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How to Build a Chevy 383 Stroker: Part 2 - How to Install Pistons
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 เม.ย. 2013
- Part 2 of "How to build a small block Chevy." It could be a 283, 327, 350, 383 or 400 engine. This segment shows how to install rings, bearings and how to use a torque wrench for the newbies. Again, hard to film with an iPhone while you are doing the work but hope this helps.
Shannon www.corvettesan...
Looks like I'm going to sit here and learn how to build a 383 at 1:30am.
Awesome videos, though. I wish I had the knowledge of people like you. Although this is the most thorough engine building video I've come across so far, I'm sure there's 10 things/tips you don't mention for every 1 you do mention because it's so obvious/second nature to you.
Thank you very much. Yep there are lots of things that I don't talk about or it would be a 12 hour video! D'oh! Many things are (or SHOULD be) done by the machine shop before you get all your parts back. This is a crap "motor" from Craigslist but I did want to shoot some stuff that I have picked up over 20 plus years of working on race cars and hot rods. People can argue about anything i.e. "microns of aluminum oxide in the scotchbrite pads" or "don't use an impact on main bolts" but they have not ACTUALLY built engines for 20 years to know what IS a problem and what is NOT a problem. Thank you for watching and glad you learned some stuff. I have some new better produced shows coming I hope you like as well.
ive learned more from you in part one of this vieo than watching tv shows for 15 years thanks so much for taking the time to make these videos
I liked your reply to Justin bell and his humble question and appreciation of what u are posting. I'm a 49 year old car fan and good Ol boy from lamer bc canada ( 1o minute drive to Washington state.... I was impressed with your demeanour and strait forward confidence. It was clear to me u are all about experience and practicality. I lol follow u for sure, I'm a great judge of the real deal. I expected to see positive questions and feedback and there were very few know it all's and u handle your replies well ! Thanks for what u do!
Paul Zonneveld Thank you very much Paul. I am very honored and humbled! I almost did not post these videos because they are my first engine videos AND shot on an iPhone LOL. I am a professional film maker as well so filming myself with a phone was not my first choice. You can see more cool videos on my film website www.snowproductions.net
I was born in Seattle so I tell people I am not totally ruined by So. Cal. Ha!
Take a look at the "James Dean's Last Drive" video. I am organizing a cruise in Sept. that follows James Dean's last drive from Hollywood to Salinas. We should have a big turnout if all goes well. Take a look at the website www.jamesdeanslastdrive.com
Thanks again for the support and encouragement!
Shan
Awesome video series! I just hope that when you are using the scratchbrite that you are doing it on both the main cap bearing, and also the bearing in the block. Don't want any out of round. Just a friendly thought. Thanks!
LOL. Yeah. My room mate picked out the tile for the garage! My new place has a properly painted floor with a Rust Oleum epoxy and sprinkled paint chips. Great stuff!
Thanks. Part 3 coming soon! Check out the "dream" build sheet I have on my website. Click the link in the description.
Thank you very much. I have the whole assembly on video broken down to parts so you can find just the piston, cam or head install section. Just have to take the time to cut it together. LOTS of 30 second clips shot with an iPhone and trying to build an engine with one hand! LOL There is a great "wish list" build sheet on my website if you click the link.
Thank you very much. I am glad they help. I have more "professional" videos on my website so it was hard for me to upload "iPhone" videos while building an engine with one hand. LOL. I have more videos I need to upload from replacing intake manifolds to bleeding brakes. Good tips I learned from my old boss and building cars for over 20 years. Amazing the small things you can do to make a difference in your work. Thanks again.
New pistons won't matter but make sure you have them the right direction for the valve reliefs. There is usually a mark on the top of the piston that either marks the "top" of the piston or the "forward" position of the piston. Make sure to stagger the ring gaps. The top ring should have the gap at the top so when the engine sits the gas/oil in the cylinder does not run down through the gap to the second ring.
You do realize that those rings are free to rotate and so they end up where ever they heck they want to be. I've done all this so many times. I'm wondering why this engine had to be taken apart again after it was built the first time. I have the same ring spreader and the same ring compression tool. The ARP torque grease is better for those threads.You should also know that plastic gauge is not accurate when used on rod caps. It will show up as tighter than the clearance really is. You would be better off using a micrometer on those rod caps to figure out the clearance.
+Rod Palm The rings will move but not that much. If they do there is a problem because there is no turning forces at work on them like on lifters. I have seen so many cheap shops where they line up the gaps and the new engine smokes. There are a lot of ways to do things better but this is for weekend builders on a budget that have not spent years building engines. I can't even watch any engine building TV shows because they leave out so many steps and instructions.
