Excellent review and summary. These videos are one of the main reasons why I invested in a Rupes system vs. the competitors because you're always at the forefront of customer outreach by passing on your generations of knowledge. Which in my book deserves gratitude and I knew of no other way to better express my gratitude and loyalty to the brand than by purchasing your incredible products. Thank you.
i've got to agree.. 12 months ago i didnt even have a polisher... now ive got 3 Rupes which i love.... and a Flex Forced rotation cordless (sorry) but these videos are so confidence inspiring, and allow you to believe in your own abilities
I'm 2004 I spent $11,400.00 dollars on my drum set. I was a working professional drummer / instructor at the time. The company, dw (drum workshop) out of California offered me a significant discount. Retal was $22,000.00 on it. There is a total of thirteen drums. I chose the exotic bitdseye maple finish in charcoal. The drums were gorgeous, but looked purple. When the rep called to see how I like them, I told him I was thinking of selling them because I didn't know the color would look more purple than grey. Long story short, the paid to have my drums mailed from MI to CA, they built me a completely brand new set of drums, after confirming a sample shell, and sent the drums back. Free of charge. I wanted to pay something, but they refused. I think of that often, and when I get the occasional for endorsement of other companies, I refuse. If I wouldn't pay full price to play it, I don't want to be associated with it. I will pay the full price for a Rupes tool, or drum workshop drum, because they've demonstrated to me their appreciation of their customers based on how they care for them. I had to send my Duetto in for service. I got it in 2014, and it was my first Rupes tool. It is the crown jewel of my detaining arsenal. When I use it, I can't believe they packed that much performance in that style - my favorite style tool. The brushes wore out and the armature needed to replace. I could do it myself, and have a very difficult time, or I could send it in and have a basically "brand new" tool. The fact I can send such a sentimental piece of my inventory, and have it lovingly returned to factory spec is a huge display of their customer appreciation. Incredible service, and incredible products.
Excellent point. Really environment (ambient conditions) impact all matters of polishing, from result to user experience, and efficiency. Nearly all operations in paint correction are better when the process is performed in a controlled environment.
Depends on the level of correction needed, complexity of the job, and the amount of time you're willing to dedicate to the process. If the job justifies the time/labor removing badges and reinstalling them after the correction is the 'best' way. If the badges must remain in place then masking them with tape is an option.
Thankyou Jason for your insight which is always appreciated even though I rarely polish/detail anything these days. Mitsubishi is one of the worst brands when it comes to paint in recent years IMHO. Their paint looks not much better than cellophane these days. Most polishes do not film very well on them and the paint is somewhat grabby. The compound/polish wont turn to a clear or white film on the surface at all, it just dries up to nothing. Isuzu is not much better. Audi and range rover paint finishes however are very good to excellent in most cases and the Aston Martin DB11 that I coated last week was insane. Dead flat. Finishing a car's paint is what I feel I did better during my career than removing defects. My saying was - If the finish I deliver to the customer does not satisfy his/her expectations then who cares how quickly I removed the defects. "Focus on delivering the best finish based on what their paying whilst being as efficient as possible" was my motto. Okay my question is - What is Rupes stance on closed cell and open cell foam pads? Open cell creates air flow which reduces heat build up but it also dries the compound/polish quicker which is something I never wanted back in the DAT polish days. They also soak up polish easily if you use too much. Closed cell keeps the compound/polish where it needs to be, creates more heat but works more efficiently. I've always liked closed cell foam but I know they wont last as long as open cell but they dont absorb polish anywhere near as much or lose their density as quickly as some open cell foams. Nothing worse than a pad that loses its density too quickly.
Thanks, as always, for sharing your insights and questions. All our products are designed to promote airflow, so in that matter our pads are open cell by choice. In our experience heat is the bigger adversary in the process. Compounds can be formulated to function more effectively with open cell materials. Techniques can be more easily adjusted to accomplish the task. Heat management, in our research, is the hardest thing for technicians to compensate for or even know when it is becoming problematic. To that end, providing materials that manage heat most effectively is, in our opinion, the right approach.
Great suggestion! We will have content on this coming up and we have some exciting "painter focused" training courses coming soon that will be ideal for this type of question.
Great little video and very helpful, thanks a lot for spending time answering our questions. Given that you still sell rotary polishers it would be nice to see a video where you are showing us how to get the best results using a rotary. They may not be as popular as they were a few years back but definitely still a very useful tool with which to get great results. Thanks again.
