Excellent video, I was looking for how to adjust the time with the light gun. There is a video in Spanish, but the person does not accelerate the truck or disconnect the harness as indicated in the manual.
You actually show stuff people can really use, like how to take specific electrical plugs before you break them, what size bolts heads you might encounter, how long of extensions you might need.
You did a phenomenal job. The only thing I wish you had explained a tiny bit more was what to do when you want to adjust the timing by rotating the distributor… like the whole this? I’m about to attempt this lol. Just want to get it right.
Thank you so much this will definitely help me. Ive watched a bunch of videos on this and the is the one I can understand! I have a 2004 Nissan Xterra with 290,080 miles and it is going to be my first car but it has a problem with idling way to high and stalling once its at operating temperature and stoped (like at a stop sign). Im also going to replace the fuel pump and clean the Idle air control valve and hope it will solve the issue😂. Thank you for reading this and for making this video!
Ahh..the glorious #6 plug! I know that nasty little bastard! Had me a hassle and a half fishing for that SOB too haha! There's a trick to it I discovered much later
Super fucking easy, 2 x 6" extensions with a u joint, and 4 bolts remove the hood. Took me less than 15 minutes and I had never even replaced a spark plug until that point. THere's no need to struggle and #6 plug is not hard with the correct procedure and tools.
Hi i have a 98 Pathfinder 3.3L. I inspected the bottom inside of distributor (under the coil) and the shaft only had about half the ball bearings in it. Could this cause random misfires in all cylinders, P0300 code? The plate that covers the bearings was broken off/loose too. Thanks!
Hi Dan! I’ve had a super similar noise that seemed to be coming from the distributor and multiple mechanics told me it was a bad bearing in it. I replaced the whole thing following your great tutorial and unfortunately I still have the same noise seemingly coming from the distributor. You mentioned possible next steps and was wondering what you would suspect next.
It’s the timing belt ! Its flopping causes the distributor to knock back and forth also the belt flops back and forth slapping the shield , I know because when I was a young inexperienced mechanic I made the same mistake.
thank you for quick comeback not to be nick picking [ i am getting set up to replace mine ] thanks for video it will be refenced ,, are you still driving the nissan or have u sold ? @@diydan7019
Hi I replaced my distributor and now have a hard start condition when the engine is cold and a P0340 code with a SES light on. Starts fine warm and seems to run like a dream compared to the old distributor. What might the cause be for the hard start? I’m stumped
That's what I thought too. Well, the coil is inside the distributor and it has a lifetime warranty, I preferred to change it completely. However, I was wondering which part was constantly failing, whether it was the coil or the ignition module control because the rotor was spinning and the distributor cap looked fine. By the way, excellent video, very well explained.
Did you fix the clattering noise problem? I have the same issue with mine. I'm going to change the distributor today because it seems like it's coming from there
No, it ended up being the timing belt. I’ve done it it fix the problem. I’ve been running it for probably two or three months now I just haven’t had a chance to edit the video because it takes a lot of time but the timing belt fixed that clattering.
So far so good I ended up having to replace the timing belt to get rid of that noise and I will have a video come up shortly. If that’s the same reason you’re thinking of doing the distributor
Hello I have a 98 Pathfinder 3.3L, 230,000 miles. I changed the spark plugs and wires, and the distributor as its bearings had failed. I marked the old distributor in 3 places plus the center of the rotor, and reinstalled the new one exactly as the old one came out. It doesn't have the random misfires anymore. It always has idled about 950 in Park rather than 700ish. But in Drive it drops to 700rpm when at a stop. Is this normal for yours also? I checked the timing advance via my OBD2 scanner and it's showing 8 at idle (950rpm) in Park, but goes to 15 when placed in Drive (at a stop). Does this mean 8 degrees BTDC? So it's retarded too much eh? Which way do I turn the distributor to Advance the timing closer to 15 degrees BTDC while in Park? Which way to make it read closer to spec, which is 13 to 17 BTDC in Park? Can I just turn the distributor very gradually without disconnecting any sensors and watching my OBD2 Timing Advance screen, stopping it at 15? I do not have a timing light. To advance these (from 8 to 15), is it turned counterclockwise or clockwise? Thanks much!
Can anyone help? I bought a used 99 Nissan Quest and needed to replace the distributor. It was set to advance and was running fine! Well, I had to replace it, and checking the timing it was WAY off? and setting it to 15* it's now over to the "retard" side and I have a misfire. Tried putting it back where it's marked but wow it's worse! Thank you for any help.😊
Use your timing marks to get to tdc then position the distributor so the rotor is pointing at the no 1 cylinder on the cap hopefully you kept good track of your wires that should get you close the only problem with that is you might be 360 off so if it runs like crap take it off rotate engine 360 do the same thing then check with a timing light to fine tune
Hey this video was awesome! I'm about to do my distributor
Prob one of the best videos out for these 3.3l
Great video! No nonsense. Good ole timing light...You need to do a water pump video...
I’ve got the videos I just haven’t had time to edit it
Excellent video, I was looking for how to adjust the time with the light gun. There is a video in Spanish, but the person does not accelerate the truck or disconnect the harness as indicated in the manual.
You actually show stuff people can really use, like how to take specific electrical plugs before you break them, what size bolts heads you might encounter, how long of extensions you might need.
Thank you so much. This is the only vehicle ive owned that needed a distributor changed.
Excellent, excellent, video. Thank you!
You did a phenomenal job. The only thing I wish you had explained a tiny bit more was what to do when you want to adjust the timing by rotating the distributor… like the whole this? I’m about to attempt this lol. Just want to get it right.
