Front truck DT Poppy with Riptide Aps 90bs/85rs barrel/cone. Rear truck is Bear Gen 6 40 degree zeroed with Aps 90bs/85rs double barrels and Karma wheels. No additional wedges. At my 190lbs I can push up to speed then pickup a little speed from there pumping. Sooo much fun!
I was so envious of him wiggling like a fish up a hill, then I have to remind myself that this dude has skated across countries, and I'm going down the street. I'll keep working on it. Lol.
@@PaulKentSkates Whole bit was pitched perfectly as is, Paul - but I can't deny that a few seconds of Flipper sfx would've been🤌 for those of us of a certain vintage. I do feel, however, that you could have taken a bit more time to ridicule & denounce the silly/dangerous "Cult of Thee Negativ Rear Truck" that looms so large just lately in otherwise sensible LDP discussion groups. Those misguided dupes have been tolerated for far too long, just because the community at large is too polite to point & laugh. (I did catch your slight allusion to the subject, but I feel it really needs to be hammered home hard by a respected voice, as the hints I've been dropping in said groups for the last 18mo or so have all been ignored).
Great, exactly what I needed (or was missing) as I got my Supersonic w/ Bears 50/40 and Karmas six weeks ago as my first ever Longboard at the young age of 44. But then it also made me try it out myself without knowing too much about it. When I switched from the 23 degree stock setup to the 0 degree option I was impressed by how much more efficient but less fun it was. I call this the wiggler setup where it seems I can’t really utilize the flex as much (got the bamboo heavy SS as I weigh around 90 kilograms) When going back to the stock 23 degree I got the flex and the fun back. But then the summer ended here in Austria and it started to rain. Still need to dive into the topic of bushings (also on my esk8’s) as the front wheels do lift off the ground when leaning in heavy. Long story short, thanks Paul and Jeff for the video and the great board.
Best board on the market for us big fellas. I got the XL and put some dad bods on some Bear 180mm TIs and this baby takes all 6'5" 325 lbs of me like a boss. Absolutely love this thing.
Not many people have the Baer Ti trucks, not sure if you can ever get them anymore. I was going for an ultra lightweight drop thru free ride commuter... Ti button head bolts and Ti nyloc skate hardware, axle and kingpin nuts and Swiss big 6 ball Bones dress up the Ti/aluminum Baer 180s mounted to the shorter Landyachtz drop cat 33" Awesome? Not quite.. the drop cat is heavy as F and negates all the fancy lightweight metallurgy so im looking for a new deck lighter, less ply or composite/hybrid composite with more flex as well...
Front on my supersonic xl is a poppy xl @ 60°, rear is a 35° 129 mm Randall on the far rear with pink speedvents. Gives great torquey S type pumps, pushes well and overall a real fun board. Just ordered another since I have extra trucks and wheels
Coming from the flexy-as-butter Icarus I found my new Supersonic waaaay to stiff for my riding style. Got some spare nipples I can toy with for the front truck. I wasn't sure about it before but this vid helped a lot. Thanks!
*Setup video* 🤩 🤙🏽⚡️🤟🏽⚡️👌🏽 Plus Paul Kent 🔥🔥🔥 Comedic gold 😂 That upside down one at the start 🤣😂 I hope no-one has ever done that but someone probably has 😭
Great to have another Paul Video! Stuff is rare these days! I think there are a lot of great pointers in there but one thing i could't agree more is the affordability of the supersonic. It has so much integrated functionality and can workso many different setups, even weirder ones while still being a complete powerhouse. If anyone wants to get into LDP the Supersonic is most likely the best starting point and scales so well along the line! I can only recommend it and i love mine to death!
after a lot of research (also by watching your videos) I decided to get the SS bamboo as my first longboard. I finally ordered it at justpassinthrough using your discount code after I watched your interview with them. so I guess I have to thank you too. Sei gegrüßt!
Thanks so much for the video. I figured out some of it through trial and error, but this spelled it out. The Supersonic is one of the most unique boards I've ever ridden. I'm still struggling powering up hills, but I've been running a rear 3 degree with the 65 front. I'm definitely going to try a higher torque setting as I am generally not rolling very fast. I've currently got a Riptide 85a Magnum boardside with stock Paris cone bushing roadside in the back, and I've got an 80a APS canon boardside with a stock Paris cone bushing roadside in the front. I tried some canons roadside too, but the initial setup felt a little stiff, so I've got those sotck Paris cones in until I figure it all out. At 225 lbs. it is very easy to wiggle it, but I've taken it on some mild hills to around 15-18 mph with no wobble. This is on the wider 8ply deck. Best longboard experience I've had. It's the lowest resistance push I've ever felt with 85mm wheels on it. Love it.