Great work by the rupes team for bring these topic light and sharing some knowledge to all ! A quite arguable topic to shed some more light on would be "to protect or not to protect newly paint vehicles" that just came out of the bodyshop . Where methods such as forced curing and chemical advancement in catalyst are concern ,should the paint still be left to outgas before polishing and applying wax , coating or even paint protection film to protect the surface and how dependent it is on the the paint job done
Good topic for a future episode. There are a lot of variables, including the type of paint, whether or not it was mixed to the paint manufacturers specs, how it was sprayed, how it was cured, etc.
Jason.... this is the "dark arts" when you start experimenting with differing pads and compounds, but once again youve shown that with a little sideways thinking, you can achieve results which are needed and deserved seems so logical, to make the pad spend less time on any given area, but easily forgotten in the heat of the moment
Good to see you're picking up on the concept. You're correct, these adjustments are not complicated, but as you said - easy to forget as we work. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks Jason, it's funny, I don't speak English but I clearly understood what you meant. Very good video. I don't use Rupes because where I live, Rupes has almost no presence. But I get by with your ex team's stuff. Greetings from Chile. Fran
I’ve got this terrible GM black in the shop right now. I started on blue wool coarse foam with DA coarse and struggling to finish it out. I’ve tried yellow fine on yellow fine foam, using the 21 no go. So I guess I might have to go at her with my old school cyclo or the porter cable? Also tried ultra fine on ultra fine white, same thing mild haze. I will also try the other recommendations in this video on tool speed and cycle time
Cycle time and speed adjustments are the adjustments that will give you a high chance for success. Just as the video indicated, all the tool have a high capacity for finishing IF you make the adjustments. Before throwing another tool at it, try cutting your cycle time down to 15-20 seconds with increased arm speed.
Jason, techniques/tools/devices have you found best for getting the hard to reach areas such as the center of a hood on a lifted truck? Heck, even though I can stand in the bed of a truck to address the roof it's still difficult to see if the job is being done correctly.
Great question. Scaffolding, ladders, or platforms help a ton. On really large vehicles there are even specialized tools known as "topside creepers". These are generally to allow someone to perform engine work on taller vehicles, but they work as a stable platform for a detailer to address the center sections of hoods on tall vehicles as well. If you do a lot of lifted trucks or larger vehicles it may be worth investing in something like that to help you address those areas.
The Duetto is the one I use most! I like the 21 for big panels, but the Duetto does the most of remainder of the vehicles. I wonder how a Rupes Duetto 8mm would feel..?
hello, excellent videos, but I have some doubts, what speed setting would we use for soft paints with the rupes mini? if you could put what speed setting is better for yellow pad and white pad...
Thanks for watching and commenting. Tool speed is a variable that you adjust based on the situation. On some paints it could be higher, on others it could be lower. This is also in combination with other variables like arm speed and down pressure. For standard applications we recommend the tool be operated in range 3-4 on the speed dial, however depending on the hardness particular paint you're on, the severity of the defect you're addressing, and the other variables we mentioned below the speed could be higher or lower.
In case of very very soft paint , sprayed 1 month ago and was "polished"very unprofessional to remove defects like dust , how to remove deep deep holograms and massive haze withouth taking too much of the paint ? I want the best finish before ceramic coating, but the paint its so soft , cant get nice finish , even its so hard to wipe the rest of the liquid after polishing with the microfiber!
Thanks for your comments. It is impossible to say because there are so many variables. In many cases all you need is a fine or ultrafine polish to remove holograms and haze, even severe ones, as most of those conditions are very shallow on the paints surface and do not require aggressive products to correct. Ultimately, you need to perform a test spot to see what the best solution will be. That is the only way to know for sure.
I got problem with soft paint like Nissan, Honda , toyota , ford I been facing terrible car scratch and i need Paint correction so what should i do Sticky pain
Sticky paint can be a very big challenge. If you haven't yet, take a look at our paint correction web app for recommendations. You can also reach out to our technical team for more detailed support via the contact us page of our website. www.rupes.com/web-app/
Gracias. Agregamos las traducciones al español a casi todos los videos ahora. A veces no está disponible inmediatamente cuando lo cargamos, pero si no lo está, lo agregaremos dentro de unos días.
