Great video man! Super useful info, for everyone who hasn't messed around with dewedging and wedging please do! Once I started dewedging my back truck and running a 50* in the front I barely touched any of my other Sym setups. Ive found I really prefer that slightly more dead rear truck as it just provides a little bit of comfort once I start hitting some speeds, and as I really dont skate switch, havent seen many downsides at all. Awesome job Abuga been killing it with the video guides lately.
Yeah I saw your video on it! Thought it was pretty good. You should really experiment with split angles too. I think some splits would be/feel super nice on your electric board. Give it a try if you're up to experiment!
Watched before and didn’t understand, but now I do after tinkering around with trucks. Looking forward to trying these set ups. Thanks as always for the invaluable knowledge & experience.
Dude THE best video explaining angles and outcomes and how bushings are affected that I’ve ever seen. I had a rudimentary understanding before this, but I’m about ready to print some angled risers now after watching this! Thank you!
Damn dude, you really explained it thoroughly and well but still straight to the point. Serious props especially for including the part about the bushings! People often gloss over that.
Hey, just want to thank you for a super helpful video. I'm the defacto longboard mechanic for my kids, and I'm not super well versed on anything but regular skateboard trucks, and keeping symmetry, because I never want to sacrifice comfort riding fakie, or switch. Having a purely directional longboard is completely new to me, but this should help me translate the wants, and gripes to real world mechanics. So yeah, seriously, thanks for getting as in depth as you did with split angles, and suggested busing duros.
Very interesting. I am setting up a G&S Fibreflex Team rider. I picked up some Rad Pad wede Risers. I am going to set it up with some standard ACE trucks, kind of a new old school setup. My 77 Fibreflex has both wedge risers pointed the away from each other, front sloped to nose and back slows towards the tail. This is how it was when I found it. I will play around with the setup and see what happens.
I just had to stop during this video just to comment that I follow your reddit as well! Just recently found you on there... your knowledge is phenomenal! This right here, this video alone is something I really needed! You are the best! I wish nothing but greatness for you and yours
Thank you very much - your video was precisely what I was looking for! I plan to convert a regular skateboard deck combined with a pair of RKP trucks into a shlongboard and needed to figure out how to implement the upward angled nose and tail when the trucks get mounted as far apart as possible. I suspected that the angle would make the board very nimble (and maybe even a little too much) and thought about using angled risers and maybe turn the hangers around which in Randall style RKPs results in a slightly lower angle and would counter nose and tail angle a bit. But I'm not quite sure yet whether I should use angled risers in addition as well. Thanks again and greetings from Berlin!
Absolutely killer video man! Your longboarding content is by far and away the best on the web. Keen to hear your take on this. I recently bought a set each of both Paris V3 165mm 43° and Paris V3 150mm 50° and am planning to pair some combination of the two with the Madrid Harry Clarke Snitch. As far as I can tell the Snitch has a natural 3° wedge in the nose, so if I were to use a 50° baseplate with a 165mm hanger in the front (total 53°) and a 43° baseplate with a 165mm hanger in the back, also with a 7° riser dewedge in the back (total 36°), do you think that would be a relatively solid setup for freeride/mellowish downhill? I've been holding out to get my hands on some Smokies or Don't Trip DH Cybins but it's a nightmare trying to ship anything to New Zealand at the moment. Bushing-wise, I was going to use some Orangatang Purple Nipples in the front and back, but after watching your vid may reconsider to use something softer in the front/harder in the back. Sorry for the mini essay! Would appreciate any thoughts. All the best!
I'd sya ditch the 50*s and keep the 43* plate infront. Go with a 3d printer wedge in the back (maybe about 5*-7). It will keep the height difference low to about 1/8inch in height increase. So you'll have 46/38 with all the wedging and dewedging sorted. ditch the Niples as well. They are really high-rebound bushings and they're VERY bouncy. Not good for downhill. Go for some Venom HPF :) How much do you weigh?
