Thank you sincerely for these few videos. I had the same fault & stripped the unit to replace the rectification electrode & the element. An expensive repair but its all fully working again now. And that is in no small part to your video, so thank you!!.
Hi Paul. I do thank you most sincerely for your reply as it’s the few who reply positively that have made me carry on with the videos. Most don’t even comment but I’m so glad when people do because it’s saved them an expensive repair as a replacement boiler for our old van costs an arm and leg. I could not afford a replacement so had to jump in with the repair “blind” as there was nothing on TH-cam to help which is why I made the video. TH-cam is great to help people out with information - almost as good as Google 🙂. Thanks again for your response. Safe travels. Regards Peter
Excellent video Peter. Invaluable information if you’re like me and like to know how to service,look after and repair things. If I have any problems with my ultrastore, thanks to you, I’ll know how to get into it. You’re a top man 👍
Hi Al. Thanks for the comment. I made the video because like you and many others there was nothing out there to help and Truma were no help and I’m not made of money so had to tackle it or go without. Decided to make a video of the repair and so pleased I did as it has helped many others. Got to keep the old girl going and with each passing year it gets a bit harder but we persevere. Hope all goes well. Regards Peter
@@brucepeter2007 Hey Peter! Well I did it!!! After a 3 hour road trip to get the part £13.37 (Bargain on your £40!!) they were £45 and upwards elsewhere! Anyway I fitted it (after cleaning 20 years of S.h.1.t out of the bottom) and a little tip for fellow headcases, I managed by luck to grind a straight line in the top of the retaining screw instead of grinding it off completely and it unscrewed!!!! Anyway, it fired up first go and I thought I had nailed it but then after 5 minutes it cut out, I was gutted, anyway kept resetting and then it lasted 5 minutes again and then the last time lasted 15 minutes - I then had to leave so will go back and see what happens this morning. I hope this information might be of use to others!! I'll send another update later today but all in all looking good so far!! I think between us we have saved at least £400 and we know the job has been done properly!! Cheers once again Peter!!
Hi Al. Sounds like your on you way. Make sure the following criteria are met when you test. 1) you have a fully charged battery. (Circuits are voltage dependant). 2) the water boiler is not fitted. 3) the gas cylinder is full and is delivering the correct pressure. Assuming you have done your tests with above fully met the fault still suggests the flame failure because the probe is sensitive to position. It must be in the flame to allow half rectification to be transmitted to the main board. - if the flame is blown away from the probe the rectification will stop and the ignition circuit with start clicking even though there is a wholly lit burner and then if the flame stays away from the electrode for any time the gas valve will shut off the gas and the red light shows. If the above sequence starts and the ignition starts clicking then stops this again shows that the rectification process has started again and the flame failure circuit is working and doing its job which can be perplexing. Hope this will further help you. Regards Peter @@aljamieson491
@@brucepeter2007 Hey Peter, I had already put it all back together before I fired it up, tank et al yesterday and yes I had met all your criteria's already! Thumbs up! Well it lit first time this morning no problem at all and then after about 5 minutes it shut down again. I think flicked the switch around 5 times at least and then it finally lit again and remained lit for at least 3 hours before I switched it off. I off loaded a load of hot water in order for it to refill with cold and repeat the heating process. It recognised this as it should and kicked into life again (exhaust making loader noise due to increased combustion) and then once reached operating temperature reduced itself back down again so it was all operating correctly. You're total correct on the positioning of the probe. I simply gauged the old one and sat it in the same position. If the fault still persists I will simply take it out again and move it in ever so slightly further! I'm going to email Truma and see what the supposed set distance is supposed to be unless you've asked this question and know already please Peter? Fun n' games buddy!! Cheers!
@@brucepeter2007 Hey Peter, did you get my second update please buddy? And I also asked if you knew the specified gap between the rectification electrode and the burner? It worked for 3 hours yesterday then I switched it off! Just tried again but the wind is up and not helping matters! I'm going to pull it out again next week and nudge the electrode in a couple of mm and see what happens!! Cheers!
Hi Peter I was attempting to remove my boiler but not sure if I need to remove the outer exaust cover, and could only see 3 screws holding down the boiler itself. But couldn't make any.ore progress. Thanks benny.
Hi again Peter, thought I’d let you know that I’ve got my Truma working on gas again. Mine was an easy fix in the end. Dust and moisture got into the circuit board so I carefully dried it off with tissues and brushed all the components with a soft paint brush. The moisture was caused by a tiny hole in the cold water pipe feeding the Truma. Hope my comment might help others. Your videos were very helpful so thanks again and regards from New Zealand.😃
Hi Eric. Great news. Water getting onto the circuit board is a definite killer and you were lucky to be able to salvage the circuit board. I have to say that in the past I have owned two caravans and the latter had a pressurised water system. After I first got the van I noticed during the night that the water pump would come on very briefly! No internet then so after asking around most said you should always turn off the water pump electric but to my mind if you were in the van you didn’t want to do that as I would be back to the old micro switch in each tap head like my first van had... Quickly found that as long as you have got all air out of the system the tale tale re-pressurising of the system is due to a leak - go look for the leak! Unfortunately this vans last owner did nothing about any kind of water leak and this meant I ended up doing a seven part video on floor renewal. I am so pleased my video was of help in a small way as Truma dealers have no interest in servicing old units. As long as people are competent and sensible they should be able to tackle anything within reason. Thank you for your feedback all the way from NZ. Stay safe. Regards Peter
Hello Peter I'm on holiday right now and the electric heater is kaput..blows the fuse so i'm relying on the gas heater which takes ages to heat up. So I will be following your excellent videos to strip and repair my Truma Ultrastore. Many thanks for going to the trouble of producing the videos. Regards Pat
Hi Pat. Thanks for taking the time to comment. It sounds like the mains element has gone. I would always recommend to remove the whole unit and do a complete maintenance check and it’s also better as you will ensure any seals are correctly fitted as trying to do anything with the unit in site is almost impossible so it’s not worth trying to cut a corner that can cost you dear later on. Enjoy the rest of your holiday. Just getting over Covid here which has not been nice. Stay safe. Regards Peter
Thanks for the helpful video, which enabled me to get to the burner. In my case I had a faulty solenoid that didn't allow gas through. Once this was fixed the burner would light for a few seconds and then go out. It kept doing this automatically until I switched it off. I then replaced the cracked electrode with a new one, but the burner would still not come on continuously. I then checked the voltage of the battery which read 12.4 volts. I then fully charged the battery and now the burner stays on as expected. Out of curiosity I put the original electrode in and it worked fine. So in summary, the cracked porcelain around the electrode is not a reason for the burner not working. In my case it was a gas supply and voltage issue.
Hi Stephen. The flame failure device only works on micro Amps and is susceptible to dampness so failure in the morning is quite common. Any split in the porcelain ceramic means replacement. The probe handles flame failure rectification which is reliable - till it fails. Here is an interesting video about the ignition probe which is also susceptible to issues… th-cam.com/video/IwrYUcx1Sqc/w-d-xo.html
@@brucepeter2007 Thank you for your helpful reply. I was wondering whether I had wasted money on a new electrode, but am now reassured I did the right thing to replace it.
