So as you see there are so many possibilities [TO SPEND TONS OF MONEY] and the options are only ever going to grow. Hello GAS (gear acquisition syndrome) my old friend, I've come to talk with you again :D
Glad it helped! LDP trucks tend to be narrower in width for 2 reasons: 1. Narrower trucks make it easier to push the board without hitting the wheel by accident. 2. The truck’s natural pumping frequency is directly affected by the width. To explain further, wider trucks have a wider turning radius to make so the truck requires more time to complete the S-curve when pumping. You can somewhat control the frequency by wiggling the truck instead of pumping deep, but it still turns at its natural frequency based on the size of the physical turning circle per pump cycle. So if you narrow down the front trucks, the turning circle is smaller and requires less distance to complete the S-curve. Which means less time to complete the cycle & that results in more frequency to gain speed. Leverage: Wider trucks have higher leverage, which makes the pump broader and more stable. It would be a smoother S-curve to pump but you’ll need slightly slower, more forceful movements to get the speed during the pump. Narrower trucks do the opposite. Less leverage and quicker pumping frequencies. Less force required overall too because the truck naturally wants to “come back” sooner. Tuning: U can use softer bushings on narrower trucks because of the change in leverage. I generally tune for the “frequency” of the setup. I would tune my setups in this sequence: 1. Decide what sort of wheels you’re gonna use. Center set wheels are fairly neutral in most cases. Offset wheels provide some rebound of its own as you pump. Also, consider how much width your wheels are adding to your truck. 2. Establish the overall width by shifting the wheels to a narrower position on the truck 1-2mm at a time until it feels natural for your pump style. (Start with softer bushings first and use your pumping technique to overcome the rebound. The goal is to find the frequency that works.) This also helps you pinpoint any potential wheel-bite issues early. Check before you pump! 3. Bring up the bushing duro accordingly. This takes experience so it’s a little hard to explain what to do for this part. Try out different formulas & see what works for you!
Thanks! For DKP bushing setups, I tend to put something softer and more “forgiving” formulas at the bottom bushing. Something like a Riptide 70/75a APS or Seismic 73a, might be good. ideally tall barrels for more urethane to give too. Because this side of the kingpin is almost directly in line with the axles so they need to be more forgiving. For the top bushing, it sits further up from the hanger and that gives you a lot of hanger leverage to the bushing seat. To maximise this slot, I would try to use a stronger shape like fatcones or even magnums/chubbies/kegs. And ideally a formula that is high rebound such as Riptide Krank or Venom SHR. Tall barrel can work here too, if you use a cupped washer. What trucks are you on currently?
Great explanation! Especially the part on tails. Questions: why bracket boards over drop decks? And would you recommend bracket boards to commute on Singapore pavements? Drain grates, tiled flooring, cracks, leaf litter, TGSIs, up and down slopes etc. Thanks!
Thanks for this! Drop decks usually have a much fatter neck where the truck sits because it’s made of wood. Brackets boards replace the neck of drop decks with metal brackets, which not only strengthens the setup, but is also narrower which allows clearance for bigger wheels. Usually drop decks allow for wheels up to 85mm without too much compromise, but with brackets we can easily fit beyond 100mm and still be completely bite free. For drain gates, cracks, and anything that a skater would hate, my go-to wheel is the Dad Bods. Bigger is better in this case!
Thanks for the video! Which would you prefer for pumping focused rear between 0deg rear vs negative deg rear integrated trucks? Also, what is the feel and performance difference between these two? I do have a insania on a wiggler myself.. now I’m curious to learn more.
If it's purely for pumping on a relatively straight route, the negative rear would be my go to. Your turning radius will suck but you gain more forward movement in your pumping. The difference between 0º and negative is that the higher your rear angle, the longer the "virtual wheelbase" will become. Making your physical deck become the "front half" of the setup. The best way I can think of to describe how the setup will ride with a -35º rear is to imagine your Insania being mounted 4 feet further back from where it is now. Another thing to note is that the lower your rear angle, the higher your "torque" for each pump. Meaning, with a 0º rear, you can probably pump better uphill or towards headwind as compared to a negative rear, but a negative rear would have better top speed (upwards of 30kph). If you're getting an integrated rear like the iRKP or Gizmos, they're both fixed at -35º and are great at 20kph or above speeds. If you have a spare 45º RKP sitting around, u can flip it on an adjustable bracket to make this happen with arguably better power transfer than integrated counterparts. Although my favourite tail on the Wiggler is still an Insania mounted from the top of the deck with a 10º wedge. You'll need a really long hardware (maybe 2" or more) to make that happen but it's the cheapest method to get started based on what you have on hand. Because negative angles "increase the wheelbase" of your setup, there's no need to use a longer deck anymore. In fact, shorter setups do well with negative rears because your feet are closer to the rear wheels, and that significantly affects your propulsion. Even if your physical wheelbase matches the virtual wheelbase of a negative, on a physical setup your back feet will be so far from the rear wheels that it'll be less efficient, and that is before taking flex into account.
