There's definitely ways to get shiny surfaces out of the 3D molds. I've watched tons of videos on molds for resin or carbon fiber which have the same issue and I believe there's way to treat the 3D molds or spray them beforehand to get an equal outcome. It may always add an extra step to the process but a few extra seconds is worth that extra money.
The Aluminium molds are polished, Simple. you can get diferent SLA resins with diferanr finishes and charecteristics. You can then finnish the print by surface by; 1. Polishing, use a dremel with brush or buff pad or an electric toothbrush, use toothpaste or car polish as the cut compound. 2. you can spray paint the mold 3. with some resins you can use an oxy acetaline or map gas torch to flame feather the mold surface to smooth it. you have to be quick dont hold/pause the flame on the surface, it snap melts the surface forming a smooth polished finnish, youtube polishing acrylic ends with oxy acetaline. Print your molds flat, they will print faster. print them thiner and glue the backs of the mold to a piece of wood for strength. Cheers
Thanks Ned! You can check out my follow-up video for how I get smooth finishes without a lot of extra work here - th-cam.com/video/qi76bNucjDc/w-d-xo.html I get mixed results printing flat to the build plate and it often results in failed prints or difficult to remove prints plus most of the molds I print cant fit both halves on the build plate if printed flat. You are correct in that it is the fasted way to print them though and when I have small test molds I print them that way.
I´m work in a CNC shop. The high proce comes from getting just a singel mold. the problem is, someone has to plan the job how to hold the pice in the maschine what kind of tool you can use to get the perfekt product and the end of the day. Also someoone has to code the program and optimize it. The tools are used most likly are Carbide wich is expensive i would say to make this mold u need 1 drill 1 tap 1 face mill 1 roughmill 1 ball endmill maybe a chmpfer endmill just those tool are easly around 200-300$ then u need a operator for the mill who setup the maschine and for the power you goot to pay as well so if you take all this to account its not that expensiv anymore and if you make like 100 of the molds the price could sink to down around 50$
Yes excellent point! I know that if I ordered like 10 from protolabs they got down to around $180 each. Still 9x the cost of resin and I have to shell out $1,800 in one shot but you are correct much less expensive than a 1 off.
Hey! Just discovered your channel. Trying to learn all I can about resin molding and I appreciate your contributions!! Can I ask where you got that giant syringe to shoot the plastic from? Cheers
So glad I found this great info. We have a small fishing biz and started getting into soft plastics and jigs and ...WOW it adds up fast . This looks like a much better option than just copying other people with Do it Molds or paying thousands to get what you want. Can you do jigs this way as well ?? Thanks again Sean
Hey Sean, yeah I think it is a tough road if you are making what everyone else is making! There is not a resin that I am aware of that can handle the heat of molten lead. The highest I have seen is 160c or about 420F. What I have seen others do is to design and print the master then use silicone to create the lead mold, high temp silicone of course. They also make a castable resin that works like lost wax casting but I have never seen anyone use it for jigs just jewelry.
Thanks for that! That is a good technique as well. I personally don't think shine matters at all but many people do. I have perfected a technique to make the resin printed molds produce shine equal to CNC with very little effort, the video is here - th-cam.com/video/qi76bNucjDc/w-d-xo.html
Did you consider the cost of the 3d printer, And software? How do you duplicate the original lure to make the 3D print mold? How difficult is learning the 3d software,?
You need to buy and learn software if you want to design lures in either case. The cost of a 3D printer to produce this mold is roughly $350, the cost of the CNC machine to produce the aluminum mold is at least $8,000 most likely north of $40,000. Give all that material cost is the common denominator, which is what I used.
For a few $ more you could have purchased a CNC machine and I believe you would be able to master it in no time you already have the G-code all you need (in Fusion 360) is the select the tool and your away
A few dollars more than a 3D printer? Not really. 3D printer that can print molds is under $500, a CNC that can produce injectable 6061 molds would be roughly $5-$10k for a used Tormach. The desktop router machines typically dont have the accuracy needed for things like vents, at least all the models I have tried to make work.
