It removes all the unsprung weight from the floating spindle. Making the reaction significantly better. This is the main reason for this type of suspension. What is unsprung weight? It's anything under the shock and spring. The outside portion of the A Arms, the drive end of the CV axle, the spindle, the caliper and rotor, and the wheel. What he could have done is used a 2:1 pivot arm using smaller springs for the same rate. If you have two inches of movement on the coilovers to one inch of suspension travel you do what? Double the spring rate. At a 1:1 pivot it's just unsprung weight reduction. Using a 2.5:1 or 3:1 etc you can use smaller lighter springs and your damping performance is greatly enhanced because you are using more travel in the shock. Then you are improving suspension and reducing weight. I'm going through all kinds of videos to see if anyone has created something amazing.. To really reduce mass use a 12" hollow torsion bar at the pivot and just a shock, no spring required.
I know this was a while ago, but wheel rate to spring rate is the square of motion ratio, right? So a 2:1 motion ratio ends up being 4 times the spring rate. Also important is the angles on the rocker arm determine how that ratio changes throughout the travel. If at full droop your pushrod pushes perpendicular to where it mounts to the rocker arm and at full bump, your spring pushes perpendicular to where it mounts to the rocker arm, you end up with what's called a rising rate, which is a very good thing for performance driving, is more comfortable and helps with body roll.
@@LifeInJambles That's a different calculation. Say you have an extended A arm. A standard coilover mounted inboard is moving up much less than the wheel itself. This is when that comes into play for spring rate. Due to placement on the A arm (essentially a lever) the spring rate has to be that much greater. Fix the arm in position, do your corner weights, and you are ready to take the rate measurements. With the car up, move the wheel from ride height up 4 inches or so. With the wheel up 4 inches, how far up did the bottom coilover mount go up? That's where you use that calculation. The cantilever is a straight ratio if attachment is 90 degrees. It gets more complicated with angled pushrods etc. You can find the exact rate easily enough with a scale or tension measuring tool. Just push or pull on it to see what it takes to hold it at ride height. For shock length move the wheel through full travel, see how much it moves at the cantilever. Between measured ride height corner weight with suspension locked and requirements to hold at ride height pushing or pulling cantilever depending how you can get to it, you can extrapolate the ratio from there.
@@curvs4me it doesn't matter if you have a control arm mounted shock/spring package or if it's attached by a rocker arm. If the spring moves half the distance of the wheel, the wheel has double the leverage AND only has to compress the spring half the distance. That's where the squaring happens, and neither the spring nor the wheel has any idea whether or not there's a rocker arm in the middle. Motion ratio being squared for wheel rate calculations is a function of leverage and compression distance. Has nothing to do with mounting, other than that mounting's effect on motion ratio.
The IRS in Gittin's foxbody (used to be my car years ago) is a '01 IRS with full-tilt boogie upgrades. I'm sure he has adjusted it since he bought it, but I was running pretty soft springs out back, probably too soft. I can't remember the rates anymore. I preferred the IRS over the stock setup with a panhard. I am running a MM Torque arm on my current build, but I am not sure I prefer it over the IRS.
Stock rear spring rate for the 03/04 cobra coupes are 600lb. Steeda sport springs are 650lb. Because of their location in the control arm they have to be higher rated than say a coilover spring because the coilover spring is located farther outward thus not needing such a high rate. If you are experiencing excessive spin try lowering the spring rate, or lowering the compression dampening on the shock itself. A suggestion I would add is jack the car all the way up until the cantilevers are almost touching the top of the shock tower. Measure the distance from the top bolts on the cantilevers where the coilovers attach and have a limiting strap made. That will allow you to Jack up the car and not have the pushrod contact the shock towers.
Not sure what sway bar and end links you are running but there are a couple different company's out there that make stuffer sway bars and you can make your own heim end, end links. I had almost everything one could do to an irs in my 01 cobra but I eventually swapped to a solid axle for drag racing. Just an fyi, I weighed every component as I removed them. A solid axle set-up is right at 110lbs lighter than the complete irs
andy campbell Thx for the info, i read a lot of conflicting stuff about the steeda springs, i thought they were 250lbs lol, I knew the IRS added some weight to the rear, i thought it was much more, so i never tried to figure it out, i didn't really want to know lol. i understand that lower spring rate will give me more forward grip and speed for drifting, but like i said, it's a trade off, i don't want to go back to breaking my fenders, That's what initiated this whole project in the first place. i don't have any clearance issues while jacking the car, everything stays within pretty good range. Initially when i was dialing my height in, i lowered it too much and the springs were coming un seated, but that's all corrected now.