Thank you Peter for doing these videos, it will help me to solve my problem. Never been able to get it to work as it should, always cuts out, with red light. now with a bit of luck im going to be able to get it sorted. Cheers
Hi Mike. No simple way to service this type of heater and you have to bite the bullet and remove it. The video seems to be helping a lot of people which is great. Lots of other videos on repair on my channel. Thanks for your comment. Regards Peter
The Best 3 part series ive found on the interweb for that exact system. Grt video well explained hands on with gd video footage, i have the same issue this not going to be fun but with that info much clearer on whats ahead cheers mate.
Hi Nigel. Thank you so much for your reply and like you I found myself in exactly the same position with the manufacturer not interested and suppliers just saying it’s too old. Asking for a service proved a wast of time getting horrendous prices so I had no choice but to take a dive at it. As you saw I made the video on the fly so it’s “warts and all” but since doing it I am pleased to report it’s helped many others recycle the water heater into a usable bit of working kit again. It’s always great when i get a reply like yours as it gives me momentum for the next video. Thank you sir and stay safe. Regards Peter
Thanks Peter My heater developed a drip from drain pipe on cylinder last season and caravan engineer said it is hairline crack in water cylinder or pin hole. Only drips when at temperature. He wanted just over £1000 to supply and fit new heater or £750 to fit new heater cylinder and element. After watching your videos I now am confident I can fit a new complete heater I can buy for £429. Just one note - I think there should be a new seal fitted between water cylinder and cylinder housing to ensure no exhaust gases
Hi Dave. Thanks for the reply. - if you have a leak on the main cylinder this can be welded by someone who can do stainless steel. It will save you a fortune. Incidentally the seal you refer to - never had any type of seal fitted and when it’s tight there are no gaps… Glad I’ve saved you a few Bob. Regards Peter
@@brucepeter2007 Hi Peter strangely enough I was a sheetmetal worker working mainly with stainless steel for over 40 years. I will strip the old one down and inspect it and If i can find leak I will weld it, pressure test it and if all ok sell it on flee bay Thanks again for taking time to shoot and post a great video.👍
@@davemozza2550 Dave - I faced the same issue when I was looking for non existent information and the manufacturers never bothered with any other reply than to buy a new unit so I did it myself and filmed it to save others money - glad to help anyone and all I say to you is if you get any issues you try to repair please post a video or still onto TH-cam to help others. Kind regards - stay safe. Peter
We are struggling to get the same view as you to check the electrodes working. Do we have a different model? It’s US103-21012135. If it’s the same, how do you get the top off so we can take a good look?
Hi Douglas. Sorry to hear you have the same issue - but it could be a different problem giving the same red light fault. I can only say that due to there being nothing on TH-cam and dealers / Truma being no help I made the video as I investigate the problem in the hope it could also help others. As you now know how to strip it out to do a service you can at least investigate and repair as required. Seems to me they were never designed to be serviced and personally I prefer the old water heaters that fixed to the wall - few screws off, remove cover and your in… Only usually the diaphragm that went on them - little cost and dead easy to service. Anyway I’m hopeful my video will be of assistance to you and I wish you all the best. Regards Peter
@@brucepeter2007 I did take the whole boiler out which in fact was in very good condition for an 18yo. It turned out to a be hard to see blown fuse which like a numpty when replaced I didn't seat the circuit board correctly to line up with the contacts at the bottom Your vid gave the confidence to do the work in an hour or so and saved me probably a lot of cash.
@@douglasmorris8364 Hi Douglas. I’m so very pleased that with the help of my video you felt confident to have a go. I have to admit I was daunted when I fist contemplated the exercise because there were no videos or help that I could find anywhere so I decided to make the video as I went so others could save some cash. Please note I have posted many videos on my site and I also post them on my Facebook group “Mobilvetta Driver52 motorhome group” recently posted about changing fan stat on Ducato 1.9td plus loads of others… Regards Peter
Hi Bruce! Thanks for taking the time to reply and so pleased my video was of help. I made it because I could get no help regarding fixing my heater so made the videos as I went along to help others. Plenty of other jobs tackled on my motorhome and videos all on my channel if you wish to subscribe. Stay safe and well- Peter
Peter firstly many many thanks for taking the time in doing the videos much appreciated,only owned this 30 year old van a week and had nothing but issues .Im in the process of pulling my unit out ,all water disconnected just need to unscrew gas supply and pull it out .Same red light issue you had .The white electrodes looking through the vent are in a terrible state ,I’m in south UK ,what parts supplier did you get your parts from please ? And what do they call both of the white diodes again please ?
Hi Dirk. Only one part was needed in my case which is the special flame failure electrode and if you pause the image of the part you can read it on a larger screen. It is NOT a diode - there is a very small AC current which changes to half rectified as it travels from the electrode to the burner and this is the flame failure device that’s used on most gas ignition systems. I got the ceramic electrode off eBay.
Excellent videos thanks Peter. I think I have the same problem. Sometimes the heater will work on gas but it takes a lot of tries and a lot of clicks from green to red before it’ll decide to work.😤
Hi Eric. Thanks for posting a reply as it makes it worth while making the videos on my channel. The heater repair has been popular and like you I could find nothing of help out there and that includes Truma. Hope it also allows you to find the issue with yours as it seems a common problem. Regards Peter
Thanks Pete I'm in New Zealand no one wants to know about it down here they just want you to book the whole vehicle in mines on a transit , but I've just got my parts sent from England my main element had gone fixed that now can't get gas to lite ,got new burner ring and gas nozzle so I'm stumped ill pull it out again and check that thing that you just fixed .
Hi Mark. Got two members of my group in NZ so you’re not alone. Ref your issue on gas - do a mock-up out of the van. Gas bottle with regulator and feed the unit with 12v and gas - just make sure you fill the water reservoir with some water. There is no water pressure sensor so you only need enough water to stop any damage if the burner does light… The below help is only suggested but if you are in any way unsure then you must find an agent to service it as I would not be responsible for your safety... Remover the plastic wrap around cover Turn on the gas at the bottle and check there are no leaks in the gas feed. Make sure you have a good 12v supply into the unit. Turn the rotary switch so the indicator dimple is at the 12’o clock position. You should immediately hear a clicking sound as the spark bridges over the gap from the electrode to the burner - the clicking goes on for about 10 seconds and is easily discernible. if you do not clearly hear this the electronic ignition side of the main board could be faulty but before you slide that out check the lead that goes from the bottom of the board to the rear of the burner to see if it’s shorting out in any way. Immediately you turn on the unit the clicking is the first thing you hear followed by a clunk as the gas valve opens - if neither happens the supply board has become faulty and needs a good electronics engineer to sort it out. Cant remember from memory if there is a very small glass fuse on the board 🤔. So to recap, jury rig the unit turn on the dial listen for ignition clicks then the clunk as the gas valve opens… If the unit performs as stated above but the ignition spark still keeps going but the flame has clearly lit but then the gas valve clunks shut this is due to the failure of the flame failure device - this could either be the same issue that I had with the split ceramic insulator or it could be a circuit board problem. The latter results in an electronic engineer who knows his stuff to sort out as the new boards are an arm and a leg job - plus postage to NZ ain’t cheap. I hope this is helpful to you and I made the videos as there was no help to me from Truma except but a new one or order the parts from a distributor as in short they don’t care about older units - typical of most manufacturers now… I wish you good luck and I hope you will forgive the depth of my reply as I have no idea of the depth of your experience so forgive the simplicity of my reply as in no way have I wanted to insult your intelligence. Regards and good luck. Peter
Hi Peter,, very interesting videos. My problem is that my ultrastore does not work in 240v or gas. I suspect the overheat sensor. Have had the cct board tested which came back with no faults! Can you help? Also where did you find the spare parts? Thanks, Terry
Hi Terry. Interesting - as both are independent systems and it’s unusual for the sensors to go… If you’ve already had the board tested you really have no other option other than remove it to fully investigate / repair. O the gas side the first thing that should happen when you turn on the dial is the gas valve should open / energise before anything else is sensed. This is a loud thump that can’t be missed as the solenoid energies. If that’s not happening then trace the 12v supply back but - you say the board is fine which is confusing🤔. Parts are available via tremor direct or eBay but the former are very slow and unhelpful… Can’t offer any other help except you have just got to get the unit out and investigate methodically but that’s down to your own electrical / electronic competence… Good luck anyway. Regards Peter
Hi Peter brilliant video and extremely informative. Just wondering if the flame sensor could be checked for low resistance using an insulation tester? I'm having similar problems at the moment but it seem to rectify itself or it did last year !