Can you make a video on how to polish/restore faded carbon fiber hood? If it’s possible. Btw thank you for making useful videos! Simple and easy to understand!
Thanks for watching and we can try to create that video. In nearly all cases the process will be the same as it would be on any other automotive surface because you are not dealing with raw carbon fiber. It will be clear coated or top coated with some type of clear layer that would require the same process as any other painted panel.
Great videos and wonderful product, RUPES team! 😎 Quick question ... when I shake (as must be done) my 8.5oz bottle, I probably lose a half-ounce, once I pop up the cap (it keeps oozing out, even if kept upright). Is that normal, as it seems to be wasting precious product? 😕 P.S. By the way, what does the acronym “UNO” stand for?
Not sure we’ve experienced “oozing” after shaking the bottle, so we don’t really have any advice for you there. UNO is Italian for ONE. Since the UNO family of products is designed to work across all tool movements it is ONE product for all tools.
@@RUPES, thanks so much for the quick reply, team! 👍🏼 Thee oozing seems to have gotten better, after I removed the red tape that sealed the cap to the neck (I don' know if it's meant to be removed or not). Anyway, either enough product oozed out, or the pressure equilibrated enough, after shipping, that the problem has ceased. P.S. I'm surprised nobody's commented about the *_amazing_* scent of UNO Pure (it reminds of very nice sunscreen ... coconut/aloe vera-like)!! LOL
Glad to hear the problem is solved. We do not ship with tape applied to the bottle, so this is likely something your distributor did for shipping. In the future it would probably be a good idea to remove it immediately and maybe even unscrew the lid slightly to allow the pressure inside to equalize. Also happy to hear you like the smell. We think its subtle and unique! :)
Hi, do we have to use D-A FINE after doing D-A COARSE or have gone directly to UNO PURE? Is UNO PURE designed to go directly after D-A COARSE? (D-A FINE + UNO PURE) or (D-A COARSE + UNO PURE) Will these two combinations give essentially the same result? Because I don't want to do 3 steps for nothing. Many thanks for your response.
You don’t have to follow a strict tiered system for paint correction. Any combination of our products can potentially provide a one-step correction, depending on the hardness or softness of the clear coat. Start with D-A FINE and Yellow Foam for most vehicles. If this doesn’t remove defects, try a Yellow Wool pad for heavier cutting. For softer clear coats, if D-A FINE leaves a haze, consider using a White Foam pad with UNO PURE. For heavy cutting, Blue Wool and D-A COARSE might be needed, with a follow-up step using either D-A FINE or UNO PURE as necessary- but both should not be needed. Always perform a test spot to determine the best combination for your specific paint and defect level. Hope this helps!
It isn't required, but if you intend to apply a protective coating you should follow whatever procedures the manufacturer of that product recommends to get the best results with their product after polishing. That may or maynot involve a prep wipe.
Jason, sorry but I have another question: when you say "clean the pad frequently" what do you mean exactly? I understand that depend on the paint hardness/softness but , thinking to be on a original German paint, generally speaking is suggested to clean one time for every door panels, for examples? Thx
No need to apologize. We're happy to answer questions - that is what this video series is all about! The fact is you cannot clean too much. The cleaner the pad is the better it will perform. On a harder paint, there will be fewer side effects if you complete multiple passes and panels before cleaning because the paint is removed slower and the paint is more resistant to marring from the residues. A softer paint will load the pad faster and be more prone to hazing. Because hardness is a scale with infinite possibilities its best to "read the paint" - if you notice a haze after two or three passes it is a good indication that you probably need to clean as frequently as every pass. If it does not then you don't need to clean that frequently. All of these things are about observing the results and adjusting to compensate for what you see.
@@RUPES I think to understand why I noted some haze zones after a couple of passes....maybe the clear topcoat too soft !! I keep this information in my pocket for the next car...thnx very much guys!
Thanks for posting your question. No. That wouldn't be a good idea, because UNO Protect is leaving behind solids (a polymer sealant) so going over the top of that with an abrasive, even something ultrafine like Pure, is going to remove that product. It would also likely clog up the foam pad with the uncured sealant and make for a really bad polishing experience. There really isn't a realistic scenario where you would choose to use UNO Protect and UNO Pure on the same vehicle. Two different products for two very different uses.
Jason, how can I understand how is soft/hard the paint? Mostly when we are in front of a car repainted and we don't how "old"is the paint but also the type of chemistry used in the paint (solventbase or waterbased) . About this point, which is the better for polishing?
