Oh wow this is amazing to watch, I became a helper to a master tech at a ford dealership, main thing is transmission, I tear these things out and apart all the time , it’s definitely fun for me. But this new upgrade is definitely cool, I am not a car guy or have a lot of knowledge of the internals of engines and transmissions, got out of military and wanted to learn the trade. This upgrade of the 10r80 looks more fun to do. If this makes more money and offers more knowledge I would definitely want to sign up to work there.
Who puts the heat shield retainer studs in and at the correct location? Very awesome to watch the case load here. Please show the valve body install and discuss the oil pumps ,harnesses and solenoids. what are the endplay specs? Thank you for sharing this knowledge. As a retired RandR guy I always wanted to be on the bench and now I'm getting TH-cam college.
We're planning on doing a 10R80 valve body/pump video at a later date. As far as endplay, we go off book specs of two to eleven thousandths. Glad you enjoyed the video!
Thanks for the video, I was just wondering why you're installing the friction linings dry. Wouldn't you normally saturate the friction linings with ATF before installing? Or is that old thinking? Cheers
Great question! With modern friction materials and how modern transmissions operate, there's really not a need to. Once you do your initial fill and put the truck in drive on a modern transmission, everything inside is essentially wet and lubricated at the line pressures that modern transmissions push (even if we do bump line pressures for performance applications with the valve body modifications we make). Friction materials these days are also GREATLY improved than they were in the past and much less prone to burn-up. Putting the transmission together dry (other than assembly lube and minor amounts of ATF in the pump gears and other components) makes assembly easier with essentially no downsides on the 10R80s.
@@tieronetransmissions Thanks so much for your detailed reply, I can absolutely see that dry clutch installation would be easier than doing it wet, but I was always told that dry installation meant friction lining burn out on first application. Good to know that this is working for you, Really appreciate the response, going to subscribe to your channel, cheers!
Great question! The GPZ clutches have a more aggressive friction material than stock, which causes slightly firmer shifts in general. However, this can cause REALLY firm shifts during the relearn period since the 10R80 is a "learning" transmission controlled by the PCM. To be fair to Ford, the PCM software does a good job of smoothing things out over time, but that initial relearn period can see some harsh shifting.
They're different enough to be annoying. Despite being derivatives of ZF's 10-speed, both Ford and GM made some changes that hoses you on interchangeability a bit. The major differences on the 10L80 versus the 10R80 are the idler gear and bearing (which causes whine and potential failures on the 10Ls), the pan, case, output shaft, and valve body. They do share the same clutches, CDF drum, outer shell, and a lot of the smaller internal components and seals. We're looking to get into the 10L80s here pretty soon, but the interchangeability issues have slowed us up a bit.
@@machine7767 Every valve body gets the Ratiotek kit and solenoid clips. We thoroughly vacuum test the PR valve bore and TCC priority valve bore, if the plugs show a leakage they get swapped.
Some kind of builders prerogative. Have never seen builders not use vise grips. For example THM400 gets a good shaking! But you and me are not authorized and I even advocate no air tools. The old dudes had no fingertips. minus ten! They boldly goed into multishaft trucks like Eaton 13 speed and such. Today we keep our fingers but RIP on those Taryton smokin Carling Black label dudes. I my opinion after bolting on a zillion heads and intakes you get a mindset for flatness that stays with the process during a build. Tranny dudes as a whole are not there usually. Another thing, in ramblidge, none consider the high frequency vibrations and the resonance effects during snap ring placement but thats dogma really mystery bs.
Oh wow this is amazing to watch, I became a helper to a master tech at a ford dealership, main thing is transmission, I tear these things out and apart all the time , it’s definitely fun for me. But this new upgrade is definitely cool, I am not a car guy or have a lot of knowledge of the internals of engines and transmissions, got out of military and wanted to learn the trade. This upgrade of the 10r80 looks more fun to do. If this makes more money and offers more knowledge I would definitely want to sign up to work there.
Who puts the heat shield retainer studs in and at the correct location? Very awesome to watch the case load here. Please show the valve body install and discuss the oil pumps ,harnesses and solenoids. what are the endplay specs? Thank you for sharing this knowledge. As a retired RandR guy I always wanted to be on the bench and now I'm getting TH-cam college.