@@Sgt.Slides I'm in the process of fabbing up my own set-up like this but I'm using a solid axle. The idea of unsprung weight intrigued me along with, like you, I hate having to climb under my car every time I need to adjust something. I'm going to attempt an anti-roll bar mounted inside as well, use the pushrod end where it attaches to the cantilever as the anti-roll bar end link.
Plan on doing the same to my Raptor swapped (yes... it is, the 6.2L barely fits) and IRS equipped 89. Just one quick thing: Shocks and Struts are both dampers. A strut is an integral part of the suspension, if you remove it the suspension is undefined and the upright can move however it wants. A shock is NOT integral to the suspension. If the shock is removed the suspension still functions, just without damping. The upright is still controlled by the control arms. Best way to think of it is this: Remember the front suspension on your fox? That's a strut for your damper. If you remove it, the front suspension doesn't function and the front upright flops around. The strut takes the place of the upper control arm. Out back, if you look, you'll have Shocks. If you remove them, the upright is still constrained to move how it was designed because the shock only provides damping and isn't integral in keeping the upright from flopping about. Very few cars have struts out back. Most cars today have struts up front. Corvettes don't, most high end super cars don't, they use Shocks because the front suspension is a double wishbone suspension. I hope that helps! Great work! You may want to address the body work contact issue long term though. Either that or increase the front stiffness some to regain balance. Ideally, no tire to bodywork contact throughout the range of motion should occur. :) In off to see if you divulged what you used for the push rods so I can hourly find an easy solution! Hoping you divulge your ratio on the rocker too. I calculated mine out to get a 1:1 spring to wheel rate. The rocker is 4":4.7" for the hole spacing since our IRS has a default motion ratio of 0.7.
Thank you for distinguishing a shock vs a strut, I didn't know that, also, long term wise, the tire isn't hitting the fender on big bumps. my rocker arms are 1.25 ratio and I used 550lb springs by mistake, they are just a tad too stiff, i'll eventually swap in some 500's, but for now every thing is fine. I'm pretty sure i gave all of that info on the install vid, check that one out for more grainy details. You got any vids or instagram of your raptor swapped car? i'd love to see that and chat with you about it.
@@Sgt.Slides No problem! :) I watched through the other video and I didn't see any hard details on the wall thickness or material on the pushrods, but I need to rewatch it again since I was distracted when I was watching it. I gave the wrong number, my calculated ratio is 1:1.425 (4"x5.75"). With the Cobra IRS's factory motion ratio, and that rocker ratio, it produces a near 1:1 Wheel Compression to Spring Compression ratio (1" of wheel travel = 1" of spring compression). I need to get on the phone with Ridetech and see if the shocks I bought from them, which use the traditional Foxbody rear shock mounting method (I think they call it a bayonet mount? Where you have a rubber washer on the underside and top side of the sheet metal the shock mounts to and it's bolted down from inside), are going to work in an environment with that much angular movement of the shock. I forget my total spring rates, but I believe I went with 600 out back. My upfront spring rate, I believe, is 550. I will most likely also be changing my rear spring rate when the time comes! :) If Ridetech says the shocks wont be able to deal with that much change in angle during suspension motion (not worried about them not being able to handle being on their side, they are monotubes like your Vikings are), I'll send them back and see if I can't get them revalved while they change the mounting method. Or I'll just get creative with a welder! :D As for my Fox, I sadly DON'T have an Instagram and my TH-cam channel for my car stuff (this is my video game channel lol), doesn't have any Fox content on it, just my autocrossing my other Mustangs. I DO have a Blog though, which I haven't updated in ages, as well as a Facebook Page for my "racing team" (which is a joke among my autocross friends). My Blog: cone502racing.blogspot.com/ Facebook Page: facebook.com/Cone-502-Racing-818459528199614 The latest post on the blog (November of 2018.... -_-... it's been too long since I updated it), shows the status of the car, mostly. The only changes from that blog to today, is the Maximum Motorsports K-Member, forward