Thanks for your question. Just as the video indicates there is absolutely no way to know if a paint is hard, soft, or anywhere in between until you perform the test spot. Performing the test spot will give you an indication of what the paint hardness is, and what it might respond best to from a polishing approach. Check out our videos on test spots for more information on diagnosing paint: RUPES Replies: How to Do a Test Spot - th-cam.com/video/0Z79_1h2SyA/w-d-xo.html BigFoot 101: The Test Spot - th-cam.com/video/N1Zoc2W2Tbo/w-d-xo.html
Where are you located? If you can get UNO Protect you should be able to also get UNO Pure. To answer your question however, that would not be recommended. If you need a product for a final polish before coating and cannot get UNO Pure we would recommend instead D-A Fine. If you need help finding a distributor with the products you want contact us for assistance www.rupes.com/contact-us
UNO Pure is not a protective product, so there is no cure or dwell time. Treat it like any other compound or polish and wipe it off immediately after the application cycle is complete and you need to inspect your results.
It’s a vortex blow gun for compressed air. Not sure of the particular brand of the one in the video, but Tornador is a popular brand for that style of tool.
Reasons why this can happen: using too much compound on the pad, surface contamination can cause compound to dry out and become sticky (we recommend wiping the surface down with a decontamination spray beforehand - REVEAL products are great for this), over-cycling can cause solvents to harden - you'll get the best results between 30-45 seconds cycle time, also keep caps closed, open caps cause outgassing which dries out compound and causes it to be sticky to the surface. Hope that helps!
UNO Pure, discutido en este video, no tiene protección. Es posible que lo confunda con UNO Protect. Un producto diferente, que tiene hasta 90 días de protección con sellador.
@@marioescobar5027 No hay problema. Los subtítulos en español suelen aparecer en el video más tarde. Vuelve pronto. En cuanto a las características de UNO Pure. Es un pulimento de acabado ultrafino. No tiene protección, ni rellenos, ni esmaltes para ocultar defectos. Es la solución perfecta para un automóvil que se va a recubrir o para el pulido final de pinturas que crean una neblina cuando se utilizan abrillantadores más agresivos. Disculpe cualquier mala gramática. Estoy usando el traductor de Google para este mensaje.
@@RUPES no te preocupes quedo bien explicado las características y el uso del UNO Pure pulimento ultra fino y puede usarse antes de aplicar un recubrimiento .... Gracias y saludos desde Mexico 👍🏼👌🇲🇽😉☘️
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![How Long Do Compounds Last? - [RUPES Replies Season 02 Episode 01]](/img/tr.png)
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Excellent review and summary. These videos are one of the main reasons why I invested in a Rupes system vs. the competitors because you're always at the forefront of customer outreach by passing on your generations of knowledge. Which in my book deserves gratitude and I knew of no other way to better express my gratitude and loyalty to the brand than by purchasing your incredible products. Thank you.
WOW! Thank you for that fantastic compliment and we're so happy you're enjoying the content, support, and products.
i've got to agree.. 12 months ago i didnt even have a polisher... now ive got 3 Rupes which i love.... and a Flex Forced rotation cordless (sorry) but these videos are so confidence inspiring, and allow you to believe in your own abilities
I'm 2004 I spent $11,400.00 dollars on my drum set. I was a working professional drummer / instructor at the time. The company, dw (drum workshop) out of California offered me a significant discount. Retal was $22,000.00 on it. There is a total of thirteen drums. I chose the exotic bitdseye maple finish in charcoal.
The drums were gorgeous, but looked purple. When the rep called to see how I like them, I told him I was thinking of selling them because I didn't know the color would look more purple than grey.
Long story short, the paid to have my drums mailed from MI to CA, they built me a completely brand new set of drums, after confirming a sample shell, and sent the drums back. Free of charge. I wanted to pay something, but they refused.
I think of that often, and when I get the occasional for endorsement of other companies, I refuse. If I wouldn't pay full price to play it, I don't want to be associated with it.
I will pay the full price for a Rupes tool, or drum workshop drum, because they've demonstrated to me their appreciation of their customers based on how they care for them. I had to send my Duetto in for service. I got it in 2014, and it was my first Rupes tool. It is the crown jewel of my detaining arsenal. When I use it, I can't believe they packed that much performance in that style - my favorite style tool. The brushes wore out and the armature needed to replace. I could do it myself, and have a very difficult time, or I could send it in and have a basically "brand new" tool. The fact I can send such a sentimental piece of my inventory, and have it lovingly returned to factory spec is a huge display of their customer appreciation.
