Because of this video, I replaced the distributor in my 1999 Mercury villager for less than $75. It cost me in excess of $500 when I took it to the shop. I commend you my friend. Thanks. Slidell, LA
Hey, great video! I've got a 2000 Merc Villager that needed a distributor replaced. Man, you made it easy. In my family, we measure work by beers. You made this a one beer job for me. I hardly even swore. Just the usual amount. This helped my family out of a potentially more expensive jam, so thanks! Keep up the good work.
Thanks so much for your video, I have a 2000 Mercury Villager and has been rough idling for some time now and all of a sudden died at a red light, battery fine, turns over but won't crank. Mechanic can't pinpoint the issue as computers not picking up any codes. He tells me it's either the vans computer or distributer. The more research I do I'm seeing people with this model all having to replace the distributor and your issues also sound very similar to mine. Found a distributor online for $75 shipping included so after watching this video I think my husband and I will give it a go, thanks so much, really helped alot!! ✌
Thank you SOOOOO much! This is the most helpful video that I've found on TH-cam for replacing not just my distributor cap, but the entire distributor. THANK YOU!
Daniel, thanks for posting this. I am not mechanically inclined but after watching your video a couple of times I decided to tackle this project. I replaced the distributor in about 45 minutes from start to finish. You saved me a more than a few bucks with your video. Keep up the great work.
Excellent video, Daniel! I cracked up when the air compressor came on near the end of the video!!! Who in the heck was using that during your filming? It took me 10 seconds to finally read your huge scrolling words before I learned what caused that rowdy distraction! My whole R&R job with the distributor went smooth, except it took me a 15 minutes to get the hang of disconnecting the rectangle plastic plugs. When my arthritic fingers weren't making headway, I just rewound your video to the right spot and THERE YOU WERE showing me a better way to disconnect them. (HINT: it helps to FIRST REMOVE the distributor in order to flip it over to the BOTTOM SIDE and get a better angle at releasing those tight plastic tab rascals.) The engine now purrs like a fresh tune-up, but "Check Engine Light" remained lit up. So, I drove two trips earlier today of about 20 miles and it was still on. And then tonight, I drove 20 miles more and the warning light disappeared completely. Problem solved and I guess I just gave myself a mini-tuneup! (Plugs and spark plug wires are only about 8K miles old.) My compliments to you Daniel! For a homemade video, you didn't hem and haw and keep talking needlessly, with cliche' jiberish like so many other video repair guys do. We've all heard lame crap like....."And next what we're gonna do is this, and then we're gonna take that and then do this.....etc, etc. Don't tell us! Just SHOW US! Your speaking style is right on point and you know instinctively when to talk and when to shut THE HELL UP!!! A good video picture is worth a thousand words. Those other chatterbox amateurs drive me insane and makes me want to jump into a hot bath and open my veins like the ancient Romans did. (Seriously though, I'm a Christian and would never do that.) Thanks much, keep up the good work and I'll subscribe to your channel for more pearls of wisdom.
A huge thank you for this video. I can honestly say you saved me well over $1000. I had all of the problems you described. I thought I was needing a new motor.
Hey hey man wonderful. I saw another video of this with some superhero mechanic and I didn't feel like I had the know how....watching you do it with the same tools I have.....i have a 01 nissan quest....and I'm gonna replace it tommorow. Thanks a bunch.
I have a 2002 mercury villager. When I'm driving down the road my van will start to "buck". I try to get on the gas and it bucks and bucks until I put it in neutral and back into drive. I'm not sure if that's a distributor problem or not. Any help would be great as I am at a loss and not sure what this issue might be. Great video by the way!
Good video; It helps build my confidence that this is the problem with my van, and I can do the work. I ordered the part on Amazon, (Richporter NS60) and the price was lower than your estimate, with next-day shipping on my prime account. Local shops want 600-750 for the PART, and won't install customer-provided parts.
Hey guy like that confidence closed the hood even before you tried to start. Curious how long do the disributers last. I had one go bad about 35000 miles back. At that time it just died. Shaft broke. Now I am experiencing the misfire and sluggish response. Is it going bad agsin
Yeah - my parents refuse to take the car for long distance anymore, but it's going to be my first car when I get my driver's license. We've had the car for 17 years (bought it brand new in 1998), so I can't really blame them.
