How to Build a Ford 302 Small Block - Part 6: Cylinder Heads and Oil System
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- Today I show you exactly how to replace the cylinder heads and oiling system for a Ford 302 Windsor small block V8. This is a crucial step in engine assembly, if it isn't done properly you risk serious engine damage. It isn't difficult and is a lot of fun, you just need to be careful. Follow along you you will do great! Thanks so much for watching!
Oil Pump: www.summitraci...
Oil Pump and Pick Up Bolts: www.summitraci...
Oil Pick Up Tube: www.summitraci...
Oil Pump Driveshaft: www.summitraci...
Bronco Oil Pan: www.summitraci...
Oil Pan Bolt Kit: www.summitraci...
Oil Pan Gasket: www.summitraci...
Cylinder Heads: www.summitraci...
Cylinder Head Bolts: www.summitraci...
Performance Head Gasket x2: www.summitraci...
Oil Pressure Gauge Sending Unit: www.summitraci...
Oil Pressure Sender Extension: www.summitraci...
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*Disclaimer: Please use all safety precautions
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I just wanted to thank you for the detailed videos. They have been my go to guide for rebuilding my 302. I owe you
Glad I found your channel. Your videos are the absolute best at explaining everything in detail. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
You're right about using afr bolts and fel-pro gaskets. They are the best. However, my heads are the eldebrock rpm performer. I'm very partial about using eldebrock parts. I put on a 650 cfm carbuator and the air gap intake. I also use Summit!
My 302 head bolts have the integrated washer head. My specs were different than 70 ft lbs as seen here:TORQUE-TO-YIELD BOLTS WITH INTEGRATED WASHER
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS:
Following sequence shown in illustration torque all bolts/studs in
the following steps:
Torque all bolts to 25-35 ft. lbs. (34-47 Nm.).
Torque all bolts to 45-55 ft. lbs. (61-75 Nm.).
Finally, tighten all bolts and studs an additional 1/4 turn (85-95°).
Torque all intake manifold bolts to 23-25 ft. lbs. (31-34 Nm.).
STANDARD BOLTS WITHOUT INTEGRATED WASHER
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS:
The following torque specifications for the cylinder head and the
intake manifold must be followed. Failure to do so can lead to
excessive cylinder head “lift”, resulting in combustion gas and
coolant leakage. Although these specifications may differ from
those previously issued by Ford Motor Company, they are the
result of extensive research and testing.
Following sequence shown in illustration torque all bolts in the
following steps:
Torque intake side (long, odd numbered bolts) to 80 ft. lbs.
(109 Nm.).
Torque exhaust side (short, even numbered bolts) to 70 ft.
lbs. (95 Nm.).
Torque all intake manifold bolts to 23-25 ft. lbs. (31-34 Nm.)
Interesting, I didn't know TTY bolts for this engine were even an option. Thanks for watching!
New drinking game ..drink everytime he says "BAD BOY" warning alcohol poisoning may occur.Great videos currently using for a similar build.
LOL! I don't advise that. You'd end up passed out at the keyboard. I do say it a lot. But in my defense these videos are shot over multiple day and I forget what I say exactly so my default lexicon shines through. Thanks for watching!
can i have that engine for my truck mine i think has a spun crank bearing 302 1968 mustang in a 1962 stepsidw f100 pickup
On a scale of 1 to 10, what skill level is required to do this job.
1. Super easy, grandma could do it.
5. A smart guy with little experience that can follow instructions could do it.
7. A semi experienced professional required for a good build
9. Best left to a professional
Assume that grandma and up are willing to buy all tools required.
great video you've made me want to do mine
Watched the whole series so far and its been great, I have a 302 I want to build up, what was the total budget spent on this build?
Nice! You should do it! I think total we are at 5k even with our 1800 dollar heads. Thanks for watching Andrew!
Redoing a 95 F150 302/5.0L suggestions on EGR bypass/Block-off? Suggestions on modified air intake? Lastly, what torque wrench models are you using? Thanks!
Looks like you need to clearance the oil pump for the crank.
Nope. Thanks for watching.
U didn’t show installation of rotating assembly on strokes
he did in part 4.
It's very interesting to see the old 302 vs the Modular motors of Ford. The little things like the oil pump mounting, design, and even that gasket (vs an O ring for the Modular)... Keep up these videos, Ryan!