Thank you for such great info. I tried the negative rear, it's def different but pretty cool on a short deck. Question. My current set up is Bossa Z25 light flex with bomb gyoerpump new brackets at 58 DT poppy front and 26 seismic rear. I like a lively set up. What else can you suggest to make it pump better at this angles. Bushings are 80/75 APS front with megawatts wheels. Thanks in advance!
Glad the video helped you! Based on your setup, your front truck should perform great if you’re within 60-80kg. I assume your 80a is a fatcone and is on the board side & 75a is a barrel on the road side because that’s a great configuration for the DT Poppy that I would be happy with too. I’m not familiar with your rear truck so I don’t have much to say here. I assume it’s -26° and this is good for a short setup to have a similar turning radius to a longer setup (something like a Wiggler). In general, here are some things that I would take note of if I want a lively setup: 1. Narrower width on the rear trucks. This helps the rear truck change direction better than the front trucks and it would tighten up your pumps. 2. Whatever your rear truck width is, make the front truck slightly wider. This helps the front truck “lead” the rear truck. But be careful about this because if you go too wide, you’ll start to affect the frequency of your pumping because you’re increasing the amplitude of your rail-rail pump distance. Which means even if you use a higher rebound/higher duro bushing, the frequency of your pumps would still be in sync with the width and your truck will only feel good when the bushing moves in sync with that frequency. In your case, 143mm on the poppy is actually quite good so you can safely max out your width and be happy with it, and most likely is required with the bracket to prevent wheel bite anyways. 3. Try new wheels that have more offset. Orangatang Caguamas or Boa Hatchlings are great. These wheels pair pretty well with the DT Poppy. The rebound from the wheels makes the setup more lively to me. 4. I’m not sure if this would be more “lively” but I would increase the rear truck to -35° or higher if I want more speed. This might make the truck a little stiffer because the angle is increased so you’ll want to adjust the bushings accordingly. I would start with a 84a Krank or 83a SHR for the rear truck. Actually any higher rebound bushing for the rear is what I would start with. 5. If your rear truck angles are fixed at -26° then I would lower your front truck angle instead. With what you have, I would try 55° right away and maybe change the 75a bushing to a 80a APS because of the decreased angle. Hope this helps!
@@SethOnWheels I replaced fat cone with just a cone. I weight around 70-75 kg. Set the length of the DT truck to 131. I played with 137 and 143 but 131 feels good. It helps that the board is flexy.
@@captureinstyleoh! That’s super soft and I didn’t expect it to be a cone. I’m wondering if your rear truck is leading the setup in this case? The front truck will require softer bushings if the rear truck is tight. For negative rear configurations, we try to balance out the stiffness between both trucks. 60:40 in stiffness, 60% being the rear. The higher the rear angle is relative to the front, the closer the ratio should be to 50:50. Also, have u tried 70a barrels instead of a higher duro cone yet?
@@SethOnWheels I have 80/75 APS cones in front and I'm using seismic aeon 30' in the back it comes with 90A bushings. I set up rear at +26' what do you think? Should I try to change anything? Any suggestions?