Hi Sean. I found that the heater ignition was getting very problematic and this was because I suspected the dirt within the cracked porcelain was becoming conductive and the voltages concerned are so low I suspect that the resistance would be hard to measure - I tried every way and backwards but in the end it was “take it out or forget it” and Truma were no help at all. Thanks for the idea and please try it out as you might be lucky buy I tried with both a digital and moving coil resistance meter and I had no luck getting anywhere but you maybe luckier than me. Sorry I can’t be anymore helpful but good luck with your efforts. Regards Peter
Hi Peter Great video I have the same problem that the red failure light comes on when heating the water by gas Now I have an idea what’s involved and how to approach it Thanks Paul
Hi Paul. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I suspect you had the same problem I did - no help from Truma and no information on the Internet. I decided to do it myself and make a video so others could resolve the issue or at least understand what was involved. I’m so pleased to get comments from people who generally have older vans like mine and can’t afford a grand to pay for a dealer to sort it out - if they even want in the next year… Again thanks for your comment and good luck sorting your heater. Regards and stay safe. Peter
Thank you Peter I will strip it down and try and get it to work, I can't find any info on them at all lol, ours is free (I think) but just doesn't go up or down got a suspicion its that sensor Mick
Thanks for the video. I took mine apart ages ago and needed a video to see how to put it back haha. I took mine out of a caravan and it worked then... Lets hope it works now in my campervan conversion... I did notice the 240v wire is completely cut off at the base. Should just work on the 12v and gas.
Also, mine just has a hose coming out of both hot and cold, it doesnt have the truma fitting with the vent off. Wondering if its critical? I do have a drain valve. Isnt the small pipe going out to the side of the wall supposed to vent out?
Hi there and thanks for your reply. I made the video- as I did it - because I could find nothing on TH-cam which is always my first port of call. Now you’ve replied it makes making it worth while to know it’s helped someone. They are good units but the burner section is NOT made to be serviced at all which is typical of things now. The old type “Ascot” on the wall were sooo easy to service but don’t look good hanging on the wall. Modern design could get over the issue of Co2 as the boiler could be the same type of flu/air intake of modern boilers... But alas it’s all made for limited life and after that it’s a throw away. Sad. I hope you get your unit to go into your van OK and I would advise an pre installation try at first to save you cutting vent holes. Stay safe. Regards Peter
@@brucepeter2007 SO i had my lpg tank filled up for the first time and as predicted the bloody thing is not working! I can hear the ignition it goes green then after 5 seconds or so the red light comes on... I tried for a few minutes, maybe air in the pipes. I REEEEALLLY dont want to take it out... There is no space to move it back to take it out, the flue is inside the campervan insulation wall, and behind the boiler is a water tank now... Hope I can open it without taking it out if needed. ARGH :)
Hi Peter. Thanks for your great video. I have a 21yr old Truma water heater which was working fine, but recently it gives me the red light and no hot water. Do you by chance have the exact part number for the porcelain electrode you replaced? I'm going to try and source one here in NZ. Cheers Paul
Hi NZ. Thanks for taking the time to reply. First I must point out that you should be competent at working with a multimeter, water and gas before you proceed. If your happy to proceed then all the information can be seen in the video... Firstly the issue with showing the red light on the control panel could be down to a number of factors but the good news is - as shown in my video - the faulty item can be clearly seen on inspection. But don’t start pulling everything out till you have checked the obvious... First check is confirm power is getting to the heater - ensure the power gets to the unit then you can check the fuse on the circuit board is not blown. If you have power at the unit you can then see if you get the heavy thump as the units gas valve opens together with the HT clicking which ignites the gas - if there is no ignition the control board will shut down the gas valve and you will get the red light.Also please check you have removed the external vent cover and that you have no obstructions to a good air flow into the burner area and also no obstructions to the exhaust as this also turns the unit off. Hope this helps you.
@@brucepeter2007 PS I'm very competent in doing all kinds of repair work myself. I hire out 3 English caravans here in NZ and there are always issues I have to deal with. Doing the work myself saves a heap of money.
Hi Peter this is a great video ,it has helped me a great deal I think I have the same issue a have removed my unit and stripped it down , can I ask were I can get the parts from please
Hi George. About 4 minutes in on this video I show the part needed to be ordered - just press pause and you can clearly get the Truma part number then order up off eBay. - I did this and that’s why I posted on the video OUCH at the price. A normal boiler probe doing the same job is about a tenner but with a Motorhome it’s a fortune. No choice but to pay for the part. Good luck glad my video helped. Regards Peter
Hi there. Thanks for taking the time to comment - always nice when someone takes the time to reply. I make the videos to help others which I feel is the great legacy of TH-cam. Regards Peter
Thank you Peter, we are having exactly the same problem on our mobilvetta motorhome, going to tackle it when the weather is better, you don't know anything about the auto up and down step do you ?
Hi Mic. Step was one of first things I did but unfortunately I did not take pictures or make a video. First take off step cover and you will find the stupid metal rotation bar has rusted solid. I could not free mine no matter what I tried - even using a heat source. Due to this I took the whole unit out which was fun. It’s just a windscreen wiper mechanism in truth so not hard to work with... Regards Peter
@@brucepeter2007 Hi Peter as I say thank you for replying, I will have a go at it when the weather is a bit better, I don't know if its that sensor, but great video's ours is a top driver 61 and trying to get info well u know lol
After I refurbed the unit I removed the sensor unit as it had failed because the step mechanism had seized up. Just listen to the steps motor and as soon as it labours turn off the switch. Works for me.
@Ian Vanoorschot Hi there. The sealant I used was Dow Corning clear which is totally satisfactory around the outer part of the exterior vent as a seal between the van body and the heater,. Stay safe, stay warm. Regards Peter
Hi Mev- got the electrode from eBay ref 70000-56200. Truma really knock you as the same sort of thing for a normal gas boiler is only about £7 but Truma stitch you up good but no choice - hence the price!