Incredible service, and incredible products.
Also room temperature matters on softer paint. People do it in the shade outside still hot will get that haze
Excellent point. Really environment (ambient conditions) impact all matters of polishing, from result to user experience, and efficiency. Nearly all operations in paint correction are better when the process is performed in a controlled environment.
@@RUPES how to polish around the car emblem or logo without damaging the pad ?
Depends on the level of correction needed, complexity of the job, and the amount of time you're willing to dedicate to the process. If the job justifies the time/labor removing badges and reinstalling them after the correction is the 'best' way. If the badges must remain in place then masking them with tape is an option.
Thankyou Jason for your insight which is always appreciated even though I rarely polish/detail anything these days. Mitsubishi is one of the worst brands when it comes to paint in recent years IMHO. Their paint looks not much better than cellophane these days. Most polishes do not film very well on them and the paint is somewhat grabby. The compound/polish wont turn to a clear or white film on the surface at all, it just dries up to nothing. Isuzu is not much better. Audi and range rover paint finishes however are very good to excellent in most cases and the Aston Martin DB11 that I coated last week was insane. Dead flat. Finishing a car's paint is what I feel I did better during my career than removing defects. My saying was - If the finish I deliver to the customer does not satisfy his/her expectations then who cares how quickly I removed the defects. "Focus on delivering the best finish based on what their paying whilst being as efficient as possible" was my motto. Okay my question is - What is Rupes stance on closed cell and open cell foam pads? Open cell creates air flow which reduces heat build up but it also dries the compound/polish quicker which is something I never wanted back in the DAT polish days. They also soak up polish easily if you use too much. Closed cell keeps the compound/polish where it needs to be, creates more heat but works more efficiently. I've always liked closed cell foam but I know they wont last as long as open cell but they dont absorb polish anywhere near as much or lose their density as quickly as some open cell foams. Nothing worse than a pad that loses its density too quickly.
Thanks, as always, for sharing your insights and questions. All our products are designed to promote airflow, so in that matter our pads are open cell by choice. In our experience heat is the bigger adversary in the process. Compounds can be formulated to function more effectively with open cell materials. Techniques can be more easily adjusted to accomplish the task. Heat management, in our research, is the hardest thing for technicians to compensate for or even know when it is becoming problematic. To that end, providing materials that manage heat most effectively is, in our opinion, the right approach.
Would be awesome to see a video on wet sanding fresh paint and removing the sand scratches with the best options on the Rupes system.
Great suggestion! We will have content on this coming up and we have some exciting "painter focused" training courses coming soon that will be ideal for this type of question.
Great little video and very helpful, thanks a lot for spending time answering our questions. Given that you still sell rotary polishers it would be nice to see a video where you are showing us how to get the best results using a rotary. They may not be as popular as they were a few years back but definitely still a very useful tool with which to get great results. Thanks again.
Great idea for a video and something we'll add to the list. Thanks for the suggestion, and thanks for watching!
Very useful for me, coincidentally because I'm trying to get into the field of body painting 😍
Best of luck!
Great work by the rupes team for bring these topic light and sharing some knowledge to all !
A quite arguable topic to shed some more light on would be "to protect or not to protect newly paint vehicles" that just came out of the bodyshop . Where methods such as forced curing and chemical advancement in catalyst are concern ,should the paint still be left to outgas before polishing and applying wax , coating or even paint protection film to protect the surface and how dependent it is on the the paint job done
Good topic for a future episode. There are a lot of variables, including the type of paint, whether or not it was mixed to the paint manufacturers specs, how it was sprayed, how it was cured, etc.
Jason.... this is the "dark arts" when you start experimenting with differing pads and compounds, but once again youve shown that with a little sideways thinking, you can achieve results which are needed and deserved
seems so logical, to make the pad spend less time on any given area, but easily forgotten in the heat of the moment
Good to see you're picking up on the concept. You're correct, these adjustments are not complicated, but as you said - easy to forget as we work. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Love this series, you definitely need to bring them back.
Excelentes consejos. Agradezco infinita mente estos vídeos y que estén subtitulados al español es un plus realmente grandioso.. un abrazo
Nos alegra saber que estás disfrutando de los videos. ¡Gracias por ver!