i have a landyachts dinghy, if i were to throw harder bushings in the rear would i get more stability in the downhill? rather than de-wedging and having to raise my setup further off the ground
💛🔥🤙🏻 great content , as usual brotha you know I'm already 'being your friend' (😉) ,ha... ..so, 'figured I'd mention one of my setups & working thru setting it up ( involves split angles) I got a deck I'd wanted for a long time . it's a smol race oriented deck & plan to run some cast Ronin Katana that are on billet Ronin baseplates at 25° and 47.5 ° . Those I have at RollingTree being hanger chopped to 134-144mm spacable. those take a while to chop. I ordered Bear Gen6 130mm 40° plates in black color ,hoping they'd allow me to acclimate to the smaller setup ( Chroma Polaris) & thinner truck characteristics while I await my main trucks . I ultimately settled on wedging the front 40° plate out to 47° & dewedged the rear to 35° . The hight increase was too much tho the stability gains were evident. It just felt 1/4 -1/2" too tall. I then went to Muir & ordered 1 bear gen6 50° ,180mm truck in blue ,lol this let me dewedge rear w a 4° Khiro wedge then only run a 1/8" venom riser on the front. the 50° / 36° , lower setup feels banging spot on. I did have to recalibrate bushing duro : I am about 150lb so am running 93a/93a HPF ( plug & doubletall ) rear w flat washer RS & 85a/81a HPF (plug& doubletall) front w flat Array washer presently getting used to it on some yellow S9 RF 78a but have some 76a venom cannibal CC I will eventually run . I also run splits on my freeride deck . A moonshine Mfg sidekick that has 150mm cArsenal I chopped from 165mm . It has 49° -wedged from 44°- front & 37° rear but I run split duro in the trucks ,too ( 90a/87a rear venom dtall+ 87a/85a front venom dtall : cup washers RS rear- Amish flat RS front) ⭐This was a very useful video among useful videos ⭐ thanks , my friend !!! 🔥🤙🏻😉💛🛹💨
Sick setup man, well thoughtout. Shame you had to buy that 180mm truck just for the 50 plate. Actually just setup a board like yours, but 50/35. Consider some 3d printed risers, they don't add much height, super thing. Statelineskatedesign makes some nice oens. As well, i'd suggest dityching those amish washers. By the wya, are those plug barrelsbushinsg or?
@@downhill254skate yep, the 0lug barrel that the bear cone with ...but double tall barrel rs 93/93 85/81 I like the tiny bit of limit at last w the tophat washer ...I have read Zak's diatribe against them,lmao ...I still like it on the front 😵💫 (edit: I also had intended to agree it a shame I had to buy that 1 truck . why they won't give us the 30° plate is boggling but not a slam ... probably the material shortage ,idk)
@@downhill254skate you were , again, correct; I removed the Amish washer front & put a flat washer instead= far better & greater difference than I'd remembered. TY , 🤙🏻😉
I got an arbor pilsner. It has 129mm Paris streets 50. I was thinking of a 15 dewedge in the rear. Is that a 5 degree in you video? I have 1/8 risers on it. How much would I need to add to the front height?
Awsome vid. But It would be nice if you shot it w the table square to the camera when you're showing angles comparisons. I was looking for one on angles for bowl riders. The basics are the same but I'm trying to figure the best set up. Cheers
I'll keep that in mind for next time, I was stressed out with the whole video I wasn't careful about the angles ... For a bowl setup, I think a small wedge in front and a small dewedge in back would it useful. maybe +5/-5, my best guess
Day 200 of my split angle adventure - I tried to split my Paris TKPs on a 23” wheelbase and it feels so bad 😵💫 Any tips on making larger wheelbase, split angle, ~170mm TKP setups feel good? Should I just go back to RKPs if I’m not going to be standing on top of the trucks? More experimenting necessary… might play with bushings to see if I can make this longboard - SLAPPY machine
I don't like splits on TKPs. I raced Maryhill on Indy 215s once for punk points, and wedged they felt TERRIBLE. I have a theory that TKP trucks depend on the weird off axis dive-slop to work, and wedging makes that happen on a weird angle and they feel shit. I'm currently thinking of trying to freeride an 80s pig shape redrilled to 17.5 WB with Venom Curb Stompers and SurfRodz TKPs on it. Precision billet TKPs that use tall barrels are either going to be really sweet or really dumb. The idea is to make an everything board that lives in my van. Freeride, mellow DH, dumb barrier sessions, skate parks of opportunity ect.
I've literally never split TKPs (apart from whats on the Comet), and never skarted them on a WB bigger than 20inches. I will have to let you know ... but it's a whole other adventure and not sure if I'll have an answer any time soon
@@bennyb.1742 I did split / wedge using TKPs. Wedged in the front: Benett and Surf Rodz. Dewedged Indies and a Tracker RTS in the back. Did exactly what it was supposed to do.
I changed my longboard complete to ~75 degree on the front and 60 on the back track. It is badly expirience, I hurt my leg and my board doesnt run as i wish. The previos setup is 65 / 54 degree. Can you give me advice?