I have a 1996 with the 3.0 V6. I’m having similar problems with mine. Chugging/hesitation around 1500 RPM. Runs worse when van heats up and very badly when the a/c is on. I know that the 3.3 engine has a different distributor than the 3.0. Could this possibly be the problem with my’96? Thanks and great video!
Enjoyed your video, I have a 2002 Mercury Villager that idles rough at stop signs (misses slightly), I have eliminated as many possibilities as possible except for the distributor. On ebay there are distributors for this vehicle new, for as low as $80.00, including freight. I assume most of these are made in China. Do you think they would be as good as some I see selling for more, like $200 or $300? Thanks
Thomas M Swensen I would think they are probably the same item, as I doubt there are that many different companies manufacturing outdated parts. That being said... I would still but local. I can't remember if I mentioned it in the video (probably not for simplicity)... but I had to bring that new distributor back due to a new problem it created. They tried to convince me that it couldn't be the new distributor... but it was. Mine runs great now... so I hope you get yours going right again since it sounds like the same problem.
I have the identical vehicle that started running bad and then no start. Everything else has pretty much been replaced. When i have someone crank it while I check for spark--the spark does jump out perfect 1/4 inch. Yesterday it started up and revved fine but would not idle nor want to start again. Is it possible that the distributor could be going bad even with good spark when cranking?? With my foot steady on the gas and the engine running the engine would also pulse between 2400 rpm and about 2900 the needle going up and down rythmically. This would be a spendy fix so am curious if you think I am barking up the wrong tree. The mass air flow sensor was also suspect--however unplugging it makes no difference the vehicle wont start. When it does start it starts out of the blue. Starter fluid has zero effect. There was some water in the gas but not much and that may have been an accidental discovery during the other fixes and replacements. The fuel pump fills up gallon jugs in record time so it seems unlikely its going bad although a pressure check has not been done on it.
I'm having somewhat the same issue on my wife's car. who's by the way pissed at me now because her car wont start. I replaced the o2 sensor, spark plugs and cables. Now car wont start! I'm lost!
analyse if its time for the distributor to go bad. Keep in mind theres alot of non serviceable crap in there that all becomes new if you replace it. When i replaced the distributor it started up in a split second. After a few days I replaced the o2 sensor and all is well. I bit the bullet paid the $250 and am glad I did. Theres tons of stuff inside there and the checks would cost more than the distributor. Obviously I dont know what your situation is--but the distributor is highly suspect. ITS USUALLY THE IGNITION CONTROL MODULE THAT GOES BAD
@@KeyWestBluesX. Did your distributor make a loud grinding sound when accelerating hard? My 1996 quest has a horrible low speed bog and that noise I just described. Sound like the distributor?
Mine took a lot of turns to start and slowly kept getting worse. Ended up that the fuel filter was so dirty that it made the pump fail. Now it works great, I just can't get the screw for the rotor off. Not sure if it was flat or Phillips and how small. It looks flat with no slot.
Mine doesn't want to start when its hot, and it idles rough when stopped at red lights. I'm guessing it's this. Do I need to check the timing afterwards? BTW they've gotten way cheaper.
It was replaced due to missing and tripping error codes. The timing is controled by the computer and knock sensor. That being said... you have to have the rotor lined up to the correct terminal on the ignition cap when you reinstall.
hey my van just died on me today do you think that might be the problem it has fuel fuses are OK batt ok cranks just fine don't know if it's the fuel pump
after market distributors are famous for failing within 1-2 years! I know...been there and done that: TWICE!! Stay away from AutoZone, Advance Auto, and MANY colorful, but cheap imitations on Amazon and eBay! Today I bought a Nissan Remanufactured direct from dealership. $238 with 1 year warranty. The durability and construction is such an obvious comparison with the better OEM stuff for a high wearing type part.
I recommend you go to your local auto store and get a book to match the year of your car, it normally runs about $12, however it could be more today. The book will show you where all yours markings are for alignment.