Thanks for doing these super informative little videos. 👍 good to know a few things I can change up for those stubborn paints.
Happy to help and thanks for watching!
Thanks Jason, it's funny, I don't speak English but I clearly understood what you meant. Very good video. I don't use Rupes because where I live, Rupes has almost no presence. But I get by with your ex team's stuff.
Greetings from Chile.
Fran
Glad it was helpful!
Nice work guys - solid video.
Thank you!
Thank you. Great advice!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
I’ve got this terrible GM black in the shop right now. I started on blue wool coarse foam with DA coarse and struggling to finish it out. I’ve tried yellow fine on yellow fine foam, using the 21 no go. So I guess I might have to go at her with my old school cyclo or the porter cable? Also tried ultra fine on ultra fine white, same thing mild haze. I will also try the other recommendations in this video on tool speed and cycle time
Cycle time and speed adjustments are the adjustments that will give you a high chance for success. Just as the video indicated, all the tool have a high capacity for finishing IF you make the adjustments. Before throwing another tool at it, try cutting your cycle time down to 15-20 seconds with increased arm speed.
Hi Total Package Detailing, did the adjustments work? I have the same problem with the 21. Greets Michael
@@mboating340 Yep. Less passes did it.
@@mboating340 Well less cycle time rather I mean. Same passes just moving a heck of a lot faster in the arm speed.
Jason, techniques/tools/devices have you found best for getting the hard to reach areas such as the center of a hood on a lifted truck? Heck, even though I can stand in the bed of a truck to address the roof it's still difficult to see if the job is being done correctly.
Great question. Scaffolding, ladders, or platforms help a ton. On really large vehicles there are even specialized tools known as "topside creepers". These are generally to allow someone to perform engine work on taller vehicles, but they work as a stable platform for a detailer to address the center sections of hoods on tall vehicles as well. If you do a lot of lifted trucks or larger vehicles it may be worth investing in something like that to help you address those areas.
Great video guys! Very informative and comprehensive
Glad you enjoyed it!
The Duetto is the one I use most! I like the 21 for big panels, but the Duetto does the most of remainder of the vehicles.
I wonder how a Rupes Duetto 8mm would feel..?
Great job Jason!
Thanks for watching!
Great information as always. Like the new music, and animations too.
Thank you!
Great information.see you in March..
hello, excellent videos, but I have some doubts, what speed setting would we use for soft paints with the rupes mini? if you could put what speed setting is better for yellow pad and white pad...
Thanks for watching and commenting. Tool speed is a variable that you adjust based on the situation. On some paints it could be higher, on others it could be lower. This is also in combination with other variables like arm speed and down pressure. For standard applications we recommend the tool be operated in range 3-4 on the speed dial, however depending on the hardness particular paint you're on, the severity of the defect you're addressing, and the other variables we mentioned below the speed could be higher or lower.
@@RUPES OK thank you very much.
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Rotary master☝️
good tools
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Great content as usual!!!
Thank you!
If I’m trying to quickly wetsand a soft paint can I use blue polish/pad and next white polish/pad and skip the yellow pad/polish step ?
Potentially. Product combinations are paint dependent. Also the choice of sanding grain and quality of sanding mark refinement are also variables.
In case of very very soft paint , sprayed 1 month ago and was "polished"very unprofessional to remove defects like dust , how to remove deep deep holograms and massive haze withouth taking too much of the paint ?
I want the best finish before ceramic coating, but the paint its so soft , cant get nice finish , even its so hard to wipe the rest of the liquid after polishing with the microfiber!
Thanks for your comments. It is impossible to say because there are so many variables. In many cases all you need is a fine or ultrafine polish to remove holograms and haze, even severe ones, as most of those conditions are very shallow on the paints surface and do not require aggressive products to correct. Ultimately, you need to perform a test spot to see what the best solution will be. That is the only way to know for sure.
I got problem with soft paint like Nissan, Honda , toyota , ford
I been facing terrible car scratch and i need Paint correction so what should i do Sticky pain
Sticky paint can be a very big challenge. If you haven't yet, take a look at our paint correction web app for recommendations. You can also reach out to our technical team for more detailed support via the contact us page of our website.
www.rupes.com/web-app/
exelente espero y sigan subtitulando al español sus videos
Gracias. Agregamos las traducciones al español a casi todos los videos ahora. A veces no está disponible inmediatamente cuando lo cargamos, pero si no lo está, lo agregaremos dentro de unos días.