offset SN95 arms, and front Ridetech Coilovers up front are installed, they aren't out back yet. Car as a whole, right now: Drivetrain: -Ford 6.2L SOHC V8 -Tremec TR3650 -03 Cobra IRS -McLeod RST Twin Disc Clutch -McLeod Aluminum flywheel -Megasquirt MS3 Pro Ultimate ECU Suspension: -Ridetech TQ3 triple adjustable coilovers -Maximum Motorsports K-Member -Maximum Motorsports Forward Offset SN95 Arms -Maximum Motorsports K-Member drop (quarter inch, I think?) Misc: -Ron Francis Wiring replacement wiring kit (this car had some electrical issues when I bought it, decided to start over) Planned Updates: -Torsen T2R, unknown on gearing, probably 4.10's or 3.73's -Maximum Motorsports front swaybar (hopefully it fits with the 6.2L up front) -Unknown if I'll run a rear swaybar -Aeromotive Complete Fuel System -FTBR Cobra IRS bushing kit -FTBR Cobra IRS brace I've got a LONG way to go. I just recently sat down, after a year of not working on the car (had a job change which involved moving an hour and a half away, buying a new house, and remodeling said house, so not much free time) and designed up the motor mount sketches and sent them off to have parts laser cut so I can at least START to get the motor in permanently. The nice part about the 6.2L is it uses enough parts from other Ford Modular V8's (Cam and crank sensors are the same as a Coyote's, so that helps with tuning! :)). The downside is there is nothing to just "swap" this motor into the car. No prebuilt exhausts, coyote exhaust headers aren't even CLOSE, and I'm 99.99% sure I'll have to run manual brakes and custom modify THOSE to get them around the heads. And the motor mounts... they aren't the same spacing as a Ford Modular V8 motor mounts... the bolt holes are just far enough apart to where you can only get two bolts in on the mount and the third is about an inch shy of mounting up to the third bolt hole... hence the custom motor mounts. But, when it's all said and done, it should be a great project and a head turner! I only know of ONE other Fox with a 6.2L in it, it was the Calypso green one on SVT Performance years ago. He went carbbed, I'm staying EFI. He was a drag car so cut a bunch of stuff out that I have to keep for rigidity. I plan on running big wide tires at all four corners (305 at a minimum, 335 is the goal), he had big and littles. He gutted his car, mine wont be gutted (although it is now =O). I need to update both of my pages with new details though. Hoping to get back to working on the car so I can get it running again!
@@Whiskey11Gaming yeah, i have no idea about wall thickness, i literally just walked thru home depot looking for tubing that looked heavy enough, it's just a section of 1 inch pipe, the heavy stuff for like natural gas lines. 600lb springs will probably be fine for you with your lower ratio pivots, also, by rear shocks are the viking kit for an o3 cobra IRS mustang, just without the mounts that go in the shock towers. they are 2 way adjustable so the valving can be whatever i want it.
I think Sr. Gordon Murray said it best; "What a push rod suspension allows your to do is to softly dampen the car". i.e. since the force is no at an angle say 35 degrees, the force on the shock will now be about half; so you now need half the shock.
Great video bud, however, if you have a spring in the back of a solid axle vehicle bearing the load the "strut" you mention is just a shock/dampener. A strut is an integral component to your vehicle, as in supporting the weight of the vehicle. Or, it is a shock with a spring. In the case of a solid axle mustang you will have coil springs and shocks/dampeners for controlling the compression and rebound. Basically, it's a shock, not a strut. Other than that keep up the good work and I'll be watching for more on your cantilever suspension.
I'll say it again, I love your push rod or rocker arm setup. Please stop calling it a cantilever. I know you aren't the only one who does but it's not correct. A cantilever is not a moving system. It's a support system. You have never once heard an engine builder say" I've just put roller cantilevers in my heads." Because rocker arms are not cantilevers. Check out the definition of cantilever. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cantilever
Great job. I was curious - how did u determine the dimensions / geometry of the bell cranks and the length of the pushrods? Also how do you select the coil over for your application? Was the length/travel important? I know that the bell crank can be like a rocker arm on a cylinder head which can have a ratio. Thanks in advance. The reason why I ask is if the vehicle used does not have a specific "kit".
