at the top end.
I get what your saying, "average joe" may not need such extreme hardware but that doesnt stop some from spending such of saving towards having them.
Another set I'd like to see you cover...
www.simworx.com.au/gt-pedal-set
I would assume for UK its at least 20% on top of the actual price and whatever shipping/insurance was to deliver.
I hope you do get to try them, I've been set on buying the PRX for a good long while now and hearing what is good and bad about a planned purchase is always great haha
Import duty and tax and parcelforce fees come to about 108 pounds extra at the moment. You must also patiently wait 12 days after your package enters the country for customs to raise the charges, and bill you by post, before you receive the package!
Remember that the pedals are made in batches, so snap them up if you see them for sale on the ProtoSimTech website, or you could miss out for a few months as there is no order book or waiting list!
I've gone from Logitech g25 pedals to these, and just took two seconds off my favourite lap time! So I'm very pleased!
Some fettling is required to get the pedal angle and correct but there are some great videos to help, and I found I could do it in situ. If you are coming from g25 pedals like me, you will probably need to build yourself a heel plate too, I made mine about 40mm tall nearest the pedals. Oh and get 12 M6 bolts to bolt the pedals down, get longer ones to take into account the fact that the fixing tab is raised about 10 mm from the base of the pedals!
Oh and while you wait for the post, save yourself some grief by digging out or buying a usb 2 type B male to type A male cable and a usb extension cable because it doesn't come with one! The pedal cables are about 60cm long to the breakout box with usb 2 type B socket. So you will need a usb cable to connect to the computer.