I think injection wise I would rather have a custom resin mold made but if I was doing a custom open pour with skin pouring and stuff I'd rather have an aluminum.
I am a machinist and I cant make a mold like that since I don't know 5 axis or 3d surfacing but that mold should not cost that much seeing the size and understanding how long it would take someone to make that
This mold should not need a 5 axis setup, I can cut it on my 3 axis machine. Would love to talk to you if you will cut them cheaper, I have some business I could send your way. Feel free to email me bill@wmbayou.com
Randy Blaukat (Intuitive Angling) has been a professional bass fisherman for 40+ years and the first thing he does with most of his plastic baits is rough them up with his hands so as to take away the shine, He believes "shiny" is meant to catch fishermen, but he is convinced a rough surface catches more fish. (Roughing a bait also releases the salt if it contains it, and softens the plastic which makes for easier and better hooksets). He even roughs up some of his crankbaits by lightly sanding with a fine grit sandpaper to get rid of the shine. This professional has made his living catching bass for 4 decades - I would not be too concerned about a plastic bait being less "shiny".
Yeah I love Randy's videos! I have a few designs I am working on based on watching him hack on baits with scissors! I am not concerned about shiney but you would be surprised how many bait makers look at it as a sign of a quality bait...
Wondering what kind of makeup you using?😂Good comparison! Heat gun might help but need to be careful. Saw you are messing with CNC now. Are you switching to aluminum molds?
The addition of aluminum molds is all about production for the new lure company. It is difficult to produce large volumes of lures in an efficient manner with 3D printed molds. Of course video out soon! 🤣🤣😆😆😆
Ohhh non les évents d'air... Je vais aussi bientôt passer en CNC sur mes leurres. L'avantage c'est que le moule est parfait, malheureusement très cher mais ensuite on reprend l'empreinte en Silicone RTV Shore 60 au micron près. On peut faire de l'injection avec ce silicone. Pour moins de 40 dollars on fait 1 ou 2 moules identiques et durable. Quand on a pas les moyens c'est bien... Résistance à 600 Fahrenheit. J'ai reçu ma Elegoo Saturn, pas facile à gérer la déformation de la résine... Je joue avec la géométrie pour éviter la déformation de mes contre-moules... Ensuite ponçage au grain 1000 très rapide, 3000 et dentifrice, finition vraiment brillante. Le plus compliqué pour moi et d'éviter la déformation, beaucoup d'échec et de tests... Finalement j'arrive à vos conclusions sur le sens d'impression 3D. Chanfrein et pièce debout ou sur le coté et jupe assez grande pour éviter le décollement. j'ai de la résine Anycubic standard, pas terrible... J'ai reçu de la Siraya tech (pas encore testé) j'espère qu'elle est meilleure.
Yes Siraya Tech resin is what you want to use for molds and it is pretty accurate. You need to make sure you dial in your exposure times for the best accuracy. For tips oin modeling and printing molds check out this video - th-cam.com/video/h3euVx1zwZI/w-d-xo.html
@@WMBayouLures Merci pour votre réponse ! Je fais déjà mes leurres sur Fusion 360 et j'ai pris pleins de fish ;) Au niveau des réglages pour du 0,05mm avec la Elegoo Saturn, quels sont vos paramètres ? Pourrais-je avoir une capture ? En vous remerciant :)
We care more than the fish do! :-) I always start witht he settings from Siraya Tech and go from there, they will usually need to be changed a little for your specific machine. - docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1x7C0EGoT6PBUJXf3Mk_FFLEfXUAP9Z9SOTX19fMH15A/edit#gid=0
@@WMBayouLures Finally since that time I have tried 2 CNC machinists. I found a site like you but it was around €700 or €800 per mold for 4 80mm prints, or around 3.1 inches in length. A French machinist on his own cost me €360 for 4 impressions of the same size. In Ukraine I found it for 162€ and with 10 prints and on top of that you just have to give the STL lure file and he makes the mold from A to Z with the air vents etc... I paid 46€ delivery costs and around 15€ customs, a total of around 215/220€. This price without even making a mold is perfect for beginners. In France, just to request the creation of a 3D drawing is expensive.
