Best 3D printer for Fishing Lures 2021 - Don't Buy This Printer!

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2021
  • You will find tons of 3D printer videos using FDM printers, here is why you should not buy one to make fishing lures in 2021 and beyond...
    SLA Resin 3D printers I recommend (affiliate links, I will make a small commission if you purchase using these links):
    Budget options (smaller print size, great resolution) Affiliate Links
    Creality LD-002H - amzn.to/2UA0YJe Now $219!
    Best Mid Size Printers
    Budget Option Elegoo Saturn - amzn.to/3A4yqYD Only buy at the MSRP of $499!!
    Best Printer I currently Own - Epax E10 - Amazon Link - amzn.to/3y3IJKR
    Get 5% off an Epax E10 with discount code GULFSTREAMOUT5 -gulfstreamoutdoors.com/epax (affiliate link)
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ความคิดเห็น • 23

  • @homesteadingbarndo
    @homesteadingbarndo 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I already have a FDM printer because I like printing guns so I'm going to start using it but definitely upgrade to a resin printer after I get addicted to making lures. I've been able to tune my printer to create some sweet buttery prints but the resolution looks way better. The PLA + filament I use for my lower receivers is pretty strong and good for heat deflection (I run my ar 15 setup on my PLA plus)

    • @WMBayouLures
      @WMBayouLures  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Sweet man, you can totally get started with PLA+ for lures and molds, but the print times (and resolution) for molds especially is pretty limiting. Not too mention even PLA+ will start to deform with plastisol. The heat is a bit different (constant and immediate) vs a firearm (immediate but quickly dissipates)

  • @travisjohnston1923
    @travisjohnston1923 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Maybe update this information? Materials like nylon with a good heat deflection or using a material similar to chinchilla for directly printing lures on fdm. Nylon is fairly easy to print as far as technical polymers go, and chinchilla requires a direct drive extruder, but beyond that i bet most could get exactly what they want from those

    • @WMBayouLures
      @WMBayouLures  หลายเดือนก่อน

      Will be updating soon but sadly nothing has really changed.

  • @slacktide_angler
    @slacktide_angler ปีที่แล้ว

    Been on the fence about which type to get for printing tackle. I mainly want to print baitheads and swimbaits. Would you say the resins out there are strong enough for say crankbait bills with a wire-through design? And cost wise for consumables like resin, etc how expensive is it to create a small run of lures? Thanks for this video. I’m coming closer to choosing a resin printer because of it.

    • @WMBayouLures
      @WMBayouLures  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      No problem. I have not done a deep dive test of strength but Siraya Tech Blu Clear has held up really well, for both lips and bodies. If you don't need clear then Siraya Tech Blu Nylon Black is really tough and can stand up to a pretty good beating... You can check out my video on designing lips here - th-cam.com/video/6lGIEsZmaxM/w-d-xo.html
      As far as cost that is tough to say, it totally depends on your design and size. Most of mine are between 20 and 50 cents per bait in resin cost.

    • @slacktide_angler
      @slacktide_angler ปีที่แล้ว

      @@WMBayouLures I’ll note those two resins. Thanks for the info!

  • @1V2N1V2
    @1V2N1V2 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Your content is amazing! I am prototyping a hardbait made out of two halves with details like a rattle chamber inside, does it make sense to get the two crankbait halves out of a SLA printer and glue them together? Or melt them together with acetone?
    I really want to get into it now, super cool how cheap these printers got and how much content there is now!

    • @WMBayouLures
      @WMBayouLures  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yeah you can totally do 2 halves and glue them together. You can use epoxy resin, super glue, or even the 3D printer resin itself to glue the half's together, no need to melt with acetone. I prefer the single part design because it takes less time but of course has its limitations. I will be doing some 2 part baits coming up.

    • @1V2N1V2
      @1V2N1V2 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@WMBayouLures Cool, thats exactly what I was looking for. Prototypes in Polystyrene are crazy expensive and messing around with pouring resin is not what I am looking so this sounds like the best way for me!

    • @WMBayouLures
      @WMBayouLures  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@1V2N1V2 if you need any help along the way feel free to reach out!

    • @1V2N1V2
      @1V2N1V2 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@WMBayouLures I definitely will, thanks a million!

  • @AKC357
    @AKC357 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good Day Sir❗️
    Thanks For The Education❤️❗️
    One Question:
    Which 3D Printer Would You Recommend For InDustrial Or HighOut Of Plastic And Hard Baits?
    I Have Some Ideas I’d Like To Put On The Market.

    • @WMBayouLures
      @WMBayouLures  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      If you want high output you are going to to go as big as possible or multiple printers. Multiple printers will be a bit cheaper to start and give some flexibility if one printer has an issue. You could go large like an Elegoo Jupiter, Phenom XL etc.

    • @AKC357
      @AKC357 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@WMBayouLures Thanks Man👍🏾🎣❗️

    • @WMBayouLures
      @WMBayouLures  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AKC357 I just started down the hard lure path about a month ago. You can see the results in my wake bait video released a few weeks ago

  • @GBFishhhs
    @GBFishhhs 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    What resin should I use ?

    • @WMBayouLures
      @WMBayouLures  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Siraya Tech Sculpt- th-cam.com/video/ndYmHhDkA1Y/w-d-xo.html

  • @jeaf7
    @jeaf7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I Agree and disagree. Fold molds I agree. For hard lures like crankbaits FDM works much better than Resin. I built custom crankbaits. I have both a FDM and Resin printers. I've run 3 years of prototyping on both printers. Resins are not strong enough. The FDM PLA works extremely good for hard baits. You have to think once you paint the lures and apply clear coats. It's literally unbreakable. I've never had one break yet. The Resin are way to fragile. No offense but I personally think you should try testing before putting out statements based on opinions.

    • @WMBayouLures
      @WMBayouLures  ปีที่แล้ว

      Been testing and prototyping for about the same as you but with different results. I will have some testing videos coming up so we can all get a reasonable answer.

    • @alucardhellsing1037
      @alucardhellsing1037 ปีที่แล้ว

      CNC machined moulds are the best.

    • @WMBayouLures
      @WMBayouLures  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@alucardhellsing1037 of course, but they are also out of reach for many designers and can not be the most cost efficient way to go about prototyping a lure.

    • @davidscbirdsall
      @davidscbirdsall 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Are you printing hollow lures, or are your printing solid lures?