The note at 7:02 was majorly helpful. My previous setup definitely had the front wheels lifting first. I just rebuilt the board based on some of the recommendations. I put the back truck in the rear -17 degree position with a 43 degree Paris baseplate. I still have the 80a Canon in the front with the stock Paris cone roadside (90a I think) as I don't have any more super soft barrel bushings right now. To get the rear wheels lifting first on the 8ply deck, I had to use two 97.5a APS Canons in the rear. I tried a 97.5/95 Canon in the rear, but the front lifted first. I'm going to order some more 75a and 80a Canons, and maybe a front roadside cone, to experiment with softening the front as I'd like the rear a little looser too. That tip made it super easy to find a starting point.
@@funkingitup1805oh good! I'm glad. I wasn't sure how best to present it. We want the rear to lift just a moment early because in a corner or hard drive more of your weight will be on the rear even when we try to keep it up front it often is rear heavy. But, again it's barely much of a difference. I think it really works well to get people choosing close to appropriate bushings. I tend to go soft up front 81a/77a and then I match the rear to that. I was thinking of turning that note into its own short video.
Thanks for the great Video. How many Boards were harmed during the production of the Intro? Hardest to understand for me is Truck Geometry. Let's see if I got that correctly: - for a "slow" pumper it's better to dewedge the front truck down from 65° to...where? - for a "pure" pushing board dewedge the Front even more? - for a fast "race" board use the flipped truck inner position - for a "turnier" board use the longer wheelbase and play with angles there, dewedge for more stability.
Thank you for asking for clarification. Points 2 to 4 are correct. For the first point, We want to wedge the truck more, up to 65° for a more casual pumper. (Paired with a 20-30° rear you'll be able to tackle some mild climbs). It wasn't clear but I typically use a 40° plate and would add 5° (+ 15° nose angle) to make it better suited for cruising around on the pathways. Now I have a 50 on the front and I've dewedged the 5° instead to get the 60° that I find ideal for my general use, while still being fairly quick for pumping. You can extract more speed from your effort when set around 55° but it requires more effort. I'll add this to the description. In a fast race I'd go around 55° in front, and chill rides being able to pump as much as possible 65° Sorry my editing brain didn't realize how confusing that was until I had posted.
Love the video. Very useful and I was thinking of getting another brand but this changed my mind. Paul, what trucks and bushings are you using for your "favorite" setup with the Hokus? Are the bushings just stock from the pantheon website? And you're doing Bear 130mm 40/50 trucks?
I (Paul) weight around 180 lbs I've got the hokus set up with a bear 130 truck wedged to 45° on the nose. (60° total) Boardside I'm using 81a blue and roadside 77a yellow siesmic bushings. At the time I was running a 40° BASEPLATE ON the 0° mount, but I typically prefer the -17° tail. Bushings on the 0° tail are Riptide Krank, Grey 96a boardside and Wine 93a roadside. I also have one setup with Aera K6 trucks the front is 60° with the same bushings And the rear has a 30° plate -3° wedge and the -17° tail (10° total) with green riptide Krank bushings.
Higher angle is going to get you into your turn quicker (needs to be compensated with softer bushings to balance the leverage) so will result in a higher cadence. Lower angle will require more change of lean to get to that same depth of turn = lower cadence. I like to call this wavelength. Higher angle will likely result in a shorter wavelength. Or a pointier shape to your wave at least. And a lower angle will have a more round shaped wave.
What is the difference between medium and tall seismic bushings and wich schould i get for my paris v3 truck on supersonic and how much do I tighten the nut do you have it in newton meter ?
