I have never ever seen an authentic realistic weathering on a model car until now. Superb workmanship having seen cars after races this looks just right.
Great description of the track "weathering" process... quite a bit more involved than my rally 'weathering'. Great result and everything looks right and in scale. Tells the story by itself and doesn't even need to be in a diorama.
First time watcher - excellent job on the model and the video editing - I really enjoyed seeing the build while you explained the decisions, but kept up the pace. The scale of the model surprised me at the end - so small! You did an excellent job adding detail to where the model was lacking - the tire shavings were a super-neat weathering trick!
What timing to have this video come out! I've just about finished the same process on my car. I haven't gone so dedicated on the realism side, just built mine for fun. I've Done a very similar job to you, a few colours here or there being different, availability and all, but a couple of things I did was do a very, veeeeery light brown wash on the body, and dropped a couple of colours in, as watercolour painters do, it gives a very nice effect of a mid-race washed car. For the rubber effect, I saved the rubber and did that, but I also used an extremely small detail brush ( 10/0) Daler Rowney brand, and used XF-1 and X-18 straight from the pot, lightly dabbed on the body or other things. I've gives just another texture to "rubber", which has been more melted, or still a bit warmer than older rubber. Using a wash around the vents, mixed with XF-23 and XF-63, XF-10 then dry brushing the same colours back adds some nice detail, as long as it isn't too far. I fully agree that the front brake air vents, and the fuel fillers were far from great though. Overall, great kit, small things aside, great fun and great video!
@@wixy500 Maybe! Although I do like the randomness a paint brush gives, especially when you "flick" the paint on with with old credot card or something. But I do like the texture a paint brush gives you
That was informative, interesting, and inspiring. After watching a second time,I went on line and ordered exact model. I plan to build with door open like you mentioned although it's a big challenge for my skill level. Thank you.
Great to hear - sorry to have cost you money! lol. Hopefully you got the re-issue that has the metal photo etch? If you're going to have the door open, get your hinge made, aligned and fixed in place before you cut the door out. I've yet to do it myself, but have read its far better doing it in that order than cutting the door off first and then trying to re-align everything to make a hinge. Of course, you could just make so that the door is removable to show off the interior. Good luck!
That Zero stuff is super hot mate, just apply with mist coats and do not use it wet like you would tamiya LP. The reason those lines came back was that the hot zero laquer was re-softening the filler and when it went hard again it shrunk back smaller than how is was originally. -james.
Fantastic build and video, learned a lot which I'm going to try. Mind if I ask what thinner you mix into the Tamiya X-19 smoke and what ratio? Whenever I try to spray Tamiya clear paints, it's either too thick, or it has the consistency of water and runs everywhere. Many thanks.
I use Tamiya's lacquer thinner (87077). Couldn't tell you an actual ratio, I just add a few drops of thinner to a few drops of paint so it's not quite as thick but will spray through the airbrush ok. Because it's so translucent it's easy to try and put it on too quick - build up the discoloration slowly.
That's covered in the video mate, watch at 13:19 and 17:40 (it's also covered on the blog about the build, using the same pics - www.wixy500.com/build-diary-1989-sauber-mercedes-c9/)
Thank you do much for this video. I have the same original release and hope to start building it in a month or so. You mentioned trouble with the Zero paints - is there another brand that might be less aggressive?
I am unsure of the type of ignition on this car, but the plug leads connect into ignition units at the back of the engine. It might be easier to see in the photos on the blog of the build? >> www.wixy500.com/build-diary-1989-sauber-mercedes-c9/
i cut the doors open and cut the front cowl off so i had to add all kinds of details to the front of the car. Also have issues with zero paint, and the crinkle coat happened to me too. i stripped the paint but those damn bacterium persisted. Thats what the body looked like, millions of germs in a petri dish. Shit i have three dozen colors in zero for all manner of cars how do we prevent this?
I used left-overs of the same paint on my Buddy Baker NASCAR build, but applied thinner coats over several sessions and didn't have an issue on that one. But the Zero can be very frustrating!
This type of modeling are NOTHING without putting it into corresponding diorama...Otherwise it looks weird. The weathering itself looks overdone and some places off scale
A diorama would set this off nicely, but I'm only interested in building the race car, not the scenery. Yes, it's far from a perfect build, but I'm happy with it :) Cheers and take care.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
The weathering is totally legit, excellent effects!
Thanks!
Sometimes, the youtube algorythm throws you a gem. I have no interest in scale model builds, but I watched this to the end.
Hahahaha! Maybe TH-cam is telling you to go to your local hobby store and buy a kit to build?? 😲 Glad you enjoyed it 👍
You should buy a kit nice way to spend time in the winter. I go to my bench at 9am and before i know it , its 3 oclock
I have never ever seen an authentic realistic weathering on a model car until now. Superb workmanship having seen cars after races this looks just right.
Thank you, glad you liked it. I think sometimes people over-weather their models and make them too dirty to be realistic.
love those rubber worms on the tyres. Great result in general!
Thanks 👍
Great description of the track "weathering" process... quite a bit more involved than my rally 'weathering'. Great result and everything looks right and in scale. Tells the story by itself and doesn't even need to be in a diorama.
Thanks Graham :) I might just have to try a rally car - some day...