@@dave99887 Luckily, half of the R&D was done for me by my friend Ivan who originated the design on his car. he provided me the parts and the rest was up to me to figure out based on photos. The coil overs were already designed for the cobra IRS, however, they were re purposed and used as you see here. The push rod length was a little tricky to figure out, Using measurements from photos, I determined how much the shocks would compress under the weight of the car, I jacked the car up to my expected ride height with the wheels touching the ground, and I tacked everything into place where I thought it should go. Kind of nerve-wracking because i couldn't test it under load until everything was fully welded up, which means if i got it wrong, i'd have to do a whole lot of cutting and re welding, luckily i had a lot of adjustability built into my design and i could easily dial it right where I needed it to be once it was all together.
@@Sgt.Slides Bro you installed a falling-rate suspension--meaning the spring rate (and dampening) reduces exponentially as coilover compresses. This is the opposite of a well-handled design.
Such a shame you put a LS into a fox body.. fyi I just walked and 2014 scat pack charger from 55-120 stock block 302 heads, cam, intake, roller rockers, Bigger throttle body, mass air Conversion, bassani down pipes and x pipes, 86 Saleen clone. My engine runs on the strong side but I have more then enough power to give any modern car sh!t stains after they test me.. I will give you cool points for doing your own thing but as far as TH-cam is concerned you cut off a large number of new subscribers going the LS route. I'm still subed but I stopped watching your content the big engine reveal video.. I almost puked in my mouth smh... I would have been happier if you did put an AMG motor or even an,,,,, , , and I can't believe I'm saying this,,,, an Dodge hemi 5.7 ,6.1 ,or 6.4
I never built this car or this channel for attention or subscribers. I built it to share my build, and things i learned that you don't see anywhere else and make a log to look back on. very few vids on this channel are LS specific, and if that's enough to scare off any ford boi purists, they're going to miss out on some neat stuff. Their loss, not mine, and beating a 392 charger with simple bolt ons in a 302 is highly doubtful. My 302 was pretty high strung, i had every bolt on without power adders, but the only way i'd beat a 392 car is with a horrible driver behind the wheel.
It removes all the unsprung weight from the floating spindle. Making the reaction significantly better. This is the main reason for this type of suspension. What is unsprung weight? It's anything under the shock and spring. The outside portion of the A Arms, the drive end of the CV axle, the spindle, the caliper and rotor, and the wheel. What he could have done is used a 2:1 pivot arm using smaller springs for the same rate. If you have two inches of movement on the coilovers to one inch of suspension travel you do what? Double the spring rate. At a 1:1 pivot it's just unsprung weight reduction. Using a 2.5:1 or 3:1 etc you can use smaller lighter springs and your damping performance is greatly enhanced because you are using more travel in the shock. Then you are improving suspension and reducing weight. I'm going through all kinds of videos to see if anyone has created something amazing.. To really reduce mass use a 12" hollow torsion bar at the pivot and just a shock, no spring required.
Damn. The more I read, the more I realize that this is perhaps not for beginner fabricators
I know this was a while ago, but wheel rate to spring rate is the square of motion ratio, right?
So a 2:1 motion ratio ends up being 4 times the spring rate. Also important is the angles on the rocker arm determine how that ratio changes throughout the travel. If at full droop your pushrod pushes perpendicular to where it mounts to the rocker arm and at full bump, your spring pushes perpendicular to where it mounts to the rocker arm, you end up with what's called a rising rate, which is a very good thing for performance driving, is more comfortable and helps with body roll.
Really handy to have soft suspension at ride height that gradually gets stiffer as it compresses.
@@LifeInJambles That's a different calculation. Say you have an extended A arm. A standard coilover mounted inboard is moving up much less than the wheel itself. This is when that comes into play for spring rate. Due to placement on the A arm (essentially a lever) the spring rate has to be that much greater.
Fix the arm in position, do your corner weights, and you are ready to take the rate measurements. With the car up, move the wheel from ride height up 4 inches or so. With the wheel up 4 inches, how far up did the bottom coilover mount go up? That's where you use that calculation. The cantilever is a straight ratio if attachment is 90 degrees. It gets more complicated with angled pushrods etc. You can find the exact rate easily enough with a scale or tension measuring tool. Just push or pull on it to see what it takes to hold it at ride height. For shock length move the wheel through full travel, see how much it moves at the cantilever. Between measured ride height corner weight with suspension locked and requirements to hold at ride height pushing or pulling cantilever depending how you can get to it, you can extrapolate the ratio from there.
