Mugo Pine Bonsai Preparation Part III 13 month later
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2024
- Watch Part 1 at • Mugo Pine Bonsai Prepa...
Watch part 2 at • Mugo Pine Bonsai Prepa...
Part 3:One of the few unsuccessful stories that I have to tell, this is the reality after all. See how I struggle to try to keep this plant alive. Mugo plant was repotted last year, with light trimming of the folliage on top, and of the roots. I am suspecting in-adequate watering, what do yout think?? If It can survive until the repot (scheduled this September), I will use a soil mix that has only 20% organic material. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
This was a GREAT collection of videos! I just got my first mugo pine from a nursery which I plan on using as a learning tree. This collection of videos was super helpful for me!
For what is worth 8 years later, that tree died because it was heavily trimmed and reported at the same time.
For those interested in mugs and any other kind of pine: If you trim you wait for a whole year to re-pot, and viceversa. Or you can re-pot first and then wait again for trimming.
This does not apply to trimming candles.
A lot of the new shoots that tried to push growth perished because the conditions that caused the problem has not changed. I would consider waiting till the middle of summer and gently repot into a soil mix that is more pours and allows the water to run through.
Don't use perlite, It's to light. The chicken grit will help with drainage & it is very heavy, It adds weight to hold the tree in place. The turface comes in two forms, powder (they use it to dry baseball fields) & little grains. This is the one you want, It looks like kitty litter. It is clay & it helps hold water but it does dry out fast. Both can be found at any farm store.
I grow a lot of Mugo Pine bonsai and I see things like this happen all of the time. I think your problem is in your soil mix. It is true that Mugos do not like to be kept wet but they do like to be watered all the time to keep the soil aerated. I hope you do not mind my comments.
yeeees
Vance Wood does it need more gravel?
Every day I read more people who think that in the only substratum that can be grown a bonsai is akadama ... there are many more times that the tree dies from our negligence than by the "fault" of the organic substrate.
I am sorry to say that the Bonsai Student passed just shortly after this video was made. His last video was a collage of his 2012 Bonsai.
what? I thought this was trolling until I saw the other comments, what happened? he was young right? Condolences :0 (
His family never said what happened. They only said he had passed. It is sad until you realize he is somewhere with Bob Ross still making "happy trees"
Thats too sad😭😭😭
I am so sorry to hear this. Love these videos.
So glad it came back and prevailed :)
I really hope he makes it!! I think that the trunk that is dying will eventually make the tree more interesting, the dead wood will give allot of character :)
Thanks for your reply. I will repot it in Spring. I did a bit of pruning for now. The reason why I wanted to repot was because its pot bound still in nursery container. I will see if I post a video response for you guys to see. It has pretty good potential.
nice update and well done so far. these trees are difficult to say the least! if you have seen changes during watering it might be too much fungus on the roots that is rotting them as well as a tight root ball.
Best have a look. you can clear off all the fungus that you can see. don't worry about it. the fungus is in the root ball already and will remain and grow with the roots. if you can keep them wet when you expose them that is better. its a symbiosis. it is like when we get a stomach upset when the bacteria overgrow. it
is impossible to remove all the fungus without chemicals and cutting off the resepticals on the roots that hold the fungus. the spores are tiny and there will always be enough fungus to grow back. as you said you can add some of the soil back in to ensure the fungus is present but really only need a little bit. As the plant grows the fungus will grow. like with us, if conditions in our gut change then the bacteria can over grow and make us sick. the same might be happening here. It sounds like a combination of the repot, sun and water.
these trees will do well in shade for a few months after repot and won't need as much water there either. rain can be an issue of course, but well drained soil and a pot above ground level like I think you had maybe the answer depending on your weather there :0)
if you used fertiliser too with a lot of sun and dry periods, this can speed the process up. like one day the tree looks fine, the next day it is yellow! this burn won't happen if there is less sun and free draining soil that is kept flushed, wait for the first inch to become relatively dry then flush with water again.
I'm sure you know all this but i included it for completion purposes. worth bearing in mind the fungus thing :)
Conifer bonsai prefer less soil and more aggregate. In 100% aggregate they thrive because its impossible to overwater. Only drawback is you have to keep up with your watering, but hey, if you want a good looking bonsai there are sacrifices. Try EasternLeaf conifer mix. Akadama and lava rock.
The main thing with any pine bonsai, is to balance the energy, when you do any work on these trees, you must make sure the strength is behind it. Mugo are a single flush pine, so the work you do on them has to be prepared! Reporting should be done when the buds are starting to burst, but you must fertilize with liquid for approx 3 months before repotting? I hope you have better results soon? Good luck!!
No, I use it for everything. I do a lot of indoor bonsai. Seems to work good in all plants.