Can you make a video on how to polish/restore faded carbon fiber hood? If it’s possible. Btw thank you for making useful videos! Simple and easy to understand!
Thanks for watching and we can try to create that video. In nearly all cases the process will be the same as it would be on any other automotive surface because you are not dealing with raw carbon fiber. It will be clear coated or top coated with some type of clear layer that would require the same process as any other painted panel.
@@RUPES thank you for your reply!!
Hola se puede pasar con otro pad que no sea el blanco de rupes? Gracias
PS who came up with that awesome jingle at the end of the video. It's catchy.
Credit to our Creative Specialist, Bradley, who does all our editing.
Great videos and wonderful product, RUPES team! 😎
Quick question ... when I shake (as must be done) my 8.5oz bottle, I probably lose a half-ounce, once I pop up the cap (it keeps oozing out, even if kept upright). Is that normal, as it seems to be wasting precious product? 😕
P.S. By the way, what does the acronym “UNO” stand for?
Not sure we’ve experienced “oozing” after shaking the bottle, so we don’t really have any advice for you there.
UNO is Italian for ONE. Since the UNO family of products is designed to work across all tool movements it is ONE product for all tools.
@@RUPES, thanks so much for the quick reply, team! 👍🏼
Thee oozing seems to have gotten better, after I removed the red tape that sealed the cap to the neck (I don' know if it's meant to be removed or not). Anyway, either enough product oozed out, or the pressure equilibrated enough, after shipping, that the problem has ceased.
P.S. I'm surprised nobody's commented about the *_amazing_* scent of UNO Pure (it reminds of very nice sunscreen ... coconut/aloe vera-like)!! LOL
Glad to hear the problem is solved. We do not ship with tape applied to the bottle, so this is likely something your distributor did for shipping. In the future it would probably be a good idea to remove it immediately and maybe even unscrew the lid slightly to allow the pressure inside to equalize. Also happy to hear you like the smell. We think its subtle and unique! :)
The help text was from Larry Kosilla
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Thank you for watching!
Hi, do we have to use D-A FINE after doing D-A COARSE or have gone directly to UNO PURE? Is UNO PURE designed to go directly after D-A COARSE? (D-A FINE + UNO PURE) or (D-A COARSE + UNO PURE) Will these two combinations give essentially the same result? Because I don't want to do 3 steps for nothing.
Many thanks for your response.
You don’t have to follow a strict tiered system for paint correction. Any combination of our products can potentially provide a one-step correction, depending on the hardness or softness of the clear coat. Start with D-A FINE and Yellow Foam for most vehicles. If this doesn’t remove defects, try a Yellow Wool pad for heavier cutting. For softer clear coats, if D-A FINE leaves a haze, consider using a White Foam pad with UNO PURE. For heavy cutting, Blue Wool and D-A COARSE might be needed, with a follow-up step using either D-A FINE or UNO PURE as necessary- but both should not be needed. Always perform a test spot to determine the best combination for your specific paint and defect level. Hope this helps!
Hello Jason, I've not seen the question asked that after using UNO Pure or UNO Protect if putting a wax on is a good idea. Thanks Jim
After polishing or compounding with your products do we need to use an IPA after any application
It isn't required, but if you intend to apply a protective coating you should follow whatever procedures the manufacturer of that product recommends to get the best results with their product after polishing. That may or maynot involve a prep wipe.
Jason, sorry but I have another question: when you say "clean the pad frequently" what do you mean exactly? I understand that depend on the paint hardness/softness but , thinking to be on a original German paint, generally speaking is suggested to clean one time for every door panels, for examples? Thx
No need to apologize. We're happy to answer questions - that is what this video series is all about! The fact is you cannot clean too much. The cleaner the pad is the better it will perform. On a harder paint, there will be fewer side effects if you complete multiple passes and panels before cleaning because the paint is removed slower and the paint is more resistant to marring from the residues. A softer paint will load the pad faster and be more prone to hazing. Because hardness is a scale with infinite possibilities its best to "read the paint" - if you notice a haze after two or three passes it is a good indication that you probably need to clean as frequently as every pass. If it does not then you don't need to clean that frequently. All of these things are about observing the results and adjusting to compensate for what you see.