Is it common that the hardware does not tighten flush to the baseplate with something like a 15° wedge? Be ayse I'm experiencing that with a set of 3d printed ones
Ok so I’m getting into downhill longboarding and I have all of the parts I need for a sorta highend board I have Madrid pro series Zack maytum deck, 78 mm 80a magnum wheels, bones ceramic bearings, with vicious grip tape. Now I need riser but idk what angle to get for the front and back. I have caliber 2 10” with 50° angle. Pricing does not matter btw so anyone got any suggestions?
I'm putting together a skateboard and had wedges on my board when I was a teenager. Forgot what the angle was. I don't have a long board though. What is the maximum angle that you would recommend on a standard 30 inch board with Independent Trucks? The board is 8.5 inches wide and I bought 60mm OJ wheels. I'm more of a sidewalk surfer/cruiser with occasional need to swerve around boardwalk foot traffic.
Love the video dude, Im considering grabbing some bear kodiak 140’s but I don’t like that their both 45’s im pretty sure, but going off what you said here I shouldn’t have a problem wedging the front to a 50 and dewedging the back to a 40 but is that enough?
Man I literally ordered 40° Bear trucks and angled risers like a day before I broke my ankle. Bear 30° has been coming soon for like more than a year now? Lol
I just ordered some smokies. I'm 170lbs do you suggest a similar bushing set up? I can start there and try dialing it further if needed. Thanks for the content ad always.
Great video man! does anyone has a suggestion for my Indies TKP 169 and arbiter dk (wheelbase 18-21 inch) setup. I wanna make it stable as possible for freeriding up to 80kmh. i will change the boardside bushings with 95a ones.
Great info! Have you tested, and what are your thoughts on how much effective difference changing the wheelbase length affects stability on decks with multiple wheelbase options?
Well, teh wider the wheelbase, the smaller the turning circle and the more stable you are at speed. Narrower teh wheelbase, teh less stable you are at speed
Yes - I understand this in theory - but wanted to know from someone with experience if it makes a significant difference in stability (keeping everything else the same) by just changing wheelbase length on the same deck. I am still very new to longboarding, so in my personal testing, switching from my 20.25" to 22.75" wheelbase and back does not 'seem' to make any difference to me - however, this may just be because as I'm testing back and forth between the two, I'm actually also progressing in my skills, so both of them 'feel' fine. (ie: once I find a hill that's fast enough (40+ish mph) that I get a little wobble on the short base, I switch to the long and the wobble goes away - but if I immediately switch back to the short, it doesn't wobble any more either)
I'm really short, and thus have a short stance, and having the short wheelbase and keeping the trucks closer to under my feet feels great - I just didn't know if that could be inhibiting my potential...
@@ultimateflash7792 also, you have to account that you've warmed up if you're testing the wheelbases back to back. Im almost always a bit unstable on my first run, but it gets better with run
Hey bro! So I'm planning to transition to dh setup and wanna hear your thoughts about this set up. 23 wheelbase, 130mm trucks, 44° 85a/87a front and 29° 90a/93a. Also I weighted 138lbs. I watched the vid is this the right amount of adjustment?
I'm trying to picture how the hardware would work with a wedge riser. The bolt won't go through the baseplate anymore since the bolt is trying to go through at an angle. Unless you drill a bunch of material out of the baseplate holes, but then you'll have a sloppy mount if you ever go back to no wedges. And the nut won't tighten flush against the baseplate with wedges either. Unless you have a better explanation
@@downhill254skate I will have to drill my baseplates for sure. My bolts don't even slide straight through them currently. I have to thread the bolt through the hole to install the bolts lol. I do have an idea for a work around on high angle wedges though. For example, if you are using a 10* wedge under your baseplate, place another 10* wedge on top of the deck also and drill a hole perpendicular to your baseplate. That will give you flat mounting surfaces for your hardware to sit against and prevent bent bolts. Basically you will just have angled holes in your deck. I would fill in the factory deck holes with epoxy first .