Hello. Great progress video. Have you ever looked up Vance Wood? He is kind of the Mugho king. He is very helpful and had written many great articles. One thing he suggests is planting in a colander or screen box after the root work. This creates an amazing amount of fine feeder roots. Then you wait 3 years and then redo the root work. I would definitely change your soil up. I would do 30% pine bark (1/4-1/2 inch pieces) with the other 70% consisting of Diatomaceous earth with a little ground g
so sad to see, I have watched all your videos and I can see how much care and attention you give them lol bet your wife must be jelous of the trees at times. I will wait with great anticipation for the next update ! keep up the good work. Oh and thank you for the soil updates on the coton easter:) I see every time you repot a tree you add the soil segment in. thank you for that.
I remember you saying that you were having a tough time with this plant but I'm glad to see it is improving. I have to say I would guess there was a waterlogging/overwatering issue inside the old root ball as I have seen similar problems with overwatered junipers. Saying that i would imagine it is difficult to overwater in sunny California?! The surest way to tell may be to repot in an inorganic mix and water only when dry? Keep up the good work!
As I said, Always stay with 1/3, 1/3 & 1/3 For everything. Still must water in the winter, Not often but they still need it. You could do the pine now but I'd wait till spring, Giving it a better chance. Also saving the pot from possible cracking.
Nice video's, i've done the same routine with a mugho pine this summer, i use a special type of kitty litter which has more or less the same features as akadama, but much cheaper (rinced thoroughly though) and added small gravel (1-2 mm) so good drainage. Together with a not too cleaned out rootball, it seems to be going strong. Done some wiring and heavy pruning late summer. I hope it cruises through winter. My guess for the mugho is the soil mixture in combination with too much watering.
No sunshine inside 👋🌳
I think it's your soil mix, To heavy. You need 1/3 soil, 1/3 turface & 1/3 chicken grit. This is all I used for 20 years. Works fine
I would guess that it did not have soil that could drain well enough and you had root rot from the roots staying wet for to long. You really should have teased the roots out more and gotten most of the original soil out. Hope the tree recovered for you.
Thanks for you reply Ziggy!
I lost 3 mature dwarf mugo pines planted in the ground as landscaping last year due to high heat and not enough water.
Also after pruning branches and roots, this is traumatic. Should be left in 80% shade for one or two weeks.
I saw on Gram Potter's channel that you should not work with conifers in the summer cause the sap will bleed out. Perhaps that's what happened when you started snipping branches. Mugos are pretty tenacious. Glad it bounced back for you :) Mugos also desire a loser well draining substrate as I see a few viewers have already noted. Im still new to bonsai and working with new mixes for my pre bonsai and first stage trees.
Sorry, this might sound like a stupid question, but how do you calculate your soil mixes? Whats a general rule of thumb when doing a mix? I'm a complete novice and I just purchased a Mugo Pine from Home Cheapo and would also like to know weather to leave it alone being that summer just ended or can I at least get this little guy going by putting it in a different pot with a good mix until spring. Thanks for your response!
What happened to your Mugo Pine???
Could the soil mix be retaining too much water? Looks like a root rot problem.
Did you try misting your Mugo on a daily/regular basis rather than watering with a can/hose?
Hope the tree recovered!
I work at an interior landscaping company with bonsai as a hobby
I just won a Mugo Pine and am not sure how to take care of it. Should it stay outside all winter (even in snow) like a Juniper? How much light should it get?
gardener told me
you show use as much sand as you could...
Them dead needles in the pot don’t help either
It's been a year now, how is the pine doing now?
zamrzol ti ,,,,??coo??
Root rot
Too wet
No Good status of Pine.
nice update and well done so far. these trees are difficult to say the least! if you have seen changes during watering it might be too much fungus on the roots that is rotting them as well as a tight root ball.
Best have a look. you can clear off all the fungus that you can see. don't worry about it. the fungus is in the root ball already and will remain and grow with the roots. if you can keep them wet when you expose them that is better. its a symbiosis. it is like when we get a stomach upset when the bacteria overgrow. it
is impossible to remove all the fungus without chemicals and cutting off the resepticals on the roots that hold the fungus. the spores are tiny and there will always be enough fungus to grow back. as you said you can add some of the soil back in to ensure the fungus is present but really only need a little bit. As the plant grows the fungus will grow. like with us, if conditions in our gut change then the bacteria can over grow and make us sick. the same might be happening here. It sounds like a combination of the repot, sun and water.
these trees will do well in shade for a few months after repot and won't need as much water there either. rain can be an issue of course, but well drained soil and a pot above ground level like I think you had maybe the answer depending on your weather there :0)
if you used fertiliser too with a lot of sun and dry periods, this can speed the process up. like one day the tree looks fine, the next day it is yellow! this burn won't happen if there is less sun and free draining soil that is kept flushed, wait for the first inch to become relatively dry then flush with water again.
I'm sure you know all this but i included it for completion purposes. worth bearing in mind the fungus thing :)