We're planning on doing a 10R80 valve body/pump video at a later date. As far as endplay, we go off book specs of two to eleven thousandths. Glad you enjoyed the video!
I’ve never seen anyone stack of 10R like that before wild. Who makes the shift kits?
We use RatioTek kits. Specifically their RT-10R80-PRX kits for our Stage 1 and Stage 2 10R80s, and the RT-10R80-PR kit for our HD Tow units.
Thanks for the video, I was just wondering why you're installing the friction linings dry. Wouldn't you normally saturate the friction linings with ATF before installing? Or is that old thinking? Cheers
Great question! With modern friction materials and how modern transmissions operate, there's really not a need to. Once you do your initial fill and put the truck in drive on a modern transmission, everything inside is essentially wet and lubricated at the line pressures that modern transmissions push (even if we do bump line pressures for performance applications with the valve body modifications we make). Friction materials these days are also GREATLY improved than they were in the past and much less prone to burn-up.
Putting the transmission together dry (other than assembly lube and minor amounts of ATF in the pump gears and other components) makes assembly easier with essentially no downsides on the 10R80s.
@@tieronetransmissions Thanks so much for your detailed reply, I can absolutely see that dry clutch installation would be easier than doing it wet, but I was always told that dry installation meant friction lining burn out on first application. Good to know that this is working for you, Really appreciate the response, going to subscribe to your channel, cheers!
Thanks for subscribing! Let us know if you have any more questions.
“Makes relearn a pain, but they hold a lot better” .. can you explain that further? 6:56
Great question! The GPZ clutches have a more aggressive friction material than stock, which causes slightly firmer shifts in general. However, this can cause REALLY firm shifts during the relearn period since the 10R80 is a "learning" transmission controlled by the PCM. To be fair to Ford, the PCM software does a good job of smoothing things out over time, but that initial relearn period can see some harsh shifting.
Can we see a video on the differences between stage 1 stage 2 stage 3 on the 68rfe in parts internally.
Absolutely. It's one that we're actively working on!
Torque Mark Torque Mark, Not Torque Torque Torque Mark Mark Mark.
How different is this to the 10L80E from GM?
They're different enough to be annoying. Despite being derivatives of ZF's 10-speed, both Ford and GM made some changes that hoses you on interchangeability a bit. The major differences on the 10L80 versus the 10R80 are the idler gear and bearing (which causes whine and potential failures on the 10Ls), the pan, case, output shaft, and valve body.
They do share the same clutches, CDF drum, outer shell, and a lot of the smaller internal components and seals. We're looking to get into the 10L80s here pretty soon, but the interchangeability issues have slowed us up a bit.
Do you install any Sonnax parts in the valvebody, like end plugs with o rings, or the heavy duty solenoid clips? Or just the Ratiotek kit?
@@machine7767 Every valve body gets the Ratiotek kit and solenoid clips. We thoroughly vacuum test the PR valve bore and TCC priority valve bore, if the plugs show a leakage they get swapped.
Whats a build like this cost?
Take a look at the build listing on our site! tieronetransmissions.com/17-24-f150-stage-2-725-10r80-transmission
Surely there's a better way than to grab the spline with VICE GRIPS! to lift it in??.. could risk damaging the teeth??
@@patrickwilliams8582 as long as they don’t slip, you’re not damaging the teeth.
Can you put some rubber hose over the vice grip jaws?
@@machine7767
Absolutely, you should use something to protect those teeth.
Some kind of builders prerogative. Have never seen builders not use vise grips. For example THM400 gets a good shaking! But you and me are not authorized and I even advocate no air tools. The old dudes had no fingertips. minus ten! They boldly goed into multishaft trucks like Eaton 13 speed and such. Today we keep our fingers but RIP on those Taryton smokin Carling Black label dudes. I my opinion after bolting on a zillion heads and intakes you get a mindset for flatness that stays with the process during a build. Tranny dudes as a whole are not there usually. Another thing, in ramblidge, none consider the high frequency vibrations and the resonance effects during snap ring placement but thats dogma really mystery bs.