Thank you so much this will definitely help me. Ive watched a bunch of videos on this and the is the one I can understand! I have a 2004 Nissan Xterra with 290,080 miles and it is going to be my first car but it has a problem with idling way to high and stalling once its at operating temperature and stoped (like at a stop sign). Im also going to replace the fuel pump and clean the Idle air control valve and hope it will solve the issue😂. Thank you for reading this and for making this video!
Did that fix your issue?
Sounds crazy, but remove the hood and it’s a piece of cake to take out and replace that back plug
Ahh..the glorious #6 plug! I know that nasty little bastard! Had me a hassle and a half fishing for that SOB too haha! There's a trick to it I discovered much later
Well share.... I just laid on top of the engine with my left arm shoved under the wire harness just enough I could use my fingertips as a guide
Super fucking easy, 2 x 6" extensions with a u joint, and 4 bolts remove the hood. Took me less than 15 minutes and I had never even replaced a spark plug until that point. THere's no need to struggle and #6 plug is not hard with the correct procedure and tools.
Took me 5 min maybe less 🥱
Hi i have a 98 Pathfinder 3.3L. I inspected the bottom inside of distributor (under the coil) and the shaft only had about half the ball bearings in it. Could this cause random misfires in all cylinders, P0300 code? The plate that covers the bearings was broken off/loose too. Thanks!
@@thesetruths1404 yes if the bearing is shot the shaft is not going to stay centered which could cause the rotor not to deliver the spark properly
Hi Dan! I’ve had a super similar noise that seemed to be coming from the distributor and multiple mechanics told me it was a bad bearing in it. I replaced the whole thing following your great tutorial and unfortunately I still have the same noise seemingly coming from the distributor. You mentioned possible next steps and was wondering what you would suspect next.
Basically I’m wondering if replacing the timing belt fixed the noise hahaha. Thanks again for the great video!
Yes it ended up being the timing belt being loose and hitting the cover just a year behind in editing videos and don’t have it posted yet
It’s the timing belt ! Its flopping causes the distributor to knock back and forth also the belt flops back and forth slapping the shield , I know because when I was a young inexperienced mechanic I made the same mistake.
Will this work on my 2001 nissan frontier 3.3 v6 2wd, and what is the top dead center mark on the pully?
Take the distributer cap off, check the small thin plate under the rotor
I use 2 extensions and a u joint for that plug on the back
are you happy with the distributor from amazon //??? any long term problems with new distributor
No issues yet
thank you for quick comeback not to be nick picking [ i am getting set up to replace mine ] thanks for video it will be refenced ,, are you still driving the nissan or have u sold ?
@@diydan7019
❤😂 champion Australian mechanic
Hi I replaced my distributor and now have a hard start condition when the engine is cold and a P0340 code with a SES light on. Starts fine warm and seems to run like a dream compared to the old distributor. What might the cause be for the hard start? I’m stumped
question, how bad is the distributor on this engine? I've already changed it twice and the problem has been lack of spark
Sounds to me like you might have a bad coil or wiring issue I doubt that the distributors are going bad continuously
That's what I thought too. Well, the coil is inside the distributor and it has a lifetime warranty, I preferred to change it completely. However, I was wondering which part was constantly failing, whether it was the coil or the ignition module control because the rotor was spinning and the distributor cap looked fine.
By the way, excellent video, very well explained.
Did you fix the clattering noise problem? I have the same issue with mine. I'm going to change the distributor today because it seems like it's coming from there
No, it ended up being the timing belt. I’ve done it it fix the problem. I’ve been running it for probably two or three months now I just haven’t had a chance to edit the video because it takes a lot of time but the timing belt fixed that clattering.
thank you so much.
Buying a cheaper distributor is it still working
So far so good I ended up having to replace the timing belt to get rid of that noise and I will have a video come up shortly. If that’s the same reason you’re thinking of doing the distributor
Can You show or identify the 6 pin plug the go in the the distributor please
Hello I have a 98 Pathfinder 3.3L, 230,000 miles. I changed the spark plugs and wires, and the distributor as its bearings had failed. I marked the old distributor in 3 places plus the center of the rotor, and reinstalled the new one exactly as the old one came out. It doesn't have the random misfires anymore. It always has idled about 950 in Park rather than 700ish. But in Drive it drops to 700rpm when at a stop. Is this normal for yours also?
I checked the timing advance via my OBD2 scanner and it's showing 8 at idle (950rpm) in Park, but goes to 15 when placed in Drive (at a stop). Does this mean 8 degrees BTDC? So it's retarded too much eh? Which way do I turn the distributor to Advance the timing closer to 15 degrees BTDC while in Park?
Which way to make it read closer to spec, which is 13 to 17 BTDC in Park?
Can I just turn the distributor very gradually without disconnecting any sensors and watching my OBD2 Timing Advance screen, stopping it at 15? I do not have a timing light. To advance these (from 8 to 15), is it turned counterclockwise or clockwise?
Thanks much!
Yes loosen the bolt holding the distributor and slowly turn it you can do this while it is running
Can anyone help? I bought a used 99 Nissan Quest and needed to replace the distributor. It was set to advance and was running fine! Well, I had to replace it, and checking the timing it was WAY off? and setting it to 15* it's now over to the "retard" side and I have a misfire. Tried putting it back where it's marked but wow it's worse! Thank you for any help.😊
Torque down for plugs
Exhaust leak is the noise
Nope it ended up being the timing belt
@@diydan7019 Thats the answer they were really looking for hehe.
@@lesrinehart933 nope it ended up being the timing belt
I pulled mine off with out marking how can I reinstall
Use your timing marks to get to tdc then position the distributor so the rotor is pointing at the no 1 cylinder on the cap hopefully you kept good track of your wires that should get you close the only problem with that is you might be 360 off so if it runs like crap take it off rotate engine 360 do the same thing then check with a timing light to fine tune
Good luck 👍
Yeah those connectors can be a bitch