Hi, I had my distributor set to top dead center. The car is still misfiring (check engine code is P0300). This is the third distributor I've tried in the past year. All the other distributors ever since last winter do not smooth the idle. I am starting to give up on this car. Fuel pressure is good (~45 psi on idle), EGR valve works, new o2 sensor, new MAF sensor, air filter is good, two garages say no leaks. I have a brand new pre-cat. Even now, however, when the car idles, I can get out of the car and put my ear close to the muffler and hear a chugging sound, like something is clogged in the exhaust. Is this related to my misfire? I feel like all the garages/dealer I've been to were so incompetent, everything they told me to replace has not fixed the problem.
mangupification ... I don't know.. maybe get rid of the car... this car is costing you a fortune.... maybe change the entire engine and motor.... I mean, how much money have you invested already?....
Because of this video, I replaced the distributor in my 1999 Mercury villager for less than $75. It cost me in excess of $500 when I took it to the shop. I commend you my friend. Thanks.
Slidell, LA
Hey, great video! I've got a 2000 Merc Villager that needed a distributor replaced. Man, you made it easy. In my family, we measure work by beers. You made this a one beer job for me. I hardly even swore. Just the usual amount. This helped my family out of a potentially more expensive jam, so thanks! Keep up the good work.
I can relate to your comments! Check out mine under Scott Ebright above!
Thanks so much for your video, I have a 2000 Mercury Villager and has been rough idling for some time now and all of a sudden died at a red light, battery fine, turns over but won't crank. Mechanic can't pinpoint the issue as computers not picking up any codes. He tells me it's either the vans computer or distributer. The more research I do I'm seeing people with this model all having to replace the distributor and your issues also sound very similar to mine. Found a distributor online for $75 shipping included so after watching this video I think my husband and I will give it a go, thanks so much, really helped alot!! ✌
Thank you SOOOOO much! This is the most helpful video that I've found on TH-cam for replacing not just my distributor cap, but the entire distributor. THANK YOU!
Daniel, thanks for posting this. I am not mechanically inclined but after watching your video a couple of times I decided to tackle this project. I replaced the distributor in about 45 minutes from start to finish. You saved me a more than a few bucks with your video. Keep up the great work.
Excellent video, Daniel! I cracked up when the air compressor came on near the end of the video!!! Who in the heck was using that during your filming? It took me 10 seconds to finally read your huge scrolling words before I learned what caused that rowdy distraction!
My whole R&R job with the distributor went smooth, except it took me a 15 minutes to get the hang of disconnecting the rectangle plastic plugs. When my arthritic fingers weren't making headway, I just rewound your video to the right spot and THERE YOU WERE showing me a better way to disconnect them. (HINT: it helps to FIRST REMOVE the distributor in order to flip it over to the BOTTOM SIDE and get a better angle at releasing those tight plastic tab rascals.)
The engine now purrs like a fresh tune-up, but "Check Engine Light" remained lit up. So, I drove two trips earlier today of about 20 miles and it was still on. And then tonight, I drove 20 miles more and the warning light disappeared completely. Problem solved and I guess I just gave myself a mini-tuneup! (Plugs and spark plug wires are only about 8K miles old.)
My compliments to you Daniel! For a homemade video, you didn't hem and haw and keep talking needlessly, with cliche' jiberish like so many other video repair guys do. We've all heard lame crap like....."And next what we're gonna do is this, and then we're gonna take that and then do this.....etc, etc. Don't tell us! Just SHOW US! Your speaking style is right on point and you know instinctively when to talk and when to shut THE HELL UP!!! A good video picture is worth a thousand words. Those other chatterbox amateurs drive me insane and makes me want to jump into a hot bath and open my veins like the ancient Romans did. (Seriously though, I'm a Christian and would never do that.)
Thanks much, keep up the good work and I'll subscribe to your channel for more pearls of wisdom.
A huge thank you for this video. I can honestly say you saved me well over $1000. I had all of the problems you described. I thought I was needing a new motor.
Saved me $600! Gracias amigo!
He just loves to make those old classic quotes in his videos
Thanks for the video! I'm doing this on a 2000 quest today.