@@curvs4me it doesn't matter if you have a control arm mounted shock/spring package or if it's attached by a rocker arm. If the spring moves half the distance of the wheel, the wheel has double the leverage AND only has to compress the spring half the distance. That's where the squaring happens, and neither the spring nor the wheel has any idea whether or not there's a rocker arm in the middle.
Motion ratio being squared for wheel rate calculations is a function of leverage and compression distance. Has nothing to do with mounting, other than that mounting's effect on motion ratio.
I love it when there is no neccesarily reason except "because I wanted to " good on you man.
The beauty of that setup alone! Love this car!
Dude you're my favorite foxbody channel. Every mod u make, I end up wanting. Lol! Keep up the great work man!
thx bro!
A Fox Body is the unsung hero of the drift world... I plan on doing the same thing on my Boosted K24 Mid Engine Swapped 69 C10 😎
The IRS in Gittin's foxbody (used to be my car years ago) is a '01 IRS with full-tilt boogie upgrades. I'm sure he has adjusted it since he bought it, but I was running pretty soft springs out back, probably too soft. I can't remember the rates anymore. I preferred the IRS over the stock setup with a panhard. I am running a MM Torque arm on my current build, but I am not sure I prefer it over the IRS.
ahhh, very cool. I may have chatted with you at some point way back when i bought this fox.
Holy crap I love this set up! Makes me want to run this on my soon to be drift 4 eye
4 eyes are the best looking front ends. I'm thinking about cutting up a 82 mercury capri / FB liftback 4 eye.
Super dope..way to push the envelope as usual..🏁👍
Stock rear spring rate for the 03/04 cobra coupes are 600lb. Steeda sport springs are 650lb.
Because of their location in the control arm they have to be higher rated than say a coilover spring because the coilover spring is located farther outward thus not needing such a high rate.
If you are experiencing excessive spin try lowering the spring rate, or lowering the compression dampening on the shock itself.
A suggestion I would add is jack the car all the way up until the cantilevers are almost touching the top of the shock tower. Measure the distance from the top bolts on the cantilevers where the coilovers attach and have a limiting strap made. That will allow you to Jack up the car and not have the pushrod contact the shock towers.
Not sure what sway bar and end links you are running but there are a couple different company's out there that make stuffer sway bars and you can make your own heim end, end links. I had almost everything one could do to an irs in my 01 cobra but I eventually swapped to a solid axle for drag racing.
Just an fyi, I weighed every component as I removed them. A solid axle set-up is right at 110lbs lighter than the complete irs
andy campbell Thx for the info, i read a lot of conflicting stuff about the steeda springs, i thought they were 250lbs lol, I knew the IRS added some weight to the rear, i thought it was much more, so i never tried to figure it out, i didn't really want to know lol. i understand that lower spring rate will give me more forward grip and speed for drifting, but like i said, it's a trade off, i don't want to go back to breaking my fenders, That's what initiated this whole project in the first place. i don't have any clearance issues while jacking the car, everything stays within pretty good range. Initially when i was dialing my height in, i lowered it too much and the springs were coming un seated, but that's all corrected now.
@@Sgt.Slides I'm in the process of fabbing up my own set-up like this but I'm using a solid axle. The idea of unsprung weight intrigued me along with, like you, I hate having to climb under my car every time I need to adjust something. I'm going to attempt an anti-roll bar mounted inside as well, use the pushrod end where it attaches to the cantilever as the anti-roll bar end link.
If you dont mind shoot me your email address I'll shoot you some pictures of my progress as I complete my set-up
Man im ur fan, i love ur Mustang and ur build its a inspiriration for my 79GT
Plan on doing the same to my Raptor swapped (yes... it is, the 6.2L barely fits) and IRS equipped 89.
Just one quick thing:
Shocks and Struts are both dampers. A strut is an integral part of the suspension, if you remove it the suspension is undefined and the upright can move however it wants. A shock is NOT integral to the suspension. If the shock is removed the suspension still functions, just without damping. The upright is still controlled by the control arms.
Best way to think of it is this: Remember the front suspension on your fox? That's a strut for your damper. If you remove it, the front suspension doesn't function and the front upright flops around. The strut takes the place of the upper control arm.
Out back, if you look, you'll have Shocks. If you remove them, the upright is still constrained to move how it was designed because the shock only provides damping and isn't integral in keeping the upright from flopping about.
Very few cars have struts out back. Most cars today have struts up front. Corvettes don't, most high end super cars don't, they use Shocks because the front suspension is a double wishbone suspension. I hope that helps!