You said low angles lean more than turn, why then do you put harder bushings on them? Shouldn't it be softer bushings so they can turn more? Or are you just trying to make them turn as little as possible for maximum stability? 🤔
If you want to turn more you go witha high angle, if oyu want to turn less you go with a low angle baseplate fullstop. How much they ultimately turn will be dictated by the baseplate angle and not the bushing. The harder bushing is used to not make the truck feel super soft and super squirrelly, you want it to feel just right. Not too soft, not too hard
that matter with how bushings interact with the pivot angle is making me crazy lately @__@ i mean, you dewedge your 50* trucks expecting more lean and less turn, then bushings start acting weird and it feels like it's turning much more than before.. i somehow "solved it" it using cup washers on both RS and BS bushings and using a slight harder bushing set, still not confident of the practical benefit as a beginner
@@downhill254skate That’s cool! First of all thank you for your videos and articles, they are really helpful! I am thinking about printing my own risers/angle spacers to experiment a little bit. Do you know which material it was printed with and how much infill? Also, how bad of an idea would it be to mount these on a drop through board? Or should I just mount the trucks traditionally for that? I don’t think it’s possible for my board to get wheelbite with my current truck and wheel setup, no matter how low I make it. I have a landyachtz drop carve 40 and am thinking about experimenting with different setups to learn how these changes feel
@@flyingby3703 Glad the content is useful! I didn't print these myself, instagram.com/netherskate.co/ (you can also check out www.statelineskatedesign.com/ they do the same thing). They could likely provide you with more information on what to do for the printing and materials. Yeah it is feasible to make drop through angled risers and I bet it would be fun too. WHy not just experiment with different baseplates?
@@downhill254skate You‘re right, that would be an option too, but since I already have a 3d printer it would be cheaper to just print some risers and try it out. I’m tempted to try out what a really low board would feel like too. And also how good a thin layer of tpu might work in terms of vibration damping/shock absorbtion… SO MANYY IDEASSSS I‘m studying mechanical engineering so designing them would be fun for me too ;) Who knows, maybe at some point in my life I‘ll make my own skating products… Anyway I have Paris trucks and I don’t know which version they are. I bought them on a custom board and didn’t know much about components back then (about 5 years ago I think, I‘m not sure though). The board was already built in the shop so I don’t know exactly what was used. I just know they are 180mm. So I‘d really like to know if I have paris v1 or v2 (i don’t know when they came out) because I would like to get new pivot cup bushings too...
![6 TIPS to cruise through urban obstacles | [ LONGBOARD TALK EP.3 ]](/img/n.gif)
Great video man! Super useful info, for everyone who hasn't messed around with dewedging and wedging please do! Once I started dewedging my back truck and running a 50* in the front I barely touched any of my other Sym setups. Ive found I really prefer that slightly more dead rear truck as it just provides a little bit of comfort once I start hitting some speeds, and as I really dont skate switch, havent seen many downsides at all. Awesome job Abuga been killing it with the video guides lately.
Good advice bro!
Bro. I just learned more in 10 minutes than in the last 2 or 3 years. Well done.
Dude, I love your videos. You really get into the smaller details that is helping me out so much!
Awesome video man! I just started messing around with angled risers and its been really fun
Yeah I saw your video on it! Thought it was pretty good. You should really experiment with split angles too. I think some splits would be/feel super nice on your electric board. Give it a try if you're up to experiment!
@@downhill254skate I've been running a 43/50 split and it's been solid. But I definitely gotta try it on an electric board, you're right
Watched before and didn’t understand, but now I do after tinkering around with trucks. Looking forward to trying these set ups. Thanks as always for the invaluable knowledge & experience.
Dude THE best video explaining angles and outcomes and how bushings are affected that I’ve ever seen. I had a rudimentary understanding before this, but I’m about ready to print some angled risers now after watching this! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! :)
Damn dude, you really explained it thoroughly and well but still straight to the point. Serious props especially for including the part about the bushings! People often gloss over that.
10/10 video dude, thanks so much for the clear explanation with palpable examples. Liked & suscribed. Cheers.
I will be your friend bro. Keep preaching the good longboard equipment videos.
hahaha, much appreciated man
awesome vid, finally got this sorted out! Thanks for some new funky ideas!
Thank You!
NOw I know why I had to mess around with my angled risers on my mountainboard to get it to turn! You rule.
Dude, finally someone who explains this shit. Thank you so much!
Hey, just want to thank you for a super helpful video. I'm the defacto longboard mechanic for my kids, and I'm not super well versed on anything but regular skateboard trucks, and keeping symmetry, because I never want to sacrifice comfort riding fakie, or switch.
Having a purely directional longboard is completely new to me, but this should help me translate the wants, and gripes to real world mechanics. So yeah, seriously, thanks for getting as in depth as you did with split angles, and suggested busing duros.
I'm trying to set up a normal skateboard to be a bit more surfskatey, have you got any tips? Thanks
Well done! You covered a lot that I had not considered.