Hey hey man wonderful. I saw another video of this with some superhero mechanic and I didn't feel like I had the know how....watching you do it with the same tools I have.....i have a 01 nissan quest....and I'm gonna replace it tommorow. Thanks a bunch.
I have a 2002 mercury villager. When I'm driving down the road my van will start to "buck". I try to get on the gas and it bucks and bucks until I put it in neutral and back into drive. I'm not sure if that's a distributor problem or not. Any help would be great as I am at a loss and not sure what this issue might be. Great video by the way!
Excellent and User friendly video. Thanks
Good video; It helps build my confidence that this is the problem with my van, and I can do the work. I ordered the part on Amazon, (Richporter NS60) and the price was lower than your estimate, with next-day shipping on my prime account. Local shops want 600-750 for the PART, and won't install customer-provided parts.
Hey guy like that confidence closed the hood even before you tried to start. Curious how long do the disributers last. I had one go bad about 35000 miles back. At that time it just died. Shaft broke. Now I am experiencing the misfire and sluggish response. Is it going bad agsin
Nice! My parent's '98 Villager is still running strong.
+John Appleseed Sometimes I wish it would die... needs motormounts and other items... but just keeps on going. lol
Yeah - my parents refuse to take the car for long distance anymore, but it's going to be my first car when I get my driver's license. We've had the car for 17 years (bought it brand new in 1998), so I can't really blame them.
Wish I had a van as a teenager.... lol!
Thank you so much this was a huge help with my 02 villager
I have a 1996 with the 3.0 V6. I’m having similar problems with mine. Chugging/hesitation around 1500 RPM. Runs worse when van heats up and very badly when the a/c is on. I know that the 3.3 engine has a different distributor than the 3.0. Could this possibly be the problem with my’96? Thanks and great video!
Thank you for this video. Helped me a lot.
You made that look so easy
Thank you very much,I learned a lot ,my car has the same problem and I found it,,,,thanks
erick91402 Thank you for the comment!!!
thanks I will now proceed with confidence
Thanks Daniel
Great hands down he has beautiful hands. Chubby.
Enjoyed your video, I have a 2002 Mercury Villager that idles rough at stop signs (misses slightly), I have eliminated as many possibilities as possible except for the distributor. On ebay there are distributors for this vehicle new, for as low as $80.00, including freight. I assume most of these are made in China. Do you think they would be as good as some I see selling for more, like $200 or $300? Thanks
Thomas M Swensen I would think they are probably the same item, as I doubt there are that many different companies manufacturing outdated parts. That being said... I would still but local. I can't remember if I mentioned it in the video (probably not for simplicity)... but I had to bring that new distributor back due to a new problem it created. They tried to convince me that it couldn't be the new distributor... but it was. Mine runs great now... so I hope you get yours going right again since it sounds like the same problem.
Well done video simple and helpful thanks
I have the identical vehicle that started running bad and then no start. Everything else has pretty much been replaced. When i have someone crank it while I check for spark--the spark does jump out perfect 1/4 inch. Yesterday it started up and revved fine but would not idle nor want to start again. Is it possible that the distributor could be going bad even with good spark when cranking?? With my foot steady on the gas and the engine running the engine would also pulse between 2400 rpm and about 2900 the needle going up and down rythmically. This would be a spendy fix so am curious if you think I am barking up the wrong tree. The mass air flow sensor was also suspect--however unplugging it makes no difference the vehicle wont start. When it does start it starts out of the blue. Starter fluid has zero effect. There was some water in the gas but not much and that may have been an accidental discovery during the other fixes and replacements. The fuel pump fills up gallon jugs in record time so it seems unlikely its going bad although a pressure check has not been done on it.
I'm having somewhat the same issue on my wife's car. who's by the way pissed at me now because her car wont start. I replaced the o2 sensor, spark plugs and cables. Now car wont start! I'm lost!
analyse if its time for the distributor to go bad. Keep in mind theres alot of non serviceable crap in there that all becomes new if you replace it. When i replaced the distributor it started up in a split second. After a few days I replaced the o2 sensor and all is well. I bit the bullet paid the $250 and am glad I did. Theres tons of stuff inside there and the checks would cost more than the distributor. Obviously I dont know what your situation is--but the distributor is highly suspect. ITS USUALLY THE IGNITION CONTROL MODULE THAT GOES BAD
Thnx alot...I'll be pulling that distributor this weekend!