Great work! You may want to address the body work contact issue long term though. Either that or increase the front stiffness some to regain balance. Ideally, no tire to bodywork contact throughout the range of motion should occur. :) In off to see if you divulged what you used for the push rods so I can hourly find an easy solution! Hoping you divulge your ratio on the rocker too. I calculated mine out to get a 1:1 spring to wheel rate. The rocker is 4":4.7" for the hole spacing since our IRS has a default motion ratio of 0.7.
Thank you for distinguishing a shock vs a strut, I didn't know that, also, long term wise, the tire isn't hitting the fender on big bumps. my rocker arms are 1.25 ratio and I used 550lb springs by mistake, they are just a tad too stiff, i'll eventually swap in some 500's, but for now every thing is fine. I'm pretty sure i gave all of that info on the install vid, check that one out for more grainy details. You got any vids or instagram of your raptor swapped car? i'd love to see that and chat with you about it.
@@Sgt.Slides No problem! :)
I watched through the other video and I didn't see any hard details on the wall thickness or material on the pushrods, but I need to rewatch it again since I was distracted when I was watching it.
I gave the wrong number, my calculated ratio is 1:1.425 (4"x5.75"). With the Cobra IRS's factory motion ratio, and that rocker ratio, it produces a near 1:1 Wheel Compression to Spring Compression ratio (1" of wheel travel = 1" of spring compression). I need to get on the phone with Ridetech and see if the shocks I bought from them, which use the traditional Foxbody rear shock mounting method (I think they call it a bayonet mount? Where you have a rubber washer on the underside and top side of the sheet metal the shock mounts to and it's bolted down from inside), are going to work in an environment with that much angular movement of the shock.
I forget my total spring rates, but I believe I went with 600 out back. My upfront spring rate, I believe, is 550. I will most likely also be changing my rear spring rate when the time comes! :) If Ridetech says the shocks wont be able to deal with that much change in angle during suspension motion (not worried about them not being able to handle being on their side, they are monotubes like your Vikings are), I'll send them back and see if I can't get them revalved while they change the mounting method. Or I'll just get creative with a welder! :D
As for my Fox, I sadly DON'T have an Instagram and my TH-cam channel for my car stuff (this is my video game channel lol), doesn't have any Fox content on it, just my autocrossing my other Mustangs. I DO have a Blog though, which I haven't updated in ages, as well as a Facebook Page for my "racing team" (which is a joke among my autocross friends).
My Blog:
cone502racing.blogspot.com/
Facebook Page:
facebook.com/Cone-502-Racing-818459528199614
The latest post on the blog (November of 2018.... -_-... it's been too long since I updated it), shows the status of the car, mostly. The only changes from that blog to today, is the Maximum Motorsports K-Member, forward offset SN95 arms, and front Ridetech Coilovers up front are installed, they aren't out back yet.
Car as a whole, right now:
Drivetrain:
-Ford 6.2L SOHC V8
-Tremec TR3650
-03 Cobra IRS
-McLeod RST Twin Disc Clutch
-McLeod Aluminum flywheel
-Megasquirt MS3 Pro Ultimate ECU
Suspension:
-Ridetech TQ3 triple adjustable coilovers
-Maximum Motorsports K-Member
-Maximum Motorsports Forward Offset SN95 Arms
-Maximum Motorsports K-Member drop (quarter inch, I think?)
Misc:
-Ron Francis Wiring replacement wiring kit (this car had some electrical issues when I bought it, decided to start over)
Planned Updates:
-Torsen T2R, unknown on gearing, probably 4.10's or 3.73's
-Maximum Motorsports front swaybar (hopefully it fits with the 6.2L up front)
-Unknown if I'll run a rear swaybar
-Aeromotive Complete Fuel System
-FTBR Cobra IRS bushing kit
-FTBR Cobra IRS brace
I've got a LONG way to go. I just recently sat down, after a year of not working on the car (had a job change which involved moving an hour and a half away, buying a new house, and remodeling said house, so not much free time) and designed up the motor mount sketches and sent them off to have parts laser cut so I can at least START to get the motor in permanently.