/You didn't RTV the oil pump gasket! XD
I'm guessing that's because if it does leak its going straight into the oil pan.
@@madrabbit9007 I was pokin' fun, because he generally RTV's just about every gasket just a smidge. :)
@@mikeybhoutex 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thanks so much for watching!
You got me! lol 🤣
Skipped 3rd pan bolt to the balancer
3rd one back on both sides. I thought I was the only one who noticed
Lmao I thought I was tripping
Why would you NOT install all bolts in the respective holes….then run down both ends bolts? Then come back and run down the smaller bolts and finish it with torque. I’ve never ever seen an oil pan installed this way. Putting in the smaller bolts with just a few threads prevent the gasket and pan/block holes not aligning.
It seems to me the only part you used from the engine was the block. Everything was replaced with performances parts.
The pan aligned perfectly because I put the corners in first. You don't have to do it the way I did I just like doing it that way. Always works and never leaks. Thanks for watching!
You missed an oil pan bolt
There is a hole in the pan but no threads on the block. Thanks for watching!
I really enjoyed watching this vid, so clear, very well explained by the presenter. Thank you :-)
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!
Great looking build and a main girdle would be a great addition to help give strength to the mains/bottom end and crank.-
Thank you! Yeah true!
Really wanted to watch this yesterday when you published it but had too much SEC football to watch. Keep up the good work.
That's fair! Thanks for watching!
You mention that the parts are listed in the description below. I have looked everywhere and I do not see "description" at all. Is there a complete list that I can go to? Thanks
Click on where it says "more" they changed the name of it recently. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I’m looking to rebuild a 1987 302 from the ground up with all new parts. Do these AFR heads work with my application regardless if I use factory piston size and not stroked?
Yep they sure will. Thanks for watching!
You don't want to use these heads on a Foxbody 302 with stock pistons an stroke. You'll lose over 1 point of compression. He'd be better off with the 58cc heads. Stock heads are 60 to a little over 61cc. Plus since this is a 347 your raising the compression ratio because of the stroke.
I’ve seen before when water is applied to that area of the valve… air was applied to see if air bubbles were observed.
Okay either way. Thanks for watching!
you make it look easy....is it?
It is! I promise! It is so fun too! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros appreciate that you wouldn't happen to have a parts list for that build I will be doing the top end of my 302
I didn’t saw the installation of the oil pan rails? Or it is not necessary?
Thanks
Don't really need them IMO not to mention our gasket has a steel core. Thanks for watching!
Curious why you selected RTV on the head bolts that go into the water jacket. ARP makes a thread sealer for this purpose. Do you find the RTV is better?
I like using RTV. It's much cheaper and works great. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros thanks for the video, it's perfectly detailed!
Great video. It brings back information that I forgot over the years.
Glad it was helpful!
I’m really curious about how much power this will make
I'd love to see like 370! Thanks for watching!
What silicone do you use?
I just use black rtv but permatex 82180 if you’re looking for specifics. Thanks for watching!
Nice job! Love it.
Great job man
Thanks for watching Lee!
You mentioned a windage tray at the end, you have a part number? I'm building a 347 from a 302 in a 69 Bronco, stock oil pan. Thanks!
We didn't use one. If I think it needs one in the future I can add it pretty easily. If you need help picking one try calling Summit Racing's help line, they have picked great parts for me countless times. Thanks for watching!
Hey Ryan sorry i know this isnt completely related but i have a 2004 F150. It was running fine but when i turned it off it wont turn back on. Ive changed the fuel module, alternator, and battery. I cant get it to crank or anything. If i keep it on a battery charger it reads about 13v but as soon as i unhook it the battery starts draining rapidly down unless i take ff one of the terminals then itll stop draining. Any ideas where to go from here. Thanks. Wanted to add when i turn the car to the on position i can remove the key easily and the red dot on the dash (security light) flashed red rapidly or not at all.
That is a complicated question, if you go to our website www.2carpros.com and ask a question for free, an expert will be along shortly to help! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros awesome thanks for the reponse and no problem man you seem like you have a genuine passion for this! Ended up watching previous episodes too probably will never have to build this but its cool to know! Makes the engine seem less intimidating