LOL It was worth a try. If I could just get Pizza Hut and Mt. Dew (Pepsi) to sponsor one of my shows I wold be stoked!
Ha!
The end is too funny when his eating wing mountain due lol. Holly shit I learned a lot off of watching this video thanks for posting I'm gonna try to build my own LS soon.
Thanks man. I try to make things fun and interesting! LOL Shan
And im just saying you always guide the rod down by hand to avoid it from so much as just barely taping the crank because then its trash
Excellent video... VERY well done!
Thank you very much. I am also a professional film maker and it was hard for me to shoot a video like this with one hand and an iPhone (and a box of junk parts). Just hate watching TV shows that leave so much out when building an engine!
When you installed your oil rings I was always told to not have the gaps on a thrust face of the piston as it can cause scoring of the cylinder wall, and instead to have it about 30 degrees to either the left or right of the center of the piston skirt.
The main thing to remember is that you don't want the ring gaps lined up with each other or above the wrist pins. The rings will move a bit over time so I always start with the top ring gap at 12 oclock so any oil or unburned gas will not leak into the oil pan when not running. The second ring is 180 degrees out and the bottom oil rings are then at the bottom with the gaps separated. This is just a general rule of thumb I learned and always followed.
MystikalDawn same i was taught to offset the compression rings in a diagonal to the wrist pin so you can offset the oil ring pieces 180 degrees from each other
RodRifleandReel
You do not want the top compression ring gap over the wrist pin which cuts out the 3 and 9 oclock position. You do not want the gap at the bottom where unburned gas or oil will settle and leak past the gap so that only leaves the 12 oclock position. it is amazing how many engines I have taken apart with all the ring gaps lined up!
Honestly....after 37 years of machining and building engines,,,,do you really expect the rings to stay put where you aligned the gaps to ???
It's like telling a cat to sit and stay still...LOL
Next time you take your motors apart, let me know if your ring gaps are in the same locations as you last placed them during assembly...
Not knocking you.... i actually like your videos...
I understand what you mean about rings moving. They are not welded or bolted in place but you still need to start them in the best position possible. I have taken apart many engines built at cheap Mexican machine shops and the rings are all completely in line!! Not saying that is impossible but it is like opening your dryer and finding all your clothes neatly folded. I'm glad you like the videos. Keep in mind this was a bucket of junk a client brought me and asked me to assemble for nothing. Check out the second series on "Engine Dress Up" that shows tips on assembling the externals. I'm sure you don't need it but may help your customers after you give them the long block. I also have a new music video on my channel you might like called "Jolene." Thanks!
explain to me why you are using scotch pads on the coated bearing surfaces? Correct me if I am wrong, but those bearing surfaces are usually plated with copper/lead plating for wear resistance, one could suggest that removing the coated surface could be exceptionally bad for bearing life. Unless you are using the aluminum type bearings.
+Bobby D This was a junk motor someone brought me in a box of parts. He told me a bunch of bullshit that was not true about the engine. On top of that he did not want to spend any money. When you deal with a douchebag like that you are not going to get the best results. IF you get a good crank or machine it right and get good bearings you usually don't have to take much if anything off the bearings. If you put the bearings in tight without proper clearance the bearings will wear faster than taking off .0003 of an inch. The crank does not ride on the bearing it rides on the oil.
sitting here having dejavu.. small block V8'S.. cast iron. sigh.. Back in the day I was working on Lycoming aircraft engines while doing these for the boys. Hang on/ ahh/ better now/ had another beer. Now it's all bloody computers and DOHC VVT all alloy crap. More about fucking sensors than engines. I have an Isuzu diesel i'm building here.. nitrided crank, chrome wet liners. DOHC 18 valve HUEI injected.. it ain't no Cummins. Basically - no oversized pistons, rings or bearings available. Throw it away when it's furked. In aircraft we'd rechrome bores and renitirde cranks.. but now you toss em out so a rebuild is more expensive than the whole car. But man I gotta tell ya you're on lucky bastard to still be working on iron
Did someone forget about the hot soapy water and scrubbing brush? Sorry about the rings running up and down over that honing grit!
You're right. I did not cover washing the bare block. Washing the bare block is part of doing the assembly before you get started.