@@brucepeter2007, Hi,Peter, l paid nearly £50, no luck, l just noticed my boiler spark electro no clicking nothing, gas valve open, l managed to spark manually with long kitchen lighter, what do you think? Spark Electrode or spark sensor or module on motherboard, mother board looks new but l don't want to spend a lot of money, Thanks for reply
@@mevdee2008 Hi there - all I can say is you need to tackle it methodically and start with your fuses then check power is getting to the unit and the board. Your description is very vague and unhelpful. If your getting no ignition spark or clicking sound suspect the board which are expensive. The electrode in the flame does not prevent gas ignition it just prevents the gas from flowing by shutting off the gas valve…
@@brucepeter2007 Thanks for reply, my controller 50 and 70 degrees showing, power there, when l switch on gas valve opens and 10 second later shut off itself red light on continuously, but spark not ticking, l ordered spark electrode cost me £30 hopefully will fix the problem, fuse is OK, Thanks again
@@mevdee2008 That’s a bit more information so I would suspect it could be the HT generator on the main board as you should be able to hear the ticking of the spark - and you say you can’t…
Nice One Pete, just got our first Motorhome tent van trailer before, great to know its is a serviceable unit, any chance you can put the details of the part and a link to the supplier for all to see. Mick the Plumber.
Hi Mick. Thanks for the reply. Water and electrics don’t mix and you was lucky the water didn’t do any other permanent damage and so pleased you found the problem… In my video number three the cost was £40 mentioned at 1:10 minutes and the part number (70000-56200) was also shown in video number three at 4:19 minutes. I got it from an eBay supplier. I have to say that although it’s serviceable Truma don’t make it easy and the cost of parts -especially if you have to replace the circuit board is horrendously expensive. I have to say I prefer the good old “on the wall” water heater as they were so simple to service and went on forever… These newer units aren’t an improvement they are just made to work and throw away - Just my personal view.
@@brucepeter2007 Cheers I had one of the old on-the-wall heaters and I moved it 5 times to different locations, wonder if I could get one of them if my traumatically priced heater gives up cheers but you have inspired me to know its doable.
Thanks Peter. Pretty sure this is the problem I have. From your experience, do you think if I took the plastic top off, undid the cylinder clamp and removed it, I could change the device without actually getting the whole unit out? I appreciate you removed the unit, but once you recognised the problem, do you think there is any reason it cannot be fixed just from above? Would appreciate your advice. Stuart
Hi Stuart. I personally would not recommend doing it the way you suggest because you could end up causing damage. To get to the burner cover clips and other bits off you need to get at angles you can’t get to if you leave the unit in-situ. Your only talking about the extra removal of 3 screws for the base unit and the removal of the sealant around the outside exhaust... Together with other points you can see in my video I could not remove the burner screws to replace the insulator anyway due to all the rust so I had to drill the screw out and use a new self tap screw - I can’t see how I could have done this if I had tried to do the repair with the heater in-situ. Good luck if you want to do it that way but I can’t endorse it knowing what was involved to repair mine. You could well end up in a minefield of issues and costing you a new heater... Regards Peter
Hi Stuart. I personally would not recommend doing it the way you suggest because you could end up causing damage. To get to the burner cover clips and other bits off you need to get at angles you can’t get to if you leave the unit in-situ. Your only talking about the extra removal of 3 screws for the base unit and the removal of the sealant around the outside exhaust... Together with other points you can see in my video I could not remove the burner screws to replace the insulator anyway due to all the rust so I had to drill the screw out and use a new self tap screw - I can’t see how I could have done this if I had tried to do the repair with the heater in-situ. Good luck if you want to do it that way but I can’t endorse it knowing what was involved to repair mine. You could well end up in a minefield of issues and costing you a new heater... Regards Peter
Hi Stuart. I personally would not recommend doing it the way you suggest because you could end up causing damage. To get to the burner cover clips and other bits off you need to get at angles you can’t get to if you leave the unit in-situ. Your only talking about the extra removal of 3 screws for the base unit and the removal of the sealant around the outside exhaust... Together with other points you can see in my video I could not remove the burner screws to replace the insulator anyway due to all the rust so I had to drill the screw out and use a new self tap screw - I can’t see how I could have done this if I had tried to do the repair with the heater in-situ. Good luck if you want to do it that way but I can’t endorse it knowing what was involved to repair mine. You could well end up in a minefield of issues and costing you a new heater... Regards Peter
Hi Stuart. I personally would not recommend doing it the way you suggest because you could end up causing damage. To get to the burner cover clips and other bits off you need to get at angles you can’t get to if you leave the unit in-situ. Your only talking about the extra removal of 3 screws for the base unit and the removal of the sealant around the outside exhaust... Together with other points you can see in my video I could not remove the burner screws to replace the insulator anyway due to all the rust so I had to drill the screw out and use a new self tap screw - I can’t see how I could have done this if I had tried to do the repair with the heater in-situ. Good luck if you want to do it that way but I can’t endorse it knowing what was involved to repair mine. You could well end up in a minefield of issues and costing you a new heater... Regards Peter
Hi Stuart. I personally would not recommend doing it the way you suggest because you could end up causing damage. To get to the burner cover clips and other bits off you need to get at angles you can’t get to if you leave the unit in-situ. Your only talking about the extra removal of 3 screws for the base unit and the removal of the sealant around the outside exhaust... Together with other points you can see in my video I could not remove the burner screws to replace the insulator anyway due to all the rust so I had to drill the screw out and use a new self tap screw - I can’t see how I could have done this if I had tried to do the repair with the heater in-situ. Good luck if you want to do it that way but I can’t endorse it knowing what was involved to repair mine. You could well end up in a minefield of issues and costing you a new heater... Regards Peter
Hi Gaynor. All the information is in my video and you can see the part number on video 3 @ 4:20. Make sure you look at every video and you won’t get any issues. I have included every bit of information I could. Don’t forget to pause at any interesting point and you can then zoom in to see more detail... Regards Peter
Thank you sincerely for these few videos. I had the same fault & stripped the unit to replace the rectification electrode & the element. An expensive repair but its all fully working again now. And that is in no small part to your video, so thank you!!.
Hi Paul. I do thank you most sincerely for your reply as it’s the few who reply positively that have made me carry on with the videos. Most don’t even comment but I’m so glad when people do because it’s saved them an expensive repair as a replacement boiler for our old van costs an arm and leg. I could not afford a replacement so had to jump in with the repair “blind” as there was nothing on TH-cam to help which is why I made the video.
TH-cam is great to help people out with information - almost as good as Google 🙂.
Thanks again for your response. Safe travels.
Regards Peter
Excellent video Peter. Invaluable information if you’re like me and like to know how to service,look after and repair things. If I have any problems with my ultrastore, thanks to you, I’ll know how to get into it. You’re a top man 👍
You are an utter legend!!!! Pulling mine out tomorrow, your priceless informative video has helped enormously thus far!!!! THANK YOU!!
Hi Al. Thanks for the comment. I made the video because like you and many others there was nothing out there to help and Truma were no help and I’m not made of money so had to tackle it or go without. Decided to make a video of the repair and so pleased I did as it has helped many others.