Hmmm if you’re trying to pump faster then I would start from 0° at the rear or even run the rear truck at a low negative angle between 10-20°. The other thing is to use barrels instead of cones for the DT trucks for better rebound. The rear trucks might be a little stiff at 90a if your front trucks are cones. So the summary would be: Lower ur truck angle closer to 0° or even go for a low negative angle -10 to -20° Lower the duro of rear trucks and change the front truck bushings to the barrel versions. With a positive rear angle you’re carving more during the pump and that’s good for lower speed pumping. If you want to go faster then the rear angles should be much lower than +26°
Nice video, good job man! I have a question, what would be a best setup for a high speed board for me? (I’m 193cm, 110kg). What should I consider as far as board length and front and rear side combo? Would torsion truck work better? Thanks
Appreciate it! With your height and weight, I would recommend first a deck that offers a stiffer option like a Flex1 Rocket Exodus or Hard Zenit BB+. These are mid length setups and should support your wider stance well. These decks should serve you well! Try to avoid long decks because they can get flexy and I wouldn't recommend starting with them unless there's a specific preference. To put your height and weight to your advantage, I would say TTA for your first rear truck because of the great rebound that most of us are too light to make use of. Alternatively, any 0º truck in the rear would be good too because of their stiffness. An Insania with 93/96a Riptide Kranks would be best if you're going down this path. The upgrade path for your setup would be the negative rears which I will totally recommend once you get comfortable pushing above 20kph because that's where the fun starts for negative rears. As for front trucks, stick with forks (maybe an S-Fork Drop 1) because they're stiffer and will be able to support you better. I would go for a RKP truck that have good kingpin support like Valkyrie 3.5 Slalom (well supported kingpin) or CGB Gizmos (DKP truck) instead of a traditional single kingpin RKP like a DT Poppy. I will also try and avoid TKP trucks if you're above 100kg because they can be a little twitchy. You'll most definitely need a bushing upgrade too. 90a or above Riptide Kranks on the front truck might do the trick for you because you're tall and that's great for pump power. The TTA should work great out of the box for anyone. Hope this helps!
Yeah! ThaneLife. That's where you can buy a complete LDP from. But before you do that, visit us at the National Stadium on Tuesday nights to learn more about LDPs and better yet, try out more than 10 different setups in a single night!
Hey saw you riding the lepsk8 tail, just got the lepsk8 ldp complete and it feels fun to use. I (58kg) have just 2 issues with it, when pumping hard I have a lot of trouble with rear wheel lift, and I feel like the stock bushing setup is a little to tough at the front (rkp) integrated truck. What bushing setup would you recommend? Just looking for somme advice before I just start buying random bushings😂
Hey congrats on your new setup! With your weight range I would recommend: 80a Venom SHR barrels on the board side, and the 75a Riptide APS barrel on the roadside for your front truck. If you can’t obtain 80a Venom SHRs then Riptide APS is fine as the second best option. I’m not sure if your front trucks are using tall bushings so you should probably check with Lepsk8 on this! Seismic 73a barrels (drilled) for the tail and narrower axle option. You’ll have to squeeze the bushings in but this is relatively easy! You can get drilled bushings as an added option from ThaneLife if you don’t have a countersunk drill bit. Hope this helps!
That’s actually great news that they aren’t tall! Remember to drill all the bushings up. Including the front ones. Hope this configuration works for u as a starting point :)
Got them in, ended up using a dremel to make them fit (the drill bit kept getting just squished in them haha). Just got the first sesh in and it feels a lot better, softer at the front without bottoming out to quick and the back is a lot more stable and doesn’t come off the ground nearly as much. Stil have a while to go before I can sustain the pump/wiggle for longer at speed but with this setup I know I’m in the right direction. Thanks for the help💪
TTX is probably the safer option. TTA is potentially faster but also requires more speed. Personally I consider the TTA more sprinty & TTX more consistent.
Excellent video! Lots of information here! Nicely done
Much appreciated!
Great methodic video!
謝謝你的影片讓我學到很多，有中文字幕真是太棒了。
i’m new to this sport and I learned so much from this video. The close up camera angles really helped me understand!
Glad it helped! 😄
What a great overview seth! Love the camera angles. Especially on the torsion tail vs s tail! Very cool to see
Thanks Lena! Yeah those videos were great! Hopefully I find better ways to make them more obvious in future too.
So as you see there are so many possibilities [TO SPEND TONS OF MONEY] and the options are only ever going to grow. Hello GAS (gear acquisition syndrome) my old friend, I've come to talk with you again :D
Very informative and nicely shot! Hope to see more
Glad you liked it! There’s a good chunk of iPhone footage in the video too 😉
Great info and very clear, thank you
Phenomenal Video, really good delivery and filming!
Keep going man, looking forward to it!
Thanks Michael! Hopefully my future videos wont be as challenging to make as this one 😂
awesome video, dude!
Great breakdown, la! I've never been on the groovy Pantheons I see at Ultraskate, but they are intriguing!
Thanx🙂 this video answers many of my questions.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for this really good video!
To me this is the perfect introduction!
I would be interested why LDP trucks seem to be rather narrow in width?
Glad it helped!