SanDiegoHotRod Thats the only thing we drink at our shop and no offense or anything im 12 and don't want fighting or arguing but NEVER EVER EVER use oil in the cylinders or on the piston, oil can only be compressed to 5 thousandths so its gonna be keeping that oil in the cylinder and the motor will burn oil and the rings wont compress right on the pistons if oil is between them and the piston but WD40 is the best choice look up don't blink mud racing and watch it at mud muckers we built that motor a while back its a alchohol injected nitrous 632 making 1800+hp and we used WD40 on the pistons and rings but he crashed it
You seriously need to check your facts. Buy a couple books on building engines. Are seriously saying DON'T use oil when building an engine? I hope you are kidding.
Would you hone a bore and leave all the abrasive stuff in there for the rings to run on?
You use bearing guard on the bearings BUT the rings will have oil behind them and it will be trying to compress it and mess it up
But you do use oil when you crank it and you use bearing lube for assembly but you don't wantto put the main bolts in dry so you put oil on them
really nice and informative. but i have a question, whats the point of the torque wrench if when you hear it click once,you keep doing it? isnt that just tightening it more than the specification required?
The "click" is the point of specified torque. You can turn it a hundred times to the click but it will only go past the torque if you turn it past the click. Usually 2 or 3 times hearing the click is fine. Remember, when you are tightening more than 1 bolt on something tightening the other bolts on a part will loosen the torque on the first bolt you tighten, like an intake for example.
Awesome videos! Very informative, Thank you.
I hope you'll continue the series.
im building a 383 but im concerned abot my piston to crank clearance i have 60 thou on all but two on up stroke two go down to 40 tho just in one spot should i be concerned
If you have all matching parts (crank, cam, rods, pistons) you should NOT have a problem. As we all know every piston and part are built different and it is a good idea to double check everything. Piston skirts, pin position and crank castings are different depending on the part but I THINK the rule of thumb is .030" clearance for heat expansion, etc. I would check around online to triple check. I am sure you will find different answers. Sorry I could not be more specific.
SanDiegoHotRod thanks for the info i have callies crank and rods je pistons custome ground comp cam but im going to hit it with 300 hp of nitrouse just wanted to check all my bases
A very important part of 383 builds is to grind the rods for clearance of the camshaft lobes... I wish you showed this process...
I see in video @7:41 you have the side of the rods ground down for clearance...
That is a new one on me. I don't even know how a rod would get that close to a camshaft? I have never ground on a rod because I have never had a clearance problem and don't know anyone who has aver ground on a rod. Not only would you weaken the rod integrity but you would destroy $300 worth of balancing the rods and pistons, etc. If the rods hit then you gotta be using the wrong rods or something. The funny thing about building a 383 is that there are thousands of ways to do it. There are so many rod and piston combinations (and cams) you can use that shift the piston, skirt and wrist pin up or down which throws off the angle of the rod. Instead of grinding on a rod then I would suggest changing something so you get the clearance.
If you take a look at your video @ 7:47 and @7:49 and freeze the frame, you will see the side of the rod is ground as well as partially the rod bolt is ground... So someone took care of this ahead of time prior to balancing..
If you use stock sized rods, you will hit the base of the cam lobe when stroked out with 5.7" rods for 383 and need to grind the rod for no less than .100" clearance....
The exception to this would be if you bought "stroker" rods...these rods are designed to have clearance for most SBC cam lobe base size...
The other exception is buy a cam that is specially ground with a lower base lobe size, these are used in stroker motors when you don't want to grind the rods..
Rods are marked and ground during mock assembly... Once the grinding on the block and rods are complete, then you send out the assembly for balancing...
That all makes sense. Like I said there are 1000 ways to assemble a stroker. I am guessing if you had a roller cam and lifters with a shorter lift but wider lobe you might not have a clearance problem but then again it may depend on the rod and piston combo. That's why I let the machine shop do all that for me! LOL
What part of San Diego are you in ??
I am in PB.
Good, informative videos. I was always taught to place the compression ring gaps over the wrist pins, as this would help discourage ring rotation. I am not trying to say you are doing it wrong, I just wanted your opinion on that reasoning. I have heard it in shops and dealerships across the country, but that doesn't mean it is true. What do you think?
Thank you. Think about the position of the piston and ring as it sits in the engine. When the engine sits there will always be traces of oil or unburned gas in the cylinder. Fluid always runs downhill. If the gap for the top ring is at the bottom the oil will flow through the gap to the second ring. I just like to keep the compression gap as far away from bottom as possible, not that it will rotate that far. The pistons are also much thicker and stronger at the top instead of pointing forward where the wrist pin AND the notch marking the front of the piston is. The values, specs and compression/expansion pressure differences are all very minute so I guess you could say it is just an OCD thing for me personally. LOL
Thank you for taking the time to answer. Since I never tested what I was taught about this, I couldn't tell you much about it, either way, although I agree that much of what you are saying makes sense.