Got to keep the old girl going and with each passing year it gets a bit harder but we persevere. Hope all goes well. Regards Peter
@@brucepeter2007 Hey Peter! Well I did it!!! After a 3 hour road trip to get the part £13.37 (Bargain on your £40!!) they were £45 and upwards elsewhere! Anyway I fitted it (after cleaning 20 years of S.h.1.t out of the bottom) and a little tip for fellow headcases, I managed by luck to grind a straight line in the top of the retaining screw instead of grinding it off completely and it unscrewed!!!! Anyway, it fired up first go and I thought I had nailed it but then after 5 minutes it cut out, I was gutted, anyway kept resetting and then it lasted 5 minutes again and then the last time lasted 15 minutes - I then had to leave so will go back and see what happens this morning. I hope this information might be of use to others!! I'll send another update later today but all in all looking good so far!! I think between us we have saved at least £400 and we know the job has been done properly!! Cheers once again Peter!!
Hi Al. Sounds like your on you way.
Make sure the following criteria are met when you test.
1) you have a fully charged battery. (Circuits are voltage dependant).
2) the water boiler is not fitted.
3) the gas cylinder is full and is delivering the correct pressure.
Assuming you have done your tests with above fully met the fault still suggests the flame failure because the probe is sensitive to position.
It must be in the flame to allow half rectification to be transmitted to the main board. - if the flame is blown away from the probe the rectification will stop and the ignition circuit with start clicking even though there is a wholly lit burner and then if the flame stays away from the electrode for any time the gas valve will shut off the gas and the red light shows.
If the above sequence starts and the ignition starts clicking then stops this again shows that the rectification process has started again and the flame failure circuit is working and doing its job which can be perplexing.
Hope this will further help you.
Regards Peter
@@aljamieson491
@@brucepeter2007 Hey Peter, I had already put it all back together before I fired it up, tank et al yesterday and yes I had met all your criteria's already! Thumbs up! Well it lit first time this morning no problem at all and then after about 5 minutes it shut down again. I think flicked the switch around 5 times at least and then it finally lit again and remained lit for at least 3 hours before I switched it off. I off loaded a load of hot water in order for it to refill with cold and repeat the heating process. It recognised this as it should and kicked into life again (exhaust making loader noise due to increased combustion) and then once reached operating temperature reduced itself back down again so it was all operating correctly. You're total correct on the positioning of the probe. I simply gauged the old one and sat it in the same position. If the fault still persists I will simply take it out again and move it in ever so slightly further! I'm going to email Truma and see what the supposed set distance is supposed to be unless you've asked this question and know already please Peter? Fun n' games buddy!! Cheers!
@@brucepeter2007 Hey Peter, did you get my second update please buddy? And I also asked if you knew the specified gap between the rectification electrode and the burner? It worked for 3 hours yesterday then I switched it off! Just tried again but the wind is up and not helping matters! I'm going to pull it out again next week and nudge the electrode in a couple of mm and see what happens!! Cheers!
Brilliant video Peter. Thanks for making a comprehensive guide for these units. Now I understand how they work!
Thanks for taking the time to comment Andrew. Regards Peter
Hi Peter
I was attempting to remove my boiler but not sure if I need to remove the outer exaust cover, and could only see 3 screws holding down the boiler itself. But couldn't make any.ore progress.
Thanks benny.
Hi again Peter, thought I’d let you know that I’ve got my Truma working on gas again. Mine was an easy fix in the end. Dust and moisture got into the circuit board so I carefully dried it off with tissues and brushed all the components with a soft paint brush. The moisture was caused by a tiny hole in the cold water pipe feeding the Truma. Hope my comment might help others. Your videos were very helpful so thanks again and regards from New Zealand.😃
Hi Eric. Great news. Water getting onto the circuit board is a definite killer and you were lucky to be able to salvage the circuit board.
I have to say that in the past I have owned two caravans and the latter had a pressurised water system. After I first got the van I noticed during the night that the water pump would come on very briefly! No internet then so after asking around most said you should always turn off the water pump electric but to my mind if you were in the van you didn’t want to do that as I would be back to the old micro switch in each tap head like my first van had...
Quickly found that as long as you have got all air out of the system the tale tale re-pressurising of the system is due to a leak - go look for the leak!
Unfortunately this vans last owner did nothing about any kind of water leak and this meant I ended up doing a seven part video on floor renewal.
I am so pleased my video was of help in a small way as Truma dealers have no interest in servicing old units. As long as people are competent and sensible they should be able to tackle anything within reason.
Thank you for your feedback all the way from NZ.
Stay safe. Regards Peter
Hi Peter This video helped me a lot to fix my gas problem
Many thanks
Chris
So pleased I could help
Regards Peter
Hello Peter I'm on holiday right now and the electric heater is kaput..blows the fuse so i'm relying on the gas heater which takes ages to heat up. So I will be following your excellent videos to strip and repair my Truma Ultrastore. Many thanks for going to the trouble of producing the videos. Regards Pat
Hi Pat. Thanks for taking the time to comment. It sounds like the mains element has gone. I would always recommend to remove the whole unit and do a complete maintenance check and it’s also better as you will ensure any seals are correctly fitted as trying to do anything with the unit in site is almost impossible so it’s not worth trying to cut a corner that can cost you dear later on.
Enjoy the rest of your holiday.
Just getting over Covid here which has not been nice.
Stay safe. Regards Peter
Thanks for the helpful video, which enabled me to get to the burner. In my case I had a faulty solenoid that didn't allow gas through. Once this was fixed the burner would light for a few seconds and then go out. It kept doing this automatically until I switched it off. I then replaced the cracked electrode with a new one, but the burner would still not come on continuously. I then checked the voltage of the battery which read 12.4 volts. I then fully charged the battery and now the burner stays on as expected. Out of curiosity I put the original electrode in and it worked fine. So in summary, the cracked porcelain around the electrode is not a reason for the burner not working. In my case it was a gas supply and voltage issue.
Hi Stephen. The flame failure device only works on micro Amps and is susceptible to dampness so failure in the morning is quite common.
Any split in the porcelain ceramic means replacement. The probe handles flame failure rectification which is reliable - till it fails. Here is an interesting video about the ignition probe which is also susceptible to issues…
th-cam.com/video/IwrYUcx1Sqc/w-d-xo.html
@@brucepeter2007 Thank you for your helpful reply. I was wondering whether I had wasted money on a new electrode, but am now reassured I did the right thing to replace it.
Thank you Peter for doing these videos, it will help me to solve my problem. Never been able to get it to work as it should, always cuts out, with red light. now with a bit of luck im going to be able to get it sorted. Cheers
Hi Mike. No simple way to service this type of heater and you have to bite the bullet and remove it.
The video seems to be helping a lot of people which is great. Lots of other videos on repair on my channel. Thanks for your comment. Regards Peter
The Best 3 part series ive found on the interweb for that exact system.
Grt video well explained hands on with gd video footage, i have the same issue this not going to be fun but with that info much clearer on whats ahead cheers mate.
Hi Nigel. Thank you so much for your reply and like you I found myself in exactly the same position with the manufacturer not interested and suppliers just saying it’s too old. Asking for a service proved a wast of time getting horrendous prices so I had no choice but to take a dive at it.