@@RUPES I think to understand why I noted some haze zones after a couple of passes....maybe the clear topcoat too soft !! I keep this information in my pocket for the next car...thnx very much guys!
Can I use uno pure (white finishing pad) after using uno protect (yellow wool pad)?
Thanks for posting your question.
No. That wouldn't be a good idea, because UNO Protect is leaving behind solids (a polymer sealant) so going over the top of that with an abrasive, even something ultrafine like Pure, is going to remove that product. It would also likely clog up the foam pad with the uncured sealant and make for a really bad polishing experience. There really isn't a realistic scenario where you would choose to use UNO Protect and UNO Pure on the same vehicle. Two different products for two very different uses.
Jason, how can I understand how is soft/hard the paint? Mostly when we are in front of a car repainted and we don't how "old"is the paint but also the type of chemistry used in the paint (solventbase or waterbased) . About this point, which is the better for polishing?
Thanks for your question. Just as the video indicates there is absolutely no way to know if a paint is hard, soft, or anywhere in between until you perform the test spot. Performing the test spot will give you an indication of what the paint hardness is, and what it might respond best to from a polishing approach. Check out our videos on test spots for more information on diagnosing paint:
RUPES Replies: How to Do a Test Spot - th-cam.com/video/0Z79_1h2SyA/w-d-xo.html
BigFoot 101: The Test Spot - th-cam.com/video/N1Zoc2W2Tbo/w-d-xo.html
@@RUPES I watched these videos many weeks ago...but re-watching with another target, another point of view is... another story. Thanks again !!
Im only can find uno protect in my country, is it ok for finishing, later i will wipe it out with IPA and go for ceramic coating step?
Where are you located? If you can get UNO Protect you should be able to also get UNO Pure. To answer your question however, that would not be recommended. If you need a product for a final polish before coating and cannot get UNO Pure we would recommend instead D-A Fine.
If you need help finding a distributor with the products you want contact us for assistance www.rupes.com/contact-us
@@RUPES indonesia, it is not ready yet.
How long is Uno Pure left on the paint before wipe off? I just purchased this product (didnt arrive in the mail yet) But wanted to check.
UNO Pure is not a protective product, so there is no cure or dwell time. Treat it like any other compound or polish and wipe it off immediately after the application cycle is complete and you need to inspect your results.
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Thank you for watching!
3:08 how is this tool called ?
It’s a vortex blow gun for compressed air. Not sure of the particular brand of the one in the video, but Tornador is a popular brand for that style of tool.
@@RUPES Thank's :)
Any tips for uno pure not wiping off easy?
Reasons why this can happen: using too much compound on the pad, surface contamination can cause compound to dry out and become sticky (we recommend wiping the surface down with a decontamination spray beforehand - REVEAL products are great for this), over-cycling can cause solvents to harden - you'll get the best results between 30-45 seconds cycle time, also keep caps closed, open caps cause outgassing which dries out compound and causes it to be sticky to the surface. Hope that helps!
@@RUPES thanks for the info, looks like i overwork the product
Second to none
Thank you!
Cuánto dura la protección del uno??
UNO Pure, discutido en este video, no tiene protección.
Es posible que lo confunda con UNO Protect. Un producto diferente, que tiene hasta 90 días de protección con sellador.
@@RUPES si lo confundí con el protect 😞 no me aparecían los subtítulos en español ... entonces cuales son las características del UNO Pure
@@marioescobar5027 No hay problema. Los subtítulos en español suelen aparecer en el video más tarde. Vuelve pronto.
En cuanto a las características de UNO Pure. Es un pulimento de acabado ultrafino. No tiene protección, ni rellenos, ni esmaltes para ocultar defectos. Es la solución perfecta para un automóvil que se va a recubrir o para el pulido final de pinturas que crean una neblina cuando se utilizan abrillantadores más agresivos.
Disculpe cualquier mala gramática. Estoy usando el traductor de Google para este mensaje.
@@RUPES no te preocupes quedo bien explicado las características y el uso del UNO Pure pulimento ultra fino y puede usarse antes de aplicar un recubrimiento ....
Gracias y saludos desde Mexico 👍🏼👌🇲🇽😉☘️
Los subtítulos en español ya están disponibles para ti 👍🏽
Rupes too expensive in my country
How many pads per car? Let's say a sedan
great. looking forward to more.
Awesome, thank you!