LDP trucks tend to be narrower in width for 2 reasons:
1. Narrower trucks make it easier to push the board without hitting the wheel by accident.
2. The truck’s natural pumping frequency is directly affected by the width.
To explain further, wider trucks have a wider turning radius to make so the truck requires more time to complete the S-curve when pumping. You can somewhat control the frequency by wiggling the truck instead of pumping deep, but it still turns at its natural frequency based on the size of the physical turning circle per pump cycle.
So if you narrow down the front trucks, the turning circle is smaller and requires less distance to complete the S-curve. Which means less time to complete the cycle & that results in more frequency to gain speed.
Leverage:
Wider trucks have higher leverage, which makes the pump broader and more stable. It would be a smoother S-curve to pump but you’ll need slightly slower, more forceful movements to get the speed during the pump.
Narrower trucks do the opposite. Less leverage and quicker pumping frequencies. Less force required overall too because the truck naturally wants to “come back” sooner.
Tuning:
U can use softer bushings on narrower trucks because of the change in leverage. I generally tune for the “frequency” of the setup.
I would tune my setups in this sequence:
1. Decide what sort of wheels you’re gonna use. Center set wheels are fairly neutral in most cases. Offset wheels provide some rebound of its own as you pump. Also, consider how much width your wheels are adding to your truck.
2. Establish the overall width by shifting the wheels to a narrower position on the truck 1-2mm at a time until it feels natural for your pump style. (Start with softer bushings first and use your pumping technique to overcome the rebound. The goal is to find the frequency that works.) This also helps you pinpoint any potential wheel-bite issues early. Check before you pump!
3. Bring up the bushing duro accordingly. This takes experience so it’s a little hard to explain what to do for this part. Try out different formulas & see what works for you!
Looking good! Can you do a video about DKP bushing setups? There are so many possibilities, it's a bit overwhelming.
Thanks!
For DKP bushing setups, I tend to put something softer and more “forgiving” formulas at the bottom bushing.
Something like a Riptide 70/75a APS or Seismic 73a, might be good. ideally tall barrels for more urethane to give too. Because this side of the kingpin is almost directly in line with the axles so they need to be more forgiving.
For the top bushing, it sits further up from the hanger and that gives you a lot of hanger leverage to the bushing seat. To maximise this slot, I would try to use a stronger shape like fatcones or even magnums/chubbies/kegs. And ideally a formula that is high rebound such as Riptide Krank or Venom SHR. Tall barrel can work here too, if you use a cupped washer.
What trucks are you on currently?
Looking great Seth!
Great explanation! Especially the part on tails.
Questions: why bracket boards over drop decks? And would you recommend bracket boards to commute on Singapore pavements? Drain grates, tiled flooring, cracks, leaf litter, TGSIs, up and down slopes etc. Thanks!
Thanks for this! Drop decks usually have a much fatter neck where the truck sits because it’s made of wood. Brackets boards replace the neck of drop decks with metal brackets, which not only strengthens the setup, but is also narrower which allows clearance for bigger wheels. Usually drop decks allow for wheels up to 85mm without too much compromise, but with brackets we can easily fit beyond 100mm and still be completely bite free. For drain gates, cracks, and anything that a skater would hate, my go-to wheel is the Dad Bods. Bigger is better in this case!
Very good video!! 👍😎
Wow great LDP video thanks
Awesome & Thanks Sir :)
*Yewwh!*
🤙🏽⚡️🤟🏽⚡️👌🏽
Awesome stuff Seth!
Great & descriptive video especially on the torsion tail during action !
So which is your best pumping setup
Appreciate it!
Right now it’s my Procyon Banana with a -28° rear & 55° front truck setup. Super low to the ground and runs in blue Dad Bods!
Thanks for the video!
Which would you prefer for pumping focused rear between 0deg rear vs negative deg rear integrated trucks?
Also, what is the feel and performance difference between these two?
I do have a insania on a wiggler myself.. now I’m curious to learn more.
If it's purely for pumping on a relatively straight route, the negative rear would be my go to.
Your turning radius will suck but you gain more forward movement in your pumping.
The difference between 0º and negative is that the higher your rear angle, the longer the "virtual wheelbase" will become. Making your physical deck become the "front half" of the setup. The best way I can think of to describe how the setup will ride with a -35º rear is to imagine your Insania being mounted 4 feet further back from where it is now.
Another thing to note is that the lower your rear angle, the higher your "torque" for each pump.