Very interesting. I am setting up a G&S Fibreflex Team rider. I picked up some Rad Pad wede Risers. I am going to set it up with some standard ACE trucks, kind of a new old school setup.
My 77 Fibreflex has both wedge risers pointed the away from each other, front sloped to nose and back slows towards the tail. This is how it was when I found it.
I will play around with the setup and see what happens.
You got my attention... Thanks and I subscribed
Awesome knowledge drop mate!
Holy cow. This guy... 🔥 🔥 🔥 so informative
Best video on this subject. Thank you. I now know how I want to set up my cruiser board.
That was clear an answered all my questions and above! Thanks a lot!
I really appreciate you updating such and older base of content. You’re doing great!
hey man i realy like your channel. very educative stuff. no bullshit,all facts.
Blesssss
Amazing video!
The video was amazing!! Was exactly what I was searching for, and very well explained!
Thanks for the well explained tips
Just watched this video and the one about bushings and they have been super informative. You might have just saved me from some future speed wobbles!
Glad I could help!
That was exactly the kind of information I was looking for, and very well presented. Thanks!
You put out the most informative videos!!!
Glad you like them!
I just had to stop during this video just to comment that I follow your reddit as well! Just recently found you on there... your knowledge is phenomenal! This right here, this video alone is something I really needed! You are the best! I wish nothing but greatness for you and yours
much love man, hope the information servs you well
Thank you very much - your video was precisely what I was looking for!
I plan to convert a regular skateboard deck combined with a pair of RKP trucks into a shlongboard and needed to figure out how to implement the upward angled nose and tail when the trucks get mounted as far apart as possible.
I suspected that the angle would make the board very nimble (and maybe even a little too much) and thought about using angled risers and maybe turn the hangers around which in Randall style RKPs results in a slightly lower angle and would counter nose and tail angle a bit. But I'm not quite sure yet whether I should use angled risers in addition as well.
Thanks again and greetings from Berlin!
Cheers mate
great video!
Excellent video!
Awesome video, killer explanations, thanks a lot !
Sick video bro, so useful. Just about to set up my new cuiser with angled trucks.
Nice, let me know how it rides
Absolutely killer video man! Your longboarding content is by far and away the best on the web.
Keen to hear your take on this. I recently bought a set each of both Paris V3 165mm 43° and Paris V3 150mm 50° and am planning to pair some combination of the two with the Madrid Harry Clarke Snitch.
As far as I can tell the Snitch has a natural 3° wedge in the nose, so if I were to use a 50° baseplate with a 165mm hanger in the front (total 53°) and a 43° baseplate with a 165mm hanger in the back, also with a 7° riser dewedge in the back (total 36°), do you think that would be a relatively solid setup for freeride/mellowish downhill?
I've been holding out to get my hands on some Smokies or Don't Trip DH Cybins but it's a nightmare trying to ship anything to New Zealand at the moment.
Bushing-wise, I was going to use some Orangatang Purple Nipples in the front and back, but after watching your vid may reconsider to use something softer in the front/harder in the back.
Sorry for the mini essay! Would appreciate any thoughts. All the best!
I'd sya ditch the 50*s and keep the 43* plate infront.
Go with a 3d printer wedge in the back (maybe about 5*-7). It will keep the height difference low to about 1/8inch in height increase.
So you'll have 46/38 with all the wedging and dewedging sorted.
ditch the Niples as well. They are really high-rebound bushings and they're VERY bouncy. Not good for downhill. Go for some Venom HPF :)
How much do you weigh?
Fantastic
Great video! Thanks for sharing your experience and very useful info!
cranking 'em out today! Good ones
Enjoy!
Great one
Thanks for helping me set up my hierophant
Glad I could help
I'm still here, watching again. I need to get some wedged risers.
🤙🏼👏🏼👏🏼🤙🏼
*Love split angle setups!*
Your videos are exactly what I needed, thank you kind sir🫡
good info, thx bruh.
i have a landyachts dinghy, if i were to throw harder bushings in the rear would i get more stability in the downhill? rather than de-wedging and having to raise my setup further off the ground
good stuff
💛🔥🤙🏻
great content , as usual brotha
you know I'm already 'being your friend' (😉) ,ha...
..so, 'figured I'd mention one of my setups & working thru setting it up ( involves split angles)
I got a deck I'd wanted for a long time . it's a smol race oriented deck & plan to run some cast Ronin Katana that are on billet Ronin baseplates at 25° and 47.5 ° .