As you saw I made the video on the fly so it’s “warts and all” but since doing it I am pleased to report it’s helped many others recycle the water heater into a usable bit of working kit again.
It’s always great when i get a reply like yours as it gives me momentum for the next video.
Thank you sir and stay safe.
Regards Peter
Thanks Peter My heater developed a drip from drain pipe on cylinder last season and caravan engineer said it is hairline crack in water cylinder or pin hole. Only drips when at temperature. He wanted just over £1000 to supply and fit new heater or £750 to fit new heater cylinder and element. After watching your videos I now am confident I can fit a new complete heater I can buy for £429.
Just one note - I think there should be a new seal fitted between water cylinder and cylinder housing to ensure no exhaust gases
Hi Dave. Thanks for the reply. - if you have a leak on the main cylinder this can be welded by someone who can do stainless steel. It will save you a fortune.
Incidentally the seal you refer to - never had any type of seal fitted and when it’s tight there are no gaps… Glad I’ve saved you a few Bob.
Regards Peter
@@brucepeter2007 Hi Peter strangely enough I was a sheetmetal worker working mainly with stainless steel for over 40 years. I will strip the old one down and inspect it and If i can find leak I will weld it, pressure test it and if all ok sell it on flee bay
Thanks again for taking time to shoot and post a great video.👍
@@davemozza2550 Dave - I faced the same issue when I was looking for non existent information and the manufacturers never bothered with any other reply than to buy a new unit so I did it myself and filmed it to save others money - glad to help anyone and all I say to you is if you get any issues you try to repair please post a video or still onto TH-cam to help others.
Kind regards - stay safe. Peter
@@brucepeter2007 Will do Peter. Plan to change 1st week March and inspect faulty one week later 👍
@@davemozza2550 Good luck. Regards Peter
Great videos, thank you, I managed to do mine in place without removing it, a bit tight but achievable.
We are struggling to get the same view as you to check the electrodes working. Do we have a different model? It’s US103-21012135. If it’s the same, how do you get the top off so we can take a good look?
I Reckon I have the same problem looking at your great video sir. Here we go!
Hi Douglas. Sorry to hear you have the same issue - but it could be a different problem giving the same red light fault. I can only say that due to there being nothing on TH-cam and dealers / Truma being no help I made the video as I investigate the problem in the hope it could also help others.
As you now know how to strip it out to do a service you can at least investigate and repair as required. Seems to me they were never designed to be serviced and personally I prefer the old water heaters that fixed to the wall - few screws off, remove cover and your in… Only usually the diaphragm that went on them - little cost and dead easy to service.
Anyway I’m hopeful my video will be of assistance to you and I wish you all the best. Regards Peter
@@brucepeter2007 I did take the whole boiler out which in fact was in very good condition for an 18yo. It turned out to a be hard to see blown fuse which like a numpty when replaced I didn't seat the circuit board correctly to line up with the contacts at the bottom Your vid gave the confidence to do the work in an hour or so and saved me probably a lot of cash.
@@douglasmorris8364 Hi Douglas. I’m so very pleased that with the help of my video you felt confident to have a go. I have to admit I was daunted when I fist contemplated the exercise because there were no videos or help that I could find anywhere so I decided to make the video as I went so others could save some cash. Please note I have posted many videos on my site and I also post them on my Facebook group “Mobilvetta Driver52 motorhome group” recently posted about changing fan stat on Ducato 1.9td plus loads of others… Regards Peter
Top video, just on with the the same job so very helpful😀👍👍
Brilliant, I have learnt so much, thank you.
Hi Bruce!
Thanks for taking the time to reply and so pleased my video was of help. I made it because I could get no help regarding fixing my heater so made the videos as I went along to help others. Plenty of other jobs tackled on my motorhome and videos all on my channel if you wish to subscribe.
Stay safe and well- Peter
Again top quality video, Peter
Peter firstly many many thanks for taking the time in doing the videos much appreciated,only owned this 30 year old van a week and had nothing but issues .Im in the process of pulling my unit out ,all water disconnected just need to unscrew gas supply and pull it out .Same red light issue you had .The white electrodes looking through the vent are in a terrible state ,I’m in south UK ,what parts supplier did you get your parts from please ? And what do they call both of the white diodes again please ?
Hi Dirk. Only one part was needed in my case which is the special flame failure electrode and if you pause the image of the part you can read it on a larger screen. It is NOT a diode - there is a very small AC current which changes to half rectified as it travels from the electrode to the burner and this is the flame failure device that’s used on most gas ignition systems. I got the ceramic electrode off eBay.
Excellent videos thanks Peter. I think I have the same problem. Sometimes the heater will work on gas but it takes a lot of tries and a lot of clicks from green to red before it’ll decide to work.😤
Hi Eric. Thanks for posting a reply as it makes it worth while making the videos on my channel. The heater repair has been popular and like you I could find nothing of help out there and that includes Truma. Hope it also allows you to find the issue with yours as it seems a common problem. Regards Peter
Thanks Pete I'm in New Zealand no one wants to know about it down here they just want you to book the whole vehicle in mines on a transit , but I've just got my parts sent from England my main element had gone fixed that now can't get gas to lite ,got new burner ring and gas nozzle so I'm stumped ill pull it out again and check that thing that you just fixed .
Hi Mark. Got two members of my group in NZ so you’re not alone. Ref your issue on gas - do a mock-up out of the van. Gas bottle with regulator and feed the unit with 12v and gas - just make sure you fill the water reservoir with some water.
There is no water pressure sensor so you only need enough water to stop any damage if the burner does light…
The below help is only suggested but if you are in any way unsure then you must find an agent to service it as I would not be responsible for your safety...
Remover the plastic wrap around cover
Turn on the gas at the bottle and check there are no leaks in the gas feed.
Make sure you have a good 12v supply into the unit.
Turn the rotary switch so the indicator dimple is at the 12’o clock position.
You should immediately hear a clicking sound as the spark bridges over the gap from the electrode to the burner - the clicking goes on for about 10 seconds and is easily discernible.
if you do not clearly hear this the electronic ignition side of the main board could be faulty but before you slide that out check the lead that goes from the bottom of the board to the rear of the burner to see if it’s shorting out in any way.
Immediately you turn on the unit the clicking is the first thing you hear followed by a clunk as the gas valve opens - if neither happens the supply board has become faulty and needs a good electronics engineer to sort it out. Cant remember from memory if there is a very small glass fuse on the board 🤔.
So to recap, jury rig the unit turn on the dial listen for ignition clicks then the clunk as the gas valve opens…
If the unit performs as stated above but the ignition spark still keeps going but the flame has clearly lit but then the gas valve clunks shut this is due to the failure of the flame failure device - this could either be the same issue that I had with the split ceramic insulator or it could be a circuit board problem.
The latter results in an electronic engineer who knows his stuff to sort out as the new boards are an arm and a leg job - plus postage to NZ ain’t cheap.
I hope this is helpful to you and I made the videos as there was no help to me from Truma except but a new one or order the parts from a distributor as in short they don’t care about older units - typical of most manufacturers now…
I wish you good luck and I hope you will forgive the depth of my reply as I have no idea of the depth of your experience so forgive the simplicity of my reply as in no way have I wanted to insult your intelligence.
Regards and good luck.