Tall bushings are too tall for Paris trucks, they are for select downhill trucks such as rogues gold slaloms and Ronins. . The regular .6" is standard, and probably the safest recommendation. If you are running small wheels and wanted more depth of lean maybe smoother action but a higher risk of wheel bite you could try the medium .65" bushing with no boardside washer. I don't have torque specs and honestly it would vary depending on the type of bushing durometers you select and even the type of nylock nut you use. The base level of tightness for bushings is tight enough that you can no longer twist the roadside bushings with your hands. Even with a very hard grip. I will refer to this as being "snug". After that some manufacturers recommend a half turn beyond that. Higher rebound formulas you can turn a little past not if you wish. If you're running something like a Krank formula Riptide bushing you can go from just snug up to two full turns past snug if you want to tune it to feel more tight. Personally I'll typically turn my rear downhill bushings one full turn past snug. For my rear bushing for pumping I might give it a half turn extra, but the front I keep fairly loose, maybe a quarter turn extra for siesmic bushings. And you can tune it a bit further with Krank as described.
Don’t know whether I should go for the 155mm or 130mm bear trucks. Is there much difference in how agile the board is ? Also will standard Venom bushings be alright
Yes venom bushings are great. They aren't as wide as the others but they will work just like venom bushings regularly do. For the supersonic I'd go with 130 unless you are using the wider heavy flex, or if you will be riding it down hills. 130 will be quicker to initiate turns so narrower is typically preferred for pumping.
I have a question about the resulting angle of the rear truck in the setups(either 17deg or -40deg positions) a 'positive' net rear angle is when the bolt of the kingpin is further rearward than the head of the kingpin, right? and this is much more desirable than having the bolt more forward(close to the middle of the board)?
Sorry it took me a few reads before I understood what you were asking. Yes, if the nut is more rearward than the head of the bolt the rear truck will turn in the opposite direction of the front and will aid in rotating the board in the same direction as the front truck. If it were reversed, the rear would angle in the same direction as the front in the board would sidestep more and more as it approaches the same steering angles as the front. Sorry I feel what I just wrote will be more confusing to most people without having a model to demonstrate.
@@PaulKentSkates haha yeah it was hard for me to word what i was thinking. but yeah your explanation makes sense. the board would almost be crabwalking instead of rotating around the turning point. thanks for taking the time with my question
Thanks for the video Paul. I'm after a push mainly setup with Paris RKP 50s. I've just got them front and back. So that gives me 65 front and 33 back. Definitely having that wheel issue where the front is far off the ground before the back starts to lift. Recommendations?
I would consider dewedging the front. I'd start with a 10° wedge and see how it feels. It will make your bushings feel softer in the front due to improved leverage on the bushing. For a push specific set-up, I find when the front is over 55° the debris on the road has more leverage over your trucks than you do. 50 would be better. If you can find wedged risers I would give them a try. 10-15° I'd keep the rear where it is. If your front wheels still lift I would choose your front bushings by feel, and then increased hardness of the rear bushings to match the front so both front and back lift at the same time (or the rear can lift a few mm before the front) There is another comment where someone asks about a push specific set-up where I discuss this also. Take a look for it.
If you have it in the middle mount (the 0° one) then yes, the pivot should point forward and the axle behind it. But, If you are mounting it on the outer-most tail mount (-17°), then you put it on normally with the axle towards the center of the board and the pivot pointing rearwards. Hopefully this helps?
It turns better than my street board. (We have those too, And they are an endless headache in certain situations). I'm a believer in using the right board for the job.
What is your favorite way to set up your supersonic?
I really liked Skate Horizons idea of the Loaded Fathom tail nub. th-cam.com/video/d00Y2wBuY8M/w-d-xo.html
Front truck DT Poppy with Riptide Aps 90bs/85rs barrel/cone. Rear truck is Bear Gen 6 40 degree zeroed with Aps 90bs/85rs double barrels and Karma wheels. No additional wedges. At my 190lbs I can push up to speed then pickup a little speed from there pumping. Sooo much fun!
No but seriously, if anyone could pull off the perfect Supersonic setup video it's Paul Kent the man himself!
That’s why we needed Paul. I’d have bored you to tears - Jeff
I was so envious of him wiggling like a fish up a hill, then I have to remind myself that this dude has skated across countries, and I'm going down the street. I'll keep working on it. Lol.
@@funkingitup1805 It took everything I had to not use a flipper sound effect in that moment.
@@PaulKentSkates Whole bit was pitched perfectly as is, Paul - but I can't deny that a few seconds of Flipper sfx would've been🤌 for those of us of a certain vintage.