Meaning, with a 0º rear, you can probably pump better uphill or towards headwind as compared to a negative rear, but a negative rear would have better top speed (upwards of 30kph).
If you're getting an integrated rear like the iRKP or Gizmos, they're both fixed at -35º and are great at 20kph or above speeds.
If you have a spare 45º RKP sitting around, u can flip it on an adjustable bracket to make this happen with arguably better power transfer than integrated counterparts.
Although my favourite tail on the Wiggler is still an Insania mounted from the top of the deck with a 10º wedge. You'll need a really long hardware (maybe 2" or more) to make that happen but it's the cheapest method to get started based on what you have on hand.
Because negative angles "increase the wheelbase" of your setup, there's no need to use a longer deck anymore. In fact, shorter setups do well with negative rears because your feet are closer to the rear wheels, and that significantly affects your propulsion. Even if your physical wheelbase matches the virtual wheelbase of a negative, on a physical setup your back feet will be so far from the rear wheels that it'll be less efficient, and that is before taking flex into account.
Thank you for such great info. I tried the negative rear, it's def different but pretty cool on a short deck. Question. My current set up is Bossa Z25 light flex with bomb gyoerpump new brackets at 58 DT poppy front and 26 seismic rear. I like a lively set up. What else can you suggest to make it pump better at this angles. Bushings are 80/75 APS front with megawatts wheels. Thanks in advance!
Glad the video helped you!
Based on your setup, your front truck should perform great if you’re within 60-80kg. I assume your 80a is a fatcone and is on the board side & 75a is a barrel on the road side because that’s a great configuration for the DT Poppy that I would be happy with too.
I’m not familiar with your rear truck so I don’t have much to say here. I assume it’s -26° and this is good for a short setup to have a similar turning radius to a longer setup (something like a Wiggler).
In general, here are some things that I would take note of if I want a lively setup:
1. Narrower width on the rear trucks. This helps the rear truck change direction better than the front trucks and it would tighten up your pumps.
2. Whatever your rear truck width is, make the front truck slightly wider. This helps the front truck “lead” the rear truck. But be careful about this because if you go too wide, you’ll start to affect the frequency of your pumping because you’re increasing the amplitude of your rail-rail pump distance. Which means even if you use a higher rebound/higher duro bushing, the frequency of your pumps would still be in sync with the width and your truck will only feel good when the bushing moves in sync with that frequency. In your case, 143mm on the poppy is actually quite good so you can safely max out your width and be happy with it, and most likely is required with the bracket to prevent wheel bite anyways.
3. Try new wheels that have more offset. Orangatang Caguamas or Boa Hatchlings are great. These wheels pair pretty well with the DT Poppy. The rebound from the wheels makes the setup more lively to me.
4. I’m not sure if this would be more “lively” but I would increase the rear truck to -35° or higher if I want more speed. This might make the truck a little stiffer because the angle is increased so you’ll want to adjust the bushings accordingly. I would start with a 84a Krank or 83a SHR for the rear truck. Actually any higher rebound bushing for the rear is what I would start with.
5. If your rear truck angles are fixed at -26° then I would lower your front truck angle instead. With what you have, I would try 55° right away and maybe change the 75a bushing to a 80a APS because of the decreased angle.
Hope this helps!
@@SethOnWheels I replaced fat cone with just a cone. I weight around 70-75 kg. Set the length of the DT truck to 131. I played with 137 and 143 but 131 feels good. It helps that the board is flexy.
@@captureinstyleoh! That’s super soft and I didn’t expect it to be a cone. I’m wondering if your rear truck is leading the setup in this case?
The front truck will require softer bushings if the rear truck is tight. For negative rear configurations, we try to balance out the stiffness between both trucks. 60:40 in stiffness, 60% being the rear. The higher the rear angle is relative to the front, the closer the ratio should be to 50:50.
Also, have u tried 70a barrels instead of a higher duro cone yet?
@@SethOnWheels I have 80/75 APS cones in front and I'm using seismic aeon 30' in the back it comes with 90A bushings. I set up rear at +26' what do you think? Should I try to change anything? Any suggestions?
Hmmm if you’re trying to pump faster then I would start from 0° at the rear or even run the rear truck at a low negative angle between 10-20°.
The other thing is to use barrels instead of cones for the DT trucks for better rebound.
The rear trucks might be a little stiff at 90a if your front trucks are cones.
So the summary would be:
Lower ur truck angle closer to 0° or even go for a low negative angle -10 to -20°
Lower the duro of rear trucks and change the front truck bushings to the barrel versions.