The nice part about the 6.2L is it uses enough parts from other Ford Modular V8's (Cam and crank sensors are the same as a Coyote's, so that helps with tuning! :)). The downside is there is nothing to just "swap" this motor into the car. No prebuilt exhausts, coyote exhaust headers aren't even CLOSE, and I'm 99.99% sure I'll have to run manual brakes and custom modify THOSE to get them around the heads. And the motor mounts... they aren't the same spacing as a Ford Modular V8 motor mounts... the bolt holes are just far enough apart to where you can only get two bolts in on the mount and the third is about an inch shy of mounting up to the third bolt hole... hence the custom motor mounts.
But, when it's all said and done, it should be a great project and a head turner! I only know of ONE other Fox with a 6.2L in it, it was the Calypso green one on SVT Performance years ago. He went carbbed, I'm staying EFI. He was a drag car so cut a bunch of stuff out that I have to keep for rigidity. I plan on running big wide tires at all four corners (305 at a minimum, 335 is the goal), he had big and littles. He gutted his car, mine wont be gutted (although it is now =O).
I need to update both of my pages with new details though. Hoping to get back to working on the car so I can get it running again!
@@Whiskey11Gaming yeah, i have no idea about wall thickness, i literally just walked thru home depot looking for tubing that looked heavy enough, it's just a section of 1 inch pipe, the heavy stuff for like natural gas lines. 600lb springs will probably be fine for you with your lower ratio pivots, also, by rear shocks are the viking kit for an o3 cobra IRS mustang, just without the mounts that go in the shock towers. they are 2 way adjustable so the valving can be whatever i want it.
Bro that suspension looks sick bet handles even better
I think Sr. Gordon Murray said it best; "What a push rod suspension allows your to do is to softly dampen the car". i.e. since the force is no at an angle say 35 degrees, the force on the shock will now be about half; so you now need half the shock.
Love the suspension bruh! Especially the simplicity but trick looks of it.
I can see this being like the headlights mod everyone is gonna want to do it. You are very creative though I really like how you got your car set up
I like to be unique, but i also like to bring new ideas to the community. Tired of seeing the same old 13 second foxes on drag slicks with 4.10's
@@Sgt.Slides I heard that lol that's why I put a v6 in my foxbody and plan on turbo it in the future
They do work fine from the factory but now it looks cool and that is better.
You justified the work at 8:45 👍
Looks good!
Nice car. Great explanation.
U should throw some turbos back there for the hell of it, who needs trunk space!
very tempting, but i actually do need the space to transport tires. Otherwise i would have already cut out the floor and done a rear mount radiator.
@@Sgt.Slides buy a roof rack for transporting tires. slap the turbos and radiator in and shoot for 8-900 hp... just a thought 🤷🏾♂️
hey, man is that stuff made in house? I'm wondering bc I have a 93 fox and would like to do the same thing brother.
You should paint it all red and the springs black. Dope setup!!!
Can you please make a trip to hoonigan
I wish, if someone would transport my car to Cali
Just in time! I needed some entertainment!!
It also looks bad ass. I'm sure he mentioned that. But yeah, they're fucking beautiful.
Very nice project , can you tell me what are those shock from or for?
Nice job on that set up young man👍
Great video bud, however, if you have a spring in the back of a solid axle vehicle bearing the load the "strut" you mention is just a shock/dampener. A strut is an integral component to your vehicle, as in supporting the weight of the vehicle. Or, it is a shock with a spring.
In the case of a solid axle mustang you will have coil springs and shocks/dampeners for controlling the compression and rebound.
Basically, it's a shock, not a strut.
Other than that keep up the good work and I'll be watching for more on your cantilever suspension.
What did you use for the ends of the pushrod? Also, what did you use for the pivot point on the rocker? Awesome work man!!
they're all hiem joints, i dont remember the size or where i ordered them, but it's the same stuff used in the suspension of custom offroad trucks
Dare to be different 💪.
What's up with the production of the turn signal intakes?
I want a cantilever rear suspension on my S197 Mustang!
Almost finished with mine, I am curious what to expect as far as NVH
bro, where did you found that kit? I need one
How much more noisier is it inside the car
Is the front suspension stiffer too?
Love the videos man, keep up the good work!
I’m trying to pick me up a 91 5.0 fox body to build it for drifting. I was wondering what you did to get more turning angle
look thru my videos, there's tons of info on my front suspension.