By the way, I can certainly relate to the OCD problem. My Dad called it set in my ways. LOL.
I loved this video.... but then end set it off...you gotta remember to eat!
If you're using brand new pistons does it matter which cylinder they go in?
just wondering how long have you been building or rebuilding motors?
Since I was a kid (about 25 years). When I was in high school I had a shop teacher say all the time "It's called an internal combustion engine. "Motors" are electric!" I know the difference but I use both terms. Just like "blower" or "supercharger." I hate turbos. Ha. Take a look at the engines and "build sheet" on my Corvettes and Customs website.
I have a 383 stroker the head gasket is bad could you possibly help me fix it
Are you in San Diego area? Email and phone number are on my website www.corvettesandcustoms.org
Can you use stock pistons? I have a set of flat tops for the stock crank.
Honestly not sure off hand. It all depends on the compression ratio, the rod, where the wrist pin sits in the piston, the size of the cam, etc. The longer throw on the crank not only drops the piston down farther but also pushes it up higher. And there are literally thousands of "stock" pistons so the best thing to do is talk it over with your local machine shop. I am sure they can help you and be more specific about what you have. Thanks.
so if i take my 350 block i get them too machine the clyinders and crank?
Yes. The machine shop will check and grind the crank (unlike the fugly crank in this video) and can line bore the block for the crank and cam and give you the correct bearings.
They will also machine the cylinders and get you the correct pistons and rings for your engine. (Larger bore = larger pistons)
It is always worth the extra $ to have everything balanced as well for performance and life of the engine.
Forgive the stupid question. But for the maincap bolts over the crankshaft, would it be safe to use a highgrade threadlocker 36m in addition to the torque specifications and not oil?
You do NOT want to use loctite or anything else on the main bolts. The oil is for proper torque and the main cap bolts will not work loose. Also, if the loctite runs onto the main bearing you are really screwed. I use loctite on the 3 cam gear bolts, on the outside of the front main seal and on the bolts that hold on the flexplate or flywheel if they don't have the star lock washers.
SanDiegoHotRod: I didn't think so. Thank-you for the clarification.
And when did you balance the rotating assembly???
I did not balance the pistons, rods, crank, balancer and flexplate. I am not a machine shop. The machine shop balances the parts before they hang the rods, etc.
This guy is very helpful. Very interesting!!!!
Thank you. This engine was a POS and all I did was put it together for the customer who was too cheap to buy new parts. LOL The second series on "Engine Dress Up" deals with installing external parts and has some great tips also.
+SanDiegoHotRod I only got to part 2 but best believe I'm going to watch all the videos. This motivates me to tear down my engine and rebuild it. 327 SBC. I still have a lot to learn
Go for it! Tips: Have the machine shop machine and check the block. Do not deck the block. I would not go .060 over. Get the crank, pistons, rods, etc. balanced. Makes a huge difference! Have the machine shop install the cam bearings. If you can spend an extra $500 or so get some ProComp aluminum heads. They are cheap but work great. About $1000 a set but only about $500 more than machining the old heads. You only need a Holley 600 carb (about $300 on Summit). Don't go bigger! Give me a shout if you have any questions. Good luck!
Thank you very much. Very much appreciated.
first time puting pistons. piston number 5 when installing it broke. what could have happened? will i have to get a whole new set of pistons? and how do i know i didnt damaged the other ones.?
Where did it break? Did it break at the top? May have caught the piston ring on the cylinder wall. Need to have the install tool very snug with oil all around the piston and rings. Where did you get the pistons? Did you balance the engine? (pistons, rods, etc). You can get just one piston but make sure it matches and if you had the pistons balanced you need to make sure the new piston is balanced to match. You should have gotten a "balance card" if you had it balanced.
SanDiegoHotRod the Piston chipped towards the second Groove and yes the Pistons were balanced as well as the block and the crankshaft I purchased the Pistons at Summit and the brand is scat when I took off the Piston again to see it the bottom three rings of the piston were bent and out of the Groove
You can call Summit and they may be able to get you one piston. Not sure if you can get rings for just one piston. You will have to have it balanced to match the others. You can also try your local machine shop to see if they have any rings you can use.. You may also need the shop to swap the piston to the other rod depending on how it is mounted. Make sure you have a good install tool. Takes some practice to get it perfect. Everyone has problems sometime.
SanDiegoHotRod Thanks for the reply, very usefull information. also does it matter what engine oil I use to lube the bores, synthetic or non-synthetic.
You should stay away from synthetic oil for the first 2000 miles. After that you can run synthetic with no worries.