Those I have at RollingTree being hanger chopped to 134-144mm spacable.
those take a while to chop.
I ordered Bear Gen6 130mm 40° plates in black color ,hoping they'd allow me to acclimate to the smaller setup ( Chroma Polaris) & thinner truck characteristics while I await my main trucks .
I ultimately settled on wedging the front 40° plate out to 47° & dewedged the rear to 35° . The hight increase was too much tho the stability gains were evident. It just felt 1/4 -1/2" too tall.
I then went to Muir & ordered 1 bear gen6 50° ,180mm truck in blue ,lol
this let me dewedge rear w a 4° Khiro wedge then only run a 1/8" venom riser on the front.
the 50° / 36° , lower setup feels banging spot on.
I did have to recalibrate bushing duro :
I am about 150lb so am running 93a/93a HPF ( plug & doubletall ) rear w flat washer RS & 85a/81a HPF (plug& doubletall) front w flat Array washer
presently getting used to it on some yellow S9 RF 78a but have some 76a venom cannibal CC I will eventually run .
I also run splits on my freeride deck . A moonshine Mfg sidekick that has 150mm cArsenal I chopped from 165mm . It has 49° -wedged from 44°- front & 37° rear but I run split duro in the trucks ,too ( 90a/87a rear venom dtall+ 87a/85a front venom dtall : cup washers RS rear- Amish flat RS front)
⭐This was a very useful video among useful videos ⭐
thanks , my friend !!!
🔥🤙🏻😉💛🛹💨
( edit: oh. I swapped the blue Bear Gen6 180mm hanger w the 40° set's 130mm hanger ,of course ! I did not mention that in my description)
Sick setup man, well thoughtout. Shame you had to buy that 180mm truck just for the 50 plate. Actually just setup a board like yours, but 50/35.
Consider some 3d printed risers, they don't add much height, super thing. Statelineskatedesign makes some nice oens.
As well, i'd suggest dityching those amish washers. By the wya, are those plug barrelsbushinsg or?
@@downhill254skate yep, the 0lug barrel that the bear cone with ...but double tall barrel rs
93/93 85/81 I like the tiny bit of limit at last w the tophat washer ...I have read Zak's diatribe against them,lmao ...I still like it on the front 😵💫
(edit: I also had intended to agree it a shame I had to buy that 1 truck . why they won't give us the 30° plate is boggling but not a slam ... probably the material shortage ,idk)
@@downhill254skate you were , again, correct; I removed the Amish washer front & put a flat washer instead= far better & greater difference than I'd remembered. TY , 🤙🏻😉
I got an arbor pilsner. It has 129mm Paris streets 50. I was thinking of a 15 dewedge in the rear. Is that a 5 degree in you video? I have 1/8 risers on it. How much would I need to add to the front height?
I love you brother! :) Thank you!
Awsome vid. But It would be nice if you shot it w the table square to the camera when you're showing angles comparisons. I was looking for one on angles for bowl riders. The basics are the same but I'm trying to figure the best set up. Cheers
I'll keep that in mind for next time, I was stressed out with the whole video I wasn't careful about the angles ...
For a bowl setup, I think a small wedge in front and a small dewedge in back would it useful. maybe +5/-5, my best guess
Day 200 of my split angle adventure - I tried to split my Paris TKPs on a 23” wheelbase and it feels so bad 😵💫
Any tips on making larger wheelbase, split angle, ~170mm TKP setups feel good?
Should I just go back to RKPs if I’m not going to be standing on top of the trucks?
More experimenting necessary… might play with bushings to see if I can make this longboard - SLAPPY machine
Was that by chance on that DB proto you were teasing ;) You got it tho! Slappy machine deserves to be real!
I don't like splits on TKPs. I raced Maryhill on Indy 215s once for punk points, and wedged they felt TERRIBLE. I have a theory that TKP trucks depend on the weird off axis dive-slop to work, and wedging makes that happen on a weird angle and they feel shit.
I'm currently thinking of trying to freeride an 80s pig shape redrilled to 17.5 WB with Venom Curb Stompers and SurfRodz TKPs on it. Precision billet TKPs that use tall barrels are either going to be really sweet or really dumb. The idea is to make an everything board that lives in my van. Freeride, mellow DH, dumb barrier sessions, skate parks of opportunity ect.