I'll say it again, I love your push rod or rocker arm setup. Please stop calling it a cantilever. I know you aren't the only one who does but it's not correct. A cantilever is not a moving system. It's a support system. You have never once heard an engine builder say" I've just put roller cantilevers in my heads." Because rocker arms are not cantilevers. Check out the definition of cantilever.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cantilever
Dude he's referring to his suspension setup lol
Audience, Stu one question. Do you have to maintain alignment now, or will it cause any alignment issues with this new setup? Great presentation...
It's at the same ride height as before, so alignment is not affected.
@@Sgt.Slides perfect
what would you think about s15 coilovers on a straight axle sn?
Great job. I was curious - how did u determine the dimensions / geometry of the bell cranks and the length of the pushrods? Also how do you select the coil over for your application? Was the length/travel important? I know that the bell crank can be like a rocker arm on a cylinder head which can have a ratio. Thanks in advance. The reason why I ask is if the vehicle used does not have a specific "kit".
Nevermind lol. Thought about it carefully and I answered my own question. Great work man.
@@dave99887 Luckily, half of the R&D was done for me by my friend Ivan who originated the design on his car. he provided me the parts and the rest was up to me to figure out based on photos. The coil overs were already designed for the cobra IRS, however, they were re purposed and used as you see here. The push rod length was a little tricky to figure out, Using measurements from photos, I determined how much the shocks would compress under the weight of the car, I jacked the car up to my expected ride height with the wheels touching the ground, and I tacked everything into place where I thought it should go. Kind of nerve-wracking because i couldn't test it under load until everything was fully welded up, which means if i got it wrong, i'd have to do a whole lot of cutting and re welding, luckily i had a lot of adjustability built into my design and i could easily dial it right where I needed it to be once it was all together.
@@Sgt.Slides Bro you installed a falling-rate suspension--meaning the spring rate (and dampening) reduces exponentially as coilover compresses. This is the opposite of a well-handled design.
Very nice setup😃😃😄😁
are this setup will noise inside when riding ?
at low speeds you can hear it squeak, but the whole car is pretty noisy anyway, it doesn't make a difference.
How much noisier is the setup inside the car?
it squeaks a bit on low speed bumps, but this car is noisy anyway.
👍👍🚗
This is interesting.
where can I get those fender flares?
Jdmfenderflares
Premium Fuel Mag appreciate you bro. I found them on amazon. Appreciate you! Dope car!
S T A N G 👍
What size tube did you use for the vertical compression rods?
it's a 1 inch steel tube
Premium Fuel Mag thanks, what length Viking coilovers did you use?
I dont remember, but they are the ones meant for a 2003 cobra Mustang
How much was the set up and as well how much did your hood cost for your fox I’m restoring my foxbody as well 87 hatch
my hood is stock, I installed the vents myself. The coil overs cost about $450, and used maybe $50 worth of metal and materials.
Premium Fuel Mag I the stance to it and suspension support might switch to same similar setup 👍🏾 do you have a tutorial video of you doing the hood ?
@@ghostdog217 Here ya go th-cam.com/video/uNddb9zWMh0/w-d-xo.html
Premium Fuel Mag thanks if you have any left over parts or interior parts available let me know I will purchase if possible
@@ghostdog217 i have my full dash and HVAC, i also have the cargo cover.
Those coilovers are pretty. They look like ohlins
Such a shame you put a LS into a fox body.. fyi I just walked and 2014 scat pack charger from 55-120 stock block 302 heads, cam, intake, roller rockers, Bigger throttle body, mass air Conversion, bassani down pipes and x pipes, 86 Saleen clone. My engine runs on the strong side but I have more then enough power to give any modern car sh!t stains after they test me.. I will give you cool points for doing your own thing but as far as TH-cam is concerned you cut off a large number of new subscribers going the LS route. I'm still subed but I stopped watching your content the big engine reveal video.. I almost puked in my mouth smh... I would have been happier if you did put an AMG motor or even an,,,,, , , and I can't believe I'm saying this,,,, an Dodge hemi 5.7 ,6.1 ,or 6.4
I never built this car or this channel for attention or subscribers. I built it to share my build, and things i learned that you don't see anywhere else and make a log to look back on. very few vids on this channel are LS specific, and if that's enough to scare off any ford boi purists, they're going to miss out on some neat stuff. Their loss, not mine, and beating a 392 charger with simple bolt ons in a 302 is highly doubtful. My 302 was pretty high strung, i had every bolt on without power adders, but the only way i'd beat a 392 car is with a horrible driver behind the wheel.