First time watcher - excellent job on the model and the video editing - I really enjoyed seeing the build while you explained the decisions, but kept up the pace. The scale of the model surprised me at the end - so small! You did an excellent job adding detail to where the model was lacking - the tire shavings were a super-neat weathering trick!
Welcome to the channel - and thanks 👍
What timing to have this video come out! I've just about finished the same process on my car. I haven't gone so dedicated on the realism side, just built mine for fun. I've Done a very similar job to you, a few colours here or there being different, availability and all, but a couple of things I did was do a very, veeeeery light brown wash on the body, and dropped a couple of colours in, as watercolour painters do, it gives a very nice effect of a mid-race washed car.
For the rubber effect, I saved the rubber and did that, but I also used an extremely small detail brush ( 10/0) Daler Rowney brand, and used XF-1 and X-18 straight from the pot, lightly dabbed on the body or other things. I've gives just another texture to "rubber", which has been more melted, or still a bit warmer than older rubber. Using a wash around the vents, mixed with XF-23 and XF-63, XF-10 then dry brushing the same colours back adds some nice detail, as long as it isn't too far.
I fully agree that the front brake air vents, and the fuel fillers were far from great though. Overall, great kit, small things aside, great fun and great video!
Thanks Kieran. You know, going back to basics and using a really fine detail brush might be a better solution than the toothbrush I used! Cheers.
@@wixy500 Maybe! Although I do like the randomness a paint brush gives, especially when you "flick" the paint on with with old credot card or something. But I do like the texture a paint brush gives you
Lovely clean job Im way more slopy still with my painting and weathering
and that idea with the rubber dust awesome now I'll be packing everything from sanding tires in to bags :)
I’ve never done a weathered model either so for what you’ve done in your first attempt looks bloody good.
Thanks :) It might have been beginner's luck?
That was informative, interesting, and inspiring. After watching a second time,I went on line and ordered exact model. I plan to build with door open like you mentioned although it's a big challenge for my skill level. Thank you.
Great to hear - sorry to have cost you money! lol. Hopefully you got the re-issue that has the metal photo etch?
If you're going to have the door open, get your hinge made, aligned and fixed in place before you cut the door out. I've yet to do it myself, but have read its far better doing it in that order than cutting the door off first and then trying to re-align everything to make a hinge. Of course, you could just make so that the door is removable to show off the interior. Good luck!
@wixy500 , thanks for the tip, I wouldn't of thought of that sequence. I'm thinking of using sunglasses hinges.
That Zero stuff is super hot mate, just apply with mist coats and do not use it wet like you would tamiya LP. The reason those lines came back was that the hot zero laquer was re-softening the filler and when it went hard again it shrunk back smaller than how is was originally. -james.
Yep! Thanks for the explanation. I had been warned prior about that and still over did it lol.
Excellent job 👌👌
Thank you! Cheers!
Pakemham!! I grew up in pakemham!!
Cool :) Where are you now?
@wixy500 ferntreegully. Where with rc tracks around me and model shops.. sweet
Fantastic build and video, learned a lot which I'm going to try.
Mind if I ask what thinner you mix into the Tamiya X-19 smoke and what ratio?
Whenever I try to spray Tamiya clear paints, it's either too thick, or it has the consistency of water and runs everywhere.
Many thanks.
I use Tamiya's lacquer thinner (87077). Couldn't tell you an actual ratio, I just add a few drops of thinner to a few drops of paint so it's not quite as thick but will spray through the airbrush ok. Because it's so translucent it's easy to try and put it on too quick - build up the discoloration slowly.
Hi, very nice video! Could you write (here in comments section) step by step, the working procedure that you use with the tires? thank you!
That's covered in the video mate, watch at 13:19 and 17:40 (it's also covered on the blog about the build, using the same pics - www.wixy500.com/build-diary-1989-sauber-mercedes-c9/)
Thank you do much for this video. I have the same original release and hope to start building it in a month or so. You mentioned trouble with the Zero paints - is there another brand that might be less aggressive?
Hi Bob. I'd just go with the Tamiya gloss aluminium colour the instructions call for.
Where do the plug wires go or where is the electronic distributor or indeed the distributor? Cheers thanks😊
I am unsure of the type of ignition on this car, but the plug leads connect into ignition units at the back of the engine. It might be easier to see in the photos on the blog of the build? >> www.wixy500.com/build-diary-1989-sauber-mercedes-c9/
i cut the doors open and cut the front cowl off so i had to add all kinds of details to the front of the car.
Also have issues with zero paint, and the crinkle coat happened to me too.
i stripped the paint but those damn bacterium persisted.
Thats what the body looked like, millions of germs in a petri dish.
Shit i have three dozen colors in zero for all manner of cars how do we prevent this?
I used left-overs of the same paint on my Buddy Baker NASCAR build, but applied thinner coats over several sessions and didn't have an issue on that one. But the Zero can be very frustrating!
This type of modeling are NOTHING without putting it into corresponding diorama...Otherwise it looks weird. The weathering itself looks overdone and some places off scale
A diorama would set this off nicely, but I'm only interested in building the race car, not the scenery. Yes, it's far from a perfect build, but I'm happy with it :)
Cheers and take care.