I've literally never split TKPs (apart from whats on the Comet), and never skarted them on a WB bigger than 20inches. I will have to let you know ... but it's a whole other adventure and not sure if I'll have an answer any time soon
@@bennyb.1742 I did split / wedge using TKPs.
Wedged in the front: Benett and Surf Rodz.
Dewedged Indies and a Tracker RTS in the back.
Did exactly what it was supposed to do.
I changed my longboard complete to ~75 degree on the front and 60 on the back track. It is badly expirience, I hurt my leg and my board doesnt run as i wish. The previos setup is 65 / 54 degree. Can you give me advice?
Is it common that the hardware does not tighten flush to the baseplate with something like a 15° wedge? Be ayse I'm experiencing that with a set of 3d printed ones
Killing it
Thanks Will!
Ok so I’m getting into downhill longboarding and I have all of the parts I need for a sorta highend board I have Madrid pro series Zack maytum deck, 78 mm 80a magnum wheels, bones ceramic bearings, with vicious grip tape. Now I need riser but idk what angle to get for the front and back. I have caliber 2 10” with 50° angle. Pricing does not matter btw so anyone got any suggestions?
I'm putting together a skateboard and had wedges on my board when I was a teenager. Forgot what the angle was. I don't have a long board though. What is the maximum angle that you would recommend on a standard 30 inch board with Independent Trucks? The board is 8.5 inches wide and I bought 60mm OJ wheels. I'm more of a sidewalk surfer/cruiser with occasional need to swerve around boardwalk foot traffic.
you can't go wrong with +/- 7 degrees
Love the video dude, Im considering grabbing some bear kodiak 140’s but I don’t like that their both 45’s im pretty sure, but going off what you said here I shouldn’t have a problem wedging the front to a 50 and dewedging the back to a 40 but is that enough?
Yeah that should be ok!
Man I literally ordered 40° Bear trucks and angled risers like a day before I broke my ankle.
Bear 30° has been coming soon for like more than a year now? Lol
I heard rumors it will for sure come in in January (but from teh grapevine, so not sure how true), but eyah it's kinda a myth haha
Damn answered my question specifically.. having one side higher than the other
I just ordered some smokies. I'm 170lbs do you suggest a similar bushing set up? I can start there and try dialing it further if needed. Thanks for the content ad always.
Buy a few bushings for each truck to be get a good understanding yourself if you have the budget. He weighs 160-170 too rewatch the vid
Use the existing stock bushigns, those are pretty awesome as is! I'd reocmend removing the boardside washers and keeping whatever is roadside
Great video man! does anyone has a suggestion for my Indies TKP 169 and arbiter dk (wheelbase 18-21 inch) setup. I wanna make it stable as possible for freeriding up to 80kmh. i will change the boardside bushings with 95a ones.
i weight 90 kg
Hoenstly, uhhh, I can only give advice on RKP setups haha. I knwo some people skate that fast on tkps, I'll link you if I remember
@@downhill254skate thank you that would be great 👍🏻
Great info! Have you tested, and what are your thoughts on how much effective difference changing the wheelbase length affects stability on decks with multiple wheelbase options?
Well, teh wider the wheelbase, the smaller the turning circle and the more stable you are at speed.
Narrower teh wheelbase, teh less stable you are at speed
Yes - I understand this in theory - but wanted to know from someone with experience if it makes a significant difference in stability (keeping everything else the same) by just changing wheelbase length on the same deck. I am still very new to longboarding, so in my personal testing, switching from my 20.25" to 22.75" wheelbase and back does not 'seem' to make any difference to me - however, this may just be because as I'm testing back and forth between the two, I'm actually also progressing in my skills, so both of them 'feel' fine. (ie: once I find a hill that's fast enough (40+ish mph) that I get a little wobble on the short base, I switch to the long and the wobble goes away - but if I immediately switch back to the short, it doesn't wobble any more either)
I'm really short, and thus have a short stance, and having the short wheelbase and keeping the trucks closer to under my feet feels great - I just didn't know if that could be inhibiting my potential...
@@ultimateflash7792 use split angle trucks (big split like 50/30 or 50/20), keep your weight mostly on your front foot, and no problemo
@@ultimateflash7792 also, you have to account that you've warmed up if you're testing the wheelbases back to back. Im almost always a bit unstable on my first run, but it gets better with run
what are those green angled risers you have called
Those are from Netherskateco!
Does the split setup work when doing 180s or 360s? Wouldn't it affect your ride when your on switch stance?
It will affect your ability to ride switch comfortably
Love this video thank you!!
This here is Downhill University! This is where we come to get educated.