There's definitely ways to get shiny surfaces out of the 3D molds. I've watched tons of videos on molds for resin or carbon fiber which have the same issue and I believe there's way to treat the 3D molds or spray them beforehand to get an equal outcome. It may always add an extra step to the process but a few extra seconds is worth that extra money.
Yep I figured it out in this video - Quest For Shiny Lures - Part 2 Flawless Victory!
th-cam.com/video/qi76bNucjDc/w-d-xo.html
The Aluminium molds are polished, Simple.
you can get diferent SLA resins with diferanr finishes and charecteristics.
You can then finnish the print by surface by;
1. Polishing, use a dremel with brush or buff pad or an electric toothbrush, use toothpaste or car polish as the cut compound.
2. you can spray paint the mold
3. with some resins you can use an oxy acetaline or map gas torch to flame feather the mold surface to smooth it.
you have to be quick dont hold/pause the flame on the surface, it snap melts the surface forming a smooth polished finnish, youtube polishing acrylic ends with oxy acetaline.
Print your molds flat, they will print faster.
print them thiner and glue the backs of the mold to a piece of wood for strength.
Cheers
Thanks Ned! You can check out my follow-up video for how I get smooth finishes without a lot of extra work here - th-cam.com/video/qi76bNucjDc/w-d-xo.html
I get mixed results printing flat to the build plate and it often results in failed prints or difficult to remove prints plus most of the molds I print cant fit both halves on the build plate if printed flat. You are correct in that it is the fasted way to print them though and when I have small test molds I print them that way.
Paint on a thin layer of resin in the 3d printed moulds and cure with a uv light to ease the resolution
I prefer this method to painting
Quest For Shiny Lures - Part 2 Flawless Victory!
th-cam.com/video/qi76bNucjDc/w-d-xo.html
Math checks out. Resin FTW. Have you considered ceramic resin to make spoons? It loses some size when it's cintered but might work.
Been pondering spoons for a while will have to check out some ceramics, good idea!
Still watching the video, but I gave a thumbs up and comment to push the algorithm. Good luck!
I appreciate that
Ned head is the cnc has a slight bit more sheen to it!
Correct!
I´m work in a CNC shop. The high proce comes from getting just a singel mold. the problem is, someone has to plan the job how to hold the pice in the maschine what kind of tool you can use to get the perfekt product and the end of the day. Also someoone has to code the program and optimize it. The tools are used most likly are Carbide wich is expensive i would say to make this mold u need 1 drill 1 tap 1 face mill 1 roughmill 1 ball endmill maybe a chmpfer endmill just those tool are easly around 200-300$ then u need a operator for the mill who setup the maschine and for the power you goot to pay as well so if you take all this to account its not that expensiv anymore and if you make like 100 of the molds the price could sink to down around 50$
Yes excellent point! I know that if I ordered like 10 from protolabs they got down to around $180 each. Still 9x the cost of resin and I have to shell out $1,800 in one shot but you are correct much less expensive than a 1 off.
Hey! Just discovered your channel. Trying to learn all I can about resin molding and I appreciate your contributions!! Can I ask where you got that giant syringe to shoot the plastic from? Cheers
They are called hand injectors, bait plastics has some good ones baitplastics.com/product/injector-3/
@@WMBayouLures thank you so much for getting back to me!! Absolute legend
So glad I found this great info. We have a small fishing biz and started getting into soft plastics and jigs and ...WOW it adds up fast . This looks like a much better option than just copying other people with Do it Molds or paying thousands to get what you want. Can you do jigs this way as well ?? Thanks again Sean
Hey Sean, yeah I think it is a tough road if you are making what everyone else is making! There is not a resin that I am aware of that can handle the heat of molten lead. The highest I have seen is 160c or about 420F. What I have seen others do is to design and print the master then use silicone to create the lead mold, high temp silicone of course. They also make a castable resin that works like lost wax casting but I have never seen anyone use it for jigs just jewelry.
