Tractor Fuel Taps, What is the Story There?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video I strip a few fuel taps and evaluate them
Hello, I'm Lance (aka Bundy Bear), and doing these videos is my hobby. I do own Queensland Tractor Spares in Australia where I sell parts and offer technical advice to customers.
Parts seen in our videos can be purchased from www.queenslandtractorspares.co...
We have a lot more than we can offer on our website available to us and in our store. If you don't see what you would like please email info@queenslandtractorspares.com.au or call 1300 850 097 and we will help where we can.
I do try and help with technical advice at bundybearsshed@gmail.com if you have a question or are having trouble with your project.
#bundybearsshed, #tractorrestoration, #tractorrepair, #tractorvideos #crcindustriesau - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Thanks Lance. You are a Mechanical Detective. I love the way you research and look into problems.
Thankyou.
G Day Lance, many thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge, I think I would prefer the metal insert for the reason you pointed out about the plastic ones, also do you think the new ones are victims of accountancy engineering.
many thanks
Barry
Yeah bean counters have had an influence here Im sure.
Good work Lance. "Built to price" is a problem in a lot of areas.
Yes sadly but most wont buy the mor expensive and better-quality products.
Excellent video Lance!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I put a magnet in the glass bowl gets all the ultra fine rust.
I had not thought to do that, good idea.
I have never touched the tap on my 165, if you don't tough it you shouldn't have any problems.
If it does leak just check the o ring first up, easy to do.
Excellent analysis. Sad reflection on modern offshored manufacturing quality control
Yeah they could do it better that is for sure.
Lance, one thing you didn't mention in the video is lubrication on the oring. Even if that machined surface was perfect you still need some form of lubricant (grease) on the oring, and since the oring is exposed to fuel (dissolves the grease) it's probably something that needs to be lubricated fairly regularly so that your oring doesn't dry out and doesn't abrade on the surface. Even if it is a smooth surface the oring will break down over time and wear out. So you can replace the old ring frequently or lubricate it frequently to make it last longer.
They all do come dry from new but a little lube certainly wouldnt go astray.
Hi Lance, how ya doing? A while ago you very kindly helped me with some great advice...I wonder if you can do it again? My little fergie has an issue withe the hydraulics. Draft works fine but the arms won't lift a small topper , struggling badly , lifts fine without an implement on. I'm just wondering if I need a pump rebuild?
The tractors are at an age where they do often need a pump rebuild or the top cover worked on. The lift piston o rings may be worn as well. They can leak pressure oil under the lift cover where the cylinder bolts on, on the lift cover gasket and also on the pump mounting gasket. The relief valve may be weak as well. A few dollars on a rebuild may be money well spent.
@@BundyBearsShed thanks Lance.
Appreciate you taking time to reply. Be lucky
Hey guys I got a dumb question. Just got into repairing tractors and I want to take the crank pulley off. I was wondering if I have to disassemble the front wheel supports? Or can it be done with everything intact. ( for more context, I removed the hood, gas tank, radiator, fan and belt. Any help would be much appreciated!
I think it should come forward and clear ok
@BundyBearsShed Thank you! I got it off last night. I'm somewhat new to working on these old tractors. I'm working on a 53' to30 now. Thank you for your videos, they are really helpful!
@@BundyBearsShed hey one more question. Do you have a video explaining the best way to prime the oil pump and engine after a pump rebuild?
@@drungeltunks3720 No not that I can recall.
Shouldn't happen if sparex ect did quality control on there products
Very True but even though we check a lot of parts a few do slip through.
So I've had issues with fuel bowls on my mf50. The old one leaked like crazy so I just replaced it with a ball valve. The ball valve never flowed fuel. No filter on the hose, it was air locked and I couldn't get it to work no mater what. So I did with a new fuel bowl and it works just fine. Why would that happen?
Not sure, I have not had that worry.
Bernoulli's principle in physics!!! If using just a fuel line the fluid accelerates toward the carburetor/diesel injection pump. but the liquid creates a lower pressure behind it and therefore the liquid wants to get sucked back to the tank. The fuel bowl is bigger compared to a hose and purging air back to the tank is less of a problem.
I wonder if people just throw a poorly made new tap away because it leaks straight out of the box, and buy another new one because it is not much money, and not worth the bother of pursuing. Thereby giving a false impression of the reliability to the makers. Not enough returns to justify bothering with improving the quality whereas actually all the duff ones are simply going in the bin.
Certainly a possibility, it is hard to get our suppliers to change things when we cant supply much evidence of a problem.
I've replaced the o ring on the tap from new because the new one in my opinion wasn't the correct size o ring from new on my 135
I have always thrown that silly in tank gause as far away as I can ,it makes no sense to get broken down with a full tank and to get fuel flowing the tap needs to be removed ,much easier to open the lift pump cap and remove the dirt there
Yeah fair enough reckoning.