Hey bro! So I'm planning to transition to dh setup and wanna hear your thoughts about this set up. 23 wheelbase, 130mm trucks, 44° 85a/87a front and 29° 90a/93a. Also I weighted 138lbs. I watched the vid is this the right amount of adjustment?
Hey man, yeah that sounds pretty good. You could go much harder and softer though.
I'd say, 81a/85a and 93/93a or 93/95a
I'm trying to picture how the hardware would work with a wedge riser. The bolt won't go through the baseplate anymore since the bolt is trying to go through at an angle. Unless you drill a bunch of material out of the baseplate holes, but then you'll have a sloppy mount if you ever go back to no wedges. And the nut won't tighten flush against the baseplate with wedges either. Unless you have a better explanation
it works fine without having to drill anything. The bolts do end up bending though, especially if you use a really thick, high angle wedge riser
@@downhill254skate I will have to drill my baseplates for sure. My bolts don't even slide straight through them currently. I have to thread the bolt through the hole to install the bolts lol.
I do have an idea for a work around on high angle wedges though. For example, if you are using a 10* wedge under your baseplate, place another 10* wedge on top of the deck also and drill a hole perpendicular to your baseplate. That will give you flat mounting surfaces for your hardware to sit against and prevent bent bolts. Basically you will just have angled holes in your deck. I would fill in the factory deck holes with epoxy first .
Is it safe to put angled risers on a dropthrough? I feel like it'll lower the truck so much I'll get wheel bite without much effort at all
You can put shallower angles
Please, could you tell me which angles are used on sector 9 riser angle risers?
Those are a 5* wedge I'm pretty sure
@@RatBürgerSk8 Nice….thanx
You said low angles lean more than turn, why then do you put harder bushings on them? Shouldn't it be softer bushings so they can turn more? Or are you just trying to make them turn as little as possible for maximum stability? 🤔
If you want to turn more you go witha high angle, if oyu want to turn less you go with a low angle baseplate fullstop.
How much they ultimately turn will be dictated by the baseplate angle and not the bushing. The harder bushing is used to not make the truck feel super soft and super squirrelly, you want it to feel just right. Not too soft, not too hard
yeeeeeees!
that matter with how bushings interact with the pivot angle is making me crazy lately @__@ i mean, you dewedge your 50* trucks expecting more lean and less turn, then bushings start acting weird and it feels like it's turning much more than before.. i somehow "solved it" it using cup washers on both RS and BS bushings and using a slight harder bushing set, still not confident of the practical benefit as a beginner
Is that green riser 3d printed? How strong is it?
Yes, and pretty strong actually. Lived up well to the abuse I've put it through so far. I'm impressed
@@downhill254skate That’s cool!
First of all thank you for your videos and articles, they are really helpful!
I am thinking about printing my own risers/angle spacers to experiment a little bit. Do you know which material it was printed with and how much infill? Also, how bad of an idea would it be to mount these on a drop through board? Or should I just mount the trucks traditionally for that? I don’t think it’s possible for my board to get wheelbite with my current truck and wheel setup, no matter how low I make it. I have a landyachtz drop carve 40 and am thinking about experimenting with different setups to learn how these changes feel
@@flyingby3703 Glad the content is useful! I didn't print these myself, instagram.com/netherskate.co/ (you can also check out www.statelineskatedesign.com/ they do the same thing). They could likely provide you with more information on what to do for the printing and materials.
Yeah it is feasible to make drop through angled risers and I bet it would be fun too. WHy not just experiment with different baseplates?
@@downhill254skate You‘re right, that would be an option too, but since I already have a 3d printer it would be cheaper to just print some risers and try it out. I’m tempted to try out what a really low board would feel like too. And also how good a thin layer of tpu might work in terms of vibration damping/shock absorbtion… SO MANYY IDEASSSS I‘m studying mechanical engineering so designing them would be fun for me too ;)
Who knows, maybe at some point in my life I‘ll make my own skating products… Anyway I have Paris trucks and I don’t know which version they are. I bought them on a custom board and didn’t know much about components back then (about 5 years ago I think, I‘m not sure though). The board was already built in the shop so I don’t know exactly what was used. I just know they are 180mm. So I‘d really like to know if I have paris v1 or v2 (i don’t know when they came out) because I would like to get new pivot cup bushings too...
Dude..Can a 50degree base plate converted into 45..with just a riser ?
yes
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Ayo
TH-cam is discriminating me.....
Im pretty sure risers give more stability.