@@WMBayouLures thanks so much for responding so quickly .. I want a shrimp mold will this work for injection??
@@teamfishlineswfl9099 100% send me an email at bill@gulfstreamoutdoors.com if you need some help
@@WMBayouLures sending email
If you are worried about shinning you only have to apply hot with a heatgun and see lures shine... then let it cool down and you are ready
Thanks for that! That is a good technique as well. I personally don't think shine matters at all but many people do. I have perfected a technique to make the resin printed molds produce shine equal to CNC with very little effort, the video is here - th-cam.com/video/qi76bNucjDc/w-d-xo.html
@@WMBayouLures not familiar with risen prints but there are ways to smooth filament prints with acetone or alcohol
Hey man love the video, I was hoping you could possibly 3d print a 10 cavity mold for me? And if you can how much would you charge ?
Shoot me an email - bill@gulfstreamoutdoors.com
Did you consider the cost of the 3d printer, And software?
How do you duplicate the original lure to make the 3D print mold?
How difficult is learning the 3d software,?
You need to buy and learn software if you want to design lures in either case. The cost of a 3D printer to produce this mold is roughly $350, the cost of the CNC machine to produce the aluminum mold is at least $8,000 most likely north of $40,000. Give all that material cost is the common denominator, which is what I used.
For a few $ more you could have purchased a CNC machine and I believe you would be able to master it in no time you already have the G-code all you need (in Fusion 360) is the select the tool and your away
A few dollars more than a 3D printer? Not really. 3D printer that can print molds is under $500, a CNC that can produce injectable 6061 molds would be roughly $5-$10k for a used Tormach. The desktop router machines typically dont have the accuracy needed for things like vents, at least all the models I have tried to make work.
Hello togehter, have you ever tried to paint the resin mold with epoxy paint? maybe it would also have a shiny rubber fish.
Yes I tried that and it kind worked, I eventually found a much better, perfect solution - th-cam.com/video/qi76bNucjDc/w-d-xo.html
I think injection wise I would rather have a custom resin mold made but if I was doing a custom open pour with skin pouring and stuff I'd rather have an aluminum.
Yeah that probably makes sense. I am terrible at skin pours myself 😆
Damn that's awesome. ! Do you do any commissions with your resin molds if someone had a master for you to go off of?
Thanks man! You will want to contact Philip@3dtechinnovations.com for any commision work, he is amazing!
You could try a heat gun on a test piece to melt the surface slightly.
Thanks! This is the technique I ended up going with
Quest For Shiny Lures - Part 2 Flawless Victory!
th-cam.com/video/qi76bNucjDc/w-d-xo.html
Just to ask You about what software did You use to design the molds?
Fusion360 and now a tiny bit of Rhino3D
I am a machinist and I cant make a mold like that since I don't know 5 axis or 3d surfacing but that mold should not cost that much seeing the size and understanding how long it would take someone to make that
This mold should not need a 5 axis setup, I can cut it on my 3 axis machine. Would love to talk to you if you will cut them cheaper, I have some business I could send your way. Feel free to email me bill@wmbayou.com
I wonder how the resin molds would hold up for polyurethane resin lures
I am guessing pretty well as long as you had some decent mold release. If you have a particular poly in mind I am happy to test it out!
@@WMBayouLures I use the smooth on feather lite casting resin mate. I would be extremely greatfull if you could test it out, Thanks heaps
Randy Blaukat (Intuitive Angling) has been a professional bass fisherman for 40+ years and the first thing he does with most of his plastic baits is rough them up with his hands so as to take away the shine, He believes "shiny" is meant to catch fishermen, but he is convinced a rough surface catches more fish. (Roughing a bait also releases the salt if it contains it, and softens the plastic which makes for easier and better hooksets). He even roughs up some of his crankbaits by lightly sanding with a fine grit sandpaper to get rid of the shine. This professional has made his living catching bass for 4 decades - I would not be too concerned about a plastic bait being less "shiny".