Peter
Hi Peter,, very interesting videos. My problem is that my ultrastore does not work in 240v or gas. I suspect the overheat sensor. Have had the cct board tested which came back with no faults! Can you help? Also where did you find the spare parts? Thanks, Terry
Hi Terry. Interesting - as both are independent systems and it’s unusual for the sensors to go… If you’ve already had the board tested you really have no other option other than remove it to fully investigate / repair.
O the gas side the first thing that should happen when you turn on the dial is the gas valve should open / energise before anything else is sensed. This is a loud thump that can’t be missed as the solenoid energies. If that’s not happening then trace the 12v supply back but - you say the board is fine which is confusing🤔.
Parts are available via tremor direct or eBay but the former are very slow and unhelpful… Can’t offer any other help except you have just got to get the unit out and investigate methodically but that’s down to your own electrical / electronic competence… Good luck anyway. Regards Peter
Hi Peter, Great videos, I have the pleasure of removing my Truma as it has started to leak water everywhere, and it is coming from inside the cover,
Hi Phill. The inner container is stainless so you can get any split welded closed.
Regards Peter
@@brucepeter2007 It is my intention to have it welded, but if not you can just buy the tank. Wish me luck
Hi Phill. Maybe able to pick one up second hand but I would always go for the repair option to be honest.
@@brucepeter2007 I looked on Ebay, a used one is nearly as expensive as a brand new one, and as you say it does not make sense
Best wishes
Hi Peter brilliant video and extremely informative.
Just wondering if the flame sensor could be checked for low resistance using an insulation tester?
I'm having similar problems at the moment but it seem to rectify itself or it did last year !
Hi Sean. I found that the heater ignition was getting very problematic and this was because I suspected the dirt within the cracked porcelain was becoming conductive and the voltages concerned are so low I suspect that the resistance would be hard to measure - I tried every way and backwards but in the end it was “take it out or forget it” and Truma were no help at all. Thanks for the idea and please try it out as you might be lucky buy I tried with both a digital and moving coil resistance meter and I had no luck getting anywhere but you maybe luckier than me.
Sorry I can’t be anymore helpful but good luck with your efforts.
Regards
Peter
Hi Peter
Great video
I have the same problem that the red failure light comes on when heating the water by gas
Now I have an idea what’s involved and how to approach it
Thanks
Paul
Hi Paul. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I suspect you had the same problem I did - no help from Truma and no information on the Internet.
I decided to do it myself and make a video so others could resolve the issue or at least understand what was involved. I’m so pleased to get comments from people who generally have older vans like mine and can’t afford a grand to pay for a dealer to sort it out - if they even want in the next year…
Again thanks for your comment and good luck sorting your heater.
Regards and stay safe. Peter
Thank you Peter I will strip it down and try and get it to work, I can't find any info on them at all lol, ours is free (I think) but just doesn't go up or down got a suspicion its that sensor
Mick
Thanks for the video. I took mine apart ages ago and needed a video to see how to put it back haha. I took mine out of a caravan and it worked then... Lets hope it works now in my campervan conversion... I did notice the 240v wire is completely cut off at the base. Should just work on the 12v and gas.
Also, mine just has a hose coming out of both hot and cold, it doesnt have the truma fitting with the vent off. Wondering if its critical? I do have a drain valve. Isnt the small pipe going out to the side of the wall supposed to vent out?
Hi there and thanks for your reply.
I made the video- as I did it - because I could find nothing on TH-cam which is always my first port of call. Now you’ve replied it makes making it worth while to know it’s helped someone. They are good units but the burner section is NOT made to be serviced at all which is typical of things now. The old type “Ascot” on the wall were sooo easy to service but don’t look good hanging on the wall. Modern design could get over the issue of Co2 as the boiler could be the same type of flu/air intake of modern boilers... But alas it’s all made for limited life and after that it’s a throw away. Sad.
I hope you get your unit to go into your van OK and I would advise an pre installation try at first to save you cutting vent holes.
Stay safe. Regards Peter
@@brucepeter2007 SO i had my lpg tank filled up for the first time and as predicted the bloody thing is not working! I can hear the ignition it goes green then after 5 seconds or so the red light comes on... I tried for a few minutes, maybe air in the pipes. I REEEEALLLY dont want to take it out... There is no space to move it back to take it out, the flue is inside the campervan insulation wall, and behind the boiler is a water tank now... Hope I can open it without taking it out if needed. ARGH :)
Hi Peter. Thanks for your great video. I have a 21yr old Truma water heater which was working fine, but recently it gives me the red light and no hot water. Do you by chance have the exact part number for the porcelain electrode you replaced? I'm going to try and source one here in NZ. Cheers Paul
Hi NZ. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
First I must point out that you should be competent at working with a multimeter, water and gas before you proceed.
If your happy to proceed then all the information can be seen in the video...
Firstly the issue with showing the red light on the control panel could be down to a number of factors but the good news is - as shown in my video - the faulty item can be clearly seen on inspection. But don’t start pulling everything out till you have checked the obvious...
First check is confirm power is getting to the heater - ensure the power gets to the unit then you can check the fuse on the circuit board is not blown.
If you have power at the unit you can then see if you get the heavy thump as the units gas valve opens together with the HT clicking which ignites the gas - if there is no ignition the control board will shut down the gas valve and you will get the red light.Also please check you have removed the external vent cover and that you have no obstructions to a good air flow into the burner area and also no obstructions to the exhaust as this also turns the unit off. Hope this helps you.
@@brucepeter2007 PS I'm very competent in doing all kinds of repair work myself. I hire out 3 English caravans here in NZ and there are always issues I have to deal with. Doing the work myself saves a heap of money.
Thank you. It looks like I have the exact same problem
Glad to help - nothing around on TH-cam when I looked which was why I dod the video. Hope it sorts your problem. Regards Peter
Hi Peter this is a great video ,it has helped me a great deal I think I have the same issue a have removed my unit and stripped it down , can I ask were I can get the parts from please
Hi George. About 4 minutes in on this video I show the part needed to be ordered - just press pause and you can clearly get the Truma part number then order up off eBay. - I did this and that’s why I posted on the video OUCH at the price. A normal boiler probe doing the same job is about a tenner but with a Motorhome it’s a fortune. No choice but to pay for the part.
Good luck glad my video helped.
Regards Peter
Thanks for your help all try that ,all keep you up dated,anything campervan related the price goes up ,your videos are a great help
Great Work Peter this might help me in the future as i just got a 2006 Swift thanks :)
Hi there. Thanks for taking the time to comment - always nice when someone takes the time to reply. I make the videos to help others which I feel is the great legacy of TH-cam. Regards Peter
Thank you Peter, we are having exactly the same problem on our mobilvetta motorhome, going to tackle it when the weather is better, you don't know anything about the auto up and down step do you ?
Hi Mic.
Step was one of first things I did but unfortunately I did not take pictures or make a video. First take off step cover and you will find the stupid metal rotation bar has rusted solid. I could not free mine no matter what I tried - even using a heat source. Due to this I took the whole unit out which was fun. It’s just a windscreen wiper mechanism in truth so not hard to work with... Regards Peter
@@brucepeter2007 Hi Peter as I say thank you for replying, I will have a go at it when the weather is a bit better, I don't know if its that sensor, but great video's ours is a top driver 61 and trying to get info well u know lol
After I refurbed the unit I removed the sensor unit as it had failed because the step mechanism had seized up. Just listen to the steps motor and as soon as it labours turn off the switch. Works for me.