I do feel, however, that you could have taken a bit more time to ridicule & denounce the silly/dangerous "Cult of Thee Negativ Rear Truck" that looms so large just lately in otherwise sensible LDP discussion groups. Those misguided dupes have been tolerated for far too long, just because the community at large is too polite to point & laugh.
(I did catch your slight allusion to the subject, but I feel it really needs to be hammered home hard by a respected voice, as the hints I've been dropping in said groups for the last 18mo or so have all been ignored).
Dont forget to like the video! 🥺🙏
Done. Thanks, man.
Great, exactly what I needed
(or was missing) as I got my Supersonic w/ Bears 50/40 and Karmas six weeks ago as my first ever Longboard at the young age of 44.
But then it also made me try it out myself without knowing too much about it.
When I switched from the 23 degree stock setup to the 0 degree option I was impressed by how much more efficient but less fun it was. I call this the wiggler setup where it seems I can’t really utilize the flex as much (got the bamboo heavy SS as I weigh around 90 kilograms)
When going back to the stock 23 degree I got the flex and the fun back. But then the summer ended here in Austria and it started to rain.
Still need to dive into the topic of bushings (also on my esk8’s) as the front wheels do lift off the ground when leaning in heavy.
Long story short, thanks Paul and Jeff for the video and the great board.
Best board on the market for us big fellas. I got the XL and put some dad bods on some Bear 180mm TIs and this baby takes all 6'5" 325 lbs of me like a boss. Absolutely love this thing.
Not many people have the Baer Ti trucks, not sure if you can ever get them anymore. I was going for an ultra lightweight drop thru free ride commuter...
Ti button head bolts and Ti nyloc skate hardware, axle and kingpin nuts and Swiss big 6 ball Bones dress up the Ti/aluminum Baer 180s mounted to the shorter Landyachtz drop cat 33"
Awesome? Not quite.. the drop cat is heavy as F and negates all the fancy lightweight metallurgy so im looking for a new deck lighter, less ply or composite/hybrid composite with more flex as well...
0:22 is epic. Turtle board.
Convex cave gang!
Front on my supersonic xl is a poppy xl @ 60°, rear is a 35° 129 mm Randall on the far rear with pink speedvents. Gives great torquey S type pumps, pushes well and overall a real fun board. Just ordered another since I have extra trucks and wheels
DUDE!!! That was Awesome!!! Well-done. Thx. I knew I needed some softer front bushings, what's wrong with me, GEEEEEZ.
Coming from the flexy-as-butter Icarus I found my new Supersonic waaaay to stiff for my riding style. Got some spare nipples I can toy with for the front truck. I wasn't sure about it before but this vid helped a lot. Thanks!
Why yes, I did just watch a whole video about setting up a board I don’t even own
*Setup video* 🤩
🤙🏽⚡️🤟🏽⚡️👌🏽
Plus Paul Kent 🔥🔥🔥
Comedic gold 😂
That upside down one at the start 🤣😂 I hope no-one has ever done that but someone probably has 😭
What a perfect video!
Excellent as ever 👍👍
Great to have another Paul Video!
Stuff is rare these days!
I think there are a lot of great pointers in there but one thing i could't agree more is the affordability of the supersonic.
It has so much integrated functionality and can workso many different setups, even weirder ones while still being a complete powerhouse.
If anyone wants to get into LDP the Supersonic is most likely the best starting point and scales so well along the line!
I can only recommend it and i love mine to death!
after a lot of research (also by watching your videos) I decided to get the SS bamboo as my first longboard. I finally ordered it at justpassinthrough using your discount code after I watched your interview with them. so I guess I have to thank you too. Sei gegrüßt!
@@ClarenceHellOfficial Ohh good stuff!
You will.enjoy that one for sure!
Thanks so much for the video. I figured out some of it through trial and error, but this spelled it out. The Supersonic is one of the most unique boards I've ever ridden. I'm still struggling powering up hills, but I've been running a rear 3 degree with the 65 front. I'm definitely going to try a higher torque setting as I am generally not rolling very fast. I've currently got a Riptide 85a Magnum boardside with stock Paris cone bushing roadside in the back, and I've got an 80a APS canon boardside with a stock Paris cone bushing roadside in the front. I tried some canons roadside too, but the initial setup felt a little stiff, so I've got those sotck Paris cones in until I figure it all out. At 225 lbs. it is very easy to wiggle it, but I've taken it on some mild hills to around 15-18 mph with no wobble. This is on the wider 8ply deck. Best longboard experience I've had. It's the lowest resistance push I've ever felt with 85mm wheels on it. Love it.