With a positive rear angle you’re carving more during the pump and that’s good for lower speed pumping. If you want to go faster then the rear angles should be much lower than +26°
Nice video, good job man! I have a question, what would be a best setup for a high speed board for me? (I’m 193cm, 110kg). What should I consider as far as board length and front and rear side combo? Would torsion truck work better? Thanks
Appreciate it!
With your height and weight, I would recommend first a deck that offers a stiffer option like a Flex1 Rocket Exodus or Hard Zenit BB+. These are mid length setups and should support your wider stance well. These decks should serve you well! Try to avoid long decks because they can get flexy and I wouldn't recommend starting with them unless there's a specific preference.
To put your height and weight to your advantage, I would say TTA for your first rear truck because of the great rebound that most of us are too light to make use of. Alternatively, any 0º truck in the rear would be good too because of their stiffness. An Insania with 93/96a Riptide Kranks would be best if you're going down this path.
The upgrade path for your setup would be the negative rears which I will totally recommend once you get comfortable pushing above 20kph because that's where the fun starts for negative rears.
As for front trucks, stick with forks (maybe an S-Fork Drop 1) because they're stiffer and will be able to support you better. I would go for a RKP truck that have good kingpin support like Valkyrie 3.5 Slalom (well supported kingpin) or CGB Gizmos (DKP truck) instead of a traditional single kingpin RKP like a DT Poppy. I will also try and avoid TKP trucks if you're above 100kg because they can be a little twitchy.
You'll most definitely need a bushing upgrade too. 90a or above Riptide Kranks on the front truck might do the trick for you because you're tall and that's great for pump power. The TTA should work great out of the box for anyone.
Hope this helps!
Awsome ❤
Hi! Any shops that you would recommended getting the decks and parts in Singapore?
Yeah! ThaneLife. That's where you can buy a complete LDP from.
But before you do that, visit us at the National Stadium on Tuesday nights to learn more about LDPs and better yet, try out more than 10 different setups in a single night!
Hey saw you riding the lepsk8 tail, just got the lepsk8 ldp complete and it feels fun to use. I (58kg) have just 2 issues with it, when pumping hard I have a lot of trouble with rear wheel lift, and I feel like the stock bushing setup is a little to tough at the front (rkp) integrated truck. What bushing setup would you recommend? Just looking for somme advice before I just start buying random bushings😂
Hey congrats on your new setup!
With your weight range I would recommend:
80a Venom SHR barrels on the board side, and the 75a Riptide APS barrel on the roadside for your front truck. If you can’t obtain 80a Venom SHRs then Riptide APS is fine as the second best option. I’m not sure if your front trucks are using tall bushings so you should probably check with Lepsk8 on this!
Seismic 73a barrels (drilled) for the tail and narrower axle option. You’ll have to squeeze the bushings in but this is relatively easy!
You can get drilled bushings as an added option from ThaneLife if you don’t have a countersunk drill bit.
Hope this helps!
@@SethOnWheelsdope i'l check the front bushings to see what's up, thanks for the advice 💪
Checked with lepsk8, non compatible with tall barrel bushings so i'l go for the riptide aps 80a bs and 75a rs for now.
That’s actually great news that they aren’t tall! Remember to drill all the bushings up. Including the front ones. Hope this configuration works for u as a starting point :)
Got them in, ended up using a dremel to make them fit (the drill bit kept getting just squished in them haha).
Just got the first sesh in and it feels a lot better, softer at the front without bottoming out to quick and the back is a lot more stable and doesn’t come off the ground nearly as much. Stil have a while to go before I can sustain the pump/wiggle for longer at speed but with this setup I know I’m in the right direction. Thanks for the help💪
I have a gbomb 26x with brackets but im thinking of getting a ttx or tta with sdf front what u think is better for pumping?
TTX is probably the safer option. TTA is potentially faster but also requires more speed. Personally I consider the TTA more sprinty & TTX more consistent.
Wow
Where i live is alot of hills. What is best setup for uphill doing LDP ?
Where do you buy the fork brackets?
Either ThaneLife for 13° forks or SevenSuns for 10° forks. There are other places but these are the ones off the top of my head
Dare Keys
Aileen Lake
First!
MacGyver Oval
Elliot Plains
Second!
What is that potato board called? I kinda want one
It’s a MelonenKacke Procyon Banana & Procyon Speed. Both decks have a custom graphic!
Fork