@Ian Vanoorschot Hi there. The sealant I used was Dow Corning clear which is totally satisfactory around the outer part of the exterior vent as a seal between the van body and the heater,. Stay safe, stay warm.
Regards Peter
Hi, Peter, l have same motorhome, my boiler does doing same fault, where did you buy electro from, or part no, Thanks
Hi Mev- got the electrode from eBay ref 70000-56200. Truma really knock you as the same sort of thing for a normal gas boiler is only about £7 but Truma stitch you up good but no choice - hence the price!
@@brucepeter2007, Hi,Peter, l paid nearly £50, no luck, l just noticed my boiler spark electro no clicking nothing, gas valve open, l managed to spark manually with long kitchen lighter, what do you think? Spark Electrode or spark sensor or module on motherboard, mother board looks new but l don't want to spend a lot of money, Thanks for reply
@@mevdee2008 Hi there - all I can say is you need to tackle it methodically and start with your fuses then check power is getting to the unit and the board. Your description is very vague and unhelpful. If your getting no ignition spark or clicking sound suspect the board which are expensive. The electrode in the flame does not prevent gas ignition it just prevents the gas from flowing by shutting off the gas valve…
@@brucepeter2007 Thanks for reply, my controller 50 and 70 degrees showing, power there, when l switch on gas valve opens and 10 second later shut off itself red light on continuously, but spark not ticking, l ordered spark electrode cost me £30 hopefully will fix the problem, fuse is OK, Thanks again
@@mevdee2008 That’s a bit more information so I would suspect it could be the HT generator on the main board as you should be able to hear the ticking of the spark - and you say you can’t…
Nice One Pete, just got our first Motorhome tent van trailer before, great to know its is a serviceable unit, any chance you can put the details of the part and a link to the supplier for all to see. Mick the Plumber.
Hi Mick. Thanks for the reply. Water and electrics don’t mix and you was lucky the water didn’t do any other permanent damage and so pleased you found the problem…
In my video number three the cost was £40 mentioned at 1:10 minutes and the part number (70000-56200) was also shown in video number three at 4:19 minutes. I got it from an eBay supplier. I have to say that although it’s serviceable Truma don’t make it easy and the cost of parts -especially if you have to replace the circuit board is horrendously expensive.
I have to say I prefer the good old “on the wall” water heater as they were so simple to service and went on forever… These newer units aren’t an improvement they are just made to work and throw away - Just my personal view.
@@brucepeter2007 Cheers I had one of the old on-the-wall heaters and I moved it 5 times to different locations, wonder if I could get one of them if my traumatically priced heater gives up cheers but you have inspired me to know its doable.
@@MrMickrobo stay safe. Regards Peter
Thanks Peter. Pretty sure this is the problem I have. From your experience, do you think if I took the plastic top off, undid the cylinder clamp and removed it, I could change the device without actually getting the whole unit out? I appreciate you removed the unit, but once you recognised the problem, do you think there is any reason it cannot be fixed just from above? Would appreciate your advice.
Stuart
Hi Stuart. I personally would not recommend doing it the way you suggest because you could end up causing damage. To get to the burner cover clips and other bits off you need to get at angles you can’t get to if you leave the unit in-situ. Your only talking about the extra removal of 3 screws for the base unit and the removal of the sealant around the outside exhaust... Together with other points you can see in my video I could not remove the burner screws to replace the insulator anyway due to all the rust so I had to drill the screw out and use a new self tap screw - I can’t see how I could have done this if I had tried to do the repair with the heater in-situ. Good luck if you want to do it that way but I can’t endorse it knowing what was involved to repair mine.
You could well end up in a minefield of issues and costing you a new heater...
Regards Peter
Hi Stuart. I personally would not recommend doing it the way you suggest because you could end up causing damage. To get to the burner cover clips and other bits off you need to get at angles you can’t get to if you leave the unit in-situ. Your only talking about the extra removal of 3 screws for the base unit and the removal of the sealant around the outside exhaust... Together with other points you can see in my video I could not remove the burner screws to replace the insulator anyway due to all the rust so I had to drill the screw out and use a new self tap screw - I can’t see how I could have done this if I had tried to do the repair with the heater in-situ. Good luck if you want to do it that way but I can’t endorse it knowing what was involved to repair mine.
You could well end up in a minefield of issues and costing you a new heater...
Regards Peter
Hi Stuart. I personally would not recommend doing it the way you suggest because you could end up causing damage. To get to the burner cover clips and other bits off you need to get at angles you can’t get to if you leave the unit in-situ. Your only talking about the extra removal of 3 screws for the base unit and the removal of the sealant around the outside exhaust... Together with other points you can see in my video I could not remove the burner screws to replace the insulator anyway due to all the rust so I had to drill the screw out and use a new self tap screw - I can’t see how I could have done this if I had tried to do the repair with the heater in-situ. Good luck if you want to do it that way but I can’t endorse it knowing what was involved to repair mine.
You could well end up in a minefield of issues and costing you a new heater...
Regards Peter
Hi Stuart. I personally would not recommend doing it the way you suggest because you could end up causing damage. To get to the burner cover clips and other bits off you need to get at angles you can’t get to if you leave the unit in-situ. Your only talking about the extra removal of 3 screws for the base unit and the removal of the sealant around the outside exhaust... Together with other points you can see in my video I could not remove the burner screws to replace the insulator anyway due to all the rust so I had to drill the screw out and use a new self tap screw - I can’t see how I could have done this if I had tried to do the repair with the heater in-situ. Good luck if you want to do it that way but I can’t endorse it knowing what was involved to repair mine.
You could well end up in a minefield of issues and costing you a new heater...
Regards Peter
Hi Stuart. I personally would not recommend doing it the way you suggest because you could end up causing damage. To get to the burner cover clips and other bits off you need to get at angles you can’t get to if you leave the unit in-situ. Your only talking about the extra removal of 3 screws for the base unit and the removal of the sealant around the outside exhaust... Together with other points you can see in my video I could not remove the burner screws to replace the insulator anyway due to all the rust so I had to drill the screw out and use a new self tap screw - I can’t see how I could have done this if I had tried to do the repair with the heater in-situ. Good luck if you want to do it that way but I can’t endorse it knowing what was involved to repair mine.
You could well end up in a minefield of issues and costing you a new heater...
Regards Peter
Good vid mate. I think I have the same problem will find out soon
Thank a million
Your very welcome.
Regards and stay safe.
Peter
I think we have this exact problem, can anyone please tell me the part number to order? I have just rung Truma and they just told me to throw it away
Hi Gaynor.
All the information is in my video and you can see the part number on video 3 @ 4:20.
Make sure you look at every video and you won’t get any issues. I have included every bit of information I could. Don’t forget to pause at any interesting point and you can then zoom in to see more detail... Regards Peter
Hi,
Nice video!!!
How long it took you from start to finish?
Thanks
Took a full afternoon once I had the part.
Thanks Peter for quick response 👍
@@Darelislt Your welcome.