The note at 7:02 was majorly helpful. My previous setup definitely had the front wheels lifting first. I just rebuilt the board based on some of the recommendations. I put the back truck in the rear -17 degree position with a 43 degree Paris baseplate. I still have the 80a Canon in the front with the stock Paris cone roadside (90a I think) as I don't have any more super soft barrel bushings right now. To get the rear wheels lifting first on the 8ply deck, I had to use two 97.5a APS Canons in the rear. I tried a 97.5/95 Canon in the rear, but the front lifted first. I'm going to order some more 75a and 80a Canons, and maybe a front roadside cone, to experiment with softening the front as I'd like the rear a little looser too. That tip made it super easy to find a starting point.
@@funkingitup1805oh good! I'm glad. I wasn't sure how best to present it.
We want the rear to lift just a moment early because in a corner or hard drive more of your weight will be on the rear even when we try to keep it up front it often is rear heavy. But, again it's barely much of a difference.
I think it really works well to get people choosing close to appropriate bushings.
I tend to go soft up front 81a/77a and then I match the rear to that.
I was thinking of turning that note into its own short video.
@@PaulKentSkatesYes, please! Do a bushing deep dive!
Needed this video!
Please make a video like this for the bandito and the wigler... Better yet make one for all your boards😅😅😅
Nice & Thanks :)
Thanks for the great Video. How many Boards were harmed during the production of the Intro?
Hardest to understand for me is Truck Geometry. Let's see if I got that correctly:
- for a "slow" pumper it's better to dewedge the front truck down from 65° to...where?
- for a "pure" pushing board dewedge the Front even more?
- for a fast "race" board use the flipped truck inner position
- for a "turnier" board use the longer wheelbase and play with angles there, dewedge for more stability.
Thank you for asking for clarification. Points 2 to 4 are correct. For the first point,
We want to wedge the truck more, up to 65° for a more casual pumper. (Paired with a 20-30° rear you'll be able to tackle some mild climbs).
It wasn't clear but I typically use a 40° plate and would add 5° (+ 15° nose angle) to make it better suited for cruising around on the pathways. Now I have a 50 on the front and I've dewedged the 5° instead to get the 60° that I find ideal for my general use, while still being fairly quick for pumping. You can extract more speed from your effort when set around 55° but it requires more effort. I'll add this to the description.
In a fast race I'd go around 55° in front, and chill rides being able to pump as much as possible 65°
Sorry my editing brain didn't realize how confusing that was until I had posted.
@@PaulKentSkates
Thanks for the clarification, that's the Info I needed
Love the video. Very useful and I was thinking of getting another brand but this changed my mind. Paul, what trucks and bushings are you using for your "favorite" setup with the Hokus? Are the bushings just stock from the pantheon website? And you're doing Bear 130mm 40/50 trucks?
I (Paul) weight around 180 lbs
I've got the hokus set up with a bear 130 truck wedged to 45° on the nose. (60° total)
Boardside I'm using 81a blue and roadside 77a yellow siesmic bushings.
At the time I was running a 40° BASEPLATE ON the 0° mount, but I typically prefer the -17° tail.
Bushings on the 0° tail are Riptide Krank, Grey 96a boardside and Wine 93a roadside.
I also have one setup with Aera K6 trucks the front is 60° with the same bushings
And the rear has a 30° plate -3° wedge and the -17° tail (10° total) with green riptide Krank bushings.
Can you elaborate on how to tune the front truck to effect a faster or slower pump cadence?
Higher angle is going to get you into your turn quicker (needs to be compensated with softer bushings to balance the leverage) so will result in a higher cadence. Lower angle will require more change of lean to get to that same depth of turn = lower cadence. I like to call this wavelength. Higher angle will likely result in a shorter wavelength. Or a pointier shape to your wave at least. And a lower angle will have a more round shaped wave.
I came here because i FUCKED UP MY BACK TRUCK POTITION AGAIN!!
What is the difference between medium and tall seismic bushings and wich schould i get for my paris v3 truck on supersonic and how much do I tighten the nut do you have it in newton meter ?