Yeah I love Randy's videos! I have a few designs I am working on based on watching him hack on baits with scissors! I am not concerned about shiney but you would be surprised how many bait makers look at it as a sign of a quality bait...
Wondering what kind of makeup you using?😂Good comparison! Heat gun might help but need to be careful. Saw you are messing with CNC now. Are you switching to aluminum molds?
The addition of aluminum molds is all about production for the new lure company. It is difficult to produce large volumes of lures in an efficient manner with 3D printed molds. Of course video out soon! 🤣🤣😆😆😆
Dip the bait in clear plastisol, you will get shiny bait
yep that is a good way to do it, would get a bit rough if you had a lot of baits.
Watched in .25 speed ned head had slight lines in the light so imma guess ned head was 20$ mold n 700$ was cnc couldnt tell in real speed tho
Thanks man! I have perfected the process in this video, now they are equal to CNC finish - th-cam.com/video/qi76bNucjDc/w-d-xo.html
How different do they look under water?
I will try to show in a different video but to the human eye at least they all look the same under water.
@WMBayouLures Wonder if it's different to them? I mean this sincerely. I'm not trying to be ugly.
@@SkeletorJenkins great question! I know some people like them dull and some people rough up there lures. Might try to setup a few test
Top
Ohhh non les évents d'air...
Je vais aussi bientôt passer en CNC sur mes leurres. L'avantage c'est que le moule est parfait, malheureusement très cher mais ensuite on reprend l'empreinte en Silicone RTV Shore 60 au micron près. On peut faire de l'injection avec ce silicone. Pour moins de 40 dollars on fait 1 ou 2 moules identiques et durable. Quand on a pas les moyens c'est bien... Résistance à 600 Fahrenheit. J'ai reçu ma Elegoo Saturn, pas facile à gérer la déformation de la résine... Je joue avec la géométrie pour éviter la déformation de mes contre-moules... Ensuite ponçage au grain 1000 très rapide, 3000 et dentifrice, finition vraiment brillante. Le plus compliqué pour moi et d'éviter la déformation, beaucoup d'échec et de tests... Finalement j'arrive à vos conclusions sur le sens d'impression 3D. Chanfrein et pièce debout ou sur le coté et jupe assez grande pour éviter le décollement. j'ai de la résine Anycubic standard, pas terrible... J'ai reçu de la Siraya tech (pas encore testé) j'espère qu'elle est meilleure.
Yes Siraya Tech resin is what you want to use for molds and it is pretty accurate. You need to make sure you dial in your exposure times for the best accuracy. For tips oin modeling and printing molds check out this video - th-cam.com/video/h3euVx1zwZI/w-d-xo.html
@@WMBayouLures
Merci pour votre réponse !
Je fais déjà mes leurres sur Fusion 360 et j'ai pris pleins de fish ;)
Au niveau des réglages pour du 0,05mm avec la Elegoo Saturn, quels sont vos paramètres ? Pourrais-je avoir une capture ?
En vous remerciant :)
We care more than the fish do! :-)
I always start witht he settings from Siraya Tech and go from there, they will usually need to be changed a little for your specific machine. - docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1x7C0EGoT6PBUJXf3Mk_FFLEfXUAP9Z9SOTX19fMH15A/edit#gid=0
@@WMBayouLures Ha haaa c'est bien vrai 🤣
Thanks !
@@WMBayouLures
Finally since that time I have tried 2 CNC machinists. I found a site like you but it was around €700 or €800 per mold for 4 80mm prints, or around 3.1 inches in length. A French machinist on his own cost me €360 for 4 impressions of the same size. In Ukraine I found it for 162€ and with 10 prints and on top of that you just have to give the STL lure file and he makes the mold from A to Z with the air vents etc... I paid 46€ delivery costs and around 15€ customs, a total of around 215/220€. This price without even making a mold is perfect for beginners. In France, just to request the creation of a 3D drawing is expensive.
Jig was 3D
Correct!
aluminium molds are not 700 more like 150 to 200
Custom molds are 1000-1500. Yes you can buy someone else’s design for 150-200 but not your design
Top is cnc
blaaaaablabla tfooo