Can you tell me what you put the motor on while you were assembling it
Tony Montana It's on an engine stand. They are adjustable for different engines and you can turn the engine over. You can get them with 3 or 4 wheels and some can fold the legs up to save space when you are not using it. You can find at auto parts store, Harbor Freight or order online at Summit racing or Jegs.
SanDiegoHotRod I'm in San Diego. .. I gotta 84 ss monte carlo. .. I'm trynna get a 383 stroker for my chevy.. can you help me or point me in the right direction
Anthony Calhoun Sure Anthony. Give me a shout. My email and phone number are on my website corvettesandcustoms D O T o r g
SanDiegoHotRod Do you usually build motors for ppl?
The machine shop I work with is building a couple engines for me right now a big block 427 for a 67 Vette, a 350 with aluminum heads for a 65 Chevelle and a 283 for a 58 Vette.. I am working on some projects and it is faster to have them do the engines. I have worked with them for over 20 years so I have no problems getting things done. Give me a shout when you can.
What shop? I wanna 383 stroker Victor Jr Edelbrock manifold 750 Holly double pump holly carburetor nd a 350 or 400 transmission
The machine shop can build the long block 383 and I can put the rest of it together, intake, carb, etc. If it is a California car it won't pass smog. I would also use a smaller carb. you can still do the intake and a double pumper but check on the Holley website to figure out what size carb to use. I can also get you the tranny.
Great explained great work
I'm in perris ca
Why would anybody only have 10 hours on a crank assembly and sell the parts?
Clearly something was not right........
+Chad Sageser Exactly! I have changed my SOP away from "the customer is always right."
How much could that cost
Balancing the pistons, rods, crank, flywheel/flexplate, harmonic balancer, etc. runs around $200 - $400 depending on where you are and where you go but makes the engine run much smoother and last longer.
"not familiar with a torque wrench"
Watching a video on building a SBC 383. If you don't know what a torque wrench is, then you don't need to be building engines
My dad actually asked my how to use my torque wrench the other day. Guess the last time he used one was so long ago that it was nothing like these newer ones. It had a needle and a gauge that would tell you how much force you're applying.
I still have my dad's old needle torque wrench. Long way from the mechanical to the digital age. My dad was the same way with a new timing light.
omg now i want pizza hut god damn it
Ha!
LOL
found it
looks like hes building this engine on his kitchen floor
Are you in your kitchen?
What's the easiest way to get these Satan worshipping wrist pin clips in?
It has been a while since I have hung the rods on the wrist pins. I am "assuming" you have the clips but some need to be installed at the machine shop with a special oven type device. The clips (if I remember correctly - with my CRS) go in similar to the way the rings go on the pistons - but inside out! If that makes sense. Stretch the clips slightly like a slinky and feed it into the hole/slot and press in with a circular type motion to seat the clip all the way around the hole into the slot where they rest and hold the pin in. Hope this makes sense. it has been a while!
You might like some of my music videos on my other page also
youtube D O T c o m / videoproducer
Yeah and they are some tough clips. I got one piston done and only busted one knuckle. So 7 more pistons and 9 more knuckles so I should be good thanks
richard lundy
I think I have one finger left without a scar on it. That's why I let the machine shop hang the rods after they do the balancing. D'oh!
Don't look directly at the floor. Look at the motor and they all look like little swastikas lol
Ik I said the same thing to my self
D'oh!
LOL
SanDiegoHotRod lol but that was still a great series you make it look easy
Elante Ford
Thank you very much! Not perfect but wanted people to laugh and learn. So many engine videos on here but seems they all have a stick up their butt! The follow up to this series is on assembling the external parts. MUCH nicer engine and the 65 Chevelle I put the red engine into will be featured in an upcoming music video!
buy a tripod...
That would be REALLY boring to watch.
SanDiegoHotRod Not hardly, would not only relive the seasickness, but also the cringe factor of watching someone with two hands, install piston rings one handed.
Seriously though, you've got a good story to tell. But a little desk tripod, or make one based on a magnet mounted dial gage..
LOL Thanks! I hear what you're saying. It took me a couple years just to post these videos because they are so bad imo. I have a $5000 camera and a $500 tripod that I use for filming tv shows and commercials. Just did not want to get them dirty and oily. Check out some of my real film work on my other page. th-cam.com/users/videoproducer
SanDiegoHotRod I can see why you'd think that, having done pro stuff. But people, including myself, luv this stuff. So bad directing and camera angles add to them I think. And for the engine building/repairs, etc., all you need is your phone. I built a mount for mine out of a piece of 2x2 and some dowels.