Tall bushings are too tall for Paris trucks, they are for select downhill trucks such as rogues gold slaloms and Ronins. . The regular .6" is standard, and probably the safest recommendation. If you are running small wheels and wanted more depth of lean maybe smoother action but a higher risk of wheel bite you could try the medium .65" bushing with no boardside washer.
I don't have torque specs and honestly it would vary depending on the type of bushing durometers you select and even the type of nylock nut you use.
The base level of tightness for bushings is tight enough that you can no longer twist the roadside bushings with your hands. Even with a very hard grip. I will refer to this as being "snug". After that some manufacturers recommend a half turn beyond that.
Higher rebound formulas you can turn a little past not if you wish.
If you're running something like a Krank formula Riptide bushing you can go from just snug up to two full turns past snug if you want to tune it to feel more tight.
Personally I'll typically turn my rear downhill bushings one full turn past snug. For my rear bushing for pumping I might give it a half turn extra, but the front I keep fairly loose, maybe a quarter turn extra for siesmic bushings. And you can tune it a bit further with Krank as described.
Don’t know whether I should go for the 155mm or 130mm bear trucks. Is there much difference in how agile the board is ? Also will standard Venom bushings be alright
Yes venom bushings are great. They aren't as wide as the others but they will work just like venom bushings regularly do.
For the supersonic I'd go with 130 unless you are using the wider heavy flex, or if you will be riding it down hills. 130 will be quicker to initiate turns so narrower is typically preferred for pumping.
I have a question about the resulting angle of the rear truck
in the setups(either 17deg or -40deg positions) a 'positive' net rear angle is when the bolt of the kingpin is further rearward than the head of the kingpin, right? and this is much more desirable than having the bolt more forward(close to the middle of the board)?
Sorry it took me a few reads before I understood what you were asking.
Yes, if the nut is more rearward than the head of the bolt the rear truck will turn in the opposite direction of the front and will aid in rotating the board in the same direction as the front truck.
If it were reversed, the rear would angle in the same direction as the front in the board would sidestep more and more as it approaches the same steering angles as the front.
Sorry I feel what I just wrote will be more confusing to most people without having a model to demonstrate.
@@PaulKentSkates haha yeah it was hard for me to word what i was thinking. but yeah your explanation makes sense. the board would almost be crabwalking instead of rotating around the turning point. thanks for taking the time with my question
I see a lot of ppl actually set their boards up like the ways in the intro and ride it like it's the best thing in the world... They scare me
Especially that upside down setup 🫣
Thanks for the video Paul. I'm after a push mainly setup with Paris RKP 50s. I've just got them front and back. So that gives me 65 front and 33 back. Definitely having that wheel issue where the front is far off the ground before the back starts to lift. Recommendations?
I would consider dewedging the front. I'd start with a 10° wedge and see how it feels. It will make your bushings feel softer in the front due to improved leverage on the bushing. For a push specific set-up, I find when the front is over 55° the debris on the road has more leverage over your trucks than you do. 50 would be better. If you can find wedged risers I would give them a try. 10-15°
I'd keep the rear where it is.
If your front wheels still lift I would choose your front bushings by feel, and then increased hardness of the rear bushings to match the front so both front and back lift at the same time (or the rear can lift a few mm before the front)
There is another comment where someone asks about a push specific set-up where I discuss this also. Take a look for it.
Excellent, thank you Paul. Shopping time!
This was amazing, thank you Paul, can’t wait to see what y’all put out next!
FYI, your TH-cam channel has the wrong url for your website.
Thank you very much for the heads up! we fixed it.
When will the T shirt be for sale?? Cash waiting!
Hi, if I mount both Bear trucks 40 degrees front and rear, for the rear do I need to flip my truck?
If you have it in the middle mount (the 0° one) then yes, the pivot should point forward and the axle behind it. But, If you are mounting it on the outer-most tail mount (-17°), then you put it on normally with the axle towards the center of the board and the pivot pointing rearwards.
Hopefully this helps?
Second
First!
@@PaulKentSkates damn you got me
😂😂😂😂
seems like a lot of set up and headache for something that can't even turn or pivot. just get a regular skateboard so much better
It turns better than my street board. (We have those too, And they are an endless headache in certain situations). I'm a believer in using the right board for the job.