@@KeyWestBluesX. Did your distributor make a loud grinding sound when accelerating hard? My 1996 quest has a horrible low speed bog and that noise I just described. Sound like the distributor?
Great one The proof is in the pudding That's a great one
Mine took a lot of turns to start and slowly kept getting worse. Ended up that the fuel filter was so dirty that it made the pump fail. Now it works great, I just can't get the screw for the rotor off. Not sure if it was flat or Phillips and how small. It looks flat with no slot.
make sure rotor button is tight. mine came loose after distributor change and started backfiring, losing power. wrecker bill. two minute fix
Great video
Thanks for the video
Mine doesn't want to start when its hot, and it idles rough when stopped at red lights. I'm guessing it's this. Do I need to check the timing afterwards? BTW they've gotten way cheaper.
he has a bold stance his shoulders and his arms
your cats are adorable
tnx !!but don't need ignition timing check?
whydid you relace it? i have a same one.
It was replaced due to missing and tripping error codes. The timing is controled by the computer and knock sensor. That being said... you have to have the rotor lined up to the correct terminal on the ignition cap when you reinstall.
if you had listened to the introduction you wouldn't have to ask why
thanks you great video excellent job
What is the little gold thing with wire on the out side of the distributor called
Is this vehicle reliable for a delivery work van in your opinion?
hey my van just died on me today do you think that might be the problem it has fuel fuses are OK batt ok cranks just fine don't know if it's the fuel pump
Good video
thanks
how did you know that it need it to be replace? my van wont start, im guessing that its the distribtor my problem
you can find the distributor on amazon for only $90
after market distributors are famous for failing within 1-2 years! I know...been there and done that: TWICE!! Stay away from AutoZone, Advance Auto, and MANY colorful, but cheap imitations on Amazon and eBay! Today I bought a Nissan Remanufactured direct from dealership. $238 with 1 year warranty. The durability and construction is such an obvious comparison with the better OEM stuff for a high wearing type part.
How do you set the ignition timing in this car? Also, nice cats in the background.
I recommend you go to your local auto store and get a book to match the year of your car, it normally runs about $12, however it could be more today. The book will show you where all yours markings are for alignment.
Hi,
I had my distributor set to top dead center. The car is still misfiring (check engine code is P0300). This is the third distributor I've tried in the past year. All the other distributors ever since last winter do not smooth the idle. I am starting to give up on this car. Fuel pressure is good (~45 psi on idle), EGR valve works, new o2 sensor, new MAF sensor, air filter is good, two garages say no leaks. I have a brand new pre-cat. Even now, however, when the car idles, I can get out of the car and put my ear close to the muffler and hear a chugging sound, like something is clogged in the exhaust. Is this related to my misfire? I feel like all the garages/dealer I've been to were so incompetent, everything they told me to replace has not fixed the problem.
mangupification ... I don't know.. maybe get rid of the car... this car is costing you a fortune.... maybe change the entire engine and motor.... I mean, how much money have you invested already?....
Im getting super bad mpg about 10miles on a villager what do i start with to fix the problem?
I hit the switch by accident with no distributor you think I got it off timing
What a gut.
That man is 350 lbs of raw meat man.
How can you live like that what do you weigh like 390 lb
Do you know how to deflood villagers?
Aaaa8
A distributor in year 2002 !
Camshaft the Distributors on the camshaft sensor that's where it is. it's a camshaft not a crankshaft cam not crank
Como remplasar espid sensor mercuric mountaineer 203
I think you should check the timing
Wait till the last second to take that out of the plastic bag distributor
Repair rear light on Kia Sedona
That distributor should be somewhere in the middle of the adjustment not onto all the way to one side
So my 1996 mercury villager gs v6 3.3l Distributer would be facing at 3 oclock?
Yo lo que quiero saber de dónde aparece el otro gato 🐱🐱😮😮😮
The proof is in the pudding
will an distributor that came out of a 95 nissan pathfinder 3.0i motor work with 88 nissan computer.
Disguise . these guys with all these old caches.